/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>bought into the orange and grey
>deeply regret it because they refuse to come out with a cordless bandsaw
>where as red and black comes out with cordless everything

>>1698027

I went pawnshop hopping and found the M18 1/4" hex impact, battery and charger, bought a set of batteries and have a drill and a 3/8" ratchet M12, this isn't the Milwaukee I remember seeing in Harbor Freight a few years ago.

Why would you buy a cordless tool apart from maybe a drill driver?
I mean unless you're a tradie, but then your opinion doesn't matter.

>>1698031

I'm a tradesman but not with my hands, I drive a truck.

I went cordless because I'm doing some fabrication in tight spaces and because I can afford it, why the hell not

>I mean unless you're a tradie, but then your opinion doesn't matter.

>>1698031
Because it’s 2019 and most of the big companies don’t put any development into their corded tools. Meanwhile you can buy a battery powered 1/2” impact wrench that is more powerful than the best air tools and use the thing to pull lugnuts of commercial trucks on the side of the road.

>>1698027
You should’ve known what you were buying. It’s like buying a VW Jetta and wondering why they don’t offer it with the best Porsche options.

>>1698045

I watched the TA dude use something similar to pull the lugnuts off my FL when i picked up a bolt in my drives in Jonesboro AR

>>1698045
>>1698050
>anonymous imageboard
you guys are fags

>>1698059

>muh aspergers

fuck off

>>1698061
How's Florida, tripfag?

>>1698077

hot, we need another cold front

>>1698027
I'm a sparky as well, and I think a cordless bandsaw would be great for every platform. I think I might end up going Kobalt and Makita for my cordless tools.

No shade to Milwaukee though. I routinely use them at work, their metal circ saw, drill, impact, one hand sawzall, etc. It's good shit but expensive.

>>1698116
+1. I’m going to the Gulf side next weekend for a little getaway and it was brisk and super nice the same time last year.

>>1698050
The new brushless stuff with lithium batteries is a different animal. Anybody like >>1698031 hasn’t used a cordless power tool from the past 10 years.

Lithium alone changed the game for DIY guys because I don’t have to put a battery on the charger for 45min just to drop in two drywall anchors, the battery packs will stay charged for months.

I still gotta grab me a full sized circ saw. There is a Ridgid deal right now with the 7-1/4” for ~$150 and a free 3.0 battery and charger, would be real tempted to grab that if I didn’t just spend a few hundred on jewelry and then whatever we get into next weekend.

>>1698153
>Kobalt
I wouldn’t do it. They’re nice, but since Lowe’s brought in Craftsman, I’m almost positive they are shelving the Kobalt brand. They put all of it on sale and they carry a very limited selection in-store now.

Milwaukee isn’t any more expensive than Makita though. It’s just that the bandsaw is one of their newest and sought after tools, one of those things that will convince people to buy into that brand. That’s the exact reason why they won’t be selling a Ryobi or Ridgid bandsaw any time soon even though the tools are manufactured by the same people. If I’m a weekend warrior who only needs a Ryobi quality drill, but I really really want the bandsaw and don’t want multiple batteries and chargers, I will end up having to spend more $$$ on all Milwaukee tools.

>>1698153
I don't mind cutting pipe with a hacksaw but it sucks dick when you're somewhere that you cant plug in/access a corded bandsaw so you have to cut unistrut by hand with a hacksaw. Anyone reading this feel free to call me a pussy but saving time is also the name of the game whether you're doing residential or commercial or industrial

>>1698153
Carpenter and Milwaukee junkie here. Their hackzall is a far better tool than the weird shape would indicate. It's great for small demo or just cutting pipe on a plumbing job.

>>1698205
Pic related is tempting me at $109. I don’t really need it when I already have a sawzall, but I like it.

>>1698215
The small ones are shit for cutting anything besides PVC and soft wood. Just stick with your full sized sawzall

>>1698224
I kinda like it for standing up on the ladder pruning branches and shit. Looks like it could rip with a 3.0 battery on it.

>>1698215
Not the person you replied too, but I try to avoid those sorts of saws at all costs. It takes forever to cut, doesn't cut clean, it's just bleh.

I've been using a smaller circular saw, and as long as nothing is behind it, it will cut clean.

>>1698234
I don’t need clean cuts when I’m standing on the top step of a wobbly ladder, and they chew through that poinciana tree with a fresh pruning blade. One of those looks a lot more comfortable to hold above my head than the big orbital sawzall. The sawzall is a beast, but it’s big.

Too bad Ridgid’s 12V lineup isn’t worth a damn, if they release a 12v hackzall like the M12, I would grab that in a second. I’m sure I could get some work done with the 4.0 battery.

>>1698227
Just get a polesaw if thats what youre going for

>>1698450
I have a manual pole saw. And keep debating the electric one. But it’s more fun trying to find an excuse to build up the 18V collection.

>>1698454
Buy it and fab your own polesaw. Wouldn't be hard to do, just have to figure out how to pull the trigger from the ground

>>1698475
The corded one are only like $60.

Milwaukee by far has the best 12v line. Makita is stepping it up though. I just bought a 5 piece M12 set. It's real nice to have a light weight drill and driver for light duty-mid duty stuff. That's about 95 percent of what I do. I still have an older nicad 18v set if need be and corded stuff for the real heavy work.

>>1698711
I keep shilling this stuff too. M12 comes with a 5 year warranty, has more than enough power for homeowner duty stuff, and it’s almost as cheap as Ryobi, pic related is only $119 right now and I have seen deals for $150 with pic related and a free tool of your choice. I grab my 12V drill and impact driver way more than the 18V stuff because most of the time I need the drill, it’s little shit around the house.

I don’t know why Makita changed their 12V tools, they used to have the barrel batteries like Milwaukee and Ridgid which I like a lot because they’re so compact, but now it’s the same design as DeWalt. I think maybe you can charge those style batteries on the same charger as the 18V tools, but Milwaukee already figured it out without making the double duty charger much larger than just the 18V charger.

>>1698720
>not using fuel line and wasting money on the fucking shit brick that is the impact and drill
I've had both and they're shit

>>1698730
That Fuel is a dream, the impact drivers look incredible. My buddy who did telecoms installs (RIPIP) got the Fuel 1/4” hex impact like a year ago and shelved his 18V. That kit goes on sale for $199 a lot, they may have offered it with a free tool as well.

Homeowner who can get by with 20V Black & Decker will be fine running the non-Fuel M12, plus they have the option to upgrade if they want a hammer drill or something on that platform. That line is real nice for tech people too, the 18V lineups are built to hold up to full production and demo where the people will be running the tools all day, but a 2.0Ah 12V pack will run fine for an electrician or HVAC guy who is using to take panel covers off/on all day but doesn’t need a tool that brag about driving giant lag bolts in 2 second with 100Wh battery pack.

Guys, what's the best tool for cutting unistrut or aluminum extrusion/tslot nice and square?
Any good jigs/techniques for doing it with a sawzall? (It's the only power saw I have)

>>1698740
Clamp it in a vice

>>1698740
horizontal bandsaw

>>1698740
Portaband for site work, cold saw or bandsaw for shop work.

>>1698735
I have the m12 fuel impact after using the normal impact. Its miles better, I've been using it for over a year now, beat the shit out of it,dropped it off ladders and it still runs like it's brand new.

>>1698743
no shit

>>1698783
>>1698786
Thanks anons. I didn't even know about portable band saws.

>>1698158
have these ever been used lol

>>1698799
Are you kidding? That's Bepis, the resident historian on the /diy/. You should look for his threads, they are interesting as fuck. His current project is to build a Home Depot replica, by buying every tool on home depot shelves and faithfully recreating the tool isle in his own garage. That doesnt entail using tools, that would ruin them!

His beautiful collection is quite impressive, in 100 years people will look at it an know exactly what a 2010s big box stores took isle looked like, cheap chink tools and all!

>>1698799
Meh. Sawzall has been used a handful of times, but that doesn’t really get greasy. The impact driver and drill... honestly not much.

These new brushless motors are sweet, and it’s impressive when a 1/4” hex driver can remove lugnuts, but it’s also way too fucking powerful for most things you want a 1/4” impact for. I got them for xmas last year and I go for the 12V tools most of the time since I’m not driving giant lag bolts every weekend.

>>1698882

He's also pepsifaggot on /o/ in the Truckerfag general

this used to be a good board

attention whore tripfags are ruining it

>>1698061
Literal faggot.

>>1699147
He's also Owner-Optimus Primefag !hoSMSS3fmY on /diy/

my router collection would make you all jealous.

>>1698882
It’s hard to keep up tho, I want a Home Depot-Lowe’s bastard child tool section but I’m not sure what to do with all my Kobalt crap now. I have a lotta Craftsman to get down on too.

Maybe I can use the Kobalt to repair shit since I can’t really display them anymore.

>>1699147
Don’t forget /out/!

For any fags invested in/ thinking of investing in the m12 lineup, just found this while browsing the Homeless Despot site for no particular reason. Ends tomorrow.

>>1699292
>6 18650's in a plastic housing for 170 dollars.
haha fucked.

>>1699293
Welcome to the wonderful world of buying tool batteries.

>>1699293
But people say you are a stupid boomer if you buy corded/pneumatic

>>1698031
Certain cordless tools are definately worth it, but it really depends on the job the tool is needed for, and the awkwardness of using a corded tool for the same job.
Cordless tools usually weigh more because of the battery, but you also don’t have to worry about a cord getting in the way, so there are trade offs between the two.
The other major advantage to cordless tools is safety in wet locations.
Even higher voltage cordless tools are not running at voltages that will likely kill you if the tool gets wet.
Then again the lithium battery cells could catch on fire in a bad situation.

Other than drill/drivers, then best cordless tools for usefullness are;
Impact wrenches and impact drivers. Mechanics love cordless impact wrenches, and many are switching to them from air, both due to advances in the impact designs making cordless as good as air, and not having to deal with the air hose.
Cordless nailers.
Various systems have existed for years mainly because desling with the air hoses is a pain, and because you need to bring a compressor with you, witch is annoying for doing small amounts of trim in a number of different rooms.
Cordless oscillating multitools, like Fein Multimasters and Supercits are way more convenient than the corded versions, and this is the type of tool then really benefits from cordless.
Cirdless jogsaws have been a thing for decades, and while not great for continuous use for tons of identicle cuts in production, cordless jogsaws are perfect for the weird cuts that come up on jobsites that may involve standing on a ladder, or cutting something in an awkward corner.
Cordless reciprocating saws would also be usefull if they have the power of a corded tool, in the past the batteries weren’t up to the task. I’m still doubtfull about newer tools.
Cordless metal shears and nibblers.
These have actually been in production for years but cost a fortune. Sheet metal destroys cords though.

>>1699292
You can get the drill, driver, plus those two batteries and charger for $20 more. They have much better sales on M12 stuff if you watch online.

>>1699293
That’s like full MSRP if you bought each of those 3 things individually.

>>1698027
Bitch what the fuck do you mean cordless bandsaw?

>>1699410
Milwaukee makes one in 18V and a babby 12V version.

It all starts with a drill

>>1699429
>20 drills

Fuck most cordless, and fuck Ridgid. Most cordless manufacturers seem to be using a model similar to the inkjet printer manufacturers. They sell the tool for next to nothing, and then rape you on shit batteries that don't last long between charges.

Case and point, Ridgid.

Went to DeWalt. Not because brand recognition, but they do have a small impact drill that works best for my application(s). A little pricier, but the batteries last a fuck ton longer between charges. Yes, most of the Ridgid tools I have are/were brushless.

>>1698031
i just installed a whole house filter in my well pumphouse, which is hundreds of feet from my house and only has power going to a light hanging from the ceiling.

the whole process took a couple hours and needed:

>area light
>impact driver
>3/8 ratched for working behind the pressure gauges
>sawzall for cutting up PVC

all M12 cordless stuff, no extension cords or running back and forth for additional equipment or making cuts with corded stationary tools.

>>1699392
those are the 3.0 batteries, the $100 brushed M12 kit Home Depot sells only come with the 1.5ah batteries.

>>1699448
if your Ridgid batteries are properly registered just call the phone number on the bottom of the battery and they will send you a new one if they fail.

>>1699504
That’s not quite as bad. I didn’t even know they made 3.0 packs with only 3 cells, those must be some good cells though if they’re able to pull power tool current out of 3000mAh 18650s without paralleling them up.

You could wait for the free tool sale again as well, because I think that one will sometimes let you pick a battery or two instead of another tool, and you still get the drill, driver, and 2x 1.5’s for $120-$150.

Either way you would be dumb to pay full price on single battery packs.

>>1699505
Only problem is Ridgid only gives you the lifetime warranty on batteries if they come in a kit. If you buy just the battery, it’s 3 years. That’s why I waited to try the Octane batteries even though I wanted one of the 3.0s real bad when they first came out.

big green dick coming through.

>>1699529
Wait, are those mowers 18V?

>me waiting for the damn Ridgid vac and/or blower to be part of a kit or something slightly better than $90
I want some shit like that for my garage because the big shop vac is annoying for little piles of dust and it’s a pain in the ass starting the gas blower just to clear out the garage.

>>1699423
I use the 18V Milwaukee portaband at work all the time. It is sweeeeet.

>>1699611
Yeah dude I used to work with had one and if’s so much easier (quieter) going through metal with that thing instead of a sawzall or grinder. I’m tempted to snag the Bauer for $100 from HF just because.

>>1699655
After extensive apprentice (ab)use, the blade started tracking uncontrollably. I picked up new pulleys and tires and it now it runs like new. And yeah, low noise, no sparking; cuts through unistrut like butter.

Hilti or bust, you godless heathens.

I always seem to get burned on battery powered tools, especially weed eaters because I am poor fag. I go cheap. I do like how ryobi keeps the same battery but 18 volts is weak sauce. Rebuildable with eneloops though. The tools are somewhat middling in power and the quality is meh. Anyone have recommendations? Should i bite down and go in dry on higher end tools? I've seen 80 volt trimmers.

>>1700285
You should just get down on one of the better 18V trimmers. If you use a bigger battery and get one with a brushless motor, I bet you would be surprised.

The 40V+ tools, that shit kinda sucks because you will only have one or two tools that use the $200 battery pack. DeWalt has a cool idea with the Flexvolt but they’re pricey packs, or Makita has the shit that runs 2x 18V packs, and Milwaukee is getting away with some real neat stuff only using a single HO pack.

Protip- you can pull the same total power from a 15 cell 18V pack as you can a 15 cell 60V pack.

>>1699579
They use 2 batteries in series to double the voltage. Makita has a cordless mower that uses this same method. Probably some other brands too. I think nominally they get like 30-45 minutes of run time out of a pair of 5Ah batteries.

>>1700285
80V sounds like a lie. There are numerous Chinesium tools on Ali and the like claiming ridiculous voltages and mAh ratings when in reality they’re bog standard 12/18V jobbies with 2-3 Ah batteries. Post the weed eater you’re talking about and we can probably tell you whether or not that 80V is realistic.

>>1699505
>if your Ridgid batteries are properly registered just call the phone number on the bottom of the battery and they will send you a new one if they fail.

Didn't know that, thank you. But frankly, I shouldn't have to "register" a battery to get warranty service on it, ya know?

>>1700324
They give you the runaround anyways, don't even waste your time.

>>1700306
https://www.amazon.com/Greenworks-16-Inch-Cordless-Included-ST80L210/dp/B01CA4PRRO/ref=sr_1_3?crid=T4MNOBKEHY7S&keywords=80+volt+weed+eater&qid=1571292565&sprefix=80+volt+weed+ea%2Caps%2C297&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/80-Volt-Straight-Brushless-Cordless-Trimmer/dp/B01D1ZGYY6/ref=sr_1_5?crid=T4MNOBKEHY7S&keywords=80+volt+weed+eater&qid=1571292565&sprefix=80+volt+weed+ea%2Caps%2C297&sr=8-5

I have a stihl which i hate and a black and decker 40 volt but the battery broke right out of warranty. They seem to have the power and if you get the extended packs, they run time and they run cooler but the string is super thin for run time. Doesn't have very good cutting power because of that.

>>1700384
Looking at those battery packs I could believe there’s 20 18650’s series up in there. I’d steer clear of that greenworks. They probably cheaped out in a lot of places to hit that low price point.

May I ask why you don’t just get a gas weed eater?

>>1700395
Low fuel quality, near third world. A lot of local gas stations illegally dilute fuel with more than 10% ethanol. I did a test on a local go mart and found 38% ethanol in it. I found this in several different stations in the area. I also work in the fuel industry at a depot and I know people who work at the refineries, they typically buy the cheapest bottom of the barrel fuel. I've had to replace dozens of carbs in the last few years and I don't let them sit with fuel in them. I've had brand new mowers gum up in less than a week on this stuff. The closest non ethanol fuel is over an hour away and even they have issues with sediment. I live in the US.
I also like the ease of use, low maintenance, light weight and I have free power, I live off grid. I am debating converting all of my powered equipment to propane. I can get propane without road tax for 1.60 a gallon in bulk around august.

>>1700328
>They give you the runaround anyways, don't even waste your time.
>>1700397
>Low fuel quality, near third world. A lot of local gas stations illegally dilute fuel with more than 10% ethanol. I did a test on a local go mart and found 38% ethanol in it. I found this in several different stations in the area. I also work in the fuel industry at a depot and I know people who work at the refineries, they typically buy the cheapest bottom of the barrel fuel. I've had to replace dozens of carbs in the last few years and I don't let them sit with fuel in them. I've had brand new mowers gum up in less than a week on this stuff. The closest non ethanol fuel is over an hour away and even they have issues with sediment. I live in the US.
>I also like the ease of use, low maintenance, light weight and I have free power, I live off grid. I am debating converting all of my powered equipment to propane. I can get propane without road tax for 1.60 a gallon in bulk around august.

You live in the US and you are having an issue with local gas stations diluting fuel over the delivered 10% ethanol?

I call bullshit. Every state in the US has not only weights and measures employees who test (in this case), dispensers for accuracy, as well as have people whose job is to test fuel quality at gas stations and to an extent refineries.

The "bottom of the barrel" fuel is a meme. It's all the same fuel. Additives and detergents get added (typically at the refinery or pipeline) while loading at either.

You work at a "Fuel Depot" as much as I'm a brain surgeon.

If you’re not using Ryobi you are overpaying for a power tool line that will never have standardized batteries.

>>1700498

>>1700498
Continuation

>>1700498
Cordless circular saw is the way to go for plywood work.

>>1700498
I’ve been using these 5 drills for the past 3 years and I have no complaints. I picked up a Ryobi impact driver for framework and I’m super impressed

Here’s my one main piece of non Ryobi equipment. For corded tools I don’t mind using a non Ryobi.

>>1699579
Unlike Rigid and most of my tools are Rigid, but that handbag is absolute garbage!
As loud as a jet engine and can barely pick up sand. Ok for draining water but get a drill or sump in that case...

>>1700518
Yeah it looks like an old model, they need to release an updated kit with a smaller vac and blower and sell it for a reasonable price and then I’ll grab it.

>>1699731
Fuck off shillti

>>1700541
ive heard that Ridgid one is pretty shit too, cordless vacuums seem to be a little hit and miss, i have an M12 vacuum that is good for small jobs but leaves me wanting when picking up anything larger than sawdust.

>>1700553
I have the big shop vac anyway, but I would be down with a little 18V guy to clean off the workbench and get in tight spots in the car, that’s about it.

>>1700550
They have been advertising their 12v tools for like $90 these days, but I hear they’re crappy unless you buy the $500+ tools.

>>1700453
Its a corrupt state, lots of bribery. I do, I load barges at a depot. No its not a meme, not everything is equal. Some batches barely meet minimum standards.

>>1699529
Where can you find that wagon? It's not listed on home depot?

>>1700583
no idea, ive been trying to find it for a while.

Im about to start my apprenticeship with an electrician, should i just go with hilti or buy the (insert favorite color here) brand?

New ryobi grinder, had been used for less than a half hour

>>1700698

>>1700700
I took it back and exchanged for another one, newer one lasted 20 minutes from the time i took out of the box until it quit

/rant

>>1700550
>t. Angry black and decker user

>>1700706
I don’t believe you. I have one at work and one at home and they both run great. Did you happen to hold the button for 30 minutes straight? That might be your problem

>>1700698
>Ryobi corded grinder

should have gone for a throwaway brand like Hercules or just such it up and spend a little more for a dewalt or Makita that will last forever.

>>1700728
Probably 10 minutes straight, but its made to grind right? Should grind all fucking day

>>1700739
It was a throwaway, it went in the dumpster when it quit smoking, i replaced it with the dewalt midrange grinder, which is still running fine

>>1700680
Go union so you don't have to supply your own power tools.

>>1700744
>making less money for the same amount of work
No thank you

>>1700752
>making more money plus pension and benefits
ftfy

>>1698031
A battery powered rachet is tits.

>>1700728
>30 minutes straight
It should work and grind for as long as the operator needs it to, under reasonable load. Ryobi is shit for anything other than homeowners and maybe even handymen. I saw a finish carpenter on site with a ryobi miter saw and I just shook my head.

>>1698031
Post tits.

>>1700807
Ryobi miter saws are great

>>1700807
It’s a battery powered tool. Why would you expect it to run 30 seconds continuously. If your line of work requires you to grind stuff for long periods of time then a corded grinder from one of the big names is what you want young pleb

>>1700819
>young pleb
Is that like a tard that can't follow the thread?

>battery tool
>30 seconds
They were CORDED grinders, brand new, and absolutely should have lasted more than 30 MINUTES

>>1700829
You’re making it up. You didn’t have 2 brand new grinders fail on the first day. How did you manage to send the grinder back to Ryobi for refurbishment and get it back the same day?

>>1700840
I exchanged them at the store i purchased them from

>>1700852
You went there with your girlfriend too right?

>>1700852
No im not bepis lmao

>>1700706
Didn’t happen

>>1700739
Has anybody here actually used the Hercules tools? Everything they sell is compared to a much better DeWalt claiming “80% Off!””, but only costs $10 less than the comparable DeWalt, only comes with one battery instead of 2 like the DeWalt, and has a dogshit 90-day warranty compared to 3-5 years on the brand name tools.

It’s beyond me. They finally released a 6-1/2” circ saw and brushed sawzall and they cost $100 for the tool only.

Also Hercules batteries just got more expensive. They used to sell a 2.0 for $25, and a 4.0 for $50, but looks like they got rid of the 2.0 and replaced it with a 2.5 for $35 (and coupons never work on Hercules). You can get 2x 2.0 DeWalt packs with 3yr warranty on sale for $70-$80 a lot of times.

>>1700853
See >>1700856

He’s not Bepis. No fine ass Latina to buy him tools.

>>1700863
It did actually ):

>>1700864
I have the hercules impact, its fine, the charger died tho so its useless now

>>1700840
>>1700853
so stupid I don't have any words

>>1700871
>90 Day Warranty
If you have any DeWalt tools-chargers-batteries, you could rig something up I bet to try and get some use out of it.

Or go buy the US-made DeWalt impact kit on sale for $100 with a charger and a couple of 2.0Ah batteries and a 3 year warranty, then toss a resistor in the Hercules battery and use it on the DeWalt tools.

>>1700706
Things that never happened.

>>1700706
And then my dewalt clapped.

>>1698027
>>1699410
>>1699423
I just bought pic related, thing is a fucking BEAST. Cuts thru schedule 40 and unistrut faster than anything else. Kinda heavy though and the safety, like on all Milwaukee tools, sucks ass.

>>1698167
>That’s the exact reason why they won’t be selling a Ryobi or Ridgid bandsaw any time soon
https://toolguyd.com/ryobi-cordless-band-saw-p590-102019/
Namefags well and truly are retarded.

>>1702301
B b b but i posted a picture of my Ryobi grinder that broke after 20 minutes. Twice

>>1698248
>>1698227
Go back to /o/ retard truckerfag what kind of dumbshit prunes trees with a sawzall jesus christ get a decent pruning saw or pole trimmer

>>1698882
heh heh

>>1702301
>article from 6 days after the post was made
gg

How2 get push notifications from ToolBois like you?

>>1702564
It’s fun. They make pruning blades for sawzalls for a reason. And I have a pole saw, although I keep eyeing the electric pole chainsaw because my landscaper is a lazy drunk and this one hardwood tree in my front yard hanging over the street is a fucking cunt to get with the regular pole saw.

>>1702564
there was some guy on here that had to hike up into the mountains to clear out trails after big storms. instead of lugging around a big chainsaw and gas he had an M18 Fuel Hackzall and a couple 5.0ah batteries to limb up branches and clear pathways. there are plenty of good pruning blades for sawzalls now that work just as well as a pruny saw with way less work.

>>1702818
I memby that guy. He was out in the middle of fucking nowhere with that thing.

>>1698790
Seconding, bought it off sale and its still worth it. I do network installs where we drill and mount shit left and right. It gets thrown around, used as a hammer and borrowed by retards and after a year all thats changed is I cant read the labels from all the paint and scratches.

>>1702998
if you do a lot of indoor work get the M12 Surge driver, you will never want to touch a regular impact again.

>>1702998
The back end of it makes a good light duty hammer. Been thinking of mounting a steel plate to it so I can hit it harder without fucking up the bearing housing.

I'm digging all these battery power tools but

>Battery drop saw
>Battery table saw

Nah bro ill have the corded versions of those thanks.

Can't wait until my tool manufacturer releases a new brand and makes my stack of batteries redundant.

>>1703033
>makita

>>1703033
>redundant
I think obsolete is the word you're looking for

>>1700558
>I load barges at a depot
How could you know anything about the quality of the fuel? Protip: Its all the same stuff until it hits the distribution terminal.

>>1703035
Unless he is talking about Makita, pic related >>1703034

>>1703029
Some of the miter saws take both, right? I thought the DeWalt Flexvolt was like that.

Who is going to be the first to release an inverter? Slide in 4x 18V packs and get 120V 15A out. There’s already some lithium banks that look like a cooler and can replace a small generator.

>>1703042
Would be pretty easy to rig something like that up yourself

>Buy inverter
>3d print a few battery holders
>Add pins for batteries, wires and a voltage transformer

>>1703046
>voids battery warranty
But seriously, there’s so many cool things they could build off of those 18V packs. Every brand has a USB charger, Makita’s coffee maker, M12-M18 and Ryobi tire inflators, 18V air compressors, a million different lighting options.

The impact wrenches and tire inflators are becoming really popular for people who drive a lot (especially if they tow) and I think there is a demand for other portable/emergency vehicle tools that you could run off a battery pack that has been in the glove box for 6 months. They could totally make a jumper pack connection, I would buy one of those. Pic related, both lithium packs around 70Wh, and I’m sure the orange one would be capable of boosting a dead battery on a 6cyl car.

>>1703042
dont forget about their new 40v lineup

>>1703042
Dewalt has had one for at least 3 years, Ego has one in their 56v line and Ryobi has 2 different 40v inverters. Milwaukee has patents documents for one as part of their packout system.

>>1703088
Makita?

I know Makita has the 36V, but that’s just two 18V batteries. Ridgid did the same thing with their 7in grinder. It’s sweet, but stupid at the same time. I like how Milwaukee is doing lot of big stuff off a single H.O. M18 battery pack.

>>1703089
Where is the DeWalt one? Don’t see it on Home Depot’s website.

Pic related is cool, until you realize it’s $1700 and uses 4 batteries that cost like $200ea. One bad cell in one of those expensive batteries and the whole thing is bricked for the normie who isn’t willinf to replace it.

I guess it would be worth it to some pros though if they really can’t get away with a little gas powered Honda generator anywhere on the site. 4x 5.0Ah packs @56V, so maybe an hour at half load with that inverter (assuming the batteries are brand new).

>>1703089
Milwaukee still has some oddball stuff up their sleeves, there are patent documents showing a portable power station with an onboard 12v car battery and what looks to be the option to daisy chain 6-8 M18 batteries together to act as a power source as well.

>>1703103
There is also an interesting propane powered M18 6 port charger.

>>1703089
>>1703101
Pic related is neat though, that makes more sense. $250 for the inverter plus a 5.0Ah battery, that’s a good piece of camping equipment or for hurricane prep. I don’t see why they can’t make the same thing for more 18V systems, if that inverter will run off a 2.0Ah 40V battery, what’s the problem selling the same thing that will run off a 4.0Ah+ 18V pack?

>>1703101
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-1800-Watt-Portable-Power-Station-and-20-Volt-60-Volt-MAX-Lithium-Ion-Battery-Charger-DCB1800B/207164383

>>1703104
Is that just a 1lb propane cylinder? Now that’s pretty cool. I wonder how many charges you would get from it.

>>1703105
Ryobi makes an 18v One+ inverter too.

>>1703109
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-150-Watt-Powered-Inverter-Generator-for-18-Volt-Battery-RYi150BG/308460871

>>1703101
New 40v tool line.

>>1703106
Oh shit I thought that was just a 4-port charger. 4 batteries, but that thing will put out some juice at least.

>>1703109
I just saw that, now I would think about grabbing one of those if I had Ryobi stuff. 150W and only $79, that would be great to have for storm season. Charge up a couple battery packs when the generator is running and you could at least keep a fan going overnight.

>>1703110
Yeah this one, that’s a great product. I like this.

>>1703111
Fuck, I bet those tools are beasts, but I’m not touching that unless the company is paying for it.

Is there any compatibility like the FlexVolt?

>>1703114
It does both, plug it into the wall and it's a 4 port charger, plug the cord in the other way and it's a power source. Runs at 15amps and can power heavier duty tools like jackhammers.

>>1703111
>40v

What a blatant cash grab, modern 18v tools are extremely powerful and way more than sufficient for the tasks they need to do.

>What do you mean you don't need a 40v drill

>>1703117
I saw that, it’s 1600W and over 3000W peak, that thing will power anything a regular 15A house circuit would handle. Nice setup with that tote system, shit is like the F-350 King Ranch of tool boxes.

>>1703119
+1 on this. I sort of see the appeal of DeWalt’s 60V, but other brands are getting the same thing out of 18V packs. Milwaukee has probably done the most with it, their 18V chainsaw keeps up with 40V+ from other brands. And Ridgid did the Octane thing with extra battery contacts for the high demand tools.

If Milwaukee can put out a 9” angle grinder that runs off an 18V pack, there is no use for a separate 40V line with the current battery tech. Either run it off AC power or gasoline, or at least jump to the big ass 56V batteries... but that still sucks when only one tool runs off that $200 battery (and you need at least 2 packs because one is charging) and your other dozen tools from the 1/4” hex driver to the full size circ saw all take the same 18V pack.

what brands do yall recommend for heavy industry? i use dewalt corded grinders but im going to be looking into getting some cordless drills/impacts as well as some cordless grinders for quick jobs where i dont want to drag over a generator and extension cord for 5min of work and tool rooms on construction sites are always a joke. I've heard that if you want great quality go look at what brands rental places stock as they have to withstand a fuck load of abuse.
pic unrelated.

>>1703152
Depends what exactly you’re doing. DeWalt-Makita-Milwaukee are all solid all around brands if you’re looking for drills and sawzalls and basic shit. There are some better brands for certain specialty tools, but those brands are the Big 3 jobsite tool brands in the US.

I’m a big fan of Milwaukee because they seem to have the most innovative tool lineup, especially when it comes to mechanic’s tools and 12V stuff, but the other two brands aren’t very far behind them. Also Milwaukee has a 5 year warranty on their tools compared to 3yrs on Makita and DeWalt.

Pic related is just the 12V stuff from Milwaukee, game changer when it comes to working in tight spots and tech work when you’re not driving big ass lag bolts all day long, and the chargers will take 12V and 18V batteries.

>>1703152
>>1703225
For what you’re describing, I would definitely keep the M12 in mind considering you can often get free tool deals on them too. The little impacts are real ballsy and the 12v hackzall is great for a couple cuts.

DeWalt and Makita both have 12V lineups as well but not nearly as extensive. However if you go with DeWalt or Makita, DeWalt has the Atomic and Makita the black Sub-Compact 18V tools which are nearly the size of the 12V tools, but run off the same 18V batteries as the larger tools and have brushless motors that keep them compact while having tons of power. And then if you want to grab a 7-1/4” circular saw, all of the batteries are interchangeable.

The good 12v tools and the compact 18v are great for the tech fields where you are running around fixing and maintaining stuff rather than running the tools all day with heavy duty assembly and demo.

Pic related shows the size comparison for Makita’s full size 18v and the sub-compact 18v.

>>1703129
The FlexVolt batteries are backwards compatible with all the 20V tools except the few with a battery enclosure too small to fit them, so the compatibility issue isn't much worse than the other brands' new high-performance battery upgrades.

>>1703236
I know the Flexvolts work on the 20V Max tools. I was curious about the Makita 40V. It would be a bit more worthwhile if you needed the 40V 7” angle grinder and could still use that battery on your 18V sawzall.

Makita is the most confusing with battery tech IMO. They have the 36V tools (2x 18V) and now they’re releasing 40V stuff, plus they have the whole yellow top-star battery thing so your new saw won’t even run with the older 18V battery, rather than just running with slightly less power like every other brand.

Makita always seemed like the brand with extra attention to detail, but they lack foresight when it comes to the battery situation. Or they don’t give a fuck if they make their customers spend an unnecessary $300 on batteries every couple years because most Makita users are fanbois who won’t touch anything else.

>>1703242
Makita also has an older 36v battery system before the 18x2 but they only made a handful of tools in that lineup and they were quite heavy compared to their modern 40v batteries.

IMO Makita is a very conservative tool brand compared to someone like Milwaukee, they would prefer to release tools with less power but will last a whole lot longer than some high power M18 Fuel tool.

>>1700968
i already have a dewalt set, i just bought the hercules to see what it was like. the hercules batteries work in the dewalt radio that i have and the usb charger adapter thing

>>1704309
>works in the radio and USB adapter
Neato, I bet it would work in some of the lights too. The radio must not have a battery temp pin on it because it’s not demanding enough to ever overheat the pack,

That’s the only difference between the two batteries, they both have a resistive temp sensor thing but one brand measures the resistance between the T pin and + pin, and the other brand measures it between the T and - pins. So the hack is to find a resistor of the proper value and solder it between the tabs on the battery and the Hercules batteries will work in all of the DeWalt tools.

>>1703281
Milwaukee had the 28V as well, but 18V Fuel replaced it.

And what you say about Makita is sort of disproven when you think about the shit battery compatibility with the yellow tabs and stars and 36V with two packs and a new 40V with one pack.

Just picked up this little guy

Hilti master race checking in, I picked this up off of ebay for $250, this fucker is a goddamn beast.

Bought this for $200 after my Milwaukee sawzall's crankcase had a crack in it and finally shart the bed, lol everyone loves using muh Hilti sawzall at work, the best part is it has a variable speed dial on it so you can lock in the exact rpm you want for cutting metal at slow speed or wood at higher rpm. It ain't no joke.

>>1700503
Just bought a cordless one to go with my 18v dewalts

>>1700864
Hercules is trash

"pay dewalt on sale prices for Drillmaster quality" nope.exe

Chicago Electric Pro is good

Central Machinery is better (particularly their A/C induction motor tools like the lathes and the drill presses)

>>1703042
>Who is going to be the first to release an inverter?

as usual, Ryobi's got your back

>>1703119
>What a blatant cash grab
not a cash grab, pack voltage is mostly an engineering tradeoff

to improve power (watts) you can raise voltage or raise amperage

more amps generate more heat causeing shorter duty cycle and if self protection is not part of the design, risk of premature failure due to exceeding said duty cycle

more volts cause dielectric breakdown of the insulation leading to shorter overall service life but more capable of running 100% duty cycle without needing large and loud cooling

>>1704883
gonna go bust some nuts?

>>1705436
Yessir. Bought it for undoing hard to reach bolts on my project car and to throw in the back of my daily driver on road trips in the unfortunate event of a flat. Plus, I mean, look how cute it is.

>>1700503
It’s 2019, you can go cordless for more than that. Brushless + big battery packs finally made it worth getting a 7-1/4” cordless saw.

>>1705425
Meh, it’s better than Drillmaster. But you’re paying sale prices on mid-level DeWalt tools but getting tools on par with base level DeWalt but without the warranty and support and peace of mind you get with a decent brand.

I was starting to think Bauer was looking like a pretty good choice for homeowner tools because it’s not a big deal if you burn up a $50 drill, but then started looking at Ryobi and realized the prices are almost the same, you can get more for the money with Ryobi sales, and Ryobi’s lineup is 10x better with some better brushless tools if you want a cheap leaf blower and a good brushless hammer drill on the same battery platform. Also Ryobi has a warranty that is 12x as long and you might be able to repair a Ryobi after that while the HF tool is a brick outside of warranty because you won’t find schematics and part numbers to order replacements on the Bauer or Hercules.

>>1705430
I saw that. Ryobi is the based DIY brand for people who don’t need Milwaukee or other contractor grade stuff.

>>1705620
Is it a 3/8”?

Might not be the greatest for lug nuts, but could speed up a tire change if your lug nuts are properly torqued. Also 4.0 or 6.0Ah battery might give it that little extra it needs for lugs.

>Be heavy tow truck operator
>Company decides to try out cordless tools 2 years ago
>Never looked back since

Cordless tools are the shit. A week ago I walked down in to a ditch with a bag of cordless tools and
>Removed a bunch of bolts with an impact wrench
>Cut a steel exhaust stack off with a grinder
>Cut down 2 smaller trees with a chainsaw
>All with a battery powered light for me to see with

Without them I would have had to pull about 250ft of airline in to the ditch with me with zero air pressure at the trigger, and trudge a 2 stroke chainsaw down with me after.

And these cordless impact wrenches are no joke either. Mine with a fully charged battery can pull a trucks lugnut torqued to 500ft-lbs and more. The only air impact we have that gives it a run for its money is our big 1 inch in the shop, and it gets about 180psi at the trigger if the shops air compressor tank is full.

>>1705644
>Is it a 3/8”?
>Might not be the greatest for lug nuts, but could speed up a tire change if your lug nuts are properly torqued. Also 4.0 or 6.0Ah battery might give it that little extra it needs for lugs.

It is the 3/8”, yes. Bought it mostly because 3/8” sockets seem to be quite a bit cheaper than 1/2” sockets and I figured anything bigger than a 19 or 20mm this would probably have a hard time with anyway. For now I tried it out with a compact step up adapter and some cheapo tekton deep impact sockets to see if it would break my lugs torqued to 103 ft-lbs loose. It took the wrench a little bit more effort than I was expecting based on how well it does in youtube videos, but maybe that comes down to the adapter and cheap cr-v socket I was using. For now all I’ve got are the 3.0 Ah CP batteries but I might grab some of the XC batteries on Black Friday.

>>1698027
just cut it off

>>1705755
Just remember when you start putting adapters and extensions on impact wrenches, you’re going to lose torque real fast. So if you need power out of it, run a straight 3/8” drive socket if possible. That’s just the nature of impact tools.

I do car work so impacts will be my main tool. stuck suspension bolts are my most common enemy. What system has the best options for my application? Looking for something Li-ion obviously.

>>1698883

>These new brushless motors are sweet, and it’s impressive when a 1/4” hex driver can remove lugnuts, but it’s also way too fucking powerful for most things you want a 1/4” impact for

Our brushed impact driver drives screws better than the brushless because the brushless break away force on he springs is too heavy, stripping ph2 screws too easily and even cams on out PH3 occasionally.

Brushed one just fucking slaps it in/out

>>1705898
I mentioned this before. Even on lower speed settings, the spring and anvil-hammer are too strong on some of these newest 18V 1/4” impact drivers for medium-small screws. My Ridgid Gen5x is rated at like 175ft-lbs and will remove lugnuts, ans the newest Octane is rated at 200ft-lbs, but at least that one has some extra settings to try and prevent you from totally fucking every PH2 screw.

That’s why I shill for the 12v tools. I think the new sub-compact 18v tools like the DeWalt Atomic might be a good option for people like you if you don’t want a second battery platform.

>>1705850
Yeah I’ve heard that before. I’ve also heard cro-moly sockets/ accessories rob less torque than cr-v sockets. Any idea if that’s true?

>>1703152
If you're a metal worker the only answer is metabo. Best dust ejection system

>>1705655
I still feel like a normal stihl would be just fine, as long as you have fuel. But its the same kind of thing with batteries, you have to have enough and they have to be fully charged and not stored in a cold truck overnight

>>1706009
>have to be fully charged
That’s the biggest difference with lithium though. You can toss a couple batteries in the back of the truck and not touch them for 3 months and they will still have 85% charge left when you need to use them.

>>1705955
Meh, I’m not sure how much of a difference the socket material will make a difference. There is probably something with the material and mass, I know they sell these special crank bolt sockets that have a ton of steel in them so they actually hit harder with the extra mass. I believe it’s also about the heat treating of the metal. Regular chrome sockets for hand tools are typically harder metal but this makes them more brittle, which is why you don’t want to use them on impact wrenches. Impact sockets are softer metal but often thicker material to make up for it.

1/4” hex and 1/4”-3/8” square impacts should work fine with chrome sockets, but I wouldn’t ever guarantee it. I got a set of 3/8” impact sockets when I got that powerful brushless 1/4” hex driver after seeing it chew into the shanks of cheap adapter bits. I bet regular chrome u-joints would get torn up by a 3/8” impact wrench with some power, I know the cheap black colored u-joints always have terrible reviews on impacts.

>>1705955
>>1706017
If you want a 3/8” impact socket set, keep an eye on pic related. I ended up catching a Black Friday sale where it went down to $55 and it’s so nice for that money. Even at close to $100, it’s a good set. Tekton and Sunex have decent prices on socket sets too, but the GW set has some nice little touches.

>>1700498
>>1700499
>>1700502
>>1700503
>>1700505
>>1700506
>>1700698
>>1700700
Just bought ryobi 18v drill impact included with 6-piece set. Can I get some recommendations for drill bits? Also some bits for making holes. Tia

>>1706069
Any of the big power tool brands make nice bits. Ryobi bits are kinda cheap so you’re probably better off spending the extra $10 on Bosch-DeWalt-Milwaukee-Makita.

I like the DeWalt drill bits a lot for wood. Plus you can always find big DeWalt sets on sale and their driver bits aren’t bad.

I think I prefer the Milwaukee Shockwave driver bits though, they’re a little pricey but work well. Love that small set with the couple drill bits and found it on sale at HD for like $10.

>>1706069
I have an index of cle-line HSS bits that has served me well. I’ve never used Cobalt bits but the old timers I work with say they’re not really worth it.

>>1706080
I don’t think cobalt is even worth it in hand drills. Some people say you need them for drilling stainless, but that doesn’t happen too often for weekend warriors. If you can’t make it through metal with good HSS bits, you will destroy expensive cobalt bits real quick in a cordless drill-driver.

I want to get me some left handed cobalt bits for removing busted bolts and/or taps because I’m a dumbass.

>>1706073
>>1706080
Is it generally recommended to keep them shorter? Will any brand/diameter work or are there specifics. As you can see I am new to tools

>>1706073
>I like the DeWalt drill bits a lot for wood
I prefer Irwins for wood, especially larger holes. Spade bits, speedbors, and forstners. For smaller holes I use a cheap set of bradpoints that's lasted fifteen years so far. The DeWalt 135 degree split points are are economical and work great on metal, even stainless steel.

>>1706084
>I don’t think cobalt is even worth it in hand drills.
Depends on how steady you are. They resist dulling from wear/heat significantly longer than regular HSS in difficult materials like stainless, alloy steel, or anything heat treated, but if they're getting chewed up from unsteady angles/feeds, that doesn't come into play.

It's a money pit I've found my set from a drug addict, he knicked it from some construction site I've bargained down to 400 pounds for a bunch of Hilti drills, saws and other carpentry shit

>>1706105
Just remember the difference between drill bits and driver bits when you’re talking about this stuff.

Drill bits are for making holes. Driver bits are the +, -, and * bits for driving screws into the holes.

Most drill bits you see at the big box stores will be standard jobber length. You can get shorter or longer ones for special purposes, but there isn’t really a need. For driver bits, it’s nice to have an assortment with a couple longer ~3” bits for reaching screws recessed in holes.

Drill bits, just get whatever 14pc-21pc set from 1/16” up to 1/2”, the gold colored ones you see are Titanium Nitride coated (or whatever) and hold up well. Read the packaging, some like the DeWalt Pilot Point or brad point (spur point in pic related) are real nice in wood and softer materials since they allow you to center them easily, but not really made for metal. The split point bits, like 135deg I think, are good for pretty much everything except masonry like concrete and brick. Masonry bits are made to be used with hammer drills, not sure if yours has that function,

For larger holes in wood and soft materials, there are spade bits, hole saws, big auger bits, etc. I’m sure there are good guides online too, AvE has a quick goofy drill bit guide on Youtube that will learn you up on them a bit.

Also look at the specs for the drill you got, most full size 18V cordless drills have a 1/2” chuck and will fit pretty much all the bits you would find at Home Depot, but some compact drills have a 3/8” chuck and won’t take drill bits >3/8” unless they have a reduced shank size.

And then your impact driver is the 1/4” hex chuck thing, so that will hold any driver bit with that standard size. Some drill bits have the 1/4” hex shank to fit in the impact driver, but I wouldn’t recommend it for that. The drill is for making holes with drill bits, and the impact driver is for screwing screws and bolts into the holes.

>>1706105
Something like pic related would be a good kit for you. This one is $35 on Amazon.

There is also a 100pc DeWalt set that Lowe’s and Home Depot sell, it’s like 4 individual boxes, one with drill bits and three with assorted driver bits. It normally retails for $50, but you will see it on sale for $25 a lot. That’s a good buy at $25 because you will be set on driver bits for years to come. Don’t buy it for $50 though, only because it will be too many PH2 bits.

>>1706234
>For driver bits, it’s nice to have an assortment with a couple longer ~3” bits for reaching screws recessed in holes.
In addition to what this anon said, I would recommend getting a bit extension (they often come in driver kits, so you may not need a separate purchase) to give extra reach when needed, a flex shaft to get into awkward areas (particularly fasteners very close to a wall or other projecting obstacle), and a right angle attachment to get into areas without much head room. They aren't needed very often, but they can make things a lot easier when those circumstances come up.

>>1706252
To add on to this anon...

Buy one from a good brand with shit like that. I bought a 6” bit extension from HF for a dollar or two and the magnet it absolute shit and the bits fall out. I could’ve spent $2 more and gotten a Milwaukee that works perfectly.

Milwaukee is god tier.
>makita
>dewalt
>bosch
>Rigid
>Hitachi
>ryobi
In that order.
T. used them all, broken them all, except Milwaukee .