/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1745595
dont put the flsun in the OP, that was fun to mod but the printer itself is garbage.

>>1745593
>by linear advance I mean pressure based, there is processing done with acceleration to negate ringing in extrusions so tuning has an additional variable for high speed prints without artifacts.
So anything beyond M900 or what?
http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M900.html

>>1745601
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M572_Set_or_report_extruder_pressure_advance
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M592_Configure_nonlinear_extrusion
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Pressure_advance

klipper has better documentation on pressure advance and includes the linear model used for marlin(i think)/klipper and a separate smoothing operation (but a derivative apart).
https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper/blob/master/docs/Kinematics.md

other than slightly different models for the K values and relative extrusion math, the pressure vs linear advance processing is the same.

Hello /3dpg/ got a question.
Printing a dactyl manuform with a mates ender 3, and there seems to be some cases where there is a gap between the layers on extreme angles, like pic related. Is there a specific name for this? Are there any settings in cura to fix it? Cheers.

>>1745595
>3d printed rape

God damn, the mad man really did it

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W_k70lKAHeg
it just works

Is 220°C extruder + 65°C bed too much for pla?

>>1746038
I'm printing at 200 extruder and 60 bed. Why would you want to go that much higher?

>>1746038
Yes and no. Not only do temperature requirements vary for some PLAs, also most temperature sensor have the tendency to show the wrong temperature up to 5-10°C depending on the quality of the temperature sensor and do not even get me started when you are using the wrong B value in the firmware for the sensor.
If you are printing fine and thats the values you use, all is good, if you are using a printer that show the temperature too low and you use those values you will get problems.

>>1746051
>>1746051
when I printed this at 200°C + 60°C the little spikes on the front curved up but at 220 + 65 they didnt

>>1746062
well as long as it prints ok then you're fine. sounds like it was just a problem with the first layer not sticking to the bed.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3091510

How well would something like this improve overhangs? I'm getting some nubs on the undersides of my prints even with supports. Would this eliminate that?

>>1745803
it looks like if the Monoprice Mini and the M3D Micro had a baby, but with the Ender 3 pro's flexible bed

>>1745803
Looks cheap
On one hand, itll let someone jump into 3d printing cheaply
On the other hand, much more capable printers dont cost that much money.

I dont know how I feel about it.

>>1746092
A lot of people like the Bullseye setup which uses all stock ender 3 hardware; I think that the stock cooling fan is a little puny and weak and replaced it with a 24v 5150 blower fan and a suitable ducting setup.

>>1746119
>On one hand, itll let someone jump into 3d printing cheaply
The problem is that someone "jumping in" to the hobby won't know how to get good results out of that and to debug inevitable problems.

>>1745803
PSU is not-UL certified aka A+ will burn down your house.

>>1746207
>The problem is that someone "jumping in" to the hobby won't know how to get good results out of that and to debug inevitable problems.

Thats part of starting a new hobby though. Its not plug and play.

Could be worse, the Peachy Printer could have shipped a bunch of units.

Anyone got any advice? I recently got an Ender 3 and can't figure out why it is under extruding, if I push out a bit of filament before it starts the main print it'll extrude for a while but eventually stop, I was able to do a 10mm XYZ cube but not a 30mm benchy. I have a new all metal extruder, capicorn PTFE tubing, new fittings, etc and I've been tinkering with it but I just can't figure it out.

>>1746269
is your filament getting tangled over itself on the roll?

>>1746269
Have you made sure the extruder isnt slipping, since you just installed it?

>>1746280
How would I go about checking for that? I haven't heard any slipping and it doesn't seem like it slips
>>1746276
The filament was tangled, I'm gonna run another print

Does printing abs ruin the bed magnets on the ender 3 pro?

>>1746348
Why would that even be a consideration?

>>1746356
what do you mean? because i like the magnets and i heard the temperature breaks them

>>1746348
It doesn't on the MK3. So it really shouldn't.

>>1746359
thank god i hate reddit and retarded youtubers

>>1746358
Unless you're printing directly on the magnet, you're unlikely to reach temperatures even close to 150C on them, which is roughly where they start to lose their pull permanently

>>1746359
Also this

>>1746366
the ender 3 pro has this flexible thing on top of the bed and is held there by magnets I guess good thing the maximum bed temperature is 110°C

Printing a box for a NeoPi in a Anycubic Photon. I could print directly on the build plate, which means I don't need supports. Or I could add supports to the outside face, making them easier to sand. Or I could flip the model 180 and add supports to the inside, which are harder to remove but I won't see the scars.

Which of the 3 should I use?

>>1746439
I'd vote for the inside, scarring is difficult to get rid of sometimes and having the supports be inside would probably make the most hassle-free removal

>>1746366
I heard it was 80C that kills the magnet. I forget where I heard that from though

>>1746467
"When heated above 176° Fahrenheit (80° Celsius), magnets will quickly lose their magnetic properties. The magnet will become permanently demagnetized if exposed to these temperatures for a certain length of time or heated at a significantly higher temperature (Curie temperature)."
https://www.apexmagnets.com/news-how-tos/magnet-experiments-what-happens-when-a-magnet-is-heated/

>>1746470
That depends on the type of magnet. Not all magnets have the same Curie temperature.

>>1746470
>>1746473
The very next fucking sentences: "Heat demagnetization is also dependent on what types of materials make up a magnet. Some types of magnets such as Samarium-cobalt (SmCo) have higher heat resistance. There are also other types of Neodymium-iron-boron (NdFeB) magnets that are not as susceptible to heat induced flux degradation."

>>1746474
AlNiCo magnets have a Curie point of almost 1500 degrees.

Does Carbon fiber Petg need to be stored in a dry box like nylon?

>>1746478
yes.

>>1745652
Looks like that angle is so small it only takes a few layers to cover it. I can't see a fix to that problem, either print with less layer height or make that angle flat or a bit higher so it takes more passes and looks more uniform.

>>1746566
Thank you for your reply. I may try 0.16 for the next half, I did this at 0.2. I just had another look at it, and have noticed this section too. This sort of effect with lines on the same layer not joining together tends to occur on the print bed, with the layers not being thick enough to touch each other, but I'm wondering since this is printed on a massive support structure whether that's the case or not as there is no flat uniform surface underneath. So let me try narrow down my question again, is there any name for layer lines not being thick enough to touch each other? I'm planning on covering this with primer and spray painting it so not a dealbreaker now, but for future sake it'd be interesting to see if there's a solution for this.

>>1746574
You need thicker walls/perimeters in your slicer settings

>>1746284
Any luck?

People seem to really like the Prusa mini.

Is that going to replace the ender 3 as the go to beginner printer?

>>1746692

It's twice the price so probably not. Retards still buy the A8 as a starter because it's cheap.

>>1745595
My CR 10 I've had for year heating bed isnt working. The temperature sensor is fine. I checked the wires directly connect to the bed and nothing seems broken without disassembling the bottom to check. Pic related.

I also opened up the control box to see if any wires broke. I didn't see any thing broken or burned out I'll post pictures right now. I even open up the power supply didn't really see anything messed up.

Any suggestions? I'm sure this isn't the only person this has happened to. Do these Heating beds sometimes just die out and stopped working all together?

This happened after I was running the heating bed at a 100° in an enclosure for a day and a half during a print.

>>1746700
Pic 1/2

>>1746700
If you don't own a multimeter, get one or give up now.

>>1746702
Looks fine to me?

>>1746703
Whys that?

And i peaked in the power supply to see if anything broke. Maybe you guys can see something i havent.

>>1746705
> Whys that?
Because electricity is invisible, unless you plan to go testing it by licking wires.
> Maybe you guys can see something i havent.
Maybe you can try poking it with a stick. Or replacing all the capacitors.

Or get a fucking multimeter and see if power is going to the bed.

>>1746269
Might be getting filament drag or a pressure problem if your hotend isn't assembled correctly.

>>1746705
>looks fine
you blew the output, too much current on the bed
most of these shitty power supplies break this exact component (I blew 2 on trying nylon in winter with those dumb mosfets on the bed heaters)
a used atx supply works better (separate current for bed, smart cutoffs), I abandoned my heated bed and moved to a mini 200watt computer power supply for those tiny minatx NAS computers cuz I got a new one for free.
I have learned to hate large bed heating in unenclosed printers, its costly to avoid other than insulating the back, removing drafts in winter, using smaller mosfets (and longer heatup time) and better surfaces other than really hot beds(and turning them lower after the first 10 layers when the fan kicks in). a certified atx is prob your best bet if you want to do long 100 degree bed temps.

>>1746710
oh filename should have been this should be white.png

>>1746682
Yes and no, I printed a 20mm XYZ cube but the benchy failed. I have a new mobo coming tomorrow and a raspberry for octoprint, so if it isn't solves by then I should I have better ways to see what's wrong

>>1746710
Not him, but thanks for pointing this out so I know what to look for when mine inevitably goes out.

Pic is a bullet feeder by ammomike that I just finished. Fantastic project and saved me a few hunnit bucks.

>>1746716
I forgot to add but it feels like the extruder isn't pulling enough filament through or it is retracting too much, I already have my retraction at 2mm. There is a good inch of filament I can push through the PTFE before I feel any resistance like it hitting the nozzle or see anything come through.

>>1746717
also, in theory you could replace the thermistor, just dont short the thing or you're going to have a bad time

>>1746710
To be honest I'm really not exactly sure about what supposed to be there and was not supposed to be there. I know how to solder and fix my temperature sensors on my hotend. But idk about other more complicated stuff. Everything else works on the printer, just the heating bed.

The green stuff on the screw right next to that black thing kind of looks like the white stuff on the electromagnet.

Should I peal it off?
Whats the name of what needs to be replaced/where to order?
Any tips how to?

>>1746730
>Whats the name of what needs to be replaced
The entire power supply.

>>1746730
ok you gotta replace the ntc Thomas Sanladerer has a vid on this
but just get a 350watt plus supply or ask for warranty replacement.
a cheap ebay solution is literally a bandaid solution that doesn't solve the problem you have, this isnt repairing a power supply you got for free, your supply broke within the intended use case.

>>1746574
My DMF has some of those spots too but I didn't give a fuck. Try printing it with more perimeters (4), or raise flow to like 103%. Also calibrate your esteps.

>>1746738
Thanks for the pointers. I think going through warranty would take forever.

The little black thing looks plenty intact. Just has that dark green plastic on the side. So it almost looks like the heating unit for the bed is just busted. I'll take your advice. Thank you.

>>1746730
No be seriously what is that blackgreen stuff on the pcb?

>>1746900
greenglowium

>>1746678
>>1746740
I'll give these a shot on my next half. I don't care so much about the issues, just trying to understand how to overcome them. Printing the top of a trackball mouse (ploopy), so I've set the flow to 102 to see ilwhat difference that may make for now.

>>1746903
>>1746900
well okay.
dead thermistor / NTC?

Hi guys, complete newb here.
I just bought pic related because it was on sale and this is my first 3d printer.
I bought it mainly to make small miniature stuff.
Already have experience in 3d designing (/po/ stuff)

Is there anything I should know before I fuck up hard?
I did some research and bought a blacklight for curing after printing and also a respirator.
What are some life-limited parts that I have to buy regularly?

>>1746912
>Is there anything I should know before I fuck up hard?
Inhale deeply, or
install a suction

>>1746919
With the way my windows are made, I don't think I can make a ventilation system in the house.
Would it help if I leave it in the yard with a thick black (or dark) cover over the printer?
I know resin's deadly because I make resin casts so I usually do it in my yard.

>>1745595
Has anyone dealt with BangGood or Creality for returns?

My Ender 3 came banged up.

>>1746912
>bought a backlight for curing
Nigga just go outside

>have a project in mind
>can throw a little money and a shit ton of time at learning how to 3d print
>Or I can just buy a bunch of 2 part resin and cast it

I feel like the most efficient route is the resin, especially when I'll be spitting out a whole lot of the same sized things.

>>1746980
yeh I'm still trying to find a perfect 3d print to resin process before I sell my garage kit lirus

>>1746949
Banggood will tell you to go fuck yourself unless you filmed the opening of the package. Dunno about Creality.

>>1746912

- Get a 100-pack of nitrile gloves
- Think really well about ventilation, see if you can rig up some sort of fume extraction with a hose
- Get many liters of IPA

Gonna do a repost from the old thread:

>>1746951
>So my harddrive failed, had to get a new one and do a fresh install.
>I recall being able to download Inventor software not too long ago by creating a fake student account without the need for institution verification.
>Is that no longer a thing anymore? Pic related.

>>1747018
>wtf I just needed to put in an email, I still get them as an alum
I created a fake email. It prompted me to set up my education institution (to which I just said some local one), and verified my email. Then when I attempted to download Inventor, it asked me for proof of enrolment.

Dunno if I dun goofed something up here. I remember doing almost the same thing a year or two ago; created a fake email account, said I was attending some random university, and it let me download the software with no issue.

>>1747044
OK, I tried making another fake account larping as a poo, which funny enough made it work.
I think the issue was that I originally stated my enrolment was for longer than 4 years, or that I was using a local university.

>>1747044
Cgpeers dude

Can some one please convert the fusion 360 source file for this fan duct into something universal like STEP for me please?

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3092044/files

>>1747100
> 11 individual parts
I smell someone with a career in subtractive manufacturing.

>>1747100
Why'd you wanna make a garbage design like that?

>>1747145
>>1747150

Forget it, I'm just going to make it in blender. It'll look like shit but idgaf as long as it works.

>>1747163
Just a little heads up: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SX-okOHvh1Q&t=1168s

If you are in a hurry, start watching at about 18:30

How much time would it take for a 20x20x20mm solid cube, printed in PLA, to degrade completely when it's completely in wet soil?

>>1747192
That is incredible! Great video link. Any recommendation for a filament cooling fan nozzle I should print for my cr10?

>>1746955
>Implying I'm going to see sunlight for the next 3 months.

>>1747209
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lx0aUk2AiNQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aq_Wq--Oej0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_Gh-3PQhiE

>>1747192
Thanks anon, so I just need some vanes.

But then you have to consider what gives the best print quality? A highly focused spot at the nozzle or general cooling over a wide area, or a mix of both?

Hello m8s looking to get into this hobby
Is it worth getting the ender 3 pro with the magnetic plate or should i cheap out?

>>1747100
>/difm/ - do it fo me

>>1747278
Not really. A magnetic plate is nice, but for the same cash you can get a better one than the Ender version. Buy the standard Ender and a magnetic steel plate with PEI instead. It'll last longer than the Ender 3 magnetic plate, and it's easy to install. https://www.3dprima.com/accessories/print-surface/pei-ultem/primacreator-flexplate-pei-235-x-235-mm/a-24100/

>>1747192
Too many "air quotes"

>>1747278
The Ender 3 Pro's main selling point is a PSU that won't burn your house down. The magnetic plate is just a bonus feature.

>>1747336
Nice that's considered an optional upgrade that costs extra. Boeing-like.

>>1747354
Chinks learned from the best.

>>1747278
I got the pro for $200 at micro center (that's the only version they had) and the magnetic bed is a necessity in my opinion. after fighting with my last printer (an M3D Micro) trying to scrape my prints off the bed, I'm so glad I got the magnetic one

>>1747278
Get the one with the glass bed, the XS

>>1747021
Creality forces you to go through your retailer.

>>1747021
This is why I don't buy from Chinese sites

>>1746912
>What are some life-limited parts that I have to buy regularly?
Get a sheet of FEP film off McMaster or somewhere else (I forget the thickness), but not the precut sheets since those are much more expensive than generic rolls. You will end up scratching/denting/fogging your film eventually.

>>1746955
>Goes to work at 5am
>Comes back from work at 7pm
>Only sunlight I get is from a small window behind a door at my company.
I wish I had a life where I can see real sunlight.....

>>1747033
Thanks. I'll buy the IPA.
Is there a huge difference between using IPA and not though?

>>1747426
How long do those things last?
It looks like the printer I bought comes with 2 sheets.

>>1747438
Depends on how careful you are with them and how many failed prints you have. My first sheet lasted a good 15-20 prints at least, and might have lasted more if I kept using the same resin; the grey I use looks like it makes it cloudy faster, since my second sheet's looking not so great after only 5-7 prints with the same resin. Might be a bad batch, though.

>>1747436
https://forum.formlabs.com/t/alternate-wash-solution/25471

You can apparently also use TPM now instead of IPA

Does anyone know of a foundry that will cast aluminum using 3d prints/files affordably?

3d printed aluminum is ridiculously expensive and doesn't look good. CNC for these parts would also be expensive. I can't risk burning down my house trying to set up my own crucible.

>>1747513
My local foundry made me an inlet manifold adapted after I printed it, turned out very well. Could be done in aluminium, I chose brass because it looks sweet on a red motorcycle.
You need to find someone local though, otherwise shipping will kill the price benefit. You don't want to go to an industrial foundry though, they don't even bother with small projects like this. Your best bet is a local artist who works with bronze, since they can probably cast aluminium too. In case it's a really small project ask a jeweler/goldsmith, but they usually charge out the ass too.

>>1747436
>Is there a huge difference between using IPA and not though?

The prints come out covered in a layer of gooey uncured resin, if you don't wash it off it's just going to cure ontop... Resin is not water-soluble, so IPA is used.

>>1747491

Good to know, though i've never seen a place that sells this TPM stuff... I've read that ethanol works too, but that it's a bit less effective than IPA.

Good to see 3DPG is completely dead.

I'm still using cura 3.6 after updating to 4.0, seeing what an abomination it was, having it 'corrupt' my printer profile and then having it be magically fixed again after downgrading back to 3.6. Is there any reason at all to upgrade to 4.4.1? Are there any magic new settings available that I absolutely need?

>>1747530
no, you gotta rice it with a whole bunch of addons to make it look acceptable, feature-wise I haven't used anything new since 3.6 or some beta variant at that time. the login doesnt even share profiles, let alone printer configs. if you want to move them and when you installed it deleted the old configs(or want to set up a 2nd pc with your profiles, which again should sync if ultimaker had a brain when they made a login page to steal user data), you might find an older config from a prior cura version in the appdata roaming folder, all the extra crap left in program files are just default configs and should be deleted. no need to upgrade, no special addons are on the new version either.

>>1747535
>they made a login page
Fuck that noise. Thanks I'll stick to 3.6 and windows 7.

I keep getting support failure here. The gap is simply too big for the shit PLA that I'm using. Solutions?

>>1747597
increase the gcode resolution and decrease the support gap distance, if you have an 8bit board you should move the resolution back to normal after tho.

>>1747491
TPM is harder to find then IPA. What's the advantage?

thoughts on openSCAD?

>>1747740
Free as in freedom
I started modeling with blender, but openSCAD is all I use now
Parametric 3d design is great for prototyping. Just adjust a number to change things.
I generally even pull numbers out of my ass to design stuff, then go back and tweak the numbers
You can write modules for common stuff you use and include them or copy/paste.
If you like to do stuff by the numbers and are interested in programming, I'd highly recommend it. Ought to be in the OP

Don't think it'd be too good for artistic type stuff where Blenders subsurface modifier really shines

>>1747740
entirely parametric. Completely different way of doing things and building things.
Fast.
Rock solid.

>>1746930

Activated carbon filter is the way to go.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3696020

This won't kill all the fumes but for me it reduced it to non-migraine, won't kill your cat levels - but I'd still keep a window open.

There is also a small square version on thingiverse somewhere that just drops over the fan if you don't want to pull your photon apart.

As for the Carbon, you can find it at any old Aquarium store.

>>1746912

You might want to invest in some glass wipes for the screen as it starts to build up layers after a while, resin filters are a must, also if you can find someone with a FDM printer see if you can get them to print out some resin vat covers and vat drainage stands.

>>1747764
>>1747780
i'm a /g/ fag so sounds perfect for me, thanks

>>1747707
The support gap was already at the limit of layer height of 0.2mm. Never heard of g-code resolution. I ended up dividing the model for better printing. This roll of PLA has been nothing but trouble; I just came back from a failed print from a clogged extruder that pushed the bowden out of the coupling and pushed filament out into air without printing.

does anyone have any experience with the Monoprice Maker Ultimate 2?
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=36045
any thoughts for first printer? any major concerns?

>>1747819
it doesent matter for gcode resolution, the resolution most slicers give out is already smaller than most printers could ever do with the smallest nozzle, it just changes noise patterns and increases file size due to more, shorter distance commands for each gcode move. Has bad effects on dumber printers tho.

I finished assembling my Ender 5 last night and will get to leveling and testing later tonight. One thing I want to do is use a test indicator for bed leveling rather than going by feel. I've found a bunch of holders for plunger type dial indicators, but none for test indicators. Anyone seen such a thing? Worst case I'll design my own.

>>1747870
just use a piece of paper, if you really want to go all out for leveling buy a BLtouch sensor

>>1747873
the bl touch is a bad idea other than quick mesh compensation.
true levelling should only be done via paper (or if you have multiple z steppers, a contact or inductive probe for automatic true level)

>>1746912
tape down the edges of the screen with packing tape. the glue they use to hold it down is shit.

>>1747875
it's ok I guess

>>1747888
it's not that you can't
I also forgot that "automated leveling" also includes that multi point tramming feature instead of mesh, a bl touch would be fine for that too. I'm just saying that its on par with the IR sensor for quick automated printing, but for actual leveling (dialing in your printer or glass bed) you should not use a bl touch, use it for compensating the curvature of the bed (ie a cr10 aluminum or removable bed that'll curve when it warms up).

>>1747896
oh, yeah

Any ideas on how to fix this? this happens constantly and I have not been able to get a good print in

>>1747910
you decrease the z offset:
(marlin instructions)
home printer; either with a probe or just a switch
>if you homed with a probe, move nozzle to the same place the sensor was for accuracy (also home x and y in order to do this)
>if you homed with a switch, it is very important that the bed is alredy level or you might break glass when you print
move your z axis in a negative direction until you cant slide paper under the nozzle, go to 0.1mm steps and go up until you can just begun to slide the paper again.
Check the current offset your printer is in z, write it down.
go to control -> motion settings and select z offset.
if its 0, just add the offset there, if there is an offset value, jsut add that with the value you recorded.

If your device supports babystepping; you can also adjust the offset while you are printing, then you can add that to the offset in the firmware(some filaments like more squish). also if it resets, make sure you have that number saved somewhere (some/all slicers let you put that into your starting gcode). you can also do this with a tethered printer, there are easy videos for rephost and octopi.

>>1747928
I have the bed level with the printer across the whole bed though, I manually leveled it using the paper trick, or am I confusing z offset with leveling?

>>1747936
two separate things
leveling is makeing things flat, offset is the difference between the sensed point and the actual bed of the printer.
you need to be level first before you change your offsets

Strumstick v2 tuned in D A D dulcimer tuning. Easy to play.

Got this dude off the phrozen shuffle, bretty happy with it. No idea how resin tolerances work cause the surface details all got captured really well but the plug and socket bits I modeled were totally off. Will probably have to up the holes by like 50% next time I model this sort of thing

>>1747910
>>1747928
Am i missing something? That's what mine looks like when the build plate gets dusty/dirty/greasy and needs cleaning.

>>1747955
too high

>>1747910
PETG?

>>1747870
Dunno what an ender 5 looks like. but here's mine if it helps

Never owned a printer but used an FDM one before and thought it was shit. why bother with FDM when there's SLA?
they're less mechanically complicated, so there's less to go wrong and less to fix.

>>1748154

- Large build volume
- Cheap and available components
- The mechanical properties of engineering plastics
- No need for post-processing when the print is finished meaning no need to buy solvents and personal protective gear
- Low cost and high availability of the material
- Ability for the printer to make its own parts and upgrades
- Ability to use composite materials like carbon fiber and metal-infused filament
- Ability to pause the print midway and embed components in the part

And don't forget that until affordable MSLA printers came about, SLA meant printers with complex custom laser and galvanometer assemblies, or projector-based rigs that cost at least 1000$ and a bottle of resin about another 120$

>>1748033
It's virtually impossible to have bad adhesion with PETG.

Any ideas how to fix this? The orange stuff is infill, when I print this everything is fine except the "floor" of this tier of ring doesn't reach all the way to the edge, leaving a small gap where the infill shows through.

Okay faggots, welcome me to the club. Printing bolt & nut, so far so good.

>>1747945
https://vocaroo.com/hkGvtaLRSy6

>>1748375
>paying that much for a chinkshit printer

>>1748386
You don't even know how much I paid

>>1745595
I have a ender 3 pro. Want a bigger printer, any other options than cr10 that is reasonable?

>>1748406
Cr10 mini is an option.

>>1748408
I've looked into it, but I would like something bigger. Bigger than cr10 at the same price would be ideal really.

Also, is octopi a meme?

>>1747955
>>1747928
>>1747942
I did another test print, but the cube came out incredibly compressed. Could it be that I am running it from Octoprint? I watched the GCode viewer and it seemed perfectly fine and like it was changing layers like it should.

>>1748386
>not having a flying bear that's also a ghost

>>1747910
Clean with rubbing alcohol and try again. I ended up buying a probe for my ender 3, leveling constantly gets old fast.
>>1748414
Maybe your z screw is slipping or maybe the slicer has the wrong distance per turn of the Z stepper. Try another slicer to see if the problem persists. I've just used cura so idk.

>>1748441
I'm using the default cura settings, what's your distance per stepper?

>>1748241
Doesn't stick at all to my replacement bed surface.

OK, so I finally got the printer.
Got a extra bottle of resin, a bunch of IPA, 30W UV lamp, and a respirator.
Just got the bed leveled and tried testing it without any resin.
Looks like it's working so far.

Now about the air filtering.
I was going to use it out in my yard, but just yesterday, I found out there's a bunch of raccoons have moved in nearby (about 4~6 of them) and they're coming out even in broad daylight so I don't think I'll be able to put the printer in the yard for a while. (At least until they move out or I "remove" them)
So I tried to think of some alternatives.

1. Replace the filter inside the inner filter housing with carbon filter sheets
2. Replace the whole inner filter assembly with a rolled up filter sheet
3. Attach filter sheets around the inner filter assembly
4. Attach filter sheets to the vent holes on the outside of the printer

Would any of these work?
I live in a small room so if I use it inside, I'll be pretty close to it. (About 6 feet radius)

>>1748648
keep a line on the costs and the smell, I have a place by the grill and enough scrap wood to make a cabinet, but waterproofing and sunproofing would make this quite a project, so I might just seal a desk cabinet by a window and use an air conditioner insert with a flap.

the photon s has a carbon/hepa filter I thought, but I think the smell of the solvents can only be solved with activated carbon.
personally, If a window is not an option, get a charcoal filter setup out the end or mod a cheap hand vac filter (I think this would be ideal for normal printers tho) to the included duct.
I plan on getting a SLA printer that at least has the duct for this.

if this is your first printer a uni or library will have cheap/free options for the first few grams of filament. ask a professor there if you're not a student and you might get free filament for life there (when its open). I did a favor for one back in 2017 that got them in the local news for program funding, although they stole my credit as a student there I was able to design and prototype my reprap with like 3 kilos of their makerbot plastic.

>>1745803
TL;DR: do you think this is good enough for boxes?

I want to build a relay clock.
I will need custom boxes to hold things.
Think chips, but instead of millions of tiny transistors you've got a few or several tens of big ass relays inside.
My first module is going to be a 7-segment-display box.
The front-facing rectangle will have 7 holes for E10 lamp holders, and then 14 holes for screws holding them.
The back-facing rectangle will have 7 holes for + input, and 1 for ground, and maybe 1 for ON/OFF switch.

I want to construct these boxes by using friction instead of screws. I would make a groove around the perimeter of the receiving rectangle, N millimeters wide, and an extrusion N militers wide on the giving rectangle. I believe it would barely fit, but there should be enough friction to hold them together. This is pure speculation, I've never 3D printed before and I believe this method would require a fair amount of accuracy which I'm worried this printer might not be able to provide.

I found this OpenSCAD program, I love it, it fits the job perfectly I think.

Suppose I have some stuff I want to print and it's pretty complex. Since I don't want to have to print metric tons of supports I want to print it in easy to print parts and then glue them together. The glue should bind PLA to PLA and PLA to some other plastics. If it glues other stuff as well, that's a bonus.

Anything I need to look for in glue? What do I need? The parts would be under some slight level of mechanical stress.

I'm a europoor, so I'd appreciate general stuff to look for rather than US centric company names. Thanks guys.

>>1748884
super glue should work, that's what i use if i need to glue parts together

>>1748885
I'll test it out, thanks.

>>1748876
>good enough for boxes
Maybe, most likely. Not too sure the friction attempt is gonna work, might have to use holes in the 3d print. You can make those slightly smaller than your screws and thread the PLA plastic. IF you get this one, absolutely get a cooling fan for it as well.

Honestly, if you think you might want to 3d print later again for other projects, just get a ender 3. Even the video you answered said "people will outgrow this in weeks, maybe days". If this is the only project/ you want to look at the "minimum viable printer", then this might work. I just doubt it's worth the troubleshooting you will have to do etc. The ender3 is already pretty cheap and it's a decent workhorse.

TL;DR - if you only want to 3d print for this one project, this might work. If not save yourself the trouble and get a ender3.

Good afternoon
Is there a way to make cura ignore holes while ironing the top layer? I'm working on axially symmetrical parts with a hole right through the middle, but because of the geometry, using concentric ironing can cause some parts to not get nice and flat. Zigzag is giving me much better quality overall, but instead of just jumping across the hole and keeping a consistent path, it does one side of the hole, goes all the way to the end of the surface after the hole, then crosses the ironed section (leaving a nice big line across it) and then finally doing the section on the other side of the hole.

>>1747597
I find it's oftentimes easier to draw the supports in the CAD software instead.

>>1747949
Cute!

My wife's jealous of the 3d printer I bought. Not as in "I want one too" jealous but as in "who is going to fuck me now". Really digging it and playing with the toy is more interesting than the woman. I know it will get old, but in meantime wat do?

>>1749024
print a dildo to fuck her in the meantime

>>1748375
My first useful print. I am impressed, you scared me that first prints usually came out shit. But you might say that's just a fucking box what could go wrong?

U do see some ghosting on the holes, and they aren't particularly round, but I don't care really.

>>1746092
As an anon who bought into all the custom cooling - no. What you get with the stock cooler and stock duct is about as good as that tiny fan is going to offer. Continue toying with print settings. You can get great results without custom parts and you can get shitty results with custom parts.

>>1749039
blacked PLA

>>1749024
automate the printer

>>1748441
I tried another test print, this time it wasn't as squashed but still had horrible details.

>>1746092
You using Cura? Turn on "Support Interfaces".With it on you can lower support density to 10 or even 5%, what it does is print a normal support except the last mm which is a very tight cross pattern. It works perfectly with PLA and PETG, I often don't even need to use a knife to get supports off, I can just press hard on them. The surface over them is visibly and tacitly rough, but it's better than normal supports by far.

>>1749024
Set up a 7 hour print job. Fuck her for 7 hours. Give her a respite while you remove supports and prep the next job.
Repeat.

>>1749090
can you send a picture of your z steps and your z leadscrew please?
I dont want to do technical support in this thread, but tighten the z axis coupler and if it doesn't work send a link to /wsr/ with a picture of the zsteps and what the z leadscrew looks like
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hNPbspTTnHM

Fixed my X axis backlash and now it seems like the only issue I have is some light stringing on my new Ender 3 pro. Should I just fiddle with retraction distance and speed in Cura with one of those string test STL files until I find a sweet spot that works?

>>1748884
Anything you use to chemically bond (not just glue together, BOND) acrylic should work, as long as it's the stuff that actually melts the acrylic for a seamless... seam.

>>1749121
yeh, cura has a small feature setting to that slows it down for more detail, make sure that setting is disabled in order to make sure both modes wont string.

>>1749107
>I dont want to do technical support in this thread
Why not anon? /diy/ IS tech support
Watching anons problems and the solutions is one of the things that got me interested in printing.
Nice to have some insight into problems before I ever had them

>>1749189
its something to do with the z axis not going the correct distance, but IDK his slicing settings, zsteps or mods his creality has gone through. if others think going back and forth for the thread is fine then I guess it is, but anons(not we or I) looking at the problem and trying to find out what went wrong. I'd rather see the power supply guy not burn his house down than 15 ways your z axis might not be working.

New to 3D printing.
My Ender came with a glass bed; can I just attach it directly to the metal below, or do I need the regular bed between them? The larger clips that came with it still don't fit the thing if both beds are on it, but will fit if it's just the glass bed on the metal.

does your model HAVE TO be one single mesh? i ripped a game model and even just fixing non manifold is a pain. i plan to print this in separated parts, but the hair for example is just a bunch of individual meshes joined together. will this be printable?

>>1749247
It doesn't matter as slicer will conver everything

>>1749251
>>1749251
so the only issue i need to care about is non manifold?

Newfag did first print and........what am I doing wrong here?
Do I have to add more support?

>>1749258
Here's a picture of the settings and what I tried to print.
Doesn't have the supports because the PWS file can't open the 3d model

>>1749253
you can have non manifold in cura and the bugger will still print, just make sure it doesn't think the model is multi material and because then it removes overlap. There are quite a few different ways you can print a shitty model; like seriously, you can print single plane wings as walls these days(it wont look good and support wont work, but it prints).

>>1749259
use chitubox or whatever where you can customize the supports, It looks like this layer was too thick and it broke off the supports.
try hollowing it too? I would print it vertically, but I know that makes it take longer.

>>1749237
As long as ''the metal'' means the heating elements, yes, you can mount it directly to the metal. A small aluminium panel between the glass and heater core will provide better heat distribution though, so you might want to keep the original bed for distribution and buy some larger clips.

>>1748893
>ender3
Thank you for the advice, I'm getting this instead!
Found it for 161 euro on AliExpress in Czech Republic, ordered right away.
I'm gonna make the models while it arrives.
We have a mechanical engineer in the corporation I work at, I'll try to befriend him and get some advice from him, although he's much older (30+) than the rest of us (<25 mostly) and quieter.

Is my mother's BDay and I wanted to print something from the artist Gustav Klimt in 3D, but I can't find anything beside the tree of life, any of you ever made a model or something like that?

Recommended filament brand?

>>1749300
ideal price range?

>>1749024
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vdwLgjtGiUg

>>1749301
Most of the Amazon results seem to range from $18-$25/kg, which is fine. I'm just not sure which of the 15 different brands to pick. Hatchbox has the most reviews, but a lot of the recent ones seem to be saying that the quality has dropped and that they're having various problems with it.

>>1749305
I use hatchbox pro, but I bet this is true, havent bought any other than pro from them in the last year.
at that range most filaments like sunlu has good silk pla, I think cc3d is where I got a big pack of decent pla for cheap judging by the spool style. anything cheaper and you'll get some absolute trash filament tho.

>>1749306
>hatchbox pro
I can't even find any information on this; did they stop selling it?
I think I'll go with Sunlu. Thanks, anon.

>>1749306
What about Solutech?

>>1749089
PLAd

>>1749259

Get the latest Chitubox. The regular PhotonSlicer is an old version of it and likely won't generate optimal supports. You can also open the .photon file in it and get a voxel preview of it. Check the interface area between the print and the supports - if the ends are too pointy it will fail on larger area layers. The pulling force required to peel the print off the FEP sheet is greater for such layers so the supports can break off.

>>1749300
Ordering online is a crapshoot, go buy it in person if you can and pay the $2 extra or whatever it costs. Find the physically smoothest filament there is and buy that, brands don't matter. I got lucky on my first roll of filament, it was jet black and had a surface texture almost like silk, it printed flawlessly on my bowden tube ender 3. Everything else since then has been rough shit that doesn't measure up.

Has anyone used https://www.reliefmod.com/ to 3d print a painting before?

I am testing it with Klimt's "the kiss", haven't printed anything yet, wondering if I should smooth out the sides, I fear it maybe otherwise a worthless waste of printing time.

Otherwise apparently OpenSCAD can do it too.

>>1749300
>>1749305
Hatchbox is great; both their PLA and ABS has served me well the past many years. I think the quality drop reviews are shills or something, I've been continuously ordering about 1-3kg a month for the past 2 years and have yet to run into a single issue.

>>1749370
>go buy it in person if you can
>brands don't matter
???
Surely you can't be serious? The only places that stock filament physically these days that aren't specialty shops are places like Fry's Electronics, who has god-knows-what mixed into shit they just need to offload.
>physically smoothest filament
This has almost no bearing on whether it will print well. You can have a perfectly smooth filament with a shit ton of voids and inclusions beneath the surface.

>>1749314
never tried it

>>1749310
preformace pla, it was the best sanding plastic I've had and now I only have a kilo left
It was some kind of pla-asa hybrid (didnt smell weird) that had a rough texture due to the different melting points and how (not)homogeneous the mixture was. it sometimes clogged but it stuck so well and worked great for nanachi.
looks like their "stone" pla is the rebrand, the text is copied from the old ppla brand, prob gonna look for that on sale (its a good deal at 20$ to try, you may not like the finish)

>>1749439
IDK what he's going on about, my fav filament is matte

So stupidly i forgot to take pictures of how my cr-10s control box was wired, i'm converting it to an all in one. Could someone pop their control box open and take some pics? I have a first gen board.

Thanks.

>>1749439

>>1749370
okay if you want an in store brand name inland PLA+(pro) at microcenter is 17$ a kilo for a masterspool roll; the filament is awful but at least its technically cheaper(~2$ for the same product) than the same product on amazon and has less of a chance of being a mislabeled roll of ABS or normal trash PLA that their amazon reviews show. smells weird too.

>>1745595
>Solidworks, Inventor, AutoCAD etc. all work, but Blender and Fusion 360 are free

I'm getting a little tired of telling you.
ALL Autodesk products can be downloaded for free. All you need is register in their education program. Officially you need to be in college/university but they don't check what you put into that field.

https://www.autodesk.com/education/home

>>1749606
not netfabb ultimate
those lua scripts are no joke

>>1749276
>>1749325
I just tried chitubox and it looks like it doesn't support .pws files.

Here's a pic of what i'll try next.
For the setting, I reduced the speed of lift to 1mm/s. Everything else in untouched.
Made a steeper angle on the model and added thicker supports.
Print time is approximately 7 hours now.....(Was 3 hours before)

>>1749596
Where do you guys live that amazon delivers to but there are no physical retailers for 3d printing shit?

I'm in canada which is notorious for having limited options for stores that sell niche shit and we have dedicated 3d printing stores. There are also people on our craigslist equivalent who import and sell rolls of PLA for cheap.

>>1749606
>I'm getting a little tired of telling you.
Ditto
It's NOT really free when you're the product
It's "free" as in Google is "free"
How fucking stupid do you have to be to be to let a corporation track your thoughts and ideas in real time and store your work in the (((cloud))) when there are "free as in freedom" alternatives?

>>1749624
there's like two and they're 2.5 stars

>>1749627
>implying this doesn't work on an offline machine with no network connection whatsoever
>implying that "free as in freedom" is a thing
What you said about you being the product is true for all things free.
Look, we could get in a lengthy discussion on what freedom means and what a shitty world we're living in, but I personally get along with inventor just fine and so will you after some time getting used to it. Just put it in the OP, all I'm asking.

Im converting my cr10s into an all in one unit s no more control box the only issue im having right now is connecting the wire from the on/off switch to the power supply becuase its too short.

Would it be smart to just have the on/off switch hanging off the printer until i can print a different holder for it or would that be stupid?

>>1749673
>switch hanging off the printer
It would be practical

>>1749624
Where do people live that they can't find and order anything online?

Can you print on top of another print with ender 3? I want to make a box from three rectangles. The front and the back facing ones would have grooves, and the middle ones would have extrusions from both sides that go into the grooves, and the friction holds the box together. I think the printer can easily print extrusions on a rectangle, but not the other way - a rectangle on extrusions. So could I just flip it over (rectangle + extrusions on one side) and then continue print the rest of extrusions?

>>1749712
Of course you can. Just skip the Z homing (there's a special gcode for XY-only homing) and adjust the Z yourself before the print begins. If you have a bed probe like a bltouch or something it's even easier, all you have to do then is attach the box you're printing on and start the print normally, triggering the probe manually if it tries to go outside the box (you could use something like a postcard to make a hard enough but flat and perpendicular surface to the box, you place it atop the box, slide it around as need be, and gently hold it in place against the box.

Could you post a picture of your idea? It sounds like you're trying a very complicated solution for a print that might actually be pretty easy. People print stuff for aluminium T-slot extrusions and the like all the time, supports are pretty versatile nowadays, even Cura has tree supports.

>>1749627
desu just pirate solidworks 2017. it's probably the best software on the market, it doesn't have any of that cloud bullshit, and the company doesn't give a fuck about some fat autist who just wants to make a case for his raspberry pi gameboy emulator. they're not going to come after any pirate with less than a dozen employees, their time is too valuable for that.

>>1749716
I've never 3D printed before and my first printer is arriving in a week.
I want to print my own seven segment display for my relay clock.
Here's the shitty middle section code I will refactor and improve: https://termbin.com/xqw1
Here's the STL file: https://easyupload.io/yzk35h
I have not finished a lot of things, but this will probably get you an idea of what I'm trying to do.

This one is for my wife who mainly works from a laptop connected to an external monitor. Recently work threw out a fairly decent PC (i7-3770k CPU, 32GB RAM, GTX 760 GPU) so I decided to refurbish it as her main computer

The problem she soon encountered is that it was a pain having to unplug the monitor/keyboard/mouse from her laptop and plug them into the desktop, so I designed a wee box to house USB & HDMI extension cables

>>1749736
Yeah, that should be super easy to print. As-is an Ender could handle it fine, just download "Ultimaker Cura" and turn on supports before you slice it. If you want to make the print easy, you could just split it in the middle of that platform in the middle, and print each halve with the middle platform facing down, then you don't need any supports at all. I assume you'll be screwing bolts or something through the holes, which should be more than enough to attach the two halves together, but you could also just get a tube of superglue at the dollarstore and use that instead.

>>1749741
a vr box would have worked, but I just feed an hdmi cable to the front of the case

>>1749741
Looks pretty sleek, anon. I'd have used countersunk bolts but that's only because I have them laying around, I know counterbored ones are pretty common. Are those 90deg ESB extensions I see? Any chance of a link to or image of them?

>>1749756
VR box?

>>1749799
Ah righto, I dunno I kinda like how they stick out a bit. Also yup, here are all the RA connectors I got:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32671966004.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33035877540.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32888529590.html

Anyone here have a fav set of needle files ?

>>1749814
the ps4 and vive have one included, designed so if you have a laptop or a desktop without a display front IO you can use these things to connect to. had the same output setup. if you need one that works over usbc instead of just being a cable router I can recommend one.

Some dedicated ones for displays have a monitor switch(not for vr, but same concept), but I didnt need those things.

>>1749836
oof image broke

>>1749741
Don't you actually want a KVM?

Did someone say under-extrusion?

I reassembled my control box and reattached all the wires from the various components to the power supply and the motherboard. The mosfet and the power supply turns on, but the motherboard acts like its not receiving any power even though the wires are plugged in correctly. Anyone know what the cause could be?

>>1749859
Forgot to mention i have a cr-10s with an original motherboard

>>1749860
Reseat the connector to the motherboard (PSU off when you do this).
Get a multimeter and read power on the board.

>>1749606
OP of the copypasta here: a family member of mine got sued for using Inventor or AutoCAD (can't remember which) in a small company without a proper license, so he's stuck with licensing fees. As far as I know Fusion360 free for makers (<100K USD revenue yearly) so even if you grow out of just being a hobbyist and start making some money, they don't immediately send a bill that can really, really hurt your wallet. What you're saying is that the entire Autodesk suite is available for educational use, but not everybody ITT falls under that definition, so it's not free for all of us.

I'm willing to update the copypasta (we're running into thread limit today it seems), I'll add the following line:
>What CAD software should I use?
Solidworks, Inventor, AutoCAD etc. all work, but Blender and Fusion 360 are free for most users. Variants of Inventor, AutoCAD, and Solidworks may be free depending on your profession.
https://www.blender.org/
https://www.autodesk.com/
https://www.solidworks.com/

>>1749627
If you want to get shit done none of the ''freedom'' alternatives compared to the professional programs.

>>1749720
>it's probably the best software on the market
Debatable, but true in my opinion, and I hold several of their certifications as a professional user. That said, once I leave this job my license will be gone, meaning I need a cheap alternative for home use that could be expanded into professional use without high cost. Fusion360 does 95% of what I can do with Solidworks, with a lot nicer shortcuts and an integrated CAM module (which I don't use, but might eventually), and with a lot less errors. It;s just the specialised parts like Sheet Metal that Solidworks excells in.

>>1749885
That being said, are there other parts of the copypasta that need updating?

>>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 7-9-2019]
I feel like we could recommend the Ender 3 Pro to anyone who can afford it in the 200 USD price bracket.
Personal experience with several new production Chirons has shown that they provide good value, warranting a recommendation besides the CR-10 in the 1000 USD bracket. Haven't seen enough Prusa Minis outside of three units running at Formnext to judge them - yet.
Not much has changed in the 500+ brackets in my opinion, unless someone else begs to differ.
What would /3dpg/ consider the best SLA recommendation? I'm really out of my comfort zone there, and the OP really needs a good, solid recommendation. Similarly, some information in the OP for SLA printing would be nice.

>>1749887
Having done exactly 15 minutes of internet research, would I be wrong to recommend the Anycubic Photon, Prusa SL1 and Formlabs Form series as good SLA printers in different price brackets?

Chirons are $499, but during black friday Anycubic had them under $360, Amazon had them for around $380.

I've had some quality issues with mine purchased this last Black Friday, and I did have to contact their support, which took a while due to china TZ, but they did send me a replacement board to fix my issue.

The only other issue i hear about often in the Chiron support groups on FB is wiring of the bed being pretty crap and prone to either breaking or catching fire... go figure.

Still, the build plate size is nothing to scoff at at that price range and its given me some good prints, though my noob experience in this may be misleading.

>>1749892
Those all sound good. I haven't worked with the SL1, but my photon's been doing well and the price keeps getting pushed down, and the Form 3 is simply a fantastic machine so far, works beautifully.

>>1749838
Hmm, kinda limiting but cool

>>1749845
Yea that would be the next step, this was just an in-between solution

Has anyone here tried to update to Cura 4.4.1? Did it fuck up your profiles? Normally updates that only touch the last digit don't, but all that shit about "Engineering Profiles" on the feature page makes me wary.

>>1749921
Yes, did not fuck it up.

>>1749885
>maybe add that new Prusa mini to the pasta?

>>1749928
>>1749887
>Haven't seen enough Prusa Minis outside of three units running at Formnext to judge them - yet.

Got an ender 3 for christmas, been having fun with it and getting it all set up, however, one day it just started under extruding. When I tell it to extrude 100mm it only extrudes 40mm, if I were to change my E-steps I'd have to put in a crazy value like 228.61. I changed my extruder assembly and tensioned the spring, but it's still acting retarded. What do I do? There's no useful information online?

>>1749939
>There's no useful information online?
There is
Also, should have bought a Prusa

>>1749939
if you use cura, check if you filament size is set at 1.75mm

>>1749942
Ok Josef

First project I've done, made a custom license plate frame for my dad by 3d printing some caps with text and pics and putting them over a dealership license plate frame. Ironically done using the 3d printer I gifted him a couple Christmases back (Monoprice Select Mini V2)

>>1749945
ok chang

>Also, should have bought a Prusa
>aka reddit: the 3d printer

The actual print quality wasn't great, but given that it'll only be looked at from far away, I'm happy with how it turned out

>>1749948
>>1749953

I sure hope you printed that in something other than PLA.

>>1749954
What's wrong with printing it in PLA? Water resistance? UV? It's painted/ clear coated so hopefully those won't be too bad

>>1749943
yeah, it is

>>1749942
I tried all the fixes I could find and none are working

>>1749958
PLA softens in hot water, I guess it's not as bad as leaving PLA inside a car.

Behold the mighty foghorn!

>>1749967
Good to know in the future, but I don't really foresee that being a problem in this case.

>>1745652
bondo and sanding

>>1749627
The clown is just a computer someone else owns.

>>1749624
WTF in canada do you live that you have dedicated 3d printing stores?

>>1749915
2 port HDMI KVM is 50 bux. This seems more bother then it's worth.

>>1750112
Toronto

>>1750107
>The clown is just a computer someone else owns.
The clown is OP, usually.

While in the general sense it's true that when the product is free, you are the product, when it comes to CAD software there is a recognition that big corporate is the only revenue stream worth pursuing. Not only does your pirate copy NOT represent a loss of a sale, it ads one more wage cuck to the world with "Product X" listed under the skills section of their CV. CAD is a business that thrived suckling from the biggest of corporate teats. You and I aren't even ants.
Meanwhile, for such a mature technology, the open source options sure suck. it's a truism that open source software wasn't created for you, it was created for the people who wrote it, but they give it to you for free because it costs nothing to do so. That's why Blender is good for nothing but weeb resin models.
Add to that the learning curve of these things is such that you might as well stick with what you know. So thieve away to your hearts content.

>>1750135
That's also why they give schools/students free licenses.
Honestly, they should be teaching parametric modeling in high school, if only to develop 3D visualization skills in students.

>>1745595
Nerf or nothin
https://archive.org/details/gunplans2019

My cr-10s doesn't turn on, it just clicks, then nothing, I checked the plugs and it seems like everything is plugged in correctly so I'm not sure what the problem could be. Any ideas?

>>1750144
The one on the left gives me a real Welrod vibe. I like.
It'd be really neat if you reworked the grip to use standard grips of some sort (I'd go with 1911 grip panels).

>>1750142
this desu
At the very least every single engineering student ought to do one course of cad, i don't give a damn if you're an electrical engineer, if you can't cad, you're nothing

>>1750156
You tell that the electrical engineers and they start whining. ''How can I draw volts in CAD'' my ass, bunch on incompotent sparkies.

>>1750165
The same way a mechanical engineer draws horsepower. :^)

>>1750167
Pretty fookin easy that.
https://grabcad.com/library/big-block-hemi-v8-with-supercharger

>>1750156
>be me
>working in a wood finishing workshop
>we get this big job, it's a batch of desktops for a school, just a lot of big rectangles
>turns out they're not actually furniture manufacturersdaddy has a company selling CNC machines and the son is using the machines to make stuff after graduating
>tops are literally just rectangles, like draw a rectangle and press "cut"
>say to the guy he should really be rounding his corners, aesthetics aside it really helps the finish, paint doesn't like sharp corners
>"OK"
>next batch come in, some of the edges are shittily sanded back a little, most are just the same
>"bro just do a fillet"
>"OK"
>but no
>have to literally go over there and show him how to do a fillet, like 3 clicks and maybe 20 seconds extra per top
>it transpires he just finished his DOCTORATE in mechanical engineering
I did EE and even I can use Solidworks.

>>1750142
I have tried giving courses to high schoolers for CAD. Apart from some gifted individuals that are extremely gifted, it didn't really catch on, especially with a very filled curriculum. You'd probably need to start much earlier with some basics and draw out the process ove ra longer time than just high school - and even then it's better to place it in the higher curriculum, so save it for after high school.

>>1750169
Most CNC controllers even have tool compensation baked-in from the get-go...
Also, why the fuck would you get a fucking DOCTORATE in ME? Anything after a Masters is pointless.

>>1750169
>doctorate
Found your problem. Even at the Bachelor's level most people ar every disinterested in CAD in my opinion, and very few people know how to wrench. Just get your degree, get in a fat paying job, and screw the CAD skills because you rarely use them in college/uni - and then face the fact that most Bachelor jobs will needs quite a bit of CAD drawing. Same for Master's.

>>1750171
>Also, why the fuck would you get a fucking DOCTORATE in ME?
There's such a thing as ''eternal students'' in European university culture, and you need a doctorate to qualify for professor positions at a lot of high end uni's.

>>1750172
Here in North America, there's an old saying...
>Those who can't do, teach

>>1750170
That's because CAD sucks. When this stuff started in the 1960's the users were all draftsmen, so the UI paradigm was, of course, a drafting table. And here we are 60 years later and it's still a goddamned drafting table. Students today have never even seen one, the people it's pandering to are dead, but here we are.

>>1750175
Draftsight is absolute cancer. I would actually rather work in AutoCAD, and I'm on record saying I'd blow my brains out if I had to work in AutoCAD.

>>1750175
What should it be?

>>1750175
I don't know what you're talking about, i use Fusion

>>1750181
The application he's using is basically the knock-off AutoCAD that comes packed with SolidWorks.
The project managers at one company I worked at used that for verification of the stuff we made in SW. It's ridiculously bare-bones.

>>1750175
>That's because CAD sucks.
CAD is CAD regardless of the interface. You pick a plane, you add a 2d sketch to it, then you pick a function to perform on that sketch (or multiples) to generate the surfaces/edges you want.
>muh interface
I've used 6 different CAD packages. The interfaces are pretty immaterial once you get used to the few differences there are in hotkeys.

4 iterations later I've got a perfect snap-on monitor hood.

>>1746723
I had issues with stringing on my Ender 5, and increased retraction to 6mm (retraction speed 25mm/s) and it almost disappeared completely. You could always try and see if those settings would help. But I'm really not an expert.

How likely is my house to burn down if I leave my printer unattended while printing?

>>1750234
How many times have you printed? How many times did the house burned down (or you prevented it)?

>>1750234
Is it an anet? Because 200% likely if so.

>>1750234
if it's a chinkshit, high, if not, none

>>1750265
Ender 3.

>>1750275
The fake XT60 connector is known to overheat and get damaged over time if you print with the heated bed on constantly, but the ender 3 is a far cry from pieces of shit like pic related.

>>1750275
Unfortunately for you that does have a high chance of burning down the house (unless you got the pro model) due to chance for the chinkshit connectors melting and burning or the power supply giving out and burning down.

but it just works anons

>>1750275
You could do so called controlled burn, and burn down your house yourself, before your printer can.

>>1750275
>>1750281
>>1750282
That problem's been fixed. When you get your printer, check that the "Manufacture Date" on the sticker on the motherboard case says 2019. If it's 2018 or earlier there's a chance it has the bad connectors, in which case you'll want to solder on your own connectors, or just solder the wires together directly. If you buy from China chances are you're getting new stock that doesn't have the issue. If you buy from a retailer in the west I suppose there's a risk you get a unit that's been laying about for over a year.

>>1750145
When you say "check the plugged" did you reseat all connectors or just look at them? Have you checked voltages to the motherboard?

>>1750234
Does your PSU have UL or CSA sticker? If yes, likelihood is very low. If no, likelihood is higher.

>>1750322
This. Reseating (aka unplug and replug) connectors will fix a surprising number of computer issues.

>>1750322
>>1750327
Holy shit anons thanks, my printer works again, I was worried I fried the motherboard or something.

>>1750342
yay !

>>1750326
Like pic related?
Based on its positioning, if it did have that sticker, it would be covered by the black plastic housing that contains the plug and power switch.

>>1750427
UL logo

>>1750427
CSA logo

>>1750427
Conformité européenne

>>1750435
Not to be confused with China Export

>>1750435
>>1750436
The printer itself has this one. The PSU doesn't appear to have stickers/markings of any kind aside from warning labels, although neither do any of the Ender 3 PSUs I can see on Google Images.

>>1750285
This sticker? I don't see a manufacture date listed.

>>1750438
The PSU must have a sticker. Maybe it's hidden by how it was mounted?

The CE and FCC on the mainboard enclosure just means that part won't burn your house down nor interfere with police radios.

>>1750439
The sticker could either be on the side that's mounted to the frame, although I haven't seen any pics like that online, or as I mentioned in >>1750427, it could be covered by the black plastic piece on the bottom where the inlet and power switch are. Said piece reaches to just below the lower fan grates in that pic, which are just above that sticker.

>>1750438
You can see the sticker just to the left of the shot at 2m30s in
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kpmN3W0DGMQ

>>1750441
Ah, so it is up against the frame.
Shit, I was hoping to avoid any disassembly. At least it's only two screws.

>>1750438
Yeah, that's the sticker. Weird, mine has five rows, and the bottom right is Manufacture Date, with a value 2018.

There's another way to tell if you have the crummy connector. Look at where the wires connect to the XT60. If, under the heatshrink tube, there are clearly two round profiles, with the end toward the connector being slightly wider than the one toward the cable, you're good. If one of them is visibly oval or flattened, you should replace the plug.
The reason is that one of their subcontractors tried to save money by crimping rather than soldering connectors, and for a printer that sucks up quite a bit of power for the heat bed that's obviously no good. The connector would heat up from the bad connection and gradually melt, which would in 90% of the cases eventually make the printer shut down, but could potentially start a fire.

>>1749247
Run your STL through Microsoft's 3D Builder program if you're concerned about manifold/intersection issues, it does a pretty damn good job auto-booleaning and fixing bullshit.

Elegoo Mars keeps putting out those chef's kiss prints

>print 20mm calibration cube
>Y side measures 20.08mm
>adjust steps/mm from 80 to 79.68
>print another
>20.05mm
>drop again from 79.68 to 79.48
>third cube's Y side is 20.24mm thick
Am I doing something wrong? My first suspicion would be that the printer simply isn't equipped for accuracy within 0.1mm, but the steps/mm option offers an enormous range of values, so I figure they must do something. Could my third cube have just been a fluke? Should I print again with the same settings?

>>1750503
If you're consistently within 1% dimensional accuracy on a 20mm cube, you're probably good. What are you measuring with, and where are you measuring? On aheated bed printers, prints on the bottom layers tend to sag slightly and expand, while the top layers are more accurate.

>>1750503
have you tried printing multiple, shorter cubes?
do that or print a long line and you'll know the true problem

>>1750504
>What are you measuring with
Digital steel calipers.
>where are you measuring
I'm placing the cube completely within the caliper jaws, such that they contact the cube the whole way across the face I'm trying to measure. If I use just the caliper tips on the edge of the cube, it's too hard to ensure that I'm completely perpendicular to the face since the metal tips can bite into the plastic from a lot of angles.
>On aheated bed printers, prints on the bottom layers tend to sag slightly and expand
While this might account for the cube not truly being 20mm or truly a cube, with the way I'm measuring it should at least be consistently shrinking toward 20mm until I hit/pass it, assuming the printing process itself is uniform.

If the printing process ISN'T uniform, I might as well go back to the default settings since none of the measurements were more than 0.1mm off the expected value anyway.

>>1750507
Digital steel calipers are accurate up to 0.05mm, but read out to 0.01. That's error number one.

Where are you measuring, as a distance from the bottom? Exactly at the middle? Top? Bottom?

Recommend me a filament that looks like aluminium or steel.

>>1750508
>accurate up to 0.05mm, but read out to 0.01
Does this mean that measuring the same object twice can display two different results within 0.05mm?
>Where are you measuring, as a distance from the bottom?
On the X and Y faces, the calipers are placed perpendicular to the bottom, with the jaws touching both the bottom and the top edges of that face.
I realize now that I could measure across the whole top of the face parallel to the bottom instead of measuring the top with just the tips. However, I went ahead and took multiple measurements all along the cube's Y face, in both orientations.
What do you make of pic related?

Despite the mentioned sagging/expanding of the bottom of the print, measurements parallel to the bottom were much more consistent than measurements perpendicular to it, and in fact the bottom of the cube's Y face was more narrow than the top of it.
According to the calipers, the cube steadily gets wider from the back of its X face to the front of it, except at the end where it somehow gets narrower again. Even if these are not the true dimensions due to the mentioned inaccuracy of calipers, the measurements were consistent with each other when going back and doing them multiple times, so these are definitely the correct relative dimensions.
Given the almost uniform increase in size on the X axis, could it be an issue with bed leveling? Is there any way to improve leveling other than printing a flat test and eyeballing it real good or printing a million test cubes and constantly tweaking it?

>>1750512
I can see imminently that you dont use pressure control on the corners

>>1750514
I'm not >>1750508 and I think I need glasses, languagetool update is breaking my english

>>1750514
Looking at it from above, the corners do seem to bulge outward slightly across their whole length. Like the edges were grabbed and tugged on.
How would I fix that? Simplify3D doesn't seem to mention it in their troubleshooting section.

>>1750519
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Pressure_advance
https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper/blob/master/docs/Pressure_Advance.md
http://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lin_advance.html

Im looking to print this part from an MP5, any place to get it?

>>1750522
fun fact: the US commerce dept, in the license move from the state dept, wants to require licenses for 3d printed gun plans and is currently trying to collect data from sites like these to prove that 3d printed guns need to be regulated.

>being americuck
lmao

>>1750512
If your digital calipers are displaying 20.34, since they are only accurate up to 0.05, you should read that as 20.35 (round if off to 0.05). Print another cube with the exact same settings, then check again, see if your measurements are repeatable between cubes, then keep adjusting X- and Y-steps untill you get it right.

>>1749969
>california
>using pla outside

>>1750503
Just saying, a 20mm cube is way to smal to calibrate your XY-Stepps. The .08mm likely are based on extrusion width problems. Always calibrate E-stepps first.

>>1750542
What size object would you suggest for XY steps?
Also, why is it too small? Would consistent deviations would be indistinguishable from random deviations at that size?

>try to print something
>it's slightly too big in the wrong places and the nozzle knocks the clips off the bed
>start printing series of tests to see how I should configure max depth to compensate
>extruder skipping
>print leveling test
>leveling got fucked up and the nozzle is too close to the bed
>spend a couple hours re-printing leveling tests and making adjustments
>still not exactly right
I'm just going to start over from scratch with the paper sheet method and everything tomorrow. Probably should've done that in the first place.
I've gotta say, I expected a lot more just werking after the initial setup. The configuring process is starting to look more and more like a rabbit hole.

>>1750560
>What size object would you suggest for XY steps?
As large as your bed.
>Also, why is it too small?
because .08mm can easily be your filament being thicker than expected or your E-stepps being the slightest bit off.
Signal to noise

>>1750563
>own a duet and true automated leveling
>meanwell supply
now it just works(tm)

>>1750503
You fucking retard you're doing it wrong, you aren't supposed to measure the cube and then adjust your steps per mm, as long as the steps per mm correspond to actual mm travelled you don't need to touch them, this you can check with a ruler, for maximum accuracy go from zero to max.

>thread full of chinkshit owners desperately trying to make their printers work
This is what you get for trusting chang, should have bought a Prusa.

>>1750592
I've had no issues with my Ender 3 Pro, but I also have a degree in CNC programming, so...

Pic is one of the first prints I did on it, using PLA that was stored for like 5 years improperly and I got to ~80 degree overhangs before seeing any deformation.

>>1750594
That's exactly the thing with chinkshit, sometimes it works just fine, and yet, the thread is full of people for whom it doesn't work.

>>1750596
I think a lot of it comes down to assembly.
I spent a lot of time and effort making sure everything is nice and square, did test prints and adjusted everything until I was getting consistent quality.
Even things like where on the bed you print will affect quality.
The most accurate point is always going to be dead-center, because the difference in the Z axis will be greater the further from the center you get.
I'd strongly recommend getting stronger bed springs and some wingnuts to prevent the bed adjustment nuts from walking.

>>1750596
>>1750592
Your posting device was made in China and is a lot more complex than a fucking FDM machine.
Your argument China bad is from 2005.
I agree that cheap Chinese printers aren't the best but thats why they're cheap. Not a China problem though

>>1745595
NEW PASTEBIN:

https://pastebin.com/43ZPzsET

Please use for any future OP's please, collagedude.

>>1750613
>Not a China problem though
Very much a "China problem".

You see, China can deliver good products, but they can just as easily not deliver a good product and you won't know which you have. This happens because someone wants to pocket some extra profits, lousy QA, not understanding the specs, etc. And given the level of corruption and obfuscation in the Chinese legal system and labour laws, there's no real downside for a supplier to under-deliver.

>>1745595
Hi, so i bought a multimeter to diagnose my broken heating bed. Idk how to do this properly. So far i set the meter to alarm setting, I touched the red detector lead to the 3 metal screws on the left i have half circled in pic and the black detector on the stainless steel and i got sound. I did the same with the rest and got nothing. How do I test the rest with this multimeter? Any connector i should be looking for in particular for the bed?

The wires look perfectly fine, nothing appears burnt out.

>>1750659
typo on line 54 still, a used form 2 probably would be a better option to a form 3 but it still works

>>1750677
that seems to be just a profit margin problem, you can have shit made anywhere, its just the scale; not that there isn't a china specific problem to the point where they have to import rice in order to not have plastic pellets in their food, but counterfeits can be made anywhere (just that there's no one stopping Chinese companies from doing so, as opposed to many smaller scale knockoffs on the other side of the world)

What's the difference between XTC3D and the clear epoxy resin I can get from Home Depot?

Is there a way to set certain areas of the print bed as off-limits to the machine or while arranging models in a slicer?
I tried to print something close to the edge and the nozzle knocked a binder clip off the bed. Accounting for that by hand is hard since I can't see exactly where the clips are on the bed when I'm putting the models in the slicer, and I also can't see how big the model's skirt will be.
I tried reducing Maximum Depth, and the virtual print bed did get smaller, but on the actual print bed it still reached the edges of the bed.

>>1750994
I saw a video where a guy changed the image of the print bed in his slicer, so he could work around a divot in the print bed. I can't remember what slicer he was using though.

>>1750994
>I tried reducing Maximum Depth, and the virtual print bed did get smaller, but on the actual print bed it still reached the edges of the bed.

That's because the origin is at the front left corner of the bed still. When your printer does its zeroing it determines the physical origin point and then everything else is relative to that point so the virtual bed will always be placed at the front left corner of the physical one.

You could shift the origin to have the virtual bed be properly centered on the physical one. You can attach extensions to the parts that hit the limit switches so that the switches get hit early and trick the printer into thinking the origin is further into the bed, but then you have the problem of the hot end resting inside the bed while heating up which could wreck your bed in that specific spot and cause melted plastic to build up on the nozzle.

>>1751034
>When your printer does its zeroing it determines the physical origin point and then everything else is relative to that point
So there's no way to restrict it to a smaller print surface without moving the origin, which will also move the location where the print head sits while heating?
I guess I'll have to just measure the distance between my clips and take care not to print anything close to those dimensions, although the skirt not being visible in the slicer does complicate that a bit.
Considering that these binder clips come with the machine, it seems like a pretty big oversight for there to be no official solution to.

>>1750994
>>1751005
You can do this in Cura. The print bed image is an STL, the graphic is just a cut out in a rectangular block. The STLs are located in the Program Files folder.

>>1751067
>although the skirt not being visible in the slicer does complicate that a bit.

You don't check the layer view before printing?

>it seems like a pretty big oversight for there to be no official solution

Yeah it is kind of weird that slicers don't have a boundary setting.

>>1751071
>You don't check the layer view before printing?
I will now, thanks anon.

The two squares on the right side of my leveling test have a line running through them where the plastic didn't join together, as though it didn't spread out enough. Both the top and bottom squares on that side have it, and it's in the exact same place on both of them.
Does this mean that my bed is deformed, like it's got a channel or something running all the way across it right there? I'm using a glass bed.
Even if I raise the bed so that those spots join together, they're still rough while the rest of the squares are smooth. If I raise it even more than that, I start to run into extrusion problems on that side of the bed.

>>1751067
You can specify an offset in firmware, basically tell it that the 0,0 location is actually negative coordinates, and then it will heat in the same spot and move over further to the new 0,0 which is further in on the bed.

I have a Hephestos 2 and a Creatily CR-10 V2.
What makes the big price difference between printers? Like why is a Prusa i3 worth 1000$ while an Ender 3 has comparable specs? Am I missing something?

>>1751260
>inb4 prusafaggot's chinkshit comment
its part selection and manufacturing costs
prusa uses a print farm, has generally higher quality parts (to creality; far higher than kits and anets) and there is a tax for prusa products due to "r&d"
compared to an openbuild with the same parts; prusa isnt as price effective; but will generally be better than a cheap printer.

How long will it take for 3D printers to work right out of the box without any troubleshooting and other shenanigans required?

>>1745595
>extruder skipping steps
why though?

>>1751260
Ender 3 may have comparable specs, but it's the final few things that make the i3 more expensive: autoleveling, proper bed, etc. Those minor upgrades cost an awful lot compared to the rest of the printer because there's less volume in fancy printer bed than in aluminium extrusions or stepper motors. Then there's wages, obviously Prusa and Hephestos printers will be more expensive simply because they're made in Europe and not in China. Most important (to me) factor that adds costs: QA You can shit out thousands of printers like the Chinks, but in any Euro country you're almost required to check that they are functional and no corners have been cut by your suppliers. In China it's almost too damn easy to just cheap out on, say, XT60 connectors (which has happened on the Ender 3), or cheaping out on heater cartridges and then obfuscating that by not implementing thermal runaway protection. It's those few things that are incredibly dangerous that don't cost a Chinese company anything but can ruin the Euros with lawsuits. Finally, good customer service that gets shit done and replaces broken components is expensive. I've had good experience with various Euro brands and some US, but experience online with the Chinks has been..... suboptimal. Creality and Anycubic seem to hav etheir shit together but even tha tis not a given.

>>1751275
If you spend 3K on an Ultimaker and use their filament, their slicing settings, and don't fix it untill it's broken, and use it within it's designed parameters (i.e. don't print 90 degrees overhangs and expect 0.01mm resolution), it already does that. Prusa is 90% there but requires assembly. Various chinkshit brand can be operational within 30 minutes but require experience, conservative slicer settings and high quality filament - and even then offer a narrower performance window.

>>1751279
>good consumer service
>has to break the printer in order to install custom software
>no corners cut
>RAMBo board
you need to rethink your perspective, an abl sensor is 5$
safety feature-wise your prusa is just as safe as a mks gen L

>>1750821
Line 54 is empty, and used printers are a can of worms I cannot wholeheartedly recommend to new users.

Since we're going 404: collagebro, please use the new pastebin - my collage skills SUCK.

>>1750659
>https://pastebin.com/43ZPzsET

>>1751385
the form two specifically has guaranteed consumable support and a 500$(cheap for the kind of product) service plan for used products.

>>1750773
Check to make sure the wires leading from the bed connector are seated correctly, I had a wiring problem too earlier in this thread and reseating the wires fixed my issues

>>1751260
>Like why is a Prusa i3 worth 1000$

It isn't, most of the cost is a tax for joining josef prusa's personality cult.

Pic is what a chinktanium 3d printer that is like 1/4th the cost of an i3 can shit out with garbage quality PLA. If you're going to spend $1000 on a printer then you might as well buy a chinese printer made of solid aluminum rails for $300 and spend the other $700 on upgrades that will leave an i3 in the dust.

>>1751447
Very nice. What'd you do to hide the zits that typically appear on rounded objects where the layers change?

Oof, I wish these threads went faster/received more attention. Got some problems with my new printer and don't know what to do.

>>1751551
>Got some problems with my new printer and don't know what to do.
elaborate

>>1751561
>Got an Eryone Thinker S for Christmas
>set it up 3 days ago
>first print seem okay except for the last layer that seems to peel off upwards
>second print pic related, found it dragged to the starting/ending position in the bottom left corner
>try a different print
>extruder is skipping steps a lot
>nozzle seems to scratch over the print a lot
>when I auto home the nozzle does not touch the bed
What went wrong? The slicer? Do I need BLTouch?

>>1751561
>>1751566

>>1751569
Is the tension spring too tight?

>>1751574
I can't tell, I never printed anything until 3 days ago and this is how it came out of the box, brand new. I don't know what causes this.

>>1749606
just use OpenSCAD nigga

>>1751574
Wouldn't the webm he posted rather imply the tension spring being too loose?

>>1750773
Chapter 7: Understanding the Basics of Electronics Circuits
Chapter 9: Making Friends with Your Multimeter
Chapter 16: Ten (Or So) Cool Electronics Testing Tool Tips

https://b-ok.cc/book/463328/295679

good luck and have fun
please dont get yourself grilled

>>1751585
No. If the tension spring is too loose the filament just doesn't get pressed into the gear enough. That the gear is skipping shows that the pressure is enough. There's something either clogging the hot end (is the temperature correct?) or there's an issue with the stepper (too low current?)

>>1751603
Hotend was at 210°C, using PLA that has a range from 190-220°C. Maybe it is the spring. The current I did not fuck with and it is still at factory standard.
What do you think causes this? >>1751566
Should I just try to relevel the bed and hope it goes away? I don't want to damage the printer or the bed.

Missing supports are causing bad bridging on this print. Did I fuck with the settings too much.

Its a Frisbee like base for a rotating spice holder. It has a void on the bottom to add some weight if necessary. Prusa slicer has always generated supports for surfaces like this with long bridges but i dont know whats going on this time.

>>1751605
It ain't the spring. The fact that the extruder keeps skipping back means that it's missing a step, that happens because it isn't strong enough to push the filament through. If it was a loose spring the problem you'd have would be that the gear turns smoothly but that the filament doesn't move at all.

>>1751608
What do you suggest? I used filament made by the manufacturer of the printer so it can't be that, right? I am pretty lost since there are so many variables.

>>1751609
I've never heard of that brand and don't know the common problems.

>I am pretty lost since there are so many variables.
Welcome to the beginning of this hobby. YouTube troubleshooting will be your next step

>>1751609
You have 4 variables : extruder stepper (check voltage), hotend temp (check with a IR reader or thermocoupler), hot end is dirty/jammed, filament (maybe you have a bad batch? do you have a different spool to check?)

>>1751619
To out myself as a noob here, how do I check the voltage of the stepper? Do I need to get to the motherboard to do that? Now that you mention it, I think it only happened when I switched from the test filament that came with the printer itself to the official spool that I bough separately. I just read on some blog that PLA could need more pressure than other filaments.
Tomorrow when I am back home I will check the bowden tubes (just learned what that actually is) if they are clear and see if the filament inside is damaged or warped or whatever. Then I will report back.

>>1751622
>how do I check the voltage of the stepper?
There's a bunch of videos on YT that would explain it.

>Do I need to get to the motherboard to do that?
You should be able to check from the connector on the extruder's stepper. You will have to access the stepper driver board to change it, though.

>>1751636
thanks m8

>>1746269
Clear the clog in your hotend. When you put the nozzle back on, loosen it a turn or two then push the bowden tube down before tightening the nozzle back. That way you will have PTFE directly into the nozzle. You probably have a gap now which extends the melt zone into the heat break which melts until the heat creeps up too high and clogs again., giving you temporary underextrusion until it stops extruding altogether.

>>1751566
>>1751569
In my (short) experience, the extruder skipping could mean that the nozzle is too close to the bed, so the gear isn't powerful enough to force the plastic through such a small gap.
Try slightly lowering the bed, or specific corners of it if the skipping only happens in some parts of the bed.

The undersides of the overhangs on my unsupported overhang test get pretty bumpy at 60° and above. Is this a printer limitation, or what settings would I tweak to improve that?
My flat bridging tests were all fine.

>>1751519
not that anon but there's retract on layer change (I use a z hop), wall printing order, smart hiding, and when you are printing between structures there's combing to avoid skin, some slicers wipe on layer change* (note at the end), optimizing stringing retracts, ooze shield mode, printing two tall thin models at once to help cool down and control ooze, and optimizing wall printing order.

skin rotation/extra skin and randomized start points may help but slow down the print and dont try to fix the situation, just hide the problem.

*you have to disable firmware retraction, dont use it, its dumb and doesnt help unless you have a dumb printer with firmware retracts, and I mean dumb enough where it slows down to retract. (if you think your printer is this dumb, ask yourself: am I printing above 60mm/s? do I have a long bowden tube? am I printing from an sd card? am I using extended features like mesh bed levelling, a big display, wifi, multi extrusion, delta/corexy math, high microstepping, pressure advance or very frequent usb temp requests? am I using bloated gcode or an old ver of marlin? if I'm tethered, did I change the default baud rate for my host or ask it to report back every detail? if you answered yes to a majority of those, then your printer might be running slow and you should try disabling a few superfluous features or get a 32 bit board)

also, dont coast, that makes voids in your print, doesnt take printing speed into account and was from a time before extruder wiping.

>>1751741
>Is this a printer limitation

This is an effect known as "gravity"

>>1751751
thank god for the 3D printers we have in space right now. Shame people don't use them more, though.

>>1751751
It's not like it's impossible to thwart gravity in all cases. Bridges exist.

>>1751606
There is a support setting- don't support bridges or sth like that. Turn it off

>>1751741
If you use cura you can set it to print overhangs slower so they have more time to cool. Ive set mine at 30% speed for oh above 55° and it works fine most times

>>1751569
Could be one of a hundred different things
on my chinkshit printer the dumb chinks hadn't even set up the extruder stepper current correctly

>>1751750
>wall printing order
what wall order would be the best to reduce z-seam?
>wipe on layer change
wall wiping reduces stringing but not z-seam
>randomized
does not look prettier, maybe with some filaments
>smart hiding
does not affect round objects, right?

anything else I can do?

Why does my extruder try to pull out all the filament from the extruder -> hotend bowden tube after I aborted a printing action?

I'm looking for a CoreXY as my first 3d printer. Found this

King Finger Elf 3D Printer CoreXY

On amazon with a coupon brings it under $400 shipped. I have no idea how long the coupon will be good for, it's about $480 on other sites. Problem is it's chinese shit and there is no community, only one set of videos from some german dude. The belt pathing seems fine and it's got a nice big fuck all volume, I'm just wondering if I should jump in at this level or start with a smaller CoreXY or standard PLA with a big community.

Thoughts?

>>1751945
>my first 3d printer.
>chinese shit
>no community,

Don't, unless you have the electronics skills and general debugging talent to figure out any problem on your lonesome.

>>1751949
What is a good first printer option?

>>1751953
ender. fucking. 3.

Read the goddamn OP.

>>1745595
Just built my creality ender 3 w/glass top last night.
Where in NYC (ideally near the UWS) can I get filament and shit? what should I be getting in addition to some filament?

Also, what are the first upgrades I should print?