/diy/ - Do It Yourself

What D&D pieces should I print in green PLA? I just printed a crocodile warrior and now I'm printing a forest dragon

>>1788043
Terrain

Has anyone here experimented with many brands of filament? I can find no-name chinese rolls for 25aud, but at the same time also find eSun for 25aud and am just curious how much better it is. And then you start to get into stuff like prusament, hatchbox, and polymaker, which is at least twice as expensive as eSun and other cheap rolls. There wouldn't happen to be a filament buying guide of any sort would there?

>>1788062
I just use inland since they have it at micro center. 15 usd and no problems whatsoever

>>1788062

eSun, I used a few rolls of OD green, no complaints.

Hatchbox, I like the wood PLA. I had a lot of adhesion problems with a black roll on my first printer with a glass bed though.

Prusament, yeah it's good.

Paramount 3d, they make a lot of nice colors.

Amazon (changed to Overture now, I think), PLA+ is good. PETG was always making my extruder slip in my old MP Select+, but works fine in the Prusas.

TTTY3d, Silk filaments look great, thickness tolerance is a bit wacky and it really hates humidity

Sunlu, I don't know, I ordered some ABS and PLA on a suggestion last thread, but I haven't used it yet.

>>1788041
I think it came out pretty nicely. Getting the filter tomorrow

Printing some Prusa face shields for my local hospital. Do you know how to speed it up without compromising them?

Also, are microfiber cloths be used as filters?

>>1788172
Dont print them, injection molding or cutting is the way to go.

>>1788174
Unfortunately i don't have a injection molding machine at my disposal except printer and filament. About cutting - will require material and viable layout.

Is E3D's nozzle X actually any good for abrasives?
Gonna be printing a good amount of wood pla in the future, should I get one or a regular hardened steel nozzle?

>>1788176
Outside of a ruby tipped nozzle it's the best you can get for abrasives right now.

>>1788175
A friend wanted to print masks, but he soon realized its not viable. Say 1 mask per hour if you are pushing your printer, thats not many.
We cut 10-15 mm thick polyethylene (super durable stuff) on a water-jet which is still not the best but we managed to turn out 100masks in 10 hours. They barely had to pay for materials after they mentioned they were doing masks.

So unless you have a lot of printers available like nerf-anon, its not really productive. I didnt want to poopoo your effort its still a good thing you are doing, but asking around and helping others in different ways might have larger impact.

>>1788181
>We cut 10-15 mm thick polyethylene (super durable stuff) on a water-jet which is still not the best but we managed to turn out 100masks in 10 hours.
What design? Not him but my univ has a waterjetcutter that's sitting idle right now.

>>1788181
I know it's not productive. I was thinking of modifying my Ender to a laser cutter, since 8 masks in 2 days is, well monkey's business. It sits metaphorically on a typewriter, so it's not completely useless, just inefficient and efficiency is what i'm searching for, with limited resources.

>>1788177
I'm curious, how often do ruby nozzles wear out? Is it a mostly one-time investment that will last for ages, or does it still need to be replaced regularly? Because $60 for a nozzle that will not wear out in the foreseeable future, not only removing the need for maintenance or worrying about what materials you print but also removing the need to even worry and check how its health is doing, doesn't sound like a very bad investment if you plan on printing abrasive stuff every now and then.

>>1788204
At a certain filament manufacturer where I did my internship we had some ruby nozzles and we did not detect wear after 5KG of carbon filled nylon. Might wear eventually, but not that we noticed under a microscope within that range - and 5kg of CF-nylon is more expensive than the nozzle.
They still clog though, so you might have to take them out, and if you only have one machine with one nozzle you're limited to one nozzle size at a time.

Hey guys I was wondering if I can get some help on what im fucking up with my print,

I am building a microdrone, and I need to print really small fucking flat washers, in
>pic related
the first one (far right obviously) came out pretty good, but as I try to print 2 others, they get progressively worse. My settings/filament I use were these
>hatchbox pla 1.75 white
>creality ender 3
>200C tool, 60C bed
>.1mm layer height
>print speed? I never mess with that so IDK default I guess?

>>1788280
Looks like adhesion problems to me.
Personally, I'd try increasing the first layer temperature. I use 230/70 for my first layer.
Alternatively, have you tried printing them on a raft?

>>1788280
I have found the following to be helpful with printing tiny parts onto glass:

Before you even start thinking of slicing:
0. Get your bed leveled properly and zero your nozzle height
In cura settings:
1. Enable optimize wall printing order
2. Combing mode: Not in skin
3. Brim: 3 or 4 lines, not skirt
4. I've enabled Z-hop by 0.5mm but am not sure how much it is contributing to success

Your parts are very small. Consider adding a delay between layers to allow parts to cool slightly.
You also need to tune your retractions, you have too much stringing.

>>1788322
I don't think a brim is strictly necessary, as long as one's bed is freshly cleaned for best adhesion. I printed a series of 4mmx4mm squares last night, and they all stuck fine.

A spider benchy mech made out of resin.

>>1788325

Could I get a better result than this on Ender 3 pro?

>>1788337
I’m retarded, dont know why it flipped the picture.

>>1788339
It's because cameras don't actually rotate the actual image but instead put an instruction for image viewers to rotate it in the metadata (because rotating is a lossy operation).
But 4chan deletes all metadata of every uploaded image.

>>1788325
>not posable

>>1788337
>>1788339
what profile are you using? try using the Fat Dragon Games profile if you haven't already

>>1788337
Not really, you could get better results by adjusting your settings to reduce the zits, but other than that, that's about as good as you are going to get on any FDM machine.

>>1788337
>>1788339
STL?

>>1788348
A FDG print is going as we speak but with that profile I’ve already had 2 failed prints where it broke a part and then tore the print off the bed

>>1788350
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3138292

>>1788324
Largely depends on bed cleanliness and what you're printing with. You're right that if you have good plastic you shouldn't have issues, but I've had trouble with certain brands and for the most part just leave the brim since removing it is trivial.

>>1788351
add z hop in the settings and see if that helps.

>>1788354
this is what happens. it starts weirdly breaking and stringing. (this is the FDM profile)

>>1788355
do you have that issue using the built in profiles from Cura?

>>1788356
no the build in ones work fine

>>1788339
What layer height are you printing at?
The back of that cape looks pretty poor.

>>1788360
Then I would stick with the built in highest quality setting, but change the resolution from .12 to .08

>>1788372
ok will give it a try thanks

>>1788362
that was at 0.05

>>1788376
always work in .04 increments on the ender 3. I don't know if you can print at .04 layer height, but .08, .12, .16, .2, .24, .28, and .32 are what you want to use

>>1788376
Weird, the filament lines shouldn't be so clearly visible.
It printed standing upright like that, right? Were there any supports on the top surface of the cape for any reason? The surface looks a lot more rough than it should for regular printing.

>>1788381
I printed it slightly tilted backwards thats why probably

>>1788383
Even still, unless the tilt required you to add supports to the top surface of the cape, I don't think it should look that bad.
I printed a figurine at 0.1mm on my Ender 3 a while ago and, while the overhangs do look a little rough, all of the sides and top surfaces are perfectly smooth. This was back when I was using Creality's shitty built-in slicer, too.
I'm not sure exactly what your problem is, but I'm confident in saying that you have some sort of problem with your print settings.

>>1788109
What filter material will you be using? that's a really small area for filter material.

>>1788280
Should be a really simple and easy print, no idea how your machine can't handle it.
Should have bought a Prusa i guess.

>>1788386
yeah I'll keep testing it out and see if I can find a good profile for me

>>1788322
Thanks for the advice anon, i made some adjustments and they turned out alot better.

>>1788394
Those still look like shit though, you should obviously increase layer time, the default layer time is incorrect it seems.

>>1788062
>>1788093
I have tried Creozone (aliexpress) brand PLA and PETG, and both had no complaints. I have a roll of their ABS as well, but haven't tried it yet.

>>1788396
Really think they look like shit? Hmm I always assumed 3d prints would come out decent but not perfect. My layer time is 10s at the moment, I never messed with it so Im not sure how much I should increase it.

>>1788389
Prusa is out of my price range at the moment, and ender 3 is perfect for my needs, I don't use it alot but enough to where I didn't regret purchasing it.

Every once in a while when moving the microSD from my Ender 3 to my PC and back, something will fuck up and the printer won't be able to read the card, then I'll put it back in my PC and it won't be able to read the card either and I'll have to reformat it.
It's really a hassle. Anyone know why this happens? Is it the fault of the printer or the chinesium microSD that came with it?

>>1788394
They look better for sure but still could be improved as other anon stated. Increasing dwell time between layers (and ideally having the dwell be somewhere else other than the parts to get the nozzle away from them) could help. Changing nozzle temp may help too, slightly lower than what you have now.

From your skirt's appearance, your initial layer looks too thin like the nozzle is jammed up against the bed. Your skirt should not be transparent like that. I suggest adjusting either bed leveling or z-probe offset if you are using a probe. Measure the skirt in several places and verify that it comes out to be what your initial layer thickness is supposed to be. If it doesn't, adjust until it is. You're not using any bed adhesion stuff like glue or hairspray, right?

>>1788408
pump it up to 20s

>>1788415
Yea I spent good 20 minutes leveling my bed and when I saw the skirt like that, I initially thought I had my bed uneven in some parts. I'll re level it again.

>>1788425
>pump it up to 20s
Thanks, I'll try that.

Whats the best way to clean off dried filament from a hotend, can I soak it in isopropyl alcohol?
I did try heating it up and cleaning it off but it almost caught on fire, so im not doing that again

>>1788427
Heat it up, wipe with some sort of cloth or something
>I did try heating it up and cleaning it off but it almost caught on fire
i don't believe you

>>1788427
>it almost caught fire
how many extra chromosomes do you have?

>>1788347
I tell you from experience that making things in that scale poseable from resin is a nightmare

>>1788433
there was dried up filament that was touching the heating element, thus making the filament smoke

I designed belt tensioner for a project of mine (think pulley belt). This is done by allowing to change the position of the ball bearing the belt is wrapped around (pic related). A screw is going straight through the ball bearing and by tensioning it you can "clamp" the ball bearing in place. So I insert the bearing into the structure and start screwing into it. This is problematic, because now I somehow have to hold the core of the ball bearing tight to allow me to screw into it, but I only have access to the outer layer, which is useless. Any ideas on how to change my design and make it work? I need the second side because otherwise it's not stable enough by the way. I know that my current design is dumb, bit I don't know a good way to do it.

>>1788437
Washer between the bearing and printed part should give it enough thickness to be pinched between the "arms", while still letting it slide around

>>1788337
google airbrush nozzle
still room for improvement

>>1788437
How about a nut on the other side?
Plus washers as the previous anon said

>>1788434
Yeah I'm just taking the piss. Articulated stuff is a pain in general as far as I'm aware. Is resin worse than FDM?

>>1788436
smoke =/= fire

>>1788449
It's actually better than FDM in some aspects. Sliding pieces and tubes are great since they're actually _round_, but ball joints are pretty brittle and wear down fast, usually leaving some chalky white powder which gums it up.

>>1788388
I ended up buying a MERV 13 rated air filter and just cutting it to size.

>>1788413
I've had similar problems with my computer saying the card has a problem and needs to be repaired (never had to reformat it though).
I've heard it's the fault of the shitty SD card that comes with it, but I've also had problems with other SD cards. The best I can tell is that it results when the card is not ejected properly (which on the ender 3 would mean turning it off).

>>1788467
The ender has a menu option to "change the SD card", there's no feedback when you select it but I've used it a few times and the filesystem didn't get corrupted, so either it unmounts it or I've just been getting consistently lucky.

>>1788434
Replace the male joints with holes and just pin the joints through both holes with spring pins. Even thermoplastics probably won't stand up at the scale for that benchy above

Just finished this pcb clamp/microscope holder. Only materials are 4x 200x8mm rods, 4x 4x5mm threaded inserts 4x 30mm 3M screws. I want to sell it on Cults 3D because I could use some money to prepare for the situation right now. You think I'll get anything for it? Do you sell anything in Cults? Any tips? Thx

Just finished this pcb clamp/microscope holder. Only materials are 4x 200x8mm rods, 4x 4x5mm threaded inserts 4x 30mm 3M screws. I want to sell it on Cults 3D because I could use some money to prepare for the situation right now. You think I'll get anything for it? Do you sell anything in Cults? Any tips? Thx

>>1788505
Another pic. Btw if you want the files they're here: a360.co/3arsg7F

>>1788505
where you get them boxes

>>1788505
These microscopes are such garbage.
10 bucks more buys you a much much better one.

>>1788513
Got them from a local asian store many years ago. I'm kinda mad I did because now I want more and can't find them. Sorry.
>>1788514
Got a link? They all seem the same, but for soldering they're ok. They can be zoomed in for far away leaving a nice gap to work.

>>1788505
Your board clamping setup isn't too good imo, you've got loads of unnecessary material everywhere.

>>1788521
They're also a generic Chinese thing.
But these search terms work pretty well:
https://www.aliexpress.com/af/.html?SearchText=usb+microscope+2MP+500x+inspection

>>1788469
My best results are from selecting that option, ejecting the SD card, then selecting it again so that it changes to "Init SD card" and then selecting that when I put the SD card back in.
That worked well for a while up until this most recent time.

Can someone help me identify this filament? I have no idea what it could be, nor how old it even is. It's a little bit bronze/metallic in appearance, reasonably flexible (but it's probably not intended to be, it's a little crumbly if I do it a lot), very soft, and not electrically conductive. It feels like it's about the same density as ABS/PLA, and the spool is much smaller than usual. There's not a single label on it so I have absolutely no info to go off of.

Reposting because I didn't notice the bump limit.
>Just printed one of these:
>https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-newshield-visiere-anti-eclaboussures-covid19-115247
>It came out alright, but feels kinda fragile (I only print stuff out of PLA at the moment).
>Is there a consensus on models for face shields, yet?

>>1788639
>face shields
just buy a gp5 off ebay or something

>>1788640
Printing it for family doctor to evaluate. I've got a proper half mask and goggles.

Help anons, is this too much? is this overkill? This is my first time making supports and I don't want to mess up.

I use anycubic eco resin in whats like a basement in my house but no windows to vent. Am I going to die?

>>1788654
just print it upright flat on the bed

>>1788633
Burn a piece and see how it smells.

A benchy on a bench on a benchy.

>>1788639
don't bother with this. UCLA nixed the Prusa RC2 because of gaps in the visor.
https://docs.library.ucla.edu/display/LSD/COVID-19+Response%3A+3D+Printing+PPE+Equipment

>>1788043
Wood Elf bases. Isn't the old slime creature green?

>>1788688
What even is the point of printing a benchy on an SLA?
Its designed to test FDM parameters.

>>1788639
>no positive affixation of the PVC, just a push fit
>thin walled
Yeah, it probably is very fragile. Just start printing the prusa face shield.

>>1788639
Try this one anon.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4233193

>>1788337
ok this is my most recent print compared to my first print I’m really close to being happy with the outcome. (this is without cleaning the model)

>>1788793
the only problem I’m still having is that the underside of some parts has this weird pattern going. anyone have any advice for this?

How does milled MDF compare to 3d printed ABS/PETG for 3d printer frame parts like corner pieces, braces, etc?

>>1788337
>>1788793
>>1788794

Ender 3 Pro wouldn't make a difference here.
You could get better with further tweaking but this comes at a questionable effort. I'd use a .3 or even .2 nozzle for this.

What you are really looking for is a resin printer. They will give you 10x better print results for this kind of stuff.

>>1788793
>>1788794
Looking good, what did you tweak?
As for the underside, there's really not much you can do. You can get some increase in quality by modding your printer with a well designed duct and a 5015 blower fan, but there will always be artefacts when printing overhangs.

>>1788793
What were your support settings BTW? I want to try printing that on my modded CR-10S.

>>1788809
I'm saying I have an Ender 3 pro. Gonna try with a smaller nozzle. I dont need a resin for what I actually need the printer for, the models are just something I mess around with.
>>1788817
I added the Z hop and changed the support which actually fixed all the problems

>>1788820
https://youtu.be/QaE7YPvh4E8?t=62

I did what he did in this video

>>1788793
>>1788838
This is weird weird, my prints - also Ender 3 Pro - generally look like the one on the right, and I'm using mostly default cura settings (with higher temperature because Sunlu says their special snowflake PLA needs 230C), without any tweaks or mods - just brainlet assemble printer, plug in, slice on default, and go. Is there seriously this much variation in chink printer quality? That's crazy.

>>1788843
If they had decent QC, they wouldn't be so cheap.

>>1788633
If it snaps like a uncooked spaghetti it's PLA.
PLA also has a distinctive burn smell like he suggested
>>1788678

If you can bend it 180° without snapping it's propably PETG

TPU is like a al dente cooked spaghetti

If it has a strong plastic smell during printing its propably ABS

Make a mystery benchy with it

>>1788633
ABS burns with a yellow flame plus a lot of black soot, has a plasticy smell
PLA burns blueish no or very little soot (both depends on the type), has a sweet smell.

>>1788843
well sure I could just use the deafult settings and get results that are fine but I'm trying to maximize what the printer can do

>print part once perfectly fine
>want to make another one, and it catches the nozzle and rips off the bed twice in a row at the exact same layer
the fuck

What's with the slow death of thingiverse? Trying to download https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2757810 just gives me a 404.

>>1788871

Much of the internet is shitting itself right now. Even so Thingiverse was a trainwreck before, so far the redesign has been an improvement.

>>1788871
I wouldn't bother with that one, Printed drag chains are always shit. They either don't hold together properly or they don't flex properly and they always end up wearing away the wire sheath.
If you're going to use something like that, modify the design to accept an off the shelf drag chain.

>>1788871
Whats happening to thingiverse is beyond our understanding...

How do you get downloads without any views??
How do you even fuck up the backed so much? Not to mention the speed...

>>1788874
In regards to software engineering with their redesign their nonfunctional reqs have been met, but their functional reqs have not. Their layout may have been improved, but the thing as a whole is kinda broken.
>>1788875
I use the one by the same guy for the Y axis and I haven't had any issues. There's plenty of wiggle room so the sheath doesn't get damaged as far as I can tell after ~100h of printing.
>>1788880
That really looks like they've just combined downloads and speeds in that graph, weird.

>>1788890
>downloads and speeds
That's a fascinating lapsus

>>1788794
Are you referring to the ripple-like effect?
I believe that's due to the filament drooping slightly while being printed into open air. There's not much you can do about that except playing around with the support settings, printing the model in a different orientation, or both.

>>1788794
>>1788933
By the way, there's a Cura plugin that can automatically rotate a model to minimize the number of overhangs that require support. I've never personally used it, though.

>>1788933
Part cooling. Stock cooler on the ender 3 or CR-10 isn't very good for fine detail. The blower is weak and the duct not focused close enough.

>>1788726
I have a very large head, so it fits mine just fine, but I feel like the flex to conform to a smaller head would be too much for it.
>>1788843
A lot of it comes down to how well you assemble it. It's worth taking the time to make sure everything is nice and square, that belts are tight and that the springs under the bed are as stiff as you can have them while keeping everything level (I recommend getting those orange die springs and some wingnuts to act as lock nuts under the knobs).
>>1788763
I like the design on that one. I'll print it up.
>>1788699
That was one of my concerns, as well, though I figured it was a moot point if the thing snaps on day 1.

>>1788851
It feels more like an old, worn leather shoelace than anything, really. It's way more flexible than regular filaments, not just "a little bendier".

Definitely not TPU, this doesn't stretch at all and is more likely to tear if I pull on it much.

>>1788855
I'll give it a burn test if nothing else, but I don't think it'll provide any useful info other than "it's not PLA or ABS".

>>1788880
Also if I use the account dropdown after logging in to view like my collections, I get an unauthorized error
They just hired some frontend guys but I think the backend is an unrecoverable mass of indian spaghetti

>>1788109

>>1788109
>>1789034
i hope those are properly valved or else you'll die from the co2

>>1789040
Not him but those aren't the type that need to be valved. The exhaled air escapes along the rim of the mask as well as some being filtered out the front. The valved ones are meant to provide a tight seal to the face which would stop gas escaping/entering through the perimeter and as such would build up stagnant, exhaled air inside the mask if not vented away properly

>>1789042
if there isn't a seal, the inhaled air with enter through the rim before pushing it's way through a filter. fabric masks can at least capture droplets of moisture, these 3d printed ones don't provide any actual protection

>>1789040
CO is the silent killer
CO2 will make your body panic

>>1789045
not necessarily. Think of the suction cups you stick to tiles; when you press down, you push out all the air (exhale), and when you try to pull it off, it forms a seal (inhale). Same goes here, you create negative pressure while breathing in and your skin forms a seal with the edge if it's not too far away. this all goes out the window if you're e.g. talking or don't have a face shape that conforms to the mask, or if your face is so slim/bony that there's no "cushion" for it to work with

>>1789040
this meme needs to fucking stop, that ethot is retarded

>>1789047
panic and make you take off the mask, making it useless
>>1789052
there's a reason why ventilators and masks need to be properly fitted, any gaps will cause a failure in being fully effective

>>1789042
>The exhaled air escapes along the rim of the mask
Then it's ineffective as a mask. It needs a check valve.

>>1788928
*views, sorry. Was dead tired when posting that...

CURA doesn't have a setting for carbon fiber PC. What do I use?

The brand is priline, I don't see that either.

Up to this point I've only used the generic PLA setting but I want to make something a bit stronger.

>>1788763
So, I finished printing it. It definitely is better than the previous one, but if also feels really fragile where the two sections meet.

I'm wondering if a tesla valve may be enough for the purpose of exhaling in a mask.

>>1789133
verkstan, prusa rc3, and budmen are all in use to some degree at actually good facilities. print those

>>1788718
to dab on fdm

>>1789135
https://youtu.be/ozFBsMyyDSE
It would probably work if you could make the valve array long enough somehow... like maybe 6 feet? Check valves see more use for a reason.

I'm getting issues with zhop being what I think is too fast. I've got a part with a few narrow features and whenever a new layer gets deposited, the nozzle manages to shift the previous ones and get ooze/stringing all over the place as well as making it just look like shit. Any suggestions that don't involve slowing the whole print down to fix this one feature?

>>1789217
What's your print temp? Sounds like a case of either printing too fast and the layer hasn't cooled down enough, or to low a temp and getting shitty layer binding.

Also, has anyone bothered to test the difference between PLA and PLA+? Filament manu in my country have recently started producing it, and are saying you get less stringing from it being more viscous etc. I get PLA+ will differ from ever manufacturer, but has anyone done any experiments?

>>1789220
210; I'm using Bronzefill, and everything I've read said it should be using PLA temps/ranges. Layer binding's great.

I'll post a picture when it's done but slowing it down to 25% speed didn't seem to help much, might actually have made it worse, looks blobbier now.

>>1789217
Try turning off zhop. I do 95% of my prints without. This will save you additional time.
I only use it when I have a print with little bed surface and a lot of gaps, where the nozzle could knock it over on a colision.

>>1789130
Create your own material profile.

>>1788807
MDF is pretty shitty, it could crumble apart from milling or vibrations. 3D-printed ABS and PETG, when properly done, are much more resistant to otuside factors.

If you've got a milling machine, consider aluminium.

>>1788041
>>1788041
What do you guys think of a respirator cartridge design like pic related?

It is based on the cut up surgical mask holders that have been floating around recently and obviously requires a respirator mask.
The thread in the pic is 40mm NATO for my mask (a western military surplus one) but it can be swapped out for any other appropriate connector.
The grey ring is a rubber gasket of the kind used in pipes, meant to provide a better seal when sandwiching the surgical mask material which goes on top of the whole contraption and is held in place by a base plate (not shown). The 4 holes 90 degrees apart are for machine screws. By clamping down on the mask material with sealing rubber, I'm hoping to reduce or eliminate any air flow around the sides.

anyone uses TMC2130 drivers or some similar ones?
I want to use sensorless homing, but i don't actually want to use SPI, or serial i want to use the drivers in dumb mode where you control the steppers with DIR and STEP pins and would like the homing to work in a way where if TMC2130 detects the stepper hit something, like the end of the rail, it will simply pull a pin high, is that possible? (for example you configure it where it the motor draws over 2 amps it pulls a pin high)

>>1789274
Stop your practically irrelevant corona activism to present yourself as saint infront of society.

3D printing masks is a dumb idea and the opposite what is needed rn.

>>1789311

Sheesh don't cut yourself on that edge.

That said, I don't think it's super responsible to try to reproduce complicated medical technology. Those face masks seem to be about the right degree of complication for most of us. Plus they're disposable, which is good because most things 3d printed are virtually impossible to sanitize.

>>1789311
This is for normal-ass people like myself when we run out of filters since this shit is going to be around for a while. If I were pretending to be a saint I'd print out 9001 of >>1789034 and force my local hospitals to accept them.

>>1788183
They made their own.
For some reason they dont want to give out the designs. Wierd.

>>1789274
assume people will be cutting up MERV-13+ material. it's not easy to breathe thru.

look at the billings clinic design. the seal around the filter is not nearly as much an issue as the seal around your nose and cheeks. solve that first.

https://formlabs.com/covid-19-response/
https://www.billingsclinic.com/foundation/3d-printed-surgical-mask/

>>1789274
I'm actually working on a replacement filter for Workhorse half mask. Just worked out the bayonet mount (Disregard the brim).

>>1789364
I can understand not wanting to give out the .sldprt's, but .stl's at least should be freely distributed to save as many lives as possible.

anyone else using the heated buildplate to keep their coffee warm?

>>1789370
Anything really.
I didnt ask why he doent want to share it, probably they dont want others to claim it as their own product.

>>1789371
Im using my hotend to keep my fleshlight warm.

>>1789374
i almost forgot i was going to design a fleshlight holder

>>1789371
I'm using my dick to keep >>1789374's coffee warm.

>>1789377
I have no idea whos coffee that was, because i never had coffee in my life.

>Download NA version of Verkstan face shield
>It won't show up in cura for some reason
>It shows up as meters instead of mm in SW
What the fuck, lmao

>started my first large print
Wish me luck guys, see you in about 16 hours

How hard is it really to make a couple of aluminium extrusions and a couple of belts 10-20cm longer? How come an ender 3 is $180 while a CR10 is about $400?

>>1789405
Don't forget the bed needs to be bigger.

>>1789407
Oh yeah, that's true. I'm retarded. I'm guessing making the heated element scale up (distributing heat reasonably uniformly, and providing enough power to heat the entire thing up in a reasonable amount of time) and making it sufficiently flat (even just ensuring a larger glass pane is flat enough) would jack up the cost.

>>1789314
>Those face masks seem to be about the right degree of complication for most of us

...or just a total waste of time.
If you want to help join the task forces to find a clever way to mass produce masks out of available materials. They need smaet people. The waterjetting anons are going into the right direction.

3D printing isn't suitable for masks. It's very uncomfortable without actual rubber seals. It takes way too much time to make, which raises the cost dramatically. And the worst of all, they can't be sanitized due to the layer capillary effect. You'll always have tiny defects and voids which you can't just wipe with isopropyl. You'd have to dip it in some expoxy finish to seal and smooth the surface before you could properly sanitize it. Other than that it'll be a germ haven.

People aren't even using TPU lol. Who wants comfort anyways

Just tie a fucking scarf or bandana on of your face if you want macro droplet protection. Too bad it's a simple solution and you can't flex your prototyping skills with it.

>>1789407
>>1789410
It's not expensive. It's just a pcb with an aluminium plate on it.
You can buy a 310x310 sized one for less than 30$.

Would also require a more powerful PSU though.

>>1789411
A better option (that won't be 3D printable by its very nature), would be for someone to invent a mask addon where incomming air goes through a chamber bathed in UVC light. UVC LEDs are available and can be battery powered; you could then use a far less fine filter on the inlet (even a cut up furnace filter) or even not at all. Due to the size and weight it might need a hose connection and a vent for exhaust air. The main problem would be (as mentioned) the chamber would need to be resistant to UVC light (thus 3D printed plastic is no good).

>order stuff from e3d
>one of the things they sent out is a different item from what I ordered
>let them know asap
>corona goes into overdrive
>haven't had any update for 10 days

Wack.
I mean I hope they're okay but this is holding up my whole build.

>>1789439
Stop being so soft after you got scammed you damn cuck.
Let them know that unless the fix their fuck up asap, then if corona doesn't kill them, you will.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UkEjycDlA94
>1.8m tall color prints in 7 hours
>two prints simultaneously
Time to start playing the lottery boys...

>>1789475
Neither of those mean literally anything.

>>1789487

>>1789371
I used mine to dry out some green onions a while back, worked well

Is there any measurable difference between PLA and some brands' "PLA+"? Like sunlu for example. Does it actually have any better properties, or is it literally just a marketing gimmick where they change it just enough to legally be able to market it as a different product, or something like that?
I can't find any useful reviews or guides that aren't just "uhh yeah it's basically PLA except it's not, it's, like, better according to the manufacturer, but also it's PLA, anyway comment like subscribe join the patreon and sub with twitch prime"

I'm looking for a cheap general purpose 3D printer, particularly prints that could achieve mechanical use and withstand stress, not just art. Is that possible for under $540? Also would it be cheaper to just build your own printer? I would be willing spend more if it means I can save by building it myself (ie building a $1,000 quality printer for $700 or less)

>>1789514
>under $540
>mechanical parts
Prusa Mini
>build it yourself
>$700 or less
Slightly above at $750, but Prusa MK3S.

The mini isn't as versatile due to the hotend (has a lower max temp) but is still robust, and the MK3S is all-around a good machine

I'd recommend against getting chinese kits for the reason that you'll spend far more time than is reasonable fucking around and "improving" them to what should be a base standard out of the box

>>1789366
Can you read? It's the CARTRIDGE. He said he already has the mask, "a western military surplus one".

>>1789517
>you'll spend far more time than is reasonable fucking around and "improving" them
But that's what's actually fun about 3d printing.

>>1789507
i dont see the point in PLA+
if i want a material with different mechanical properties id go for something with more thermal headroom and there's a lot out there

been printing ngen today, requires some dialing in but now prints like a dream and claims stability up until 85c.

>>1789514
the printer itself has like 5% effect on parts quality. its mostly about settings tuning and your own experience.
I recommend you first get some with pla/petg, then change for a titan or coated hot-end and then do some fancy mechanical shit with asa or pc

Dont get a prusa, their kinematic concept is shit for the price they ask.

>>1789526
Not for me. I'd rather be designing parts than figuring out why my walls are wobbly or the extrusion is off

>>1789507
I'm using Sunlu's PLA+ right now.
I haven't used anything else to compare it with yet, but the performance doesn't seem particularly outstanding or anything. It's adequate.
For me, though, the PLA+ wasn't any more expensive. I just bought it because that was what Sunlu had.

>>1789514
Most of the strength of a 3D print comes from the way in which you design the part and the way in which you print it based on your slicer settings, rather than the printer itself. Also the material used, obviously.

Modified my ender from 4 to 3 Bed screws
Fixed the dent in the center, made leveling a breeze and it cost me like 3$

>>1789552
on the right side you can drill a 3rd hole in the center of the build plate, as the heating traces are spaced out

thinking about buying a 3d printer
can you do (planetery) gearboxes and threads with 200€ chinkshit printers?

>>1789562
depends on the size

>>1789562
I don't know about gearboxes, but I've personally printed a set of tire valve caps (pic related) on my Ender 3, and they threaded on fine.

>>1789562
For what purpose? Just decorative, or will it be under real load?

>>1789566
M3 threads and 4x4 cm gearboxes?

>>1789569
under load but not necessarily much

>>1789568
looks nice

>>1789570
There is a great difference between "can" and "will".
Most FDM printers "can" achieve the same results no matter the price, but they "will" not.
M3 are fine with my Prusa as long as they are the outside thread and the counterpart is not a printed part but a proper metal part.

>>1789570
>looks nice
That's not my print, I just pulled that off of Google so you'd know the part I was talking about.
Pic related is the actual model I printed (although it's still not my picture, I don't think I even have pictures of mine.)

>>1789573
so inside threads with metal screws dont work?
have you ever tried just printing a hole and then cutting the thread with tools?

>>1789582
NTAYRT but tapping holes is pretty easy with ABS, kind of a pain with PLA. M3 threads are probably a bit too fine to print. If you undersize the hole a little, you can technically tap it with just the bolt itself, but it'll be a tight fit.

>>1789582
Guess i got the terms wrong, printing internal threads is fine, external threads aren't.
>>1789586
My Prusa prints M3 internal threads just fine at 0.2mm layer height.

>>1789596
Hmm. Guess I'll have to give that a go again, I might have been thinking of smaller threads then

>>1789596
>external threads aren't
I don't know if it varies with size, but I printed some external threads (assuming you mean ridges on the outside that screw into a hole) for a belt tensioner that worked fine.
That was PLA threads into a PLA hole though, and the threads seemed pretty large, so I don't know.

>>1789602
But was it M3?

>>1789610
I don't know.
This is the model: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2986144

>>1789570
>M3 threads
no, but you can just print a hole slightly smaller and the bolt will self tap. wood screws work even better, or you can include holes for nuts or inserts.
>4x4 cm gearboxes
I have had some success printing a planetary gearbox around that size on my chinkshit printer, but you have to tweak the tolerances to get it to fit well and wear it in after printing. My gearbox uses 6700 bearings to hold the planets onto the carrier, and the planets are slightly larger than the bearings if that gives you an idea of scale.

Noob question,

Would an Ender 3 be suitable for printing game prop replicas in pieces?

>>1789629
>game prop replicas
Like for cosplay and stuff?
I don't see why not, especially if you intend to sand/paint them anyway.

>>1789627
Dude the M3 threads work just fine, they're just a bit tight at first.

A row of tiny benchies.

Full sized, next to a 30% scale benchy, next to a 20% scale benchy, next to a 15% scale benchy, next to a 10% scale benchy, with the last being 5% scale.

>>1789678
Now you need to go the other direction and make a benchy large enough to actually sail on.

I printed this tree https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3749897 using the FDG Terrain profile and some of the branches broke immediately. what settings could I change to prevent the next tree from breaking?

>>1789745
100% infill?

>>1789720
That sounds like a challenge for me.

How good is bltouch. The worst part of fdm printing for me is leveling the bed. If I didnt heat up my bed and let the aluminum warp for like 20 minutes my first print would always fail. To counter this I put a glass plate on top. But then had to put a build surface on that. It works pretty well and I dont have to level anymore but I lost some of the print area.

>>1789753
generally not worth it, but if you simply cannot be fucked to level the bed every now and again, it can be worth it to buy it and be done with it
also, the glass plate IS a build surface, and a damn good one too

>>1789755
I had an issue with the glue layer being dusty and reapplying the glue stick. Wasnt a deal breaker but I also print in petg.

>>1789758
take a damp cloth and spread the glue around the bed
do this when you're starting a print, so that its fresh when printing begins
Clean your room so its not so goddamn dusty

>>1789745
Assuming you've already got 3 walls, try increasing the temp a bit or slow down a bit.

Wont help printing in petg which Ive read can bond TOO well to the glass.

>>1789760
>>1789758

I have small disposable alchohol swabs for cleaning glasses. They do quite well for when I need to dust off the glass surface and then printing works great.

I tried to print this raspberry pi 4 case today in PLA using cura's default settings (200 degree nozzle, 60 degree bed) for the material. I have a Monoprice Maker Select v1 I got 4 years ago that never had problems until today where I had to re-level the bed since nothing would stick. I print extremely infrequently (less than once every 3 months on average). What do I need to do to adjust so that the layers don't split?

>>1789789
When there are abrupt changes in printed volume between layers like that it often has a detrimental effect on print results.
Bump your print temperature up to 230C

>>1789745
Buy a better printer, something like Prusa MK3

>>1789758
Very clean glass might be better build surface than glue stick.
>>1789773
This might be the case but there are solutions to this, for example, remove the print while it is still somewhat hot, this way it will peel off nicely without taking glass with it.

>>1789813
>remove the print while it is still somewhat hot, this way it will peel off nicely without taking glass with it.
That can deform your print and you can still end up ripping some glass out.

Always use something between the glass and print to keep it from bonding to it, like glue, hairspray, Windex or a layer of Kapton.
Otherwise you end up ruining your glass plate sooner or later.

>>1789507
Mostly just a rip off. If you want more stability go for high temp PETG which is also cheaper than PLA+.

>>1789514
Evnovo (Artillery) Sidewinder X1
Seems to be the best deal overall you can get rn.
- large build volume (300x300x400)
- titan knock off direct extruder
- sensor assist bed levelling
- dual z-axis
- ultra silent stepper drivers
- sub $400

>>1789517
>Prusa mini
It's a shit printer, because auf the statically bad design. Reviews aren't too promising either and it has a very small build volume. The Ender 3 is easily better overall. Better print qualit, because more rigid frame design, bigger build area and half the price

>>1789820
>every axis uses aluminium extrusions as linear guide
looks like shit

>>1789821
Yea, just like any other sub $540 chink printer as anon requested.
I'm with you that extruded v-slot rails aren't the answer but still better than the wanky crane design of the prusa mini

Is there a way to know if your fep is punctured or not. Theres a very small deep scratch on mine. Ive tried pressing resin through it but it doesnt seem to penetrate. I can also feel the scratch on the back.
I dont want to wait a month for a new fep, but I also dont want to buy a new printer.

>>1789514
Prusa MK3 or Prusa Mini

>>1789366
>solve that first
easy, just use superglue, it was originally invented to quickly seal open wounds in soldiers and thus glues skin perfectly

>>1789820
>because auf the statically bad design
The fuck does this even mean?
> very small build volume
18x18x18 is very close to the 20x20x20 standard of 3d printers.
>The Ender 3 is easily better overall.
lmao
>Better print qualit
LMAO
>because more rigid frame design
lool
Honestly, it can't be healthy for you people being so delusional, i'll give it to you, chinese kit printers are cheap, but that is about it.

>>1789820
>photoshopped promo picture
what did they mean by this?

>>1789833
>just superglue the mask on your face

>>1789837
you can cahnge the filters without taking the mask off so what is the problem?
stop moving the goal posts pleb

>>1789829
Cheap i3 clones like the Anet ones use smooth rods at least.
Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus uses linear guides.

>>1789829
Good quality steel shafts are a hundred times better than extrusions and rollers.

>>1789834
Are there paid Prusa shills now?

The Ender 3 has a usable print volume of 13.8 liters (230x230x260) I have done 260mm prints on the ender.
The Prusa mini has 5.8 liters (180x180x180) which is less than half that

>The fuck does this even mean?
I meant the mechanical structural rigidity of the design.
A portal design is more rigid than the crane design of the mini.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=D0QoeqRFd0U

The mini is propably a good design for unexperienced beginners who like to spend more on a properly documented kit with actual western support. But bang for buck isn't great for a flawed design.

>>1789847
>Are there paid Prusa shills now?
By the looks of
>>1789812
yes

>>1789853
>>1789847
>shills
>paid, no less
Doubt it, but there's one guy whose response to literally anything is "buy a prusa" and he's fucking it up for the rest of us because he's either autistic or a really shitty troll

Printing one mask, on one printer, is of course fuck all in a big ship.
However, the local hospital has reached out asking to print 200 mask adapters - there's a real need for them. I'm prepping our uni's UM2s and three other companies are also working with us, for a total of about 40 printers.
Pic related, test runs.

>>1789514
>I'm looking for a cheap general purpose 3D printer
Qidi X-Smart
$300
prebuilt
downside is the small build area (150mm), but it can print with considerable accuracy given the drive setup and it's really reliable. The parts for it are dirt cheap too.

>>1789842
>Good quality steel shafts
>sub 540$

the rods on chinkprinters are garbage most of the time, sometimes not even hardened
expect to swap them early, aswell as the bearings

>>1789895
Prusa Mini is 380€ which is under 540$

>>1789842
lol are you cereal?
it's a printer not a fucking cnc mill, alu extrusions are perfectly fine

>>1789902
Sure they're fine, but shafts are better.
People are often saying that extrusions are better because they're more rigid but as you said, it's a 3d printer not a cnc mill so rigidity doesn't really matter, and indeed 8mm shafts aren't too rigid, but what they are is precise.

>>1789897
you know, i look at the picture >>1789832
and think to myself
wow that printed font looks like hot garbage, they really want to sell printers?

Whats with that abortion of a Build plate. The Y carriage is at least 2x as thick/heavy as it needs to be. Ontop a magnetic flimsy steel sheet (magnetic and they market this for ABS/ASA)
That's unnecessary heavy and guaranteed to be warped (oh well, at least they include shitty abl)

It has a whooping 160w PSU, thats 1/4 less than my chink printer has in the heat bed alone.
so we calculate 160W-40W hot end -25W Printer (feeling generous) = 95W for the bed
thats like 3W per cm2 (recommended is 5) enjoy waiting 25minutes for it to reach 100°C

Ontop, this thing wont ship until way after corona. Anon wants a printer now, not in september

Prusa is such a joke
>>1789514
Get a Ghost 4

>>1789904
I keep my belts tightened properly because that's the most important thing, period.

>>1789907

How often do you do that? I literally never have but it's been a good few hundred hours of prints now and I figure I probably should.

>>1789905
Aside from your inane ramblings about your own personal aesthetic preferences and how the Y carriage looks wrong to you your wattage numbers are completely wrong, when heating up the hotend draws at most 30W and then reduces that a lot when it reaches a stable temperature which it does in a minute or so and where the fuck are you implying that some 25 watts go? When heating up the other parts of the printer take almost no wattage at all, the motors aren't running after all.
From all that we can clearly see that after the hotend reaches stable temperature the heated bed will probably get around 140-150W which is plenty enough for a 18x18 bed.

Also, what the heck is up with your wattage per cm2 calculations? 18cm x 18cm = 324cm2 and 95W / 324cm2 = 0.293W/cm2 or with the correct numbers 150W / 324cm2 = 0.462W/cm2 which is almost exactly the same as with the MK3 which we all know is no slouch when it comes to heated bed performance, here are the calculations for the MK3: 21cm x 25cm = 525cm2 and 230W / 525cm2 = 0.438W/cm2
From here we can see that the 160W PSU is completely properly suited for the Prusa Mini.

>>1789909
This.
I have never tightened anything and ran through at least 8 spools or so. When I check on the tension, it seems to be fine.

Retard question, but what exactly is wrong with aluminium extrusion? Do they have imperfections when extruded, or something? I always though the main source of imprecision would be the belts.

Let's be honest: If your printer is using a belt for the X axis, whether it's running on steel rods or an aluminum extrusion is a bit of a moot point.

>>1789517
>cantilever printer

>>1789946
>>1789953
You know it would be actually cool to know how straight different profiles of different manufacturers are. There realy is a lot of cost saving potential but the process of extruding aluminium isn't realy monitored for precision i fear.

>>1789967
>straight
its not about straight, its about smooth surface and outer V dimensions. Where the V thickens or is deformed, you get binding issues
my ender y and z profile have a small but noticeable bumb where they drilled the mounting holes for the Y profile and the PSU

>>1790003
wouldn't a spring loaded roler on one side fix this?

>>1789946
The core problems are you have rubber rollers running through extruded and coated aluminum.
The rubber rollers on their own have imperfections and flat spots most of the time. Rubber obviously isn't a precision material.
The aluminum coating and extrusion also isn't made to the precision you would need for a machine with positioning accuracy of sub 0.1mm. I personally would get rid of the coating entirely.
It also does not support much weight or adding weight changes the performance.
The whole mechanical concept behind this rail system isn't good. But it's very cheap to make and works better than I thought it would be. Fine for sub $500 printers.

>>1790019
Makes sense.
>rubber rollers
I dunno, mine seem plastic (ender). It doesn't seem to have any give or flexibility at all, so either it's some kind of perfectly rigid rubber, or it's just plain plastic.
How come steel pipes are noticeable expensive, though? Is it just the cost of steel, or is the mechanism that much more difficult to manufacture and assemble?

>>1790014
nope
a spring stiff enough to withstand the leverage you put on it would be as hard as a screw
were talking about minor bumps here i can only feel with the belts off

in the end, the v slot design is penny crunching and shit. There is a reason you see this on chink printers but seldom on diy coreXY

i just checked... over here precision hardened 8mm rods are just as expensive as v slot extrusions
and LMU8's are cheap also. no real cost benefit outside of china

>>1790021
its POM and there is some give
some people run hard PC rollers but these suck if your extrusions are off

>>1789905
>printed font looks like hot garbage
It's printed face-down with no overhangs, literally nobody could make it better unless you had soluble supports, not sure what you're expecting here

>>1790029
I meant "only as overhangs", not "no overhangs", oops

Thought I'd ask here, anyone know if there's a way to make *real* threads in Inventor that's not just "sketch profile and extrude along spiral"? Surely there's a way I can model it in without needing to build it myself from scratch?

>>1790051

It has a thread tool.

https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/inventor/learn-explore/caas/CloudHelp/cloudhelp/2019/ENU/Inventor-Help/files/GUID-C0848D58-12CB-4605-8165-0836232927F0-htm.html

>>1790052
That's still only cosmetic, it doesn't make the actual geometry.

Today I made a low effort stick to stop my graphics card from sagging.

>>1789789
Dry your filament.

>>1790068
What's the best way? Moisture packs in a ziploc or wut do?

>>1790070

If you have an oven with good temperature control, that. If your filament is already wet, I don't think moisture packs are going to get you there.

>>1790070
Store in ziplocs with desiccant packs. Food dehydrators work very, very well to dry rolls overnight. 10hrs@122F for PLA 6hrs@140F for the more exotic higher temp filaments.

Holy fuck why did nobody tell me that removing supports would be so tedious
Spent three hours just doing that today

They don't sound like complete shit just regular shit, but for the price of free by using drivers from some scrap at work they aren't too bad.

>>1790090

Avoid supports wherever possible. I'd much rather split a thing and throw some superglue on it than print with supports most of the time.

>>1790090
use lines with no walls

>>1790093
I can definitely see the logic behind that but in my case I'm not sure that was possible, not without printing it in two dozen pieces or something

>>1790051
Machinist handbook has a great section on thread geometry.

>>1790090
Make the supports weaker/more sparse, so they break apart easier.
Cura's default support settings are much stronger and more solid than they need to be for most prints.

>>1790098
honestly, the latest stock cura settings make removing the supports very easy. They tweaked it compared to earier versions. Maybe you have some funny setting dailed in?
Should take more like 10 minutes than 3 hours for your print.

>>1790097
>>1790103
>>1790106
I did put lines at 10%, but I didn't think to turn off walls. It definitely would've made some parts easier. On the other hand the roof of the support was already printing autistically in some cases due to the sparsity of the lines, thankfully after a couple of layers of roof there was enough support for the actual part to print fine on top of it, but I wouldn't want to go much lower.

How would you do it in 10 minutes? The amount of area being supported meant pulling them off in one block wasn't feasible, so I had to dig through from the bottom to autistically scrape them off in chunks, slowly working my way around the whole area. The big cluster on the left was tall and narrow so there I was able to rip off a huge chunk, but everything else had to come off in small pieces. Plus the model itself being a few mm thick in most cases meant I didn't want to pull like a brute.

>>1790109
print zigzag support
grab with pliers and pull off

>>1790109
>the roof of the support was already printing autistically in some cases due to the sparsity of the lines
>but I wouldn't want to go much lower.
There are two areas you can tweak for your supports: the supports themselves (90% of what's actually holding your print) and the support interface (the layer that actually touches your print).
You can make your supports very weak/sparse, so that you can easily rip and tear them away, and still have a relatively solid interface layer, so that the actual print isn't affected. Once you tear off 90% of the weaker support material, you can use a screwdriver or something to pop the interface layer off of your print in one solid piece.
Ideal interface characteristics can vary based on what's actually being supported, I think, but for large smooth surfaces I've had the best quality using 100% density interfaces, with the Lines interface pattern. The increased density does make it a bit more difficult to pop off, though. For ease of removal, the regular partially-dense grid interface is fine.

You can also disable the support interface and print right on top of the actual supports, but I believe the support interface is enabled by default in Cura. It was for me, at least.

>>1790114
Yeah, actually tearing off the support body was a pain, but that might have been due to the walls. Next print like that I'll definitely turn off walls.
Pulling off the roof/interface in one block wouldn't have been feasible since the surface is a grid with a ton of different angles at slightly different diagonals. Plus cura was retarded and in places where the print angle was close enough to vertical to not need supports (e.g. near the back of my picture), instead of leaving empty space, it still filled it with support body - just leaving out the interface. When it would have been much easier to split the support mass into disjoint pieces, leaving empty space beneath areas that really didn't need support.

>>1790109
>>1790116

When I print supports they come off with a big CRACK and the surface left needs little to no cleaning. Basically stock curabl support settings. I might even have increased the support density. I always print them with walls. I can give you the profile if you like.

I only have issue in areas where supports are really flat and the print close to the bed. But thats kinda normal I guess.

>>1790129
>When I print supports they come off with a big CRACK and the surface left needs little to no cleaning
That's fine if your print leaves you a lot of room to pry the support off, but not all types of prints are so lucky.
For example, a while ago I printed something using default Cura supports that had a tube shape as part of its design. Naturally the tube filled with support material. However, due to how solid the supports were it was very difficult to break them apart and pull them out in pieces, and I couldn't pull it out in one piece because the only room for movement was straight into the tube or straight out of it, and the support was anchored to the print on both the top and bottom. I also could not pry it off vertically, for the same reason.
By comparison, the support holding up the underside of the neck WAS that easy to pop off, but only because I could grab it and snap it off at a heavy angle.

Forgive me if this has been discussed before, but I want to learn more about pic related. Does some printer software actually generate support like this, or are these people actually designing them themselves? Anyone here have firsthand experience?
>>1788434
Tell me more about your articulation experience. I intend to paint my parts and some of the joints, but even a clear coat will probably wear away just like when the resin rubs off that chalky layer.

>>1790188
you might find https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RPijCjz9G1w useful

I have used this approach, as well as unorthodox orientations

>>1790188
>or are these people actually designing them themselves?
I don't know for sure one way or the other, but personally I think it's a safe bet that the kind of cage in your pic is hand-designed rather than auto-generated.

Any recommendations for a 3D printing pen?

>>1790267
That's kind of what I was getting an impression of. Think I'll try my own to copy that and see how it goes on my cheap-ass SLAs.

>>1790292
You might be able to find premade "frames" or something for such cages on Thingiverse, if you wanted to try putting the model for it together from pieces rather than modeling the whole thing from scratch.

>>1789275
You can set the TMC2130 to do that, but you have to set it up via the command interface. There's no onboard static config, so you'll need to talk to it.

Also, the STALL pin is... really overrated. StallGuard is only generally reliable if you're watching the data realtime and doing some smart discrimination. Skipping doesn't mean you drew some fixed amount of current.

>>1790298
I don't mind whipping up some cages. I'm more or less going to copy what it looks like there and in other pics that Jap hobbyists post. Here's to hoping it gets anything like the finish shown.

>>1790290
Yes. Don't get one.

>>1790188
>>1790292
The only reason I think someone would make something like this is for a finished piece to sell so it's not just a bag of parts, looks good as a product, and provides protection during transport. I don't think it's worth doing this otherwise because you're wasting a lot of resin on supports when you could just save time by putting them all on the print bed.

>>1790333
This explanation also makes a lot of sense, as some of their tweets mentioned they were selling them as accessories. It still has my interest because it looks like a lot less work to remove the support while maintaining clean contact points. Or else there's something fundamental that I'm not grasping when it comes to generating SLA supports.

Pretty butthurt, ordered an Ender 3 Pro a few weeks ago on aliexpress and they've cancelled the order on me, I guess they ran out of stock. Knew I should've ordered from amazon instead, it's been bumped up to 550 dollarydoos now.

Is the Pro really worth the upgrade over the standard Ender 3? I'd shell out for a prusa but those long backorder times are a pain.

>>1790051
Had the same problem, went to inventor app store and downloaded a thread tool.
It's really quite annoying how Inventor lacks some of the features fusion 360 has.

>>1790098
Should have printed that standing up lol.

>>1790364
I just bought a Prusa MK3S and the time from order placed to at my door was like 9 days. That's not bad to me given the current global situation.

>>1790408
>>1790397
>>1790396
>>1790364
>>1790357
>>1790333
>>1790311
>>1790307
HOw do I 3d print a coof?
*coof*

>>1788041
This board is quiet.
It shall be my home.

>>1790412
>>1790411
i don't think it spreads by replies tho

I want a printer because I looked at printing services and the thing I want to make costs a minimum of like $150. I'll probably at most print something once a month, maybe more if I find reasons to use it.
The ender 3 pro looks interesting.

>>1790305
>There's no onboard static config, so you'll need to talk to it.
You mean it doesn't remember the shit you set when you power it off and on so you have to reprogram it every turn you reboot it? that sucks i was hoping i could program it via SPI just once and then use it in dumb mode

>>1790364
550 dollars for an ender 3 pro? That's insane

>>1790412
what is this some fresh new meme from pol?

Guys, I'm scared. Is it too late to 3d print PPE?

I messed up my quarantine and now I'm infected,
What do?

>>1790496
QUICK 3D PRINT A MASK TO PROTECT OTHERS
Make sure to add nice graphics on it to show others that you not only care about virus protection but also about a fine appearence

>>1790456
I was going to buy one and saw the price hike starting last week across the board. Just be patient and wait for all the idiots buying them to realise they have no fucking idea what they're doing, they'll be back up on ebay for parts or used soon enough. It's a perfect storm considering a lot of people are also getting their salary/wage fucked rn, there'll be some desperate fucks.

Anyone experienced with 3d pens?
I want to buy one but i dont want some crap.

I had a polaroid 3d pen before but i coulnt even draw a single line before it failed. Nichrome flex PCBs soldered to rigid wires are a bad design choice.

Should I just shell out for the 10usd e3d nozzles? Most 3d printing stores in aus as far as I can tell only sell e3d nozzles or no name chinese clones, and I'm beginning to trust anything machined or manufactured by the ch*nks less and less these days.

>>1790533
Really weird to me, a niche hobbyist/prototyping tool is the last thing I expected to get panic bought. Do you think it's because of the masks meme or something?
>Just be patient and wait for all the idiots buying them to realise they have no fucking idea what they're doing
Hey I'm that idiot, except I impulse bough maybe a year ago for $200 and then figured it out to get away from buyer's remorse

>>1790541
Yeah, it's more or less mask memes I think. There may be some "entrepreneurs" trying to make a fast buck, both in terms of this being a bubble and some taking advantage, and in terms of trying to get contracts to make medical equipment (unlikely to happen, I was just entering this space and this is the wrong way to go about it). So yeah, I'm pretty sure there's a lot of "mask printer go brrr" morons who then think they can sell PPE or ventilator valves or something. There's a lot of money floating around for these types right now. Also logistical problems stifling supply isn't helping, but I'm still seeing people actively paying a lot for these things (you can see stuff like ebay auctions are going for very high prices rn), so demand is definitely up.

Generally this time of year is not too bad to buy one, they go up in price around Christmas and then left over stock and nearly new second hand stuff floods the market at the start of the year.

>>1790534
3doodler is pretty okay, I got the Create like a week before they released the Create+ for around $15, works so far.

>>1790475

You really shouldn't be printing PPE imho, you can't guarantee its effectiveness.

>>1790533
>>1790542

Lol, i expected isopropyl alcohol to get a price hike but not this... It's either that people are stupid and getting them to print masks, or they're looking for a hobby for quarantine time.

>>1790560
>or they're looking for a hobby for quarantine time.
I'm managing and looking to get other non-3d printing equipment ridiculously cheaply atm, so I suspect not. It seems quite a few people are selling that thing they were always going to work on when they had time.

>>1790091
lrn 2 sand

Hi I just finished my first 3d printer and made the dumb mistake of leveling when cold and the nozzle made the first layer into the bed. Now nothing comes out of the nozzle. Is it fixable? Or do I need new parts?

>>1790610
well my guess ist the filament is broken on the extruder gear
either heat up as hot as you can crank it and push it through manually or disassemble the hotend because it likely needs cleaning

as long as the nozzle is hot and your buildsurface is plastic, they can take a surprisingly amount of abuse

>>1790610
Grab a pair of pliers and do something called an atomic pull. Look it up on YouTube to see how it's done. It will remove and blockages and get you going again. After that, you'll want to run like 5 cm of filament through the cold end so you get proper grip on the feeder gear.

>>1790627
>atomic pull
thanks that the trick

really nice after 60hours of working on it and solving problems more problems are popping up. this thing might end up in the firepit tonight

>>1790333
>>1790357
Yes, you'll see stuff like that quite often on shapeways. Partly for protection while shipping, mostly because it then counts as a single item (costs less) and fits in a defined print volume.

>>1790648
Can you show us the underside of that hot end.

>>1790648
>Dat random flathead screw on the carriage

Is there a reason cura insists on bridging 4-sided rectangles diagonally, rather than horizontally across the shortest side? Seems like it forces unnecessarily long bridge lines across the diagonal, when they could be shorted by going straight.
If I'm right and it's better to go straight, is there a way to force cura to do so? I can't seem to find anything, it always insists on diagonal bridging.

>>1790648
First thing you have to do is take off that painter's tape and reapply it so that there's no gaps between the strips. Remember, .1 mm is the thickness of a sheet of paper, and if you're off by that much then you'll get stringing like you have in the picture. Do it like this guy: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=E-48kMmzrQM

Then, what you do is heat up your nozzle AND your bed at the same time. Once it's heated up, you take a sheet of paper and pass it under the nozzle while raising or lowering the bed till you can just barely feel a tug on the sheet of paper. If you look closely, you should see shiny trail marks from the hot end touching the paper. Do that in at least three places, as far from each spot as possible, and level accordingly. Remember, a plane only requires three points.

If you're still having problems, you may want to do another atomic pull, and then look into properly calibrating the steps on your cold end extruder. You're a newbie, so that might be difficult, but it will be good practice for you to calibrate the steps on your x, y, and z axis.

Understand, 60 hours isn't a wholenlot of time to dedicate to mastering something. I built my first printer with no prior experience, and it was a delta, which is way harder than a standard cartesian printer. Long story short, I probably spent 200 hours learning the ins and outs of the machine and Gcode before I finally got a solid understanding of how everything works. Keep plugging away at learning your machine, and you will get better.

>>1790686
Oh, and make sure your printer settings are the default for your given printer. You may want to bump up your temp by 5 degrees on your nozzle from default.

>>1790686
thanks, I guess I underestimated how much precision is needed to get a decent print

>>1790692
Personally, if the first layer doesn't go down flawlessly, I immediately kill the print and start over.

>>1790648
>>1790610
Should have bought a Prusa.

>>1790676
>leme just order this 5pack for 3$99

>>1790686
>Once it's heated up, you take a sheet of paper and pass it under the nozzle while raising or lowering the bed till you can just barely feel a tug on the sheet of paper.
if you do that after homing Z you end up with a z offset of approximately -0.1mm. Now you start a print job your printer prints 1st layer at z0.2, but in reality your bed is off by the paper thickness below z! The nozzle gap of might be to big

Fine for 0.2 layers with no extruder or nozzle calibration, but this wont work for 0.1 and your part height will be off by the offset

The proper way to level is Home -> move z0.1 -> level with sheet of aprox 0.1mm paper
Then you end up with the proper nozzle gap

>buy filament on aliexpress
>sunlu sends me a message telling me they're bundling face masks with several products and I should check them out if I want masks
LMAO what the fuck
https://aliexpress.com/item/32838581976.html
https://aliexpress.com/item/4000755252637.html
They also sent the links in portuguese for whatever reason (i.e. the message was in enrgish, but the links were to pt.aliexpress.com)

>>1790724
Should have bought Prusament

>>1790709
I imagine he's printing with default settings that have the 120-140% extrusion rate and with a 0.4 mm nozzle, where he probably won't be going below .3 for some time. I agree that isn't the "correct way" to do things, as what you actually need to do is take the first layer extrusion rate to 100% and get a set of vernier calipers and print and adjust based off of printed layer thickness, but he just want's to get rolling with a successful print. For him, precision can come later.

>>1790564

Maybe it has more to do with international delivery being more difficult with less airplanes flying around. The post office in my country completely stopped doing outgoing "priority" packages and is only allowing the slow type that's by land.

>>1790737
thing is
shorcuts will bite him and other people reading in the ass sooner or later
and its not like proper leveling gets explained on the internet, its always the circle of struggle with the paper, be frustrated, buy BL-touch.
Now some people for whom this works may use a leveling assist that applies the z height without showing. And the next anon wonders why nothing sticks despite him doing "just like" the other

>>1790742
I did consider that but >>1790542
>Also logistical problems stifling supply isn't helping, but I'm still seeing people actively paying a lot for these things (you can see stuff like ebay auctions are going for very high prices rn), so demand is definitely up.
To me it's looking like there's a run on these things rn. I suspect it's funding stuff. I jumped in with a bunch of "entrepreneur" groups in the last couple of weeks, there's already been some rounds and a lot of the funding is going to stuff that's already up and running, like you need working prototypes. Also 90% of people creaming themselves around these things are obsessed with drones and robots because they don't catch corona.

Question, when bridging, is it normal for the first layer to be really sparse? Sorry for the blurry pic, I just snapped it mid-print but I think it gets the point accross.
I'm not observing any structural issues, and the second floor layer prints just fine and is properly solid, I'm just wondering whether this is expected or not.

>>1790760
to me it looks like your nozzle is just a little too high from the build plate, so the plastic isn't squishing into it enough to fill in the lines

>>1790768
That would probably be due to the intentional gap between the supports and the model (this is being printed on top of supports, I've also observed this exact behaviour when bridging over air). So sounds like this is normal for this situation, then.

What's causing this color difference between the layers on my Ender 3
Is it Z axis wobble? Ringing?

>>1790550
The 3mm filament makes it a no go pretty quick, looks okay tho.
Ill keep looking

>>1790560
>You really shouldn't be printing PPE imho
Kinda my thoughts. I would legitimately like to donate a bunch of printable face shields or something to local hospitals. But I would say the majority of printed shit isn't even food-safe, because bacteria and germs can into those microscopic gaps between layers or fill patterns

>>1790798
the idea is for them to be single use before being thrown into medical waste

>>1790560
>>1790798
Here's the funny thing: I'm printing (together with some other people) a boatload of mask connectors for a local hospital who explicitly asked us. Went through their internist and all that jazz, so it's approved for their use given the nature of the current emergency.
>But I would say the majority of printed shit isn't even food-safe, because bacteria and germs can into those microscopic gaps between layers or fill patterns
If you print properly you can make a container that can stand up to moderate pressure, and under said pressure microparticulates (even <20um) won't pass through within the time a user utilises the mask. Beyond that, it's better than no mask at all.
That being said, I've also worked on research in biomedical application of the porosity of prints to get tissue to hang on to them in the long term, which is great for implants and such (assuming the printed material eventually degrades). So yeah, your worries in this case are real, and without rigorous cleaning viruses and bacteria can cling onto and pass through printed components.

>>1790800
>the idea is for them to be single use before being thrown into medical waste
You can easily clean them in between uses with UV lights and other suchs measures, why waste a good mask?

a hospital in a city near me has a resin printer and they print air valves for respirators

>>1790810
>Yaay we saved X people with our resin based valves
>they die of cancer

>>1790816
Cured resin is different from liquid resin. That's comparable to saying you'll get food poisoning from an omelette because raw eggs could be contaminated.

>>1790816
Funny joke, but they were using UV curing resin for dental work long before 3d printers were a thing

>>1790787
is your layer height a multiple of 0.04?

>>1790835
magic numbers are bs
if you happen to home on a microstep the printer will not move in fullsteps upwards
>>1790787
the lines can also come from too much flow and thus filament getting sometimes squeezed outwards.
if you look at your top and bottom corners you can see them bulging out. thats an indicator of too much plastic

>>1790803
>That being said, I've also worked on research in biomedical application of the porosity of prints to get tissue to hang on to them in the long term, which is great for implants and such (assuming the printed material eventually degrades). So yeah, your worries in this case are real, and without rigorous cleaning viruses and bacteria can cling onto and pass through printed components.
A group I've been working with (way before this, they're biomed research) is constantly having issues trying to integrate 3d printing to make autoclaveable parts. Porosity is a perennial issue. There are ways around it though, but you need to use other techniques for production.

>You can easily clean them in between uses with UV lights and other suchs measures, why waste a good mask?
If you're doing a clean/dirty type of ... protocol? I guess you can reuse some parts, but ultimately it's contamination. UV won't do shit if the surface and/or contamination is bad enough.

>>1790905
Why is the eternal argument "because layer lines" when it's gotten progressively easier to vapor smooth printed parts? Sure, it's an additional step that adds cost, but surely it can't be so labor- or cost-intensive that it's worth dismissing it as a whole?

any opinions on the creality Ender 5 pro?
is it worth spending 150$ more for the built in improvements?


also what are diy's tips for creating the best surface finishes right of the tray? I am worried that going to finer nozzles with thinner layers might create sharper, finer edges.
has anybody tried sandblasting/shot peening printed parts for haptic reasons?
I understand sanding and coating is the go to method but not really feasable if you want to improve surface quality inside a hollow part.

my 3d print is stuck to its buildtak plate, already tried cooling it and applying a 50:50 solution of water and IPA. taking the plate off = destroying the build tak surface. any ideas?

>>1790998
What material?

>>1790999
PLA

>>1791002
Nice April Fools joke faggot. But seriously, just wedge a razor between the print and the buildplate. It's PLA.

Hey anons, I 3dprinted a stand for my glue gun a while back, and my new glue gun
>ccbetter ggc100

is fatter than my old one. anyone know of a print that has a fatter opening similar to what im using now?
>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3423261

>>1791038
nevermind gents, I found this one.
>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4183158

>>1790746
>shortcuts will bite them in the ass later
I was going to argue with you, but you're 100% correct. Vernier calipers should come standard with every printer.

Where should I look to find someone to print for me? I procrastinated on getting a thing printed and now can't access school printers thanks to the shutdown. The online services seem to be rather overpriced and have phased out contacting individuals, instead obfuscating an industrial network.

>>1791043
just buy an ender 3 off ali

>>1791045
I don't have anywhere near enough printing in my future to justify buying one.

>>1791048
I'll print it for you at 20% upcharge from cost, assuming you live in the Burger Hemisphere so shipping costs aren't inanse. Otherwise, some other anon might help you out. What do you need?

new thread, more appropriate for the current day: >>1791053

So watching this video made me realize Iso alcohol really actually sucks for cleaning resin:

https://youtu.be/tnGasVwkgMk

Played a hunch tonight with LA's Totally Awesome cleaner that paid off in spades (for those who are unfamiliar; they sell it in Dollar Tree / Dollar General for a buck a bottle). 6 mins in a cheapo $15 ultrasonic I had on hand got my prints CLEAN (I don't think an US cleaner is actually necessary for it to work; just happened to have one).

tl;dr iso alcohol sucks, use dollar store cleaners instead

>>1791055
>low effort OP picture
Come on now.

>>1791052
My headphone model has a design flaw such that the gimbals eventually fracture. They're $17 each from shapeways and 3dhubs has a $100 minimum now. My alternative is to buy an entire replacement headband for $15 and reinforce it, I guess by filling it with epoxy before it can start to fatigue and/or affixing a metal plate. Here's the STL since I don't know how much material it comes out to or which material would be best for resisting fatigue. I need at least two, though four would be nice for backups.

https://mega.co.nz/#!hwUnALYL!iE8Djtq08OCVf8G5M2GkI2GnTfO2c7oaBT7VFWm_pHo

>>1791060
it's funnier this way

>>1790760
>bridging
>first layer
As in, you're building a solid layer over the top of nothing?
I believe it's to be expected, in that case. The filament doesn't spread out as much as it would otherwise because there's nothing for it to squish against. Printing over a sparse infill can show the same phenomenon, and can occasionally require additional top layers in order to put enough material down to form a solid floor for the actual top layer to print on.

>>1791043
Etsy has plenty of people printing miscellaneous junk, I'm sure.
You could just send one of them a private message and an .stl file and work out pricing from there.

>>1790974
Just because the outer later is vapor smooth doesn't mean its not porous. You'd have to coat it in resin to get close to it being able to make it sterile, and even then there are questions regarding any pits or divots where bacteria may grow.

>>1790810
At that point why aren't they just autoclaving and reusing the old valves?

What is wrong with my printer?
Start went well and at middle of print something started to go wrong.
Printer is Ender 3 Pro, filament is PLA that comes with printer, bed temp is 50c, extruder temp is 200c and print speed is what ever it is when printer comes from factory.
Object in this picture is big that comes on sd card with printer. It was first print.

>>1791251
This is what all prints look now after few layers.

>>1791251
Here is that failed big from top.

>>1791251
Don't bother with the gcode that comes on the SD card.
Get cura, use the default settings it has for the Ender 3 and work from there.

>>1791260
Middle picture has one items on left that is printed with gcode from cura with default settings for Ender 3.

>>1791261
Huh. It looks really blobby.
How does it look when the first layer is going down? The nozzle needs to be a little bit closer to the bed than subsequent layers to kinda squeeze it onto the bed.
Also, you want the bed springs to be as taut as possible when leveled. I'd recommend getting these:
https://www.amazon.ca/LEOWAY-Compression-Spring-CR-10Mini-Printer/dp/B07QCTSZ9G
Some wingnuts to prevent the knobs from loosening would be a good idea, as well.
The issue being that the bed will tilt when it changes direction, fucking with the distance between the nozzle and the previous layer. That can cause poor layer adhesion or get the nozzle to hook onto the part. Both of these situations can lead to printing spaghetti.

>>1791262
First layer is fine. To me it seems that printer is not lifting z-axis enough and it causes nozzle to drag on parts.
I just don't know what can cause this kind of problem to manifest at middle of print. Z-axis moves freely without binding.

>>1791264
Try slowing the print speed down. If that solves it, I think it's most definitely the bed being too loose. Getting the stiffer springs would let you bring the print speed back up.

>>1790188
I don't have any pictures of it but I usually model my supports in the dising, that way I know for sure that I can get good repeatable results.

I don't have any pictures of the raw prints anymore but...
For instance let's take the legs on this model. I models these with angles so that I could print the flat on the bed without any mayor overhangs. And the arms I have a 0.2mm support wall in two places, not for overhangs but so it is stable during the print.