/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1771918
oh look at this

Would anyone here recommend the Evnovo/Atillery Sidewinder? i currenly have an anycubic mega but its loud as fuck to me plus i need a bigger print volume. or would it be better to stick with a Cr10 v2?

>>1771918
>my print with the shitty spider web stringing made it into the OP
Is this what it feels like to have made it? I'll contribute something not disgusting next time I promise.
>>1771941
After getting my v2 dialed in so far it's been great. I don't think I've heard the motors once.

why is prusa so slow on shipping printer ?

>>1771978
>2 days
>slow

>>1771980
4 months for the mini

>>1771981
It's a new product, they're a relatively small company, AND it's backordered due to huge demand. Not sure what you're expecting in this case, it's not like Chang can throw some potmetal and old circuit boards into a box and ship it to you in a week like usual.

>>1771982
That printer got the prusa quality for the price of a cheap chinese printer, they should have anticipated

>discover ways to make print look better
>can no longer print anything else until I master them in my tests
At least my prints will look really good once I'm no longer enslaved by the perfectionism.

>>1771989
share your knowledge anon

>>1771989
Reminder your z-seams will always make it look shit.

>>1771992
Well, it's still fairly entry-level, but
>printing with a smaller nozzle diameter, such as 0.3mm for a 0.4mm nozzle, makes the lines thinner and less noticeable on top surfaces, which leads to a smoother-looking surface
>these ironing settings:
>Pattern: Zig-zag
>Line Spacing: 0.2mm
>Flow: 25%
>Inset: 0.2mm
>Speed: 150mm/s
>Acceleration: 500mm/s2
>Jerk: 20mm/s
>yield a perfectly smooth, glossy surface except for this one print I'm trying right now, for reasons I don't know yet
Moving to Cura in general was a big step up for my prints' quality. I was using the slicing program that came with the Ender 3 for a while.
For like a week I printed nothing but cubes with various degrees of surface skins, extra extrusion, etc. My best surface finishes so far have been the 0.3mm nozzle diameter and the ironing.

>>1771994
Not if I print things with corners.

>>1771918
What is the probability that I will burn down my house running an ender 3, and how can I prevent it from happening, and replace cheap china wires

>>1771995
If you don't yet have an enclosure, get/make one, that'll get rid of another unknown (ambient temperature fluctuation and breezes/drafts)

>>1771998
>ambient temperature fluctuation and breezes/drafts
While this definitely could cause issues, the issues I'm having with the print are always in the same spots on the print. I've already turned off all the fans in the room, shut the door/window/etc, but even if there WAS some kind of draft or environmental temperature weirdness, wouldn't it cause random surface issues rather than consistent surface issues?
I'd think it was a bed leveling issue were it not for the fact that
1. The problem spots don't get worse/better as you go towards/away from an edge. One of them is in a middle portion of the surface, with smooth surface all around it.
2. The test print I made the other day, which is literally the same print sliced down to just the top handful of layers, had a perfect surface with none of the imperfections in those places.
I'd consider warping, but I'm using a glass bed.
Another anon suggested squishing the filament on the top/bottom layers slightly by printing at 0.42mm line width instead of 0.4mm, which I think is what I'm going to try next.

>>1771999
instead of spending so much time on that, why don't you try to print as decent as possible and do a post treatment ? Make hole circular with a drill, sander + paint for a smooth surface, etc ?

>>1772008
Because I know it CAN be done with just the printer. Sure, I could sand and paint the thing for a smooth surface, but I don't want to have to do that for every print, and on some prints sanding might be difficult due to their shape.
If I can figure out exactly what I'm doing wrong and fix it for this print, then all my future prints will have the benefit of a completely smooth, homogenous top layer, and I won't have to do post-processing because the prints will look good right off the printer.

>>1772011
you're right, out of curiosity, are you printing functional print or decorative ?

Does anyone here have any recommended fun prints that aren't really popular on reddit/thingiverse? I think I've printed most of that shit.

>>1771970
what made you get it over something like the sidewinder though? just because the creality seems to have less features yet costs more

>>1772032
I got my v2 for 650aud, which was cheaper than I could find the sidewinder at the time

i'm thinking about having 2 set of hotend/nozzle bowden, one with 0.4mm, the other one as 0.8mm for fast big print. What good brands exist beside E3D and their over-priced stuff?

Is there a good alternative to the Prusa i3 but enclosed under 1000$?

>>1772064
creality cr 10 + a hand made enclosure ?

>>1772066
Ain't no time to make an enclosure, but i'm willing to put money on a good printer that come with one. What are my option?

What are some fun things to make with transparent polysmooth filament?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wKgUiEFUVl4

I mostly just print DnD minis, but I'm open to other ideas too

>>1772070
>sheeit, ain't got no time for duct tape and foamcore nigga
Your options are stop being a lazy fuck and fuck off /diy/, pick one

>>1772022
This print is decorative, but I do/have printed both.

>>1772031
Thingiverse has some realistic models of food, which might be interesting to print. The only one I've done myself is https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2709360
The surface texture came out really lifelike.

It's was a bit of a bitch to print, though. I had to turn the model so that two corners are near the plate, and then lean it over slightly so that supports can be built for it. If you lay it flat the amount of supports fucks up the face, but if you stand it upright the lack of surfaces to support causes it to break during printing.

I'm trying to make a part look like aluminium. I bought XTC3D and a jar of fine grain aluminium powder, and mixed it two parts epoxy to one part aluminium and one part hardener, as adviced on the box, slapped it onto an old print as a trial, and got a very ugly drab gray instead of something that actually resembles aluminium. I've tried polishing it with sandpaper, steel wool and a car polishing pad, but all that's accomplished is turn it less shiny. It looks absolutely nothing like aluminium.
The look I want is the same as on a flat aluminium plate, such as a printer bed. Is this going to be possible at all with what I have, or should I just go to a hardware store and buy a shake can of chrome or something?

>>1772211
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OXUnVaSAY6c

get some alclad aluminum paint

>>1772211
>got a very ugly drab gray instead of something that actually resembles aluminium
Aluminum powder doesn't exactly resemble solid aluminum. Too many tiny surfaces for the light to reflect off of.
You'd be better off trying a paint that already looks metallic, or something like electroforming to give it a shiny coat of some sort of grey metal.

>>1772219
I don't have any airbrushing equipment, and as I understand it those sprays are pretty fragile. This is going to be a part on an electric scooter, so ideally the paint should be a bit durable. I don't want huge obvious scratches from dust or smears from water. Could I spray with alclad and then coat it with clear epoxy afterward without making it look weird? Last time I tried something like that (coating red PETG that had little sparkly bits in it) I got very bad results. The metallic effect completely disappeared.

>>1772211
aluminum oxidizes and the powder looks dull and cant really be polished like other powder things
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b1blx_dsz8E
this works and supposedly can be polished.
there are some multi step spray chrome paint too

>>1772228
That looks perfect, and I won't have to buy airbrushing stuff either. Thanks, I'll see if amazon has some.

>>1772211
>two parts epoxy to one part aluminium and one part hardener

I suspect that is way too much binder to get the effect you want. Remember, unlike solvent-based paints, none of the epoxy is going to evaporate. Ideally, you'd get a mix of 2-3 aluminum powders, sized such that the smaller sizes just fill the gaps between the larger grains. Then use the minimum amount of binder possible while still maintaining finished strength.

But this would likely leave you with more of a dough than a paint or coating, You'd need either some kind of thinner or surfactant to keep it highly fluid.

All in all, it'd be a lot of experimentation to get what you want. Unless you're in it just for the sake of learning how to make it work, I'd do as >>1772219 suggests, and just buy a ready-made paint.

Source: Tried to do basically what you're doing, but using graphite to get a sort of paint-on resistor compound. Massive pain in the ass.

>>1772231
I've been considering getting a small one and priming small armies instead of one-offs to make up for the cost of paint.
there are solutions like these for 5 bucks; if you only need to use spray paint once and for some reason it does not have a can ver (automotove luminescent paint or a sample mb) these BYOP paint cans are cheap and work most of the time

>>1772232
I saw people doing it with brass and getting great results, and wasn't clever enough to figure out that aluminium is different, and that there probably was more to their technique than they were showing.

I did thin the epoxy with acetone, applying it was pretty easy with the included foam brush. It was my first time using epoxy, and other than the complete failure to make it resemble aluminium I'm pretty happy with the product. I made a bunch of newbie mistakes applying it, but if I were to do it again I think it would work well. I'd just have to get some other powder, there are premixed ones for sale that supposedly resemble gold, rust and such, so in the future I'd probably just buy one of those instead.

Nice to see my lamp shade on OP's pic

>>1771941
getting used to my cr2 too now i really like the basic stock they deliver like frame and stuff but there is the big BUT...
so far the firs things i am going to "upgrade" are the fans, hotend fan usually makes loud rubbing noise for the first 2-3 minutes when i turn the printer on for the first time on any occasion / per day
this started from day 3 on and at that point i printed one benchy some bed leveling test crap and some tiny flat test shapes to check it out
dont get me wrong performance was breddy gud
manual bed levelling was ez and first results were noice except some seams on the benchy ( which are now 98% removed after tweaking jerk and acceleration )
as fan noise goes the control unit is atm the loudest thing while printing and definitely needs some tuneing
probably going to put larger and more silent fans inside probably going to put the mainboard and psu into a new case sort of like the cr10pro type at the same time going to change the mainboard from 8 to 32 bit
and there is the most annoying part i can criticize at the cr10v2 , firmware has glitches , it crashed while tuning parameters so i had to restart the printer
havn't tested the temperature runout yet but some reviewers poitned already out it was disabled in the stock fw so...
later on going to install 6 linear rails as replacement for the rollers as well as some minor tweaks like teethed belt rollers and probably proper belts yea basically rebuilding 70% of the machine xD
kind of retarded but its my first printer so next time going to buy some 2040 and the rest to save some shekels now that the magic veil has been lifted for me

>>1772278
okay speaking of the firmware, does the filament run out pause still cool the bed or did they fix it to keep temp? damn finding a decently priced Katherine format printer thats quiet and won't burn my house down is hard

Why did this happen after 6 hours?
>Anet a8 (no bully)
>amz3d pla white
>45 bed 210 extruder
>30 mm/s
Is this slavagable? It's gone up tooany layers before I noticed I think but I was thinking maybe decreasing the z axis height and keep goIng because this much height loss might still work out okay

>>1772211
>I'm trying to make a part look like aluminium.
You're not going to be able to do that with aluminum powder. The best results I've managed were with silver primer intended for use as on miniatures. Those specific aerosol cans spray much smaller droplets than normal spray paint cans manage so you can apply much much lighter coats on rougher textures.

>>1772318
Your skirt and the sides of your print look awfully wavy. Is it supposed to be like that, or were you printing something smooth/circular?

>>1772358
Well it's not the best printer to start off with but yeah, the full part is a circle and I'm printing it in quarters. Everything seemed fine up to that point and then it just started string all over the place. I just have it cooled down and paused right now.

>>1772361
I don't know anything about your printer, but surely it should be capable of simple curved lines, right?
Are you certain you're not overextruding? Are there settings in the machine that you need to calibrate like X steps/Y steps/etc?
The skirt also looks pretty thick. Are you sure the bed is not a bit too low? Have you done a leveling test?
On a side note, the print bed looks like it could use a cleaning.

>>1772363
Well you can see from the picture that for 6 hours it was perfectly fine with printing curves, I'm not sure what would have caused it to stop. I haven't done a leveling test for a while so maybe that's it? I think the bed is pretty close to the extruder now, I had it a bit lower because I was using wood filament for a while which seemed to work better kind of 'squished'. I could calibrate the axis, could something have caused them to to shift mid print upwards or something?

Yeah beds dirty but it hasn't been affect bed adhesion so far and it comes off pretty easily so I haven't been too worried about it.

>>1772365
>for 6 hours it was perfectly fine with printing curves
Based on the picture, it looks to me that for 6 hours it was printing fucked-up wavy walls instead of smooth, curved walls. Look at the texture on it, and the way the light reflects off it. Even the skirt looks wavy/uneven.

>>1772389
I'm not super concerned with wavy walls unless they are the reason for it failing when the 3 other quarters of the circle printed just fine, depending on your definition of 'fine' I guess. If the walls are the reason then I can start looking for ways to fix it.

>>1772395
>unless they are the reason for it failing
If they're not supposed to be wavy, and they are wavy, then I think the place you should start is fixing that, if you can. It's something that is happening that shouldn't be happening, which sounds like a problem to me.
If you fix it and try the print again and it still fails, then you can start looking for other issues, but it's what sticks out to me.
Just because a print doesn't fail immediately due to some issue doesn't mean it won't fail eventually because of it.

Other things you can check are leveling with a leveling test, or extrusion by marking a piece of filament and seeing if the extruder pushes it the correct distance when you tell it to extrude a certain amount.

>>1772398
I guess the best move to fix wavy walls is tightening the belts which I haven't done in a long time. I'll try releveling it, cleaning the bed, testing extrusion (which I've never tried before) then maybe tightening the belts last. I don't think this is a temp or travel speed issue

figurine thots assemble

>>1772104
Phone cases

>>1772415
are there any good resources for starting out on printing figures or models (ie. gunpla style, not necessarily gunpla themselves), or if 3d printing them is even the best option (and not using 3d printed parts to make molds or something instead for a better finish) ?

>>1772429
phone cases are boring as shit

>>1772494
I don't know about gunpla specifically, but tomb of 3d printed horrors on youtube is a great great for printing out figurines and terrain. they even have a cura profile you can use for great results

>>1772565
>great great
great resource, sorry

>>1772284
have not had it intentionally run out yet because i was inside a larger print already yesterday but just a minute ago i used the change filament function for the first time
i believe its supposed to show the time the print already took until it got paused but the display only shows %h %min
i guess instead of % it should show the actual time
when i managed to realize that the extruder only retracts the filament a bit and that i had to pull out the rest and switched to the new filament i noticed the nozzle had cooled down
the menu is derpy its supposed to read something like click to resume but some letters were missing
when the large print is finished (tomorrow) i am going to start a small one and cut the filament off so it actually runs out going to check if the bed is going to power down or not and rereport
resumeing the print was derpy too i just pressed the button since nothing happened except the printer was extruding like crazy and nothing could seem to stop it ... eventually after 20 cm of extruded filament it resumed ( not sure if this is automatic or my sperg on the clickwheel did it )
anyways new mainboard and different firmware will be ordered later on or tomorrow

>>1771918
Is it particularly dubious to buy a used 3D printer? Found a guy near me selling an Ender 3

>>1772652
Yes, you don't know how it's been treated/setup. Especially if this is your first printer, you have no idea what you're getting into.

A new Ender 3 can be had for under 200 USD. Unless you're getting it for less than 100, I wouldn't bother.

>>1772653
Hmm okay thanks
It was 130ish. Where are you finding it new for less than 200? I only see 250.

>>1772654
Haggle down to at 120 max if they really are 250 in your country. Where are you at?

>>1772656
USA, We don't really haggle like that.

>>1772657
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32952565613.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.2.42f04025zCKNGa
Here's one for 209 with free shipping, can't seem to find them any cheaper in the US with both free shipping and from a reputable seller.

I'd try and get the price down, or at least figure out some way to see it running. Ask what mods the previous owner has done, some ill-executed ones can make proper setup a chore.

>>1772657
yes we do, at least in texas
haggle to 100

>>1772656
>>1772660
he doesnt know what he's saying. ender 3 pros are available from creality 220 shipped right now
I'd hate to use a used cheap printer, its starting to reach the point where the price is cheap enough not to care, but spending under 200 for a printer still is generally a bad idea.
if it was an a8 I'd tell him to run far way but enders are ok I guess

both my ender 3 pros just shit the bed and are no longer heating
they now have that burny electronics smell and the insides were filled with some glue like shit
I took both hotends apart and cleaned them out all right proper, but they still wont heat anymore

the fuck just happened to them and why can I not unfuck it
I did have them both do 200 hour prints, so I'm figuring I burnt something out

>>1772662
Do they still read a normal temperature? If not, broken thermistor.
If temperature reads fine, and heating elements do not function, you burnt out the the heater cartridges. Simple part, easy to replace.

>the insides were filled with some glue like shit
Did you melt the PTFE part of the hotend? Did it smell like cancer?

>I took both hotends apart and cleaned them out all right proper, but they still wont heat anymore
Sounds like broken heater cartridge, possibly due to exceeding any kind of duty cycle Creality might have thought of (200 hours is pretty damn long). Get out a multimeter, and start checking if the pixies still flow.

>>1771999
dude just post a picture

>>1772668
The PTFE didn't look melted, and I've only been running it at 207c, so it shouldn't have gotten hot enough to fuck it

>>1772278
>rebuilding 70% of the machine xD
i really don't get this, mindset
you buy a cheap striped down machine and spend what you paid for it on (useless) upgrades
beware of the upgrades anon, this is a bottomless cashpit. I mean linear rails? whats wrong with the rollers

The CR10 is likely fine as it is BUT like with all china printers, performance greatly depends on how careful you put the piece of shit together

way to go with china printers is to NOT throw cash at them

>>1772661
>yes we do, at least in texas
From retailers?

>>1772710
>found a guy near me selling an ender 3
>retail
eh?
I thought you found one of those craigslist ads for a printer

>>1772715
I did, but other anons said that it retails new for 150 if you haggle

>>1772721
oh, no how do you haggle an online retailer?
like, the only time I even talked to one was a french retailer that mislabeled the price of their headphones and refunded my canceled order a week after.

has anyone had good experiences with Prusa's multi material upgrade?
it looks really neat, and it a hell of a lot cheaper than the palette

>>1772800
Yes, but it has some tricky bits that really need to be polished before it's as bulletproof as the rest of the printer.

>>1772284
checked it a minute ago and yes as the filament runs out the print gets paused
all teperatures are set to 0 nozzle as well as hotbed
also the firmware does not seem to give the ability to use the change filament / retract function since there is no "tune" ability in the menu only "prepare" and "control" i proceeded to simply feed the cut-off filament again until it reached the extruder gear
otherwise i assume i would have had to use force to manually retract the piece out of the tube etc
i guess a direct extruder made it on my list of "upgrades" as well now

any of you guys run the printer at higher voltage than rated?
like turning the PS up to 26 volts for example

>>1772899
Why would you do this? This fries the electronics.

>>1772909
all electronics properly designed can handle 10% more voltage than stated (or less)
26v on the ender 3 would give the bed 30w more power

>>1772617
>>1772897
damn thats pretty dumb. i thought it would have at least been able to do it since my anycubic can at least do it. and its using the same firmware from the factory

Guess the number

Don't do clear resins

>>1772948
yeah firmware seems to be uncooked
it works but i guess they should have done more quality testing
it is the latest version with bl touch support
going to try the e3d version in the next days while i wait for the new mainboard

>>1772953
why not ? could you tinker something like a one led plus button cell battery in the stand so that when you switch the light on the model gets illuminated ? i can imagine this would look great when you paint them as well and only leave some parts like eyes hair or the swords blade clear

Anyone know if the ender 3 can handle glass reinforced nylon filament?

>>1772987
yikes. for as much as they charge for it, youd think theyd have at least thought that feature through. id hate for it to pause the print then as soon as i get new filament in the print unsticks itself. also, how do you feel about the runout sensor being so close to the extruder? it seems like a bad spot since if you run out of filament, the end of the filament will be in that little gap between the sensor and extruder so you really can't pull it out to feed in a new spool.

>>1772953
Don't be a spamming no talent weeb.

What would help in getting rid of these gaps in the outer wall on sloped surfaces? I've noticed that putting in some extra prime amount after retraction helped a bit but didn't get rid of it. Changing the outer wall line width? Slowing down outer wall speed? Increasing flow? Printer is an i3 mega by the way.

>>1772995
yep its my first 3d printer and i got a bargain so its not that bad desu
ye... runout sensor, i saw this before in a review video but i thought
meh never gonna print something when low on filament but now the ocd kicks in
with direct extruder there wont be any problem like this i guess
but when you fix one thing something else jumps into view
definitely need to have some linear rails those roller bearings are getting a little annoying

>>1773140
More perimeters, looks like it's sagging into emptiness

>>1773267
Would it really need more than 3 perimeters? Just looks like it's not fully extruding for some reason. I had the flow rate set to 105% with that print too.

>>1773278
The steeper parts might still need extra support (look at the very left of your screenshot, looks like the 3 perimeters aren't quite cutting it and the yellow starts to show), but it might also be defective filament (slightly narrower in one spot, compounded across multiple layers). If you can see into the part or if you can poke something in between the layers, though, it's not thick enough in that area.

>>1773301
Would increasing line width from 0.4 to 0.42 help at all? What about increasing extra prime amount (at 0.5mm right now)? 'Cause it seems like it only happens on parts of the print where it recently did a retraction. There are other parts of the print with the same or even shallower slopes that don't have these gaps.

Is it normal for the top surface of a 3D print to have ridges/raised lines on it? It's "smooth," and I've verified that there are no actual gaps in the layer with a microscope, but if I look at it under the light it definitely looks like raised lines, and running my fingernail across it makes a distinct "playing card in bicycle spokes" sound.
It's as though the lines alternate in height, or are much higher in the middle than they are at their sides where they meet each other. Obviously this can be fixed with ironing, but I'm curious whether it's actually an error at all.

>>1773013
Who needs talent when I can print talent using technology

>>1773305
Also in case it helps, here are my retraction settings. Also showing a part of the model where it didn't have gaps in the print itself

>>1772953
I have an entire roll of transparent polysmooth filament. I need some dnd related prints to make with it

>>1773355
dont talk to the SLA faggot about dnd or /tg/ shit, its his trigger.

a few threads back there is a link to the ripping discord with the heroforge downloader and a zip of some paid model packs.

>>1773355
Creatures like oozes, elementals, and stuff like torches (with LEDs inside), waterfalls, or other terrain might be a good idea

>>1773364
Oozes are pretty easy to print with FDM...

If my Z-seam is uneven (curved/zig-zag instead of straight vertical line) what could be the cause of that? Belt tension?

>>1773345
>who needs talent
You do; those prints look like ass, you've got support nubs that need to be cleaned up and the bow girl doesn't even look like she printed correctly. Come back when you've printed something with a face count higher than double digits.

>>1773345
Those look like dogshit tho.

>>1773401
binding z axis

>>1773527
What does this mean, exactly? The printer does not move when/as far as it should when it tries to move along the Z-axis?
How would that affect where a layer is started/stopped on the X and Y axis?

do I actually need a delux filament holder?
Ive got the ender 3 stock and i wonder why everyone prints a delux one with bearing etc.

why is this happening?

>>1773554
you don't need extra hardware but you do want to relocate the spool holder from the top, i'd suggest printing this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3313179

>>1773561
thats clever, i steal the integrated slot and do my own (backward) version

Does any of you Ender anons run S-curve active in marlin?

>>1773560
no walls

>>1773140
>>1773278
>>1773353
need more roof layers layers

>>1773697
As in what cura calls top layers?

>>1773703
Also, I noticed that the setting for doing a retraction before starting the outer wall had been checked. Since I suspect that the retraction is what's causing these gaps I'll do my next print of this model with that off. I'd take some blobbing/zits over gaps to be honest. I'll try increasing the perimeter count to 4 and decreasing outer wall speed too.

>>1771918
>want to print Glass filled nylon
>have stock ender 3
Alright guys, what do I need to be able to print this material? So far I've been looking into a new E3D V6 hot end and a hardened nozzle. Do I need anything else?

>>1773560
It's support so the print doesn't fail due to the laws of physics

>>1772318
Looks like something got loose. Something similar happened to me, turns out the screws holding the hotend had come loose, the quality got worse layer by layer as they did.
Check and tighten everything. The wavy pattern suggests your printer is as rigid as jelly. TL smoothers might help.

Not printing but is there any economically practical way to accurately 3D scan at home?
Is photogrammetry the only way?

>>1773808
filament manufacturer?
in general: yes, pic related
http://www.eumakers.com/en/nylon-glass-fiber.html

>>1773818
Very clever. It's two .stl's i combined in blender, after slicing the helmet disappears. I guess i need a way to fill the interior but i'm lost.

I want to print this gost to 40mm nato adapter
its just some male threading on one side and female threading of slightly varing style on the other.
What sort of print settings should i change/use for a better chance of success?

>>1773899
well first of all find a better adapter, the nato threads should be curved, not screw-like or you wont get a seal

I'm not modeling more stuff badly until I can combine lofted surfaces correctly

>>1773872
>in blender
you can use the remesher, it gives you a readytoprint file.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R29yw8-ArgY
if the results are really bad try to join them in Meshmixer, it is Autodesk but it's free.

>>1773920
Remesh in blender worked well for this simple model, thanks! I'm still awfully noob, blender's complexity is a bit overwhelming at times.

>>1773867
>filament manufacturer?
SainSmart

okay so no need to buy more stuff for the printer. just tweak the settings in CURA.

printer just "finished" a 2 day print after 34 hours...
98% ... 99% aaand the print is half done
printhead doesnt even reset to final resting place
it simply radiates heat there right in the middle of the print...
wth

>>1771918
Fuckit, I'm done with ABS.
Every single time it's like three false starts before I can get anything vaguely functional and even then it's still curly.
Just PLA and PETG for me now.

>>1773356
Does anyone have a link to the ripping discord? I searched the old threads, but couldn't find anything

>>1774180
you cant send discord links on 4chan I think and since they're not permanent it wouldn't help
here is the forum, its the most permanent link you can prob get, so remember "ninjaripper" if anyone needs to search back for this in the future.

http://cgig.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?t=224&f=5

/r/yd91a4k4 for the /tg/ archive

is it possible to force cura to put a line even in spots where the model is thinner than the line width?

>>1774189
Thanks

How long can PLA spools sit out in the air before I have to worry about the moisture ruining my prints?
Do I need the fancy vacuum bags and shit if it's just sitting on a shelf for a few weeks?

>>1774230
PLA wont decay in air for years, just keep it away from sunlight, same with blue painter's tape.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CTrG7OAlsEA

When will they release a 32bit i3?

>>1774154
only reason you'd want abs anyway is for sandability and temperature resistance

>>1774124
should have bought a prusa

>>1774290
okay josef

Is this the ideal combo ?
One with 0.8mm nozzle and 3mm filament diameter for decorative/little enclosure for electronic projects, fast big print
One with 0.2mm nozzle and 1.75mm filament diameter for functionnal and accuracy print (gear, bearing, etc), slow small print

I'm in the market for an Ender 3, is this a real sale or is this one of those sales where they just pretend it's on sale but actually it's the normal price?

>>1774325
3mm filament is ackschually 2.85, but I'd pick 1.75 even for the 0.8mm bits since it melts quicker due to the lower ratio between volume and surface area. Simplifies the logistics as well.

>>1774327
Screw Creality's own website, you can save some dimes going through Aliexpress.
>https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32952565613.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.2.42f04025zCKNGa

>>1774329
>3mm filament is ackschually 2.85, but I'd pick 1.75 even for the 0.8mm bits since it melts quicker due to the lower ratio between volume and surface area. Simplifies the logistics as well.
mmh, i'm going to look around and see what people say about the 2.85mm

>>1774331
The only advantage to 2.85mm is that an absolute error in diameter accuracy is relatively smaller (and thus results in less inaccurate extrusion) than with 1.75mm. You'll never notice the difference though, for practical purposes it's nonexistent.

>>1774333
alright, and the 0.8mm nozzle for decorative/box prints only isn't a bad idea right ?

How flexible is an ABS print? Like say I wanted to make a ball/socket joint, I make the ball, I make the socket with some slits in the side. Is the ABS going to be flexible/elastic enough for the socket to bend open, let the ball in, and close again?

>>1774335
Depends on the hotend, some can't deal with the added extrusion flow. I've seen stock Mk7 types crap out with a 0.8mm nozzle, 0.4mm layer height at a respectable printing speed.

>>1774336
Not very, use PETG.

>>1774329
Cost is the same for us burgers

>>1772915
True but you will reduce the lifetime of your printer by more than 10%

>>1774290
>prusa shilling...
...when the slicer is faulty...
this >>1774311

When do you think covd-19 will start to effect our hobby? I'm talking a filament shortage.

>>1774474
nah, there are local dealers and months of supply for this niche hobby.

>>1774475
kk

I bought an Ender 3 on Craigslist, but it came with Marlin 1.1.x. I'd like to upgrade to Marlin 2.0.x to hopefully fix an issue I'm having with the BLTouch V3 occasionally retracting before touching the bed, but I'm not sure what settings I should take note of so I can reinput them after flashing the new firmware.
Is there maybe a guide somewhere that I should follow?

any you fags design a spool holder? I got a temp fix but don't want to be stuck with it

>>1774897

>>1774898
>>1774897
all spool holder designs are shit

>>1771918
How's this first layer? Too low? Too high?
How do I get it right persistently? Do I buy those measurement paper cards?

>>1774899
tell me about it
>hey lets just put a flat piece of aluminum to hold the spool yeah itll be fine

>>1774906
looks like overextrusion

>>1774906

Too low, overextruded, or both.

No idea about no "measurement paper cards". If you mean feeler gauges (pic related), you can either do that, or get a dial test indicator and make a mount for it. Feeler gauges take some practice and aren't going to be as accurate as a dial test indicator, but are cheaper and don't require any fuckery or additions to the printer.

You could also go without both and just do levelling test prints, but I really don't feel like saving the few dollars on a feeler gauge is worth it.

A leveling probe is also an option, but is the most complicated to set up. And, honestly, they're just a crutch for shitty beds, at least at these scales.

>>1772211
Assuming it's mostly decorative in nature, get an airbrush. Give it a few light coats of black primer, and then once that's dry give it a few coats of a quality aluminum airbrush paint (Vallejo has one that will do the trick). The airbrush will give you a much finer coat than a rattle can will.

>>1774922
Thank you, I will install a better bed (do you recommend a glass bed like this aliexpress.com/item/32888572770.html) or an ultrabase glass bed aliexpress.com/item/4000107093427.html or something else entirely?).
I will buy an indicator like you said, and some feeler gauges just in case I fail to set the indicator up.

>>1774971
I'm going through the the threads and see that snap-fit lids are a pain in the ass - the tolerances are too small!
One guy made a monitor cover or something "after four tries".
Me myself, I made a box with a lid that was 0.1mm wider than the box, managed to snap it on but it's so tight I could never take it off. Made it 0.2mm wider and there is absolutely no friction at all.

Now I'm using screws and nuts. The tolerances are an order of magnitude bigger and everything works, but it's not as good, of course. Unscrewing a box is not ideal.

Is there something in between, tolerance or ease-of-making wise with an Ender 3? Like, a large printed screw? Or maybe a gradually narrowing top and a sliding down cap?

>>1774995
>0.2mm wider
>no friction
Boy, do I have the stupidly dense and information filled book for you, pic related. There's decades of work that's gone into finding EXACTLY the spacing you need for different kinds of fits (friction, interference, sliding, loose, others) for various material sizes/diameters/etc. and it's compiled reasonably nicely.

anyone have any core xy printer experience? I'm looking heavily at the Tronxy x5sa pro. Also, is 3dprintingtbay dot com a good website or should i stick with amazon on this even though its going to be $70 more after tax which the 3dprintingbay does not charge.

>>1771941
I've recently gone from a Wanhao i3V2 to an Artillery Sidewinder v4.
Quiet, like quiet as fuck.
For the first few prints I found myself looking over to make sure it was actually printing because the i3 was drowning it out.
The i3 is now a dust gatherer in a corner and the SW is my main workhorse now.
There's no way of finding your total print time, but I estimate around 2000 hours since delivery in late October.
I've not had to use hairspray or painters tape on the glass bed, the dimples really hold everything in place, so much so I have to allow everything to get back to room temp before attempting to remove a print.
The only thing I would change is the pain in the arse spool holder, you need to fuck around at the back with 2 bolts you can't see to adjust the width to accomodate spools.
For £320 I'm really happy with what it's capable of.

pic related, cigarette case printed at 0.06 layer

Let's hope better equipment (glass bed and indicator) will compensate my incompetence. I'm probably messing up the bed with razorblades when I remove stuff, alongside atrocious bed leveling.

>>1775016
Holy cow, this thing is a beast. I'm glad I'm a code monkey, I can barely read a datasheet, this thing is enormous.

>>1775025
This image helped me no end when I first started printing.

>>1775025
Also download any one of the bed levelling objects on thingiverse, print it slow as hell and adjust as it goes.

>>1774971
>do you recommend a glass bed like this

I recommend a glass cutter and the cheapest picture or mirror you can find at a thrift store, or ask a glass/window place if they have any scraps for you to experiment with. You can easily get multiple beds worth of glass for <$10, either way. Even new glass is pretty cheap. You'll hear/read plenty about how you "need" a borosilicate or tempered glass bed, but...you really don't. I'm not aware of any 3D printer that can heat its bed fast enough to cause thermal stress problems in regular glass, and the Ender certainly can't.

Disclaimer: I print PLA almost exclusively, with some PETG every now and again. The latter is a bit hazardous on glass if you get the first layer wrong, as it may end up sticking so well that chunks of glass come up with it. Had that happen once, but, for how little I paid for the bed (found an empty picture frame laying next to the dumpster at work, got 6 bed-size pieces out of it), not like I really cared.

You may want to look into steel, if you REALLY want some good stuff. Shim stock (spring steel) makes an excellent bed material, though its flexibility means you need a reasonably flat bed to begin with. And, while not super expensive, it's not cheap.

>>1774995
>snap-fit lids are a pain in the ass - the tolerances are too small!

Depends on what kind of fit you want, and the geometry the snap is attached to. The more flex you have at the snap (say, if it's at the bottom of a lid with a long lip), the more leeway you have.

For something like >>1774971, I would use a threaded lid. Jar/bottle-style threads are very forgiving. If they mesh, at all, odds are good they'll hold well enough. Pic related. Cap's only ~16mm across, still printed fine on my poorly-tuned MP Select Mini with a bent Z screw.

I made a V2 of my musical instrument. It isn't fragile like the earlier versions.

>>1775062
https://voca.ro/aOR2UPCVRYe
Tuned in D(low) A D

I'm experimenting with chord shapes now.

>>1774897
I'm using this on my Ender 3. Not my design.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3209211

>>1774906
The roughness/stippling typically indicates being slightly too low, but it's pretty severe in your case.
Personally, I'd suggest running an extrusion test and then adjusting your leveling, assuming the test comes out okay.

>>1775064
Sounds kind of like a cross between a banjo and a ukelele.

>>1775072
I copied the design of a Dulcimer Guitar, an Appalachian instrument, but mine is fretless. It uses banjo strings. It is technically still a prototype, but it is practically done.

TL;DR: the box works, source: https://termbin.com/q0ra
The design looks okay.
The original box is 10mL.
Then I raised it from 8mm to 10mm and doubled the radius. Now it's 50mL and much more usable.
The nuts barely hold it, only a couple turns each, but the lid doesn't fly off when I drop it on the floor. I will probably replacing the M4x16 screws with M4x18 or even M4x20 when I get a hold of them.
While in the first one the screws barely fit (you have to screw them in), in this one they're almost loose. Thanks to high tolerances both boxes work.
The three metal screw-heads as legs make it very slippery, especially when stacked on top of each other like that. Maybe I can find some rubber feet that will fit. My printer is perhaps precise enough to print feet that once put on won't come off (non-removable snap-fit), but rubber will do the job better.
Not sure how the screw holes are going to hold up over time, they're under a little bit of stress and ever so slightly bent in order to keep the nut tight.
The radius won''t be much bigger with three screws, because already I can make a slight gap by bending in the middle of the screws, but I might be able to stretch it by 10 more mm and still make an acceptable seal.
I'll use transparent-PLA to be able to see what's inside later and much taller screws.
I'll try hinge-screw boxes and jar-screw boxes like >>1775046 said.
I'll also try printing screw-held modular multi-floor box-holders to make racks.
Once I find a good enough design I will mass-produce it (10? 30?) for my currently being shipped and everyday replenished electronics orders (1000s of LEDs, resistors, capacitors, transistors...).
Then I will go back to my 7-segment display, it failed because of multitude of reasons, then big black boxes to make my super-sized relay based simple IC chip-replicas.
So much stuff to do, so little time...

>>1775091
It seems like a hassle to have to fasten/unfasten three nuts every time you want to open/close the box.

>>1775100
It is.
I will be working on different designs (hinge, jar-screw).
I also have an idea less practical and more complicated (pic related), but it shoud look cooler and not require long screws.

My first layer on the bed goes down fine; leveling test squares are solid.
However, if I print a raft, the first layer of the print on top of the raft is too high. The lines don't touch at all.
What could cause this? Is there a setting to control how low the nozzle is over the raft?
I'm using Cura's default settings.

>>1775016
We're talking about 3d prints, the only way to figure out the correct fit is trial and error, there are simply too many variables.

>>1771918
What's the best 3d printer when it comes to printing silicone?

>>1775120
True silicone printing is not yet available for the home gamer. If you really want silicone, you could print molds using PLA or PETG, spray them with plenty of release agent, and cast silicone in them.
A good alternative with be a flexible mateiral like TPU. It's not really a demanding material, just requires a bit of tuning. I've seen some Bowden printers (mainly Ultimaker) do well with them, but common knowledge says you should stick to printers with a direct drive extruder.

>>1775120
no

>>1775124
You seem like you know your stuff. What's the best printer I can get for a 800 to a thousand dollars that can print TPU items and make them look good.

I'm looking for something with large enough build volume to print helmets with.

>>1775176
You could read the OP:
>Under 200 USD: Creality Ender 3 Pro
>Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron, or Qidi X-One2
>Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3 (Mk2 or Mk3)
None of these have a direct drive extruder except the Prusa i3, but that might not have the required build volume. You could cut the model into smaller parts, and then the Prusa would fit the bill. One word of warning: I have never printed very large (200+ mm) sized TPU prints, and I imagine they could become a pain to print reliably. Doesn't have to happen per se, but budget some time and money to get your printer dialed in. By making several small prints instead of one big one and assembling them afterwards, you are reducing the risk of failed prints.
The Ender 3 might be ''good enough'' out of the box if you keep the part size down, although you could put a direct drive extruder on there. If you're going that far, might as well get a CR-10 or Chiron instead, they have the larger build volume you want - and to me, sticking a genuine 100 USD hotend on a 200 USD chinkshit printer doesn't make sense, but might just be worth it on a slightly more expensive 300-400 USD printer. Or you could find a chinkshit direct drive extruder that bolts on, and use that.

tl;dr Probably a Prusa, but you'll need to slice up your model

How do I create a peephole diorama? Can I do it with just a picture inside a 3D printed box? Any tips to make it as realistic as possible?

>>1774474
i only buy made in germany filaments
E3D already got royally fucked, by the time the hemera is back in stock there will be clone designs out there

>>1774971
dude, try fixing before buying
ive bent my ender 3 bed back in shape by hand
the carriage was bent too, ive fixed this on a flat steel with wood and hammer action.

now i got like 0.02mm hole in the middle instead of 0.1mm without adding a ton of weight

>>1775218
No time.
Uni, job, and my hobby is making stuff, not fixing it.

>>1775220
>not fixing it
oh boy, your in for a bad time

>>1775118
If that were the case you wouldn't have service bureaus whose bread and butter is dimensionally accurate 3D prints (+/- tolerances, as with everything else). It's possible to get a print that fits the same way every time if you calibrate your printer well enough and you use good qualiity filament, same as with machining where you make sure your lathe/mill isn't loose and you're not using melted soda cans for feedstock.

>>1775207
set it up in blender first and calculate the field of view and lens distortion of the peep

i still see 3d printing is just as shit as ever, is this technology ever going to get better? i mean you cant even put your prints inside your car on a hot day without it warping and if you dont want that to happen you have to treat it which isn't exactly suitable either. are there anything new on the horizon? when are we going to see cheap resin printers with a build volume of a cr-10 s5?

>>1775227
this shit doesn't work like that

>>1775176
literally mk3

>>1775234
you're retarded but maybe i'm even dumber for answering
PLA gets soft at 60C PETG at 80C ABS at over 100C, if water doesn't boil in your car your prints wont melt either.
Resin printers a shit
FDM machines create plastic parts that are mechanically as good as molded ones in all but one direction, if you can't see the value in a machine that can do that for under thousand dollars then you're a retard

>>1775062
I made a hand drum that doubles as a pen holder. A doumbek. It works too.

>>1771918
>shun the figurine thots
>retarded branding original post contains the most cringe possible figurine
only one of these can occur at one time

>>1775299
We're shunning the printer of the thots more than the thots themselves.

Have anyone of you guys used the Super Gerbil controller and can comment on it? It's actually the Mini Gerbil I'm interested in for my laser but this isn't /2dcg/

>>1775229
Good idea, now if I had just completed that damn donut tutorial...

Which one?

>>1775383

Left

>>1771918
How good is the print quality on the Creality CR-10 s5. The build area is massive but I would also like to get small prints in a good quality with it.

>>1775383
>spending that much on a chinkshit

>>1775439
What 3d printer can you even get that isn't Chinese outside of Prusa? And Prusa is just an Ender 3 but 3 times the price. Like who would pay 800 dollars for a printer with an 200x200x200 build volume?

>>1775449
prusa uses chinese parts too.
e3d's new products are dependent on china.
stratasys is the most you get when you want no chinckshit; there are some really decent small batch german kits with an actually functional needle hotend for nonplanar printing(at the cost of temps and layer squishing)
Companies like flsun(dont buy their kits, just saying), lulzbot, and prusa use large printerfarms and cost-oriented parts to make their printers. the "tax" you get on top of that is the labor and time it takes to make those parts and assemble, not the quality of those parts. a prusa and a creality WILL use the same endstops, shortcuts like the hotend clones and rails are noticeable and are the only real way to compare the quality of a quality to a cheap printer.

RepRap or go German retards.

What's the best support type for the underside of a bowl shape like this?
Cura's default supports made the surface all rough/coarse looking, although the same supports worked fine on flat prints.

>>1775460
Soluble or dissimilar support forming a full shell underneath.
Or print in multiple pieces that snap together.

>>1775477
>Soluble
I've only got one extruder and no soluble filament.
>dissimilar support
I'm not sure what this means.
>forming a full shell underneath
Cura does have an option for "interface support," which forms a solid surface at the point where the support contacts the print rather than printing on the support grid. However, it doesn't seem to work for parts that have constant elevation changes like curves.
>print in multiple pieces that snap together
The model maker actually did include files for the part sliced up into segments so they could be printed and glued together, but I don't intend to sand/paint this and I don't want to fuck up the finish by having different grains or glue possibly seeping out of the cracks.
Pic related is the whole part. I could flip it over and print the portion in question as a dome instead of a bowl, but then I'd need supports for the inner bend of the neck and I'm concerned it'll run into those same surface finish issues.

>>1775460
tree and sand paper

>>1775481
>I've only got one extruder and no soluble filament.
Oh, well, none of my solutions work then. MMU or something else.
>dissimilar support
>I'm not sure what this means.
Eg, PETG and PLA won't bond. so you can print one onto the other and it will cleave off cleanly after printing/cooling. Use one as a support for the other.

>>1775490
>PETG and PLA won't bond. so you can print one onto the other and it will cleave off cleanly after printing/cooling
Neat, that'll be useful for future reference.
For now, I think I'm going to try slicing just the bottom portion off and printing a copy with every support pattern, see which works best.

>>1775497
they're all gonna suck, but yeah, some will be better than others.

>>1775240
>this shit doesn't work like that
Dude, I don't know what to tell you. You're not providing any counterarguments here, and I'm telling you, it DOES work like that.

>>1775383
Two Enders, for dat redundancy. Double the build speed, too.

>>1775419
Workable for most FDM use cases. I have personally had good results with all three printers in the OP (CR-10 S4 & S5, Chiron) by doing proper speed, acceleration and jerk tuning. They just don't print as fast as a tin,y light optimised model, but you can get bog standard FDM results with them anyways if you keep the speeds down.

>>1775449
You could buy an Ultimaker or German Reprap, those aren't chinkshit.
Prusa has more features and relibility.

>>1775458
>muh nonplanar
Absolutely not in state that an end user could hope to utilise it.

> the "tax" you get on top of that is the labor and time it takes to make those parts and assemble, not the quality of those parts.
No.
Actual chinkshit isn't shit per se: it's just that they pump stuff out by the thousands and skip quality control. That means an entire batch could be shit (e.g. Ender 3 XT60 connectors for a while), or an individual unit may be broken out of the box. You shouldn't give a shit, because you just buy two of what's broken and you'll be fine.
The Euro manufacturers generally test and QC their products, and have proper customer service, meaning shit doesn't break as often right from the get-go, and if it does, customer service will fix it for you. They've got a reputation to uphold after all, chinks give zero fucks about that, and both QC and CS may be utter shit with them.
They will use the same endstops, hotend designs, etc., it's just that they aren't tested as thoroughly. Is that worth the increase in price? To a company, yes. To most home gamers? Nah.

>>1775562
>end user
>/diy/
Where do we draw the line between "lol, I download 3d models" and "I like to make stuff myself"?

>>1775562
>Absolutely not in state that an end user could hope to utilise it.
you're right, Ive just been involved in the nonplanar slicer and have been investigating the ideal cooling and printing solution for new extruder designs.

>no
Again I agree with you, "testing" is easier to do when you're sending out your printers to youtubers and using the first batch for a printer farm. QC would have eliminated that shitty ender clone connector BS, but for most people who own only one printer, a DIY fix is fine.

>>1775568
the number of printers you own

>>1774897
>>1774899
>>1774907
Everyone in 3D printing tries to make their spool holder as complicated as possible.

I'm using one piece spool holders for my printers:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2114375
Doesn't get any better than that

>>1775571
Doesn't the extruder have to work harder to pull the filament/unroll the spool if the underside of the spool is just sliding across the top of the holder?
It doesn't have to be super complex, but I think a good spool holder should at least spin in some way.

Fuck blind people braile stl download

>>1775604
>anon having a stroke

>>1775583
>Doesn't the extruder have to work harder to pull the filament/unroll the spool if the underside of the spool is just sliding across the top of the holder?
Not really, the force is minimal compared to the force to push the filament through the hotend. You can try the force difference with your hand. It's even beneficial because the slight friction keeps the spool from untangling itself by spinning freely.

All prominent printers get equipped with friction spool holders (prusa, makerbot, lulzbot, creality...)

>>1775571
that's a garbage spool holder
>>1775583
the friction of smooth plastic against printed plastic is laughably small

>>1775521
but in actuality it does not

Okay, so I was printing miniature bases with my Ender 3 and every one of them came out crumbly and frail. What the fuck is happening here? I've printed several things with this spool of filament before, and all of them were fine. Could it be underextrusion? And if so, how do I fix it?

My first resin print success.

>>1775700
While I was at it, I put a benchy inside a benchy.

>>1775707
>printing a benchy on an SLA

>>1775569
you talking about airbrush nozzles?

Can you get like a sample pack of different filaments, so you can try a part in different plastics to see what works best? Like 100g of ABS, 100g of PLA, 100g of PETG etc.

>>1775698
>how do I fix it?
by googling the symptoms a gorillion ender usered had before you

If I want to print a lot of a small part (like a cylinder 10mm wide, 15mm tall) is it quicker to set up the machine to do say a square array of 9 of them or just set it up to do it once and run it 9 times, taking the piece out each time

>>1775747
Most slicers offer you to multiply the object on the build plate, and then print it one at a time. That's often the quickest, and since you're not printing 9 at a time, switching between objects, you're not just skipping the travel moves between them, you're also getting better layer adhesion and thus lower risk of total failure. Even if one of them fails, the previous units will be fine.

Doing an individual print and running that 9 times means you'll lose an awful lot of time to heating and cooling.

>>1775733
Usually no, I've only ever seen them be in different colours but the same material

>>1775750
>>1775747
Seconding this, well put

>>1775731
yeh the rené jurack clones
the merlin mini by björn marl is the ideal hotend though

>>1775750
how does this work? I'd imagine there's a risk of colliding with a completed print as it works on another?

on another note, what is the best printer for tall thin models? i had my heart set on a Sidewinder since it's apparently fast and quiet but the Cartesian design has me skeptical with what i need it for. would resin printing be better or even a core xy?

>>1775972
There's fields where you put in the height of your extruder assembly as well as the radius and it should auto-arrange to put them outside that volume (at least, that's the way it does it in Slic3r/PrusaSlicer)

>>1775707
foightin round the world

>>1775244
>if water doesn't boil in your car your prints wont melt either.

Well that can't be true because during the summer I forgot this in my car, came back and the thing melted, not completely, but enough to where if i had kept it longer in there, it would have melted a good amount.

>>1775981

The PLA is by atomic filaments, which isn't exactly cheap, the black was by hatchbox. Without treating it, it will melt under the sun if it gets hold enough inside your car and it doesn't have to be hot enough to boil water either. Im just saying, what other explanation would there be because that shit pissed me off, you know how much time it took to print that? It had a very high infill as well. Still pissed about it and its been 6 months or so.

I looked it up, so on that day it was 114 degrees.

https://goodcalculators.com/inside-car-temperature-calculator/

Inside Car Air Temperature: 165°F

Well above the amount needed to melt your prints. Actually it doesn't even need to be THAT hot to begin to melt your prints. Anon must live in teh east coast.

>>1775982
>>1775981
Guess reading comprehension isn't your strong point eh?
As i said, PLA gets soft at 60C, doesn't matter if you wasted a lot of money on it, PLA is PLA, you should have chosen your materials to suit your applications better.

>>1776004

No maybe you are just dumb as you said. You said "if water doesn't boil in your car your prints wont melt either." Which is untrue. Damn you're an idiot. Don't bother replying, I wont be here to read your idiotic reply.

>>1776016
If you had any reading comprehension you'd understand that with water boiling i was referring to ABS that can handle 100C without softening.

>>1776004

not him but PETG will also start to gummy up if you leave it unattended for a long period of time depending on weather.

>>1775981

it would have been easier to have cast that instead of printing it with other types of filament, would have been strong that's for sure.

>>1776021
casting doesn't work

>>1776022

why wouldn't it, plaster can more than work for molds from 3D prints

>>1776024
it just doesn't

I made some test prints to test different support patterns on my bowl shape, and I noticed that the underside of the bowl is deformed for some reason, aside the roughness caused by the supports. The inner wall is fine, but parts of the outer wall don't follow the curve exactly; it looks like they were pushed inward by something, giving the exterior a kind of half-melted look. The effect is present even on parts of the print that weren't directly touching the support structure.

What could cause this? Neither the model nor the layer preview in the slicer show the deformity, so I don't think it's the slicer's fault. But all the tests that I've printed have it in the same place.

>>1776025

It does, Cura has a Mode for making a mold out of your object

>>1776191
>bat heating

>>1776191
Wow, the Chinese are going all out with that virus.

>>1776191
I use my heated bed to dry green onions so I have a constant supply

>>1776191
What do you do when you want to print something?

>>1776245
>forget about bat
>auto home the printer
this kills the bat

you bastards
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZWphqA1Slrw

>>1776514
ah, the E3D toolchanger. The universal solution to every problem, and yet the solution to none.

>>1776028
physics.
Nothing adequately restrains where the extrusion goes, nothing prevents it from warping/curling as it cools, hell, even the cooling fan is probably blowing it inward.
You can't just print into empty space no matter how clever the supports. Clang will find a way to screw you. Prints must be constrained.

>>1776538
>nothing prevents it from warping/curling as it cools
If it was just due to ambient cooling, wouldn't it warp uniformly?
>even the cooling fan is probably blowing it inward
The flow from the cooling fan deflecting upward off of the already-printed support was my best guess as to what's happening. But do you think such an overhang could be printed without the aid of a cooling fan?
I'd like to avoid adding even more supports since they screw with the surface finish so much.

>>1776555
No, because the ambient cooling is not uniform

>>1776514
What's the issue here - the cost?

>>1776557
>the ambient cooling is not uniform
How could there be such a large temperature difference across the few inches from one side of the print to the other that it causes just part of the print to warp? Why would there be an air temperature difference at all? There are no running fans or vents or anything in the room.
Furthermore, how could it be the same ambient temperature differences in the same places every single time? I've printed five such shapes so far and all of them have deformed in exactly the same way, in exactly the same place, in a way that none of my previous prints ever have.

just rewired a 6 wire unipolar stepper into a parallel 4 wire bipolar and converted it from single shaft to dual shaft with a vice - works like a dream. turns out my insane printer noise was from wrong stepper coil impedance (i know it's actually "rated voltage" but rated voltage means fuck all)

>>1774230

In a very humid enviroment, you'll start noticing more pops and brittleness in a couple of weeks. If it's very dry, you might never notice any change.

>>1774995

Just slice off and print only the interface parts so you can tweak the parameters without wasting a lot of time/filament.

I've been doing a lot of twist-lock containers lately.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3921019

I have those generic red A something chink stepper drives on my printer and i want to upgrade them

Is TMC5160 the current state of art in driver technology?

hey lads, have problem printing abs. the layers dont stick, like barely at all. bought new spool (generic) so im wondering if its the material. i printed with abs before and never had issues like that. i even tried printing at 260C and still the print barely holds together. i doubt its the calibration problem cause everything i make with pla (including the extact same model i try to print now) comes out neat. am i right in thinking i bought crap?

How difficult is it to extract 3d models from game files? I'd love to be able to print some monster hunter stuff but i have no idea how

>>1776654
>...but i have no idea how
sad!

>>1776661

Sovol SV01 or Artillery Sidewinder X1? Need a large format printer for an upcoming project.

>>1776616
im by no means an expert but you can try increasing 1st layer flow to at least 110%, bed temperature up, hot bed cleaning with pure IPA and leveling correct, as in z0.1 and 0.1 feelergauge

for sla why is the photon the only entry printer listed. I was going to buy the photon zero but my friend told me to buy a phrozen sonic mini. He also said hed sell me his regular photon for about 200. He hardly ever used it so it seems like a good deal.
Is there something that puts the regular photon over things like the elegoo mars or phrozen sonic mini or even the photon zero.

>>1776854
Photon zero is incredibly new, IIRC it was announced beginning of this year and actually released within the last couple of weeks, so there's probably very little info about it. I think the Zero also has a lower resolution than the default Photon.

>Phrozen Sonic Mini
>two seconds per layer
There has to be a catch, some kind of fast-acting resin or compromise in resolution, that seems unreasonable. Don't know for sure, though.

What software can I use to cut out cubes of a specified size from a high poly model? I wanted to cut specific sizes out of models to make them fit on the print bed of an SLA printer. Tinkercad can do it pretty well, but it has a strict polygon limit and can't handle uploads of the files that I want to cut. I'm on Linux and am able to get meshmixer working at least.

>>1776880
Blender can do that, or I think Maya/3DS as well. Do you need specifically cubes or will an arbitrary number of straight cuts work as well (e.g., if it were divided by an infinitely long blade). Blender's got a Bisect tool which lets you arbitrarily cut models, but I think Maya only lets you do something similar with booleans.

>on Linux
Yeah, try out Blender and the Bisect or Knife tools.

>>1771918
>SLA
>Not the Elegoo Mars

I'm fucking losing my mind. Ender 3. Extreme under extrusion. First layer comes out great but after that fucking under extrusion.

Nozzle is clean
Bowden tube is clean
Filament Diameter is perfect

what the fuck is wrong with my printer?
Could it be the extruder? How can I check if it "works"?

>>1776995
adjust the motor current

>>1776995
Correct nozzle diameter in slicer?
Some past Cura versions had a bug that didn't properly save the nozzle diameter value.

>>1776995
Check the extruder, the plastic extruder assembly is known to break and produce underextrusion because of not enough force pushing the filament against the extruder's gear. Maybe check the hotend's temperature just to make sure there are no sensor errors and you're actually printing at 200C

>>1776816
thanks for the reply, got the issue resolved. it actually was the material. brought back some abs from a visit at my friends and it just werks. guess theres a lesson to be learned here (dont go for cheapest shit you find online).

>>1776995
hey chep here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iXe7bftyMFU

>>1776879
As I understand it, the printer uses a monochrome led plate which speeds it up over a traditional one

>>1777006
its not the material, its your settings

different filaments use different blends of additives and respond quite different to temperature and Flow

>>1776995
Have you calibrated your E-steps yet?

>>1777203
not this anon but i've never gotten around to calibrating my e-steps because all my prints just work, with the very rare over extrusion causing one small bump on a large print. will i gain anything really with calibrating?

>>1777215
It's possible that you might get rid of said bump.
But in the grand scheme, it's not really an issue if you're happy with your prints. I didn't calibrate mine until I noticed that there were more line gaps in my top layer than I'd preferred, at which point I discovered that I was underextruding by 3%.
I'm still not sure that it was actually the cause of my problem, but it's not hard to fix and fixing it certainly doesn't hurt.

>>1777101
Are all filament brands capable of producing equally good prints, provided that the optimal printer settings are used for each filament?

>>1777220
Hell no. Back about 10 years ago when printers started becoming wildly popular for home use, some enterprising Chinamen decided to resell their weed whacker line and plastic welding rods as 3D printer filament - didn't work nearly as well since they had a bunch of things mixed in. These days, you will get some variation on chemical composition between brands, but you shouldn't need to drastically adjust your printer settings for a specific brand of filament, it should Just Werk (TM), though it might look a little off sometimes.

>>1777101
>it's not the material, it's the material
Yeah, they respond quite different to temperature and flow because they're different materials. If you're marketing something as ABS, it shouldn't be ABS and 10% filler and additives, it should be mostly ABS. Obviously there are special cases for things like woodfill or metalfill but ABS shouldn't need to be jacked up to 260C to barely stick to itself, that's functionally something else at that point.

My ender keeps printing these bases with this wavy texture near the top (er, bottom) when it is supposed to be smooth. Anyone know whats wrong? I can't think of what to google for troubleshooting.

>>1777352
That's a pretty distinct wave.
Have you observed it during printing? Is it actually moving the bed back and forth in order to do that?
If so, I can't imagine it being anything but a slicer issue.

>>1777374
That was it, my slicer keeps making the bed wiggle aggressively, I tried printing it with the other end on top and it worked fine.

>>1776995
Does your extruder skip or slip or is it just not turning enough? You can verify this by making a sharpie mark on the bearing to check if it turns.

I had underextrusion issues on my ender because the bowden was not pressed thightly onto the nozzle. A tiny gap had formed blobbing all up.
Losen the clean nozzle by a turn, press the bowden against it and then screw the remaning turn in. That way a tight fit is given.

>>1776997
how would anyone do this?

>>1777203
total waste of time

>>1777352
This is supposed to have happened by accident? Really looks like intentional, those failures hardly ever look so consistent.

>>1777237
>it shouldn't be ABS and 10% filler
majority of all cheap or ebay filament is blended shit and Filament is never pure
>you shouldn't need to drastically adjust your printer settings
i have two rolls proofing you wrong. One is blended PLA, the other mostly pure.
the Pure PLA needs 20°C more
another factor making some filament shit to print is varying diameter, in a small range you can compensate this with settings but if it gets +-0.1 its garbage

>3dp

>want printer
>no idea what I would even do with it
how do I not be such a consumer?

anyone know how can I measure correctly the screw holes on the ,pic related, windscreen, it's bent and hard with a basic ruler
pic related

>>1772255
Did you print that without infill?
How thick is your wall on that piece?

>>1777601
go away

>>1777616
calipers

Just in case you wanna add it to the next first post, resins and their curing time.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1crvzMnt_8NJXAsABinoIhcOjE8l3h7s0L82Zlh1vkL8/htmlview?sle=true#gid=0
and you could add the Mars to the sla budget

New thread >>1777678

>>1777616
If you already have it disassembled like that press a piece of paper to it and sharpie through the holes.
Do again with paper on other side. Compare.

Finished the ds4 padhacking today, little wireless pad is now complete.

>>1775700
wut printer

I want to print and polish some transparent neon colors - something that looks like a jolly rancher. What filament do I want?

What glue would you use on resin prints?

>>1772953
You ever going to try and paint your shit? Or are you satisfied with polygonal, blocky game model rip prints?

Your post on reddit got about as much attention as deserved, don't post on the D&D mini sub with your fap statues.

>>1776654
Look up Ninja Ripper. I used it to pull a 3D model out of Dark Souls 2 and turned it into a stylus holder. Could have subdivided it in Blender to smooth it out first, but I kind of liked the poly look.

wtf didn't my layers stick?

Anycubic Photon
Anycubic white resin
0.04mm layer height
60s first layers
10s exposure

>>1779455
Another failed print.

Was my workshop to cold? Did I forget to shake my resin before pouring? Is my FEP fucked?

>>1779455
>>1779456
SUCTION. There's a reason people reccomend angling your prints instead of going flat to the bed; it minimizes the amount of resistance your z axis has to overcome to peel the print off the bottom of your tank.