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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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1797664 No.1797664 [Reply] [Original]

Stay inside, fly outside edition.

Previous thread >>1788147

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In /rcg/ we discuss anything & everything remote controlled - multirotors, fixed wing, cars, rovers, helis, boats, submarines, battlebots, lawnmowers, etc.

>How do I get started with racing drones?

https://oscarliang.com/mini-quad-racing-guide/

https://www.fpvknowitall.com/ultimate-fpv-shopping-list/

> How to build a racing drone (16 part video series from Joshua Bardwell)

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLwoDb7WF6c8mWARrcxtX_G6yytK7QFHID

>What about planes?

https://www.flitetest.com/

>What about aerial photography, is DIY viable?

Buy a DJI if what you actually want is to take good photos/videos, go DIY if what you actually want is a fun project.

>I want a dirt cheap drone to fly around my yard/garden

Syma X5C

>I want a dirt cheap drone to fly inside my house

Eachine E010/Hubsan X4

>What are some good YouTube channels for learning or fun?

Joshua Bardwell - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCX3eufnI7A2I7IkKHZn8KSQ
Painless360 - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCp1vASX-fg959vRc1xowqpw
Flite Test - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC9zTuyWffK9ckEz1216noAw
Peter Sripol - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7yF9tV4xWEMZkel7q8La_w
ArxangelRC - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCG_c0DGOOGHrEu3TO1Hl3AA
RagTheNutsOff - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCWP6vjgBw1y15xHAyTDyUTw
Albert Kim - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCnJyFn_66GMfAbz1AW9MqbQ/

>> No.1797999

nice

>> No.1798034
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1798034

>want to print new RC car, have plenty of electronics and various extra shocks and bearings and stuff
>Want to do something like 80s/90s cheapo/Tamiya buggy with solid rear axle and integrated motor/gearbox on trailing link and either trailing link or MacPherson or something front end, but tall like a lunchbox
>Cannot find any designs in between full on srs double wishbone 4WD or T bar and ultra simple one sheet rigid made for Arduino projects
Before I go design one from the ground up, anyone know of any similar designs?

>> No.1798121
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1798121

>>1798034
The Kyosho Outlaw Rampage is a motor-on-axle rear end with links, however the front is double wishbone. I’m not sure it fits your criteria very well but it’s the first thing that came to mind.

>> No.1798142
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1798142

>>1798121
While I was looking for 3D files to 3D print that is a cool ass design
Might rip it off

>> No.1798186

>>1797664
How has FPV evolved recently?
Haven't been looking at the hobby for a year at least.
Is KISS still crushing the rest in terms of competition? What about batteries? Is everyone flying 5S or 6S?
What about VTX/VRX? Who's the king? TBS, Fatshark? I heard DJI tried something in HD that's even better than ConnexProSight.

>> No.1798262

I just discovered 21700 liion batteries. For US$1.80 per, you get 4000mAh, real continuous discharge of 15-20 amp, peak discharge of 40amps, coming in around 62 grams. Making a 3S2P that should give me >30min of flight and about 15 miles (24km) distance travelled. Really thinking about upgrading to the L9R if this works out.

>> No.1798265

>>1798262
I mean $2.80 per

>> No.1798290
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1798290

I'm looking to build a drone that has the flight time of a DJI or similar, not intending it for acro or racing. Im a boomer and my reaction time isnt good enough anymore to fly so accurately. 15 minutes per battery is probably my sweet spot.

I have a tinyhawk and enjoy flying it around as a meditative experience. I'm looking to upgrade to something much higher def.

Any recommendations? Everywhere else I ask no one ever answers.

I dont really want to do fixed wing, It's not versatile enough.

>> No.1798366

>>1798262
>>1798265
Any 21700 you find for $2.80 is almost guaranteed to be complete garbage. Legit 21700 cells with those sort of specs, like the Samsung 40T, are $10+ each.

>>1798186
Kiss is very niche nowadays - now that Betaflight flies on par or better, while having more features & running on a much wider range of much cheaper hardware, there simply isn't any reason to pay the huge premiums for Kiss anymore.

6S is now pretty normal/mainstream for 5" & up.

For VTX people like TBS & Rush, or AKK for something cheaper. The DJI platform is amazing, but it's a big investment & has a higher cost per model, so it's not a very inviting prospect for people who already have a lot of analogue models.

>>1798290
A 6" or 7" build with a big enough battery will easily get you 10+ minutes of gentle flying. I broke the 10 minute mark with a really heavy 6" with a 2200mAh 4S with a GoPro, so a more modern & lighter setup running more efficient 6S components with an equally large or larger battery should have no problem pushing 15.

>> No.1798373
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1798373

>>1798366
Multiple people have done testing on picrel and found them to be good. Additionally, here is some detailed testing on them and they appear good: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60419
These are bottom of the bucket 21700 specs and aren't making extraordinary claims beyond the discharge rate, which is covered by many of the testers.

>> No.1798387

My cheap Chinese motors just fucked up and fried my ESC. Think there must be a short somewhere in the motor, it just jitters back and forth

>> No.1798488
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1798488

>>1798142
Personally I think the MOA setup on a go-fast car is less than ideal, but it’s got its advantages.

>> No.1798490

>>1798488
Damn phone.

>> No.1798717
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1798717

>>1798488
I'm wanting to go that route since it seems to be the simplest and I want something I can print relatively quickly with as few parts as possible (but still have some suspension).
I really just want something to dick around in the living room and mess with my toddler, (maybe even print some seats/cargo for his toys) this is my only other working RC car rn which isn't so carpet friendly. I guess I could lift it and everything but I freak out about him touching it and breaking it. It just feels too nice for this kind of thing.

>> No.1798738

New to diy drones, what place has the biggest amount of people for buying/selling/trading drone parts?

>> No.1798745

>>1797664
What's a small altitude-hold drone I can just solder an FPV camera onto for cheap aerial video?
The Eachine E010 looks like it struggles when it's loaded with anything at all.

Has anyone had any success using a cheap altitude-hold toy drone as a camera platform? The Hubsan X4 H507+ comes to mind, but they have focus issues on their inbuilt FPV cameras.

>> No.1799075

>>1798738
Local facebook groups are your best bet. Buying & selling stuff is pretty much the only reason I still have a facebook account.

>> No.1799140
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1799140

>>1798717
Yeah don’t ruin a perfectly good race car, if you wanna just have fun in the living room why not get one of the Associated RC28’s? They’re cheap, RTR, and small enough to be fun inside a house.

>> No.1799227

>>1798262
I'm running 2S1P 18650 3400 mAh cells, giving me only about 45 minutes of flight time.
However my ESC could take 4S and I have a second pack, not sure about the amps though.
Allready running them pretty close to the limit at full throttle with 6-7 amps.

>> No.1799233

Update on the mini-skywalker, fixed everything up and installed the 433 MHz reciver.
The 4-channel reciver barely fits into the plane and its antenna is now integrated into the tail of the plane.
Testflight worked well, allthough that way just LOS flight.
Had to trim a little for the new winglets, but otherwise perfect.

However I was an idiot and forgot to charge the battery, but that wasn't that big of a deal as sufficient charge was left for a short 20 minute test flight.
Only the rate of climb was a little low at the end, but it's not a performance oriented build.

Currently thinking about swapping the airframe with something smaller and lighter as well as installing lighter servos.

>> No.1799303
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1799303

>>1799227
Wow, that's great flight time for that setup.
21700s have a higher discharge rate due to physical size properties. According to this graph, I should be okay running each cell at 20 amp bursts and constant 10A discharge. As I'll have a 2P setup, the load is halved. Typical peak discharge I experience is around 29A (or 15A/battery in parallel).

>> No.1799437

>>1799303
To be fair:
These are high capacity cells, not high current types.
So their internal resistance isn't as low, but they offer quite some capacity for their size, coming close to the much larger and heavier 21700 cells you mentioned.
High current type cells tend to have like 2500 mAh at that size.

>> No.1799746
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1799746

I bought a Syma X-5C like /rcg/ told me to, and I like it a lot. Been flying it with an FPV camera taped to its top shell.

Might it be possible to pull its guts out and transfer it to the frame of a 3-inch "whoop" style drone?

>> No.1799748
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1799748

>>1799746
like pic related, one of these things.

>> No.1799798

>>1799746
For a different frame you probably need to adjust the flight controller settings, I'm not sure if that is possible with that setup.

>> No.1800101

>>1799746
>>1799748
No, that won't work. The brushed motors in the Syma are a completely different ballpark to the brushless motors something like that frame needs to work.

>> No.1800134

>>1799746
>>1799748
tyro79 kit comes with electronics that will drive a cinewhoop.

>> No.1800207
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1800207

How to into drones? Like what controller should I get? I only use linux so maybe something that works well with that?
I watched a yootoob video and the guy said frsky q7x is good.

>> No.1800314

>>1800101
>The brushed motors in the Syma are a completely different ballpark to the brushless motors something like that frame needs to work.

Is adding brushless motors to the toy quad as simple as just soldering them on, or will it just introduce a whole new set of headaches?
If that's the case, would a lighter frame let me circumvent said headaches?

I guess at least a safe bet would be to use a frame near the same dimensions and weight as the original X5C shell... right? Do those exist even, or am I going to have to make one?

>> No.1800355

>>1800207
I got the flysky FS-i6, it works well enough for 6 channel control

>> No.1800407

>>1800314
>Is adding brushless motors to the toy quad as simple as just soldering them on

No. If you want something like >>1799748 you're looking at starting from scratch.

>I guess at least a safe bet would be to use a frame near the same dimensions and weight as the original X5C shell... right?

Maybe explain what your goal is first? With the components in the X5C there's not really much you stand to gain by trying to build a different frame.

>> No.1800442
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1800442

>>1797664
>>1800407
Basically I want to downsize the X5C to something between its original size and a tiny whoop to improve wind resistance. I use the X5C as a camera platform, but it's hard to keep shots in frame on breezy days because the stock casing is so god damn FAT

I've found a few short videos on YouTube of people doing "X5C guts + 8.5mm motors + 55mm props + 100mm frame," but they're all 144P, non-English with no subtitles, and have zero information in description.

>> No.1800500

>>1800207
I love my QX7. Jumper is also popular. Read the sticky.

>>1800442
No. Just no. Something like the X5C is meant to be used to see if you like flying while spending as little as possible. It can't be upgraded in any real way. I'm sure you found someone that cannibalized one somewhere, but that doesn't mean that's the next logical step.

What do you have for FPV so far? The next real step would be to get a real transmitter and either a tiny whoop or a 3" micro, 5" isn't too much more expensive. >>1800134 pointed out the Tyro79 which is a good budget option.

If you can't afford these things now, please save your money til you can get something decent. I tried going as cheap as possible getting into the hobby and you will wind up spending more money in the end after being frustrated with the cheapest chink shit you can find.

>> No.1800641
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1800641

>>1800500
I have Syma X5C, which I use with an AIO FPV camera and sometimes also a small HD camera. I've been using a phone with 5.8ghz Eachine receiver dongle to fly and compose shots. I tried a non-altitude-hold tiny whoop once, and I absolutely hated it. I prefer the barometer.

Isn't that tyro kit thing literally worse than the X5C while being 5 times as expensive?
>"Budget" FPV setup: $100 goggles + $100 compatible protocol transmitter + $75 baggie of unassembled parts + $25 of accessories and spares = $300
>Syma setup: $16 USB FPV dongle + $12 for 4 batteries + $18 drone + FREE transmitter + $20 FPV camera = $66
I'm not sure the Tyro even has altitude hold, and it only flies for 4 minutes? If downsizing the Syma cuts flight time in half due to inefficiency, wouldn't it STILL fly as long as the Tyro? I don't really understand why something so expensive that fails to outperform a toy is recommended, and why there is so little gain in performance with such a jump in price. Is the Syma just a freak meeting of price/performance lines that don't intersect again until the price goes above $250?

I like what the X5C offers, but its fat, mostly-empty body acts like a sail in the wind. I just wanted to know if it could be shrunk by any amount, without losing more than 50% of its stock flight time; whether that only meant transplanting guts to a frame of same weight and size for drag reduction and efficiency, or going as far as using 8.5mm motors and smaller props to fit 10 inch drone guts into 7, 5, or 4 inch frame for increased portability.

If the Syma modifications won't work, is there no alternative besides the "big boy" $300+ setups? I just want a smallish, cheap camera bird with altitude-hold that flies at least 8 minutes. :(

>> No.1800825

>>1800641
>I don't really understand why something so expensive that fails to outperform a toy is recommended

When you posted this frame >>1799748 people assumed you wanted to build a 3" brushless acro FPV race/freestyle quad, because that's what that frame is designed for. So somebody recommending the Tyro made sense because that's exactly what the Tyro is.

Now that you've explained your goals however, it's clear that's not what you want.

You probably could downsize your Syma. If you remove the gears (thus increasing the speed but decreasing the torque of the motors) you should be able to use much smaller props. This will have a negative effect on efficiency though, so your flight times will suffer.

One thing you won't be able to do is alter any of the tuning parameters in the flight control board to compensate for the different characteristics of the smaller props, because there is no provision on the Syma to connect it to a computer. It might be fine, it might fly like absolute shit.

I reckon your best bet is to experiment in a non-destructive way, before spending money on anything new & instead of spending ages theorycrafting with us anons. Build yourself a simple X shape frame out of popsicle sticks, hot glue the motors to the ends, find some cheap smaller props for a few dollars that have the correct hole in the hub to push fit onto the Syma motors. If you're careful, then if it doesn't work you can still reassemble it back into a Syma.

If it doesn't work & you want to spend a bit of money on something else, take a look at some of the Hubsan drones. But don't go too overboard, because their more expensive models quickly get too close in price to secondhand older DJI drones which are obviously hugely better.

>> No.1800852

>>1800641
so you just want to slowly fly around and get aerial video? You realize that's different than 99% of us in this thread right? There's nothing wrong with that, it just would have been easier if you had said that first. It's being tossed around in the wind because it's light, not because it's "huge." If you want something smaller, maybe look at one of the mavic clones.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IG5WSzSAzDc

>> No.1800993
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1800993

>>1800825
>won't be able to do is alter any of the tuning parameters
Do flight controllers know the size of the frame? Or will flight characteristics change just because the controller thinks it is on a larger frame driving different props? The possibility of moving guts onto a smaller frame seemed so interesting, but there was so little record of people trying it online, that I wasn't sure if it was even feasible to try or just a trope of Southeast Asian fake-tutorial YouTubers.

I'll get some popsicle sticks and start surgery.

>>1800852
>it just would have been easier if you had said that first.
Sorry, I guess I hadn't fully defined what I wanted to myself before I started asking questions. I probably should have picked up that this general was more about racing and freestyling by now

>> No.1801018

>>1800993
The flight controller's settings will be 'tuned' to the particular characteristics of the original frame/motors/props. Usually they are fairly good at accommodating changes, but there is just the possibility that fairly drastic changes on a toy grade drone that doesn't use particularly advanced firmware will end up flying badly.

>> No.1801112

>>1800641
>that pic
too close to home. I had to drill a crew out.

>> No.1802328

Looking for goggles, have a budget of about 300. Looking to me like skyzone has the best options at that particular price range, but not sure which model to get. Should I go cheaper with the O2c, or go up to the O3s with the slightly bigger fov and 4:3 screens? Not really ready to go up to the O30s or a decent set of fatsharks.

>> No.1802769

>>1802328

Goggles are what makes FPV FPV
Put down the money for the best skyzones you can. You'll be glad you did.

FOV is a bit of a meme (many people prefer a smallish fov) but oled is not a meme at all.

>> No.1802793

Hey /rcg, I was gifted a Mavic Pro but I don't want to wreck a nice expensive drone like that. What's a good learner drone? I was advised to pick up a Syma X5C, $40 on Amazon. Any thoughts? I intend to eventually incorporate this into my business, so I'm also studying for the Part 107 with an eye to taking professional grade videos/pictures as an end goal.

>> No.1802814

>>1802793
Samefag. After reading the sticky and the thread, I see my questions were pretty much answered. Just one basic question: does the Syma X5C work with the Flysky FS-i6 6CH 2.4GHz comtroller? Those seem to be the cheaper options for a beginner. Also, will that controller work with a fancier Mavic Pro? I'd rather just buy one controller if I can get away with it.

Wha about the little inside-the-house drones, like the Hubsan X4? Will those also be controlled by the same controller?

Thanks and my bad for not reading the thread first.

>> No.1802823

>>1802793
>with an eye to taking professional grade videos/pictures as an end goal.

I haven't researched the commercial side of things much, but my understanding is that commercial-grade multis are operated by teams of two; a pilot and a cameraman. Maybe keep this in mind? Iunno

Also, I don't think a toy is going to teach you anything helpful. And no, consumer drones will not work with hobbyist transmitters - that goes for both the toys and the nicer stuff like mavics.

If you really want to get a feel for the mechanics of flying a multirotor, I suggest a trying a simulator as an alternative to buying a toy. I have thoroughly enjoyed my time with Liftoff, and unlike the drones you mentioned it DOES work with hobby controllers including the Flysky FS-i6 - though it appears that you need a $4 USB adapter cable in this case.

>> No.1802909

>>1802814
Toy grade drones like the Syma & the Hubsan come with their own controllers, you don't need to buy one.

A Mavic Pro should also come with a controller, unless you've been gifted stolen goods.

>>1802823
>my understanding is that commercial-grade multis are operated by teams of two

I work commercially with drones & while a lot of our stuff is dual op, there's still plenty of scope for single op work. Remember that the majority of the commercial AP scene isn't multimillion dollar movie sets with teams of operators flying $50k cameras from $30k octocopters, it's individuals with Mavics shooting real estate photos or doing roof inspections.

>Also, I don't think a toy is going to teach you anything helpful.
>If you really want to get a feel for the mechanics of flying a multirotor, I suggest a trying a simulator as an alternative to buying a toy.

A FPV simulator isn't going to help at all with learning to safely/effectively fly something like a Mavic. However a toy quad like a Syma _will_ help.

>> No.1803075

>>1802909
>A FPV simulator isn't going to help at all with learning to safely/effectively fly something like a Mavic. However a toy quad like a Syma _will_ help.

I completely disagree. Can you even adjust rates on that piece of shit?

>> No.1803167

>>1803075
Flying a Syma around your garden teaches you what the sticks do & teaches you about how the controls change as you alter your orientation flying LoS. This is a very useful introduction before moving on to an expensive piece of kits like a Mavic.

Why would you even want to adjust rates on a Syma? It flies in angle mode, just like a Mavic. Rates are a meaningless concept unless you're flying in _rate_ mode (acro), which isn't what the anon I responded to was asking about.

This is remote control general, not racing quad general.

>> No.1803267

>>1803167

In my opinion flying LoS in angle mode is a very poor way of learning to control a multirotor. Before you can get good at flying LoS you have to learn to orient yourself from the drone's perspective and it is MUCH easier to learn that flying FPV. Once you have enough control of the aircraft to consistently hit gates, you have a solid basis for learning to fly LoS.

>> No.1803282
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1803282

I want to sell an RC plane I've never used that's been sitting in my basement for 10 years.

Any chance the battery has some life in it? Or should I warn the person I'm selling the plane to it's likely dead?

>> No.1803328

>>1803267
This is complete nonsense.

>Before you can get good at flying LoS you have to learn to orient yourself from the drone's perspective

Yes, absolutely, that's the point I'm making.

>it is MUCH easier to learn that flying FPV.

No, just no. Literally what are you even talking about.

The orientation of the drone relative to you doesn't matter whatsoever when flying FPV - left is always left & right is always right, on account of the camera being bolted to the thing.

But flying LoS you need to constantly maintain awareness of the orientation of the drone relative to you & what affect that has on reversing your controls.

These are two such fundamentally different scenarios I honestly can't understand you. Learning to fly FPV does absolutely nothing to help you learn to fly LoS. This is really basic common sense.

>> No.1803330

>>1803282
No, just get rid of the battery. What kind of plane?

>> No.1803340

>>1803330
piper cub

I can't tell much more I'm not into RC planes

>> No.1803349

>>1803328

Conversely THIS seems to me like complete nonsense. Why would your controls do different things at any given time?

The way you maneuver a multirotor is by yawing on to the heading you want, then applying roll to correct your vector. Nothing about that changes with flight mode.

>> No.1803354

>>1803340
at least get a picture

>> No.1803400

>>1803328

Let me ask you one simple question: at maximum stick deflection, how many degrees per second does your LoS copter yaw? If you can't answer this off the top of your head, you don't know jack shit about flying LoS and you have no business giving advice to anyone about learning it. For that matter, you probably have no business flying LoS at all because you are going to fuck up and, at a minimum, damage your equipment.

>> No.1803564

>>1803349
>Why would your controls do different things at any given time?

Are you joking? Have you literally ever flown LoS?

When you fly FPV, applying left roll on your controls will always make the quad roll to the left from your perspective looking out of the camera.

When you fly LoS however, applying left roll on your controls will only make the quad roll to the left from your perspective looking up at it from the ground when the quad is nose out from you. If the quad is nose in to you, applying left foll on your controls will make the quad roll _right_ from your perspective. If the quad is facing to the left from your perspective, applying left roll on your controls will make it roll _toward_ you. Et cetera.

With FPV your controls are fixed to your frame of reference because you are looking through a camera that is fixed forwards on the quad. With LoS your controls are not fixed like this & yawing the quad will alter & even completely reverse what your pitch & roll controls do.

This is seriously drone 101 stuff here, which is why I'm asking if you've ever actually flown LoS beyond just hover testing a new build before going FPV.

>>1803400
We're talking about flying Syma & DJI quads in angle mode. We're not talking about flying freestyle quads in acro mode like quadmovr. At least read the conversation before weighing in.

>> No.1803677

>>1803564
>We're talking about flying Syma & DJI quads in angle mode. We're not talking about flying freestyle quads in acro mode like quadmovr. At least read the conversation before weighing in.

I am the same fucking person.

To be blunt it is clear to me that you are not an experienced pilot and have little to no clue how to fly anything, in any mode, LoS or FPV.

WHATEVER aircraft you are using, whatever the mode, if you can't tell me how many degrees per second it yaws you can't fly LoS for shit and you don't know anything.

LoS or FPV, you fly from the quad's perspective. Not your perspective. Talented LoS pilots have a highly refined ability to hold the drone's perspective in their mind and a highly developed sense of exactly which degree their aircraft is on at any given point in time. This isn't based on "feel" or some shit - it is based on rates. If you can't tell me, at the absolute minimum for flying angle mode, what your yaw rate is you are not in control of your aircraft during LoS flight and you never will be. End of discussion.

>> No.1803683

>>1803677
Not involved in y'all's shitshow of an argument, but you sound like one of those YouTube niggers that people watch when they wanna be try-hard experts that put out garbage info and numbers for theory that don't really matter in the real world. Or one of those faggots from school that got every certification or shit but had never really had any experience or application. Let's see some pro footage, pls.
>inb4 "well let's see your pro footage"
I never claimed to be a sensei

>> No.1803703

>>1803677

this, 100x over. It's like driving a car and having no idea how much torque your engine is producing at the moment.

>> No.1803705

>>1803683

Moving the goalpost. I never claimed to be a sensei either. The claim I made is that flying a sim is better at teaching than flying a shitty toy, but it gradually became clear that the retard suggesting the toy didn't know enough to even have a worthwhile conversation on the subject. It became necessary to demonstrate that.

>> No.1803707

>>1803677
Wait, so you are >>1802793 ? Because that's who I originally responded to.

>it is clear to me that you are not an experienced pilot and have little to no clue how to fly anything, in any mode, LoS or FPV

I've been flying both FPV recreationally & LoS commercially for 4-5 years now. FPV mainly Betaflight, commercial stuff a mix of DJI & Arducopter. I also started flying fixed wing last year, again both FPV & LoS.

>Talented LoS pilots have a highly refined ability to hold the drone's perspective in their mind

Yes, absolutely, this is precisely the point I have been trying to make all along & this is exactly the sort of ability that practising with a cheap toy quad like a Syma can really help with. I've taught so many people how to fly multis & learning to maintain a mental model of the drone's orientation & the effect it has on the controls when flying nose-in is always the hardest part.

>LoS or FPV, you fly from the quad's perspective

The truly fundamental part you're missing here is that FPV literally gives you that perspective. When you fly FPV you don't actively "hold the drone's perspective in your mind" because you are literally watching that perspective live.

The fact you can't grok this is utterly bizarre.

>If you can't tell me, at the absolute minimum for flying angle mode, what your yaw rate is you are not in control of your aircraft during LoS flight

You should talk to all the LoS pilots in the cinema industry who fly $100k+ setups in angle mode & are talented enough to fly them inches away from concrete walls or running water. I would wager that the overwhelming majority of them either don't know or simply don't care how many degrees per second their rigs yaw at. They will just adjust it up or down until it they find what they like. And 100% of them don't care what their pitch & roll rates are because that literally doesn't even apply to angle mode.

>> No.1803709

>>1803705
>flying FPV is better at teaching angle mode than flying angle mode

Wat.

>> No.1803711

>>1803707
>grok

do you say that IRL?

>> No.1803714

>>1803707
>The truly fundamental part you're missing here is that FPV literally gives you that perspective. When you fly FPV you don't actively "hold the drone's perspective in your mind" because you are literally watching that perspective live.

Which is why flying FPV teaches LoS better than starting LoS. It gives a new pilot a basis for internalizing the drone's perspective.

>You should talk to all the LoS pilots in the cinema industry who fly $100k+ setups in angle mode & are talented enough to fly them inches away from concrete walls or running water.

"lidar" isn't "talent"

>> No.1803719

>>1803714
>Which is why flying FPV teaches LoS better than starting LoS. It gives a new pilot a basis for internalizing the drone's perspective.

I honestly can't believe that you're still not getting this. When you fly FPV you don't "internalize the drone's perspective" at all, because you are _given_ the drone's perspective.

It's like the game with the three cups and the ball, where the ball goes into one cup, they all get moved around, then you have to say which one the ball is under.

LOS is like watching the cups from your own perspective and trying to keep track in your head which one the ball is under.

FPV is like you literally _are_ the cup with the ball under it. You don't need to keep track of anything. You know exactly where the ball is because you're starting straight at it.

>"lidar" isn't "talent"

If you're implying that big cinema rigs have lidar for collision detection/avoidance, you're completely wrong. None of the big pro platforms (Alta, MFD, whatever) have any collision detection sensor whatsoever.

>> No.1803728

>>1803719

It is much easier to internalize a perspective that you have experienced that one that you have not experienced.

I guess we've figured out why you have such a hard time teaching; you have no idea how to learn.

>> No.1803730

>>1803728
>It is much easier to internalize a perspective that you have experienced that one that you have not experienced.

Literally wtf are you even talking about? I'm definitely thinking >>1803683 is on to something here.

>> No.1803739

>>1803730

It seems like we're not going to agree about anything so let's just drop the whole matter and stop shitting up the thread.

>> No.1803753

You guys are both fags i'll fly in headless mode

>> No.1803759

>>1803753

based

>> No.1803760
File: 561 KB, 1016x1354, 20200422_113910.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1803760

I stupidly and carelessly plugged my vbat into the wrong pin of my flight controller (see pic diagram) and it no longer powers up - no lights. I've searched the curcuit board for signs of a burnt out chip but can't see anything. I've also tried to use a multimeter to identify what's not working, but, honestly, I don't know what I'm doing with it. Internet isn't helping me understand either (I may be a lost cause). What might I have fried here and is it worth it to try to replace it?

>> No.1803779

>>1803760

Bricked. Get a new FC.

>> No.1804752
File: 1.37 MB, 3024x3024, 20200423_193911.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1804752

Hi, its me, the anon who insists on taking his perfectly fine Syma and putting it on a smaller frame for some damn reason.

I hand drilled motor holes with increasing sizes of bits on a screw driver. Just waiting on propellers to arrive in the mail now.

If this doesn't fly, I'll try again but with 8520 motors.

>> No.1804759
File: 1.20 MB, 1320x2560, ft explorer.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1804759

FT Explorer is ready to go. Added vortex generators and extended the elevator surface because even though I have nearly a 1:1 to thrust to weight ratio it can't climb worth crap.

>> No.1804896

>>1804752
You are the hero we need to save this thread from shitposting.

>> No.1805509
File: 2.26 MB, 3264x2448, 58599-2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1805509

Silly question, but what is the appeal to the RC hobby? I build static models now and then and every time i go to my local hobby shop i pass by these kits and i sorta want to try one. But im not sure if i would enjoy it, going to a parking lot by myself to play with one of these seems weird to me, knowing me id use it once then let it collect dust, to get these running where i am would cost 300$ after all. I did enjoy playing with rc toys as a kid though

>> No.1805548

>>1805509
Try fpv and you'll understand bro

>> No.1805773

>>1805548
aight, hold on let me just go drop about a grand on trying fpv

>> No.1805775

>>1805773
u can try fpv for less then 100usd, no reason to buy the most expensive things on the market right away

>> No.1805780

>>1805775
when you say fpv, do you mean with goggles or just a screen on your controller/phone?

>> No.1805785

>>1805773

I don't think I've ever met anyone in the FPV community that wasn't completely jazzed to introduce someone new to it. Just go find some cool dudes that will let you fly their stuff for a bit.

>> No.1805815

>>1805773
Ev800d is way cheaper and is pretty decent for a first goggle/spectator goggle when you upgrade

You can also throw a camera and vtx onto pretty much everything pretty cheap and all together it is doable for around $100 or less.

Way less once you already have a pair of goggles

>> No.1806348
File: 114 KB, 1115x505, rctestflight snowcat.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1806348

This guy just has way too much fun

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ahvTSQEPmGc

>> No.1806600
File: 1.29 MB, 2560x1707, DSC04055.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1806600

Decided I didn't really like my flat hex, so I started transforming it into another Y6 instead.

>> No.1806626

>>1806600

I've never built a pushpull multi.

It seems like propwash would tend to completely fuck these over? It also seems like the Y geometry leaves a lot of useful disc area as deadspace.

>> No.1806646

>>1806626
>It seems like propwash would tend to completely fuck these over?

I don't know about acro flying, but for big drone stuff there's no issue. You lose a little efficiency over a flat layout, but you benefit from being able to use a much smaller frame.

>It also seems like the Y geometry leaves a lot of useful disc area as deadspace.

Don't take my builds as good representations, those frames are about twice as big as they need to be. In fact one of the main benefits of coaxial setups (whether Y6, X8 or something else) is actually that they pack more disc area into a substantially smaller frame.

Imagine laying out six dinner plates on a table in the smallest circle you could without them touching. Then imagine stacking them into three pairs & then laying those three pairs out in the smallest circle you could. The latter is obviously substantially smaller.

>> No.1807447
File: 1.15 MB, 2560x1707, DSC04080.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1807447

Decided to print a sort of 'fairing' because I thought it would look neat.

>> No.1807448
File: 1.19 MB, 2560x1707, DSC04089.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1807448

>>1807447

>> No.1807640

>>1804759
is this a personal UAV

I didn't know you could have those

I want one now

>> No.1807661

>>1807640
Fixed wing RC aircraft have been around for decades longer than quadcopters

The government is only now trying to take them from us

>> No.1807665

>>1807661
Wait, they're making toy RC planes illegal too?

I guess the falling prices of the cost of entry to any kind of practice or hobby invites all sorts of people. A few who will contribute and share, most who will just consume without making a fuss, and a few who will get everyone in trouble.

>> No.1807682

>>1807665
Honestly it's not about safety or bad actors in the rc community, it's the large corporations wanting to deliver with drones lobbying the FAA to push everyone else out of the airspace. The reasons they give are just an excuse

>> No.1807771
File: 660 KB, 1320x2560, Snapchat-1507390325.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1807771

>>1807640
Yeah, make it out of foam board from the dollar tree store. Here's a build link. You can download the plans for free and get electronics from banggood or aliexpress. https://www.flitetest.com/articles/ft-explorer-build.. I wish I had another pic of it but they're on my other hard drive.

>>1807682
Exactly. When was the last confirmed drone terror attack or serious incident? The only one I can think of was Gatwick, which was never confirmed, if I remember correctly.

>> No.1808691
File: 737 KB, 1152x1536, ft explorer.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1808691

Here's the FT explorer right after launch (I'm behind the black paint). It doesn't like manual/pass through mode so I always use horizon mode so it doesn't flip upsidedown, but that's part of having a scratch build.

>> No.1808731
File: 618 KB, 2316x1737, IMG_20200422_113029.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1808731

>>1808691
This really makes me wish the coronavirus situation here would clear up so I could go fly. I pretty much finished a Bixler 3 just as we all got ordered to stay at home.

>> No.1808856

>>1808731
You cant? I'd assume a large open area is perfect both for flying as well as quarantine. I'm in a remote location already so only hear about the situation via the news but that's pretty wild to think your all isolating that strictly.

>> No.1808886
File: 72 KB, 581x767, 1586798838810.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1808886

>>1808856
He could be euro or live in a euroesque US stste

>> No.1808897

>>1808856
UK, only allowed to leave the house for essential groceries & one form of exercise a day. Driving an hour to a suitable flying spot to stand around flying a RC plane doesn't count, unfortunately.

>> No.1809047

>>1808897

I'm surprised that you're allowed to own rc aircraft at all. Don't the props count as knives or something?

>> No.1809052

>>1808886
in canada public parks are closed

>> No.1809104
File: 321 KB, 735x413, RCBlackbird.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1809104

How fast is fast enough?

>> No.1809299

>>1808897
How ridiculous. Who are you going to infect in an empty field? Sweden's approach seems much better. Elderly care homes are in lockdown, people are advised to stay home, public events (50 people or more) are banned (very nice, means the commies won't be going on parade tomorrow), but otherwise everything is still open. You can go to pubs, you're just required to sit at a table instead of at the bar, you can go shopping, they've just installed ridiculous plastic screens in front of the cashiers to obstruct their work, you can even exercise however much you want.

>> No.1809305
File: 518 KB, 2104x1722, tank 3 roadwheel bogie 65mm.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1809305

Schachtellaufwerk is happening.

>> No.1809310

>>1809299
>How ridiculous. Who are you going to infect in an empty field?

It's the travelling to & from the empty field. If you have to fill up the car you're touching the petrol pump & potentially interacting with the cashier. If your car breaks down you're interacting with the recovery service & probably sitting in the cab of the van with them the whole way home. If you're in an accident you're interacting with the emergency services. If you live in an apartment building even the fact that you're touching the door handles, lift buttons, etc. for this non-essential journey means that you're potentially helping to spread the virus.

Sweden's death rate isn't exactly good either. It's higher than some similar size countries & much higher than neighbouring Nordic countries.

>> No.1809313

>>1809310
Something like 50% of Sweden's death rate belongs to Somalia.

>> No.1809315

>>1809305
Post the rest of the tank.

>> No.1809375
File: 482 KB, 919x904, Screenshot_20200416-131809_Chrome.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1809375

>>1809310
That's a lot of ifs to justify such draconian orders.

>> No.1809390

>>1809375
If 60 million people all start doing that, those ifs become very common.

>> No.1809405

>>1809390
Not really though. Sweden isn't doing lockdowns, and their infection rate isn't significantly worse than elsewhere. All they're doing is locking up their elders and putting a moratorium on concerts and such. Way less draconian than these ridiculous "How dare you hike in the woods alone! Five million dollar fine!" stories I keep seeing.

Hell, today I went shopping on my way home from work and guess what, you could barely tell that there was a pandemic on. There are little striped lines to advice you keep your distance in queues, but all the sandniggers ignore those anyway so you can't even tell.

>> No.1809407

>>1809375
Don't forget they are the people who believe in magical TV detector vans. Draconian restrictions sre a way of life for them.

Btw does tv detector space magic detect our fpv goggles?

>> No.1809414

>>1809407
No. The detector van is basically a microphone that listens specifically for the super-high pitch whine a CRT screen gives off. It won't detect anything with LCDs. They were 80% useless before 2000 and 100% useless since, the reason they still drive around with them is to spook boomers. They look for areas with large clusters of homes that don't pay licenses, then send the driver there in the evening to write down on a list all house numbers he can see a TV inside of. The ones that don't pay the license get sent a threatening letter, which they then post on facebook to scare all their friends into complying.

5.8GHz is a very hard signal to trace even with equipment that can do that, it bounces all over the place. Even just 2.4 is nearly impossible. During the "airport drone incident" in UK last winter they brought in an Israeli signal sniffer, literally some of the best equipment in the world for that sort of stuff, and they couldn't find any trace that a quad had been in the area, much less where it had flown from.

>> No.1809430

>>1809414

Long range van eck phreaking has been real-world tech for at least a couple of decades and there are some related technologies based on self-focusing in nonlinear optics that offer spooky capabilities when it comes to signals intelligence.

Basically you should assume that anything you do involving an electrical circuit or a magnetic field can be subject to fine-resolution surveillance. Whether anyone would ever care enough to point an orbital EKG at you is another matter entirely.

>> No.1809444

>>1809430
>van eck phreaking
Not what the BBC was doing though. They might have gotten the idea from there, but the actual detector was just a directional microphone, and apparently it was still extremely hit or miss. Certainly my family never got picked up on, and we had three TVs running more or less all day, and the TV van actually did make a few circuits of our neighbourhood. They would send a letter that made it seem as if you could avoid a fine if you paid up before the van showed up to "detect" you, which my father never paid, and still we never got found out.
Sure you could probably van eck phreak a FPV goggle, but we're so saturated in technology now that I'm dubious how effective it would be. You can barely even sniff WLAN in some city centres nowaday because of the five gazillion devices screaming in that frequency band.

>> No.1809468

>>1809444
>>1809430
>>1809414
>>1809407
>>1809405
>>1809390
>>1809375
>>1809313
>>1809310
>>1809299

Friendly reminded that this is /rcg/

>> No.1809471
File: 508 KB, 918x904, 20200430_110739.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1809471

>>1809468

>> No.1809524
File: 454 KB, 1080x1440, 20191105-164727_720x@2x.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1809524

Got some new props in the mail today. HQ 3x1.5x2 and 3x1.5x3.

These are the lowest pitch 3" props on the market afaik. I mounted up the two blade set onto a Primo 3 converted from a sailfly x; so 3s battery through 1102 8500kv motors.

I would say that these are the first 3" props that I've used which are genuinely well-suited to a 1102 motor; I saw little to no propwash as compared to even the HQ 3x2x2s. Efficiency was, of course, very good. Punchouts very smooth rather than explosive. Like other HQprops in the micro class, not the most durable.

Overall I think these would be a slightly better fit for a 4s setup and I am looking forward to trying out the 3-bladed version.

>> No.1809946
File: 2.08 MB, 3120x1874, 20200501_144516.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1809946

>mini-skywalker is back
Now with 4-blade prop for more thrust and higher efficiency as well as some additional paint to make maximum LOS distance higher
However I'll probably swap the airframe soon for a proper glider to get some more flighttime out of it as well as better flight characteristics.

>> No.1809971

>>1809946
More blades generally means less efficiency.

>> No.1810022

>>1809971
It's a little more complicated than that.
The pitch of the blades relative to the moving air and how far you accellerate the air makes a huge difference.
With the 4-blade I accellerate more air less, wich is more efficient than less air more.
On the opposite end you have planes like Funjets that spin 5x5 props at 35000-45000 rpm with terrible efficiency at low speed and almost supersonic prop tips at topspeed at 1000-2000W or something.

Idealy you would want a huge ass 1-blade propeller for maximum efficieny due to the vortex forming at the tip of each blade, but I can't fit that to my plane.

>> No.1810047

>>1810022

What kind of monster pitch were you running before that you think a 4-blade prop represents efficiency gains?

Generally speaking when you add blades to a prop you are effectively adding pitch, not disc area. You are accelerating the same amount of air more.

If you want to "accelerate more air less" you need a longer prop, not a proper with more blades.

>> No.1810085

>>1810047
It's not the pitch of the prop itself, but the pitch relative to the airflow.
The prop is a 5x4.
And the disc-area isn't the only factor in the amount of air you acellerate as the prop doesn't cover all of it at the same time.
Meanwhile adding blades doesn't change the pitch at all.

>> No.1810087

>>1810085

Is English not your first language?

>> No.1810141

>>1810085
Tell us the size/pitch of your 4-blade prop, the size/pitch of whatever prop you were using before & what motor/ESC/cell count you're using. I'll put it into eCalc for you & tell you which is actually more efficient.

>> No.1810264

>>1810087
Nope.
>>1810141
The previous setup at a too low thrust even for a plane this light.
Climbed pretty slowly and couldn't fly against the wind at all.

>> No.1810570

>>1810264
>Nope.

I understand. You read and write and presumably speak English very well but there was a little bit of misunderstanding.

>> No.1810597

>>1810570
Yeah, he writes very well. Skimming posts I couldn't even tell.

>> No.1810812

>>1810570
Yea, my native language is german.
We have seperate words for the pitch relative to the airflow (Anstellwinkel) as well as the pitch relative to the structure (Einstellwinkel).
Articulating that in english is a little hard for me as I'm not aware of such words existing in the english language.

>> No.1810857

I'm new to the hobby and I need help: I have a tinyhawk on which I flashed JESC 96kHz and put the PMB tune. JESC extended significantly flight time, but introduced a ton of instability, with the drone shaking itself out of the sky if I do any aggressive maneuver (tight turns, dives, punches); I tried raising the D value, but it didn't really solve the issue. Is there a way to tune this problem out?

>> No.1810858

>>1810812
>the pitch relative to the airflow
>the pitch relative to the structure
They're called respectively
>angle of attack
>angle of incidence

>> No.1810984

>>1810857
>JESC extended significantly flight time

I had not heard of this. Reading up now. An extra 90 seconds of flight on a whoop battery is very impressive.

>> No.1810990

>>1810984
Yes, indeed. 96kHz is supposedly experimental, while 48kHz is the indicated one. I haven't found much improvement from 24kHz to 48kHz, but going to 96kHz made a world of difference. The issue however is the aforementioned instability. I still fly in angle mode, since every time I try horizon or air I end up losing control and crashing.

Talking about the instability, it manifests as the drone rolling left and right with increasingly higher amplitude. I guess that a hard acceleration gets overcompensated and the feedback loop is inherently unstable over certain values of acceleration; I increased the D value, as I understand it's a dampener (to use a mechanical analogy), but it didn't really solve the issue. I kinda understand PID, but I'm not familiar with Betaflight.

>> No.1811009

>>1810990
>I still fly in angle mode, since every time I try horizon or air I end up losing control and crashing.

This indicates to me that you need to dial in your rates.

I don't know enough about tuning to eliminate oscillations from experimental firmware though.

>> No.1811230
File: 1.08 MB, 2560x1707, DSC04096.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1811230

I figured if I want flexibility when it comes to mounting payloads & don't care too much about weight, why not slap a 15mm rail system on top? The fact I designed 1/4" holes into my carbon battery plates meant the hardware literally just bolted on.

>> No.1811231
File: 893 KB, 2560x1707, DSC04122.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1811231

Beginning to look like some sort of space battleship though...

>> No.1812433

Anyone recommend the Rooster or Chameleon? They're half off at RCCrazed. Still, at $50 a frame I don't know if I should buy 1, 2, or more. Looking to make a fleet for friendly races on my property and woods behind it.

>> No.1812444

>>1805509

Building and maintaining the car in good shape, triming the suspension, direction, etc, i love that part as much as running it.

>> No.1812574

>>1812433

I would not seriously consider paying that kind of money for 5"+ frames that don't even have replaceable arms. Especially if you planning on building and maintaining a fleet, you want repairs to be as simple as possible.

Also if the people you are going to let fly these things are not very experienced, maybe 5" racing quads are too much for them?

What are you planning on doing for goggles? Antennas?

>> No.1812840

>>1812433
>>1812574
Armattan frames tend to be very high quality and durable, and for just 50 bucks it's a pretty good deal, if they're from an authorized retailer. Remember that Armattan has lifetime warranty on their frames.
I have a chameleon frame that I purchased second hand and pretty beat up, just haven't put any electronics on it yet..
Even though it's majorly beat up, and some of the aluminium parts have been bent, there's no delamination on the arms, except for just the tips.

>> No.1813484
File: 38 KB, 793x397, Dr.Christmas.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1813484

I'm setting up a Tyro79. Had huge problems before the with the FC, had to order replacements. Now it's all together, and yaw, pitch and roll work well. But on throttle, only three motors spin. I've reset the gyro and accelerometer. I've checked every connection I can find. I've hit it a few times. What are possible solutions?

>> No.1813485

>>1807448
That looks real nice mate

>> No.1813488

>>1813484
* All the motors power together fine with BL Heli too, forgot to mention. It's only with the transmitter that it refuses to budge.

>> No.1813604

>>1813484
I just want to go into this a bit more because it's driving me stir crazy.

All 4 motors fire up together, perfectly in unison with Betaflight. The motors are all good.
ESCs have all been flashed with BL heli, FC flashed with betaflight
I changed the power out to ensure it wasn't the power source.

With the transmitter, raw, pitch, and yaw all work fine (little bit of jitter, but it's okay)
The transmitter looks to be responding correctly when I fiddle the sticks and watch the channels in betaflight. Throttle channel moves correctly.

With the transmitter ONLY, throttle on slightly sends motor 3 to 2000, motors 2 and 4 to 1700 and motor 1 to 1100 (no movement). If I tilt the drone, motor 1 starts up, another shuts down and one of them goes full power. If I power off the throttle, they all stay spinning. Only a disarm will stop them then.
This got me thinking it was the accelerometer was dodgy so I disabled it,. No difference - I got the exact same as the above.

What the hell is going on here?

>> No.1813620

>Look into making an RC plane because im so bored i want to jump off a bridge
>Batteries are dogshit and give you minimal fly time
>Surely a small gas engine should be cheap seeing as how the technology and infrastructure to make them has been around for 100 years
>Nope, cheapest hobby gas engine I can find is 500$
>Also want to get into ultralights
>Can buy a used ultralight for 2x the price/new for 4-6x of just the hobby motor
What the fuck is wrong with you people, why would you choose to build any of this crap when you can just play with real toys that are barely more expensive.

>> No.1813682

>>1813604

What kind of TX are you using? What FC Sometimes there is a solder pad that you have to bridge depending on your TX protocol. Are you using the correct bus type? Channels set up correctly? Have your modes set up?

That last behavior you describe where the motors spin on arm is changeable in betaflight, but it's always going to be like that with the quad in Air mode. And you DO want the quad in Air mode while actually flying.

>>1813620
>>Batteries are dogshit and give you minimal fly time

Not true at all.

>What the fuck is wrong with you people, why would you choose to build any of this crap when you can just play with real toys that are barely more expensive.

Flying multirotors FPV is waaaaaaaaay more fun and interesting than flying ultralights or LSAs, which is the most incredibly fucking boring thing ever.

If you want to fly fun aircraft for real on the cheap, sailplanes are the way to go.

>> No.1813710
File: 9 KB, 250x258, 1311607337465.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1813710

>>1813682
Anon, you made something that clicked right away.

Exactly what this guy said
https://youtu.be/MgLTSb8eEEA?t=3678

> Dont have permanent airmode turned on, "it does strange things"

I'll give it a spin tomorrow when it's not midnight. Thanks!

>>1813620
Different boats for different folks. If I want a relaxing day, sure, I'd take up ultralight. Or fishing. If I want to race around empty fields and buildings dodging things at 70mph without ending up in hospital, then I'll use a drone.

>> No.1813793

>>1813620
>Batteries are dogshit and give you minimal fly time

Getting 45+ minutes from a battery powered RC plane is pretty easy. I can guarantee that you get bored long before then & will want to take a break anyway.

>> No.1813867

>>1813620
I'm currently getting only about 45 minutes from my plane with two 18650 cells.
However that's mostly the inefficient airframe wich is to blame.
The upgraded airframe is allready under construction and I expect 1,5-2 h flight time with four 18650 cells (2S2P) or 1h or more with two cells (2S1P) due to a more efficient wing, narrower fusselage and more space for a larger propeller.

Glow or gas engines don't realy offer longer flighttimes either as they are pretty inefficient at that scale.
Especialy glow engines burn rather quickly through a tank of gas.

>> No.1813950

>>1813867
Are you running a Parrot Disco?

>> No.1814073

>>1803760
In my exlerience 90% of fried stuff are invisible (no magic smoke nor burb marks) unless you have an SMD (de)soldering station, the experuence that goes with it and a microscope, you better off to just go buy a new one

>> No.1814122

>>1813950
No, a mini Skywalker with EzUHF reciver and 600 mW 5.8 GHz video transmitter.
However the components may soon be transfered over to a different airframe.
A "simply the best" glider I rescued from the trash and that I currently rebuild and modify.
Batteries are Panasonic NCR18650B, lowe power high capacity type cells.

>> No.1814143

>>1806348
So cool!!!

>> No.1814175

>>1813867
>only about 45 minutes
that's nothing to be ashamed about.

>> No.1814186

>>1814175
Let's say it predecessors (Skywalker X-8 and later Skywalker Condor) had significantly higher flighttimes, but are now highly illegal due to their weightclass.
The X-8 was ~10 kg at its heaviest, the later Condor with the full battery setup, pan/tilt, 3-axis gyro stabilistation, 2000 mW video, 433 MHz diversity reciver and GoPro came in at 6,5 kg.
The Mini now has to stay below 250 g for legal reasons.

All 3 where/are long-range capable to at least 5 km depending on what kind of antennas I use at the ground I could go significantly further than that.

>> No.1814478

>>1814186
What country do you live in that you can't even fly 6.5kg? I'm guessing somewhere in Europe if you write numbers like '6,5' rather than '6.5'.

>> No.1814552

>>1814478
Yea, here it is pretty much:
>below 250g
Almost anything goes, when staying below 30 m you can go FPV alone.
>below 2000 g
You need a spotter for FPV and there must be a fireproof dogtag with your name and adress onboard the plane/copter.
>below 5 kg
You need a licence.
>above 5 kg
You need a licence and permission

As the Condor can't go on a diet and lose 4,5 kg, I reconsidered it and build the unexpected 250 g longrange setup.

>> No.1814558

>>1814552
Damn, that's pretty restrictive. The current legislation in the UK is dumb because of how it considers anything <20kg the same, so a $10 plastic toy quad has to follow the same rules as a 18kg agricultural spraying octocopter, but at the same time I don't have to worry about weight. Nothing I build is going to reach 20kg, but I've frequently flown stuff over 2kg in situations where a spotter would've gotten incredibly bored & hated me for making them sit there.

They are introducing new classifications here 'soon' (just been delayed until November) which should make flying small stuff & toy drones less ridiculous, but will probably also make flying 'regular' hobbyist stuff between 250g & 2kg more restrictive :/

>> No.1814788
File: 413 KB, 1034x1205, 105.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1814788

Anyone make their own antennas? I'm trying to make a 1280mhz clover, but there are so many conflicting angles and measurements. Some places say the angle is 105°, others 120°. Lengths on where to cut and bend are conflicting too.

>> No.1815434

Bump

>> No.1815585

Betaflight 4.2 sounds like they are reworking alot of the PID and Gyro to work better with RPM filtering.

RPM filtering is really good and anything they do to improve it I am on board with.

Its helped to remove alot of the propwash I had on my 5 inch drone.

>> No.1815600

>>1814788
3 lobes or 4?

>> No.1815609

>>1809104
Does it have functional turbo ramjet engines?

>> No.1815610

I have two small quads (the $30 toy ones) and a medium sized one.
I was thinking about turning them into a plane. Two motors on each wing and using them to turn.
I'm new into this so I'm not sure if it's as simple as just mounting them on some foam frame, or would I need a new flight controller?

>> No.1815668

>>1815600
I want to make both. 3 for transmitter, 4 for the receiver.

>> No.1815680

>>1815668
Is it possible that you are seeing that 3 lobes uses 120, while 4 uses 105?

>> No.1815931

>>1815610
The flight controller doesn't work for fixed wing and you need servos for the controll surfaces.

>> No.1816381

>>1802769
I got the 03Os, not regretting it, but Chang split up my order so I will still be waiting weeks for a battery that will get my quad off the ground.

>> No.1817070

>>1816381

Yo but what COLOR?!

>> No.1817145

>>1817070
I know you're joking, but many people prefer white goggles over black because they don't get as warm when stood out in the sun.

>> No.1817196

>>1817145

Not joking at all. The Skyzone 03Os come in a variety of cool colors.

>> No.1817722

What is the absolute cheapest POS with follow me mode?

>> No.1817733

>>1817722
build your own with Ardupilot

>> No.1817742

>>1817733
Will that actually be cheaper than some $100 chinese POS

>> No.1817750

>>1817742
No
The cheapest one I could find is the Syma X5UW

>> No.1817751

>>1797664
Hey, /rcg/. I want to get into the RC car hobby. Problem is, there seems to be a split on whether to get a RTR or a kit. Is it better to build your first from the kit so you have a better idea on how it works?

>> No.1817826

>>1817750
It seems like it might but I'm having trouble finding confirmation.

>> No.1818104

>>1817751
>Is it better to build your first from the kit so you have a better idea on how it works?
If they're anything like how I learned drones, then yes, build from a kit first. Bit more pricey maybe, but it's better than shooting in the dark.

>> No.1818108

Anons, I'm trying to build a RC submarine with FPV. The FPV cam is in a sealed GoPro case. The FPV power runs through 200ft of ethernet CAT5 cable, meaning the gauge is quite small.

At the FPV camera, I'm measuring 5V in, but no signal out on the video cable, even just a few cm from the camera. How do you measure video signal correctly to tell if it's outputting? The way I have the camera sealed in makes it difficult to disconnect the connection at the camera itself.

>> No.1818136

>>1818108


I believe you will need an oscilloscope for this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fw9NIeR81mg

>> No.1818138

>>1818136
>oscilloscope
I don't want to spend $500 if I can

>> No.1818139

>>1818138

You can buy or build one for as little as like $20

>> No.1819330

>>1818139
Thanks, you just reminded me I still wanted to buy a cheap 'scope & now I'm £50 poorer.

>> No.1819531

Is it possible to use a gyro/stabilizer with differential steering?

Trying to get my R/C lawnmower to track straight.
Every bump, twig, or rock sends it off course.
Lawn looks like a drunk gardener cut it.
No straight lines!

Thanks

>> No.1819559

>>1819531
Sounds almost like you want a tilt-compensated magnetometer (compass)? This would give you a reliable 'direction' even as the lawnmower tilts/rolls because of driving over twigs.

>> No.1819571
File: 842 KB, 1320x2560, Snapchat-1979323964.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1819571

>>1815680
I just decided to follow IBCrazy'd tutorial from 2011 and used the same length on both the 3 and 4 lobr antennas. It penetrates from my basement to second story crystal clear unless I point the bottom of the antenna directly at the other antenna. So I think I did it right. Will do a range test on the normal stick antenna vs China clovers vs my clovers when my 900mhz tx module gets in.

>> No.1819612

>>1819559
>tilt-compensated magnetometer
Thank friend!
I'm googling the stuffing out of this.
Don't know if I'm smart enough to incorporate it into my robot.

I'll be reading into the wee hours!

>> No.1821551

I want to get high-current batteries for a particular project, and figure you lot are the right ones to ask.
>https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32976958978.html
Is this even close to being legit? I want high-current more than I want high-capacity (for now at least), and all the 18650s I was looking at were between 2C and 10C discharge. But suddenly I look at lipos and 30C is commonplace, and for pretty low prices too. So can I actually pull anything close to 100A out of one of these guys? For how long before the lipos overheat? I was actually going to just go with 50A, maybe a bit higher, if that makes the picture better.

I also want a 12S pack but most of the cheap ones I'm seeing are 6S, so I'd like to know how easy it would be to chain two in series. I'm assuming getting that to work would just require using two seperate 6S BMSs in series.

Then there's the matter of charging them, I don't have a benchtop adjustable or programmable PSU, and would prefer to get some sort of standalone dedicated lipo charger. But this matter can wait 'till later, worst case scenario I can buy (or chain together) a cheap DC PSU and shove an adjustable buck converter in there and control it with an MCU that's programmed with an appropriate charging curve. Might even be able to ditch the CC stuff if I do a slow enough CV ramp (the thing can handle 30 fucking C after all), in a pinch. I have always wanted to make a dV/dt measuring Li-ion charger.

>>1815668
>>1815680
>Is it possible that you are seeing that 3 lobes uses 120, while 4 uses 105?
105° is the angle between vertices on a tetrahedron, so this postulation makes complete sense. You run into that angle in chemistry, it's the angle between hydrogens on a methane molecule (or any other tetrahedral chemical)

>> No.1821552

>>1821551
Now that I think of it, two BMSs in series will not balance the cells properly, hence I'll potentially end up with a lower overall capacity. In order to use two lipos with a single 12S BMS I think I'd need to do some solder splicing on the balancing line, but that's not really an issue.
What I'm most excited about with regards to lipos is not having to buy a spot-welder.

>> No.1821653

>>1821551
LiPo's are typically much higher discharge rate than Li-ions. This is why you don't see Li-ions used for high performance planes or quads. You can buy a series adapter or just make one yourself with some XT60 or XT90 connectors. Just get a balance charger, they're typically $30 for a decent one.

What are you building that you want 50-100A, but have never used LiPo's?

>> No.1821661

>>1821653
>they're typically $30 for a decent one

$30 won't get you a decent balance charger, all it will get you is a shitty B6AC clone.

>> No.1821682

>>1821661
>B6AC

I have one and it works fine. Post a recommendation or fuck off.

>> No.1821696

>>1821682
I also have one & it also works fine. Doesn't make it a 'decent' charger though, especially for the size of packs that other anon is talking about - at 50W max it would take hours to charge pairs of packs that size.

Something like an ISDT Q8 with a suitable power supply would be a sensible recommendation.

>> No.1822091

>>1821653
>What are you building that you want 50-100A, but have never used LiPo's?
Nothing RC. Something close to an e-bike or e-scooter, but not quite. I'm new to high-power stuff but I'm relatively well versed in electronics in general. But everywhere I turn it's easier to go with existing solutions than make my own PCB, at least for prototyping.
I've found a good motor that I might be able to use, and it's a ~12S ~50A motor. I intend on stress-testing this motor (and other motors) on a homemade dynamometer, using a load-cell coupling the motor mounting to the frame to measure torque, and a hydraulic brake (paddle in a bucket) and/or disc brake as a variable load. Haven't made it yet, gonna see if my welder friend can help me out by sticking a couple of bearing blocks to a frame. Hence why, for now, I don't care about capacity, just current.

>>1821696
>hours to charge
I don't care about that for now, this is all just for prototyping. I'll put B6AC on my list.

When I do want higher capacity, if I just want to slap two existing lipos in parallel, can I just common the balance lines too?

And thanks for the valuable replies!

>> No.1822140

>>1822091
>common the balance lines too?
No, just the power and ground. You should be charging them separately.

>> No.1822225

>>1822140
So, I don't need a BMS at all, just something to monitor overdischarge and overcurrent, right?

>> No.1822393

What's the minimum buy-in to try fpv racing?

>> No.1822447

Why is it so rare to put fpv on planes? I’ve seen it on fpv wings and things like the zohd talon, but never on model edf or turbine planes.

>> No.1822451

>>1822393
For a decent experience that won’t make you hate it, around 200 but you’ll probably have to upgrade later.
Flysky fs i6 is $40 but I’d suggest you save $10 more and get the fs i6x or $60 more and get the taranis x9 lite.
Decent box goggles are around $80.
Mobula 7 $90 or eachine trashcan $110.

>> No.1822470

>>1822451
>Decent box goggles are around $80
Noob here, what's the difference between those and VR headsets?

>> No.1822477

>>1822470
The signal is analog. You can get box goggles which is just a screen you put close to your face, or you can get ones that have a small screen for each eye like fatsharks.

>> No.1822510

>>1822140
You do know charging with parallel boards is extremely common, right? People don't individually charge a dozen packs before going for an hour of flying.

>> No.1822533

>>1822510
He's talking about combining 2x 6S batteries to make a 12S and asked about combining the balance leads. Yes, you can charge them at the same time using a parallel board, but I don't want him permanently soldering the balance leads together when that's not needed to power his 12S fucking machine.

>> No.1822535

>>1822533
Nah he was replying to >>1822091:
>When I do want higher capacity, if I just want to slap two existing lipos in parallel, can I just common the balance lines too?
As in, the end result would have 4 (or 6 or 8 or whatever) Lipos, in a 2x2 (or 2x3 or 2x4 or whatever) setup. The extra couple of lipos would probably just be an intermediate step as a part of the prototyping process, a potential way of upgrading the battery without spending as much on new lipos.

For your information, I wouldn't solder the leads together, but clip them onto a custom PCB with the relevant connectors. And I'm getting the impression that you don't need to do active balancing at all during a discharge cycle, so that's no BMS to take up space, and no need to connect the balancing lines to anything except for safety monitoring.
Is "fucking machine" meant to be a pejorative or just in reference to having a 2.5kW motor on something that should legally be below 300W?

>> No.1822596

>>1822535
You're correct, the balance leads are only used during charging. The individual cells shouldn't go out of balance during a discharge cycle, unless one or more of them are faulty.

>> No.1823073

>>1822477
>The signal is analog
Oh that's interesting. I'd have thought that digital would be easier these days, but I guess any DSP has some latency?
>just a screen you put close to your face
Not stereoscopic then. I wonder how much having stereoscopic vision would actually help.

>> No.1823154

>>1823073
>I'd have thought that digital would be easier these days

Digital is still _way_ more expensive & (to a lesser extent) more bulky.

>I wonder how much having stereoscopic vision would actually help.

For 99% of FPV flying it would make zero difference, because stereopsis reduces as distance increases. Unless you spend a lot of time flying through tree branches you don't even notice stereo.

>> No.1823218

>>1806600
Y6 is bae

>> No.1823325

>>1822091
Ok, I want XT60, not T, right? My motor uses those massive bananas anyhow, so I'll be buying connectors and adapters regardless.
>https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32976958978.html
And this is the B6AC (clone?) that's not a bad starting buy?
>https://www.aliexpress.com/item/345432712.html
I assume the balancing lines are perfectly compatible.

Now I gotta figure out what wire I'm using. Am I going to need 8awg or 6awg or something that stupid?

>> No.1823334

>>1797664
I came here once before asking about drones a couple months ago. I finally bit the bullet. I got a mavic air and this vusion (used). Guy showed me that everything on the mavic worked correctly. The vusion would power up but he said it wouldn't pair to the controller and he never messed with it. Threw it in for a few extra bucks. Got all pictured for $560.

The mavic is awesome! I've only crashed once. We got the vusion to pair pretty easily but I've only flown it once since I'm a beginner.

>> No.1823335
File: 2.68 MB, 1429x1310, 2020-05-17 21.00.49.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1823335

>>1823334
Forgot pic. I'm thinking of selling the vusion and using that money to buy another battery for the mavic. I came here today to see what advice yall have for batteries. Do they need to be oem ones? I haven't read the thread yet so forgive me if that info is already there

>> No.1823372
File: 25 KB, 260x219, 1580891236035.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1823372

undergrad engineer here
i'm looking to start tinkering with anything drone related and having fun making and experimenting on a basic drone system with 3D printed parts. anyone know a good starter kit or website where I can get some beginner parts and a versatile frame?

>> No.1823418

>>1797664
>wanted small flight controller for my plane
>buy omnibus v3 pro
>didn't know it couldn't power 2 servos
>now I need an ESC with a bec
>my plane is turning into wire spaghetti
I'm using small quad ESC and all the escs I can find that have becs are big and bulky. Is there a small flight controller for a that doesn't need a bec for the servo

>> No.1823426

>>1823418
Matek f411

>> No.1823428

>>1823372

There are a lot of options and it sort've depends on your short and longterm goals.

There are a few basic avenues for the hobby which branch off into sub-specialties;

1. Commercial/consumer drones with an emphasis on photo & video capability

2. Hobbyist drones & fixed wing aircraft with an emphasis on recreational flying; this is sort've an intermediate discipline. You will build a knowledgebase but it need not dive in to the gnitty gritty mathematics.

3. Hobby robotics built on open-source platforms like Ardupilot/Arducopter, etc. This can be as simple as soldering together off-the-shelf components and tinkering with the front-end of the flight controller software, or you can go as deep down the rabbit hole as you care to. Sounds like this is what you are after; http://www.arducopter.co.uk/what-do-i-need.html

>> No.1823437

>>1823372

Oh, and as for parts you can get them at tons of places online. eBay or Amazon are fine but usually a little bit more expensive than the specialist stores or banggood. I get most of my goodies from RaceDayQuads or the other places I mentioned.

>> No.1823606

>>1823428
>>1823437
thanks, i'd be looking more at the third option, im not shy to tinker and learn
thanks for the link frien
any good sources on the best buys? any yt even

>> No.1823679

>>1823325
>Ok, I want XT60, not T, right?

You might even want XT90, if you're genuinely going to be pulling the amounts of power you're talking about.

>And this is the B6AC (clone?) that's not a bad starting buy?

Some of the clones (especially the cheapest ones) are downright dangerous/unusable. The better/more expensive clones & the legit SkyRC ones are fine, if rather anaemic.

>Am I going to need 8awg or 6awg or something that stupid?

No. Normally the gauge of the wires coming out of the batteries is a good indication of what you need/what the batteries are realistically going to output.

>>1823418
The issue with powering servos from a flight controller is that the stall current on even a small/cheap servo will completely overload the 5V regulator on most flight controllers, which will then cause the flight controller itself to brownout/restart. Flight controllers designed specficially for wings, like >>1823426 mentions, tend ot have separate higher power regulators just for the servos.

>>1823606
Painless360 has a new series on YouTube all about the state of Arducopter/Pixhawk & getting started in 2020, there's a link in the OP.

>> No.1823720

>>1823606
>any good sources on the best buys?

Keep in mind that the hobby is evolving at an insane pace. A lot of the now-standard components available today didn't exist on the market six months ago, and six months from now that will be true again. Everyone developing and using these products is constantly pushing to make things lighter, faster, more efficient, more durable, more feature-rich, etc

My favorite youtubers are kababfpv, drone mesh, albert kim, and rctestflight (most relevant to your interests I think) but I follow a number of others. They each focus on specialties under the general umbrella of multirotors.

One thing to decide right now is whether you want to build an aircraft that is over or under the 250 gram cutoff for exemption from FAA registration.

>> No.1823804

>>1823679
Well the batteries come with XT60, and I don't know the gauge since I haven't bought them yet. Actually there's probably a standard wire gauge for XT60. ANd now that I look deeper, I can message the seller to give me a battery with XT90 or whatever instead, which I may well do.
I'll look around more at chargers, thanks.

>> No.1823868

>>1823804
>Actually there's probably a standard wire gauge for XT60.

No there isn't, because XT60 are used on such a wide range of batteries. I've bought packs as small as 450mAh 3S & as large as 8000mAh 6S with XT60 connectors on & obviously the wire gauge wasn't the same.

>> No.1824118

>>1823868
>XT60 are used on such a wide range of batteries
I see. At least I imagine there's a maximum size for the connector itself. Not sure if I'd rather try to crimp, or try to solder such a large connector, be it XT60 or XT90.

Doing some math, if I use awg12 then that gives me a 0.5V drop across 2m of wire at 50A (0.5/50 = 0.01Ω, 0.01/2 = 0.005Ω/m = 5mΩ/m), which looks fine to my untrained eye, but that's only 2mm diameter copper. Calculating the power loss, that's only 1% of what I'll be pushing to the motor, but also a full 26 total watts, and I think it's above the "ampacity" of awg12.
Is there some sort of rule of thumb for equating a current value to a preferred wire gauge in the RC community?

FYI I'll be measuring battery current with a hall-effect current sensor, so voltage drop in the wire is no issue.

>> No.1824123

>>1824118

Soldering XT connectors is totally painless.

>> No.1824195

>>1824123
>Soldering XT connectors is totally painless.
I was just wondering if the heavy copper mass of the connector and cable would wick away heat. But now that I've looked at the spec and it says the largest wire you're to use with XT60 is awg12, that's probably not much of an issue. At least it isn't an issue with a temperature-controlled ~80W soldering station like I own, it's probably a lot worse trying to use a PTC-controlled ≤40W soldering iron.

>> No.1824219

>>1824118
>>1824195
The XT family are solder cup connectors, there is physically no way you can crimp them.

12AWG is the biggest you can reasonably connect to an XT60. While 10AWG will physically fit into the cup, you have to insert it dry/untinned in order to make it fit & you will never get proper penetration of solder through the wire afterward if you do that.

>> No.1824220

>>1824219
>solder cup connectors
I saw some that looked different to solder cups, but they also didn't look like crimpers either.
>you will never get proper penetration of solder through the wire afterward if you do that.
What if I soak it in flux?

>> No.1824222

>>1824220
>I saw some that looked different to solder cups, but they also didn't look like crimpers either.

I've been using XT for 4-5 years & have never seen anything other than solder cup. Maybe you found some weird unofficial derivative. This is probably also a good time to point out that the XT range is a proprietary/commercial design from Hextronik & you should only buy 'official' ones (branded TGY, AMASS or HXT) as the clones all use a worse nylon material that deforms far sooner with heat.

>What if I soak it in flux?

I think this is missing the point. If you genuinely need 10AWG then you shouldn't be using an XT60. That's kinda like asking if you can squeeze a 20 amp fuse into a 13 amp plug.

>> No.1824267

>>1824222
>a proprietary/commercial design
Um, what's the chance that my batteries come with legit connectors on them? If it won't interfere with the mechanical strength of the connectors I'm fine with normal nylon as I'm pretty confident in my ability to get in and out quickly with a temp-boosted soldering iron. I haven't looked at a construction diagram of the connector, but if the metal contacts can be snapped out of the plastic housing, soldered, then snapped back in again that completely avoids the heat-deformation issue. Some of the chinky connectors I see are 2-part clamshell ones (but front-back not side-side) which are a bit more likely to possess this behaviour. This is still all part of the prototyping and testing process, so for a more final design I may well go for legitimate connectors, or perhaps an entirely different connector.

XT60 is good to 60A continuous (go figure) so I don't think I'll be needing XT90.
>If you genuinely need 10AWG then you shouldn't be using an XT60
Well since XT60 is good to my current limit, then 12awg is too then, decision made.

>That's kinda like asking if you can squeeze a 20 amp fuse into a 13 amp plug
Perhaps so if the limiting factor is "the current you can put into it before the plastic housing loses strength", but I'd have thought that maybe the current limit would be instead conservatively set to "∆T = 80°C" or something, similar to the ampacity ratings for wire gauges.
>looks sheepishly at 10A DMM with 20A fuse in it

>> No.1824269

>>1824267
>Um, what's the chance that my batteries come with legit connectors on them?

As long as you don't buy them from shitty Ali sellers, they will be legit.

>if the metal contacts can be snapped out of the plastic housing

They can't.

>This is still all part of the prototyping and testing process, so for a more final design I may well go for legitimate connectors

Just don't order complete shit batteries from Ali & you'll get legit ones. If you're ordering loose connectors to make cables with, just spend a tiny bit more money for legit ones.

>> No.1824270

>>1824269
>complete shit batteries from Ali
>https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32976958978.html
By "complete shit" do you mean "from any ali seller at all" or just "from a shitty ali seller with no orders and bad feedback"? Is there a price per Ah I should be looking for to not get chinked?

>They can't
beans.

>> No.1824285

>>1823720
so a 1-lb RC plane has to be registered?

>> No.1824357

>>1824270
What country do you live in? Batteries are pretty much the only thing in this hobby where you're almost always better off buying domestic rather than direct from China. If we knew where you lived we could recommend some brands/shops.

>> No.1824429

>>1824285

Yes

>> No.1824441
File: 1.31 MB, 1688x2992, 1589899603140.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1824441

>>1824270
There are quality brands that are selling on aliexpress, such as CNHL, GNB, etc. Other quality brands that can be found from european and US retailers/online stores and warehouses would include Tattu, gensace, most stuff from Hobbyking, etc.
Generally CNHL batteries seem to be pretty popular nowadays, they last long without much degradation, and are generally one of the cheapest options/Wh.

>> No.1824577

>>1824357
New Zealand

>>1824441
I'll look into those brands, thanks

>> No.1824607

>>1824441
>CNHL
>GNB
Wow, now these guys are packing 100C as a standard. Never saw that coming. Now I'll be able to run two motors off the same two series batteries, which will last exactly one minute at maximum load. Or I would if they didn't come with XT60s and 20awg wire.

>> No.1824662

>>1824577
HobbyKing has an Australia warehouse that serves Australia & New Zealand. Batteries are literally the only thing I use them for, because at least here in the UK/EU they have by far the biggest selection of decent & reasonably priced batteries. In particular they have plenty of options for larger capacities like you're looking for, whereas many other popular brands these days only sell small packs for FPV quads.

>> No.1824971

Do you ever use more than 10 channels?

>> No.1824990

>>1824971
Yes. If you start flying bigger models & adding things like flaps. LEDs, droppers, cameras, gimbals, etc. that you want to control, the channels can quickly add up.

>> No.1825193

Hey so I'm new to /diy/. So I always had this dream of having a Weebo drone thingy, before drones and shit were a thing. Something will probably come out within the next 5-10 years that resembles it, but that's not /diy/ is it. I remember watching Flubber as a kid and thinking that fucking thing is cool as fuck, can't wait for the future when we'll all have personal robots.

I just want my floating AI helper man. Cool as fuck I don't care. What do I need to get this done so far I'm thinking

>learn some sort of coding (dunno what)
>electronics/engineering knowledge
>high IQ (will be a test)
>monies/time etc

Personally I really like the idea of developing my own AI drone. Any anons care to input suggestions on what to learn? Thanks!

>> No.1825197

>>1825193
A bit of aerodynamics because putting a thing like that in the air (that’s not a piece of foam mounted on a quad) will be a pain in the ass.
Also, why not skip the coding and put alexa on it?

>> No.1825202

>>1825197

I really wanted to try and make most of it from scratch, or at least quite near the bottom. Like a mark1 that can fly on it's own around the house. mk2 can interface with shit. etc etc

Always an option though.

>> No.1825382

>>1825193

The absolute state of the art tracking and inertial positioning systems are not at the point where they can accomplish the kind of integration you want.

Unless you are one of the world's leading experts on machine learning and have the assets of a Google, Sony, or Microsoft at your disposal what you are suggesting is impossible. Don't let that stop you from trying though - sometimes the journey is more important than the destination.

>> No.1825384

>>1825202

*also you should be aware that aircraft small enough to fly around a house are intrinsically inefficient and always will be. Rotorcraft efficiency scales with prop length in a non-linear fashion. Current models small enough to fly in, say, your kitchen will stay in the air for 2-4 minutes at most.

>> No.1825389

Does anywhere sell mini-mirco JST selection boxes? I keep pulling wires out and then waiting weeks to find replacements to arrive.

>> No.1825484
File: 123 KB, 640x960, Photo Jan 25, 8 42 21 AM.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1825484

>not into stunt flying, just want a flying video platform
>fried a Syma X5C board while trying to build a video whoop
>look for pre-built drones under $200
>just a sea of XPRO GPS 4K UHD quadcopter RTH Android DRONE Mobile FPV Heron OPTICAL FLOW USA SHIP
>if is says "4K" that means it records in 15 FPS over (8 FPS if it's only Wi-Fi) and it looks like 480p
>If it says "1080p" it's actually upscaled 720p, and that 720p is actually upscaled 480p

A good pre-built 3-axis gimbal unit only costs 85 RMB per piece wholesale, maybe 160RMB for really good one. And even the best current-gen smartphone sensors don't cost much more. If they just stopped their lying and threw a gimbal on those things, they'd be DJI killers.

>> No.1825523

>>1825484

If it's so easy why are you trying to rube goldberg a syma?

As it turns out the components aren't the problem. Integrating a sophisticated suite of highly specialized electronics and automation into a conzoomer-friendly package and associated app requires a variety of experts, all of whom are in extremely high global demand. Why would any party or group with the requisite skillsets sell you a cheap piece of shit when they can simply charge what their services are worth and pass the expense along to the conzoomer?

>> No.1825528

>>1825523
>If it's so easy why are you trying to rube goldberg a syma?
Think about this malformed logic
>zoomer
bless his heart, this man goes through life thinking in memes

Don't act like using a 60 cent 1080P module instead of a 44 cent upscaled-480P is some insurmountable task of engineering and mathematics that somehow warrants misleading advertising and chasing spec sheet numbers at the cost of real functionality.

chink shills can fuck off and pray to a Mao poster

>> No.1825529

>>1825528

Memes and shitposting aside, why DON'T you just get a Mini?

>> No.1825533

>>1825529
>CCP backdoor
I'll buy one and install hacked firmware if nothing actually worth using appears in the $200-350 bracket. Those no-name manufacturers literally have all the bits of technology they need, they just haven't put them together in a desirable combination yet.

>> No.1825571

>>1825533
>backdoor
>on a miniquad

>> No.1825649

>>1825571
>what is context
>what is capitalization

>> No.1825662

>>1825649
>muh context
it’s still the same, faggot

>> No.1825689

>>1825528
>>1825533
You are completely missing the importance of the software, the 'integration' between the hardware & the controls that the other anon tries to explain to you. Strapping a decent camera & gimbal to a drone doesn't magically make it a 'DJI killer'. You need to invest huge amounts of money in the software & integration, money that these 'no-name manufacturers' don't have.

As somebody who has spent a lot of time using DJI gear, both for fun & for work, the software & integration are IMO more important than the actual hardware.

>> No.1825880

>>1825484
Eachine cinecan
iFlight cinebee
Build your own and put a runcam on it

>> No.1826001

>>1825382
>>1825382

I have access to lots of Kongsberg stuff. Would probably be able to reverse engineer a lot of it. Most of the components I work with though are too large and cumbersome for a small drone though. But still, useful stuff for the project I think.

>> No.1826015
File: 500 KB, 1280x848, scamwich.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1826015

>>1825689
>You are completely missing the importance of the software, the 'integration' between the hardware & the controls that the other anon tries to explain to you. Strapping a decent camera & gimbal to a drone doesn't magically make it a 'DJI killer'. You need to invest huge amounts of money in the software & integration, money that these 'no-name manufacturers' don't have.

Oh fuck off. Stop pretending advertising as 1080p and really using a 480-upscaled chip instead is due to some kind of engineering constraint, and not a combination of "yeah, I'll lie to you for literally fractions of a USA cent" and "we don't need repeat customers, there's a sucker born every 5.66 seconds here" mentality in action.

Even if they were limited by technical expertise, just being honest would be enough to dispel foreigners' perception of them as lies condensed into multi-function house igniters. That whole society could easily jump over the US and Europe and all of their geographic neighbors is they even just slightly tone back their lying.

>> No.1826057

>>1826015
>Stop pretending advertising as 1080p and really using a 480-upscaled chip instead is due to some kind of engineering constraint

I'm not. What I'm saying is that even with a legit 1080p chip the product would still be complete garbage compared to the cheapest second-hand 3-year-old DJI. There is so much more to a flying camera than just specs on paper, but unfortunately you seem completely incapable of comprehending this.

>> No.1826070

>>1826001

Useful how?

>> No.1826149

My buddy offered me a DJI parrot bebop 2 for $300 USD. What's a fair price for this (USD)?

>> No.1826151

>>1826149
DJI & Parrot are completely different companies. A used Parrot Bebop 2 is maybe worth $100.

>> No.1826516

>>1804752

just cut down the props you have

>> No.1827454
File: 65 KB, 800x431, Caddx_ANT_FPV_camera.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1827454

Ran across this on my semi-weekly banggood trawl. 1200tvl, smart audio, 2grams, wide dynamic range and wide voltage range too.

They are $15 on pre-order, which is an absolute fucking steal.

>> No.1827458

>>1827454
I use a hhcam DVR FPV by DPEKKA

>> No.1827462

>>1827458

I focus mostly on ultralight micros, so I mostly just use the DVR on my HDOs. If I really want clean footage I'll fly something with a diamond VTX + microSD backpack, but I'll always resent that 2.5 gram payload.

>> No.1827472
File: 212 KB, 1380x1035, IMG_20200523_122918.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1827472

Bought a second EV800DM to turn into a smaller field monitor than my old LCD5802. I really need to learn Fusion360, attempting something like this in SketchUp is becoming a bit of a joke.

>>1827454
As usual with banggood/chinabrand stuff, ignore the pre-order discounts & wait for some real reviews to come out - don't just listen to reviews from YouTube shills who banggood pay to promote crap pre release.

>> No.1827482

>>1827454
3.7-18V is only 2-4S which isn't great. The more common 5-40V is way more useful as it covers 2-6S.

>> No.1827489

>>1827482

It's a whoop and toothpick camera.
As far as I know nobody is flying 6s on anything smaller than 4" props.

>>1827472

Fair

>> No.1827495

>>1827462
I got these in my landlord apartments , I do this cos to save on issues , Got low rents in from Govt , I need redress an they are troublesome , but , then you get some hot horny young ladies, an turn on the bedrooms cams .. we all all been there m8 , HAHAHAHA.. an when they get deported and you like Oh dear , an she screaming .. Im Going get out MY UK yer scum .. !! Classic ! Rewatching this is comedy Gold .. hahaha

>> No.1827502

>>1827489
A 3.7V low cutoff means it's no good for any 1S whoop/toothpick without a boost regulator.

>> No.1827503

>>1827495
The fuck are you on?

>> No.1827588

>>1827489
A linear regulator is a cheap and small addition, I wouldn't worry about overvoltage.

>>1827502
This is a greater issue, but here I was thinking that MOSFET gates usually want more than 3.2V anyhow, especially for motor drivers. Hence it would be preferable to use a 2S lipo with the same Wh rating for even the smallest RC vehicles. A higher voltage does mean having more windings on the motor stator, but this shouldn't be an issue at this scale.

>> No.1827602

Anyone know the voltage rating for this motor?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000761294938.html
I plan on using it for overvolting thermal experiments (water cooling experiments too), but the experiments will only work provided it's designed to work at a much lower voltage than my lipos.

>> No.1827605

>>1827588
>A linear regulator is a cheap and small addition

Nobody should be using linear regulators on quads anymore, especially not micro quads. It's 2020, we have switch mode.

>This is a greater issue, but here I was thinking that MOSFET gates usually want more than 3.2V anyhow, especially for motor drivers. Hence it would be preferable to use a 2S lipo with the same Wh rating for even the smallest RC vehicles.

Plenty of brushless whoops are 1S.

>> No.1827649

Ay this is cool just got my first quad thinking about upgrading to a 60a 6s and crashing with class.

Any famous you tubers on here?

>> No.1827725

For a micro 20x20 stack on a 850mah 3s with 1407 3600kv motors what kind of capacitor should I be running to filter out noise? I only have 1000uf 35v, 25v, 16v, and 470uf 16v right now.

>> No.1827764

>>1827605
>>1827588
>>1827502

lads it's a fookin whoop camera.
It's going to run just fine on 1s.

>>1827725

20x20 isn't a micro stack and nothing with that kind of payload is going to fly well or long on 850 MAh 3s. 1407s are nice motors but your build sounds pretty fucked up tbqh.

>> No.1827769

Question about drone transmitters and their thumb gimbals. Do these snap back to the center point when you release the stick. I know the throttle one does not? but what about the other one.

>> No.1827771

>>1827764
It's a micro stack. It's running on a 3" frame.

>> No.1827780
File: 211 KB, 1247x1500, 910biFRwEjL._AC_SL1500_.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1827780

Dear friends.
If i power this thing of a 2S lipo, will it make it not-alive? Thank so much for gracious answer.

>> No.1827784

>>1827771
>It's a micro stack.

No it fucking isn't.

>>1827769

Typically the throttle stick does not have a centering spring and the right stick does have a centering spring.

>> No.1827829

>>1827780
I wouldn’t risk it. Why not 1s?

>> No.1827902

>>1827829
well it takes 4xAA batteries for a comfy 6v, so i assume whatever voltage regulation circuitry is in there can survive a so a 8.4v max 2s battery. Im pretty sure a 1s lipo would be too smol.

>> No.1827929

>>1827764
>lads it's a fookin whoop camera.
>It's going to run just fine on 1s.

Again, only from a 5V regulator. If the specs are accurate it will simply brown out or switch off if run direct from 1S lipo voltage.

>> No.1828013

>>1827902
They make 6V regulators, usually the 5V ones are switchable between 5 and 6V. Just wire one of these in after the plug.

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-5a-8-26v-sbec-for-lipo.html?queryID=a208dd264f3bb2b5e2e287be67a9b2b7&objectID=16271&indexName=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products

>> No.1828036

drone & gone
never mind me. just thought about the pun.

>> No.1828046
File: 948 KB, 2560x1707, DSC04196.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1828046

So close to getting all the tolerances right. I have high hopes for revision 18 that's printing now.

>> No.1828087

I'm planning on running hoverboard motors for a build and the hoverboard had a 10s battery, will I burn out the motors if I run them on 12s?

>> No.1828100

>>1827605
>>1827588
>>1827502
You nibbas are arguing about voltage range on a fucking camera which accepts 5V that is supplied by literally any flight controller and VTX on the market, how autistic are you really?

>> No.1828615
File: 29 KB, 1000x1000, 1f491e8384_c6e397bc-5cf4-4c65-b14a-b5e97d005d2e_1800x1800.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1828615

Interesting new motor that just hit the market. 2004 stator, ~2000kv and ~3000kv versions.

But it weighs under 15 grams and accommodates T-mount props. So with the right frame, you are looking at potential for a very reasonable 5" build under 100 grams.

Which is fucking awesome.

>> No.1828636

>>1828615
How wide is it? I can't tell the scale. I really like the wide aspect ratio, but that Kv is too high for my purposes.

>> No.1828765

>>1828636
>2004 stator
>how wide is it

>> No.1828790

>>1828765
please be patient im new here
also wow that's really tiny

>> No.1828816

LiPo-HV or regular LiPo? Also, are there manufacturers that I should avoid?

>> No.1828839

>>1828046
looking good anon. What screen and what receiver?

>> No.1828840

>>1828816
>LiPo-HV or regular LiPo?

Regular LiPo

>Also, are there manufacturers that I should avoid?

Yes, scroll up a bit for some earlier discussion. Essentially, don't buy really cheap packs on Banggood or Ali as they're garbage.

Stuff from GensAce/GensPow (including Tattu) is good, most stuff from HobbyKing is fine (except maybe Zippy), CNHL are good, Acehe are good.

As above, batteries are the one thing you're better off trying to find in your country, rather than buying from China.

>> No.1828841
File: 1.01 MB, 2560x1707, DSC04201.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1828841

>>1828839
It's the internals of an Eachine EV800DM.

>> No.1828853

>>1828840
Thank you.
>As above, batteries are the one thing you're better off trying to find in your country, rather than buying from China.
The first batch I bought (eight 1s 520 mAh HV from GNB) was from my amazon, but now the same item costs 10€ more than what I paid for originally so I was looking for something else, also because they're starting to swell and don't hold much charge anymore now, so fuck GNB. I found non-HV 600 mAh crazepony, always on amazon, for a reasonable price, but I wanted to check first if they're any good.

Also, what are good EU e-shops?

>> No.1828861

>>1828853
Crazepony is a company whose sole purpose is to rebrand other companies' things to subsequently sell on Amazon at a higher price to cover Prime fees. Generally you're better off buying the exact same product elsewhere, unless you're happy to pay a slightly higher price to get the Crazepony branded version on Amazon because it includes Prime delivery & will arrive quicker.

For batteries in the EU, HobbyKing have by far the biggest selection of decent packs at decent prices. Some of their cheaper packs (like the basic blue-label Turnigy ones & the Nano-Tech range) sometimes get a bad rep, but this is generally from people using them way beyond their low-C rating & comparing them to much more expensive & higher-C rating packs.

If you're flying small 1S packs, take a look at MyLipo.de

>> No.1828872

>>1828861
Great, thank you.
>If you're flying small 1S packs
Yes, I own just a TinyHawk, and for the time being I won't switch to anything bigger than a whoop.

If I may ask, what's the deal with LiHV? My TinyHawk came bundled with a HV battery, so I guessed it was the right kind of battery for that drone, hence why I bought those GNB.

>> No.1828891

>>1828872
Tiny 1S stuff is really the only place where HV is actually a benefit, because you get a lot more sag on such small single cell packs than bigger stuff. This is why you'll see lots of people using HV for Whoops/TinyHawks, but pretty much nobody uses HV for bigger stuff.

>> No.1828901

>>1828891
I see, thanks. I assume the C-rating is also important: the stock battery has a 80C/160C (if I understand correctly it means that, since it's rated at 450mAh, it can safely discharge at constant 80*0,45 amps; don't know the 160 what it means, but I guess it's the peak value). All batteries I can find around have a much, much lower rating, and I fear that would overstress the battery when the drone tries to draw more current than the battery can give. Is this right or am I missing something?

>> No.1828907

>>1828901
I doubt the stock battery is really 80/160C. Take a look for some comparisons from reputable sources of the different options.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cv-Y6pmV7A8

>> No.1828918

>>1828907
Well, the stock battery is the Emax 450mAh, which is a top pick of the video. Also, excellent channel, thanks.

>> No.1829009

>>1828853
GNB's are generally good quality packs as well. You just have to take into account that pretty much all 1S packs are relatively short lived due to the insane load they are subjected to, relative to higher voltage packs.

>> No.1829080
File: 1.55 MB, 2560x1707, EV800DM_converstion.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1829080

Finally got the tolerances on the buttons etc. just right. Now I really have to learn a proper CAD package.

>> No.1829094
File: 96 KB, 1280x720, goggles.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1829094

>>1797664
What are the best FPV goggles currently? Ideally I'd like to spend under $500, so I was thinking about buying Fatshark HDOs or HDO2s on ebay, but I've heard the DJI digital goggles are replacing analog goggles.

>> No.1829095

>>1829080
That looks great. Have you considered adding a clip or place to secure the battery? Maybe an extended bottom, with a 3mm hole in the bottom side where you can add "extensions" such as a 3d printed battery pack case.

>> No.1829119

>>1829094
For somebody who is just getting into the hobby & doesn't already have a bunch of legacy gear, then the DJI system should be a serious consideration. It still costs substantially more per model than analogue & will continue to do so for quite some time, but the difference between the DJI digital system & even the best analogue setup is pretty much night & day.

>>1829095
I definitely need to keep working on the design to add some convenient way of standing it at a ~45 degree angle & maybe to easily attach it to a transmitter or tripod etc. But at the same time I want to keep it as small/slim as it is now, so I can literally put it in my pocket for Tiny Whoops in the pub. So I'll need to devise some sort of removable accessory mount system I guess?

>> No.1829164

I stupidly ordered a CCW motor when I needed a CW motor. I can just change the spin direction with BLheli, right?

>> No.1829216

>>1829164
For brushless motors the only difference between CW & CCW is the direction of the thread on the shaft. As long as you have the appropriate direction nyloc nut you can just swap the direction in blheli.

>> No.1829242

>>1829094

Keep in mind that if you get HDOs you will also need a module, which is another 50-200 - as well as antennas.

The DJI digital solution is definitely a nice bit of kit, but it is first-generation. The air unit is fine for 5"+ props but if you want to fly anything smaller the weight penalty is a bit much and you are better off with analog equipment.

>> No.1829291

Guys I'm at a complete loss and need some ideas. I have this little tyro and it refuses to co-operate. It just spins wildly out of control at any level of throttle. So far...

> In betaflight motor controls, all the motors power correctly with computer input throttle
> All motors are spinning the correct way
> Motors are mapped correctly
> FC is facing the right direction
> I've switched what I thought was the weaker motor out, that's not it.
> I've calibrated the accelerometer in betaflight
> I haven't fucked with custom motor mixes

To me, since it works fine with betaflight controlling it, it seems like an accelerometer issue. Is it firmware? Any ideas?!

>> No.1829341

>>1829291

Do you have your props oriented correctly?

>> No.1829342

>>1829291

If you power up your TX with the FC connected to betaflight are your channels doing anything weird?

>> No.1829352

>>1829342
Nope, all seem fine. Stable as can be.

>> No.1829353

>>1829341
Yup, checked them all twice now at this stage. Bit of chip damage on the tip when it smashed into the marble, but nothing catastrophic.

>> No.1829354

>>1797664
thinking about either getting a quadcopter or an rc helicopter. which should i get? i was either looking at dj mavic mini the $300 one or a sab helicopter 280. which is easier to repair and fly? thank you

>> No.1829355

>>1829352

Any kind of funky stuff going on with your trim? Channels mapped correctly?

>> No.1829361

>>1829355
Trim is at 0 everywhere. The channels seem correct as far as I can tell, I turned it on with betaflight connected and monitored the yaw, pitch and roll. They all responded as expected.

With that said, I just connected it like above with props on and applied throttle (yes I know lol). Three of the motors are even, the other not. It's a bit random, kinda like the accelerometer is off or something?

>> No.1829362

>>1829354

The dji mini is a great package. Repairability is a mixed bag; if you break a prop or dent a motor repairs are cheap and easy. If you manage to damage the airframe or the internal electronics you are probably going to be sending it in for service.

Almost anything else is going to be better for flying acro though. The mini is emphatically not a freestyle machine.

>> No.1829364

>>1829361

What are your modes?

>> No.1829377

>>1829364
Angle (default), horizon and acro trainer

>> No.1829382

>>1829377

Maybe try clearing those and setting them up from scratch. Also might want to flash your ESCs

>> No.1829533

>>1829354
A Mavic Mini & a RC heli are two completely different things. What is it that you actually want to do?

>> No.1829686

Sorry if this is a silly question, but would it be feasible to use a drone that functions or launches a glider?

>> No.1829691

>>1829686

Totally feasible. Even easy.

But also pointless unless you have some kind of extremely specific mission in mind that can't be accomplished by one platform or the other independently.

>> No.1829720

>>1829686
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYH1JtLUi78

>> No.1829848

>>1829720
How to launch a guided missile 101

desu I'm surprised nobody has dropped shotgun shells from a drone with vanes to guide it straight and a nail to set off the blasting cap

>> No.1829852

Has anyone tried the hall effect gimbals. I've used hall effect sensors and the reading they give is in no way stable.

>> No.1829855

>>1829848
>guided missile 101
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kGkCDwpJciU

>> No.1829894

>>1829855
You seem intent on giving me a boner

>> No.1829895

>>1829382
Sorry, was late the other night.

Flashed it to MATEKF411 but one of the earlier 3.5 versions instead of the 4.X. Reset most settings. Didn't flash the ESCs. It seems to be okayish now, stable enough. Thanks anon.

>> No.1829948

>>1825484
or anon you could just buy this cine whoop for cheap, assuming you have batteries, a tx, lipo charger, FPV goggles, micro sd card, and you know how to fly a quadcopter.

https://www.hglrc.com/products/hglrc-sector132-3-4s-fpv-racing-drone-4k-caddx-tarsier-bnf-pnp?variant=31221695905850

>> No.1829977

>>1829848

The vectors of potential disaster are so obvious and so varied that it is miraculous there haven't been any incidents of the type you describe. It seems impossible that our hobby has just gotten that lucky at random, so most likely there is some degree of surveillance of RC hobby people and purchases.

I had some distant acquaintances in the hobby rocketry community so I know for a fact that there are some protections in place for the rocketry guys - you can't just start mucking around with big tubes of solid fuel without drawing attention.

>> No.1830053

>>1829691
>>1829720
Thank you RCG
I was concerned that launching a glider from a stationary airborne platform would present wind speed issues.

My primary interest is that you can make a one way delivery without risking the drone itself, and that the drone can easily make repeated launches.

>>1829848
Isreal is way ahead on this, they have been using drones to drop mortars for years, and now are using drones at unit level for situational awareness, perimeter defense and for dropping guided munition
we're lucky terrorists don't study STEM

>> No.1830058

>>1829855
You can see how it would have been improved if the wings deployed at peak altitude.
He's basically put a cruise missile into a MANPAD platform- whereas his vehicle would have much greater range if launched from a drone platform; and to launch a delayed guidance vehicle from the MANPAD

>> No.1830059

>>1829977
It's the same as hacking, states see the potential to employ the mavericks and would rather just watch and learn.
SWIM has several friends in defense who got the job after being approached by defense- many hobbyists don't recognize the significance of what they are working on.

>> No.1830091

>>1830059

I guess I should finally tell DARPA about my zero-point energy quad huh

>> No.1830145

>>1830091
The interest comes more from the flexibility of what hobbyists make.
If amateurs can make these there's a good chance they are very cost effective.
The other aspect is the realistic threat posed by Insurgent hobbyists
...Amateurs also tend not to take out patents, which is a huge deal because defense always gets put over a barrel over patent issues.
Anyway I won't shit up /diy/ with this

>> No.1830244

>>1830145

Oh, it is absolutely relevant. Interesting to think about and discuss, as well.

>> No.1830385
File: 3.12 MB, 4608x3456, IMG_20200527_105627.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1830385

>>1797664
I left the controller for this bad boy a thousand miles away so I'm hoping to turn it into a starter level fpv drone. motor's good, props are good, battery's on the small side but good. Need to do some research and find a small control chip and controller etc.

Preferably looking for things that can then be transferred into something nice once I've learned not to crash!

>> No.1830410

>>1830385

Not worth it.
Brushed motors mean a brushed flight controller, which will not transfer to a brushless quad at all.

Just buy a toothpick-class quad. You'll spend about the same as it would take to do anything to that toy drone.

Good options:

eeachine red devil
emax tinyhawk II freestyle
betafpv HX100 SE
Sailfly-x
Happymodel Larva

You can probably find one or more of these on sale for ~$85 and you will be much better off.

>> No.1830419

>>1830385

*also the fact that it has those gear reductions between the motors and the prop diveshafts means that a conventional flight controller will probably never work quite right. I haven't tried it but I know enough to know how messy that could get while trying to tune for stable flight.

>> No.1830545

>>1830145
>Anyway I won't shit up /diy/ with this
Please do, I'm enjoying reading your autism. Any examples of these patents?

>> No.1830551

>>1830545

Not that guy but I've noticed a few interesting laser related patents vanish into black budget programs over the years.

As far as drone stuff goes, I know the F-35 program includes a lot of interesting command & control stuff for UAVs, the intent of which must be eventual total integration. It's a lot less risky to put your active radar systems on UAVs in the engagement airspace and have them relay data to your attack aircraft, for example.

>> No.1830641

What's the best FPV drone around the $100 price point? Is it possible to get an actual HD camera on something for that much?

>> No.1830642

>>1830641
Look at the Tyros, maybe a Tyro99. Pretty decent. Order from banggood.

>> No.1830648

>>1830641

There is no way to get a complete fpv setup at that price point.

In addition to goggles and aircraft you also need a transmitter and battery charger and often a few other odds & ends. Might be able to squeeze in under $200 or a bit less but your goggles are going to be trash.

No, it is not possible to get HD real time in that price range and also probably not possible to get HD dvr.

>> No.1830854

Going through a relatives box of unused parts, there is a few transmitters, most are 4-channel, but there are a couple of 6-channel -- which is better between a
>Esky ET6I
>Storm ST-06TX
for use with a drone? I haven't done anything with drones, but if these are feasible I might get a cheap one.

>> No.1830915

>>1830854

Possibly feasible but probably not worth the trouble. Definitely not worth it if they don't come with receivers. The receivers in question are not designed for use with quads so it could be somewhere between annoying and impossible to get them working.

>> No.1830975

>>1830915
Yeah, they come with receivers -- thanks for the heads up.

>> No.1831139

How feasible is it to upgrade the camera on a consumer drone? I'm capable of doing it from a technical point of view but I'm more asking in terms of how much space would they have in the camera housing vs. the kind of cameras that I could drop in there

>> No.1831194

Does anyone by any chance have an Eachine E58 so they could weigh one of the batteries for me?

>> No.1831214

>>1831139
That really depends upon what sort of consumer drone you're talking about. Trying to upgrade the camera on something like a DJI drone would be near impossible, because you'd have to reverse engineer so many proprietary & obfuscated interfaces (both hardware & software).

>> No.1831240

I would just like to point out that all of these people wanting to "upgrade" their toy drones is another good reason to stop recommending the syma to people.

>> No.1831279

>>1831240
?

>> No.1831287

>>1831279
toy grade drones like the Syma are meant to be a starter drone to see if you even like flying a drone. They're not meant to be hacked apart and upgraded, the hardware is just not good enough to be worth the effort. A toothpick drone with brushless motors or a decent tiny whoop are the smallest things worth replacing/upgrading components on.

>> No.1831343

>>1831240
The Syma is less than $26.50 with literally everything you need. It doesn't matter if it can't be 'upgraded'. It's a minimal investment to see if you even like the hobby before spending more than beer money.

>> No.1831346

>>1831287

Even then pretty debatable. Most "upgrades" add weight and so actually become downgrades when we're talking whoops and picks. A 1 gram addition represents significant loss of performance.

>> No.1831378
File: 116 KB, 899x1599, f912cd06-5ecd-4661-9000-9c4e5d1e19d3.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1831378

Each of the 4 wires on top goes to an individual ESC. The power in (yellow tape) is 6V. Do I need to power each channel individually? One motor is beeping at me and I'm wondering is this the cause

>> No.1831430

>>1831346
for "upgrades" to whoops and toothpicks, i mean swapping for better components as they come out.

>> No.1831467

>>1831343

It's not an "investment"
It's money you have thrown into the garbage whether you find out you enjoy the hobby or not.