/diy/ - Do It Yourself

Reposting from last thread.
Looking around for a sub 500 printer and noticed the CR-10 has two other models in the S and the v2. Are there other updated models of the listed sub 500 printers in the OP, or newer printers that deserve the recommended sub 500 spot too? Thanks.

Also just found the v2 for ~426usd shipped from a local store in my country, which is making me even more tempted.

>the virgin Ender 2
vs
>the CHAD Afinia H200

I hate the "wheel on aluminum extrusion" printers so fucking much. The extrusions are never really as straight as they should be. They have to go.

>Some motherfucker self-inserted the Qidi X-One2 again
REEEEEEEEEE

>>1761978
>the CR-10 has two other models in the S and the v2.
Go for the oldest one with the best specs, generally. New models with new optiosn may have new and exciting ways that go wrong. Creality customer service has been decent as per experience ITT, though, so any mistakes will probably be corrected quickly.
Personally, I'd buy a CR-10S.

>Are there other updated models of the listed sub 500 printers in the OP, or newer printers that deserve the recommended sub 500 spot too? Thanks.
I don't put newer printers in the OP without a few months of bugfixing and reviews because that might bite end users in the ass. Apart from some CR-10 variants, no, there are no new submodels.

>>1761988
>pigshit expensive
For that price, with that small of a printer, I'd expect linear rails and some proper kinematics (Z-bed, XY-head).

>>1761996
>I'd expect linear rails
What do you think it uses?

Plus for that size, "xy-head" is just a waste of a linear rail

r8 my test jig for testing shitty chinese switches

This is before soldering the leds and wires, in the end it actually worked

>>1761978
I'm going to throw Artillery Genius for $299 out there. It's on my first printer short list but I'd like any feedback or thoughts on company or printer.

>>1762018
Seems like CR-10 clone without the Creality brand name attached to it, for whatever that's worth.

Would anyone know of tutorials or information for modding the Volcano Hotend, as well as flashing new software through the boot loader? I have flashed my boot loader, done everything right, BUT, I’m lost so far as looking through the Creality 10 files for where to drop new modifications -specifically.
I have been trying to trouble shoot this and rely on what I may figure out but github and everything has somewhat intimidated me to the point that I haven’t picked up the process in months

why is thingiverse always down? how hard can it be

What's the best mainboard to upgrade to from a stock ender 3 pro right now?
I see the skr mini e3 is a drop in replacement that supports bltouch, but I also see skr 1.3 through 1.5 and I'm unsure what would be better in terms of support and functionality. Looks like the bigger boards just support more extruders/dual z motors.
What do you guys prefer?

>>1762075
>best
Duet.

Anonymous 02/03/20(Mon)19:57:50 No.1762089

At work i sliced a model on a workmates PC with prusaslicer, with MK2 settings, the model barely fit the build height. Turns out the actual machine is an MK 3 (less build height). Whats going to happen when the machine runs out of build height?

I really hope the program just stops and doesnt continue by smearing the remaining amount of filament onto the print....

>>1762075
>>1762077
Duet Maestro should be the most fitting and best bang for buck when you are okay with an ethernet connection. The maestro is compatible with those lcds the cheap 3d printers uses, the Duet 2 Wifi is not.

>>1762090
>Whats going to happen when the machine runs out of build height?
duh, the machine will dilate

>>1762066
It's got 256k so yeah. I've been able to enable mesh leveling and bunch of other extra shit and there's still plenty of space.

The stock board runs marlin yeah, the SKR has a precompiled marlin binary as well with more features by default (thermal runaway protect, mesh leveling).

Also the silent stepper drivers are brilliant.

>>1762075
SKR mini e3 1.2 cheap drop-in and plenty of support for 95% of people.

>>1762109
l-lewd

So is there some tracker for premium .stl files? Would love to print some older titan forge miniatures.

Anyone use Zyltech PLA? Thinking of getting 5 kilos (free shipping at that amount) for $13.50/k.

>>1762192
I do. Haven't had any problems except at the end of the roll (after a year) it seemed a bit brittle and tended to break going into the tubing. It's all I've used though, so can't compair it to others. Overall, Zyltech has been pretty good for me. A lot of stuff for my self built printer came from them

>>1762092
I can run my duet from my phone, so no need for LCD. It's certainly a more comfortable experience.

3D pen guy. PLA arrived. The monkey hood was ABS penned at 210º, the PLA at 175º as instructed.

The ABS was (is) very brittle and cooled instantly. The PLA cools slow enough you can mold it, but that makes it harder to bridge and gap, harder to "air draw". The PLA is better for filling, and can be smoothed with fingers (I've only seen this on YT) or bent into shape- or deformed out of shape by gravity. The PLA was also stringy, maddeningly stringy. Not sure if that's technique or heat setting.

Below are terrain pieces, a stone which needs to be smoothed (I need to get out my burnishing tool) and a log half filled (wanted to show the structure) The stone is my 2nd piece, the log my 3rd.

Everything I've done so far would be 1000% better coming off a 3D printer (look at any printed mini terrain rocks or tree trunks).

I feel a lot better about the pen itself.

/artblog

For now I'll stop posting updates until something interesting comes up.

>>1762132

I am perplexed, /3dpg/.
Been printing on my little ender 3 on and off from a year or so and suddenly had a weird issue with the extruder motor not turning. If I advance the extruder through the menu I can hear the motor kick in, but the gear doesn't turn.
If I have the machine off for a few hours it will come back but stops very quickly into an actual print.
I assume it's an overheat issue? Is my stepper just cooked?

>>1762239
Looks like shit! Well done my dude.

I bumped the wrong thread.

>>1762245
>Looks a hell of a lot better than it did last time after a quick bit of leveling. Thanks to the anon who told me not to put gluestick on buildtak.

>>1762258
that looks much better, good job

>>1762248
first turn it off, unplug and replug the wires for the heater and feeder.

>>1762275
Got a new set of woes, it's spitting out little squigglies that the nozzle is catching and it's knocking my rims off the base plate, eventually turns into a real glob of a mess. Right one's just the rim, left one is the rim with the scaffold.

What do you figure I'm looking at here, does it continue to extrude when it's going from one rim to another? I haven't touched the slicer in a while so I don't know if I checked that option that runs the filament back before it makes big jumps.

>>1761988
>Afinia H200
>chinks ripping off other chinks
Holy shit, I can understand copying the i3, but cloning an UP Plus? I can't tell if that's more hilarious or stupid.

>>1762090
wat? It shouldn't, the MK3 has 210mm, which AFAIK is 10mm more than the MK2, unless there's something non-standard going on

To answer your question, though, the MK3 should figure out the motors are stalled and report a "crash".

Hey, should-have-got-a-prusa-instead-guy, fuck you again, just in case you're reading.

>>1762288
Tried it, got about 3 minutes of normal behaviour before the gear stopped turning again.

>>1761966
I'm a complete noob when it comes to creating anything for 3d printing.
I have an STL file that I would like to make a very small adjustment to, but I'm not sure what program would be the easiest/best to use. I want to simply add a very small square to an already designed model.
Would anyone be willing to point be in the right direction?

>>1762435
I should also add that I seen the software listed in the OP, I'm just not sure which would be the best for someone with zero experience.

>>1762425
Have you tried actually troubleshooting it? When it stops extruding is the motor free to turn? Is the drive gear chewing up the filament? Is the gear loose on the shaft? Had the gear moved on the shaft? Is the tension mechanism fucked or nah? Is the feed tube fucked? Have you swapped that motor with one of the others? Have you checked the wiring for issues? Does it stop extruding in a certain x,y position? Is the extruder temp falling off? What are your slicer settings?

>>1762435
Blender is cheap and custom and is good at handling already existing STLs. Fusion sounds like the best solution if you have a geometrical issue.

>>1762075
buy a a good printer rather than trying to polish a pos

>>1762355
t. seething chinkshit owner

The lines that make up my solid layers appear to have gaps between them. I can see the previous layer through the current layer. It happens on the top, which is apparently common, but it also happens on, for example, the second layer of the bottom.
I don't think this is a result of the nozzle being too far from the bed, because the first layer is solid. In fact, much of the first layer is too close to the nozzle due to a possible warping issue that I plan to look into later. The surface of the first layer is a bit rough due to this.

What could be the cause of the gaps? Cura has a setting to adjust flow% for the top and bottom layers, most commonly used for gaps in the top layer since it sits on top of the infill, but would using that to seal up the bottom layers just be masking the underlying problem?
While I am a bit too close to the bed on the first layer, I don't see how that could cause this problem. Z-steps are all relative, so if the bed is .01mm or whatever too close on the first layer, it'll be that much too close on all subsequent layers as well, wouldn't it? So the print as a whole would be unchanged aside from a slightly squished first layer.

>>1761439
Made it in maya. Which for the record is really fucking stupid, took like 15 hours cleanup so it'd be watertight for zbrush. Original design was also 4 storeys high but I had to resize it a bit cause some of the railings were probably gonna be too thin

>>1762445
Underextrusion? Many things could be causing it, here are some things you can do. Replace the nozzle, raise the temperature a few degrees, make sure the filament flows relatively freely through the bowden tube, make sure the extruder spring has the right tension and the mechanism hasn't cracked or something... You can tell your printer to extrude a certain length of filament, like 10cm, mark 10cm on your filament with a sharpie and check if the length extruded is the same. If it's less there are some ways to fix it, CHEP has some videos about underextrusion.

>>1762449
>Underextrusion?
Would this show up anywhere else on the print? The first layer/sides/infill/supports look fine, and when I print a raft the surface of the raft is perfectly smooth.
As to the extrusion test, when I use Move Axis to "move" the extruder, say, 1mm, does that mean the extruder moves the filament 1mm forward, or does that mean it moves the filament far enough forward to push 1mm of melted filament out of the nozzle?
I can't imagine they're the same thing, given how much thinner the strand that comes out of the nozzle is than the strand on the spool.

printing some minecraft dong

>pulled the trigger on cr-10 v2
Deal was pretty good, I'll be back here in a week asking for spoonfeeding as to how to build it after intentionally ignoring the instructions.

>>1762453
The first and last layers are usually printed at slow speed, you're always going to level your bed so that your first print is perfect, even with an underextrusion problem, you'll lower the nozzle until the first layer is fine. The first layer being fine doesn't means there's not underextrusion, it just means you've corrected for the problem for that layer, but the rest of the print will still have the problem.
>does that mean the extruder moves the filament 1mm forward
Yes, the stepper will move the filament distance you entered, if you have a larger or finer nozzle it doesn't matters, you only care about the entry point. When you have underextrusion, the distance the filament moves is lower than the one entered, this can be caused by the wheel failing to properly grab the filament due to worn out teeth, low tension, a jam at the bowden tube or nozzle... The test at least tells you there's a mechanichal isssue around the extruder.

>>1762435
>>1762438
Blender is fine for editing mesh files. It's annoying to learn how to use, but basic stuff is easy enough to do after a few video tutorials.

>>1762309
>Implying UP didn't just slap their logo on some chink printer.
Would be way less surprising given their history.

>>1762446
Why don't use a tool designed for making things instead of 3d modelling tools? CADs, lots of them

>>1762435
Import the STL into CAD, make additions and export as STL again

>>1762437
I've tried the obvious things I could think of. When it stopped extruding then yes, I would release the tension on the arm to free the motor and there was no change. No the gear was not chewing the filament, as it isn't turning at all when this happens. The gear appears to be in the same position as near as I can tell. Tension arm is putting tension on as expected. Filament still moves through the feed tube freely when manually moved. I haven't cracked open the box yet, but swapping the plug to another stepper had it function as normal. There seems to be no particular spot it stops working, no. Temp is maintained according to Octoprint. I could post slicer settings if you absolutely want them.
I think that's all your points addressed, cheers.

>tfw someone on thingyverse printed out your thing and posted a make photo
feels good

Stupid question. To print I need a starter printer, filament, outlet and a place to set the printer, right? Just that and a USB stick with sliced files? Exhaust fan is nice but not mandatory. Anything I'm missing?

>>1762494
Show us your thing anon. And your model.

>>1762435
To edit use blender, to create us fusion 360
both are free
the reason why you use blender for editing and not fusion, is because if you try to edit an stl file in fusion you will become just another suicide statistic

>>1762438
Fusion is maddening to learn, even with (maybe because of) previous CAD experience. Also I can make stuff from scratch all day now in fusion, i still can't make the most basic change to anyone else's mesh. To add a square I'd give up and make the whole thing from scratch.

>>1762111
>I've been able to enable mesh leveling
You know what is weird about mesh leveling? If you have 1mm between highest and lowest spot on your bed, it stretches your print by about 1mm

>>1762309
That's such a nice looking printer. I want to make a YZ bed tiny-printer like that, but I have no room or time for it at the moment.

>>1762494
I designed a printer and one guy didnt like the direction of the belts and got mad at me.
I think three people still use my xy joiners in their system.

>>1762506
it was me
you're printer a shit

>>1762506
Link or pic for judgement

>>1762522
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2588222
the comments against it are lost in a facebook thread for the printer, there are a couple youtube vids with bits of it tho, also some russian made it. its mostly to do with the position of the joiner outputs not being at the same point as the printer head for the hypercube, but its a simple mod to fix but never altered the quality enough to make me have to mod another part.

oh look a new guy made it https://youtu.be/Kl-a2HSjzGI

>>1761966
>warped bed that a glass plate can’t fix
>leveling wheels come off when spun a certain way
>slant in the x-axis gantry
>extrusion problems and blackened print head
Think its time for a total rebuild.

The wheels came out alright. Should have did the thing where it prints a whole wheel before moving on to the next, I did all four at once and got some minor stringing.

>>1762577
save your time and buy a quality machine instead

>>1762639
did you design those for a mechanical application or for an aesthetic application?

Hey everyone, for the first time in a long time I am stumped with my printer and wondering if you could help me figure this out.

>Prusa i3 MK3
I have not upgraded it to the MK3S yet, I ran into this problem while attempting to print the new parts. The hotend (where the problem is) is a standard e3D v6.

Quick background:
>Thermistor broke
>Ordered new one plus upgraded heater cartridges from e3D.
These ones
https://e3d-online.com/high-precision-heater-cartridges
>All works fine except the temp is a little wonky because I didn't upgrade the thermistor to PT100 which is more suited for the upgraded heater cartridges
>Start printing parts to upgrade printer to MK3S
>Seems to be working perfectly so go to sleep
>Get up and the print has stopped, new thermistor cable is chewed up, new heater cartridge cable has a hole and a burn
>Replace them, try to re-calibrate the printer, now the extruder can't heat up
It just says 'extruder error' or 'there is a problem with the extruder'. Both parts are brand new, and I've checked the connections many times. Now I'm thinking I might have fucked up the board in some way. I've also done a factory reset and re-flashed the firmware a couple of times. Has this happened to anyone else? What should I do?

>>1762643
Should have bought a Prusa.

>>1762201
this, dont need a display, although if you use the default print resume function you're not going to have fun if the wifi only initializes after the print restarts, meaning no way to cancel printing.

>>1762538
I have some extra parts from an old printer, is it worth it to try and build a custom printer such as one from Openbuilds.com? Or is it more of a headache than its worth?

>>1762643
Thermistor cable got chewed up, faulty signal sent maximum PWM into the heater cartridge, which killed the heater cartridge too - hence the fact that the extruder can't heat up anymore, even though the cabling has been restored.
First off, NEVER FUCKING NEVER REPLACE HEATER PARTS AND GO TO SLEEP WITHOUT A TEST RUN YOU DAFT IDIOT. Way to burn your house down, thermal runaway protection on your printer probably saved your ass right here. Thank fuck it wasn't chinkshit with that bit removed, or it would have been RIP in peace for you, anon.

Replace the whole set, again, and then try again WHEN YOU'RE AWAKE YOU DUMB CUNT. If that doesn't fix it, you dun smoked your motherboard.

Sorry if I'm coming across as a cunt, but what you did was stupid and you should feel a bit stupid. Don't do that again anon, there's people out there that love you.

>>1762648
I bet anyone could make a good build out of scrap and steel wire if you use good bearings; most of the problems I've had was with acrylic parts, shaft quality and belts.

>>1762651
I understand your anger, however, I did test it. I didn't mention it, my bad. When I replaced them the first time, it was running fine for quite awhile. I had multiple successful prints. The print that did it in was also a very long print and had already been going for 5+ hours before I went to bed. I didn't mention that stuff so I forgive you for insulting me.

Also, The parts have been fulling replaced, not just the cables. So I guess it has to be the motherboard then? That's not what I want to hear.

>>1762487
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ESNoFuwuAPU

>>1762648
>>1762658 (you)
open builds prob is the best option if you have aluminum extrusion for cheap, most of the electronics (other than the motors, bolts, and rails) per part are cheap enough.
if you can find a good deal or cheap methods for your parts (rma then amazon return a broken kit for more parts than ones that actually broke for cheap hard-to-get parts and a full refund)

>>1762643
Contact prusa support. Maybe they can help you.

>>1762659
Troubleshooting heaters is always a PITA. Do you have a multimeter?

Does the thermistor read a reasonable temperature (room temp)? If so, it's probably doing fine. You can probably heat the block by hand to see if it also reads an increase in temperature, that way you can eliminate the thermistor as faulty.

Beyond that it's probably the heater cartridge. You could check the voltage across the positive and negative ends of the heater cartridge (or on the motherboard itself), on first heating up it should read a significant portion of max voltage. The motherboard will pulse-width modulate (PWM) the heater up to operating temperature, and the first part of that should be at least 6V in a 12V system.
If that's not the case, there's either a hardware or software error with the motherboard. ''Extruder error'' would indicate software, so it might be salvagable. I'm out of my league beyond this, though.

>>1762441
It works fine for me, perhaps you should work on your own skills instead of blaming the tool.

>>1762642
I didn't design them, I printed them for an RC car. I've got the hub size to work with now though so maybe I'll design the next ones.

>>1762667
Thanks for your advice, currently testing with multimeter. I will update when done

>>1762311
>>1762109

Luckily the filament ran out and i could witness the thing.
When finished with the layer at 210mm the z axis didnt move to 210.2mm and started extruding stuff on top of the existing layer. No errors no end-stops triggered....

>>1762494
I posted a thing about a year ago, every other day i get a make notification. Feels good to give.

>>1762494
>>1762721
Wow every other day someone makes it? I've posted a few things I thought were really popular but they've only been made few times each. Make something stupid from the most popular tv show right now and it will do well.

>>1762725
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3576952
I find it so wierd that its so popular yet i spent barely an hour making it for the lulz.

>>1762667
So after testing it appears my replacement parts are just fine, however I found out that one of the 5A fuses on the board was blown. So I am going to replace that and see if that helps.

>>1762728
Good for you though that's more popular than anything I've put on there. They are all things I spent a long time making. Do people ever 'tip' you with money? I had one guy donate 5 dollars once but nobody else has.

>>1762735
Rarely.
I have gotten roughly 30dollar total since the upload, half of that bounced back since thingiverse is shit.

Considering what you say that your thing is not so popular a 5dollar donation is pretty good. And you shouldnt put yourself down, yours is probably a useful thing. People usually dont look for a bracket or stuff to print a gift or something. Tho a cat shaped bracket could bridge a gap between useful and toy.

So is the Prusa steel sheet sufficient for most materials?

>>1762739
Yea I don't think I ever got my 5 dollars either, I remember not seeing it in my paypal. My things are artistic in nature but I'm not complaining. They've gotten much more attention than I expected.

>>1762728
I kind of have a similar story.
I make something just for fun. Basically it was just a test to see if it was possible.
I posted it here in 3dpg, some anons like it, but that's it.
Months later I put it on thingiverse, why not.
One day I am watching youtube, and look at that; my thing featured in a video. And another one, and another one,... Thing skyrockets.
It felt good.
(But also bad, because I knew I didn't make it as good as it could be)

hmmmmmmmm

>>1762752
>cereal numbers ground off
hmmmmmmmm

>>1762752
AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

>>1762754
wew...

>>1762757
Wew fukkin lad.

>>1762728
I like it, will print.

>>1762754
Should have been the material (yellow) been thicker?
Looks like that there there started the failure.

Is there anywhere that hosts copyrighted or whatever files? Like if I wanted to print Warhammer or Warmachine/Hordes or X-wing or something. Pirate Bay for 3D files?

>>1762788
you literally just need to google, and read the op, and lurkmoar

>>1762788
I doubt /diy/ is the right place for premade miniatures and stuff.
You know, do it yourself.

>>1762667
As it turns out, it was a blown 5A fuse on the motherboard. desu I didn't even know those existed until now. It's working again. That's a relief.

The other day I started a print and then remembered that I never changed the nozzle to the correct size. The .gcode was made with a .4mm nozzle in mind but the nozzle on the printer was a .25mm. I started panicking and I was about to stop the print but then I realized that the print was going just fine. Not only that, but it was one of the best prints I've ever done. What's up with that? I would at least expect the extruder to start skipping, not being able to push the filament through as fast as it's supposed to. But that didn't happen, there wasn't a single problem. Is that strange?

>>1762812
sounds like your travel speed should be higher with the larger nozzle

First time trying PLA+, and those are some god awful layers. Same model printed a lot better with regular PLA. Is it just a temperature issue? I've bumped it up to 10 degrees, and got the same result.

>>1762829
im newish but this looks like overextrusion to me, also why is it fine on the right but shit on the front part

>>1762784
thicker as in bigger radius would have made it stronger (see yellow) but I doubt there is clearance for that. Thicker towards the camera also would have made is stronger, even a "spine" but again I doubt there is clearance for more material.

It might have been a flaw, it also might have been stressed when the nut was inserted, or if the nut is tapered over tightened. A too small hole or again overtightening might do that.

design wise I think that sexy billet aluminum is the way to go regardless.

>>1762805
hooray

how 2 3d pint deldo

>>1762858
maybe

>>1762864
cül

>>1762504
That is weird but I'm not nearly that un-level by default so that's nice.

>>1762719
>MK3
>ran out of filament
>hit the max build height
>no errors
>no stops triggered
Anon, there's something you're not telling us, because if you actually have a real Prusa MK3S with the proper firmware, both of those would at least pause the print no matter what the slicer settings are.

>>1762485
>tool designed for making things
>Maya
>not a tool for making things
not that guy, but, what? CAD's not the only way to make printable models, and sometimes limits you pretty severely.

>>1762495
Nope, that's pretty much it. Maybe a bottle of isopropyl and some blue shop towels to wipe down the bed every so often, but that should be about it.

>>1762643
Did you get the proper voltage (12V vs 24V)? Since you said you had at least 5 hours of printing, probably, but still thought I'd ask.
>extruder error
Are the temperatures being reported accurately on the home screen? Sounds like if you replaced all the parts and re-flashed the firmware then it might be the board itself that's gone bad, though I can't say if it's the software or hardware side of it. Inspect the connectors for any signs of melting or damage; sometimes it's difficult to see, but common signs are yellowing of white parts or black parts turning glossy.

>>1762805
>>1762916
Oops, I should have followed the comment chain a bit farther. Though, I'd keep an eye on the next print you do anyway, in case it decides to eat the wires again.

>>1762916
>>1762917
Thanks anyway for the comment. The error was actually 'Preheat Error', in case anyone else has this problem. It was really simple to check the fuses, and even simpler to find them at autozone. Now I feel silly it had me so stumped.

>>1762829
I've been using Sunlu's PLA+ with the same settings that I used with the default Creality spool that came with my printer, it's been working fine for me so far.

>>1762459
I tested with a Sharpie. It doesn't appear to be underextruding, at least on the mechanical side.
I measured the gap between the inlet and the Bowden tube to be 11mm, put a mark on the filament, aligned the mark with the inside of the inlet, and after extruding 11mm the mark had exactly crossed the gap.
Although, this test was conducted after the nozzle had been hot for a short while slowly oozing filament, and was not printing anything. Is it possible for underextrusion to happen gradually during printing as the filament compresses inside the Bowden tube and it gets harder for the extruder to push, or something?

>>1762732
>5A fuse
That's either the hot end or bed, likely the former. That's the easiest hardware error you could have, that fuse probably saved your ass last night.

Hey guys, I'm experimenting with clear resin from Anycubic, but I'm failing badly at getting something remotely transparent. Pic related, these are my piss crystals left to right:

- untreated and let dry,
- UV exposed in a bath of 95% IPA,
- UV exposed in a bath of water,
- UV exposed after a brief dip in IPA,
- UV exposed for half the time after a brief dip in IPA.

As you can see none of these is ideal. Even the untreated one has a yellow tint to it.
The one cured in a bath of IPA is the most yellowed of them all, but it remained mostly transparent as well. It's not as transparent as the untreated one, obviously. The most opaque one is the one from pure water bath. The best one overall turns out to be the one exposed for the least time after a brief dip in IPA, but it's nowhere near clear or unyellowed.

I've printed these at 7 seconds exposure per 0.05 mm layer on Elegoo Mars printer. Any tips at getting these clear prints better or is this resin just shit? I've seen some awesome clear prints here and I'm sure one can do better than these piss crystals.

Hello 3dpg, I'm in need of help.
I'm currently looking at fixing my scooterfender since the outer plastic fender frame or better said plastic parts which were screwed to metal broke off years ago and I need to somehow attach it without using duct tape and zip ties. What material would you suggest for using, it would not be exposed to direct sunlight but since it's a scooter and there's a lot of shaking and bumps I feel that maybe the plastic might brake off.
I initially thought I would go for PETG and even maybe TPU but I don't know how will it hold after prolonged use and I would like to not replace it in at least 2 or 3 years.

>>1762986
11mm is kind of short to measure it considering signal to noise.
Id dismount the bowden tube, make it push 1 meter of filament and measure that. E stepps can be wierd because the effective radius of the drive wheel is not always half the outside diameter.

>>1762908
No, each of those objects are surfaces in maya, not solid models. In fact many surfaces you see in video games are just displacement map textures and flat planes. Printing these things are very hard to do correctly. Raw zbrush/tiltbrush art and sculpts, be it generated from many small cubes or pulled out from a sphere are a lot easier to make printable than maya works in my experience.
I rip vidia models and steal artstation/sketchfab works, maya is meant for computer graphics.

Whats the most idiot proof sculpting software for someone with little experience?
I'm mostly going to be making masks.
I gave blender a try a while ago and I kept fucking the mesh up. That might have been before the big update they did though.

>>1763033
for deadd simple, Oculus Medium and Gravity Sketch are the closest to normal sculpting, but for people without a vr headset I'd take a 2nd look at blender since there are many toolpaths you could take for making a mask, but if you want to sculpt only, zbrush or mudbox would work better. (now both of those are expensive af, I'd recommend 3d coat 3d print, even though its not the best option)

>>1763043
Ty anon.

>>1763009
Anycubic Clear has a known issue with yellowing as it cures. If you want completely clear crystals, you're better off getting silicone molds and two-part clear resin. That stuff looks *great* when it hardens.

The company I work for (a sand casting foundry) might be getting into 3d printing, any suggestions for materials that will be resistant to sand abrasion while still being dimensionally stable? I'm worried nylon will be too flexible. Also i read that nylon and polycarbonate absorb moisture from the air, anyone know if this is true for final prints, or just the filament?
Pic unrelated

>>1763069
Just do lost-PLA casting, it jest werks.

>>1763071
We're not an investment casting foundry, the prints would be for parts of patterns, not the molds themselves

>>1763069
I suppose I could be wrong but I don't think 3d printing is going to change the properties of whatever material you use. It has already been extruded into the filament, so I don't think heating it will change it much more. It will probably be more resistant to those things depending on the shape, but it's nylon before and after the printing. There is a lot of data online about different materials, you are just going to have to look through them.

https://taulman3d.com/index.html
These guys have some cool materials you could look through. They also have data sheets for their properties.

Look into ASA, it seems pretty close to what you need and I've been wanting to try it out myself.

>>1761213

>>1763069
Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene

>>1763072
somethingsomething this
https://www.directindustry.com/industrial-manufacturer/laser-sintering-machine-79963.html
material some metallic thinggy

>>1763069
>resistant to sand abrasion
From common materials PLA is most resistant to sand abrasion. Try sanding it and you will see.
>nylon
As far as I know, nylon properties can change a lot if it absorbs moisture (depends on the type of nylon), and should be taken in account during design process. I think it needs about a week to reach final state and to absorb moisture and then it has it final mechanical properties. This is true for all nylon, not just 3d printed one. In general: more moisture -> softer and more flexible.

>>1763029
Agree

>>1762812
>Is that strange?
Not really.
Although you are pushing molten plastic trough smaller orifice and there needs to be more pressure in the nozzle, as long as you have a decent extruder, it shouldn't be a problem.

>>1763069
PLA

>>1762754
The same thing happened to mine. I just replaced it with a Bondtech clone.

>>1763029
>each of those objects are surfaces
Not if they're manifold and sealed.
>many surfaces you see in video games are just displacement map textures and flat planes
Yeah, I know, which is why you need to clean them up instead of sending them straight to print.
>zbrush/tiltbrush
Neither of those is a CAD program
>maya is meant for computer graphics
Shit, I guess all the people making busts and models that they then print or mold and cast don't exist then? Or what?

>>1763033
Sculptris has been abandoned long ago but is still a decent (free) tool if you want to dick around with something similar to Zbrush

>>1763332
>if
if
>clean them up
yeh, a step not needed for cad or manifold/object based workflows
>neither a cad program
exactly, these are sculpting tools artists use and are far easier to work with for printing. cad is already ready for 3d printing, there is no other step other than exporting as a stl.
>people use maya for the wrong task
briliant observation there, I steal from people who use maya all the time, people who are moving their works from maya to printing are going to have a far worse time than people who work with tools meant to replicate real life sculpting.

>>1763069
PEKK or PEEK might be what you're looking for, or consider carbon-infused filaments/printers.

>>1763348
If you make the models yourself, what's the issue? Or do you only use models other people have made and nothing you've designed yourself?
>I steal from people
No, wait, you're just an asshole

>sculpting tools artists use and are far easier to work with for printing
Don't tell me you think zbrush and the like were intended for use with printing? They've been used for CG and digital art far more often and probably far longer than for physical objects, though there are certainly exceptions

>>1763362
sure, although I steal otherwise unused and unabused items
I come into people's homes just to take pictures of the paintings they already shared.

>Don't tell me you think zbrush and the like were intended for use with printing
don't put words in my mouth, deep sculpting tools and automated retopology are why I'd choose zbrush over maya, but anyone with two brain cells can see how vastly different the use of forming faces with triangles or primitives is to manually sculpting the model out of a sphere.

>>1763362
Not that guy, there's nothing wrong with maya 3dsmax or zbrush if you aren't doing precision printing, you just need to know what you need and export that to meshmixer, autocad is from 1982, lad.

Anyone ever tried printing a shell for RC minicars? I wanna make like a VOTOMS shell or something and slap it on

I'm the anon that posted a 3 stringed instrument threads ago, this time I've designed a harp. It is about 21 inches long or 544mm

>>1763404
Haven't done it but I've had a similar micro RC car. Should be possible to print. Optimally on a SLA.

>>1763407
how do you toon it

>>1763447
he will bent over

>>1762906
The filament ran out 1-2 hours before the max height (i was able to calculate when to watch out for the build height), i changed filaments and resumed the print. The filament sensor worked as expected.

The way the printer deals with max print height was puzzling. No stops were triggered because the software didnt allow the Z axis to increment above the the Z limit. The remaining 5-10mm would have been extruded in the same layer. It would have stopped eventually. When the amount of extruded filament would have caused missed steps or something.

You can say its user error to slice with an MK2 profile for MK3.


>>1763009
Unrelated to the yellowing but oxygen "ruins" the resin during curing. Somehow it disturbs the polymerization and results in worse material properties. Curing under any liquid is recommended.

Yellowing might be casued by not enough photoinitiator in the mix.
Also experiment with heat, it has a great effect on curing.
Too fast curing might be a problem too.

>>1763518
>oxygen "ruins" the resin during curing.
Oxigen inhibits curing. Nothing gets ruined, the resin will cure just fine once the oxigen is gone. Thats why teflonAF makes such a good membrane for SLAs. It lets oxigen through, resulting in a thin layer of resin at the bottom that never cures and thus wont stick.

>>1763573
hence the apostrophes

I am about to start designing an enclosure for my printer with all the bells and whistles. It's going to be way more complicated than it needs to be but it's going to be a lot of fun as well.

Have any of you guys done this before? Do you have any tips or things you would do differently? Thanks for your time.

>>1763407
Make sure you add supporting ribs or it's going to deform like hell when you string it, likely

>>1763651
I will, as ever, recommend the barebones option below:

https://www.amazon.com/BalanceFrom-Puzzle-Exercise-Interlocking-Tiles/dp/B074DSJLLY/

This works for me since it's cheap and works well to both insulate and dampen noise, particularly if there's a paving stone under it. Doesn't have a window, but it IS foam, so a sharp knife makes short work of that if needed. I don't particularly care to view my prints as they're being printed since I trust my printer to not screw up the process, so I don't have a window.

>things I would do differently
Don't get the 1" thick kind, it's overkill and doesn't interlock as nicely as the 3/4".

>>1763105
lol. I just did something kind of like this for my mini itx case to improve cooling. Had a solid 10 degree c drop by isolating air intake.

>>1763014
I did the test with the longer length of filament: It appears to be pushing the filament only 968mm for every 1000mm that it attempts to move. I got this same measurement over 3 different tests, so it seems to be accurate.
How do I turn these numbers into a fix, though? I didn't see any option to adjust general extrusion in the Ender's firmware menu. Do I have to do it in my slicer? Would I just set Flow to 103.2% for all prints to account for the shortage?
Is 3% underextrusion even enough to cause noticeable problems like the ones I'm seeing?

>>1763855
The propper way would be to thang the stepps per mm in your printers firmware. Use cross-multiplication to determine the right value.
An easier workaround would be to change the extrusion multiplier in your slicer.

>>1763033
>Whats the most idiot proof sculpting software for someone with little experience?
https://stephaneginier.com/sculptgl/

>>1763033
>Whats the most idiot proof sculpting software for someone with little experience?
https://stephaneginier.com/sculptgl/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2Lf_RVyQYA

>>1763651
I used the IKEA BROR posts and shelves.
Here are the post:
https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/bror-post-black-00333278/

And bought 2 of these shelves for top and bottom.
https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/bror-shelf-black-30333842/

There is holes on the posts every 5-6 inches so you can make the space between shelves as big as you need or add more shelves. Mine needed to fit a Creality CR-10S Pro.

To complete the enclosure I screwed 8mm twin wall Polycarbonate sheets with 2 walls having doors to be able to remove the printer and one for removing the completed prints.

The enclosure is very sturdy since it's made of galvanized steel. I had to remove the spool holder at the top of the printer since it was too tall but I instead installed it upside down with screws from the center top shelf post at the top of the inside of the enclosure.

>>1763010
Do a little research on lexan / polycarbonate. It's the same material as rc car shells & might be durable enough to be a fender. Also available in sheets if you don't go the 3d print route.

>>1763855
>Is 3% underextrusion even enough to cause noticeable problems like the ones I'm seeing?
ya think?

>>1763785
Interesting I wouldn't have thought to use something like that.

>>1763935
Those things from IKEA might actually be useful for what I'm planning, and cheap too. Thanks for posting. I've been looking at polycarbonate and acrylic sheets for the panels but they seem way more expensive than I thought they would be. Do you know a good place to find this kind of thing for cheap?

>>1763809
>10 degree c drop by isolating air intake
Quite good, wouldn't have thought a shroud has that much effect.

>>1763069
The vast majority of plastics will be hygroscopic (absorbing water) to some degree. Nylon does it a lot. For printing, this is a problem because the plastic's ability to hold the water is reduced when you heat it up. So, when it goes through the nozzle, it's like carbonated soda and you get bubbles in your print. You can drive the water out before printing/casting by (1) leaving it in an oven that's above 100 deg C but below the plastic's glass transition temperature or a while, or (2) leaving it in a dry chamber for a long time. You can use something like silica gel pellets and/or a dehumidifier to make a drying chamber.

Not related to
>>1763069
but does anyone know why people who are into 3D printed gun receivers don't reinforce the weaker parts of the design? Like, I was watching some thing about a guy trying to make a plastic M15 receiver. The place where the butt stock screwed in was super thin and always broke on him. I don't know why tf he didn't just make a metal threaded insert to screw the stock into and then put a fuckton of plastic around the insert. He just kept trying to print the threads directly and only make marginal changes to the geometry.

>>1762908

>>1762485
This guy doesn't know how to use words.

What he means is that there are CAD programs designed to make things with *specific* geometry to serve a *mechanical* purpose and there are 3D modelling programs designed to make *imprecise* geometry for an *aesthetic* purpose.

With stuff like SolidWorks or Fusion, it's easy to create parts that mate together because you are kind of writing a recipe to make the geometry. In something like Blender, it would be a lot more difficult to make parts that mate together in a precise way, since you're kind of just slapping down geometry without much relation to anything else.

Like, imagine drawing a diagram in GIMP (Blender-like) versus writing a Python script (SolidWorks-like) that draws a diagram. You can make pretty pictures more easily in GIMP, but you have flexible, precise, high-level control by writing a script that makes the diagram.

>>1762005
pic of it in action?

>>1764044
>why people who are into 3D printed gun receivers don't reinforce the weaker parts of the design?
Because the vast majority of people who are into printing aren't qualified engineers, so they don't know about the inherent weakness of 3D-printing something that's meant to be milled from alumnium. There are designs out there that take the original AR-15 lower and redesign it so it can be properly injection molded with glass-fiber reinforced nylon (pic related), but those designs aren't public - liekly never will be.
3D-printing gun parts are in their infancy right now and your suggestions to redesign the parts are valid - they just require more time and effort than trial and error, if you really want to do it right and proper.
My main gripe with 3D-printing right now is that people think it can and will do EVERYTHING. It won't. It's a tool in your design toolbox, like casting, milling, cutting, etc., and it's shite for high pressure applications as well as fine threading. There's better ways to do that - mainly with metal inserts.

>>1763393
Or just use Blender and you can both box-model and sculpt to your heart's desire in one single program, interwoven workflow B) #basedpablodobarro

having a vent > not having a vent right?

I mean it's worth it to install a vent before buying a printer, yes?

>>1764057
The fuck are you talking about? literally every 3d printed lower is reinforced to hell and back

>>1764021
It's a node 202. They are notorious for very bad thermals. You are also limited to a very small CPU cooler.

I'm running a Noctua NH-L9A which is only 37mm tall. My theory was that this cooler was recycling hot air from the internal of the case instead of pulling fresh air in from outside. I first swapped the slim fan for a full size which helped a bit. The shroud lines up fairly closely around the case's intake filter and forces the fan to only draw in air from outside the case.

I'm actually so sick of chasing thermals on it that I'm designing an entire new case.

>>1763105

>>1764120
well... I guess I will have to print a cone for the inside too; heavy turbulence.

>>1764044
>does anyone know why people who are into 3D printed gun receivers don't reinforce the weaker parts of the design?

Because they want it to look cool obviously. A large part of the attraction to pewpew is because they look cool and why so many people shoot themselves by accident playing with pewpew.

Properly designed ones look stupid as fuck like pic related and no one wants to play pewpew with them.

>>1764121
What is/are the CFM rating(s) of the fans you will be using?

>>1764121
>>1764120
These type of things don't work without vanes to straighten the airflow.

>>1764112
>I'm actually so sick of chasing thermals on it that I'm designing an entire new case.
I know that feel, atm my pc rests naked on the desk.

>>1764125
I have one with 72.8 CFM (2.4 mm H2O or ~24 Pa) to test it:
https://www.arctic.ac/de_en/p14-pwm-pst.html
>>1764126
>vanes to straighten the airflow
Thanks, I will look into it!

>>1764126
If you're directing airflow to a specific place this is absolutely true. Fan blade geometry can help but the easiest solution is to provide a guide for the air.

>>1764129
Have you looked into fans meant for server cooling? You can find variants that produce around 300 CFM. They're loud but effective.

Turbulence in the wrong spot will be your worst enemy. It will rob you of efficiency and generate even more noise.

>>1764133
Also. If you want to go full retard ditch the case fan and use a brushless motor and blades meant for quad copters.

Mind explaining your project to me? I'm just coming back to diy from an extended break.

>>1764133
>Have you looked into fans meant for server cooling? You can find variants that produce around 300 CFM. They're loud but effective
Not really, I'm just testing what I have for now. Also my main aim is to reduce noise by using bigger fans.
>>1764133
>Turbulence in the wrong spot will be your worst enemy. It will rob you of efficiency and generate even more noise.
True. I'm not really familiar with FEM yet, but I'm reading into it to get it right.
(OpenFOAM / FreeCAD)

And if anyone can recommend some FEM literature...

>>1764135
>Mind explaining your project to me? I'm just coming back to diy from an extended break.
As said above, bigger fan to reduce noise.
>>1764135
>If you want to go full retard ditch the case fan and use a brushless motor and blades meant for quad copters
Funny, as I'm more of an CS/EE guy, I'm actually also playing around with a 60000 rpm slotless BLDC right now. Well, partly designing the hardware, mostly doing the software.

>>1764137
It's been a long time since I took fluid mechanics and dynamics. Have you checked out MIT's open course catalog?

https://ocw.mit.edu/courses/mechanical-engineering/2-092-finite-element-analysis-of-solids-and-fluids-i-fall-2009/

>>1764139
>Have you checked out MIT's open course catalog?
No, I'll definitely take a look. Thanks!

Is my BLtouch just fucked or something? I know the bed doesn't tilt this much on the right side since a folded piece of paper just barely has friction on the left half while a single sheet barely moves on the right side (right after doing G29). I've tried recompiling marlin and readjusting the Z-offset for the sensor but still get this.

The filament sensor on my CR-10S stops detecting filament even thoguh the light stays on and there's still filament in it, why do think this is happening?

>>1763404
Trying to rail off a Lambo Countach body for my 1:28 wltoys K989, but I got issues. The print time is like a day, my apartment's too small to let it BZWEEEEEEEH-ZWOO-ZWOO-BWZBWZBWZBWZBWZ-BWEEOOOOOH while I sleep, and the prints I've paused in the past have been super weak along the pause layer. Maybe I'll post process some strength into it, but I'll post it once it's done. If it ever gets done.

>>1764155
So after doing some reading, a likely cause is that the x-rods on my printer are not perfectly aligned. Means that as it goes from one side to the other the print head tilts. This then changes what the actual z-offset is between the nozzle and BLtouch, but the BLtouch has no way of knowing this changed.
So I guess I'm gonna be fucking with the X rods until the nozzle remains at the same height on the left and right sides of the bed after doing G29.

>>1764172
Why don't you slice it up into parts, like the helmet makers?

I just bought a bltouch. I'm running klipper from octopi on an ender 3.

When I try to calibrate bed mesh my bltouch probes 2 points and the third is out of range:
"Move out of range: 279.000 24.000 5.000"

Here are my offets:
x_offset: -44
y_offset: -7
z_offset: 1.7

and my mesh stuff:
mesh_min: 88, 17
mesh_max: 235, 215
probe_count: 3,3
mesh_pps: 2,2

What would cause a probing point at 279?

>>1764226
mesh_max.x - x_offset = 235+44 = 279

>>1763782
I'll add support ribs.

>>1764172
get some earplugs m8

>>1764172
get TMC stepper drivers

>>1764001
Regular polycarbonate sheets in sizes required to fill the sides of the shelves are pretty expensive which is why I used the twin wall sheets that are used in greenhouses.

Here is a 2 pack for $48.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/24x48x8mm-5-16-thickness-PAK-OF-2-Polycarbonate-Bronze-Twinwall-Sheets/401810504637?hash=item5d8dc5bbbd%3Ag%3A%7E98AAOSwsIBdJRGz&LH_BIN=1

It's a little more expensive at Amazon.

>>1764155
flip left with right

Hi complete noob, was thinking of getting a prusa i3, was wondering can they print warhammer size figures ? also do i need a degree in computer science to design stuff in blender and autocad , thanks

>>1764422
Just use tinkercad nigga

>>1764426
thanks i will check out playa

>>1764137
have you looked into a bigger heat sink? (or if its a part cooling fan I'd like a copy)
I can run my heatsink fan at 50% speed, combined with the tmc steppers I (could) sleep in the same room as it. the cheap ducted fan is loud at any speed and the pulses are annoying at low rpms but I keep it low just to keep the duct from melting when its on. a quiet high speed part cooling fan would be nice.

>>1764422
For figurines you wanna learn blender, for mechanical models you wanna learn Fusion 360, both are free

>>1764457
but only one is "free"

>>1764422
Yeah, it can, but you might be better off with a resin printer if you want characters. Terrain and vehicles is fine with an FDM printer, and you CAN get fine quality with them, it just takes a lot of fiddling about.

Blender's not as difficult to learn as everybody says, but nobody really uses Autocad for this; Fusion 360 would be a better choice. If you want to make machinery or (manmade) terrain, you want a CAD program, while organic models are better made in vertex modelers (like Blender or Maya). It's not mutually exclusive and you can do both in one program, but it's just significantly harder to do organics in CAD unless you really know what you're doing.

>>1761966
How loud are 3dprinters?

>>1764457
>>1764479
Thanks for all the help

>>1764483
Depends on which model, there's no catch-all. Some are reasonably loud that you can hear them working from a different room; mine is whisper-quiet and the loudest noise is the cooling fan. It depends on the steppers and drivers that it has, plus the table/surface you put it on.

>>1764484
Sure thing.

>>1764487
Say for example the entry 3dprinter from Ender for 200 bucks?

>>1764487
>mine is whisper-quiet
you mind mentioning which flipping printer you're referring to?

I imagine chinkshit is the worst.

>>1764488
It's about as loud as an old for matrix printer.

>>1764488
It's about as loud as an old dot matrix printer.

What's a good torch for melting stringing and manipulating models?

>>1764492
Prusa MK3S, and yeah, you're generally right

>>1764502
yeh, german tmc steppers and noctua fans; the prusa comes out of the box pretty quiet.
I'd get a better control board that's 32 bits tho...

a quiet cooling fan really would be nice to have for any printer tho

>>1764460
nobody gives a fuck

>>1764566
their next development of the I3 will probably have a 32 bit board since they already went for a 32 bit on the mini
the 8 bit board admittedly works just fine though

>>1764581
it just works fine; a mastero-prusa mk3 combo would be pretty sweet, but designs like the creality ender 5 and deltas would benefit from 32bit more today. 700$ should get you high end 32 bits tho, not the option for a klipper config.

>>1764585
Yeah i totally think they'll squeeze something like that into the budget of the next iteration of the machine, the rambo they're already using probably costs around the same

Hey /diy/ I come for help

I am working on a firing pin assembly for a cosplay rifle (AR2 from Half-Life 2) and have found a bit of a problem with my design. In the game the firing pin moves horizontally like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CPnmCaO568E

Currently I am using a solenoid to dive the firing pin directly, but this only gives me a stroke length of 40mm (at the limit of using a solenoid). The problem is that I need the stroke length to be at least double that (80-100mm). So, the question is, would yous know of a good way to mechanically amplify the linear motion? So far, I am thinking of using a rack & pinion combination like this https://i.imgur.com/VUa14gc.jpg

I have thought of using linear motors or servos but the issue is that they won't give me the speed or thump I am after

>>1764483
I have an Ender 3, and even without any measures taken to dampen sound I can sleep comfortably while it's printing in the same room.
It's not unnoticeable, though. It's background noise of the same caliber as having the TV on at a somewhat low volume.

>>1764791
not really an expert but the first thing i thought of when seeing the motion you required was a cam but i discarded the idea because the motion range is limited by the eccentricity. The other thing i thought of was the crankshaft/connecting rod/piston system of a motor. Unfortunately it's still bound by geometry but if you can fit a 100+ mm gear in the chassis you could power it with a small electric motor and convert the rotation into linear motion. It'd also save you the hassle of inverting the rotation to go back to the start. There'd still be the whole plastic friction, but maybe you could get away with it using nylon/teflon.

>>1764791
What if you powered it hydraulically, with a tube and some kind of air pump/plunger?

Can I flash a bootloader on my Ender 3 with a NodeMcu (only 3V)?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IkCasLQyT9M
learn blender!

>>1764853
try building, IDK if it works with 3v but if the code runs and you have the pins... there are 5$ microcontrollers like the digispark that has a better chance looking at some littlewire projects
you used to be able to emulate usb protocols on a ti84 to hack a ps3, lots of things are possible if you know to believe
(save 20$ and get a 32 bit board)

>>1764791
Mechanicay increase distance of movement by losing torque.

Think of how a class 1 lever works (a crowbar). Now use it in reverse, lots of increase in speed (aka "thump" factor) as well as increase in travel. You will sacrifice force,but who cares.

is it hard to paint PLA? a buddy swore it's impossible and I want to know before I get into anything. Seems like I see youtubes of people just slapping paint on prints. Thoughts?

>>1764951
isn't it possible to just sand it and prime it before painting it instead of painting on PLA it directly?

>>1764951
>>1764967
It's not impossible, just gotta take your time for sanding and priming. Wet sand it, or it'll melt partway and gum up your sandpaper. Two layers or primer is usually plenty for a good, thick coat.

>>1764951

It's not, you just need to use an adhesion promoter before putting the primer on, like with any plastic. The stuff that's clear and turns the surface matte when it dries.

>>1764983
this, or automotive primer, but go lightly to avoid chipping when it dries

>>1764969
>>1764967
>>1764951
dont sand first, you get rid of all the snot with fire or knives first; then you use a primer-filler with an adhesive if it cant stick, the filler it sand a lot easier and allows you to be able to use files(the tool) on the model without it melting.

I fucking hate Thingiverse. Never seen a website that slow.

>>1765038
i wonder if it has to do with the amount of files people are downloading and uploading

>>1765038
Somehow it's worse in Incognito. I've also switched to pagination so the search results don't keep skipping/repeating like they do on infinite scroll.

>>1765043
No, it's to do with the competence of the company that's hosting it. It's been YEARS since they've had this problem, and it's well-known. You don't just run a *file hosting service* and say "welp, people are downloading lots of files, better do nothing!" for over half a decade. That's like saying it's OK for Youtube to provide only 240p videos to everybody because "guess there's a lot of videos to stream, oh well!"

>>1765055
>You don't just run a *file hosting service* and say "welp, people are downloading lots of files, better do nothing!"
i wasn't saying it's okay that's it's slow because of the traffic, just that it's the reason. how does thingiverse make money anyway?

>>1765062
Alright, fair, I just got a bit heated because the site is frustrating as hell.

>how does thingiverse make money anyway
AFAIK it doesn't, which is nice from a consumer standpoint because no ads or fees, but at the same time there's no motivation for Stratasys to improve the site since the pain threshold is just enough for people to continue using it despite its shortcomings.

>>1765055
use yeggi to search shit on thingiverse.
thingiverse's own search is unusable

>>1765067
this, there is one guy working the twitter account and logs in only to say when there is a scheduled restart of the system or times the site breaks down for longer than 24 hours.

What happened to the guy who was making improvements for the MK3S/MMU2S? You still around? I recently got back into printing with it after a while and serviced it, and... It's still kind of finicky at times. Wondering if you have any tips to share.

Does anyone happen to have the link to the download of all the "Not-nice - winged reptile" STLs that were ripped from the site? I want to print some "novelty candles" but have completely lost track of them. Please and thank you.

>>1765164
nevermind, found it in the archives

It's a shame the people who aren't immediately grossed out by those models are usually turbo-degenerates, I'd love to make some actual miniature novelty candles out of those and give them to e.g. friends or GF for the hell of it, but I don't have the right type of friends for that and no GF

Voron2.1 poster from last week. Good news friends, I fixed the layer shifting issue. Thank you to the two replies, both were culprits. I found a stuck roller as well as the driver current being way low. I also found a stretched section of belt, may have been an effect of the stuck roller or maybe just another cause of my problems. Thanks and I hope to have something cool printed to share as soon as I tackle the stringing issue.

>>1764791
Scotch yoke and a gear motor. Or a gear rack and a gearmotor with an output gear. Then an H-bridge circuit and two limit switches to control the H-bridge.

>>1765176
what

>>1765286

>>1765176
>>1765331
What are they?

>>1764815
Hmm, not sure if I will have enough room for a locomotive type of setup, will have to check it out

>>1764822
Good point, you can get fairly small hydraulic rods, but suspect space will be the limiting factor as I will also need a compressor and tank

>>1764935
Yea, using a longer/double solenoid could be a solution

>>1765233
Ah yup, kinda like a locomotive setup

I've adjusted my E-steps and verified that my extruder is not under-extruding. However, I'm still getting gaps between the lines in my top and bottom layers. I've even tried using Cura to add a top skin with 150% extrusion (pic related), and yet I can still see the layer underneath it through the cracks when I look closely.
What else could the problem be? Would a higher temperature help? I'm printing at 200C right now.
Is this just the limit of surface quality that can be reached without ironing? I haven't tried that yet to see how it looks.

I'm printing hot as fuck for less warping, better bed adhesion, and layer strength, but I think the heat from the nozzle is melting bits of the already printed print. What can I do to prevent that?

>>1765331
I'm more confused than ever

>>1765443
can you turn it down after the first few layers? or turn up cooling? no printer I'm asking. 3D print nerd has a vid about 0% to 100% cooling, the 0% no cooing benchy is all melted as fuck but stronk as hell. Might have some info for you.

I've got a Prusa mk2 dolly printer and I'm thinking of upgrading parts to make it more reliable.
I printed mk3s extruder, got bondtech cloned gears and genuine e3d nozzles with trianglelab heatblock which is a copy of current e3d v6 (using cylinder sensor instead of glass one).
The frame is made of aluminium which I cut locally so the frame is sturdy for a mk2 model.
I've also got prepared a skr 1.3 with tmc2130 to migrate from regular ramps board.
Do you have any suggestions as to what to upgrade except that?
I've been thinking of maybe going for 12volt prusa bed since I did get a pinda for the extruder and maybe changing the z axis motors from coupler+rod ones to ones with leadscrews already in them.
The problems I did have were mostly with extruder jams/leaks which I attribute to bad e3d clones or the mk2 design which I hope will fix the problem. I've already spent around 280 euros on the current printer, to upgrade bed/motors would be around 100 euros more if not going for genuine prusa parts (i'd go for EU "copies" instead of china copies this time).

>>1764951
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7A5HGubGMLo
this video makes it really easy to see what each step does, a surfacer then paint does the job well, but if its not smooth enough filler primer might be better than sanding/melting.

>>1761997
based speakers

In the spirit of meanness I had to show you guys this gem I stumbled across on thingiverse

My friend made a drink coaster for me a while back using his 3-d printer and I'd like to return the favor.
Unfortunately I have the artistic skills of a parkinson's addled prairie dog. Is there a tool out there that can convert an image into an stl file with minimal fuckery? I only have access to a library 3-d printer so I don't have any control over filament and such.

>>1765727
You can use inkscape to take a relatively black and white image into something useable with a little playing around. Just grab whatever and right click on it in there to trace a bitmap then right click again and ungroup to drag around the copies it makes. Fuck around with that for a while then put it in a CAD after that.

>>1765722
Ouch, that layer height bro. I hope that wasn't your print of it.

>>1765722
THICC

>>1765362
>>1765523
anon was referring to Bad Dragon, not sure why they went to such lengths to obscure and then delete their posts

>>1765722
it's a tesla truck, right?

>>1765741
Thanks for the advice. Took a moron like me a few hours to get it to be an actual black and white image in GIMP, and finally get it right in tinkercad but I think I got it done. I'll find out when I get to the library tomorrow.

>>1762728
Oh shit I was thinking about printing that the other day, friend.

>>1761966
Printed another case for my IN-14 Nixie clock

>>1765136
Was looking at these thw other day, why does it have a larger max layer height than their normal extruder?

>>1765812
Apparently it's supposed to be a chevy highlander

>>1765822
I have a friend yay.

Alright 3DPG I got a rare opportunity with some industrial grade overpriced equipment. I have a vision system and several cameras with different lenses and shutters for a failed project from some idiot with a blank check left. I've got free reign to do whatever the fuck I want with it, but I'm no programmer.
I want to take this thing and make it into a scanner, possibly a god damn big one if I can get it working and clone things/scale.
I'm doing my own looking around on the side, but I'm looking for software that can digest what the system could churn out. This thing even has a full license for the software studio to program from start to finish if I ever figure out what I'm doing with it, multi-cameras and all.
I can do black and white, color, and I believe line scans with the two kinds I've found so far that I know plug straight in to GigE ethernets and up to 4 cameras. Self enclosed lasers brand new too.
I'm looking for a point in the right direction for software that I can muck around with. I see the BQlabs horus so far which is pretty cool with a little work, but logitech camera vs. industrial-freakin-grade vision systems, oiy.

So what's the best extruder you can have for a delta?
I'm looking at the zesty nimble right now but I'm not sure.

>>1764791
If you already have a high force linear motion in the same plane, use a pantograph (scissor lift mechanism). Relatively compact, more layers = more stroke.

>>1766055
>larger max layer height
Source? It shouldn't, since the MMU has nothing to do with the nozzle size so it should be the same. Might be a typo.

I remember a while back someone here made a very nice 3D printed sign sort of like pic related. I THINK it was the old Aperture Science logo, but I could be mistaken; I'm pretty sure it was red/orange, at least. Is that person still around and can they share some tips? I want to make my own sign but am not quite sure about some of the details, and googling hasn't helped much so far.

>>1766307
Their website. Theres a comparison chart of the mk3, mk2, and mk3 with mmu on the page for the mk3. It says the mk3 does like .05-.35, but the mmu does .15-.35. Im not sure if thats just in reference to support material or something, but i dont see why it would be. It could be a typo, though you'd think that would be caught fairly quickly

>>1766362
get your eyes checked, the .35 max layer height is both the same. the mmu doing only .15 for a min layer height is due to the filament switch being too costly at lower layer heights.

>>1766532
Guess i should proofread, i meant min layer height

Why Curas fucking with me? How do I need to configure support generation so it appears only in grooves?

>>1766639
pic of model itself. First time I encounter such bullshit

Who has the best tutorials for learning how to 3D model, I'm looking to make a display case for some jars I have!

>>1766920
Depends on what you'll be using to do your modeling.

Autodesk has amazing tutorials, webinars, and videos.

https://f360ap.autodesk.com/courses

I need smooth parts so I can sell them and I cant spend hours sanding and painting each one. Ive never printed with abs before but it seems like the best option for this if I want to get as close to possible to injection quality without hours of post processing if I use acetone.
Just how hard is it to print with abs. My printer has a heated bed so I was just going to put some poster boards around the edges of a ikea table and hope the serves as a chamber well enough.
Also how much should I worry about fumes. My printer chills in my den. Do I have to move it outside?
And I guess I should ask if theres a best filament for vapor smoothing.

>>1766964
Printing with abs is nothing to be intimidated by. I printed an entire model with over 40 parts in abs without even using an enclosure. A simple enclosure like what you describe will be fine.

If you are planning on making these pieces to sell, you should really make a silicon mold instead of printing them all. Print one in abs and finish it to perfection, than you can make a silicon mold using that piece. You pour a few of those, and then you can make a bigger mold. It's messy and it's going to take some time to master it, but it's a lot better than trying to use a 3d printer for production, even if it's very low-rate.

>>1766977
How do you fill the mold with plastic when casting? Do you just heat filament/plastic chips until they flow like water and then pour it in the top?

>>1766977
Silicone anon, not silicon.
>>1766979
You use casting resin, not filament.

I'm trying to get a solid top finish on my prints. I couldn't figure out how to close the gaps normally, so I tried out ironing.
I printed two sets of 3 calibration cubes, and it worked great, except that the leftmost cube had one streak of imperfection on the left side of its top face.
I thought it might be a leveling issue, so I printed pic related, which extended across the whole center of the bed including the space occupied by all the cubes.
Interestingly, there was no imperfect streak in the same area that the cube was, although there are a few minor oddities like the edges having a slightly different texture to the middle, one small rough patch in the top left, etc. Could still be a leveling issue, maybe the bed's a bit warped and the center's a bit lower, who knows.

But what really confused me is the bottom right corner, where it looks like a whole line just didn't print at all. The rest of that corner is fine, as are the lines before and after it. But that single line is somehow absent or otherwise messed up across its whole length.
How does something like that even happen? Is it a problem that can be corrected?
Ironing makes the finish look really nice, but I don't want to try it on an actual print and end up spending multiple hours waiting just for it to screw up on the very last layer.

>>1766979
>>1766980
Yep you can use a two part resin, you mix it together in a mixing up, then pour it in and it will be dry in no time. Like I said it does take some learning, it's an entire new process. It's going to be worth it though if you are serious about selling whatever it is you are making.

>asembling cr-10 v2
>z-height limiter not attached
>z-height of the gantry bar is too low to let it fit
How should I go about raising the z-height without power? Or just connect it all, and raise it with power, and then install it?

>>1766993
what do you think the motor does with the power?????????

>>1766977
Well the parts need to be fairly smooth and not sticky like more resin cast things.

Broke and fixed the locking mechanism cable in a car today.
>Broke two doors before I realised.

>>1767006

>>1767005
If your resin cast parts are sticky you fucked up at some point

>>1767006
>>1767007
nice work, this is why everyone should be able to do this.

What do you do about undersized holes and inner dimensions? About 0.3-0.5mm smaller than needed.
My outside dimensions are on point and my flow seems to be as well. 0.4mm extrusion width makes 0.4mm wall, as it should.
I used to compensate for it when designing parts, but it's a pain and not always easy if geometry is complex.

>>1767021
Yeah I know. But I also know that hobby grade resin doesn't cure as hard as injection. And bubbles are a pain. 3d printing would be the most effective here for ease. I'm not pushing huge numbers.

>>1764055

my z-axis direction is occasionally randomly inverting. it's only happened during bed leveling cycles so far, never mid print. has any one had this happen and diagnosed the source of the problem?

for reference, my printer is a core-xy with the bed on the z-axis, tmc2208 drivers in a MKS Robin nano running recent marlin.

Bye bye thingiverse

>>1767193
Just saw the new layout, fucking gross.

>>1762239
>The ABS was (is) very brittle and cooled instantly.
means your temp is too low

>>1767162
Watch the step pin, sounds like it's flipping. Not sure about the Robin Nano, but Z step direction is often on a shift register, got schematics?

>>1767193
>>1767210
The fact I'm retarded is a given, but did they revert it already? I saw screenshots of the new layout earlier today but I can't get to it

>>1767292
>did they revert it already?

Seems to be the case.

>>1767293
>>1767292

What's the best clear filament these days? I remember Taulman's T-Glase used to be all the rage but I haven't heard anything about that in a while. I'm also looking for ones that diffuse light well, if anyone has suggestions.

>>1767311
are you willing to vapor smooth? not the brand, the process.

>>1767312
I'm on the fence. I don't really have a setup or the space for one, so I usually sand instead of using acetone/etc.

>>1767314
well for clear filament there are two ways, you can vapor smooth with some clear abs or the vaporsmooth brand, but if you dont have the setup t-glase or petg filaments work well with xtc coating
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fk4nOi15YCo

>>1767317
For some reason I completely blanked on the fact that clear ABS exists. Any brand(s) you would recommend?

>>1767320
I thought ColorFabb XT/HT was ABS but its not, I found a maderhackers brand but I guess no one typically smooths transparent ABS despite being nice and clear, it might be better to just use polysmooth (not vaporsmooth) and a spray bottle.
https://youtu.be/92C10-n21Po

>>1762494
happened to me twice before.
Felt like I'm worth something.

>>1765722
your print looks like shit

>>1765722
Did you print that by holding the extruder in your hand and layering manually?

>>1765749
>>1767342
>>1767345
>reading comprehension

>>1765783
because they're a redditor
read the format of the post, only someone from that blighted site types like that

>>1767355

another underage moron who thinks reddit invented and holds the patent on double spacing.

I need lots of empty spools. Who/where should I be looking?

>>1761966
Does anyone know how to make illuminated lithophane that isn't a lamp or box? Just a single sheet/image/picture? The only guides I can find are on the software and they don't show me how I can light it up and hold all the electronics behind the lithophane.

Are z-seams something that just have to be accepted? What are the steps to reduce them?

New Thread >>1767452

>>1767424
Accept them anon I'm tired trying to explain how you tune them away

>>1761966
What pla would you guys recommend from aliexpress?

>>1761988
Used this in high school and it sucked ass.