/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1612931
Li-Ion is a gamechanger, the smaller tools are so much worthwhile. I reach for the 12v impact driver over a screwdriver 90% of the time when I’m building or taking apart random things.

I need to get some long bit drivers, like 3”-6” to get in recessed holes, but Wiha is the only brand that sells worthwhile ones that don’t have a 1/4” shank all the way to the tip of a PH#0 driver, and they don’t seem to sell a comprehensive set, but rather a bunch of 3pc to 5pc sets at ~$15ea. I would rather spend $50-$75 on a set in a case.

Master race coming thru

>>1612948
>works great with Pride(tm) sockets from Harbor Freight
They have the M12 drill and impact set on sale for $99 right now, that’s such a steal. And before they had it for $149 w/ a free tool, or drill, impact, and hackzall with free tool for $199.

I’ll take my lifetime service agreement though.

>>1612943
>Li-Ion is a gamechanger, the smaller tools are so much worthwhile. I reach for the 12v impact driver over a screwdriver 90% of the time when I’m building or taking apart random things.
Agree. I use my Makita 12V li-ion drill pretty often, much more often, than mains 600W Bosch drill.
And now I use Bosch Go thingy more often, than Makita, since in 80% of cases I don't need all 20 n-m of Makita. What is really cool, is that now I can do shit faster, since I have no need to swap drill bit for driving bit.
Modern 18650s are fucking magic. 1 cell can turn thing with 300 rpm (slighly lower than low gear on drills) and have 5 n-m torque, which is pretty good.

Btw, why they don't make smaller mains drills? I would absolutely love having something like this Bosch Go, but powered from mains or at least from laptop-sized powerbrick.

Btw, where do you use fucking Robinson bits outside of canada?

>>1612952
Bro I rep those sockets with PRIDE every day, you wont catch me without that gay shit
Last time I touched my impact driver was like 2 years ago, impact wrench on the other hand, every damn day.
Those 2nd gen m12 drills are great I never use my m18 drill.
Here's a set I just picked up for 130, already had all this stuff just got it for my bf as a gift

>>1612959
I barely use the 18V drill or impact driver either unless I need to drill though the masonry exterior walls on my house.

It’s funny because with Li-Ion and brushless tech, the 12V drill and impact driver have pretty much replaced the 18V ones, the 18V brushless 1/4” hex driver takes the place of a 3/8” impact wrench since it will easily doo >100ft-lbs, and the 18V 1/2” impacts have taken over air tool.

You should try out a mid-torque 1/2” fuel when you have the itch for another tool purchase. You might find that you don’t need to try and maneuver the big one around other BS 90% of the time because the light mid torques will do lug nuts and other common stuff no problem.

>>1612956
>smaller mains drills
It’s like that impact wrench I just got rid of, the companies don’t want to sell you the best tech in a power tool unless they can sell you on the batteries too. Once you’re $200+ into the batteries, there’s a much higher chance you will buy more tools from them.

>Makita 12V
That drill and impact set is on sale for $99 as well. I will keep shilling the M12 stuff though because they’re the only company with a good 12V lineup

>>1612956
That Bosch 12V with the interchangeable tips looks like a neat tool too. They have that offset screwdriver attachment which is neat if you need to drive screws in corners.

Also I’m super tempted to take apart these new Octane batteries but I don’t want to void a warranty. They’re larger than the 18650 packs so I assumed they were larger cells, but then reading online somebody said the 6.0 and 9.0 have 18650s.

I think the 3.0Ah has larger cells because they couldn’t get the current draw from one row of 3000mAh 18650s. But then they say the 6.0 uses 10 and 9.0 is 15x 3000mAh 18650s, but each row is offset a little bit and spaced farther apart for better cooling and they can get the current from the paralleled cells no problem. Makes sense because the 6.0Ah Octane pack felt about the same weight as the 4.0Ah pack, it would be noticeable heavier with larger cells.

I think the same reason is why the smaller M12 batteries are only 1.5Ah, any larger cells could never put out the power for the Hackzall and Fuel tools.

>>1612973
>unless they can sell you on the batteries too. Once you’re $200+ into the batteries, there’s a much higher chance you will buy more tools from them.
I have never seen anybody buying OEM batteries for power tools. People either replace cells, either buy chinkshit.
Except Ryobi.
In case of Bosch Go, replacing the cell is the only option, so they have no ability to sell the tool, they expect tool to fail and you buy new one.
>That drill and impact set is on sale for $99 as well.
Shit. I got mine drill only like for $150. Keep in mind that in my shithole stuff is slighly more expensive.
>>1612979
>That Bosch 12V with the interchangeable tips looks like a neat tool too.
It seems like gimmick to me. But you know, I thought that Bosch screwdriver is a gimmick too, but I ended up using it quite often.
>They have that offset screwdriver attachment which is neat if you need to drive screws in corners.
Agree, that would be nice to have, especially when furniture niggers put screws in corners for no reason.

Btw, I have noticed that Bosch tries to make all sorts of gimmicky tools, like micro chain saw, or this Bosch Go, while Makita kinda makes shit that exists forever.
>I think the 3.0Ah has larger cells because they couldn’t get the current draw from one row of 3000mAh 18650s.
They could have installed 5?S2P of 1.5 A-h cells, which are dirt cheap and are quite common.
> But then they say the 6.0 uses 10 and 9.0 is 15x 3000mAh 18650s,
Do 6.0 and 3.0 packs have same dimensions?

>>1612997
Bosch owns Dremel, why are you surprised at the gimmicks?

>>1612997
>I have never seen anybody buying OEM batteries for power tools
Who the fuck do you hang out with? I don’t think I have ever seen anybody in the trade with knockoff chink batteries.

And the 3.0 is definitely a 5-cell battery, the 6.0 is 10, the 9.0 is 15. I could easily open it up to see them but they’re brand new and warrantied. 3.0 is supposed to be larger cells because high capacity 18650s won’t put out the current for the high demand tools with only 5 cells. 6.0 and 9.0 both use 3000mAh 18650s because the paralleled cells will put out enough current, but they’re larger than other 10 cell and 15 cell packs because of the cell spacing for better cooling when run hard.

I wish I had a scale because the 3.0 is definitely heavier than other 5 cell 18650 packs because it has bigger cells, but the 6.0 is really close to the 4.0 because the cells are the same so the extra size is just air and a little bit of plastic.

>>1613005
Yes. Btw, this Bosch Go is sold under Dremel name in US, which kinda suggests that it is indeed a gimmick.
>>1613008
>Who the fuck do you hang out with? I don’t think I have ever seen anybody in the trade with knockoff chink batteries.
Things are different in third world shitholes, where people use low end tools in trade, since expensive might get stolen.
>pic
Yep, 3.0 uses some other cells for sure.

No, rly, is it unironically that difficult to make something like pic? I would buy this shit instantly.

>>1613019
Definitely possible, beefy laptop psu would probably work well.
But why??

>>1612997
>not buying name brand battery packs
That's the most retarded thing I've ever heard

>>1613015
Yeah but look at the packs, the 6.0 is way bigger than the 4.0, despite being 10x 18650s. The review I read said he assumed they were larger cells too, but they don’t have the weight of the big cells. It’s the spacing to keep the batteries cool when they work hard.

>third world shithole
I kinda figured that. The knockoffs are still like $30-$40, and you can find sales with like 2x 3.0 or 4.0 OEM packs for ~$100 for most brands anyway so it’s not even worth the risk unless you’re an alcoholic painter who hasn’t had a job in a few weeks and can’t get his Makita packs out of pawn.

I was looking at the chink knockoffs for the old NiCd DeWalts though. The usual stores want $120-$150 for a 2pk and I’m not willing to spend that on backup tools.

>>1613019
Just keep an extra battery pack in your pocket. And if you’re going to be tethered to the wall, that defeats the purpose of having a compact and lightweight tool.

I did wonder before about the possibility of having an adapter plug in the battery so you could use it while charging it like a phone or any other device where you don’t need to stop using the thing and take the battery out to charge it. But the current way you need 2 batteries at least, plus the tools pull quite a lot of amps so you would need a fairly thick cord on anything with balls.

>>1613019

Somewhat difficult, actually. Or expensive, rather. Battery-powered tools these days can pretty easily draw dozens of amps when loaded. That's a decent-sized power supply, with a price to match.

Not horribly expensive (certainly cheaper than the higher-capacity battery models), but not trivially inexpensive, either.

And, as already mentioned...why? The only use case I can come up with for this (and, yes, I did have the same idea way back when) was obviated by just buying another battery.

>>1613025
>But why??
Mains tools are heavier and less compact, than battery powered counterparts. This would fix it.
>>1613031
Everything boils down to price and availability. Some chink batteries are OK and pretty cheap. In some cases it is cheaper to get some quality cells from vape-shop.
>>1613032
>I kinda figured that. The knockoffs are still like $30-$40, and you can find sales with like 2x 3.0 or 4.0 OEM packs for ~$100 for most brands anyway so it’s not even worth the risk unless you’re an alcoholic painter who hasn’t had a job in a few weeks and can’t get his Makita packs out of pawn.
Thing is, Li-ion batteries live pretty long, so people get chink batteries as third battery for backup. In terms of safety, I'd say safe enough, since they have BMS and shit.
>And if you’re going to be tethered to the wall, that defeats the purpose of having a compact and lightweight tool.
Well, most cordless drills are more ergonomic, that mains stuff. So it worth having as option.
>I did wonder before about the possibility of having an adapter plug in the battery so you could use it while charging it like a phone or any other device where you don’t need to stop using the thing and take the battery out to charge it. But the current way you need 2 batteries at least, plus the tools pull quite a lot of amps so you would need a fairly thick cord on anything with balls.
Not really, you need whatever max current battery pack might supply + charging current (usually about 1-3A, depends on brand). For 30A you don't really need thick wires, especially considering the fact that this is short-time load.
>>1613035
Yes, it would be beefy PSU. I think it would be giant though.

>>1613019
Some german company does something like that. Micromark sells them in the US and Craftsman did a line of branding them at one point. System is aimed at hobbyists.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tysy_Y1SAdw
https://www.micromark.com/Micro-Make-MicroLux-High-Torque-1-4-Inch-Drill
https://www.micromark.com/The-High-Power-Transformer-4

>>1613079
That looks like something straight from 1980's...
All I want is to swap battery with SMPS.
In my case (Makita DW330) you would need 12V 30A power supply. That is only 360W, and you can fit that into gayming laptop power supply no problem.

>>1613385
A 12v 30A power supply is 20 bucks on amazon and seems to be for radios and such. This is /diy/, so go diy it.

>>1612958
Robby bit best bit

>>1612958
It was popular in several brands of premium decking screws in the 2000s. It seems to have been overtaken by torx.

>>1613447
>This is /diy/, so go diy it.
I will at some point. But I think I better make use of laptop SMPSes I find every day in the trash.
Btw, batteries (quality unknown) from china are like 2 for $30, so now I kinda know why thing like that doesn't exist.

>>1613536
You're not gonna find a 12V 30A power brick in the trash.

>>1613542
Some laptop chargers get close to that

>>1613542
True, but you can modify them to output 12V. You will need to rewind secondary (if you want to have full power) and adjust output feedback.
But in order to get 30A you would need like 5 bricks. Considering this, it is much better to find an ATX power supply (which I can't find in trash).

Just keep in mind, that making SMPS is easy, but mastering it is pretty hard, so enjoy poor efficiency in 50-80%

This new m18 9 inch ginder is an absolute monster, I bought it specifically to use the shrinking disc and it works fucking amazing

>>1613559
The power of an ATX PSU is divided among different voltage rails. One that has a single 12V voltage rail that can provide 30A is gonna be rare too (old mining rigs maybe?)

>>1613562
True. So you have to rewind it too, and probably do some fuckery with feedback. Or get more powerful one.
So, basically you would need only 12v rail.

>>1613561
What the fuck kind of disk is that?

>>1613578
It's a shrinking disc, one of the most amazing fucking tools every for metal finishing, it's unreal how well it works.
https://www.wolfesmetalfabrication.com/sdisc.html

>>1613585
Well I'll be. It's pretty rare you can show me a new tool.

Hey i got this Dremel 3000 here and the torque on it is pathetic, on the lowest RPM setting i get stop the spindle with two fingers. Also the RPM floats about wildly, usually getting faster with time despite whatever setting it's in. Is that normal? I feel cheated that i got a "brand name" thing instead of a chinese clone here...

>>1613624
I never owned real dremel, but chink ones have no torque at low RPM (or should I say low driving voltage, since all of them have triac regulators, which essentially regulate voltage), and due to vibration, they change speed on their own.

>>1612958
I use robinson all day doing residential electric. The screws themselves are a hybrid thing of flat head, Phillips and robinson, at least for outlets and switches. I know in some (all?) cases square tip only on the mains coming in and breaker box screws, ground/neutral bus screw terminals, etc., I believe a lot of panels have flat head combined screws.

>>1613646

Yeah that's exactly how this dremel behaves too and it's strange that nobody has mentioned it. I'm used to the electronic control on impact drills and angle grinders where if you set the trigger to a certain speed it stays there no matter what.

>>1613673
Is there a rotary tool that actually has torque at low speeds?

Only thing besides Dremel I ever see shilled is those benchtop ones with the little grey box and flexible shaft. They aren’t like prohibitively expensive either if it’s a tool you use a lot. Do those have torque at low RPMs?

>>1613701

Like i mentioned, the large corded impact drill i have has pretty good torque even at low RPM. Then again, it's 500W and has a mechanical gearbox... Maybe having that attached to a flexshaft like in your pic would match that kind of performance for fine work.

>>1613673
>I'm used to the electronic control on impact drills and angle grinders where if you set the trigger to a certain speed it stays there no matter what.
They just have more torque. Speed control is identical in many cases

Are those 12v sets really worth while for a home person.

havent got a drill driver set yet but I'm always tempted to go with the biggest baddest ones just because.

>>1614238
>Speed control is identical in many cases

It's not.

Speed control in cheap tools is done simply by modulating power open-loop style. Either through PWM or phase-angle control, the speed controller simply cuts back by a fixed amount on the effective voltage and/or current the motor gets, thereby reducing speed.

Speed control in good tools is done with feedback (closed-loop). There is a simple optical or magnetic encoder connected to the motor, and the controller uses this to determine speed. It can then make the necessary adjustments to the amount of power that the motor gets, giving the tool an almost perfectly constant speed, regardless of load.


Though, in practice, you're not entirely wrong. Not many tools have the latter, at least in my price range. Being a cheap fuck, I think the only tool I have that does this is a corded router. Which is weird, because it's an old, cheap, blue Ryobi, and about the last tool in my shop I would expect to have proper speed control.

>>1614301
Yes. The regular M12 is only $99 at Home Depot right now, they have a bunch of other tools for that line and they’re cheaper than the M18 tools, and you can find the M12 3.0 battery 2-packs for $99 right now.

Was searching for it and saw pic related, the M12 Fuel stuff is unbelievably powerful for the size and you get a bigger battery and a free tool of your choice with it for $199. I think the M12 Fuel set is a hammer drill too compared to the regular non-fuel one.

I use my Ridgid 12V drill and impact driver way more than the 18V stuff. I have the 12V tools on my workbench within reach and the 18V stuff put away in a drawer. They have more balls than the last gen 18V tools and even the small 2.0 battery barely gets charged because my homeowner projects are typically putting in a few drywall anchors or assembling furniture and it’s more than enough for that.

>>1614301
>>1614319
Pic related for you. It’s almost as powerful as the 18V Ryobi, and not even that far below the M18.

Other option would be the subcompact 18V tools, Makita had their line out for a long time and DeWalt just started releasing theirs. That way if you decide you need a big battery powered circ saw or something in the future, it’s all compatible.

If you’re buying your first set, or at least your first modern set, you should try out the 12v stuff. You will be amazed at the power coming from those little tools.

>>1612979
Milwaukee actually makes a version of their M12 drills with the multi-headed option but they only sell it in Yorup.

>>1614342
Bosch sells something similar here, but the Bosch 12v line isn’t as good. Milwaukee is the only company putting real effort into their 12v tools, I’m still kicking my ass for getting the Ridgid because the M12 went on sale a week or two later and I want the hackzall and ratchet, plus the Fuel impact driver is by far the best 12v impact.

Home depot is having a sale on Ryobi tools. Are these good for the price?

>>1615620
They’re not the best, but way better than you would expect for that money. All the bitching and moaning and nobody ever had horror stories about Ryobi. The 1.3 batteries won’t last more than a handful of cuts in the sawzall though if you’re working it hard.

Sometimes they have a brushless set with bigger batteries on sale for only a little more, still <$200.

>>1614301

I use a 12v impact all day long at work. I haven't taken my 18v impact or hammer drill out in a few weeks. Even in trades, start with 12v stuff and work up.

Which power tools should you get wired and which ones cordless?

>>1613701
>Only thing besides Dremel I ever see shilled is those benchtop ones with the little grey box and flexible shaft.
You've never seen Proxxon shilled?

>>1614301
The M12 line is excellent, and should be sufficient for most home DIY tasks. Other 12V tools can work all right for light use, but if you have experience with "real" tools you'll probably get annoyed with them. A good 18/20V line can offer more power and versatility if you need it. I do a lot of metalwork at home, so I went with the higher voltage, and that has given me easy access to various handy things like a battery string trimmer. It ultimately comes down to what you want to do, your budget, and preferences for things like MORE POWER vs compactness/weight.

>>1615750
For /diy/? Assuming you have money, all cordless barring things that need to be 1500W+, jackhammers and whatnot. And obviously you don't need a cordless miter saw and shit like that. Having a corded angle grinder in addition to a cordless one is not a bad idea though.

>>1615750
in a world of cordless SDS Max Rotary Hammers, Magnetic Drills and 1" impact wrenches the list of tools that you *should* buy corded is constantly shrinking.

however for regular DIY people there is no reason to spend a fortune on a fleet of brushless tools with enough lithium batteries to level your garage. the key advantage of cordless tools is portability, which isnt a big issue if you are spending a majority of your time in a stationary location like a shop ripping plywood. a cheap Ryobi circular saw with a cord will be lighter and just as powerful as a fancy Milwaukee cordless saw for half the price and you can run it all day without stopping.

I'm in desperate need of a new drill as my 20+ year old one has kicked the bucket. Was going to wait until father day deals to try to get a saw or whatever else they'll bundle with them though. Are there any brands I should avoid?

>>1614317
>Speed control in cheap tools is done simply by modulating power open-loop style. Either through PWM or phase-angle control, the speed controller simply cuts back by a fixed amount on the effective voltage and/or current the motor gets, thereby reducing speed.
It is used even in high-end tools though. It doesn't matter on tools with trigger-regulator like drills and drivers. And actually, this is better, since you have some control over torque like that, especially when ECU regulates current, not voltage.
Expensive angle grinders, routers and dremels don't have trigger-regulators, but rather wheel somewhere, so it makes sense to add closed-loop control, since you usually want constant RPM in those tools.But in cheap tools, you either have to regulation at all, or some sort of triac or PWM regulator.

>>1614301
Yes, many of them can deliver.

>>1615883
buy something from a proper power tool brand with a wide product line, not just the first cheap drill you come across at a department store. being able to expand your tool selection while sticking with the same batteries and chargers will make your life a lot easier in the future.

get something with lithium batteries, preferably with a brushless motor, and preferably in a combo kit with an impact driver. you might not have much experience impacts after just using a drill for the last 20 years but start using both of them and you will appreciate the difference in power you get from an impact driver and you'll understand which applications each is best suited for.

>>1615890
>brushless drill
If you get a good deal on it, sure, but brushless isn't worth paying extra for in a drill. The normal price of a brushless drill is like 50-100% more than a brushed 18V drill.

>>1615890
What counts as a proper power tool brand? Also do they even make new tools that are using Lithium batteries anymore?

>>1615902
What other kind of battery would they use? Lithium-Ion is the standard.
Proper brands are probably stuff like Makita, Dewalt, Milwaukee, Hilti.

>>1615902
Really cheap brands will still use NiCd (or NiMh?). The $19 drill and flashlight combo from HF is NiCd. The $30 drill is Li-Ion I believe.

>>1615883
DeWalt, Milwaukee, and Makita are all about the same. If it’s just homeowner stuff, go Ryobi. They had a nice brushless set on sale for Black Friday, I bet Father’s Day will bring some nice deals too. If you’re near Lowe’s, Porter Cable would be about the same as Ryobi.

Ridgid has a drill and 2 battery set on sale at Home Depot for $120 right now too. But if you’re in the market for more tools, wait for a good deal on a set. $400 will get you set up real nice with Milwaukee or DeWalt if you watch the sales.

>>1615892
Only thing is these days the brushed tools are often the lower power base versions while the brushless have more features. Look at Ryobi, one of them could make it on a jobsite while the other is definitely an occasional use tool. A Milwaukee or DeWalt brushed will typically be more than enough for anybody though.

>>1615883
>>1616141
Hmm actually the Ridgid was only $89 for the drill plus 2 batteries. $129 was drill and impact driver.

Pic related looks like an awesome deal too, brushless Milwaukee... one of the batteries is a big one if you’re running it hard, plus it’s a hammer drill. Pay attention to that because there’s a price difference and something might seem like a steal until the day comes where you need to drill into concrete and realize your basic drill is worthless.

Also Milwaukee has a 5-year warranty. DeWalt and Makita and the others all have 3 years. Ridgid has the “Lifetime Service Agreement” provided you register it properly when you first get it, that’s what sold me on their tools as a DIY guy because I would be pissed if my expensive drill died in 3.5yrs of limited use when it’s supposed to be contractor grade.

>>1616147
>not fuel
Uhhh no, ew

>>1616147
You like Craftsman drills? You know they go to the same OEM as Home Depot does for their Ridgid stuff (TTi)? You know that the drills each sell at the same price point are the same internally? Did you know that, if HD were ever to go to shit the way Sears has, you would be in the same boat as people with Craftsman tools are now?

Don't buy brands that are tied to stores. In this day and age, they are guaranteed to just be someone else's junk with a shell change. You might as well buy the original in this case, which is Ryobi or Milwaukee or AEG, which are TTi's owned brands. TTi isn't going to re-engineer their tools to suit what Home Depot wants. They just take whatever they have that is at the same price point Home Depot wants and change the shell. If you do the name game chasing a deal you could end up like all those dopes that bought tools from Sears, Wards, or JC Penney back in the day.

>>1616234
Anon replacing his 20 year old drill isn’t going to notice the difference between the Fuel hammer drill and the brushless.

>>1616249
So much stuff wrong with this.

Sears is still alive, Craftsman is still alive, hell Craftsman is bigger now than it has been in the past 20 years. Ridgid (the company) isn’t going anywhere.

Plus they’re power tools. If they shit the bed in 20 years when Home Depot somehow goes under, I will gladly upgrade to the newer tech.

Is it normal for cheap power drills to have a slight chuck wobble?
I bought an acu drill for $60 and it has a slight wobble, i can still use it, but i wonder if it is normal?
I can return it, but if all cheap drills have that then there is no point, since i don't want to buy an expensive drill.

A couple years ago I spent like $40 on a Harbor Freight electric buffer and it paid for itself about 4x over the first time I used it. It's also super fun to use. It's one of those tools that you don't need until you own, and then suddenly there are 1001 uses for the thing.

>>1616249
>TTi isn't going to re-engineer their tools to suit what Home Depot wants.

This is exactly what OEMs do

>>1617638
>has bolt holes
>for bolts
>for bolting to table

>uses straps

>>1617711
The bolt holes didn't line up so I just strapped it down until icbf drilling new holes in the stand. I guess I it would have been nice for them to spoon feed me but instead I went /diy/ because I had shit to do.

i need to remove 10 mm bolts. socket wrench wont work. whats the name of the tool i need here? needs to be automatic and not angled

>>1612958
USN seems to use them all the time, only time I’ve seen them in the wild.

>>1615620

Lol, that sawzall caught on fire in my hands 2 years ago. Rest of the stuff is still going strong though, so I’d still recommend it.

>>1617729
M12 Fuel impact driver or ratchet. The non-fuels are on sale right now too for super cheap but not as nice.

>>1617638
>"super fun to use"
>getting blasted with cotton pieces is fun

>>1618194
It's not that bad anon. But yes little cotton bits do fray off and fly around. Whaddyagonnado.

Got a new vacuum to suck up grinding metal dust and paint/bondo dust at work, can't wait to try it out 2bh famalam

I found an Einhell impact drill and a BOSCH angle grinder sitting in a black concrete mixing container in the rain near a parking lot, while walking my dog. Let them dry for a few days and both work, but need to be cleaned from some disgusting slimey white residue. What should I use? Water and soap or alcohol or ...?
Can post pics later. Also what would be a good first project to get my feet wet? Thinking about building a book shelf.
t. fat IT person

>>1618261
High % iso alcohol is good for the electronic parts. The outside, use whatever.

>>1615620
fucking disgusting that in Germany you can only get the drill and saw with one battery for 240€ ($260~).
fucking jew prices.

>>1618276
Alright, will do. Kinda sad that no accessories were nearby, like the drill key (Bohrfutter in german) or grinder disks.
Electronics should be fine if the tools sat in the water for only a few days, right? :^)

>>1616249
the older generation of Craftsmen cordless tools with the black bodies were just rebranded Ryobi's made by TTI's subsidiary One World Industries; the current red models you see sold at Lowes now are made by Stanley Black and Decker and are built to be a sort of budget version of Dewalt tools.

>>1615902

>Better than you need tier:
Hilti, Mac, Fein, Festool/Protool, Ingersol Rand, Snap On, Professional Panasonics, Nemo Underwater

> "Good drill" tier
Dewalt, Makita, Milwaukee, Blue Bosch, Hitatchi, Metabo

>"high end home-use" tier
24v Kobalt, Ridgid

>good enough for around the house tier
Ryobi, porter cable, black and decker, craftsman, Worx, 20v Kobalt, Stanley

>Chinese flea market tier
Chicago Electric, Wen, Hercules, Bauer, Earthquake

>literally who tier
Greenworks, Genesis, Rockwell, Triton, everything else

>>1617638
Yeah buying a buffer is a great idea because everyone has a collection of old microphones in their house to buff. So far I haven't met a single person who didn't.

>>1618287
You already said they worked, right? Use that old rice trick maybe. I would blow em out real good with compressed air and then hit any dirty electronics with the alcohol carefully. If it was only a day or two and you were able to get them dried out before they got real crusty, you should be fine. Those brushed drills and tools aren’t too complicated. Worst case scenario, maybe a trigger goes because the variable speed triggers seek to be one of the most sensitive parts on those tools.

>>1618350
These things get outdated real quick. I would love to see the actual OE factories and who makes what as far as hand tools. Like I’m pretty sure there’s only a couple factories worldwide that make 99% of all wire strippers, and a couple Taiwanese factories that make all of these mid grade ratchets and sockets.

>>1612931
Hilti is great make

>>1618350
hitachi and metabo are the same exact tool

>>1618350
Terrible arbitrary post based upon price and nothing else.

I bought a Milwaukee M18 drill and impact driver set recently
Im using it to put up a picket fence.

I had to get my oscillating tool and my reciprocating saw out to do a few cuts.
Dragging a cord across the yard is a fucking burden. I kind of wished I had M18 versions of them, would have been handy.

>>1618553
with the bigger cordless tools you basically need the big batteries though, im guessing you got a couple 1.5ah with the drill set. the cordless sawzall will drain those little guys in no time

>>1618736
I have a 2.0, a 4.0 and a 5.0.
I was considering the Hakzall, I dont think I want to murder my batteries with a full size reciprocating saw.

>>1618399
Most people use them for polishing and buffing autobody parts but also useful for stripping paint off metal, glass, and wood. in general if you refurbish basically anything you would have use for anon.

also no need to be piece of shit about it]

>>1618927
What sort of buffs can it provide for me level 90 paladin?

>>1612931
>Interchangable chucks for cordless drills

Am I the only one who thinks this is a bad idea? Been wandering around my local hardware store and the Metabo cordless drills (which I usually hold in high regards) have that feature. They already have runout out of the box. Keep that shit to SDS tools that have bigger diameter shafts and don't need to be as accurate. Fein also does this.

>>1618505
Metabo HPT is the replacement line for the old Hitatchi, im pretty sure Metabo tools are still a separate product and the HPT batteries are backwards compatible on the old Hitatchi tools.

>>1619064
its not that common of a feature, the Black and Decker Matrix line uses it but that is homeowners-tier junk and there are a couple of small 12v models from Bosch and Milwaukee that have removable chucks but those are meant for light carpentry work like cabinet makers working in tight spaces.

Fein and Festool drills have the same feature but they are expensive precision made tools that wont be used and abused like the average jobsite Dewalt drill.

>>1615878
This.

>>1619064
Most people use these to blast an oversized hole with a dull bit in a 2x4 to run pipe or cable. Run out isn't a concern to these guys. If you need better precision I'm sure you can find something.

>>1612948
Made in Taiwan with all the reliability of Chinese metal quality control.
>>1613019
A corded drill. What you're looking for is a corded drill.
Or wifi charging.
Both of these exist.
>>1613701
Die grinder.
Someone (merlin, maybe?) makes a flex shaft that plugs into the side of a bench grinder so it has all the momentum of the rotating stones and I'd imagine that has hella torque.
I use the Dremel flex shaft plugged into a corded rotary tool and carve wood with an 80g burr pretty well so I'd imagine that a decent horsepower flex shaft has all the torque you could possibly want.
But if you have a dremel, try out the flex attachment and see if it's up your alley before you buy a $250 flex tool (and you do need to spend more than $200 to get a decent one. Or maybe $150+ for a Grizzly but there are better brands.)

>>1618215
Holy shit this thing works amazing for cleaning up metal dust and shavings, I'm getting a second one for home, this is better than sex (with animals ofcourse)

>>1618261
This guy again, pic related are the tools I found. Turns out to remove the grinding disk I need a special key, same for the drill. Considering these parts are rusted as fuck, is it even worth it to spend the 10€ on keys for them? What do you guys recommend to remove the rust, vinegar should be fine, right?

>>1619725
Chuck keys are pretty universal. They're not actually needed b/c you can just vise the wide part of the chuck and run the drill (if it's stuck) and then just do it with your hands in the future. (People think you need the keys but a gloved grip on the chuck will let you drill anything that a drill that size can drill without slip).
The angle grinder is a Bosch, and many of their products are quite good. The tool you need is universal to angle grinders, so might as well get one.

For the rust, use whatever. Brakleen, carb cleaner, simple green, doesn't matter. Wire brush it. Let it dry. Lube it. And there you go.

>>1619399
I just stated that corded drills weight fucktonn and they weren't updated since 1980's