/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1756506

You'd be crazy to order anything from china in the middle of this pandemic outbreak anyways.

This is the default cat g-code from the SD card that comes with Ender 3.
How do I fix this?

>>1756711
Turn off the printer. Pull the gantry up by turning the Z leadscrew. Turn it back on and tell it not to resume. Go to prepare > preheat PLA. Let it heat up and then wipe all that shit off the nozzle with a paper towel. Turn it off again. Go to youtube AND FIND A GOD DAMNED GETTING STARTED TUTORIAL FOR THE ENDER 3.

>>1756713
>AND FIND A GOD DAMNED GETTING STARTED TUTORIAL FOR THE ENDER 3
>>1756711

Since I know you're too much of a faggot to actually do this or any research before hand on how to operate a machine that blindly follows instructions. Your bed is too far from the nozzle and needs to be leveled. The manufacturers SD file is always fucked and they never give you enough filament to print the sample file so stop trying to print it.

>>1756713
>>1756715
Thank you guys.
Made it approximately 1mm apart from the bed at each corner.
Printed a very nice 5mm cube.

>>1756733

>>1756733
>Made it approximately 1mm apart

I seriously hope you are trolling to bring this dead general to life.

>>1756751
Could you provide insight instead of just mocking?
Might be 2mm, is that too close?

>>1756761
did you even read the instructions on how to level your bed?

>>1756767
I'm 100% sure he's trolling, there's no way that cube got printed with a gap that big.

For those who are actually new to the game your gap should be like 0.2mm at maximum.

>>1756767
Now I did. It's still way too far apart...

>>1756711
>1.25 MB
>1080x1920
learn how to make proper webms first

>>1756770
move the z endstop lower, it's held to the frame with a screw

Hello lads, i bought ender3 and tried printing the cat file that it came with overnight
It seemed to have moved mid print and so the ears were fucked up
I think the tip must have been hitting the print, what could cause this to happen?

>>1756769
desu that ''Cube'' looks like shit. also ffs every video ive seen tells you to place a sheet of paper and it should lighlty scrape against the nozzle.

Y'all mofos are so helpful, keep it up.

I don't have a question.

>>1756798
Your base is super bad, like you can see the huge globs of plastic meaning the nozzle was too far from the bed for the initial layer. Weak initial layer adhesion + part warping as it cools causes it to lift off the bed and hit the nozzle. Surprised it made it through most of the print desu.

>>1756798
As per the OP, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Bed & extruder temperature
>Print speed

People often think that layer shifts are caused by the pringhead ramming the part but this is rarely the case.
>https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/layer-shifting/
Your bottom layer looks like shit, I'd relevel the bed first to get a perfectly even first layer. Bad first layer = bad adhesion, which means at some point during the print is was bound to let go, and once it pops off it's within striking range of the nozzle.

>>1756815
Aye.

>>1756733
Find a model for a single-layer leveling test and print one of those.

I've found a nice Square LCD on pimoroni and now I'm printing parts to assemble a Fallout styled wall terminal.

If I get cool retro term running on a pi (I've had limited success in the past) i think it'd make a great print status monitor/dedicated SSH terminal.

>>1756711
it doesn't even matter, i printed the cat and only had enough to do the neck

you want to preheat PLA
and level the bed so you can just fit a piece of paper with some resistance between the bed and the nozzle

if you bought the glass bed, I think you can use gluestick

>>1756575
I did.
I applied for a job as an aircraft mechanic and I used it as a way to show that I'm good at figuring out how mechanisms work and shit.

Do any of you guys make things that are not just useless toys or things you could have easily made with "traditional" tools/machines? I challenge you to share functional prints that really make 3d printing worthwhile.

>>1757005
Does this count?

>>1757005
Modified a pan/tilt to be only pan and to fit my two cameras for an FPV RC plane.

>>1757005
Nothing I can post online
>jigs
>workholding
>hardware mounting plates
>sample holders
>parts of machines/mechanisms/equipment
My monitor shelf/stand is the only thing I have on hand that I would be able to post but I honestly can't be arsed to clear off everything around it and get some good light on it.

> things you could have easily made with "traditional" tools/machines
You forget the cost and time involved with making those in the first place, being able to "easily" make a hole guide out of aluminum etc. isn't a good comparison when the tool used to make it costs tens of thousands of dollars and generates tons of waste in the process

>>1757005
>things that are not just useless toys

Tons of shit, ok no maybe like 4 things so far. I pressed my feet into clay, photoscanned the imprints and 3d printed them into custom orthotics which easiy cost like $500 per pair. Designed and printed my own VR stock for the oculus rift. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3571718
Made a battery holder for my rechargeable batteries and made a custom mouse which was a couple of threads back. There is a ton of other shit which I could've made, but I don't get into projects unless it's an absolute necessity.

>>1756711
Didn't level the bed correctly..

Level the bed right.

>>1756711
Whats with the paper clips kek

>>1757008
GS5.1?
I'm thinking about the 15000 or this new one with tabs fully tapered and merged into the magwell.

>>1757039
bravo, anon. I too have bad feet and have thought about doing this. If you ever do a write up, please post it or a link to it. I have a 360 kinect that I need to turn into a scanner and then will definitely be doing this. The cheapest inserts that work I have found are Super Feet. what filament did you use. Is that clay pictured or HDPE?

>>1757039
>3d printed them into custom orthotics
Out of what? Orthotics have to be soft, right? All the printing materials I know of are rigid when formed.

>>1757067
Binder clips are one of the go-to non-adhesive ways to hold a bed surface to a bed. Those binder clips come packaged with the Ender 3, although he should at the very least rearrange them so they're not all on one side like that.

>>1757115
Isn't the Ender 3 bed a magnetic sheet nowadays, though?

>>1757116
There is a magnetic bed for the Ender 3, but the one that came mounted to mine when I got it didn't seem to be magnetic.
There is also the option of the glass bed, although they include different clips for it since it's thicker than the stock bed.

>>1757112
TPU. How have you never heard of flexible filament?

>>1757089
I don't know what any of those numbers are. It's just the fosscad bolt AR and a grip and stock pulled from thingiverse. But you sound like you know what you're talking about, so I'd like to know more.

So I bought an Elegoo Mars the other day. This happened for my test prints. What did actually happen? And how do I clean that without damaging the glass?

So I'd like to specialize an ender 5 pro to perform reliably with higher temp filaments like Nylons. In my head I picture a greenhouse type enclosure and potentially using some separate controls to monitor and regulate a variable speed fan to keep the enclosure at a regulated temperature setting (or close enough anyway). The heated bed should provide enough ambient heat to warm the space on it's own or so I think at the moment.

I have a butcherblock table with plenty of room that I could to build the enclosure perimeter around so I don't have to build from the frame of the machine with all the parts janking out and getting in the way of simplicity. I'm also not worried about making this aesthetic and will probably use corrugated media for a lot of it as that double wall makes for a nice bit of added insulation.

My question is, is there a place with some previously acquired collective autism that I could cruise to get a few good ideas before I get down to playing fuck-fuck with the thoughts I already have about it?

>>1757273
>is there a place with some previously acquired collective autism that I could cruise
read the fucking OP
https://reprap.org/forum/

>>1757293
>Thinking the pastebin isn't bookmarked

These guys aren't really building anything. They're just buying Ikea cabinets and talking about fireproofing before they stop posting. Probably because they burned to death after doing it wrong.

>>1757293
This isn't too shabby right here.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sG7mGp6texM

i need to print a model house as a gift
what is the best PLA brand for a matte white look? I think i will also purchase a red/terracotta PLA for the roof
are the stone filled filaments worth it?

>>1756711
read everything you can. find a small print and adjust settings in small increments. I had zero issues with filacube engineering grey ONCE I got it dialed in. for me 205 nozzle and 70 bed temps on glass. I check level as stated before with paper in all 4 corners 20 to 30mm in. bed height/level is probably the most important thing to do.

>>1757005
a bunch of pegboard clips and tool holders. replacement rims for kids rc cars. a lot of minis and terrain for d&d and warhammer

>>1757273
>not worried about making this aesthetic
Get https://www.amazon.com/BalanceFrom-Puzzle-Exercise-Interlocking-Tiles/dp/B074DSJLLY , cut some holes in it for wires and controls, maybe a window, and you're set. Self-supporting, rigid, dampens noise, keeps in heat.

>>1757273
I*ve seen people using garbage bags as enclosures and it seemed to work just fine.
One thing you should be aware of is that the higher temperature inside an enclosure is going to wear out your steppers much quicker.

>>1756645
>Fall for the 3d printing meme
>don't buy a printer because I don't want to buy an expensive meme toy that I only use a couple of times or don't have the time to tinker with
>find makerspace about a half-hour away
>they have a working lulzbot, a lot nicer than what I would be able to afford
>try a few prints
>have to monkey around with the last guy's ABS prints sticking to the bed, have to wiggle them off with vice grips
>start having problems with filament feeding
>eventually get it to work right
>print off a few things and lose interest because I have trouble learning CAD
>come back a few months later when I have more free time
>they have 2 high-end printers, some kind of huge delta printer, and an MP mini, all out of commission, with a fresh Ender 3 that I'm not even sure is set up correctly
>mfw it's all the hassle of owning a printer with none of the convenience

>>1757385
Talk to the owner(s) of the makerspace about equipment maintenance, where I go that shit wouldn't be allowed and is grounds for restricting that person/those people from using the machines.

>>1757005
I don't take pics anymore, so here's an old one
-brackets/leveler for kitchen drawers
-bracket to keep the cats from knocking a planter out of the window
-bolt together ends for cat poles
-feet for fold up card table
-guitar picks
-stand for small torch
-coupler for friends sump(still waiting on actual dimentions)
-letter clips for alphabetized DVD shelves
-clips to hold small fan shroud together
-ant nest
-ecig atomizer stand to flood fill so the coils don't need replaced as often

>>1757389
They probably get away with it because it's a non-profit, I believe the people running the show are doing it for free(TM).
Someone there mentioned that people can earn day passes by volunteering, maybe I can work out an agreement where I get dibs if I can keep them running, maybe get paid.

>>1757005
Just took a look at some of my previous projects:
>Intake tube for Indian motorcycle
>Cupholder
>Car interior replacements
>Replacement parts for reloading press
>Christmas bulbs
>Prototype molds
>Phone mounts
>Custom thumb protector
>Prototype screw for scooping plastic off waterways
>Speedloaders
>Bipod adapters
>General sight modifications
>Chamber flags
>Stencils
>Sample holders for some biometrics project
>Wind tunnel compressor to prove somebody's simulation
>Holder for lab consumables (towels, gloves, ethanol)
>Bearing housings for scale vehicles
>Protective casing to prevent plastic shredder turning into finger shredder
>Replacement buttons for ancient milling machine
>Bullets
And finally:
>3D-printed monocoque for a Formula Student racecar

The advantage of all of these is that I can just fire and forgot after you design the part and sling them into a properly setup printer, which you can't do with traditional tools/machines unless you have CNC-machinery that's way too expensive to use for the functionality that these parts provide - or simply can't even produce the parts because the geometry makes it impossible or incredibly time consuming.

>>1757250
Adhesion to the FEP at the bottom of your tank was better than adhesion to your build plate. Did you level your plate before printing? At any rate, try pulling your tank, pouring in a little iso alcohol and pushing up from underneath with your fingers. It should pop off.

>>1756645
Hey guys, what's a good starting 3D printer? Ideally something not too expensive (preferably below $500) with decent reliability and being easy to set up and use.

>>1757557
i got an ender3pro after xmas for 209, and since i got the bed level i havent had any trouble with it

I've been fighting layer shifts ever since I built this damned thing last summer, but got an interesting result tonight, an XY shift mid first layer.
>Voron 2.1 (core XY motion)
>Esun ABS+
>tool 248°C, PEI bed 100°C
>120mm/s print speed, happens just as often at 50mm/s too

Any help bros? I tried re-tensioning the belts, turned the A/B stepper driver potentiometers clockwise 1/4 turn. It's definitely the print head that's moving and not the print/bed- that print is stuck solid and going to be a bitch to remove.

>>1756851
Cute, are you running OctoPrint on a pi zero?

>>1757005
Oh, it's this bait again.
I use FDM at work for fixtures and drilling jigs. It's also vital for "proof-reading" of part geometries and hole-spacings before spending any money on material to produce the CNC-machined part.
I've even used it to crap out a ton of parts for an assembly so you can walk through the process of assembling a new design before committing any further resources to producing it. So in that regard it's replaced more crude prototypes that I used to make out of styrene, polycarbonate, hot glue, and aluminum tape.
I've also used to it to produce packaging and backplates for handling and shipping of expensive assemblies.
If you can't think of a worthwhile application for 3d-printing then I would argue you're creatively bankrupt or just hopelessly stupid.

>>1757341
Thanks that's not a bad idea at all for the kind of heat retention it gives. Lot better than the stuff that's polyshield with the shiny layer you can cut and send white foaming glitter hell everywhere. I made a greenhouse out of the foam stuff before and it was ok for what it was but probably the ugliest thing imaginable.

>>1757371
Man I'd be paranoid to leave the house with a high temp print and a garbage bag floating around moving parts. I do industrial maintenance stuff and you're right about heat+motors all day. If they were really expensive I'd consider jacketing them. Sometimes the best bet is to just be ready with spares for what you expect to break if you're going to be running something hard though too.

>>1757580
My buddy at work does that with Octo. Looks like a pain in the dick to setup though.

>>1756645

>>1756816
That's a raft he printed on you dottard.

>>1756851
Progress so far

>>1757580
Not on Pi Zeros, They dont have enough /umph/ to run the show from what I've seen.

Right now I have it running on a pi 3 and a Pi 4 but will probably replace the pi 4 because it's overkill.

>>1757608
it's not too much of a hastle to set up 30 mins max and it's worth it.

It completely removes messing with SD cards and adapters.

You just upload the sliced files directly from your slicer and it starts the print.

What do you guys do with the tail ends of your spools? Is there a way to unwind the last of one and join the PLA to the beginning of another spool without suffering extrusion issues?
My first spool is nearly empty (relative to how full it is when it's full), but I can't tell exactly how much more printing it's good for and I don't want to sit and watch it print constantly just to make sure I'm able to pause the print when it actually does run completely out.
For that matter, what happens when it does run out? Is the other end of the filament anchored to the spool and it'll try and yank the whole spool holder into the extruder, or will it just fall off the empty spool and cause the hot end to extrude nothing for the rest of that print?

>>1757728
>what happens when it does run out
Depends on both your printer and filament. Some brands of filament have extremely shitty ends that are welded/taped/hooked into the roll and WILL get eaten by the printer; "better" brands will either have a 90deg angle that catches in the spool so it doesn't unspool too easily or sometimes be lightly adhered (like with double-sided tape). Some printers (like the Prusa) have a filament sensor that knows when there's no more filament and pause printing, but the vast majority I'm aware of do not.

>>1757557
READ THE FUCKING OP

>>1757728
Save them for tiny prints.

>>1757662
Yeah and the raft is of really shit quality which is why it peeled off retard.

>>1757273
I built an enclosure for my 3D printer using IKEA shelves but I didn't use the LACK shelves others were using since it couldn't fit my CR-10S Pro so I went with this.

IKEA BROR frame posts:
https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/bror-post-black-00333278/

And 2 of these for top and bottom.
IKEA BROR Shelf:
https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/bror-shelf-black-30333842/

About $60-70 total with shipping and made of Galvanized steel and very sturdy. Added some greenhouse 8mm polycarbonate sheets to fully enclose the printer and added a couple doors to be able to remove the printer if needed and to take out the build plate when a print is done.

>>1757005
>couple of carburator parts
>pistol grip for a friends revolver
>magnetic keyholder
>brush and a pan
>coat hangers
>couple of lamp shades
>a part for an old outboard motor
>bunch of toys for kids
>a guitar
>fridge handles
>things to put store stuff
Plus lots of bits and pieces, hooks, plugs and such.

>>1757765
Brah, I fuckin love it. Thanks for pointing that one out. I can do all of the things with that right there and not jack my nice new butcherblock table.

>>1756645
Last thread someone asked about how I made Wendy. The model is around 1.4mm tall, and I I just set a color change for each 1-2 layers.

Reminder that deltas are the superior kinematic.

>>1757569
Have you checked your guide rollers and the belt track rollers/cogs? You might want to take the belts back off and clean the guide/belt rollers with WD40 and then get ALL of the WD40 off of it and use a light lube then get off ALL excess from the belt path. You'll lose traction/friction if you grease your belts so beware. By guessing I have a funny feeling you're getting the dreaded PBPPBPBBPBP skid when something sticks in motion or a cable package gets in the way. Almost looks like it's skidding in a particular direction? Look for a lazy wheel is what I'd be doing.

>>1758034
only for speed

>>1757250
isopropyl alcohol in the vat and let it soad for awhile. take you plastic scraper and try to puch under the part and lift up. then just clean out the vat. also mess with your exposure setting to see what is best to keep print from failing

Anycubic Photon or Photon S? Going to buy one tomorrow

WTF is my extruder door doing (MMU2S)? I checked the gears and the teeth are free of obstructions. This is seriously messing with my filament detection. I've got the "chimney" on it set all the way to the right, and it barely registers whether there's filament in there - if it wobbles, it throws everything off and results in 0/1/0/1 etc. detection.

so do you guys sand things by hand or do you use a hand sander?

It's habbenin

So two days ago I ran a smaller, 3-hour print that came out decent except for some jaggedness on the sides but it didn't need to look pretty so whatever, but when I went to run something today the first layer came out around 3-4 times physically wider than normal and ridiculously uneven, does anyone know what could've caused it? I haven't changed anything since my last successful print.

>>1758218
Were you printing glow in the dark or other abrasive filaments in the previous run?

>>1758222
Nope, I've never run anything but standard PLA

>>1758209
Neat, what is it though?

>>1758238
AR2 from Half-Life 2
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CPnmCaO568E&feature=emb_title

>>1758218
>I haven't changed anything since my last successful print.
In my experience, the bed can become unlevel spontaneously in spite of supposedly or actually doing nothing to it.
Try re-leveling it, see if that helps.

>>1758280
Yep, spot on. Tested the Z-axis home, the hotend pushed the bed down noticably. Especially weird considering I levelled it last week, but I guess that's what I get for such a cheapshit printer

>>1758292
>considering I levelled it last week
Wew, I usually have to adjust mine at least once a day.

>>1758296
I don't print too much so that's likely a factor, but I can usually get away with levelling once a month. Although even after I did just level it, the print is coming out like shit so I might have some more work ahead of me still.

>>1758303
Is it less shit/differently shit?
Extruder clogging is another thing that can happen. Look up "3d printer cold pull," for a way to clean it out of possible debris that doesn't involve disassembling it.

>>1758305
Here's a pic for reference. Before my bed level fucked itself, it was printing at a totally tolerable level (considering my belt tension was dogshit - I'm trying to print a belt tensioner right now). I'll take a look to see if it's clogged.

>>1758309
>considering my belt tension was dogshit - I'm trying to print a belt tensioner right now
Is it possible to manually tighten the belts at all?
On my Ender 3, the ends of the belt are just put through slots in the extruder head, so if I wanted to I could take them out, pull them tighter, and put them back in, with a little more end/slack hanging from those slots. Is it possible with your printer to do something like that in the meantime?

As to your pic, how did you determine that it was level while re-leveling it? Did a leveling test print fine, but the actual print fails?
To me, the gaps between the lines suggest that your bed is too far from the nozzle.

>>1758312
The printer is a combination between homebuilt and an Anet A8 - the belts are held together by zip ties. Tensioning by hand requires 3 hands, or at least it feels that way.
As for the levelling, I plan to play around with it a bit more. I use the (likely outdated by now) trick of putting a sheet of paper between the nozzle and bed and checking for resistance to level it, however the machine is known to over/underextrude so that's something I have to worry about as well (it was dialed in for a while but you never know)

>>1758316
>trick of putting a sheet of paper between the nozzle and bed and checking for resistance to level it
That's a good way to get it in the ballpark, but you can't beat printing something and then adjusting based on how the print actually looks. There are a ton of leveling tests on Thingiverse. Pick one and adjust accordingly until the squares it produces look acceptable.

>>1758319
Relevelled, ran a test, levelled again. Trying the print again, hopefully it works out well

>>1758323
Print finished. Honestly worked pretty well, I think the issue has been totally fixed.

Anyone know of MSLA resins that are comparable in material properties to stratasis objet prints?

I did injection mold tooling with objet a while ago, i was wondering if the same can be done with MSLA.

>>1756645
I replaced my powersupply. Extruder and heating bed is still nonfunctional. No split, or broken wires.

How do you reboot marlin software, would that even do anything.

And if that doesn't work, how to i replace the whole damn board. Or rather yall got some links of what to buy my dude?

Designed a 3M Command strip mounted rear speaker shelf in about half an hour in Blender, printed it on my Ender 3. Supportless, one piece, and even has a notch cut out against the wall for the wire. Used a soldering iron and a ball-ended hex wrench to create four concavities for the speaker feet to rest into; was an oversight in my original design that was easily rectified.

>>1758461
>I replaced my powersupply. Extruder and heating bed is still nonfunctional. No split, or broken wires.
Did you even TRY to locate the error?
How old are you?

>>1757424
>Intake tube for Indian motorcycle

Does that print even hold being so close to 2 very hot cylinders? Or is it just a proof of concept thing?

>>1758461
Look up the correct wiring and make sure they're in the correct spots in the correct oreintations

>>1758461
I told you after your last post that your control board was fucked. Like what is the point of giving you advice if you do everything other than what you're told. Buy a new printer because you're too fucking stupid to figure it out.

>>1758491
This is me right here.
>>1754149

>>1758209
very cool

Anyone here has experience with water washable resin? Any significant pros and cons?

>>1758488
K
>>1758469>>1758491
Tbh something looked off about the power supply and its really cheap so its actually a reasonable place to start. I can still return it to amazon at full price.

Theres not a lot to identify here because nothing broken so either way you'll end up going down a list of parts until you find the error. You really shouldn't get so angry. Its not healthy or helpful.

>>1758551
>You really shouldn't get so angry. Its not healthy or helpful.
Do you have a multimeter? If not, get one.

>>1758482
not that anon but they cast it from a mold made from the print

>>1758558
I do. I not sure, do you touch the black COM to the breadboard for proper testing?

>>1758551
>Theres not a lot to identify here

There's tons to identify with a simple multimeter and a brain.

Does the printer turn on?
Yes > check the control board
Does the control board boot up and display stuff on the LCD?
Yes > test the manual controls via the LCD menu
Does a voltage appear on the wires going to the heated bed when you manually set the bed temperature?
Yes > check the heated bed itself

If you looked closely at the control board you would see that all of the connections are labelled in white writing. The power connections going to the hot end and heated bed are the chunky green terminals at the top left of your picture here. >>1758461

howdy, im looking to get into zbrush sculpting for architectural ornaments that i can later 3d print, do you have any recommended youtube tutorial for a total newb? sorry to pop in just to ask stuff, i promise i will post my production as soon as i have one

working on a "wheel" for my steam controller
it will attach to a rotating thing that attaches to my table
finally got this sucker to print
is kinda sloppy, but works perfectly

>>1757005

>>1758466
Looks nice. How is the not-wall-side of those things done? I've been considering getting some recently but don't know how much of a hassle it would be to attach to things I make. Is it just sticky on both sides?

>>1758640
>digital sculpting
Honestly, just start dicking around trying to make the shapes you want and googling "how to make X in zbrush" when you hit a wall. If you don't have a license for zbrush you might want to try using sculptris or blender first to avoid dropping a pile of money on something you still need to learn to use.

>>1758681
any reason i shouldnt use it pirated?

>>1757569
over current and running into thermal protection is just as likely as under current and skipping steps.
grab a multimeter and set the driver current properly

>>1757008
Those are some quite funky socks, dude.

>>1756645
I wanna get back into 3d printing again but dislike my printer. I haven't touched it in a couple of years now and I was thinking of fixing it up or replacing it.

I'd like to upgrade it to do multi material printing. What's the best printer setup for doing that? I've seen a few different things around like multi extruders and setups with only one extruder. Do you guys have any good information on that?

>>1758734
>dislike my printer
Well, first off, what's the printer?

>the best printer setup for doing that
Depends on what you want to do. Multicolor prints you don't have to paint? Prusa MMU will work for you. Just interested in support material? Dual extruders generally are made for that. Want RGB capabilities? Look into the Diamond hotend, though it requires some fiddling about. There's a few more but the more you describe how you're planning to use it, the more I can help.

>>1758738
I built it from a kit.

http://www.makerfarm.com/index.php/3d-printer-kits/pegasus-series-latest-printer-model/pegasus-8-kit.html

It's got lead screws for a z axis and uses that v rail aluminum tubing for the frame. I'm not very happy with the performance of the bed either. I haven't messed with it in a couple of years now as I've been busy with a lot of shit. I'd like a larger printer. This one has issues with larger items.

I am interested in multicolored prints. I suppose multiple materials don't matter. I'd be happy being limited to different colors of the same stuff. I have a decent pile of parts I was going to use to make a cnc machine or new 3d printer with I just never got around to it. I was going to do a core xy design and do a heated build chamber.

The diamond hot end looks pretty cool but I'd rather be able to mix in stuff like silver.

>>1758744
Prusa's MMU2S and the Mosaic Palette might be what you're looking for, then. The Palette should be printer-agnostic, I think. I don't know if the MMU is compatible with things other than the MK2S/MK3S, but FWIW, they're damn good machines. ~200x200mm is still the average build size these days, erring on the side of smaller; anything bigger usually has a corresponding price tag or is custom-built. I think it's due to the heat bed, but I'm not sure since I'm fine having a 250x210 build platform.

>>1758745
I had a lot of issues with the printer if I placed things in certain parts of the bed so I couldn't get decent prints unless it fit in a specific area that is smaller than the whole build envelope. Plus I sometimes run into issues where the hotend would push the binder clips I use to hold the bed together.

>>1758482
I cast it, but if I didn't, I would have made it from CF-filled Nylon since that has been used in intake manifolds before.

>>1758679
Sticky on both sides, one for wall, one for object.

If I'm getting noticeable bumps/imperfections on my curves exactly in the place where the head stops and changes direction while drawing the layers, it means my belts need to be tightened, right?

Are US people finding that PLA is getting more expensive? 4 months ago i got 6kilo of overture for $13/kilo. Now the cheapest name brand filament is like $18 (with overture around $20) and eBay has no-name for $15. Anyone try no-name stuff?

>>1758672
Didn't know the steam controller had motion tracking

>>1758963
A E S T H E T I C

>>1758963
Okay that's cool. I really need to get an ender, I feel like I'm missing out.

How hard it is to learn some 3d printing cad software? When I was a kid I used to play around in sketchup and blender, and later on in autocad so I'm not a complete retard

>>1759176
you could learn it all in a fucking afternoon on youtube tier difficult

>>1759176
Grab Fusion 360's Hobbyist license and go nuts. It's pretty much the easiest CAD program to get into these days and is free if you make under $1,000/year. Dick around to your heart's content.

https://www.autodesk.com/campaigns/fusion-360-for-hobbyists

>>1759176
I use fusion 360, eazy peazy, the problem starts when you want to make curvy and detailed stuff, like a face. I tried making donuts in blender but I don't think I'll be using it anytime soon.
>I really need to get an ender
I have an ender and at this point I think there are probably better alternatives out there. The artillery printers look nice, for example.

>>1759176
>>1759265
enders are great because they're dirt cheap
if you have a toolbox, you can easily fix all the minor issues with the printer, and it'll last you until you decide to upgrade to a more expensive one

What do I do if the first layers of my prints are adhering poorly to rafts? When I attempt to print a cylinder on top of a raft, the bottom of the first layer comes out looking more like an octagon since the filament only sticks to a few places in the circle, which causes those points to just be connected through the middle of the circle with straight lines of filament.
It mostly doesn't seem to affect the actual print since the other layers continue on just fine, but it can fuck with really small/thin parts.

I suspect the cause is my recently changing from PLA+ to silk PLA, although they're both the same manufacturer. Even if it is due to the filament, though, is there any way to counteract it? I don't feel like babystepping the Z down at the beginning of the print would work since it'd just squish the whole raft without necessarily changing the distance of the print relative to the raft, and while babystepping down just as it was starting the first layer on top of the raft did work, it requires sitting there and waiting for it to have just finished the raft. It also stuck a little too well to the raft, but I might've gone one step too far that time.

>>1759294
I should also note that the first layers of prints where I don't use a raft come out just fine.

>>1759296
Why do you feel it is necessary to print on a raft, then?

>>1759296
>>1759294
stop printing on a raft then, you fucking monkey

>>1759326
>>1759328
The first layer of prints in general come out fine. The first layers of very small prints/parts of prints, such as chain links/gear teeth/etc have a tendency to peel off of the bed at their corners as they cool, which ruins the whole print if even one does so. I typically use a raft to stop this since the raft sticks well to the bed and they stick well to the raft, but since changing filaments it's like the nozzle is too high, but only on the first layer above the raft. The raft's first layer prints fine and subsequent layers on top of the raft print fine.

>>1759329
use a brim, then

>>1759333
Wouldn't that be hell to remove from a print like pic related, since the brim is fused to the first layer and would have to be individually cut away from the 150+ pieces that are making contact with the bed?

>>1759113
PLA used to be $30-40 a kg

I just love clear resin. And printing a 0.2mm sheet over the whole bed seems to work incredibly well I haven't had a single print fall of.

>>1759354
>clear is actually clear
I'll be damned. The expensive Formlabs "clear" resin starts getting yellow on parts thicker than ~1cm or so, but this seems to be pretty good. I wonder how it holds up over time, though?

>>1756703
>>1756506
So I ended up buying it anyways, just because.

Got it in hand and aside from the incorrectly made tension system I mentioned before.
>mounting screws not long enough to mount on ender 3
I had some others from an old 3d printer so thats fine
>screws too long to install top plate
The threaded hole for the top plate are through holes. BUT for some reason right after the threads there is a small lip. You put the bolt in and it will hit the lip and not let it go further. And it stops the provided screws way before it can hold down the top plate, and it must have the top plate tight to function.
I used a 1/8 drill bit to drill out that lip from the bottom, and the long screws hold the top plate on fine now.

>>1759356
As for the defective tensioning system, I just drilled and tapped the tensioner holes.
Made it 1/4-28 (fine thread) and added some set screws.
Ground the ends of the set screws into posts that fit inside the spring so they are captive and dont fall out.

>>1759357
Properly tensioned it works quite well, it wouldnt work nicely without the set screw modifications.

>>1759355
I have printed special microscope slides and they are still clear after a couple of months in the lab, but there is no UV light there. It's monocure rapid resin

>>1758963
This is now the Key Chain General

>>1759337
It would be easy if you have a PEX removable build plate like a wham bam.

I just printed a mock ITX motherboard at 1:1 scale and it came off after it was done wonderfully. It was even very shiny on bottom.

Those notches on top are where the components like the PCI-E slot, ram slots, USB etc go. Those were printed separately.

>>1759354
dope and cool and good. which resin did you use?

>>1759403
>it came off after it was done wonderfully
No, I mean wouldn't it be a hassle to remove the brim itself from a print like that? It'd have to be cut off of each individual piece, wouldn't it?
I've never had much trouble removing the actual prints from the glass plate I use.

Anyone have a recommendation for a tough resin that won't break the bank? The Elegoo gray I'm currently running is pretty brittle; I'm mostly running wargaming miniatures, and I've been treating them with kid gloves worried that the thinner bits will snap like glass under RL conditions.

>>1759539
Get Elegoo ABS-Like and add it to the standard, 50/50.

>>1759783
Looks like it's around the same price; why not just run it straight?

>>1759830
Elegoo ABS-like doesn't capture fine detail as well as the non-abs-like.

>>1759268
I love my ender, but it's noisy af, and the X axis rail was a bit bent. I spent around 50$ in upgrades: glass bed, leveling probe, smoothers, a metal extruder motor assembly... So while it's cheap, I had to put some work to make it better. I'd probably go for a better printer, even if I had to pay 100 or 200$ more.

>>1757385
>i have trouble learning CAD
Of course you're posting furshit.

>>1759892
>noisy
A €25 replacement board has basically silenced mine.

>>1759999
Does it use the same Marlin firmware? I want to keep using my probe. Also, nice quads.

>>1760003
You got it, you even get extra memory making it easier to add things like your probe. SKR mini E3, good shit. You can even probably dump those smoothers.

>>1759169
has a gyro which feels better then using the analog stick to drive

sup nerds?
my ender 3 has a warped build plate.
>surprise.stl
this has made it impossible to print using brims or skirts, and basically the middle of the bed was unusable without a raft. today i got some blue tape and put a few strips on the middle of the build plate. i checked it with a straightedge before and after.
I am now able to print with a brim or a skirt.
>printmyshitupfam.gcode
this brings us to the reason for my post, i did google but couldnt find the info im loking for. With the blue tape between the magnetic plate and the removable mat, will i need to retape it often? also i havent printed anything with ABS yet, will the tape hold up to the heat needed for ABS?

btw thanks for this general, ive learned quite a bit from yall, also pic related the first time i was ever able to print a brim and have it stick to the mat

Should I go Elegoo or Anycubic for a sub-£500 SLA printer, or is there much difference?
Mostly making figurines.

>>1760195
>will i need to retape it often
Not for a good while. The heat will eventually kill the glue, painter's tape has pretty bad glue to begin with. But now that you know where the warp is you could make a more permanent solution by using electrical tape or something. Get a tape that's explicitly labeled as handling high temperatures (which most electrical tapes are) and it'll probably last indefinitely.

Hey i need some help. Im still learning how to model but i cant get what i want to work right
Im trying to make this have better air flow with two inlets spaced apart like the pic.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2796484

>>1760224
>better air flow with two inlets spaced apart
Add a wedge in the middle, and some helical vanes to create turbulence in the tube. Make the center hole in your adapter as large as possible

MYNT3D 3D pro pen yes or no?

>>1760234
could you help me anon? I keep fucking it up.

>>1760260
Try stop fucking it up?

I'm not clear what you want anyone to do.

>>1760224
why do you need 3M 6000 Series filters when its 90 bucks for a full kit on Amazon
trying to get an intimidation factor or is this your only site that loads past the firewall

>>1757005
Hood rod retaining clip and other fancy car grommets.

>>1760195
>>1760217
Papers shims would also work I guess. Did you tried with a glass surface? I'm curious if it would follow the warp of the bed and on any magnitude.

>>1756645
Have you guys ever had to reboot the marlin software becuase something wasnt running right?

>>1760302
>Did you tried with a glass surface? I'm curious if it would follow the warp of the bed
I did some google and youtube research before i went with the tape. On youtube there were a couple videos about glass beds not being flat, and then having to be taped as well to compensate. If i knew of a reputable glass bed kit that was guaranteed flat i would have gone that route. But none of the ones on Amazon or ebay gave any indication of how flat they are, or guarantee that theyd stay flat.
I saw a few people recomend borosilicate glass for the bed, but again there was no indication of how flat they would be. The glass kits i looked at were 3 to 4mm thick, thats thin enough to be flexible you could definitely flex it by hand.

>>1760271
Because the 3m filters are cheap af and available everywhere, every big box has them. Even local hardware stores have them. Those are my guesses anyways

>>1760271
>>1760333
this^

>>1760302
I have the Ender 3's glass bed. It's shown some weird behavior in the past, like the bed appearing to be too low along a single line through the middle of a leveling square while the rest of the square prints fine, but such problems never seem to be constant and overall I haven't noticed any glaring issues with warping.

>switch from white filament to silver
>suddenly very noticeable zits
>look at white prints
>they all actually had zits in the same places as well, just less pronounced and less noticeable
Retraction settings are all slicer-based, so I'm going to have to remake the gcode files for all the models I've saved so far, won't I?
I guess I should take this opportunity to move to Cura instead of using Creality's slicer.

>>1760224
Something like this?

>>1760224
I hope the adapter leaks.

>>1760425
>""Europeans""
I doubt irish and german bron*es need these masks within the next 24 hours but...

these guys dont need a nicely made setup, but for those who already have a cheap surplus mask it wouldn't be that hard to make a cheap adapter. I need to install fusion on my new desktop, I'll try my hand at making a dual head adapter; making it printable will prob require two part epoxy for printing and coating the part.

>>1757005
i'm a part of my universitys formula student team, we print a fuckload of parts that don't need to be made from aluminum because printing is a hundred times cheaper than milling and we're running a tight budget

>>1757424
>3D-printed monocoque for a Formula Student racecar
mind sharing some pictures of the process and the results?

>>1760452
Given that said uni might be paying my wages in a few weeks time and most of what I'll say will be unkind: yes, I do mind.

Process was printing an ''internal mold'' in three pieces, then covering it in carbon fibre to get the rigidity required for crash testing. Results were not satisfactory, not because of the design of the composite layers but rather due to an oversight in the car's construction.
V2 was supposed to be printed a year ago, with CF-filled nylon that would not require any carbon fibre cladding. Not gonna happen anytime soon though, design work is slow as fuck thanks to bad management.

My cylinders/domes have a very small Z-seam, but it can still be felt and can still be seen when the light hits it. Randomizing the layer start positions didn't completely hide the bumps either, it simply scattered them and actually makes the print look worse, in my view.
Is it possible to make the seam so small that it's imperceptible, using a semi-chinkshit printer? Or should I just accept that FDM is always going to leave some sort of seam where the layers start and end, and instead focus on positioning it where it won't be noticed as much?

>>1760456
just accept it, I dont get huge gashes in my prints but yours must be shit.

>>1760461
I'm using an Ender 3.
They're not huge gashes, necessarily, but they're definitely noticeable if you run your hand over the surface looking for it, or turn it so that the light hits it there and you can see the distortion in the reflected light.
The problem was actually much worse when I was using Creality Slicer instead of Cura.

What would make the top of my first layer rough in some places? Like it's forming tiny mountains.
It's still flat, but it feels like sandpaper.

>>1760472
that expanding pla might help, the roughness/airiness is controlled by how high the temp is so you could do some texture changes or even multi material sort of things with different printing temperatures

>>1760453
Ah so an internal mold for carbon fibre molding, we do that too, did you use vacuum bagging? how was the surface finish?

Artillery3D GENIUS $299

Good first printer?

ok, is there a standard for the NATO 40mm thread? the guy used blender to model the thread and hole

>>1760499
>how was the surface finish?
I'd like a job at my uni, so: no comment.

>>1760509
Oh come on now, what sort of high tech secret vacuum bagging technique have you guys developed :D
i think i'm gonna build a huge 3d printer for the next year to make 3d printing molds more feasible, how's your experience been with huge printers? and 3d printed molds compared to more traditional materials like mdf and foam?

>>1760507
>40mm nato thread
the fuck is that?

>>1760513
this thing, someone made an end cap in fusion so this should make the correct seal

>>1760507
>Basic Nato 40mm gas mask thread
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3875269

>>1760513
I asked the same question

>>1760472
Too close to bed / flow too high / temp too high.

>>1760510
In all honesty I was at an internship while they did the carbon fibre. Far as I know they just slathered on plies and epoxy and hoped for the best. If there was any technique, you'd best not imitate it, I'm pretty confident the bondo weighs more than the monocoque itself.
>how's your experience been with huge printers?
Pretty good. Screw FDM, find a sponsor with a pellet printer unless you enjoy waiting AGES for your molds. Surface it rough and needs manual cleaning up in most cases, but that's just elbow grease. MDF and foam are fine, but aren't as accurate in most cases - although possibly quicker. Printing is more fire-and-forget though, meaning you can do other useful (or not useful) stuff while she's running. In case you're limited to FDM: buy some 400^3mm sized units like the Chiron or Creality S4/S5, and let them print sections with a fat nozzle and layer height. Four or five of those with a 0.8mm nozzle and 0.5mm layer height will outprint your drawing skills.

>>1760519
>Too close to bed
I did babystep it down a couple of steps during that print, but if I didn't then the beginnings of each line that it would place would curl up off of the bed as the head moved away from them.

>>1760224
https://files.catbox.moe/or2nbu.stl

>>1760526
Then play with flow and temperature.

>>1760526
should have bought a prusa

>>1760513
>>1760515
1,5748 inch

How long does the test cat take to print on Ender 3? I could only find that the test dog takes 5+ hours. How long for the cat?
I need to drive home and it's already dark but it's still printing.

>>1760589
you'd know if you had bought a prusa

>>1760589
It says in cura if you bring the stl files but for the test ones they are gcode so I don't know how to find that out. Try watching CHEP videos on yt since he is pretty helpful.

>>1760596
Why does everybody print the dog?

it's freaking SIX hours

>>1760514
>>1760515
dont forget yall, you need a rubber seal between parts to keep bad things out

>>1760596
FYI you can drag and drop gcodes into
cura just like stl

>>1760527
8/10 the 3m ends look like you carved them with a chainsaw

>>1760719
I ran it thru meshmixer cuz I'm a bastard, here's the real file
https://files.catbox.moe/idjaw8.3mf

Is there a trove for STL files (specifically DND related)

>>1760721
thre is a zip of gumroad dnd/40k sorts of figures that someone can link from the archives, there is also a ripping discord/russian forum that rips from games and gives tools to make them printable. (includes a heroforge downloading tool and sketchfab requests)

>>1760589
When I got my Ender 3, the printing time was right there in the gcode filenames for all the default models.
According to that, it takes 3.5 hours.
Although, the dog's filename also says it takes only 2.5 hours, so I don't know how accurate it is compared to whatever source you found that said 5+ hours.

Every time my printer starts a line on the first layer of a print, the beginning of the line gets dragged with the nozzle for a few millimeters as it moves and gets pulled up off the bed.
I don't think it's a nozzle/leveling/adhesion issue, because the first line of the skirt never suffers this problem. But I don't know what settings to tweak or what to even call it in a Google search.

When my printer reaches the end of its nozzle cleaning line just before starting the skirt, it prints a little mound of plastic as it rises. Does this mean it isn't retracting when it does so? Could the extruder be retracting too much/not pushing out enough during the actual print causing it to not adhere well enough to the bed?
Although, the rest of the layers print fine. If I made it extrude more after retracting, would those layers get fucked up or have more noticeable zits?

>>1760724
Who's epeen do i have to esuck to get that ...

Are coplanar faces gonna be an issue when printing? I'm using zbrush live boolean to merge my mesh and it seems fine except it gives me non watertight warnings cause interior faces are coplanar.

>>1759354
You can 3D print with resin? I had no idea you could. Does it call for a lot more maintenance?

>>1760878
wait, before I tell you how and the logistics dont google anything; how do you think it works

>Imagine being OP and thinking the anycubic photon is SLA

>>1760916
masked sla retard
its not a projector

what was that search engine thingy that made using thingiverse bearable?

>>1760962
nvm found it, should really be included in the paste

>>1760964
Tell us what it is then?

>>1760987
yeggi prob

Can you guys recommend me a bowden extruder that I can get for cheap for my Ender 3? The extruder that the ender came with snapped. I have one of these metal extruders, but the tension isn't adjustable and as a result there is a lot of underextrusion for the thin parts due to the filament getting chewed up during retraction.

>>1760992
bmg clones, you can reverse them if the shark connectors break but thats the part that always breaks on the cheap clones, only one can be replaced, but other than that it coasts like 5 bucks more for a far superior extruder. that plus Capricorn tubeing (keep the same watt per step even though its geared) to print flexables on a bowden.

>>1760992
yeah, a prusa mk3

>>1760998
costs*
its a geared and grips both sides, it cant chew them up and it extrudes better than a direct prusa

>>1756645
I'm having trouble with lithophanes and I'm looking for some guidance. Everyone says max of 3mm and minimum of .4 for thicknesses but .4 usually makes holes and 3mm just blocks way too much light. Everything I print is just a huge block with tiny patches of shit that worked right and any kind of gradiant is just gone entirely. I've tried 5 different photos and nothing is working. This is what I've got

Ender 3 Pro, Hatchbox grey PLA
3dprocks to generate positive STL, Slic3r to slice
Min Thickness .4
Max Thickness 3mm
Layer height .15
Print Speeds all set to 35 so it's slow as tits
A brim for proper vertical support

Everyone says its simple and idiot proof but I've never gotten a single test print to work and it's frustrating. If I turn down the maximum thickness won't it have less of a range to print brightness levels?

>>1760998
Thanks anon, that sounds like what I'm looking for.

If I level my bed using one filament, I shouldn't have to re-level it when I switch to another, should I? Level is level, right?
I leveled my bed using white filament and the squares all printed fine. Slightly rough in places due to being a bit too close, but I had to raise the corners to get the middle to print well.
But when I switch to black filament, despite not touching the bed, the same leveling test prints with one corner being very rough as though it's much too close to the nozzle, and the other corner not adhering at all.
Is it possible that the bed simply isn't actually level and the fact that the white filament printed fine is just a fluke due to it happening to have better adhesion or something?

>>1761074
Depending on your printer the screws holding down the bed can shake loose.

>>1761074
Level is level. Consider a BLTouch but be ready for some fucking around. Mine is bowed in the center up to .5mm and is a pain in the dickhole.

If you want to see where the goofs are get a decent straightedge and put light behind it. See light? Bent.

>>1761079
Speaking of fucking around. My touch wants to do 9 points and that's fine, but the bastard thinks there's bed area where there isn't bed area. Program comes from crealitys website no less.

Now I guess I'm waiting on arduino so I can get in there and fuck around on offsets for X unless there's a hot tip I can't find on the internet. Since the 5 pro (not plus) is not super popular there's very little coverage of basic setup. At least I guess this is the only thing that's got me sideways.

>>1761074
>If I level my bed using one filament, I shouldn't have to re-level it when I switch to another, should I?
>Level is level, right?
Ahahahaha. Every time you do a heating cycle of the bed you should re-level.

>>1761113
>re-leveling every print
Either your printer is particularly poorly put together/designed or you're doing something wrong, you shouldn't need to level so often.

Well I got a MYNT3D pen coming. I realized this is for printers, I basically got it to mess around until I can build a space for a printer. Is /3dpg/ interested in it or should I fuck off somewhere else?

>>1761158
Might as well post, I don't see why not. Most fitting place to do so.

>>1761149
depends on how you treat the printer when the steppers are off, if you have multiple motors and you push them around instead of keeping their leadscrews aligned, you would need to relevel but not have to redo mesh leveling; if you use a removable plate or change temps you might not have to relevel but you might need redo mesh leveling; if you use a spatula and stick your prints hard on the bed then you need to relevel.

>>1761158
sure, although your art projects migt get more praise in the arty boards, here "finctional" parts are far more important

openscad > zbrush

>>1761168
>get more praise
I imagine it's not going to be impressive.

>finctional
fictional function? actually the first thing I plan to make after fucking around getting used to the pen is an alignment wedge for a door retainer. The retainer has to be flat but the door will go past 90º open so it won't be parallel with the wall. I was going to make a wedge of wood to fix the alignment but now I want to see if I can make a stronk part with the pen to serve the purpose. The retainer clip is quite strong and the wedge will go between the baseboard and the larger catch mechanism.

Oh and I'm going to make a quick angle gauge to copy the angle before I make the wedge.

>>1760720
thank you anon. you should publish this.

soon™

>>1761213
cooling?

If I'm printing a bunch of SLA moon rune signs what's the best orientation for supports, characters parallel to ground or perpendicular? Got like 10 of these

>>1761249
Parallel is how I always see text being done.

So here's a error we're having at school that's got the tech and librarian teachers confused.
We're using a Dremel 3D40 Idea Builder and it's proprietary slicing software that came with it. Been using it successfully without any issues, just a month for me, but it's in the library and someone's always printing something.
Anyway, after printing a literal xeno-meeple early in January, it refuses to print anything else. The software is up-to-date, it can read and see the STL files (we've tried a few dozen), but when it goes to save it as the dremel-filetype, it creates a file, but says cannot export date to it.
No troubleshooting, not suggestions, but literally create the file on the USB. Go print it, balances, heats extruder and filament.
**Print Complete** and begins shutdown procedures.
Any ideas? The teachers have said they're waiting to hear from the company, so me and a few others are searching the web.

>>1761285
Sounds like maybe the drive itself can't be written to, some permission got fucked. Try running the slicing software as administrator.

>>1761079
Mine's bent too, i used a straight edge and 2 layers of blue tape to even it out. Its nice now

>>1761253
Alrighty sounds good. I was planning it like this cause I figured it'd save on supports but it'd probably need a bunch more to not fail anyway. Dumped the wip model into chitubox and stuck some autosupports on to check the general flow of things. Probably a little ambitious to print this much shit in one go..

>>1761300
Eek. I hope that larger piece is hollowed, or at the least just a shell and not completely solid. You might want to consider breaking off parts and printing them separately, like maybe the awnings.

Also, looks like the points of the bottom floor left side awning is unsupported, though it could be the viewing angle that makes it look that way.

>>1761301
Yeah it's gonna be hollowed out, just trying to figure out how I'll fit all this junk on the plate. Definitely gonna need a bunch of extra supports on all the dangly parts. I was considering doing it all separately but the last time I tried connector plugs the holes shrank a lot during curing

>>1761167
What's the difference between leveling and mesh leveling?

>>1761306
One you are moving a leveling screw(MBL) and the other you are using a sensor to do fundamentally different work (automated options exist but require extra z motors) compared to mesh ABL/MBL(yes you can do it manually and then load up saved maps) that uses software to know how far the printer head is from the bed and will compensate its shape. this is the fundamental difference between "leveling"/traming/mesh and "true" bed leveling. There is also ABL, but that is just a simpler version of mesh ABL but its quick enough to compensate for a shifting bed on new prints, you could even add it to the starting gcode, home, 4/3 point ABL, print (but it should be leveled every few days).

>>1760195
>>1760302
>>1760357
My Ender 3 bed was warped, or so I though. I had the same exact problem, the bed seemed to have a dip at the center, so I bought a glass bed. It turns out it was the X axis the hotend was riding along which was bent by a fraction of a mm, causing the nozzle to be a bit higher at the center.
I have since installed a BL touch clone.

>>1761328
>the bed seemed to have a dip at the center, so I bought a glass bed
And the problem persisted with the glass bed?
Because I'm having literally the exact same problem with the Ender 3 glass bed. If I raise my bed such that the middle prints perfectly, each of the four corners has a somewhat sandpaper-like texture due to being slightly too close to the nozzle.
What was involved in the BL Touch installation/how much did yours cost?

Alternatively, could I just order a replacement for the single metal bar that makes up the X-axis track?

>>1761331
>And the problem persisted with the glass bed?
Yeah, as I said, even with a glass bed the center was a bit low.
Now that you've mentioned it, the dip at the center seems like a common trend, and it makes me wonder if it isn't caused by the odd number of wheels on the slider, with two wheels at the sides and one at the center, causing the X axis rail to be under bending stress, specially when the slider is at the middle point.
Makes me wonder if the problem could go away by switching to a 4 wheel slider.

There are some videos on youtube by a guy whose chanel name is Teaching Tech that go in depth about installing a BL touch or clone. Not gonna lie, it's kind of a pain in the butt, but it's totally worth it. I think my clone costed around $10-15, not sure.

>Alternatively, could I just order a replacement for the single metal bar that makes up the X-axis track?
As I said, it could be caused by the slider, maybe try to loosen the wheel pressure and see if it improves.

>>1761331
Just do manual mesh bed levelling, or shim the bed or both

Currently printing a Jawa and an extruder upgrade

>>1761339
I also designed and printed this case for a Nixie Clock kit I put together

>>1761337
>odd number of wheels on the slider, with two wheels at the sides and one at the center, causing the X axis rail to be under bending stress
If that was the case, though, given that the single wheel is at the bottom, wouldn't it cause the beam to bow upward and make the printhead farther from the bed in the center, not closer? If you envision those wheels squeezing together, it'd bend the bar into an n, not a U.
For $15, I might have to get one of those auto levelers.

>>1761338
How do you do it manually? There's no option for having different Z-offsets for different areas of the bed in the Ender's firmware as far as I'm aware. Would it be done via the slicer?
>shim
You mean sticking material under the center of the bed to raise it up? The bed is a glass sheet of decent thickness, and is only held down at the sides by binder clips. Would it really flex enough to make a difference in leveling simply by sticking a sheet of foil or something under the center? I feel like it'd be more likely to remain rigid and simply put slightly more pressure on the clips that are holding it down.

>>1761337
Actually, it occurs to me that if the defect was in the X-axis rail, that it would affect the entire middle of the bed rather than just the center.
The leveling test I've been using only prints a square at each corner and one at the center. I'm going to try and find one that prints 9 or more squares, which would be able to tell me whether the defect is in the X-axis or in the bed itself.

>>1761240
yes, fan adapter

>>1761345
enders are different, you have to flash in the firmware feature for both saving mesh beds and mesh bed leveling in general

>>1761342
damn that looks nice

>>1761300
Where did you get those buildings?

>>1761285
It sounds like you're not writing to the USB stick. Turn everything off and back on in an indian accent, then you can either check the USB stick for changes (did the file size of the .dremel change did the date) maybe format the USB stick, try a different stick, save something else to the stick, save the file somewhere other than the stick and move it etc.

also pics of the xeno meeple that broke the software?

Mates! Help me, please. I've got and Ender 3 on Friday, it prints beautifully with PLA, but ABS simply won't stick to the bed. I've leveled it, heated up more, applied stick glue, nothing seems to work. It's just frustrating as shit. How can I solve this?

>>1761507
ehh, more information?
temperature, other settings, a fucking picture maybe?

>>1761509
The nozzle goes to 240C, the bed goes up to 110C. The bed is properly leveled, it prints beautifully with PLA. ABS bends on the edges and sticks to the nozzle and everything goes to shit.

>>1761515
...

>>1761517
What else do you need? I'm a newbie.

>>1761515
>ABS bends on the edges
Sounds like you need an enclosure

>>1761524
Yep, I got the same answer on /g/. Just decided to go back to PLA for now and think about the enclosure later on.

>>1761525
just get PETG

>>1761526
Will try that, too. Thanks.

>>1761525
An enclosure can be as simple as an oversized cardboard box over the top. The key features are that no drafts go over the print and there's not too much thermal shock (from low ambient temperatures) to warp/crack the ABS.

>>1761515
should have bought a Prusa

>>1761535
Nice. Helpful AF.

>>1761543
yea np

>>1761543
It's just one dumbass who keeps saying that in response to almost any problem anyone ever has

>>1761526
Does PETG need an enclosure? Is it safe to print in the same room I live in?

>>1761546
He is a dumbass, I agree, but, is he wrong?

>>1761557
He's not wrong because the Prusas ARE good machines that generally have less problems than other printers out of the box, but the way it's being said is equivalent to comments like "git gud scrub" or "install gentoo", i.e. being of zero actual value and just further polarizing opinions. It doesn't answer the question the poster came to ask in the first place, and it might not be even possible for the poster. The answer to "help, my car's AC is broken", while technically correct, is not "buy a new car".

Brushed the dust off the old boy today after having only printed one or two things, trying to get some RC wheels out of it.

What's this look like, bad adhesion? My nozzle did seem a bit far from the plate. You figure this'll fix itself once it gets some material under it or should I scrap these heaps?

>>1761569
Oh boy here I go being a fucking retard again.

>>1761572
Might detach, might not, doesn't look like a great start. Your build plate looks a bit dusty, if you haven't already I'd give it a wipe with some isopropyl and adjust the nozzle height.

>>1761573
>and adjust the nozzle height.
Should this be done before each impression or is the leveling supposed to last for a while?

>>1761573
That's not dust, I wiped off all the old Elmers and applied some new juice. Gunna let it fly, fingers crossed.

Thanks brother.

>>1761574
Before each is a good habit, unless your machine is super rigid. It doesn't look like yours is, so give it a quick check before you waste filament and time. Conversely, get a bltouch and have it auto level for you.

>>1761567
>>1761546
I've been here for years and i'm sick and tired for every other post being someone who fell for the chinkshit asking how to make their machine work

>>1761581
Cool, so have I, but parroting the same thing over and over isn't going to make a time machine and a pile of cash appear so they can have a do-over. Shut up about it already. Nobody's keeping you here if you're sick of it, and you can always filter posts with printer names you don't like.

>>1761584
they have to be reminded anon
today i will remind them

>>1761587
Fuck off, mate. It's not the machine's fault a newbie can't work it properly. Newbies will more likely than not buy a cheaper machine and learn the basics, see if they like it, and so on. So, once again, fuck off, you arrogant bitch.

>>1761588
This anon has my support

>>1761587
>>1761588
I hate it when mom and dad fight

>>1761574
I put a priming swipe (intro line) at the edge of the bed. I pause the print and check the thickness if it's been a while since I used the printer. If I've been printing, I just keep an eye on the thickness as I go and adjust the Z stop as needed

>>1761342
>copped for front-facing Nixies for like 12 bucks off ebay, stoked on the deal
>they're unit tubes, they display Hz and Ohm and Volt symbols
I'm an idiot. What kit did you use and how much did you pay for your tubes?

MYNT3D Pen Report

Well I got my pen and mat and everything was smaller than expected. For starters the mat is 15cm x 15cm, not 15 inches as it appeared in many identical listings. And I guess 1.75mm filament is pretty standard but the nozzle on the MYNT3D is tiny, 0.9 or 0.8mm which makes filling anything really tedious (or seems like it would I ran out of filament, also less than expected before I got to do any solid areas).

3D pens are closer to a glue gun with a power feed than a 3D printer and the techniques are interesting. Mostly worked as expected, but the ultra thin output tended to curl away and not just from the end, doing a curve often would pull straight as I went around the bend.

It worked as expected except for the scale. What's funny is looking at any images, even their own website, the hands involved are scaled down. The image of the motorcycle has a purposefully staged extrusion coming from the light that is as big as the feed filament.

I don't thing I'm going to keep this pen. It's great for what it is, but it's going to be like coloring a wall with a sharpened color pencil. Even at the scale I want to do (miniature terrain and toys stuff) this is too small- anything I could make by hand at this scale would require far more dexterity than I have- I mean it's a good scale for a minifigure, but without the computer behind the print that scale is not realistic.

Also I know I promised a door stop but the amount of filament (one whole color used in pic) is rather lacking. More coming tomorrow evening.

So I doubt I'll keep this pen, however I do really like the pen as a thing to make with. The 3Doodler Create+ was my backup choice, it has two nozzles but only takes "proprietary" straight filament pieces. Considering I burned through 2.5' of the sample even with the small size the cost (or time to straighten filament) is a real concern. Back to researching I guess.

>>1761546
>>1761557
fuck he have a stax fag here, prusa IS overpriced and most printers within its price bracket are a better deal. Compared to a 400$ creality it is better tho.

>>1761631
Nice banana hat. Yeah, 3D pens are a bit strange; they probably have their uses but I haven't really found one yet. Most 3D printers use an 0.4mm nozzle so it's at least better than that; I do agree about filling areas taking ages; something I did was make flat panels and then weld them to the frame I made rather than trying to fill out the frame by hand, due to the droopiness. I've found going slow does help with the curl/drop, but has the downside of being a bit shaky depending on how steady your hands are.

I can probably recommend the 3Doodler Create, but I haven't worked with the +; I got mine when it was on deep sale just before the + released so it was like, $12-15, which I feel is probably a much fairer price than the ~50-70 I see some 3D pens going for these days. The one downside is that mine uses 3mm filament which I didn't realize until it arrived; I had a plan to SLA print an adapter so I could slot in 1.75mm filament but that's been put on the backburner. It IS technically possible, since if I remove the "service door" and press the filament to the drive gear with my nail it works fine.

>>1761631
>>1761636
TLDR 3d pen anon thinks his pen is shit and another anon recommends his backup

>>1761636
>printers use an 0.4mm nozzle
it could be .4 mm. I couldn't easily find the specs.

>>1761638
well for one I plan to burn some more filament before deciding it's going back. As for being shit, on the contrary it's great, just not as expected. It's quite possible with some practice I'll keep it anyway- I can tell it's a quality piece. And the discussion of the 3Doodler is spot on, one of the reasons I picked the MYNT3D was being able to use scrap filament in the future.

>>1761647
>>1761631
Forgot to mention, you can almost certainly use regular 3D printer filament (which is undoubtedly cheaper) if it's not too curved. With 3mm I had feed issues unless I straightened it out, but I could still use around 50cm at a time without too many problems. Just make sure it's decent quality and you should be fine.

So I'm working on computer case mods for my Fractal Design Node 202. Of course since it's a Mini ITX case the mods are all to improve thermals. I've been out of the 3d printing game for a bit (2017). I'm using a CR-10 now. I've got some filament specific questions and want some overhang printing advice.

My plan is to mount 2x120mm fans to the gpu vent externally with a printed bracket. I will also be using the existing fan mounts inside the case to mount a duct to ensure mostly outside air is being drawn in for cooling. I cannot mount the fans internally due to the size of my graphics card.

I want to use PLA+ for the mods. I'm expecting temperatures in the case to ramp around 55 degrees Celsius max during heavy loads. Do you guys think a thin walled shroud (~3mm) would fail over time? Would PETG perform better?

I also would like to print without supports. Do you think this overhang would be okay with minimal deformation? I am willing to clean a print a bit but hate using supports unless they are absolutely necessary.

>>1761666
Might be worth it to print a narrow test piece to see how it performs. The bottom of the semicircle will definitely look worse but should print "okay" without supports, particularly if you go slow or cool it well. As long as the part you're heating up isn't subjected to too much physical force, 55C should be tolerable - it will get softer, but if it's not a load-bearing part, it should probably be okay. I've never worked with PLA+, though.

>>1761572
WE GOT A FOOKIN' PROBLEM, BOYOS

>>1761576
Why the fuck are you putting gluestick on buildtak? Your nozzle is too far from the bed, bring your nozzle closer and your prints will stick like glue without the fucking glue.

>>1761679
>>1761677
do I not need glustick on cumtak? Makes sense I guess... I don't know man I'm just out her wingin' it at like print 3, fuck the cops.

I got some of that magnetic shit I gotta cut down to size, do I need glue for that?

Thanks mesh leveling for allowing me to print literally edge-to-edge.

>>1761711
nice curved top

>>1761711

>>1756734
that still looks awful, but hey, its something

>>1761609
Ahh darn. Sorry to hear mate!

I bought the kit from here.
https://www.pvelectronics.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=140

Anti-cat device

>>1756645
Looking around for a sub 500 printer and noticed the CR-10 has two other models in the S and the v2. Are there other updated models of the listed sub 500 printers in the OP, or newer printers that deserve the recommended sub 500 spot too? Thanks.

>>1757713
The display for the Fallout terminal finally arrived.
cool-retro-term seems to run much better in raspbian now too.

>>1761942
Also just found the v2 for ~426usd in my country, which is making me even more tempted.

New Thread >>1761966

>>1761931
I'm guessing that's horizontal? Nice utility

>>1756851
Why use an LCD?

>>1760009
Different anon, but it really has extra memory?
That's why I've been holding off on it, haven't been able to get a clear answer and I know people have issues with the stock board running out.
Also, out of curiosity, does the stock board run on Marlin or is it just compatible with Marlin?

HP jet fusion 500 any good?

At work i sliced a model on a workmates PC with prusaslicer, with MK2 settings, the model barely fit the build height. Turns out the actual machine is an MK 3 (less build height). Whats going to happen when the machine runs out of build height?

I really hope the program just stops and doesnt continue by smearing the remaining amount of filament onto the print....

>>1762062
Mostly because the electronics would be much simpler compared to rigging up a crt.

My initial layer is rough, since my nozzle is too close to the bed outside the center due to a warping issue. I plan to fix this later.
However, my subsequent layers have small gaps between the lines, which indicates that the nozzle is too far from the print (and therefore the bed) in those exact same places on higher layers.
How can this be? Shouldn't all the layers be the same distance relative to each other since the machine Z-steps by the same amount each layer? A shorter first layer might cause this problem if the machine stepped up to specific heights, but it steps up by specific distances.
How would I make the nozzle closer to the bed on layers 2 and up without making it closer for the initial layer? Do I need to decrease the initial layer height from 0.2?

Looks a hell of a lot better than it did last time after a quick bit of leveling. Thanks to the anon who told me not to put gluestick on buildtak.