/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1750478
Where do I get that pug model in the op, I need him.

>>1751995
Henlo frens,
>>1751566
>>1751569
here. Today I tried to get that thing running properly again, here is my report.
>bowden tubes clear and free of obstruction
>extruder does not skip steps when not printing but just feeding onto the plate from a distance
>when nozzle is in proper printing distance extruder starts skipping steps after the 3rd or 4th layer or does not feed at all

Could It be that my extruder is just absolute garbage? Since I am a noob what should I do if this is the case?
Will just buying a better one be sufficient or do I need to fuck with the voltage of the extruder stepper? Or both?

>>1751995
gonna ask once more, does anyone know of good stores in Manhattan NYC whwere I can get filament and shit?

>>1752071
No, but why don't you just order online?
Most "shops" only want to sell a overpriced print as a service.

Tell me about print volumn anons. Is it better to get a small printer to do small work and later upgrade to a large volume, or should one just get a large volume printer and print small prints without worrying about it?

My main use would be 3d terrain for D&D, board games, and smaller models/parts/toys but I'd like the option to do masks or bigger pieces. Probably 90-95% smaller pieces.

Is a big volume printer wasteful?

>>1752088
>Is a big volume printer wasteful?
for a beginner, yes
buy some cheap shit and gain experience first

>>1752066
Would the FYSTEC bmg extruder be a good choice?

>>1752083
Was hoping to go out and get it today rather than wait, but i guess there aren't any other NYCanons ITT

>>1752161
It's doubtful there is a retail store that will have exactly what you want. Check to see if there is a store called Microcenter. The one in my state sells filament but it's not quality. There aren't many retail chains that carry that kind of thing.

>>1752088
I would not get a large printer in the beginning. It's just as easy to cut models into pieces, print them, then assemble them. If you are smart about it, it uses far, far less filament on supports as well - the only part of this Kylo Ren helmet that I used any supports on was the very front plate.

It's arguably more convenient too because a failure on one piece of the model is a lot less wasteful than a failure on a full mask.

Yeah, there's some extra sanding to get rid of seam lines, but don't be a puss about it. You can control where your seam lines fall to make sanding as easy as possible.

At my level of knowledge of finishing props and large figures, I would consider getting a large-volume printer (if I had room for it), but I wouldn't have known what to do with it in the beginning and would probably just be overly frustrated by how costly failures are. And there are a lot of failures in the beginning of this hobby that you have to learn from.

has anyone looked into Lumibee DIY?

I've never done 3d printing before, but it looks like the kind of thing that'd get me into it.

Not sure what kind of other stuff I'll need though? they mention a motor, and resin, and metal rods and such. but they don't mention any specs for the motor or anything beyond "here's the files, this is a list of the other stuff" in a (to me) very vague form.

What's the difference between using XTC3D and using the cheaper clear coat resin I can get from Home Depot?

>>1751995
Please use the new copypasta next time:

[Edition] Edition
Old thread: >>[Post number of previous thread]
All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/43ZPzsET

>Need help with prints? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Bed & extruder temperature
>Print speed

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 13-1-2019]
Under 200 USD: Creality Ender 3 Pro
Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10 or Anycubic Chiron
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3 (Mk2 or Mk3)
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot or Ultimaker
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3
Buyer beware: some chinkshit clones are garbage. Some can be genuinely good, though.
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Solidworks, Inventor, AutoCAD etc. all work, but Blender and Fusion 360 are free for most users.
Variants of Solidworks, Inventor and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
https://www.blender.org/
https://www.autodesk.com/
https://www.solidworks.com/

>>1752302
Blender is always free
Looks like product shilling to me

I'd like to see openSCAD (free as in freedom) added

I'm trying a high quality (0.1mm) print for the first time, and it's taking long enough that the corners of the square base of the print are beginning to curl upward mid-print.
Can I counteract this by heating the bed more? It's at 60C right now.
Or do I just need to focus on even more bed adhesion via tape/hairspray/etc?

>>1752316
More bed adhesion can be done using a brim.

>>1752299
Maybe formulation, check the MSDS for that. In practice, no difference.

I used casting resing (super thin, cures in 24h) in multiple coats to coat stuff, XTC (thicker and faster). Breaking the print, i could peel off the XTC, the casting resin was impossible to remove.

>>1752316
Can't speak for the heatbed as I still don't have one.

The corners cool faster
You could add a brim to help adhesion or a substantial skirt to slow cooling. Avoid drafts.
Something thats worked for me on sharp corners is to add other small parts around them or model an L around the corners.
Concentric infill seems to help a bit on some parts

>>1752321
That makes sense, I'll keep that in mind for future prints.
In fact,
>one corner now multiple millimeters risen off the bed
There's no way this print isn't going to fuck itself up later; I think I'll just stop it and reprint with a brim now. It's only been a couple of hours anyway.

Thanks, anon.

I got a question:
I need to connect my work-in-progress dry box to my CR-10 via teflon tubing. The CR-10 only has a PTFE connector on the inside to feed the nozzle, not on the outside for input. I I need to worry about affixing the tube, or just feed it as close as possible and let the extruder keep things tight?

>>1752346
You'll be fine. Your box should be airtight between usage. Put a dehumidifier inside. The designs where boxes are permanently not airtight are so silly.
The whole filament drying thing is a little misunderstood in general. It might matter for Nylon but I never had problems with PLA, PETG or TPU when storing in normal dry houshold environment.

I have a spool drier (modified fruit drying machine) in case a spool gets too humid but I never used it. I did some experiments with it but could not see a difference.

>>1752316
Use first layer temp 80°C.
Then go down to 65-70 for PLA and leave it at 80 for PETG.
Never had problems again.

>>1752316
>Can I counteract this by heating the bed more?
>>1752352
>Then go down to 65-70 for PLA

No. Just no. PLA softens and becomes weak even at like 30C, infact I remove my prints by heating up the bed while scraping, otherwise it's too difficult to remove prints without damaging them. Your first layer should be like 60C for PLA and then turn off the bed completely to maximize the stick of the first layer.

>>1752356
I've went through a lot of PLA spools in the past year with initial layer temp 80°C. Sure PLA softens there, thats the point to acheive a good bed bond.
I never have bed sticking problems. I don't use additional adhesives. PLA, PETG, TPU all great.

>I remove my prints by heating up the bed
lul wut. Just use build tak on a flexible surface man.

>>1752279
Worst thing you could do if you've no experience is try to build a DIY resin printer. You need a working FDM printer anyway to print parts for it.

>>1752368
>thats the point to acheive a good bed bond.

Glue is strongest when it's dry, not when it's wet. Sure you can heat up to 80C, but turn off the fucking bed afterwards so that the first layer can harden into glue.

I've just ordered a Ender 3 Pro.
It's my first 3d printer.
I rigged up some CAD software and figure i'd use Cura as a slicer.
I've picked out a plexiglass enclosure to keep it free of dust and rigged up some ventilation to it so it don't get too hot.
Is there anything else i should know before i start printing? Anything else i should order/get so i can start printing as soon as i put it together?

>>1752374
The hotter the bed, the deeper the extruded material can creep into the bed and bond at the initial layer. Turning down the temp after initial layer makes sense. PLA is far from liquid at 65°C-70°C maybe a little elastic and thats important for reducing tensions building up and making the print suddenly pop off. (or letting edges warp up etc)

To be fair, I have little to no experience with printing on glass. My experience counts for build tak knock offs.
I leave bed adheison problems to others

>>1752376
Just print the demo gcode with some basic pla. Cura is pretty good for 98% of things.
No enclosure needed for the start. It should work out of the box.
Careful assembly is important. Please follow this guide and not the shitty manual that comes with it:
https://youtu.be/me8Qrwh907Q

Is it worth the effort to try and build an Ultimaker using the BoM or is it a waste of time?

>>1752374
>>thats the point to acheive a good bed bond.
No, you want an adequate bed bond. Maximize and it won't come off.

>>1752403
not a waste of time, but you won't do it cheaper than they did by buying individual parts of the same quality. The stepper they buy wholesale for $5 will cost you $25-40.

>>1752066
>>1752094

anyone?

>>1752305
this
besides OpenSCAD, FreeCAD is missing too

>>1752454
I doubt that the extrusion motor is faulty.
Try pushing the filament through the hot nozzle with your hand, there should not be not much resistance.
Maybe your teflon tube is not touching the nozzle and filament globs in the gap.
Try feeding filament through the hot nozzle in the settings and see what happens.
I'd try to re-fit the nozzle properly

>>1752436
thanks

>>1752431
Which is why I already stated that you reheat the bed to remove it.

>>1752502
>Which is why I already stated that you reheat the bed to remove it.
"It's on fire!"
"Quick! Light it on fire more!"

>>1752457
Works flawlessly. It only is a problem when printing

>>1752066
>>1752094
>>1752454


Diagnose your problem first before throwing money at it. My guess is that your bed is warped like 99% of printers out there and your nozzle is too close to the bed in the high spots.

First does your hot end extrude properly when its off the bed and in the air? What material are you printing and at what temperature?

What you should do is heat up the bed, run auto home, disable the steppers and then move the printing head by hand across the bed while looking at the gap between the nozzle and the bed. You will need to get down to eye level with the nozzle and look carefully as you check it over the whole bed. 99% guarantee that your bed is warped and that your nozzle is too close in the printing spot.

>>1752503
Yeah it's pretty clear that you've never printed on buildtak or tried removing a part while the bed is hot.

>>1752508
>Yeah it's pretty clear that you've never printed on buildtak or tried removing a part while the bed is hot.
oookay. well. I'm going to back away now and leave you to your little dumpster fire, since that clearly is getting you the results you want.

>>1752507
>First does your hot end extrude properly when its off the bed and in the air?
Yes, no skipping or any other problem at all.
>What material are you printing and at what temperature?
Grey PLA by Eryone at 210°C.
>What you should do is heat up the bed
I leveled the bed over 30 times now, first with paper and then eyeballing it but never when it was hot. That could be it since it is a coated, metallic, magnetic flexibed. I will report back on this.

>>1752509
>since that clearly is getting you the results you want.

Well this is me below, so clearly yeah what I'm doing is working.

>>1751447

>>1752505
>Works flawlessly. It only is a problem when printing
For how long does it work like that? Have you tried this for more than a couple of minutes?
How long does it take for problem to appear when printing? half an hour?
Your retraction setting? Try printing with 0 retraction. It will be stringy, but you will see, if retraction is a problem.

>>1752517
>Well this is me below,
[...]
>Like why is a Prusa i3 worth 1000$
>It isn't, most of the cost is a tax for joining josef prusa's personality cult.
Ah, OK, you're just an idiot. No fixing that, sorry I said anything.

>>1752522
Yeah it figures that you'd be an i3 owner since you clearly haven't tried anything outside of recommended procedure. Do you own apple products by any chance?

How strong does a UV lamp need to be to cure SLA prints in a reasonable time?

I've seen some people using 100W lamps but that sounds like extreme overkill to me.

>>1752524
Not engaging. The only thing worse than irrational frothing fanbois are irrational frothing haters.

>>1752518
>>1752507
Just levelled the bed and tried another print. This is how far it got before the extruder started skipping again and the nozzle started to scratch and drag a little over the right half. Increasing the bed to nozzle distance during the print did not help.
Now I will try levelling the bed when it's hot.

>buy filament from the local hardware store
>"1kg"
>runs out surprisingly fast
Turns out they're selling "1kg PLA" and including the weight of the spool.

>>1752528
Is the part lifting off the bed at all? It doesn't look like it in the picture but I had to ask. Clearly the nozzle is fine in the beginning but then starts touching the print after a few layers, makes me think the z axis is not stepping properly.

>>1752528
>>1752534

A thought just occurred to me, have you tried calibrating your extruder? Maybe too much plastic is coming out for the layer height you are using.

Hold a ruler up against your extruder where the filament enters it and measure out on the filament by like 10cm, make a mark on the filament with a marker. Tell the printer to extrude like 8cm and see if there is 2cm of filament left or if it's actually feeding more than 8cm.

>>1752534
No, it had to be peeled of the bed. Indicators on the gantry say that z is level. Idk how to check if the steppers are working correctly since I am new to this hobby and already pretty frustrated desu.
Now I levelled the bed when it was 65°C and the extruder skipping steps set in even earlier. This is how far it got this time. I don't understand how the fucking nozzle keeps dragging over the print when it was levelled correctly.
Could it be a slicer problem?

>>1752547
I'd pay attention to >>1752544
first glance that looks like *massive* overextrusion, and it will definitely cause an extruder to skip.

>>1752547
>Could it be a slicer problem?

Yes. The slicer calculates the extruder feed rate based on the layer height, nozzle diameter and filament diameter. These things have to all be set properly and the extruder needs to be calibrated. You can try reducing the 'flow' or feed rate in the slicer and see if it helps, normally you would do this after checking if the extruder is in calibration.

>>1752547
>>1752552
>tl;dr: get you extrusion rate figured out, and make sure it's to within spec

>>1752544
Will do that now, just gonna go grab a ruler.

>>1752551
>>1752552
I just printed a test object that was sliced by the manufacturer since it was on the SD that came with the printer and had the same problem. Then I did another one while having the nozzle to bed distance increased by a good bit yet the extruder kept skipping.

>>1752571
>I just printed a test object that was sliced by the manufacturer since it was on the SD that came with the printer and had the same problem.
You think a Chinese vendor bothers testing anything? Silly boy, that would add to the cost.

>>1752551
>>1752552
>>1752554
>>1752576
Just did the test twice and sadly the extrusion rate seems to be spot on. Marked for 10cm and had 8cm extruded. 2cm always remained outside. Oof.

>>1752583
Ok just to be absolutely clear here, you are printing your own sliced objects right and not just trying to print the manufacturers example file over and over again because those files are always broken.

>>1752585
Pic related, first thing I printed, was a testfile with the test filament which came out okayish except for the last 3-4 layers which I could peel off by hand. That was last saturday. Idk if the extruder was skipping already back then since I was overwhelmed by the whole process and did not pay attention to it.
The problems I described set in after I tried printing an STL file from thingiverse I sliced myself using the manufacturers template and settings for cura.

>>1752594
That is atrocious. You've clearly got build issues and should probably re-build the printer following a guide or something to make sure that the belts are tensioned properly, the rollers are snug against the rails, all the axes are at right angles to each other.

Your printer also has dual z motors which I don't have any exp with, but I think if you don't align them properly it will cause the gantry to become angled which might be causing it to rub against the print.

Don't trust anything the manufacturer assembled either. Basically start over from scratch.

What is the best 2 or 3 color system?

>>1752632
you either don't care about a color or paint a print.

I'm in the middle of printing a test, and my nozzle is snagging on the print as it nears the top of the overhang test. It's not stopping the printer or shifting the print, but it makes an audible thump once in a while as the head catches on the top of the overhang and "flicks" it while it continues printing. I see it doing so as well, so it's not the extruder skipping.
I suspect this may be the cause of the ridges/bumpiness I've seen on the underside of that section in previous prints, moreso than the print speed.

Could this be due to the thin, curved, tall part warping as it cools and changing the elevation of its top slightly? Would adding a support structure help to keep this piece in place?
Although, I don't see a difference in the layer view when I toggle Print Support Structure in Creality Slicer, so I'm not sure exactly how to do that.

>>1752614
So it seems. The Crux is that the printer I got is not that common and therefore the support in forums is very limited.
Since I can't reassemble the whole thing today I investigated the slicer. I noticed one discrepancy but I don't know how, if at all, relevant it is and if it could explain the observed disruptions.
Pic related is from the .pdf guide that came with the printer for how to set up it's Cura profile.

>>1752614
Yet Cura does not accept positive values as the X min and Y min, pic related. What does that mean and what causes this?

>>1752455
Yeh but do they work for cad or 3d printing? Shells being overlapped on each other is not enough, slicers need to see a single, watertight mesh for optimal printing.

>>1752690
This makes sense anons... These are printhead values for the per object calculation. This is for the size of the printhead to the nozzle so when you are printing an object at a time it won't crash the head into other parts.

>>1752691
>Yeh but do they work for cad or 3d printing? Shells being overlapped on each other is not enough, slicers need to see a single, watertight mesh for optimal printing.
Yes they do. I use them exclusively.

>>1752594
I'll get you a configured gcode profile for sli3er and a model to print tonight. You can get slicer yourself and you should verify that there is no complex gcode in the printer settings due to that code being able to brick your printer. Do not use another anon's .gcode file.

If this gcode profile doesn't work with a verified virgin slic3r build with the correct settings then it's not a gcode problem

>>1752702
Could you lay it out for retards/beginners? Who is in the wrong here, the .pdf guide from the Company or Cura?

>>1752709
I have got a profile for Slic3r that came with the printer but I just did not use since it appeared to me that Cura is the preferred and most prolific slicer software.
Did you take a look at the two screenshots above? Could it be possible that the first Cura .gcode did something to the printer that broke it?

>>1752684
>Could this be due to the thin, curved, tall part warping as it cools and changing the elevation of its top slightly?

Yes, that is exactly what it is.

>>1752690
>Yet Cura does not accept positive values as the X min and Y min, pic related. What does that mean

Could be nothing, could be that cura is made by gays that just flipped the values for whatever reason as they raped the rest of cura after the 4.0 update. Try adding a custom FFF printer and set it up to match those values.

>>1752714
>Could it be possible that the first Cura .gcode did something to the printer that broke it?

Really really unlikely. Your problems are probably from poor assembly and some setting not being right somewhere. Did you set up your extruder for the correct nozzle size and filament?

My current recommendation is to just decrease your flow setting by 20% and see if over extrusion is your problem. The flow setting is hidden by default, you need to enable it under configure cura.

>>1752302
Might want to consider a caveat for lulzbot, who knows how they are going to fare with the recent acquisition...

>>1752455
freecad is awesome

>>1752725
>>try adding a custom FFF printer and set it up to match those values.
That is what I did, the only profile I could load was material related, the other stuff I had to manually copy from the .pdf via adding custom FFF.

>>1752725
>>Your problems are probably from poor assembly and some setting not being right somewhere
I did follow the instructions to a t but I will reassemble it anyways tomorrow.
>>Did you set up your extruder for the correct nozzle size and filament?
As in Cura? Pic related are my settings.
>>Flow
I just reduced it from 100% to 80%
I just read in a forum that this printer does not perform well with speed exceeding 45mm/s so I tuned that down from 60mm/s to 40mm/s.
Should I enable Z-hop when retracted?

>>1752736
>Should I enable Z-hop when retracted?

Meh, I've never tried it.

>I just read in a forum that this printer does not perform well with speed exceeding 45mm/s

Sounds strange. From what I can tell that printer should be as good as an ender 3 with more features.

>I did follow the instructions to a t but I will reassemble it anyways tomorrow.

To be clear, your uneven vertical surfaces on prints is from assembly issues. The skipping extruder is from something else.

>>1752741
Oh well, I will give it another try tomorrow. Thanks for your support so far.

>>1752714
wait, you already had a preconfigured slic3r profile?
literally use the defaults on that and see if it really is a cura problem baka.

also send a picture of the z leadscrew and your zsteps.
extrusion isnt the problem if your z screw is squishing your prints, if it's the correct height then reduce extrusion.
also if you post the cura gcode its not that hard for other anons to open the file and see if its some weird config problem, you're not goig to dox yourself if you just post a pastebin of it

print the cube in sli3r if you already have a config

>>1752760
The printer had 3 preconfigured profiles come with it, one for Cura, one for slic3r and one for Simplify 3D.
>also send a picture of the z leadscrew and your zsteps.
I am not at the location of the printer atm and coud only deliver tomorrow.
>print the cube in sli3r if you already have a config
Which cube? The one I posted earlier? That was an already sliced gcode from the manufacturer.

>>1752632
>2 color
Dual extrusion or IDEX
>3+ colours
MMU2S, Palette, or Diamond hotend

>>1752768
slice it with the stl you have been using for cura, dont sweat the photo, I'm thinking it has to do with the z axis speed or acceleration causing the bracket to slip, post it when you can.

now for the gcode post the one that came with the printer AND the cura made one(slic3r isnt that important, just wanna see if they used an incorrect config for cura), that cura one didnt look like a cube so I'm hoping its not some weird slicer bug.

>>1752776
Gcodes are on the SD card in the printer but I can tell you exactly what the round print in the pictures and it's configuration was.
thingiverse /thing:2399623/files the first file.
Draft 0.2mm, 30% infill, Adhesion. Anything else was recommended settings, using the Cura files from eryonedotcom forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=179

>>1752372
I've got access to one to print off of, just not one that I own.

I'm doing my research for getting my first 3D printer, and so far everything points towards the Ender 5 series since it's mostly an upgraded Ender 3; either the 5, 5 Pro or 5 Plus. I see critiques for them all out there but it's hard to say if they are really widespread, anyone have any experience with one?

Additionally, what Creality reseller (if any) would you guys recommend? Some seem to have great customer service and other total shit tier customer service

>>1752783
Start with looking into diying an i3 clone before trying to fuck with resin.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2916907
The notes on this thing say "3 perimeters, 3 tops/bottoms." By perimeter, I assume it means the shell thickness, which is a multiple of the nozzle size. However, my slicer also says that top/bottom thickness should be a multiple of the layer height, in this case 0.15.
By 3 and 3, does it mean I should be doing 0.45mm top/bottom thickness and 1.2mm shell thickness? Or should I be doing 3x the nozzle size for the top and bottom instead of 3x the layer height?
It seems weird to me for the sides to be more than 2x as thick as the top and bottom, so I thought I'd ask in case I was misunderstanding.

We're going where no FDM printer has gone before.

>>1752818
YOU CANT PRINT GUN THATS ILLEGAL
!!!!!

>>1752818
What is that, a gun for ants?

>>1752822
Those ants better pray I don't catch them on the fuckin streets.

>>1752825
cash me outsieh houbadah

>>1752803
These should be abstract settings in the slicers I've seen and you shouldn't need to do math, since you just enter the number of perimeters/layers you want and it'll calculate the rest. Layer height isn't directly correlated with nozzle size, up to a point. You shouldn't need to calculate things based off your nozzle size if you're using the standard .4 that most printers these days come with; and yes, the sides are thicker than the top and bottom in this specific case.

>>1752803
From the pic it looks to me that the links are so tiny that 3 perimeters would basically mean that the whole link would consist out of walls (100% infill basically) so the top and bottom thickness aswell as infill settings shouldn't matter.

>>1752834
>since you just enter the number of perimeters/layers you want and it'll calculate the rest
Even in the "basic" settings, my only options in Creality Slicer for setting perimeters and number of top/bottom layers are specifying the thickness in millimeters.
The only settings more basic than these are the quickprint settings, which are literally just material, layer height, and supports/brim/raft.

>>1752838
>creality
Dang, I wasn't even aware they had their own slicer, I always thought people went for Slic3r or Cura for those printers. In general, though, your top/bottom layers will be thinner than the sidewalls Just Because, and it's something you'll learn to tune yourself over time depending on what you need. 2 perimeters is fine for 90% of things, 3 perimeters when you need some extra strength, and anything over 4/5 is either overkill or you _really_ need to make sure the part's solid. Bottom and top layers are a bit different since they're built up flat and have different weakness to breakage than the sidewalls (they're less likely to delaminate or split unless you have a low infill).

>>1752838
just use cura instead

>>1752351
my TPU seems a little bubbly, but I too just dried out my filament in a food dehydrator and store my filaments in a tote with a gasket, and about 2 lbs of dried silica kitty litter. The litter is a little dusty, but I store it in socks and blow out the dust as i pour it. So far the litter/socks are keeping the tote's humidity at 10%. I have not drilled any holes in the box yet, so we'll see how long it stays dry once the box is connected to the printer. Thanks for the info.

>>1752356
It depends on the filament, man. Sometimes just the color will change up your settings. I am printing black PLA right now that will not cooperate below 220 C. I heat the bed up between 70 and 75 then let it drop to 68-70. I could probably go lower, but I've had big prints fail and now I don't take chances. The next time I print something large, it will have a raft or a fat skirt.

>>1752825
dude, post your print settings. That's fucking legit! Lego Bruce Wayne's parents are fucked.

We're printing Punpun, bros.
The model I found was super small so I had to upscale it in Cura like 7000%, which makes it look kinda eh.
Hopefully it comes out better than it looks in Cura, then I can sand, prime and paint.

>>1752884
>which makes it look kinda eh.
Are you talking about the visible polygons?
I believe in programs like Blender you can subdivide surfaces like that to smooth them out a bit.

>>1752887
Yeah, though I've had models with visible polygons like that print fine. I guess we'll see how it comes out and then go from there.
Thanks for the heads up about Blender though, I haven't dug too deep into that stuff yet.

>>1752868
What I would really like to see is a heating path right between the spool and the filament inlet. Drying right before usage. Should not be too hard to build.

Thats what they do in professional injection moulding. Keeping the humidity out in store is impossible anyways so the resin goes through a drying heater before the plastification screw hopper.

>>1752890
>What I would really like to see is a heating path right between the spool and the filament inlet. Drying right before usage. Should not be too hard to build.
exists.

>>1752884
Maybe it was designed in inches and your slicer is reading mm.

>>1752887
>>1752888
Blender has a subsurface modifier, but the model has to be in quads for it to work

So I know this isn't /3/ but I find Fusion 360 ... difficult, despite an engineering degree and experience with AutoCAD up to v14 back in the late 90s.

Is blender more intuitave at all? Is blender technical enough to do parts, or more for shaping models?

>>1752969
>Is blender more intuitave at all? Is blender technical enough to do parts, or more for shaping models?

No and no. Blender is an art tool, period. If you think fusion 360 is hard then blender is going to be a nightmare. Pirate solidworks if you're just making shit at home.

>>1752969
>I find Fusion 360 ... difficult, despite an engineering degree and experience with AutoCAD up to v14 back in the late 90s
sounds like the software isn't the problem
just get up to speed and everything will be fine (=watch some tutorials and shit)
and there is more than F360:
>>1751995
>>What CAD software should I use?
>Solidworks, Inventor, AutoCAD etc. all work, but Blender and Fusion 360 are free
and as OP is outdated:
>>1752305
>openSCAD
and:
>>1752455
>FreeCAD

>>1752982
>OP is outdated
>Mentions openSCAD and freeCAD

>>1752969
How many hours have you got in Fusion? It took me about a month of mondays to get into it properly, and now I'm stuck using Solidworks without some of the niceties of Fusion - and all of the errors SW has.

>>1752991
yes, what do you mean?

>>1752994
I had about 40 hours before I got comfortable but still felt like a hack, but that was like 10 months ago. I got to the point where I could bang my way through doing something from scratch, but modifying anything someone else made is just beyond me- shit just falls apart and I have no idea why. I've kind of been waiting until I can get a printer of my own so I can send the shit and see if it passes muster for printing (or slicing even), and in the meantime I've lost what little pathetic skill I had gained.

Oh well, I guess I should just fire up 360 again and start banging again.

>>1752991
>Mentions openSCAD and freeCAD
They're old school but not out of date. Both have active, enthusiastic development.
I wish FreeCAD spent more time fixing bugs than adding new features, but hey. Such is life.

>>1752818
>>1752825
i see you watched that video too.

>>1753041
What video?

>set heat bed temp to 65 and hot end to 205 in Cura
>start the print from SD card
>when printer reaches set temps it autonomously adjusts 65 to 60 and the 205 to 210
What is going on here?

>>1753051
Your gcode has temperature settings. Super common slicer feature. Plug the SD into your computer and do a ctrl-f for M104, M109, M140 and M190. These are the ones that regulate temperature, your file may not contain all of them.

>>1753058
But I sliced it myself and set the temperatures before slicing. I don't understand who is overwriting my settings?

>>1753061
Go into your printer settings and look at the start gcode. It sounds like you might have M104 and M140 set to the variable (should look like {material_bed:temperature}) but M109 and M190 set to 60 and 210.

>>1753051
You probably have seperate settings for initial layer and initial bed temp from the printing temperature. Also check your machines start g-code.

>>1753041
No. What video. Post it now.

I printed this dragon with my Ender 3 to help feng shui things. While it doesn't look too bad, I've noticed some ripples on the scales and underextrusion on the whiskers and claws. Could this be a result of the inner and outer walls being at different speeds? Right now I am printing at 60mm/s with the walls at 40mm/s.

What's the largest volume printer I can get without obscene prices

>>1753141
yes

>>1753141
I've got a 1000x200x200 in the works
wanna buy for 400€?

>>1753151
which direction is the 1000?

>>1753151
>1000x200x200
I smell arms

>>1753176
might want to shower more often then.

>>1753151
>>1753164
>>1753176
>>1753183
I just hope it's not yet another anon who's about to learn that a CNC gantry doesn't work all that great for printing.

here's your most likely problem anon
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hgfTVNBRRTo

>>1753190
>The chad Kugelumlaufspindel vs. the virgin Gewindestange

>>1753001
>modifying anything someone else made is just beyond me- shit just falls apart and I have no idea why
Unfortunately, I've found that usually happens because of two reasons: either the person who made the model is a complete mong and can't dimension/constrain sketches properly so it all goes to shit when you edit it, or it's been through different file converters which just keep the shape of the sketch without any of the relations, which undefines the whole thing.

>>1753260
>either the person who made the model is a complete mong and can't dimension/constrain sketches properly
cross-constraints with external objects are the Model Killer.

>>1753268
>cross-constraints with external objects
Solidworks is an absolute mong when it comes to this. They should just not let you do it since it always, always creates circular references that the solver cannot deal with on rebuild.

>>1752267
>trying to alter some sculpted 3D pieces from Thingiverse to be able to print them more easily
>the 3D files are the raw sculpts
>250 mb for half a small faceplate
>Maya can't handle Booleans or polycount reductions and crashes
>Meshmixer can't handle a plane cut and crashes
>Netfabb can't handle a repair and crashes
>Cura can't handle slicing it and crashes

bruh

>>1753279
don't tell me you are an win7 8GB RAM dude, why may threy dee fun does crash

>>1753282
Me computer dont does big 3ders :(

>>1753279
Oh come on. Even freakin' FreeCad can handle this stuff.

>>1753279
Blender 2.8 has become pretty good at handling this kind of stuff and the decimate/ remesh modifiers actually work.

>>1753279
this is your punishment for having shit taste

>>1753298
I fucking hate the sequels but this is a sexy-ass helmet

>>1753279
>Kylo-Ren-Faceplate-DAMAGED

>>1753300
Kylo is unironically the only thing from the Didley trilogy that people actually like

>>1753304
unironically true

>>1753279
as a person who keeps their models ~200mb you gotta have some vram to get smooth models; its also a very good method to unbake uvs(which also should be super sampled) and get ready for printing. I usually solidify with meshmixer just to destructively make the model equal density in the end (and around 150mb for complex models), all for not seeing sharp corners that slicers like to switch layers on.

>>1753300
Are you black or a white girl who fucks blacks?

A gold benchy made with Eryone silk gold PLA.
Silk PLA seems to jam quickly.

In cases like this where one has a sudden large 90 degree overhang, intuitively I can't imagine that this part of the structure could possibly support itself while being built.
However, this is a tall piece, and it has one of these on both ends so I can't just put it against the bed, and it also has screw threads which I don't think would print correctly if I laid it on its side. If I'm wrong about that, please let me know.
But otherwise, do I have any option except to essentially encase the entire thing in supports?

>>1753269
The most prominent button on the sketch toolbar is literally "Block external references". The reason for this is because it's sometimes very convenient to be able to just directly copy a face from one part into another part, and as long as you keep the two mated solidworks handles this just fine. You simply need to be aware that you should toggle off external references whenever you don't want them. If you want to be extra certain you can right-click other parts in the assembly and press hide. They'll still be there, they just won't get referenced unless you go out of the way to do so.

I plan to make some "aluminium" parts by printing in PETG and then coating the prints in XTC-3D mixed with aluminium powder. What colour PETG would be best for this? I assume white or transparent?

>>1753413
>XTC-3D mixed with aluminium powder
If you want a more solid metal coating (and don't need it to be actual aluminum, just metallic) you could alternatively use conductive paint and electroforming to deposit a coat of nickel or something on the surface of the object.

>>1753420
It's a part that fits onto a large aluminium assembly. It doesn't need to be actual aluminium, but I want it to look as if it's an original part.

>>1753334
weird, mine is smooth (both no name amazon brands) and lets me get flawless organic sides if I'm careful with the print speeds and choose the seam location

>>1753164
depth

>>1753355
Can you split it in two and epoxy it together?

>>1753355
normally in a situation like that, I would split it down the middle, print each side aligned with the bed, then glue it together. Alternatively, if you 3d model the supports yourself, you can place them a bit more strategically and precisely. So you can avoid having a huge block of wasted support material

>>1753355
I wouldn't print a structural part like this any ways because layer to layer adhesion is the weakest link in a 3d print. I would print it on its side and use taps to cut the threads properly. Or if it's big enough then print the threads separately as inserts and glue them in.

>>1753409
>and as long as you keep the two mated

This is the problem here. I need external references to make sure two parts fit together properly, but then I also need to move the two parts to see clearances and the assembly. But that's fine I can live with not moving them, the shit stew comes entirely when you have to modify the reference part and then suddenly the solver dumps its spaghetti everywhere and turns all of the reference constraints into invalid ones which you then have to spend time deleting and replacing with new ones. And if you're really unlucky it will completely fuck up the reference sketch which is used as a base for the rest of the part and can make recovering the part effectively unviable.

I am still using solidworks 2011 however, maybe they improved things, idk.

i fixed my printer

>based random tennessee college put their 2020 solidworks activation code on an open access webpage

WE OUTCHEA

>>1753507
I'm using 2016 and while I have had the solver fuck things up when I get sloppy a time or two, as long as I don't actually mess with the mates it's never done this. I haven't used 11 but in 16 it's really easy to hide individual parts of an assembly if you want better visibility, opening them separately and then reintegrating if you want to make something completely isolated, or just using the explode feature to temporarily move the assembly apart. The last one does mess up referencing for new sketches, but anything old is preserved.

DAMN I FUCKING CALLED IT
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hvw3DrVAeTA

I have big brain
get a 32 bit board anons

>>1753663
When I got my 32 bit board I raised the buffer from the original (ten commands or something like that, absolutely tiny) to two hundred, and even though I use octoprint I've never since had the printer slow down because it ran out of buffer, even when it's doing curves or .5mm wide infill or something else like that.

An alternative is to print from SD. Even if you have a tiny buffer SD reads much faster than serial ASCII so you're very unlikely to run into problems.

>>1753667
its the display or some feature in firmware thats polling the sensors or data too frequently, most printers under 60mm/sec shouldn't have issues, but most printers can reach speeds higher than 60 these days.

Hey, I have an opportunity to buy a CubeX duo for 80 dollars. I know that I'll need to replace the controller, is it worth buying it for 80 + getting a controller for some more or should I just buy an Ender 3 without messing around with the Cubex? I have some experience with 3D printing but not a lot.

>>1753801
I mean the literal first search result for cubex duo is an amazon link with reviews showing how shit it is. The frame doesn't look anywhere near stiff enough to be a good printer.

Even all of the top youtube results show it being a literal POS without extensive mods and even then the print quality isn't on par with an ender 3 or 5.

>>1753808
Yeah, what confuses me about that is that professional 3D printing sites all give it a good review.

>>1753811
From what year? This thing was state of the art in 2013, 3d printing has come a looong way since then.

Is it normal to have to re-level my bed every couple of prints? It's starting to get a little annoying. I don't get how it keeps becoming un-level in the first place, I hardly ever touch it aside from using an exacto knife to pop prints off of it.

Despite owning a 3D printer, almost everything I make is 2D

>imagine printing something in 2020 without using the gradient infill

just kill yourself.. just do it.. there is no place for your in this world anymore

>>1753925
noone cares really

>>1753927
this IDK why cnc kitchen hides in here, teaching tech has more appropriate content for new ender users that seem to love this thread.
he's just a better tom...

>>1753925
>imagine printing with ''infill'', ''filament'' or ''resin'' in 2020
Imagine being this poor

Im going to replace my power supply to my cr10 I've had for a year cus my heated bed and extruder both opted out at the same time. I got no broken wires or anything specifically wrong, happened when I turned it up the bed to a 100 for 2 day print.

Any suggested links of which power supply i should order? Idk if they are all made equal. Some are in the 20$ and some others are in the 40$. Preferably one that wont break in a year.

>>1753928
>teaching tech has more appropriate content

TT is by far my first go to for anything 3d printing related because of how useful and unbiased his information is while the rest of the youtubers are busy sucking prusas dick and throwing a fit about genuine parts. Especially that faggot anus from makers muse, the amount of shit he gave the ender 3 when it came out and then it turned out that it completely mogged the i3 in print quality and price when anyone who wasn't a flapping biased asshole tried using it. That kind of shit should be grounds for a lawsuit, you can almost kill a brand before it takes off with a bad review like that where you try your hardest to fuck up the product on purpose.

Thomas salamander is a close second for useful information. That clueless boomer chet or whatever the fuck is clueless and make anything is just a wannabe mexican angus. Don't get me started on 3d printing turd, I wish I could block his channel completely, 0 useful information and it looks like he spends most of his time snorting lines of coke off a printer than actually making anything he didn't find on thingiverse to upscale.

>>1754065
A meanwell PSU with a higher wattage rating than the old one.

>or anything specifically wrong
There is something specifically wrong, but you don't have the skills to figure it out.

I'm confused does Prusa have a CoreXY machine or not? I thought it was like the MK5 but I get buried in results calling the MK3 and prusa mini corexy and now I'm confused.

I jsut want a dual extruder CoreXY for a newbie. spoon feed me pls.

>>1754089
>I jsut want a CoreXY

No you don't, you don't even know what corexy is. It's retarded like a delta.

>does Prusa have a CoreXY machine

No.

>>1754089
lmao dude

>>1754089
>I jsut want a dual extruder CoreXY for a newbie
That's not a thing.

>>1753924
Do you change colors with increasing layer heights, or are the different colours all on the same layer?

To the fine people who suggested to dampen the vibrations of my printer by setting it on a concrete plate: Thank you very much. I doubted you, but the results speak for themself.
My apartment is incredibly resonant but I cant hear a thing

>>1754093
stepping the bed down seems intuitively better than jerking it back and forth. is there a legitimate reason to not start with a CoreXY as first printer?

>>1754099
>>1754095
y-you t-too. I guess that's why my 1990 era googlefu isn't turning up anything easy. I just want to print sick plastic and fuck bitches.

>>1754103
did you just like use a paver from homedepot? I've got a granite countertop I'm planning to install in my work area for the printer.

>>1753523
obtained

>>1754105
Yeah, exactly
I am willing to bet granite works even better, as the density is a little higher

>>1754104
>stepping the bed down

That's not what corexy is. What you want is an ender 5 which is a non i3 style cartesian. Corexy is a level of retardation no one needs to go into.

>>1754104
>stepping the bed down seems intuitively better than jerking it back and forth
that may be but in practise it doesn't matter at all

>>1754089
Prusa's only up to MK3, and I have no idea who is saying the Mini is CoreXY, since that's not only wrong but *incredibly* wrong. They are developing the Prusa XL, though, which will be CoreXY but as of yet unannounced/unrevealed.

>>1754103
Glad it worked as well for you as it did for me.

>>1754105
Any cheapo heavy plate should work, the one I have is like an inch thick and 14 inches on a side. I'm curious to see how well granite would dampen it.

>>1754078
I know what you're pointing at and it's not actually broken I tested it

>>1754089
That's the Ender 5 you're looking for - but it's not a coreXY.

>I jsut want a dual extruder CoreXY for a newbie
Anything but reglar cartesian kinematics is not for newbies, as is dual extruder.

>>1754104
>stepping the bed down seems intuitively better than jerking it back and forth.
It does make sense, just look at Ultimaker - you don't even need coreXY for that. Problem is, it requires a more sturdy, more expansive frame, increases hotend inertia, and complicates your feeding setup. It has distinct downsides which can then be solved by going to a Bowden setup - and then you have all the downsides of a Bowden setup. If you compare coreXY vs a Z-bed XY-head printer like the UM, the only advantage of coreXY is lowering hotend inertia at the cost of severe complexity.

>>1754122
I'm not talking about the black goop. I mean if you had the technical know how you would trace the outputs back until you found the point where the voltage is last present and that would tell you which part was fried. That or trace the mains voltage on the input side and see where it disappears, but you would likely kill yourself trying to do that.

The first obvious things to check would be any fuses and not all fuses look like a glass bulb.

>>1754065
>>1754147
Actually technically speaking if your printer still turns on then there's nothing wrong with the power supply since I think the only connections to the mainboard are 12V. It's the mainboard that controls power to the heated bed and extruder.

>>1754100

Anon is likely using this method:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KV2AjyowXX4

>>1754172
This is a "why didnt i think of this earlier?" level clever trick.
Thanks for letting us know.

>>1754172
I've done this more than a few times. It's also advisable to have registration marks of some kind on the first layer for every print so that every STL is the same size and will be aligned with each successive print when centered on the buildplate. Those registration marks then simply need to be removed as well as any skirts that were printed for each layer before starting the next print.

are there any good troves of patreon SLT mini files anywhere?

>>1754089
as a person who actually owns a core xy machine; you dont want a corexy.
you sacrifice extrusion for very accurate speed. you (should) have to have nice 2x resolution steppers, special drivers (tmc or the ones the beagle board kit uses), (should use) 24v to run those drivers with ANY torque, you require 32 bit boards (dual extrusion requires a fully powered duet for the corexyu you want (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mMRnG_n2i84)) you also want carbon rods for an optimal hypercube build or you'll wear down your expensive polymer bushings. dont even think about putting two hotends on there.
printing at insane speed should be left to the deltas, you want an Hbot from openbuilds or a standard system. flexing with a corexy is dumb, dont get a kit corexy.

>>1754104
thats a darwin/"cube" design, I love darwin designs, buy an ender5 and mod it to be IDEX
tool switching corexy is the current panultimate design due to the position of the motors allowing for a whole row of extrudes in typically unused space. there are no corexy prusas, he made the I3, a mendel clone and its fucking pathetic original wiki page calling it the model T of 3d printers https://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Mendel at its "i2" point (although china ruined the whole nameing scheme for iteration 3 prusa mendel)

>>1754123
you cant call an ulltimaker a standard Cartesian printer, the stepper motors are stationary due to the custom, expensive carriage system thats really hard to DIY.

>>1754114
actually it matters a lot, its a key weakness in the mendel design

here's our god explaining the history of reprap and hobbyist darwin options at the time https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CUwS6S4aNCA

>>1754228
>you sacrifice extrusion for very accurate speed
I don't follow. Slower extrusion, but accurate prints? Fast speed, but small nozzle size?

>>1754233
you cant extrude exotics, flexibles, use a drect extruder, use a pellet extruder, use a multi head extruder nor a mixing extruder. you have limited cooling, the largest hotend you could get away with is the traditional volcano and anything longer than that will flop around unless you can machine a custom carriage.

heh

>>1754228
>here's our god explaining the history of reprap and hobbyist darwin options at the time https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CUwS6S4aNCA

LMAO, the amount of money and effort he put into polishing that turd and at the end of the day it still prints like shit. He would've done much better starting from scratch and designing his own printer.

>>1751995
goddamn it I always cringe when I see "my other EVs are radio controlled"

Is it likely to damage or otherwise mess up my printer if I cut the power in the middle of a print as opposed to stopping the print via the UI?

>>1752594
this looks bad man, my chink printer does like 10 times better than this abomination...

>>1754103
If you have your printer sitting on a wooden tabletop or similar it will resonate like crazy.
I've printed these damper feets and they work really well. I'd say my ender 3 is only half as loud as before.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3520264

I'm not going to get lung AIDS if I print PLA while I'm in the room, right? In the short term, at least.
I haven't noticed any respiratory irritation, but I keep seeing stuff about ultrafine particles and whatnot. My bedroom's the only place I can put the printer, though.

>>1754438
No and no. ABS and Nylon smell like stink and can give you a headache without proper ventilation though.

>>1754436
Is it only a noise thing, or do the vibrations affect the printer itself?
I haven't had a problem with the noise on a plywood table, but I'd be interested if it'd reduce the likelihood of the bed going out of level or the print fucking up somehow.

>>1754438
>I'm not going to get lung AIDS if I print PLA while I'm in the room, right?

Don't use print temps any higher than 225C if you're running a bowden hotend. Chinese teflon starts breaking down around 230-240C and printers can handle this for a while, but you don't want to be in the same room while it's printing.

Converting my anycubic kossel to 24v.
Would a 150mm round silicone heating pad suffice for the 230mm diameter build plate?
I can't find a bigger one for shit.

>>1754451
>bowden hotend
Does this just mean a hotend with a bowden tube attached?
I'm printing at 200C right now regardless, but if I wanted to go higher, couldn't I just replace the hotend/tube with parts that aren't shitty Chinese parts?

>>1754426
not really, emergency stops cuts all power. if there is a problem you should cut off the AC power tho, some printers have power loss position saving, but it requires a drop in power slow enough to save progress

>>1754455
>>1754451
retards you the bowden tube is on the cold side, you should use an all metal for petg, but you can get away with a Teflon lined hotend for most things anyone is printing with and it works very well for weaker extruder motors. the fumes issue is when you print nylons or most petgs at their max temp, by that point keep the prints short and windows open. a bowden tube rarely goes above 80 degrees because its on the COLD end, you can use a bowden tube to print nylon, just dont use a teflon lined HOT end.

>>1754436
HA marlin doesn't have a built-in anti-resonance filter

>>1754426
The issue you might have is with clogging. If you cut the power there's no cooling on the hot end, which might allow heat to creep further up the tube. If the plastic melts in the cold end the extruder has to work much harder to push it through.

I doubt it's really a big risk. I've cut the power a bunch of times and have had no issues, both with all-metal and with PTFE hotends.

>>1754461
>retards you the bowden tube is on the cold side
almost on every single chink printer the bowden mates up straight to the nozzle
i've had my chink bowden hotends start degrade with time even though i only printed PLA in the ordinary temperatures

>>1754455
It's not necessarily bowden that is the problem, when your hotend construction is such that there is a teflon tube that directly mates to the nozzle (this includes almost all cheap chink bowden designs) then you might have issues, i wouldn't want to be in the same room with them.

Is there a solution to this other than a raft?
Large pieces print fine. Small pieces like these, gear teeth, etc tend to partially come off the print bed with the head as it moves away from each piece.

>>1754617
Acceleration to 50, first layer speed to 20.

>>1754617
Initial layer temp 80°C, afterwards 65°C for PLA, 80°C for PETG.
Wipe the bed with alcohol before

Are there any resources for clever mechanics?

I wan't to design a box where the lid gets opened and locked by some kind of trigger or lever when held with one hand.
I can't come up with a design

>>1754617
speed

>>1754539
no I call complete BS on a temperature based degradation of any PTFE under 250 http://www.agcce.com/brochurespdfs/technical/PE-guide-English.pdf
but china is retarded and indeed removed the V6 ptfe insert

>>1754633
Theres something like 101 mechanical movements.

For your project, the arm that will hold the lid open is fixed but free to rotate o. One end. On the other end it is free to rotate and move in one axis on a track. At the farthest range of motion, there is a larger diameter hole in the track than the rest, and the axle spinning it through the track also has a wide shoulder to match. It should be spring loaded against the track so at the end of travel the larger shoulder snaps into the larger hole from the spring. This will hold it in one position.

To release it, push on the arm against the spring and move it so the large shoulder is no longer in the hole.

You have probably seen one of these already in your life.

>>1754642
I really wish I was on LSD to be able to picture what you're writing.

Can you post any example of that mechanism? My head is fixed but free to rotate o.

>>1754662
http://507movements.com/

I don't have access to a 3D printer but I have solidworks and know how to use it, I can make some pretty complex models. How likely am I to be able to design a couple things and put the .stls online for sale for normies with 3dprinters to use? I'm unemployed so I feel like this would be a good use of my time in the meantime

>>1754669
>put the .stls online for sale
Ends up bought a couple of times and then downloaded from Facebook groups a thousand times instead.

>>1754669
yeh people do this all the time, but solidworks seems more like work contractors do unless you stole it

>>1754672
Welp, I mean I just want some extra money. Should I "watermark" it at least so I get some recognition? I honestly wouldn't mind if they get re-uploaded but at least some recognition would be merited
>>1754674
You're asking if I stole solidworks? I've got the student version from my college, though its been a year since I got the license. I do have the pro version somewhere in my old PC too but I haven't used it.

>>1754674
Yeah, I stole it

Large prints lift from the edges and have poor adhesion. What do? Do I have to use a glue stick like a pleb?

>>1754716
BRIMS MOTHERFUCKER, DO YOU USE THEM?

>>1754639
That's funny because in practice everyone has problems with the bowden not being snug enough or coming loose overtime which creates a cavity right at the nozzle and is way worse in terms of chances of causing a clog over a tube to tube gap in the heatsink.

Infact people have modded the PTFE insert back in to avoid this problem.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fb4XMbZ0iA4

>>1754617
What material?

Get a better build surface, fake buildtak or a sheet of polycarbonate works well. A heated bed is necessary for wimpy build surfaces like glue stick, but it actually works against you on proper build surfaces like buildtak.

Is there a type of nut that's narrower than normal?
I need something that fits an M4 thread, but that is narrower than the 5mm width of an M4 nut. I first thought of ny-lock, but it turns out they're just taller, not narrower.

>>1754740
>but that is narrower than the 5mm width of an M4 nut.
Normal nut is supposed to be 7mm,
Just use a file or grinder to make it smaller. But if you plan to go smaller than 5mm, that won't work, the walls would get too thin.

>>1754745
My bad, I meant smaller than 7mm. I was hoping there'd be some ready solution, I'll need twenty of these things. Oh well.

>>1754758
they might exist, but are not very common.
If it helps you, I have tapped m4 thread a couple of times directly into plastic and it worked quite well

I want to design a washing and curing station for my Anycubic Photon that's cheap to build and post it on Thingiverse. Is it worth getting a real magnetic stirrer or would /diy/-ing one out of a PC fan be preferrable? The latter would be more diy-friendly for anyone wanting to build one, but with chinese stirrers being about 30$ it hardly seems worth the extra effort. Also what would be a more easy to source material for the frame - 20mm aluminium pipes or 20x40 profiles like in the pic that you can get from the hardware store? I have a bunch of these 20x40's left over from an old insect screen frame.

>>1754740
>>1754745
You could drill & tap an M3 nut

>>1754740
they're called jam nuts but all the m4 I can find are 7mm. plastic version or square nut version might be thinner.

>>1754679
>>1754669
Miniatures and terrain are the big earners these days for people who sell stls

>>1752267
I done all this with a Anet A8. All 1:1.
Print in parts and glue. Simple.

>>1753663
The problem is that USB is absolutely shit, so lets all throw money at faster computers rather then fixing that.

How do you folks deal with the stink of resin ?

>>1754942
no, use the wifi features(esp32 or file-based octopi), 32 bit boards dont need to be tethered nor need to be sd carded if your host or bus is shit.

>>1754932
the absolute madman

>do leveling test
>squares in each corner are fine
>square in the center literally doesn't stick at all and just forms a ball of plastic
If it was a leveling issue, at least one of the corner squares would be fucked. I wiped the bed down with 70% IPA already; do I really have to take it off and use soap and water to get it usable again?
It's not a manufacturing defect or anything, it printed fine yesterday. It's an Ender 3 glass bed, if that matters.

>>1755011
when in doubt, clean your bed

>>1755024
Would cleaning it with soap and water really be more effective than cleaning it with isopropyl alcohol?

>>1755025
if you don't take the bed off the printer, how are you removing the shit that was on the bed? if its still on it, then you're just moving shit around, rather than removing it

>>1755011
>>1755025
You should be able to tell whether there is a layer of gunk on your bed or not.

Check the distance from the nozzle to the center with a folded piece of paper. If its levelled you got an adheison problem.
It can also be that the nozzle is too close to the glass.
Use 80°C for initial layer

>>1755025

I used to wash my Printbite bed with IPA (a similar surface to anycubic's ultrabase) and that made it worse. I was wondering why stuff suddenly stopped sticking until i read the instructions saying explicitly to NOT use IPA because it makes things worse. For your case, just wash the glass out with dish soap until it starts squeaking when you rub it.

>>1755011
Dropping the bed down all the way and then completely re-leveling it seems to have fixed it. I don't understand why it would have, given that the corner squares are just as good now as they were before, but it did fix it.

>>1754947
I only notice it when I'm within a foot of my Mars with the cover on.

>>1754947
I deal with it and have gotten used to it (Form 2)
Some resins have an "almost" pleasant smell, my Formlabs Durable smells like pine
The worse part is the alcohol smell from post- processing
I have no idea what cheaper resins for other printers smell like

>>1755064
Does the Mars have a carbon filter?

>>1755322

No, only the Pro version has it. It's kind of funny, people were dissing the original Photon for smelling more than the Mars even though it had a filter. The lid probably just contains all the fumes within the chamber a bit better. The downside is that without an exhaust port you can't set up a powered extraction system to vent the fumes outside, which would be the most effective solution.

>>1755341
I'm working on an exhaust system for my photon (hence the question) and I'm currently using the box it came in as a cover and exhausting that.

>>1755354

There are plenty of exhaust solutions for the Photon on thingiverse. They all require modifying the printer a bit and some sort of external fan and hose setup, but it's doable and probably a must for anybody wanting to print safely at home. Here's a few:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3006515
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3441551
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3176504

>>1755366
I look at a few of those and they didn't fit on the photon's build plate. Oh the irony! And no, I don't have an FDM printer. I haven't tried my box as a cover solution yet, but I hope it's enough.

One question I have is about filtering - I live in Quebec and and pumping hot air into the great outdoors get expensive. I was wondering if anyone had experience with home built carbon filter systems.

Ive got a ender 3 coming in the next few days, and a roll of red ABS,
What are the things I should know / programs I should use?
<3

>>1755366
Now I'm on a better computer, I can open those and they look printable on the Photon. Thanks.

Photon S newb is back.
I managed to get the first print with the sample model that was in the USB.
Now I tried to print some of my own but for some reason, the print doesn't stick to the bed and stays in the vet.
I did some googling and it said to increase the bottom exposure time so I set it to 80, but it still doesn't print.
Any help?

Pic is what I'm trying to print and the current settings.

>>1755454
Those settings seem fine. That said, I'd use Chitubox over photon's slicer. Also, have you run your .photon through the photon file validator. Also, try one model in the print so you don't waste as much resin. Also, you can pause a print. This will pull the bed high enough up so you can see if it's stuck.

>>1755459
The reason I tried to print 6 of them at once is because I tried printing 1 and it didn't stick either, so I thought it would help if I make more surface area, which didn't work.......
Anyway, I just checked the file validator and everything seems fine.
Also, it seems chitubox doesn't support .pws files. I tried .photon and .photons files but none of them show on the printer.

I'll try again with a longer exposure time and slower lift speed

>>1754716
Level your bed nigga. Do it manually

>leveling test prints perfectly
>begin printing actual thing
>brim prints perfectly
>it starts filling in the bottom layer
>suddenly extruder skipping intermittently as though the bed is too close to the nozzle, portions of the first layer look rough instead of smooth
>successive layers have gaps between some of the lines as though the bed is too far from the nozzle
>some lines just fail to print at all
What gives?
If the bed was in fact slightly too close to the nozzle, could that slight reduction in first layer height be enough to throw off all the successive layers? And what's with the lines that just didn't print at all? I checked and the extruder was still turning during those.

How could the bed be perfectly level in the corners, the sides, and the center, and yet be too close to the hot end in specific places around the center? I don't think it could've warped; it's one of those pretty thick glass beds. It's freshly cleaned, as well.

>>1755625
That's far from a perfect brim. The last time I saw a brim like that is when I accidentally set my extrusion width to half my nozzle size. You definitely need to calibrate your extruder to some extent.

>>1755668
If not perfect, it at least wasn't leaving gaps or causing the extruder to skip, despite the print doing so when beginning the actual base.
I believe I'm using the same extrusion settings that I have been so far, and I haven't seen this problem on any of my previous prints. I'll double-check this model's settings, though.

>>1755678
Did you rule out clogs or nozzle damage?

>>1755625

Are you sure everything is fine with the extruder? The hob could easily be grinding through the filament and the motor would still be turning normally on the outside. Check the motor current and for clogs or nozzle damage like >>1755680 said.

>>1755384

I never really thought about whether they're printable on the photon itself when i posted those. SLA is rarely used for functional parts because they're way too brittle. If you don't have access to an FDM printer you could try using special tough resin like Siraya Blu (which is said to smell quite a bit). Or you can always try to adapt something generic like bathroom or kitchen fan ducts.

hi guys, I bought this extruder and it came with this paper that say 5V 1A. I assume it is a mistake, has no sense to me.
In the section of questions of banggood they put that is 12v 40W. I have some way to check it, what do you think?

>>1755742
It will be 12V. They've probably been stupid and written the fans specs instead of the heaters.

>>1755745
The fan is 12v
What have no sense for me is that 5V 1A is 5W. 5W heater? have to be a mistake.

>>1755148
I've been using simple green in an ultrasonic cleaner in place of alcohol. It's worked fine so far, but simple green still kind of smells.

>>1754719
>needing brims on what i suspect is a PLA print

>>1755668
no dude it's just too low

>>1754617
>>1754716
>>1755625
>>1755742
what do you get when you buy chinkshit?

>>1754716
your build surface looks dirty. you are heating it, yeah? your filament might also be moist.

>>1755742
The resistance is 5ohm, which would give you about 30W at 12V.
The question is, if heater will work at 30W or burn up. They might be just covering their asses against warranty claims, as you kind of have to use it by default outside of the specs. Or they actually scammed you with 5W heater.
Are they any markings on heater cartridge?

On feltas magballs are considered far superior to your average tie rods right?
Is that still the case vs high end tie rods like igus KBRMs?

>>1755789
>The resistance is 5ohm, which would give you about 30W at 12V.
I just measured and it marks 4.1ohm

>The question is, if heater will work at 30W or burn up. They might be just covering their asses against warranty claims, as you kind of have to use it by default outside of the specs. Or they actually scammed you with 5W heater.
I still haven't got the ramps board to try it. Maybe I bought a replacement heater cartridge with the specifications I need.

>Are they any markings on heater cartridge?
nop

>>1755802
>I just measured and it marks 4.1ohm
35W. it should be enough power. But its hard to say if it will survive until you try it.
At least you got Thermistor Humanization...

>>1755781
yall dont have to brim or raft with PLA?
for real?
point me in the direction senpais

>>1755809
Prusa MK3

>>1755815
>Prusa MK3
nope, ender3pro

>>1755625

You have some other issues going on, bed leveling doesn't cause whole lines to not print like that. When in doubt do some cold pulls and clean out your nozzle.

>>1755816
buy a Prusa then

>>1755837
Ok Josef

I want to start fucking around with ABS, nylon and others
what enclosure and air filter setup do you lads use to avoid gassing yourselves?

After dozens of failures, I finally got a "non-failed" print.
It's a "non-failed" because it did print what I wanted but the quality isn't.
A lot of the edged became round and some of the tight spaces became merged.
idk if it's because I made a really small print (Diameter of the base is 4cm), or the printer is just incapable of the job.

What's weird is that changing the shape of the base from a square to a circle seems to have solved my "not-sticking-to-bed" issue

>>1756038
Sharp points are more likely to peel than rounded ones. I can barely make out whatever you tried to print since the resin is so dark and it's on a very bright background, as well

>>1755809
skirrt

>>1756038
>idk if it's because I made a really small print (Diameter of the base is 4cm), or the printer is just incapable of the job.
These are kind of one and the same, aren't they? A print can't be "too small" other than being so small that the printer isn't up to the job.
Either way, you could try scaling it up slightly and seeing if that helps with the issue.

>>1756038
4cm is definitely not too small for an SLA printer

>>1755890
>what enclosure
box
>air filter
why would you need that?

>>1756038
Black resin is one of the most challenging colors to print with. It's so dark that the curing light can have trouble penetrating into it. Try a longer cure time or buy a lighter colored opaque resin to try out too.

>>1752934
Blender also has a "Tris to Quads" function that works perfectly if the original model was full quad before it became an STL.

>>1753888
Replace bed springs with stiffer springs, or use better nuts.

I don't get why this isn't working.

>>1756268
As far as I understand: You are squaring value of wallnominal. Which is in milimeters. When you square it you get mm^2, which is not a value you can use as a dimension. Maybe try: wallnominal^2/something, where something=1mm. This way you would get a result in milimeters.

>>1756272
I figured it out in the end. I had to divide it by 1 mm^2.

>>1756349
>1 mm^2
interesting. good to know in case I need it

Will MK8 size nozzles fit a genuine E3D hotend?

>>1752872
>>1752825
Doesnt that seem somewhat underextruded?

>>1756046
It's this.
>>1755454
Just changed it to one print and changed the base from a square to a circle.

>>1756074
Yeah, ur right.
I was like half asleep when I was writing this. (There's even a typo: edged->edges)

>>1756075
The areas that got merged have a gap of less than 1mm.


>>1756193
It's actually clear green, but yeah, it's still pretty dark.
Once I'm done with the green, I'm gonna try using clear.

Well I was going to buy a Bulldog Lite clone, but the chinese fucked them up.

The tensioner is supposed to have two through holes (the size of the springs) where the springs go through, then two set screws to set the tension.

Instead they just tapped and put 3mm bolts in.
So there is no adjustable tension at all, and everyone says "1 spring is enough" because 2 will eat and destroy filament, not realizing the design is fucking flawed.

And of course there is a plastic version of it that actually implemented it right.
So annoying because its such a good design.

I know this sounds dumb but, do you think listing that I know how to use 3d software and 3d printers on my resume would benefit me at all? I'm applying for a prop department job at an online retailer website.

>>1756575
Absolutely fucking yes. Maybe not at the specific job you're applying to, now that I reread that, but 3D printing is huge in prop design these days since it suddenly becomes a lot easier to turn concept art into actual props. Maybe it might be beneficial here since it shows you're familiar with recent developments in prop-making, I don't know what a 'prop department job' is at an online retailer.

Do make sure you actually know how to use it and it's not just "yeah I downloaded this off thingiverse and 'made' it, pretty cool right?"

>>1756575
If you can bullshit your way into it not technically being a lie when pressed, anything semi-relevant that you can put on your resume helps.

>>1756389
E3D nozzles fit Mk8 hotends, so presumably that goes the other way around too. The length is slightly different though, so you'll need to adjust your bed or z endstop.

ive got a ender 3 with a spool of ABS

how do I keep it from cracking / peeling?


I bought the wrong spool for my first time, ive got some PLA on the way

How do i tell the printer to move for example 5 milometers to the right (+x axis) on x axis from whatever position it is now?
I tried to google some shit and tried to do
G0 X5
but it did literally nothing
G1 X5
this made it move but super slow and it moved it 5 mm from the edge of the printer, not relative to current positon

>>1756598
G0 is a rapid, your printer may not be set up for this.
G1 X5 is a regular slow move to position X=5, limited by whatever feedrate your printer usually uses. You want to do the following:

G91 ; sets the printer to relative positioning
G1 X5 F600 ;moves the printhead 5mm in X-axis, relative to current position, with a Feedrate of 600mm/min (=10mm/second)
G90 ; resets the printer to absolute positioning.

>>1756621
Beat me to it, but here's the post anyway
>>1756598
>it moved it 5 mm from the edge of the printer, not relative to current positon
send G91 first to switch to relative positioning
G90 to switch back to absolute positioning
>super slow
set the feed rate
G1 X5 F500
or
G1 F500
G1 X5

https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G000-G001.html

New Thread >>1756645

>>1754932
>can't tell if house or model

>>1756814
oh you're right those bricks started fucking with my brain

opinions on buying a cw1 with a mars for a $1000 printer + dryer or making your own for $300 (600 total)?
final printer needs to be dumbproof, but since price is a proposal (~<2000 for printer, tools/curing, 6 months of resin) any cleaning station and descent printer below that cost would be nice.

not an art student but building it for them so a foolproof software stack with lockable settings, so they cant spend two years trying to have the highest resolution would also be nice (i'm thinking of a custom start command that has to be put in so they have to use my slicer too)

>>1752684
This guy just keeps zooming in on the broken part and can’t into basic calibration

>get e3d chimera
>attach two e3d volcanoes
>put a 1.2mm nozzle on one and a 0.4mm nozzle on the other
>use the fat nozzle to print the inner structure you dont see
>use the regular nozzle to print the outer perimeter for detail
>print fast as fuck with good detail
Tell me why this is retarded.

>>1757822
Printing infill with 1.2 is fucking retarded