/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1572084
Cordless tools are meme tier on a job site. You're basically charging batteries all day and working with a tool at a fraction of the speed when you could just run an extension cord.

>>1572084
Brushed motors are shit, brushless are more powerful and lighter and more compact.

>>1572095
>corded stuck in the 90's slowly cutting corners to make them cheaper,and more profits
>cordless add a bunch of bell and whistles and increase performance, and feeding the better than corded meme.

>>1572084
I don't know why you'd want a corded drill. Even if they updated them with all the features of modern cordless drills, you'd just get a drill that is only as good as the cordless, and costs just as much, if not more. Battery life with a 5Ah+ pack is a nonissue. The corded drill would be somewhat lighter, but then again you'd have to fuck around with the cable, which is probably a bigger drawback than 100-200g of extra weight.

>>1572265
Haven't had to buy a corded drill in the last 27 years, it's a comparatively cheap piece of shit but its still going strong and it has a hammer setting as well which is a lot more handy than most people would suspect. Especially if you have to do a lot of work around the home.
Aside from that its got plenty of torque and will run flat out all day (literally) without giving a fuck and do it again tomorrow.

Where I found cordless to be of some benefit is mechanical or remote work. if I can't be fucked running up the compressor to get the big uggadugga going, a small cordless version or drill-driver is pretty handy in tight spots. By remote I mean on a brand new job site with no power and you need to cut up a shitload of poly pipe, make a hole in something and various other stuff, but by the time power's hooked up all the cordless stuff gets chucked in the ute and ignored.

>>1572084
cordless is for people that have to work where there is not power, such as electricians who have the power turned off or are installing it. also who the fuck enjoys extension cord drills unless you're mixing fucking spackle or something

>shows up to remote jobsite
>has to drill a couple holes
>everybodys waiting on him
>watching his every move
>whispering, judging
>he pulls out a small honda generator
>flips ignition on, gives it a pull
>pulls it again
>fuck.png
>opens up his jockey box
>grabs jerrycan of fuel
>fills up generator
>goes at the pullcord like it owes him money
>thiscantbefuckinghappening
>trys to play it cool
>moms spaghetti'ing hard
>pulls out a new spark plug
>here comes bepis with a cordless ridgid
>hammers off your holes in 2 seconds
>youre still fumbling with the extension cord

corded tools are clearly superior

should I get a corded or cordless reciprocating saw?

to cut shit up in the backyard and garage to throw out.

I do have long extension cords if it matters

>>1572319

get a god damn cordless dewalt or milwaukee

itll change your life

personally i would opt for the angle grinder + zipcut though

>>1572092
Corded tools are limited by their electrical supply. In the US, that's typically 120 volts and 15 amps. Somewhat less if you're running a hundred feet of extension cord. So 1800 watts, give or take. 2400 if you have a 20A circuit available. Cordless tools are limited by their electrical supply too, but batteries have been improving enormously for several years. Cordless tools are beginning to surpass corded in power, and job sites have logistical and regulatory concerns that make cordless tools preferable if they can do the job.

>>1572092
Not true at all lmao we use 18v Milwaukee fuel tools and they run most of the day if not into half of another on one battery... Granted if you're sawing wood or some shit near constantly I guess but are you talking 12v??

>>1572327
And in more umpfy countries you gladly get 3600VA, based on 16A at 230V..

however to top it even more, you could hammer out more umpf by running all at 60Hz lol.

>>1572084
Depends.
I have both, a tiny li-ion 12v Makita drill and corded 550w impact Bosch drill.
When I was working on roof, I used Bosch, since it has more oomph.

>>1572319
If you're only cutting a couple things cordless is fine. If you're using it a bunch I'd go corded. Cordless saws and grinders go through batteries too fast for constant work and do not have the power of a big corded saw. I have cordless 12v and 18v reciprocating saws along with a Milwaukee Supersawzall and the Supersawzall is in another league.

>>1572372
I used to think the same way when I was using NiCd tools. But nowadays if I could only have one saw, I think I would prefer a brushless cordless with a couple 5.0Ah+ batteried over a corded tool.

>>1572084
cordless is for housewives and "males" that should think about transitioning

>>1572374
Not if you're doing demolition work you wouldn't. My 18v is the big dick Milwaukee and it works great for little jobs but if I'm gutting a bathroom or removing a deck I don't even get the cordless sawzall out of my truck.

Same goes for SDS drills and grinders, for little jobs the cordless one is fine. For throwing up 100 strut hangers into a spancrete ceiling or wire wheeling the surfaces of a 500 horsepower boiler I get the corded one out.

There is literally no reason to use a corded drill or impact over a cordless one though.

>>1572383
I was going to toss that in there, would only go corded if I was doing mostly demo work. That’s a different story. But I would rather use explosives.

>>1572383
>Gives reason for using corded drills
>"""""LITERALLY""""" contradicts self in the very next line

BACK TO PLEBBIT

>>1572388
I guess I should have been more specific. Literally no reason to use a corded 1/2" chuck drill over a cordless. Is that better?

>>1572319
Depends on what you do.
>do a lot of work in one location in large batches, eg. cut up 100 palettes
Corded.
>do random shit in the yard, cut some branches off trees
Cordless.
If you have 2-3 spare batteries in total, you'll be able to do quite a lot of work with the cordless, too. I've found that it's not too much worse than using a small chainsaw.

>>1572302
based and rigidpilled

>>1572327
No cordless tool uses anywhere near the power a normal residential socket can provide.

High quality, high discharge & capacity 18650s, which is what good cordless tools will use, will have a maximum discharge of around 10A.

Let's say you have a monstrous 22V battery pack with parallel pairs (12 cells), that's still only 22V*2*10A = 400W.

>>1572389
Yes. Thank you.

>>1572412
Except for the 60V Flexvolt batteries and M18 12.0 packs. Also add to the fact that these companies don’t give a shit about the corded tools nearly as much as their cordless lines so they’re using more powerful and efficient motors.

>>1572436
18V*15A = 270W (15A is what they advertise with lol)
60V*10A = 600W (as far as I understand it, it switches the cells from parallel triples to everything in series)

That's 16% the power a normal outlet in my house can provide.

>>1572444
The 12.0Ah packs are 4 parallel rows, that’s why some of those Fuel tools run like a raped ape off of only 18V.

>>1572448
For capacity, not current.
If they had a higher current number to advertise with, they'd use it.

>>1572454
Also current. There is a big difference using some of the higher power tools with different batteries. If you try to stick a 1.5Ah pack on the big impact wrench, it will be so much weaker. The companies even tell you not to run them with smaller battery packs.

>>1572465
I find it extremely unlikely that they wouldn't use the highest number they could justify but fine.

Let's say 270W*4 = 1080W.

Still only a third of the power of a common outlet.
And with 12Ah you'd completely discharge your battery in just 12 minutes.

>cordless
What the fuck? Meme shit that explodes when you least expect it. Just run an extension cord and save yourself the trouble. Unless you really need cordless for some unique accessibility reason, call me when cordless tools get cold fusion or free energy generators instead of batteries

>>1572474
Depends on stuff you're working on.
Sometimes battery powered tools are easier to use, than corded ones, especially with li-ion batteries.

>>1572444
Makita uses 30A cells.

>>1572372
the new M18 Fuel Super Sawzall cuts just as fast as the 15amp corded models.

>>1572521
More amp doesn't mean it's a better cell, lots of vapers use the lower capacity cells that are higher amp draw, they go dead faster but are less fragile and put out more peak amperage.

I honestly don't understand why you would want a corded tool, my m18 grinder lasts me all day with a 9.0 battery and that's a very demanding tool

corded drills are must have but only the ones with speed dial, for bits that you will ruin by reving up
Trigger speed control is shit for such cases

Truth for corded is
They peaked 30 years ago
If you need one, get a used Metabo or Fein for a for 20$, a new Supressor Cap and two brushes.

>>1572526
They manufacturers simply don't care about corded tools anymore and it's clear why.

With cordless you have to buy a new battery every few years for 50-200$ from them.
With corded you have to buy a set of carbon brushes for 5$ every few years.

>>1572525
>More amp doesn't mean it's a better cell
It doesn't mean anything, besides max recommended current.
> lots of vapers use the lower capacity cells that are higher amp draw, they go dead faster but are less fragile and put out more peak amperage.
Vapers use cells close to their limits tho.
And yeah, capacity is lower, since couple years ago it was pretty difficult to come by 30A cells with 2.6 A-h capacity, while 1.3 A-h were quite common.
>I honestly don't understand why you would want a corded tool
Batteries are expensive. Cord is cheap.
This is why all people, that screw many screws (i.e. installing drywall, screwing roof) will usually have corded drill, while window installer, and plumbers will have battery powered thing, since they're too lazy to use cords.

>>1572532
https://batterybro.com/collections/amps-high-to-low
Notice how absolutely none of the 30a cells are over 2000mah?
There's a direct tradeoff between high capacity and high current output.
Basically, every makita tool only having 30a cells means makita is ONLY using 6+ year old cell tech and no cells over 2000mah
Sad!

>>1572532
>since they're too lazy to use cords.
you call it lazy, I call it more efficient to not move cords around all day when I can go all day on one charge.
I still bring out corded tools when its needed, when i would go through more than 1 or 2 batteries, lots of sawzall demo, lots of plywood ripping.. but it takes longer getting everything out and putting it all away.

My only corded drill is a drill press.

>>1572532

I’ve honestly never seen any of the guys installing walls use corded on any of the job sites I’ve been on. The carpenters are the only ones who really use corded to a large degree.

The 3 tiers of tools depend entirely on what the hell you're doing.

Cordless: Working where you have to constantly move location, have no power, have to maneuver around a client's occupied space, or only use said tool a handful of times across a job.

Corded: Where you have constant access to wall power within your cord or extension cord range and/or need to be constantly using the tool, or where you require a higher power to drive it. Shop-based work space, putting up drywall, home diy.

Pneumatic: For a dedicated, high-use shop space where you need power, lightness, and want to avoid a tool dying from its motor inhaling grit and dust.

Corded is the most bang-for-your-buck but has serious limitations due to the tether, pneumatic is the most expensive but the most reliable, powerful and comfortable to use. Cordless is the middle ground of price, but standard in-field professional choice because of its flexibility at the expense of its lifetime (which is shortened by a company's decision to cease support for any particular battery system).

>>1572593
Pneumatic is also the choice for doing anything at risk of an electrical short when you're flooding the area with water to keep dust and heat down. Maybe not so much a consideration for DIY'er, but for anyone that works with a lot of concrete or stone cutting, drilling or the mining industry its like a right hand.
As a side note, the tools themselves tend to be pretty long lasting and aren't usually very expensive considering just how long they keep going.

>>1572550
>Notice how absolutely none of the 30a cells are over 2000mah?
Yes. Just think about this. To allow more current, you need thicker foil (copper and whatever) there. To allow more capacity, you need surface area. With thick foil, it is difficult.
> ONLY using 6+ year old cell tech and no cells over 2000mah
That is OK, actually. There were no revolution in batteries for past 6 years.
>>1572579
It depends on amount of screws. If you install windows, or air conditioners (mini-splits), or whatever plumbing/electrical, if is just much more efficient to have cordless drill with couple batteries. No need to search for sockets, just pull the trigger and collect money.
When you need to screw insane amount of screws in more-less same place, you're better having cord (or having 2-5 spare batteries). When you need something powerful (like hammer drill), corded ones are cheaper, and in many cases just more powerful.
>>1572592
They usually install it like that in new construction... Also, I guess Americans use nails and nail guns.
And yeah, carpenters.

>>1572084
why do they need to be updated again?

>>1572084
>When a stoppable force run by a limited amount of power meets an immovable object.

>>1572742
>33% increase in capacity
>acts like he doesnt care
Kek makita fags in full blown damage control
Milwaukee already on 21700 and makita is still messing around with old vape batteries kek

>>1572804
>33% increase in capacity
>acts like he doesnt care
There were no increase in capacity. 6 years ago I could get 3200 mAh 18650 battery no problem.
Now there are slightly more high-discharge high-capacity batteries, like LG HE4.
>Kek makita fags in full blown damage control
Whatever dude, all tools are the same chink shit nowadays. Besides Metaboo and some Bosches I guess.
>Milwaukee already on 21700 and makita is still messing around with
Same as two 18650 in parallel, more-less. Doesn't really matter.
>old vape batteries kek
Those were originally laptop batteries.

>>1572808
And yeah, with 18650 you'd get more current, than from 21700, due to thermals.
One 21700 20A cell, or two 18650 20A cells with 40A in total...

>>1572730
Yea it's not the tools that are costly for a pneumatic system, it's the compressor that eats oil, your electric bill, and your floor space.

>>1572808
>trying to make an argument against 21700s
>keeps trying to justify why old cheaper shitty cells are better when 20a 18650s in 3p5s are outputting 1600w
You lost dude, there's no excuse for putting old shitty cells in anymore other than cutting costs and making profit, and you lap it up and praise makita the whole way.
Honestly cognitive dissonance to this degree is embarrassing.

hey im a noob to this, is a 12v Milwakee good as a DIY drill for around the home? I used to have one on a job doing car doors and it was great to use so was wondering if its worth getting for home use?

I only ask because they arnt super cheap where I live so want to know if they are a good investment.

The design is nice too!

>>1572917
Should be fine for most light DIY stuff. 18V would offer more power if you need it, but the M12 line is excellent.

anyone that prefers corded obviously hasnt been on a jobsite and seen that literally nobody uses cords for shit like drills anymore

its more common to see a generator running with a battery charger plugged into it than to see someone dragging a piece of shit corded drill around

>>1572925
this, i'm convinced this board is 99% people larping

>>1572925
People use corded impact drills all the time.

>>1572856
>trying to make an argument against 21700s
I'm not.
>there's no excuse for putting old shitty cells
Define old and shitty.
21700 is just a size of cell. Chemistry is identical, capacity is bigger, since cell is bigger.
It could have been a Li-po pouch. Could have been metallic rectangular can.
> praise makita the whole way.
Why I'd praise fucks, who weren't fixing their shitty gear shifter for years, which will grind nylon housing if treated badly?

>>1572958
21700 is a size, a more optimal size at that.
There's no reason to use 30a cells, they provide no benefit.
There is no benefit to using 30a when 20a can output 1600w, there are downsides however, like a 33% loss in capacity.
You can keep trying to rationalize it all you want but they cheaped out on cells and ripped consumers off, it's that simple.
You said 30a like it's some sort of benefit, it's not, but a simple layperson would believe it is, which is what you were trying to perpetuate.
You were implying 30 is better than 20 when it's not, and I called you out on it, reply to me again btw.

>>1572925
Yep, you only see corded on tablesaws, and big diameter drilling. All the other shit is done wwith cordless. The fuckwits complaining that a battery wont last all day forget to realise how quick a battery change is. It's litteraly 2 minuts to the van or shed and back. Or just keep an extra charged one in the bag.

>>1572925
>>1572938
More likely to be DIY hobbyists who don't want to be forced to "upgrade" every couple years or people whose jobs are within a workshop with power strips everywhere.

>>1572270
>100% duty cycle

>>1572444
The new Makita and Dewalt circular saws have more raw power and cut faster than a mag 77 Skilsaw (2200W). And while my 18V angle grinder is not as powerful as my go-to corded ones, it can draw 40A from the battery, which gives it power comparable to a 7A corded.

>>1572532
>Batteries are expensive. Cord is cheap.
A 100' contractor-grade extension cord runs about as much as a high-capacity battery. And cords on a jobsite don't last forever.

>>1572973
40A * 18V = 720W
7A * 220V = 1540W
?

inb4 voltage cucks

Reciprocating saw dude here again.

am I better off getting a cheaper one and a better blade or a more expensive one and sticking with its stock blades.

also how unusable are they if I don't have clamps or vices? do they really need to very fixed to break shit down?

like I said earlier, I really just want to use it to break junk down (including old fencing planks, branches, plastic tubs, old cubby house, furniture etc)

>>1572960
I think that lipo would suit purpose better
Also, higher discharge current, higher power, and better safety.
Also, thicker cells can be cheaper (since C rating can be lower), than 18650, and this is one of the reason, why everyone is switching.

>>1572976
This

>>1572976
Thank dog that these companies are using better and more efficient motors in their cordless tools while the corded stuff is stuck in the 1970s.

>>1572975
This too, you don’t want to be running a 15A saw through 150’ of Christmas decor tier cords.

>>1572917
I have the Ridgid 12V set, and it’s good enough for 98% of stuff around the house, especially with the 4.0Ah battery. Might bog down a little running big hole saws, but so will a cheaper 18V. A good 12V platform will put out as much power as an affordable Ryobi or B&D 18V.

>>1572925
Even mechanics in shops with air supplies are reaching for their battery powered tools over air stuff because being tethered is a pain in the ass.

>>1572383
>There is literally no reason to use a corded drill or impact over a cordless one though.

Production. Even small scale on a job site it is beneficial to have a "work shop" type location. Added bonus is you stop faggots trying to borrow the drill when it is not in use because they have to then run 150' of cord.

The nightmare of all Americans.

Neither their matchstick houses nor expensive battery packs can provide sufficient power for it.

>>1573005
I have one. Im American, si

>>1572999
Motors have same efficiency, in 80-92% ballpark.
Brush less motors have more chooch only because it has no mechanical commutator. It allows to push more current.

>>1573005

funny looking garbage disposal

>>1572995
You should have some Diablo blades and some beater blades regardless. Good blades are cheap compared to a shitty saw, so if your budget is tight, that's the low-hanging fruit you shouldn't leave on the tree. But saw quality does make a difference. Beyond power, nicer saws have features like lights, better ergonomics, better blade adjustment, etc. Check reviews for particular models, and see if you can find one factory refurbished.

See that pivoting U-shaped contact piece that the blade passes through? That goes against what you're cutting to hold it in place. Loose things can get shaky, but they'll usually cut without much trouble. A plate vise may help with that on the cheap, but a regular vise and clamps are so useful to have that it would probably be a good idea to budget for some (perhaps secondhand).

>>1573007
Is it 2200W like any common European electric kettle?

>>1573014
Si, porque hay 220v

>>1573010
Brushless motors have about half the waste heat and 12% more delivered power for a given input power at the scale of handheld power tools. That's not negligible.

>>1573016
lol don't tell me you had to connict it to a 4-wire plug

>>1573017
>Brushless motors have about half the waste heat
No, they don't. They waste same amount on heat, as brushed motor.
>and 12% more delivered power for a given input power at the scale of handheld power tools. That's not negligible.
True, since in brushed motor brushes don't allow to overclock the motor, they will burn. While in brush less that is not an issue. Yet they will run will low efficiency in this case, but that is not an issue, since you need extra oomph only for short amount of time.

>>1573019
I have 220/380 and Italian sockets.

>>1573012
what price tier should I be going for if my main goal is just for home use to break stuff down?

I was thinking of going the next tier down from the Ryobi one but not sure if that is going to cheap or if even the Ryobi is considered too cheap

>>1573024
oh and another thing to add. would a circular saw or jigsaw be usable for my current needs or even be considered more versatile in general?

>>1573022
Even though you speak Spanish like murricans you're not one of them.

>>1573025

i would without a doubt get a circular saw before you get a reciprocating saw

a good one

dewalt, milwaukee, even makita but fuck makita honestly

get used to using it and it can cut all kinds of shit

>>1573024
If you go cordless and don’t have any tools yet, wait for Father’s Day or something and try to save up around 200 neetbux and you can probably get a kit with both types of saws.

>>1573031
+1 on the circ saw if you’re actually trying to build anything. Recip saws are a glorified hack saw for hack jobs.

>>1573031
>>1573035
ok cool I might go for a circular saw and yeah I'd like to make shit one day.

are they better to get corded or cordless?

I should be able to use it to cut up old stuff right?

if I go cordless it's going to one of those things where I'll pretty much be sticking with that brand for other tools for sharing batteries right

>>1573031
>>1573035
And for either circular saws and reciprocating saws what would you recommend off this site? I'm an Ausfag and that's our main diy shop here

https://www.bunnings.com.au/our-range/tools/power-tools/power-saws/circular-saw?gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=CjwKCAjw1KLkBRBZEiwARzyE70_nk9LnfGLdoCx7CpnqUwdMjdLfTdOACspGJYOIB8aUCj-gRto46hoCWJAQAvD_BwE

>>1573024
>what price tier should I be going for if my main goal is just for home use to break stuff down?
Above garbage tier, but cheap. Look for a cheap brand/model with good reviews for longevity. Keep in mind the traditional optimization problem: you can have something fast, good, and cheap, but not all at once. If you want a halfway decent saw for cheap, you'll probably have to spend some time looking around for a good deal. Prioritizing cost, quality, and research time is something you'll have to figure out for yourself. I haven't checked out the market for a while, so I can't offer advice on specific models you might consider.

>>1573025
>would a circular saw or jigsaw be usable for my current needs or even be considered more versatile in general?
They would work for many demolition tasks, though a reciprocating saw is better for most of that (a circular saw is powerful but dangerous for odd cuts, a jigsaw is controllable but is basically a smaller less powerful reciprocating saw that's not made to easily get the blade into odd places and doesn't have nearly as good a blade selection). However, a reciprocating saw is not very useful for building things. A circular saw is great for that, and a jigsaw is situational but potentially useful. If a homeowner DIYer has one of the three, it's probably going to be a circular saw, with a reciprocating saw a distant second. But like the namefag mentioned, there are sometimes good deals with multiple tools, and a circular saw / reciprocating saw may show up as a pair or part of a larger kit.

>>1573039
It’s cheaper to get a powerful corded one than a good cordless, but that all changes if you’re willing to invest in a starter kit that will give you a 7-1/4” saw for basically $50. Not sure if the ausfags get deals like us here in the states. Anyway pay attention to the sizes with the cordless stuff because some of them are small and best for trim work.

And you aren’t stuck on that battery platform, but it is most efficient that way. I kinda hate having 4 different chargers on my work bench.

how dangerous and difficult is it to chop things up with a circular saw and different angles and stuff. as in, would I be able to cut at things that are vertical etc? or is it one of those tool you got to always be cutting parallel to the floor

>>1573039
>are they better to get corded or cordless?
Reciprocating saw is generally better cordless, since a homeowner would be using it for light demolition and miscellaneous odd jobs that might take you to distant or inconvenient places to string a cord, and run time isn't a big concern. For a circular saw, you'll want to ability to run it a lot in one spot to build things, including ripping down big boards. Corded would probably serve you better unless you spring for a high-end model that is currently priced for professional users.

>sticking with that brand
It's an economy issue. Having one brand makes the logistics of operating cordless tools simpler, easier, and cheaper. If you have the budget/space/etc. to accommodate multiple systems, and there's a particular version of something that you really want, you can certainly have multiple battery systems.

>>1573048
Just keep your fingers out of the way and wear safety glasses. Never enough clamps.

>>1573048
A circular saw should generally be used to cut flat things that are ergonomically positioned and heavy/secured enough that they won't get thrown if the blade binds. Moving out of those parameters puts you in a position where a heavy, powerful motor with a fast-spinning blade may decide to run off in unexpected directions and/or send splintery shards of wood around the area. I once saw someone attempt to cut a loosely-held steel bike lock cable using a circular saw. Imagine how that went, and imagine how questionable situations can go similarly.

>>1572360
>550
Weak as all hell.

>>1573052
now I'm scared and leaning towards a reciprocating saw again

>>1572469
>60A power draw
Somehow I doubt that.

>>1573066
Yes, I know, but it is more than enough for 6 mm holes in concrete and cardboard.
When I lived in commie shithole I had 800w chink drill and 1,5 kW hammer drill.
And similar 12v Makita drill.

>>1573067
well the general rule in my limited experience is this:
If you want to make something, you use a circular saw.
If you want to unmake something, you use a reciprocating saw.
If you want to fuck up and make a big mess of everything, you use a jigsaw.

although to tell the truth my perspective may be a little bit skewed since my experience with reciprocating and circular saws is watching my old man do stuff when I was a kid and my experience with jigsaws is me fucking up every time I try to use one

>>1572942
in what industry? corded impact drivers are non-existent now and 1/2" impact wrenches have been outshined by cordless models with 3-4 times the power. only in really heavy industry where 3/4" or 1" models are used do you still see corded impact wrenches but thats only for building bridges and shit.

>>1573149
>impact wrench
Who's talking about impact wrenches?

Was "impact drill" the wrong translation?
I'm talking about this.

If you want to drill quickly and easily into concrete you need a good deal of power.

>>1572995
>>1573012
>>1573024


4 videos on recip blades:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uwg3deSgAMo&list=PLjT3B9r2z3fWq-8E759iNJCp94LskQi4p

>>1573161

Small rotary hammer > impact drill by far.

If you anchor stuff into concrete often forget about drills.

>>1572785
That is a sexy sexy hole (maker)

>>1572302
10/10

also the enjoyment of having your truck smell like gasoline from spilling when refueling the generator

>>1572092
Neet detected, corded is exclusively used in commercial construction because no one wants to run 200ft of extension cords or put up 10 temp power stations

>>1572092
Nojob detected

>>1572925
This

>>1572265
>I don't know why you'd want a corded drill.
Because for $40 I can have a tool that I can use at any time, for any length of time. It also won't weigh as more or balance as weirdly since there's no battery hanging off the end of the handle.

>>1574075
You know that a Li-Ion pack will charge up in an hour and drive screws all day, right?

>>1574075
Cord is much more annoying, than batteries, I'd say.
But tools are cheaper, and provide way more oomph. Nearly all impact hammer drills (with designated hammering thing, that runs of shaft with swing rod bearing) are corded, just for this reason... And for reason, that you'd need 9000 A-h battery
>>1574077
Depends on capacity.

still waiting for a full sized 2.25HP router that runs on a battery.
probably not gonna happen.

>>1574077
>drive screws all day
I don't use a drill for driving screws, that would be stupid. You use a power screwdriver or in situations that require higher loads an impact driver.
I have several power screwdrivers, all of which are useful and one of them is always plugged in and charging. They're really cheap.

Drills are shit for driving screws. You use them for drilling holes, reaming holes, countersinking holes, or (if it has a clutch) tapping holes.
>charge up in an hour
And that hour is always the timeframe in which I seem to pick up the tool and need to use it.
>all day
Bullshit. And that claim goes right in the shitter if you ask the cordless tool to use a holesaw, step drill, or have to drill masonry.
We have a fleet of power drills and one impact driver at work that all get shared and have many batteries for each. Unless you have three batteries in GOOD condition you cannot get continuous use out of a cordless power drill or impact driver. And buying that many batteries PLUS the tool costs way more money than simply buying a single corded tool of either type. And in certain combinations I can afford to buy BOTH types as corded tools for less money than a single cordless one worth buying.

I'm not completely opposed to cordless tools. But there are certain tools that are shitty compromises when you opt for a battery over a cord.

I want to into power tools.

what are the first.....say, 5 most versatile power tools to get for home use? and which ones should I get corded and which cordless and how do you store yours?

and what brands /models would you recommend for amateur stuff?

if it matters I want to into gardening and maybe some woodworking down the track. oh and working on cars

>>1574253

milwaukee/dewalt circ saw cordless
milwaukee/dewault 1/2 inch drill cordless
dewalt slim 13 amp angle grinder corded
any brand bench grinder corded
a decent drill press or a vise if you dont have one

>>1574088
>depends on capacity
Meh, it’s actually sort of independent of that. Larger packs have more cells, so just charge it at a higher current and you still have the same current going to each cell. Look at C rating, most od these brands have fast chargers that will give you 80% capacity in an hour.

>>1572350
60hz
jut get some German tools and run them on 300hz
also not enjoying 3700W Brush less power

>>1574380
30years old
Brush less
Still works

Any opinion on this?

Just wanted something that will last a long time for only occasional use. More like sit in the box for years mostly.

>>1574445
rotary hammer >>> hammer drill

>>1574449
Here you go, big boy!

>>1574113
>We have a fleet of power drills and one impact driver at work
>that all get shared
Here's your problem. If you require a drill to work literally all day, in a production environment, then yeah, a cordless is going to be expensive.
If you need a drill "all day" in your own shop or around the house, the 5Ah+ batteries will last without any issues
>And that hour is always the timeframe in which I seem to pick up the tool and need to use it
...unless you don't recharge your batteries as soon as they get depleted.

>>1574458
You don't need hammer drill for occasional use. Impact drill (which has not much chooch in hammer action) would be fine.

>>1574445
I bought that exact thing, also refurb.

The chuck key is worn down so you have to be careful when cinching it down, but otherwise I've gotten a ton of use of out it. Drill, drive screws, punch holes in block, brick & cement, even mixing small batches of mortar.

I'd buy another one in a heartbeat if my current one died.

>almost 2020
>not using a cordless brushless hybrid impact hammer drill/driver for everything

fools.

>>1572084
There's no real limit to a battery for power. Standard outlets can only give you about 15 amps, depending on what the breaker is. The battery can churn out 90amps if the drill torques down really hard.

>>1574468

Depends entirely on how big a hole you need to drill. I have a rotary hammer at work that I use where a hammer drill would be fine most the time (usually just <1/4" holes in concrete for those plastic expansion anchors), but, every so often, I get something where it's absolutely necessary. Most recently, I had to drill a 1/2" hole through an 18" concrete wall. A hammer drill would never have realistically managed that.

(I actually was trying for a 1" hole initially, but the sheer mass of the bit itself was eating up most of the impact energy and I barely made a dent in the concrete before giving up.)

I keep getting tempted by the Ryobi cordless rotary hammer, since I hate fucking with the bigass one and spool of extension cord every time I need one or two small holes.Unfortunately, it's just slightly too expensive for me to justify while I already have the corded one and my own personal cordless hammer drill.

>>1574485
>no proper chuck
how are you supposed to drill holes with this?

>>1574488
power is a function of current AND voltage....

>>1574492
I'm sure everyone here knows that already.

>>1574497
Apparently this guy doesn't and thinks less than ten times the current is impressive when you have a tenth of the voltage.

>>1574499
The point is that you don't need a massive transformer.

>>1574501
Where did he make that point?

>>1574491
it has an 18-speed electronic clutch, put it in screwdriver mode, select your speed then adjust the clutch with the control panel on the bottom.

>>1574491
hex shank drill bits are a thing now, even hex shank masonry bits.

>>1574508
if it's not SDS it's gay

>>1574503
I'm not sure what you are talking about now. I'm still the same person. The reason corded drills are not very popular is because they have a cord and they are not as powerful as battery powered drill when it comes to instant torque access. Thus the tech for corded drills isn't going to get much better. The only way for them to compare with cordless drills would be to have an inline step down transformer and AC/DC conversion. Take the 120v 15a and turn it into 18v 100a. That's going to be expensive and bulky, but now you can have a drill the same size with the same amount of instant torque, should it need it. Thus, corded drill tech isn't worth investing in. Hell, I'd buy a corded drill if it were small and had more torque.

>>1574512
How much torque you get out of how much current depends on your motor design (especially turn counts).

Yes, generally more voltage = more speed and more current = more torque but that applies only for the same motors.
A cordless tool and a corded one use very different motors.

>>1574522
See the OP image? The drill on the left is small and thin. The drill on the right is thick. This is for the reason you state. If the drill were DC instead of AC and used a heavy transformer on the cord (giant wall adapter) then it could be thin too and provide lots of torque when needed.

>>1574469
>I bought that exact thing, also refurb.
Thanks Some of the reviews said it was leaking grease, but not many reviews and often from 2017.

>>1572095
>not using the hitachi AC brushless rotary hammer
If they made small, lightweight, brushless corded tools with clutch settings for use inside a shop, I'd use them in a heartbeat. Out on a jobsite it's obvious that the cord would get in the way, but inside with outlets hanging from the ceiling every 5 metres there's really no reason to use cordless. I'm also in a 240V country so it's easier to get high power out of an outlet.
Though perhaps I'm in the market for pneumatic tools instead at this point.

>>1572530
This definitely.

>>1574545
This is objectively false. To run a drill on a tenth the voltage and 10 times the current you'd simply have 10 times less turns of wire, but make the wire thicker. The performance itself wouldn't change one bit. Corded drills are bulkier than brushed cordless because they're more powerful and need stator windings, while the brushless cordless drills are arguably more powerful but have a much denser motor type.

Take apart a brushed cordless drill and you'll find inside a piddly little enclosed motor, like what you'd find on a cheap remote control car.

>>1574571
It isn't, "piddly," it is just better high tech. This is why corded ones need to update, like the OP states.

>>1574578
The brushed ones are slightly higher tech, but still lower power than a corded like in that pic. Brushless is the way to go for both corded and cordless. I think I saw some induction motor drills/grinders further up there, which is interesting but I think they'd have a lower power:weight ratio than a permanent magnet brushless motor, and have less control thanks to not being synchronous.

>>1574253
>I want to into gardening and maybe some woodworking down the track. oh and working on cars
Circular saw and drill should handle most basic wood projects like work tables, trellises, planters, etc. Circular saw should be corded unless you want to spring for a contractor-grade cordless. For a drill, a cheap corded model should do most of what you need, but a proper 18V cordless will do it a lot nicer. A hammer function costs a little more, but it can be useful if you have an occasional hole to make in concrete or brick (a proper SDS drill is far superior if you have a lot to do, or need big holes or holes in solid stone). With as good as cordless tools have been getting, brand isn't a huge concern for light around-the-house things, but if you can afford it, DeWalt/Makita/Milwaukee generally have more robust offerings than lower-tier brands. But mid-tier brands are generally solid options for home DIY too. Bottom tier brands can be perfectly serviceable, but quality tends to be hit or miss. If your budget is tight, check reviews for individual models before buying. Optionally, an impact driver (cordless always and forever) will make driving screws a lot nicer. They often come in kits with cordless drills, a charger, and a couple batteries. Larger kits include other tools you may be interested in, so keep that in mind.

>oh and working on cars
Add an impact wrench and an angle grinder. Angle grinders suck batteries dry with alarming speed, so corded is almost always the way to go even if you don’t need a lot of power. Dewalt makes an 11 amp paddle switch grinder that typically retails for around $80 which has a very good combination of power, ergonomics, and price that would be a good introductory grinder. Be aware that an angle grinder is by far the most dangerous tool mentioned here, and you’ll need good PPE and attention to your workplace.

>>1574253
Also, don’t cheap out on abrasives. Not only do good quality disks cut faster and last longer, they’re less likely to explode on you. An impact wrench isn’t necessary for auto work, but it can make things faster and easier. Cordless ones are very good these days, but considering that they’re mostly a shop tool the price savings on a corded one may be worth it for you depending on specifically what you’re looking to do.

>most versatile power tools to get for home use
The other anon mentioned a bench grinder, but I hardly ever use mine. A vise and an angle grinder can do most of what you’d use a bench grinder for while being more versatile (sharpening drill bits is an exception, but see below for a better option). Since you’re looking to get into woodworking, a versatile alternative is a handheld (corded) belt sander with a mounting table to turn it into a stationary belt sander. And if you do want a dedicated bench grinder, what I would recommend instead of a traditional enclosed-hard-wheel grinder is a bench or pedestal “buffer” with exposed wheels on long arms. For rough grinding, use abrasive belts on a 6” rubber wheel, which cuts faster and cleaner than a hard stone, and does not require an enclosure to protect against fragmentation. Buffers also accommodate things like wire wheels, paint strippers, and finishing disks.

A drill press is very nice to have, but cheap ones tend to be garbage. Look for a good one (powerful motor, heavy construction, ability to run at low RPMs) used or be prepared to spend a lot. For perspective, I don’t ever recall seeing a decent drill press at a hardware store. One option is a Shopsmith, which uses one drive assembly and frame to run accessories including a drill press, table saw, sanding disk, wood lathe, and a bunch of others. They’re pricey but compact for what they offer.

>>1574253
I have a Grizzly 12-speed bench drill press that I mostly use for metal drilling, and while wood is more forgiving than steel, you’re probably going to want to run large forstner or spade bits at some point, so I wouldn’t go much lighter-duty than that.

And finally, for versatility in homeowner tasks, an oscillating multitool with a variety of blades/accessories. They’re rarely the best tool for a job, but if you don’t have the best tool for an odd job, they may still let you complete the project. I’d go with cordless for convenience, whichever battery system you have for other tools. Though I do like the ergonomics on the DeWalt.

>how do you store yours?
I try to organize my tools into functional groups. For example, my drill press sits on a cart that holds several drill press vises of various kinds and sizes, different cutting fluids, several drill bit sets, some center punches, and a few miscellaneous accessories like a flex shaft and burrs / sanding drums. Angle grinders (with different disks fit) hang from a cart with a dedicated extension cord and storage for spare disks and grinder accessories, usually stationed near a workbench. Cordless tools usually go in dedicated toolboxes that securely hold the tool and any accessories I’m likely to need while using the tool. For example, my impact wrench box contains the specific sockets that fit my vehicles’ lug nuts, and my drill/driver box contains a bunch of drill and driver bits, as well as measuring, marking, and hand tools that I might use on miscellaneous projects where I would be using a hand drill and driver (e.g. a torpedo level and drywall anchors). There is space for one or more batteries in each box, but batteries are usually kept at a central charging station, ready to be tossed in a box if I need to take it somewhere.

>>1574545
See the OP image? The drill on the left has a heavy battery pack on it. The on the right doesn't.
Cordless tools need to be lighter to make up for the battery.

>>1574512
100A you're pulling numbers out of your ass. I don't believe for a second you can get 1800W out of that dinky little battery pack.
Also "heavy transfomer" have you never heard of switch mode power supplies?

>>1574766
Look at Milwaukee’s M18 yard tools that run off the big 12.0Ah batteries. They claim it has the same power as a 40cc chainsaw. Googles “40cc Chainsaw HP” and first result pulls up a Husky with 2.4HP from 40cc. Even bumping that down to 2HP, that’s 1500W from an 18V battery pack.

>>1574766
Milwaukee is gay with their “trade secrets” but there is a ProToolsReview article where the guy is pressing a Milwaukee rep on the 12.0Ah battery. Rep won’t give an exact number, but goes so far as to say “Hundreds of amps”. They could easily pull 90A-100A from the 12.0 pack under heavy load.

>>1574867
Does your 12.0 pack get depleted in a few minutes?
No? Then it doesn't draw hundred amps.

>>1574880
Capable of pulling that on the highest loads, like running the giant angle grinders and sawzalls and running into a real, real tough spot could pull that maybe? I have no idea, but that battery is 216Wh so you could still get 10min of continuous runtime absolutely raping the thing and pulling 1200W+. You could run a small compressor off that thing pretty effectively.

Pic related looks like such a beast.

>>1574898
You just keep repeating shit, instead of saying anything that supports your 100A number.

Keep stalling the motor and measure how long the battery last - then you can calculate the average amps it draws.

>>1574910
I gave you answers. They don’t rate the cordless drills in watts or amps like the 1970s corded tech. But a brushless 18V chainsaw is putting out as much power as a 40cc 2-stroke gas motor. As much as I hate electric yard equipment, the fact that you can run a lawnmower on these batteries proves that they’re just as capable as the corded stuff, even if you don’t want to believe it. The batteries may not last forever, but that’s the trade-off and the Li-Ion packs charge quick and hold their charge forever in storage so at this point it’s user error if you run out of juice and have to stop working for 45min while your battery packs charge up in the truck.

>>1574949
>They don’t rate the cordless drills in watts or amps like the 1970s corded tech
They literally advertise the amps of their battery as being "15A".
You can even see it on their web page.

Cordless doesn't make power ratings useless.

>>1574862
>>1574867
You'll have to excuse me for not taking milwaukee's claims at face value.

>>1572302
Damn, I just knew Milwaukee was another Bepis clone

>>1574949
You still a brony my guy?
Who was your favorite pony?

I work at a thrift store. what sort of stuff should I look out for?

I'm guessing most cordless stuff are duds and we're probably given to us because batteries were fucked.

what are these grinder things used for? there is one currently out back not sure if I should grab it.

I currently don't do diy stuff but would like to . currently just collecting tools and setting up a work shop

>>1575064
Older cordless tools which still used NiCd batteries could still work.

Of course they are much more limited compared to modern ones.

>>1575064
If its cheap, its worth taking. A decent new one costs 100$, a cheap one can be had new for like $20-30

With grinding stones, they grind steel. You can sharpen chisels and drill bits, grind off bolts. Anything you can think of grinding metal stuff.

My favorite use of them is to put a wire wheel on it. A wire wheel can clean up rust and old paint and other grime on old stuff. Like say you bought a rusty crescent wrench and wanted to clean it up, a wire wheel would clean it right up.

Can also put other stuff like cloth wheels to polish and paper wheels to sharpen knives and other stuff like that. They have their uses

>>1573161
We call those SDS drills or rotary hammer drills. Impact almost always refers to impact driver near woodframe construction and refers to impact wrench near automotive and heavy metals fab.

>>1574508
those have terrible runout and I hope you enjoy switching bits every two seconds

>>1572265
>hey brush-less is efficient, and more powerful than brushed motors. FUCK CORD FAGs.

>not wanting a more powerful ,and efficient corded tool
>why would you want led on a corded tool
>why would you want torque modes, for different fasteners.

fuck you, if brush less was so great, it would make corded greater.Instead corded is stuck in an old designs, and for all purposes neglected. why? cause corded will not make as much profit as cordless. cordless is selling you an expensive razor blade (battery) that eventual dull, and you will need to replace.

>>1575084
Efficiency is vital to a cordless tool since it's means more battery life.

Who gives a shit about efficiency on a corded tool?

>>1575087
efficiency is vital everywhere fag.It is important in cars fuel,and electric, it is important in lights, and appliances all around. why would you not want less watts and get the same or more torque or rpms.

>>1575099
Because for some reason Americans think it's muh freedumb to waste the Earth's resources because they're "not poor".

>>1575073
well I'm good with the boss who usually just prices things at a couple of dollars for staff members.

>>1575087
>>1575099
Things can only be so efficient. A corded brushed AC motor in a drill is probably near max efficiency, for the loads they are designing the drill for.
That form factor hasnt changed in so long, there isnt that much you can really do.

The story would be different for brushless, at which point you get into companies refuses to go brushless corded. They want the battery sales, and its a good selling point.

>>1575113
Yeah buy a new cordless tool and new batteries every month instead of using a few more watts of electricity.

That will surely save the planet.

should a home use hobby circular saw be bought cordless or corded?

I don't even know what I would want to do with it yet

>>1575151
A hobby home user should have a corded drill and a corded circular saw.
Dont let the battery salesman tell you otherwise. Youll use these things like 3-4 times a year, you dont need to deal with a battery.

>>1575150
>Who gives a shit about efficiency on a corded tool?
>Yeah buy a new cordless tool and new batteries every month
You see what your mistake was? Yes, that's right, Anon was being dismissive about efficiency on a corded tool, nothing to do with cordless or batteries at all. Never mind, Anon, no-one knows who you are so you don't need to feel bad.

Why don't any of these companies sell a wall adapter for their cordless tools?
It should just be a DC converter with the battery connection on the end, no?
Sounds like exactly the kind of thing they'd be into making for 10$ and selling for 50$

>>1575159
>nothing to do with cordless or batteries at all
It's a thread about cordless vs corded, you retard.

>>1575162
Anon's comment wasn't. Anon's comment was about efficiency in corded tools.
>you retard
Not an argument.

>>1575160
>batteries die
>single $50 transaction for a converter to keep that drill running for many more years
>you subsequently dont buy more batteries
>you subsequently buy a new drill when the new $69 battery purchase isnt worth it anymore

Same reason they dont play with corded drills, cannibalizing their battery sales.

>>1575166
I am that same anon, you moron.

Saving a few watt with a cordless tool that your charger burns up anyway doesn't matter to anyone.
Stop fellalting the efficiency of cordless tools when it only matters in comparison with other cordless tools.

And definitely stop pretending that buying new fancy tools and buying new batteries every 6 months is doing the planet any favours.

>>1575169
Sure, but you still need batteries for using the cordless drill cordlessly. If people were willing to haul extension cords around to save on batteries they'd just be buying corded drills in the first place
You're probably not wrong, I'm sure they've spend tens of thousands of dollars doing market analysis and shit to figure out whether it would be profitable or not, but it seems like such a basic idea that at least one of the companies would decide it would give them enough of an edge to be worth doing it.

>>1575175
>Stop fellalting the efficiency of cordless tools
>And definitely stop pretending that buying new fancy tools and buying new batteries every 6 months is doing the planet any favours.
When did I do any of this?
>I am that same anon, you moron
I'm not the same Anon you think I am. Now who's the moron? lmfao

>>1575182
ebin troll

>>1574766
>>1574862
>>1574867
>>1574880
It is called "peak" meaning what you get when you stall the motor to a dead stop and don't let go of the trigger. Doing that drains the battery like you shorted it with a wrench and can fuck up the drill and make the battery go nuclear. But, they still advertise whatever peak they can slap on it for bragging rights. 1800w for 1 second is still 1800w after all.

>>1574910
Hey, faggot. You are talking about me, I'm the one who posted >>1574512 and it seems you can't read for shit. The 100a I mentioned, in that post, was for wall power, not cordless.

>>1575658
>1800w for 1 second is still 1800w after all.

I am an electrical engineer and this still confuses me, so don't feel bad

>>1575662

?
No one was talking to you.
see
>>1574862
>>1574867

>>1575670
>get btfo
>panics

LOL Poor, kid.

>>1572084
Hilti are good corded drills.

Though I milwaukee 12v cordless at work a lot and they're fine.

>>1572593
I worked 6 month at a shop where we had pneumatic grinders and it was bliss

what does /diy/ think of the new Dewalt Atomic series of tools?

seems like too little too late compared to other compact tool lines. the Makita Subcompacts are slick and versatile, the 12v CXT tools are super small compared to the competition and the M12 Fuel tools have 90% of the power with a substantially larger lineup of tools with a very loyal customer base.

>>1578747
You’re forgetting the main thing- people who already have Yellow 20V batteries. As well as anybody who had a bad experience with Makita and doesn’t want to buy into a limited 12v lineup but wants more powerful tools. The market is the same market Makita is targeting, but ones who haven’t already bought the black tools.

Would be cool to see them make some babby 1000mAh packs for those tools, like using CR123 size Li-Ion cells.

If I had Yellow tools and didn’t already have a 12V setup, I would def be lookin at that hackzall. The other ones look straight too, especially for plumbing, HVAC, or sparky guys who don’t want to carry 80lbs of power tools around a big building.