/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1525574
>on a side note, if anyone has a 3d printable model of an abyssal demon I'd suck your dick

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2493507

>>1525618
cool

Hey guys!
I need a 3d printed gyroscope add-on for a camera phone.
Does it exit? do any of you guys have the file ready for printing?
Thanks!

>>1525654
uhh wtf no
do you even know how those things work?

>>1525654
Can't tell if non-native speaker or just retarded, but no, you cannot print one.

What you want is a stabilizer/gimbal, which uses electrical gyroscopes along with motors, computer chips, a battery, all that shit you can't really print. You're looking at 100-200 dollars for a cheap phone-worthy one.

>>1525675
It looks like the ender 3 pro only goes up to ~80 so no ABS

>removed the best source of info about additive manufacturing
>added shilling

Nice thread, Chang.

Anyone got some exp with the anycubic 3d delta printer? I'm considering getting one over the cetus mk3. I'm looking for something rugged with a small footprint. How's the overall print quality, compared to a carthesian machine?

Anybody have experience with banggood preorder? Im thinking about getting the ender3 and it says "Available on Pre-Order Stock due to arrive on January 6 2019" to have it ship from a US warehouse.

>>1525727
Thats because of the design of the magnetic bed, its a thin sheet that can lose its magnetic properties if heated too much. The regular ender 3 now comes with a removable sheet that lifts away from the bed with the build surface. It's possible to put the magnetic surface on that and just swap it out when you need to print abs if it's that important to you. The ender 3 pro might also come with a removable sheet now too, but I really don't know.

>>1525561
>Alright i just measured my bed's resistance and if i'm reading my meter correctly it's around 3 ohms so 48W which is plenty fine though i could lower it down to 36 by adding a 1 ohm resistor, couldn't i?
I=12V/4R = 3A
V = 3A * 1R = 3V
P = 3V * 3A = 9W

You could with something like a cement resistor, but you'd be wasting 9W and the heatbed would only get 27W out of the 36.

>>1525770
cetus is gonna be like thrice better though
on the other hand wait for my 200x200x240 footprint 120x120x120 print area printer to finish development, it'll probably offer you a better printer in a similar price range

>>1525816
yeah you're right, if i can do it in hardware there's no point anyway

>>1525618
Holy fuck that's going in my que, right after I finish building an enclosure for my printer. Fuck these cold winter temps.

>>1525752
Are you talking about the book that was in the old pasta? I took it off cuz I figure people would rather watch a youtube video or something. Not many people want to read books these days when they can get the same info else where. Whoever makes the new thread in a few weeks can add it back if they want. And explain the shilling plz.

>>1525774
Banggood regularly has "preordering" when they are waiting for stock to come back in. They usually only add the option a week or two before the item is to come back in stock. I've never personally preordered anything from them though, I usually just wait.

>>1525848
I've killed tens of thousands of abyssal demons in my day so I'd recognize one anywhere, but my problem with printing out low-poly models is that they don't look like anything unless you put a lot of effort into painting them or a lot of effort into re-detailing them in Maya or ZBrush or whatever.

The exception to this is low-poly Pokemon since they are so extremely recognizable

Also now I'm getting nostalgic for scything abbys

>>1525654
Check this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sZZmddJUJ_g

>>1525826
>200x200x240 footprint 120x120x120 print area
That seems to be the same size as the Tantillus and smaller than the Ultimaker 2go

Why is it that Triangle Lab can come up with a nice injection molded BMG extruder, yet the original is still a shitty SLS printed thing?

>>1525609
That's a 3D Penter.

>>1525900
I love seeing kit printers with this aesthetic but I know if I ever tried to build one I would just end up in tears.

>>1525987
That looks like a baby stroller
Or maybe a shopping cart

I'm the anon from the last thread who got the OctoPrint for Christmas and someone warned me that printing over the Pi can cause problems if your internet is spotty

Sure-fucking-enough, I started a WiFi print last night and woke up to a pile of spaghetti this morning. Luckily OctoPrint lets me upload directly from my computer to the SD card plugged into the printer so I'm going to use that from now on. Even as I make this post my shit American internet is browning out.

I won't be able to do any Z-hop timed timelapses but I wasn't able to do that anyway since OctoPrint will only recognize and skip over integer-sized mm Z-hops (???). A 1mm Z-hop seems excessive.

>>1525609
Fused deposition modelling sucks! Death to FDM!
http://cfg.mit.edu/content/multifab-machine-vision-assisted-platform-multi-material-3d-printing

>>1525906
There was an interview with them, it allowed them to make small iterations at the start, keep in mind they were actually making it workable and had to iron out all problems first, and didnt just had to copy a design that worked. They are also SLSed with nylon, it is more ridig and durable than the cheap chinese injection molded one. Got one from trianglelab and a friend got a genuine one running for over a year. Genuine one feels better, trianglelab seems to be off and more wobbly a tiny tiny bit off everywhere in comparison, but i aint going to spent so much extra for the genuine one. Havent build it in yet, but if it works as well as their titan copy i am fine with it.

>>1526039
>Luckily OctoPrint lets me upload directly from my computer to the SD card plugged into the printer so I'm going to use that from now on.
Is this a new feature? Does it work with Matlin?

>>1525900
looks pretty neat

What are some good high current, low voltage connectors for heated beds and shit?
I want to get away from screw terminals.
And I hate shit like Molex, which require a lot of force to disconnect.

I like aviation plugs but they all seem to be rated for high voltage and low current.

>>1526154

Is that the connection at the bed or the control board?

>>1526158
You mean where the socket would be?
It would need to be an in-line connection.

>>1526161

I mean are you referring to the end where the bed cable plugs into the board or the end where the cable plugs into the bed (where it;s often just directly soldered). Or do you mean a wire-to-wire connector?

>>1526165
Yeah, wire-to-wire, it's what I meant with "in-line".

>>1526167

Got it. Have you tried cable shoes? I've also seen people recommend Wago connectors a lot but i haven't tried them.

>>1526154
the Deans Ultra Plug is rated 50A and has worked nicely for me the past 6 years.

>>1526169
They're both only for single wires.
I want something nice that requires zero attention to polarity or anything.

>>1526172
Looks good, gonna try some chink knockoffs.

>>1526175

Polarity doesn't matter at all on a heatbed but >>1526172's suggestion might work. I haven't seen that type before.

>>1526175
yeah one of those plugs meant for RC cars and planes etc. might do you good

>>1526178
>Polarity doesn't matter at all on a heatbed
Matters for the LED on it (I know some beds have an additional reversed one but mine doesn't).
And I might want to replace other connections too.

>>1526094
>Genuine one feels better
Grass is always greener on the other side. Plus, they could have it SLS printed in China as well.

If the Chinese can make it injection molded and sell it for cheaper than the original thing... One of my clients is talking about setting his base in Shenzhen. It would be great if every country had their own Shenzhen, with cheap manufacturing and easy shipping to everywhere

>>1525987
That thing you posted seems like it would be a nightmare to build, the one I posted is just a few acrylic panels, if you ditch the nonessential parts it's very simple. It needs a bed with a quick-release and timing belts, then it becomes a 10/10 mini printer.

>>1526154
XT60 or deans.

What are some decent prebuilt printers nowadays?
I built my i3 in early 2014, I played around with it a lot. Its sat in storage for the last year and a half and its still riddled with little nagging problems I dont want to deal with anymore.

I have more money, and a lot less time than I had 5 years ago so im considering just getting something more plug and play.

>>1526188
Depends on where you live

>>1526183
honestly every printer ought to have direct drive and the ultimaker setup doesn't work too well for that

>>1526188
prusa mk3 or mk2

>>1526191
USA

>>1526202
Usually Stupid and Annoying

>>1526202
I'd get this if I lived in US of A and had the cash.

>>1526200
It actually does, I'll post a pic in the next post

>>1526200
It only needs 8mm rather than 6mm rods

>>1526200
And still the ultimaker design beats everything at speed that is out there. Friend is printing 70mm/s with his ultimaker selfbuild while i am happy to run 50mm/s before the quality degrades too much on my prusa style printer.

>>1526211

Man, IDEX is always so expensive innit... I'm currently designing an IDEX system for my Mendelmax and so far the most expensive part has been getting a controller that can handle 7 stepper drivers. I've seen some tool changing setups with an electromagnet but i suspect they require a light bowden setup.

>>1526220
>has been getting a controller that can handle 7 stepper drivers

Rumba handles 6, which is enough if you drive both z motors with the same driver

>>1526217
I once tried to do 250mm/s on my self-built h-bot and while it moves just fine, the extrusion is awful. I hope to "solve" (not a problem because I usually don't print that fast) this with a BMG clone or some other 1:3 extruder.

>>1525609
What do you guys do with all your waste plastic and failed prints?

>>1526233
Keep it for the diy filament extruder I want to build some day.

So my Printbite arrived, and it's shit. When I print PLA on it nothing sticks, the first layer starts warping before it's finished laying out, and that's assuming it lays out at all, which doesn't happen half the time. I got way better results with blue tape. Why do so many people shill this stuff, is it only PLA it can't do and ABS and PET works great on it? I have a spool of PET I'm planning to switch to when my PLA is used up, but it still feels ridiculous to have to lay out blue tape on my Printbite to get anything done.
Video is some other guy having the same problem. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IdbV0ZOK_4A

>>1526233
I have a bin I throw them in and use them as examples when trying to explain 3d printing to someone. Bin's getting full though, might have to empty it.

>>1526235
Just use Kapton - works great with PLA and PETG.

I will never stop shilling it.

>>1526235
Glass + Glue stick 4lyf
Any sort of "perfect 3d printing build plate" is a meme

>>1526227

I ended up getting a Duet on black friday as the price was not too far off and you get a 32bit controller with trinamic drivers and wifi. Only downside is that it comes with 5 outputs so i'll need to break out the header to add a 6th motor.

>>1526235

I've shilled printbite on here as it has worked for me. You gotta get the bed hot enough, otherwise it refuses to stick. I print mostly with PETG and it won't work at all below 80C but at something like 85-90 it's flawless. Try 70C for PLA and report back. You might also have the bed-nozzle distance a tiny bit too high, the stuff relies on microperforations instead of surface adhesion.

>>1526235
Why does he have printbite on glass on a heated metal bed? His problem is probably that the metal bed heats up, but that the glass and printbite remain cold. I hope you didn't do that.

>>1526242
I've been trying it with 60 degrees. I'll try to print a calibration dice and check back. My adhesion is literally so shit that I can't even print those little dice without warping and failing halfway through.
>>1526243
No, fortunately I'm not that dumb. My printbite is directly on an aluminium heated bed, I've checked with a laser thermometer and the value the printer thermometer claims is accurate on the surface. It might still be a heat issue, like the other guy said.

>>1525609
>https://www.3dhubs.com/best-3d-printer-guide

Why does /diy/ always post this, but then when you ask about it they just...hurp durp, buy the Prusa i3?

>>1526248
because the OP is outdated but everybody is too lazy to update it

>>1526248
That guide recommends the prusa i3 though.

how do you run two motors with one driver?

>>1526256

The same, you just pair the wires into the same input - blue with blue, red with red, black with black etc.

>>1526233
Landfill because I know it will all be incinerated some 200 years into the future

>>1526248
>when you ask about it they just...hurp durp, buy the Prusa i3?
The Prusa i3 Mk3 is actually not a good choice right now, it's middling in almost every aspect. Not as cheap and easy as an Ender 3/CR-10, the chinkshit i3 clones are even better value, and if you want a good printer out of the box you're better off spending a bit more money than on a name-brand Prusa.

>>1526259
ah i see, do they sell adaptors for that or something?

>>1526261
idk about that
do you even get much more value from a lulzbot?

>>1526248
>Why does /diy/ always post this, but then when you ask about it they just...hurp durp, buy the Prusa i3?
Pic

>>1526254
this

>>1526264
Prusa mk3 has a long list of problems. If you want a Prusa, get the Mk2s.

>>1526274
Care to elaborate?

>>1526246
>>1526242
Yeah, I can't get it to adhere even with a hotter bed. Five attempts with a bunch of little tweaks, and all I get is a fat blob of plastic on the nozzle, while it prints perfectly fine on blue tape.
I'll finish off my PLA with blue tape and then try PET instead of bothering with this plastic wasting rubbish.

>>1526277
more heat!

>>1526278
Dude, I took it all the way to 90 and tried printing strings and tuning the Z while going and still couldn't get it to stick.

>>1526238
Try clear acrylic, mate

>>1526280
less speed!

>>1526292
lol at this point he's better off printing it directly on his aluminium heated bed

>>1526277

Have you checked the nozzle height? Maybe the first layer needs to be smashed in a little more

>>1526280

Stupid question, but have you tried giving the surface a wipe with some alcohol?

>>1526292
I'm running it at 40 on the first layer and 60 on the subsequent ones. I've tried as slow as 10 in the past and it didn't do shit. I can print just fine on blue tape all the way up to 70, if Printbite is this much worse I say fuck it.
>>1526295
That's what I was doing when I printed strings and manually adjusted the Z height. Started off so close that no plastic could come out, and when I got to the line height I normally use it adhered for about a centimetre before being ripped out. I'm done with this, I'll see if it's any good for PET when I run out of PLA.
>>1526297
Yes, I've wiped it down multiple times with soap, which is what the instructions say you should use. They explicitly say to avoid alcohol (and brake fluid...).

>>1526298
>Soap
Soap is specifically made to get stuff to not stick (to your skin). I wonder why your prints fail....

>>1526299
>We recommend use of disposable kitchen towel slightly dampened with a soapy solution while the bed is cold. Wipe clean, and then repeat with fresh kitchen towel as a secondary wipe. A non smearing window cleaner such as Windex can also be used.

>>1526298
what's the advertised benefit of this print surface?

>>1526301
>>1526298

Hmm, i've wiped mine down with medical ethanol and it's fine. Windex is alcohol too, have you tried that?

>>1526303

Prints stick when the bed is hot, pop off with no effort when it's cold. The surface finish on the bottom looks good too.

>>1526303
https://flex3drive.com/printbite/
It's the super-bestest at everything!!
>>1526304
I'll give ethanol a try, I guess. Soap seems like shit to me anyway.

>>1526305
doesn't glass offer the same benefits?

[Edition] Edition
Old thread: [Link to previous thread]
All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/ymwrYpjc

Need help with prints? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Bed & extruder temperature
>Print speed

>>1526318
This is my suggestion for the new OP, shit was getting way too long. Mainly looking for improvement on the pastebin right now, any and all comments are welcome:

https://pastebin.com/LyrQiAwE

>>1526248
Because one of the most common questions, which is asked multiple times per thread, is "guys what printer should I buy, I'm too cheap to get a good one and to fucking dumb to research it myself" and it gets tiresome to answer that question constantly.
>>1526252
I tried updating the OP when I made this thread but I put like 10 minutes of effort into it. If people post recommendations in this thread, then maybe the pasta will get updated next thread? I can't pull info out of my ass.

>>1526318
>>1526319
i mean i guess i can't argue against the ender 3 shilling but it still kinda leaves a bad taste in my mouth

>>1526318
>>1526319
ooh there's a standardised method for creating the collages at the end, that's pretty nice

>>1526324
>I tried updating the OP when I made this thread but I put like 10 minutes of effort into it. If people post recommendations in this thread, then maybe the pasta will get updated next thread? I can't pull info out of my ass.
Please see: >>1526318 and >>1526319, I put a bit of an effort into improving the OP, made a pastebin, etc. Any improvements are welcome.

>>1526325
If I told you 10 years ago you could buy a 3D-printer of this quality, for less than 200 USD, you'd be laughing in my face. The Ender 3 has very much pushed the market away from Prusa-kits to more polished end products that work with users with much less experience, for a lower price. I wish I got money everytime I had to recommend an Ender 3 to somebody, because it's simply the printer to recommend right now.

>>1526325
I don't think you understand what shilling means boiyo. Ender 3 isn't the only name tossed around, but it's the most common when people ask for cheap printers. You got a better suggestion? Then quit crying and make it.
>>1526318
>>1526319
The less info you have in the actual OP, the more the thread is gunna get shit up by people asking questions that are answered in the pastebin. Why you ask? Because people are lazy and dumb and the more work they have to do to get the info, the less likely they'll get said info. I'm not against having an official pastebin, but the OP needs more than that.

>>1526330
>better suggestion
uhh wait for my printer to finish development

>>1526330
>the OP needs more than that.
Alright, let's get it down to the basics then.
>What's wrong with my print
>What printer should I buy
>Where can I get free things to print
>What CAD should I use
That should cover 90% of all questions ITT.

What's the best printer to buy under 2500 USD?

>>1526316

I haven't had prints just pop off with glass, especially PETG gets so stuck on there that the print rips off some of the glass leaving craters. Only the mirror-finish is nice, if you somehow manage to get it to stick at all

>>1526337
Save up a few more dollars and get a Form 2

>>1526337
Buy 10 ender 3's and $500 worth of hatchbox PLA

>>1526340
>especially PETG gets so stuck on there that the print rips off some of the glass leaving craters.
USe hairspray for PETG, comes right off yet always sticks.
>if you somehow manage to get it to stick at all
Git gud, glass buildplates are easymode for adhesion.

>>1526342
based
>>1526337
four Prusa MK2S kits

>>1526340
oh yeah that PETG doesn't work with straight glass

>>1526340
It helps if you don't use a screw driver to get the print off

>>1526340
Thats not tempered glass, get a real tempered glass before you get something in your eye...

[Edition] Edition
Old thread: [Link to previous thread]
All the info you need about 3D-printing: [Link to pastebin]

>Need help with prints? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Bed & extruder temperature
>Print speed

>What printer should I buy?
Under 200 USD: Creality Ender 3
Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3 Mk3
Under 2500 USD: ?????????

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Solidworks, AutoCAD, etc. all works, but Fusion360 is free:
https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/

>>1526352
>Under 200 USD: Creality Ender 3
>Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10
>Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3 Mk3
Might as well include the MK2 to the under 1000 category
Also i guess add lulzbot or something to the next tier, that nerf gun printing guy had good experience with them, didn't he?

>>1526352
Looks good to me, but maybe add blender to that list on the bottom, since it's one of the most popular 3d modeling softwares, and maybe add a last updated date after "What printer should I buy?"

>>1526318
>The most common forms of 3D-printing for hobbyists right now are FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) and SLS (Stereolithography)

>SLS (Stereolithography)

>>1526363
>last updated date after "What printer should I buy?"
nice idea

So i burned some of my filaments.

PLA burns with a small aura like blue flame, white/gray smoke if visible at all. The more dye they have the more smoke you get, also more soot on the burning surface, sometimes yellowish flame. They smell sweetish.

PETG burns with a long bright yellow flame, with a lot of black smoke and soot. Smells like burnt plastic.... duh.

Ill burn a little more plastic when i get back to work, i have more PETG there.

>>1526358
>>1526363
>What printer should I buy? [Last updated: 30-12-2018]
Under 200 USD: Creality Ender 3
Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3 (Mk2 or Mk3)
Under 1500 USD: Lulzbot Mini

I don't think many people ITT have enough experience to recommend a specific 2-3K USD printer, and there's basically no demand for it judging by >>1526342 and >>1526344. I'll leave those tiers out unless someone has a compelling value proposition somewhere in that pricerange.

>>1526365
Apparently I subconsciously want SLS to be a common form of printing, I'll fix it in pastebin v2

>>1526371
>So i burned some of my filaments
Why though?

>>1526371
>>1526375
>Why though?

Probably this: >>1524758

>>1526372


>Buyers guide
>The best value printer to buy right now is the Creality Ender 3. Under 200 USD, bolts together easily and has print quality to rival much more expensive models. If you want a bit more print volume the Creality CR-10 is also a good pick.
>The old golden standard used to be the Prusa i3: based on the Reprap project they feature good print quality and components, but it's also much more expensive than the Ender 3 - which is exactly why the Ender is so damn good for it's price.
>Note that all printers, especially the good ones, get cloned by the Chinese in an instant. Banggood, Alibaba, etc. can therefore offer cheap imitations. This can be a bad thing (as can be anything on those sites), but that's not always the case.
>Some Chinese companies have evolved from making simple sopies to genuinely improving them and pushing the market further: Creality can be considered an example of this.

Seems legit.tiff.exe
You also removed Reprap links, IRC channel, general info etc. This seems like an attempt to capture the pasta for marketing purposes.

>>1526382
the prusa shilling is strong

>>1526382
Rewrite it then, it's not set in stone and does sound a bit shill-y now that I read it again a couple times.

General info is still there, even expanded on it quite a bit. No idea where the part on Reprap went, I even explained what the project is and what it's for but it's gone now. What IRC Channel? I haven't found any in the previous three OPs.

>>1526385
God, not even the Czech are safe from the onions smile.

so uhh instead of 12V 7A how about i go with 24V 3-4A?

>>1526402
sure, just need the right resistance for it.

>>1526404
ohhh... right
well i guess not really then

>>1526382
>This seems like an attempt to capture the pasta for marketing purposes.
There's always that one guy. Rewrite if you don't like it.

>>1526382
Here's a the open source part and a rewritten buyer's guide. Improvements are welcome, but I suspect you're just here to accuse me of shilling and not try and make things better.

>Open source community
Not just the slicing component can be open source: the entire printer you build can be. Several projects have existed that are at the foundation of the hobbyist 3D-printing movement, chief of which is the Reprap project. The Prusa i3 and it's clones are all based on Reprap architecture, meaning that most of the amateur level market consists of these things.

https://reprap.org/wiki/
https://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Machines
https://forums.reprap.org/
https://forum.duet3d.com/
#RepRap @freenode

>Buyers guide
For a more up to date version of this guide, always check the OP. Also, do your own damn research or you risk the fact that OP is shilling chinkshit meaning you end up with useless garbage.

Not too long ago the old golden standard used to be the Prusa i3. It offers great quality prints at a price well below 1000 USD, which was to be considered amazing at the time. A homebuilt Reprap could do the same, sure, but it was distruptive nonetheless. The i3 is not a perfect printer, but it's still a good benchmark to compare against.
Then came the Creality Ender 3: basically an improved i3 for a fraction of the price. It's probably the best value on the market right now, although it's still chinkshit and should be considered as such. Same goes for it's slightly larger sibling, the CR-10.

What is chinkshit you ask? Succesful printers like the Ultimaker, Prusa i3, Ender 3 or CR-10 get cloned within months and can then be found on sites like Banggood and Alibaba. Their quality can vary wildly, although their instruction manuals and warranty are almost universally useless. Some of the common ones are Anet, Anycubic, Dalai Lama, Creality, Geeetech, JGAurora, Tiananmen 1989, Tevo, Tronxy, Uyghur and Xiaomi.

>>1526420
Slight revision.

>Buyers guide
For a more up to date version of this guide, always check the OP. Also, do your own damn research or you risk the fact that OP is shilling chinkshit meaning you end up with useless garbage.

What is chinkshit you ask? Succesful printers like the Ultimaker, Prusa i3, Ender 3 or CR-10 get cloned in China within months and can then be found on sites like Banggood and Alibaba. Their quality can vary wildly, although their instruction manuals and warranty are almost universally useless, ergo: chinkshit. Some of the common ones are Anet, Anycubic, Dalai Lama, Creality, Geeetech, JGAurora, Tiananmen 1989, Tevo, Tronxy, Uyghur Autonomic Region and Xiaomi.

Not too long ago the old golden standard used to be the Prusa i3. It offers great quality prints at a price well below 1000 USD, which was to be considered amazing at the time. A homebuilt Reprap could do the same, sure, but it was distruptive nonetheless. The i3 is not a perfect printer, but it's still a good benchmark to compare against and is arguably the best printer you can buy for 1000 USD.
Then came the Creality Ender 3: basically an improved i3 for a fraction of the price. It's probably the best printer per dollar on the market right now, although it's still chinkshit and should be considered as such. Most printers in the 200 USD bracket are chinkshit though, and the Ender 3 is king of the shitheap.
The CR-10 is basically an upsized Ender 3 with some minor mechanical improvements: it's also arguably the best printer you can buy for under 500 USD - emphasis on arguably.
Do you want to spend more than 1000 USD? Are you really sure? Consider a Lulzbot or Ultimaker if you've got this much money to spare, or buy several of the aforementioned cheaper models.

https://www.3dhubs.com/best-3d-printer-guide [Outdated as per 1-1-2019]

It would be nice to include something about different kinematics like delta or corexy in the guide.

>>1526432
I'll include this then:
https://reprap.org/wiki/Mechanical_arrangement

>>1526434
>Open source community
Not just the slicing component can be open source: the entire printer you build can be. Several projects have existed that are at the foundation of the hobbyist 3D-printing movement, chief of which is the Reprap project. The Prusa i3 and it's clones are all based on Reprap architecture, meaning that most of the amateur level market consists of these things. Note that not all printers have to be cartesian-style (XYZ): the Reprap community has experimented with almost every different kinematics system under the sun, including extrremely complex ones and also every possible combination of the X-, Y- and Z-axis.

https://reprap.org/wiki/
https://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Machines
https://reprap.org/wiki/Mechanical_arrangement
https://forums.reprap.org/
https://forum.duet3d.com/
#RepRap @freenode

I want to thank /3dpg/. I wouldn't have built this without you anons being here. Still a work in progress.
I built it around 500mm rods based on the i3 rework with the basic printed parts bought on ebay for $20.
Currently working on manual mesh leveling for a bigger bed than the 2"x3" piece of aluminum I was using. With 8x500mm rods, there's about 0.2mm deflection at the center. Going to try unheated glass first because an 8"x10" picture frame is cheap and can be bought locally, and other anons have said they've had success with unheated glass beds.
1/4

>>1526382
Hmmm... Seems like creality has been shilled in these threads as well. Any problems anons have with them are downplayed and mentions of Prusa are quick to be met with posts like this one:
>>1526385
This is what shilling looks like. Appeals to emotion rather than reason and tries to discredit the poster rather than the post contents

>>1526439
2/4

>>1526440
First modeling with openScad and one of my first prints
3/4

>>1526442
Draft print and installed part to fix my refrigerator door
4/4

>>1526439

Man it makes me happy to see the old RepRap spirit is still alive with all the chink clones and shillings these days. Why did you go with 500mm rods?

>>1526449
Found them for about $10 iirc. Thinking I could use this thing for other stuff like drawing a layout on a piece of wood, steel, or posterboard, make precision measurements ect.

Here's the latest version of the new OP, comments are welcome: https://pastebin.com/aBHs7V3X

[Edition] Edition
Old thread: [Link to previous thread]
All the info you need about 3D-printing: [Link to this pastebin]

>Need help with prints? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Bed & extruder temperature
>Print speed

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 30-12-2018]
Under 200 USD: Creality Ender 3
Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3 (Mk2 or Mk3)
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot or Ultimaker
Buyer beware: some chinkshit clones are garbage. Some can be genuinely good, though.

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Blender, Solidworks, AutoCAD etc. all works, but Fusion360 is free:
https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/

>>1526459
Fusion360 is not really free, It's botnet spyware and you are the product. Where's openScad and freeCad?

I don't know anything about Creatily products but I am familiar with shilling and it raised an eyebrow to say the least

>>1526459
>Blender, Solidworks, AutoCAD etc. all works, but Fusion360 is free:
Implying blender isn't free. It's FOSS

>>1526468
>Fusion360 is not really free, It's botnet spyware and you are the product.
Do you have any info an exactly what info are they collecting? Or why do you call them botnet spyware?

>>1526468
>Where's openScad and freeCad?
In the pastebin, where they don't clutter up the OP since they aren't as popular as the other CAD programs mentioned. Apparently some people don't read the pastebin.

>I don't know anything about Creatily products
I've worked with about 10 different printers by now and they're quite good. Not perfect, but good enough and I don't know of a better printer at those pricepoints. Do you?

>>1526471
Didn't know that:
>What CAD software should I use?
Solidworks, AutoCAD etc. all works, but Fusion360 & Blender are free:
https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/
https://www.blender.org/

>>1526340
Print the first layer a bit taller, don't squish it into the glass

>>1526474
>why do you call them botnet spyware?
I read their privacy policy.
They use 3rd party advertisers and track the sites you visit and your useage of fusion360. They combine this info with info from other sources.
>We collect information about the applications that you use and how you use them
>we combine your personal data, as described above, with information from public sources and other companies (such as our channel partners [resellers], business contact databases, and enrichment service providers), in accordance with applicable law.
>we work with other service providers. These companies are located all over the world
>We work with one or more advertising networks, which are our Ad Partners, who use Cookies or other technologies to collect information in order to serve you ads and help us track results. Such information may include the websites you visit, the mobile apps you use, the preferences you may provide us as your application provider, your IP address, your device ID, and information about your browser.
>Our Ad Partners deliver ads for us and may combine the information collected or obtained from us with other information they have independently collected from other websites and/or other online or mobile products and services relating to your browser's activities across their network of websites.
https://www.autodesk.com/company/legal-notices-trademarks/privacy-statement

>>1526495
so uhh what exactly do they track?
all the things i do online?
how can they do that?

>>1526495
Do they do that only when Fusion360 is open or all the time, if you have Fusion360 installed?

>>1526459
>AutoCAD
At this point you could just stop fucking up the pasta

>>1526498
>how can they do that?
Ad partners
Google, facebook, ect. I imagine
How you use a drawing program could be valuable info to those whose bread & butter is influencing behavior,

>>1526506
Alright, unfuck it then. Goodnight.

>>1526495
>I read their privacy policy.
New Euro regulations practically force all of this disclosure, it's nothing that wasn't there before. If you want out of the hornet, please close your PC.
>Implying 4chan visitors aren't monitored by three letters agencies without your permission anyways

>>1526498
>so uhh what exactly do they track?
Everything. You have an internet connection, you gave them permission, they can see most of your stuff. Even if you didn't give them permission, other parties can still invade your privacy.

>>1526505
Yes.

>>1526508
The main motivation for Fusion360 spying on you is to check if you're using any of their other products illegally, like Inventor. At that point they can send you a big fat bill to the tune of several thousand USD.

>>1526468
>Fusion360 is not really free, It's botnet spyware and you are the product.
Even if this was true who cares

>>1526512
>Just give up, it's hopeless anyway

>>1526468
>>1526474
>>1526486
>>1526495
>>1526498
>>1526505
>>1526508
>>1526512
>>1526524
Well it's a good thing that opt-out exists eh?

>>1526510
anon ignore the idiots, you're doing a good job
the autistic don't like change

>>1526528
EU law says that this needs to be opt-in.

>>1526536
thank god i live in the EU

Creality Ender 3 owner here. Never buy one on Ebay.

>>1526541
Why

>>1525850
>youtube video
>watch some brainless turd blather for an hour what he could have showed and concisely explained in less than 10 minutes
Videos were a mistake.
YouTube was a mistake.

>>1526548
Don't forget while his brat cries in the background and his wife hoovers, plus a few "tax" shots of his cats thrown in just to infuriate someone trying to get information out of the video.

>>1526546
Some greentext
>Buy "new unopened" CE3 on ebay
>Doesn't ship for a week
>When it does ship, it arrives a week late
>In the wrong fucking state
>Raise hell with Ebay, who in turn raises hell with seller
>2 weeks later it arrives in a box that had been through two wars and a famine
>It's a used frame with a new package of bolts
>Everything that was pre-assembled was done incompetently
>Spend 2 days carefully assembling the unit, googling every problem it had, playing in the menus, trying different PSUs, rerouting wires, adjusting rollers, and generally unfucking the entire mess with a picture-book instruction manual that had less thought put into it than the ones from a child's Lego set
>When I finally got it to move nicely along all 3 axes and tried the print on the SD card it came with - it only had only come with enough filament do 1/3 of it
>The micro-sd to usb adapter only works sometimes and has to be un and re-plugged constantly
So yes. The experience was unpleasant.

>>1526541
I've had pretty good luck with ebay once I realized how to intrepret the seller ratings
>99%-100%
Good to go
>98%-99%
Proceed with caution
><98%
Don't even

Bought all the parts but lumber and a couple misc hardware parts for this from various sellers on ebay
>>1526439
Only had 1 problem with insufficient packaging (motors of all things) which the seller made right with a bit of haggeling and a threat of just resolving it through ebay

>>1526548
I KNOW. Sucks to look for info sometimes and you have to dig through video links to try to find some damn text that you can skim to find what you're looking for

>>1526573
I have taken to ebay the same way my fingers take to a hot plate. I get burned every time so I don't use it. At least the first 3rd of the dog statue came out pretty good. Now I'm waiting for more filament and an SBC to run the whole thing through octoprint.

>have a hard time getting print to stick to bed
>fuck it, order A4 sheets of blue tape from ebay
>finally arrive
>start printing
>adheres perfectly
>halfway through the print the corners start curling up
>the print is still stuck firmly to the tape, but the glue holding the tape to the bed has given up
>fml
>finish print anyway because it's not the end of the world if a few corners curl up
>can't get the fucking thing off
>fuck it, tear the tape off with it
>tear the tape off of the print
>tape simply tears around the plastic
>fml
How am I supposed to get this tape off when it has now become a part of my print? Am I doomed to forever print with rafts?

>>1526582
nigga get a steel spatula, heat up the bed, and peel that shit off
i suppose the tapes adhesive doesn't like high temps

>>1526582
Should of used a glue stick™

>>1526582
Enjoy the sticky bottoms of your prints as a feature! I made a vase that ripped the tape like you described, and the glue was still strong enough that I could place it sideways on walls. It stayed up all day and scared me awake when it finally popped off in the middle of the night.

I wanna buy a 3d printer but can see me only using it a couple times until I quit using it. Anyone have any convincing arguments for getting one?

>>1526646
dildos
buttplugs
nerf accessories you can sell for $$$
anything else you imagine

>>1526646
There's always bound to be another thing you'll need printed eventually. Right now I need prescription lenses for my Rift. I can just print the frame and get $12 glasses with circular lenses and pop them out.

>>1526651
Sounds lame, is the creality a good printer or is it cheap shitty chinese garbage?

>>1526646
So don't buy one. If you only need a single thing or two you'll come off cheaper buying them from a printing service, and there are dudes on reddit willing to print commissions even cheaper than that.
A few years ago when the hype peaked loads of people bought printers, printed a set of spare parts and calibration boats, and then shoved the printer into their garage to rot. Don't waste your money if you don't think you'll use the printer after the first excitement wears off.

>>1526654
the latter, but printers are such simple machines that it'll probably work just fine

>>1525727
nimma you dont want to print abs anyway, yes you can get glass smooth anal penetrators like pic related but it requires a fucking lot of work to get everything working consistently

Ethanol didn't fix my printbite. I'm officially done with trying to print PLA on it.

>>1526220
>7 steppers
How? X, Y, two for Z, two for extruders is 6 - what am I missing?

>>1526784
You need a second X motor for *independent* dual extrusion

>>1526646
I would honestly say it's only worth it if you have an interest in learning 3d design. If the only thing you ever print are other people's thingiverse models then there's no reason to own one. That said, I love my reliable ender 3 and use it all the time even if it is chinese garbage. Look up some tutorials on fusion 360 and see if thats something you could see yourself getting into. Also buy a pair of calipers, theyre essential for designing parts.

>>1526784
>>1526785

Yeah there's two X axes, thats why i said 7 there. Though 6 is enough because you normally use a single driver for the two Z motors.

>>1526220
>>1526812

>>1526459
>>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 30-12-2018]
>Under 200 USD: Creality Ender 3
>Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10
>Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3 (Mk2 or Mk3)
>Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot or Ultimaker
>Buyer beware: some chinkshit clones are garbage. Some can be genuinely good, though.
Funny how nobody has commented on this part.

>>1526358
>that nerf gun printing guy had good experience with them, didn't he?
Yes, I have seven of them. They're really reliable.
If you do run into anything you cannot fix yourself you can ship the whole printer back to lulzbot for refurbishment.

And on the topic of refurbishment, they sell older refurbished ones for $1k. I bought three of mine that way.

>>1526372
>I don't think many people ITT have enough experience to recommend a specific 2-3K USD printer
My workplace bought a MakerGear M3, and frankly I don't think it's worth the list price. It's sturdy and pretty reliable, but relatively outdated compared to its competition. I also do not like the extruder setup, which makes changing filament difficult. AND worse still when you pause a print the drive motors DO NOT lock up, so if you bump the platform at all while changing filament or fixing any other issue you've manually caused a layer-shift during the pause.

>>1526923
>when you pause a print the drive motors DO NOT lock up
Holy fucking shit what? That's plain inexcusable in this age.

>>1526842
>Funny how nobody has commented on this part.
i mean it's just the truth isn't it

>>1526913
could you tell me what sets them apart from other printers made with the same methods, ie. printed parts, standard aluminum extrusions, steel shafts etc.? From what i've gathered from pictures is that they're just all around more beefy, like the shafts are thicker, 12mm maybe? etc. anything else?

>>1526926
>>1526923
Change that in gcode you dingles

Has anyone tried filling an airbrush with acetone to smooth prints? I've never liked using acetone "baths" because of the amount of shrinkage that happens, but maybe if you blow acetone vapors over the specific bad parts of the print, it wouldn't cause the whole part to shrink. Only reason I'm asking is because a kit with a pump goes for ~$100 on amazon and I don't want to drop that much money if it's a dumb idea.

>>1527028
Why not just go over the print with paper towels/cotton swabs soaked in acetone?

>>1527031
That's what I do now, but it leaves visible strokes in the plastic, and the cotton gets gunked up really fast, making a mess, and also leaves uneven blobs some times that are hard to smooth out.

How realistic of a kinematics setup is pic related?
the thicker rod is 20mm and the thinner rods are 12mm
the bed is 300x300

>>1527038
Would probably work just fine: I'm going to guess thick rod is Y, the two thin rods are X and Z is the stepper at the bottom. I'd thicken up the Z-axis Ultimaker-style unless you're not going over 200mm, or use several Z-axes. Moving the X axis motor over to the right side wth a corresponding thicker rod for that Y-axis would also clean up the packaging a bit. I'd also consider an elaborate belt drive system with the X axis motor positioned the the right rear because right now the X axis motor is part if the carriage weight which should always be minimised.

>>1527043
The reason why i put the motor on the axis is because i'm sorta dubious about long belts but yeah two steppers and those long 12mm rods on one axis might be too much weight, a prusa style setup is probably more realistic

>>1527028

How about trying it out with a windex bottle or something similar first to see how well it works?

>>1527028
Shooting a mist of highly inflammable liquid into the air! What could go wrong...

>>1527056
It'll be no worse than standing next to an open container of petrol.

>>1527063
The petrol isn't well mixed with the air there except for the little bit that evaporates.
It becomes a lot more dangerous when you mist it into the air.

>>1527067
That's true. Each droplet will have its entire surface area exposed to the air, so it can evaporate and saturate the air extremely quickly.

>>1527006
>Change that in gcode you dingles
Then it's an issue they ship the printer with, because the Makergear M3 comes with an attached octoprint server and a pre-loaded profile for the printer that lacks that portion of code for the pause function.

>>1526992
>could you tell me what sets them apart from other printers made with the same methods
1. Everything is overbuilt. My oldest printer has over 5,000 hours of printing on it and I haven't replaced anything that broke in a way that wasn't my fault.
2. They use their own printers for production.
3. Filament change-out with their extruder design is really fast.
4. It wasn't designed for 1.75mm filament (intended for 3mm), but it will print with it anyways.
5. Auto-leveling (albeit probably one of the dumbest kinds).
6. Originally went with it because it's a much more enclosed frame, so it's easier to unplug and moved around than other printers in the price range.
7. Core components and replacement parts are easier to get a hold of quickly through resellers like Amazon. If needed I can get an extruder assembly or buildplate with next-day or two-day shipping through Amazon.
8. Warranty
9. Wide variety of default profiles, so it takes less than 15 minutes to pull it out of the box and start printing with whatever material you want.
10. Delta Power Supply
11. Aftermarket enclosures for them are fairly cheap.
12. Whitepapers and docs. If you do a little bit of digging you can find out how any individual part is produced or assembled. So if you don't like any specific thing about the printer you can edit the STL files they have available to accomplish whatever changes you want. I dug a little bit and figured out how they make the nozzle cleaning pads (part of the auto-leveling routine) and I now produce them in bulk. I can make 300 of them for $5 in materials in almost no time invested. They normally sell them in packs of 5 for $10.

>>1527083
Don't they vibrate an awful lot when on flimsy shelves like those?

>>1525609
I don't want to buy anyone's 3d printer. I want to make my own buying universal parts for under 1000.00$, can I?

>>1527028
I use acetone to smooth prints all the time

This is the only reason I don't use an airbrush
>>1527056
It just seems like a bad idea. If I were outside with a 100' extension cord and a fire extinguisher I'd try it.

>>1526459
I've researched into all of these, it seems like I'd need to buy one to really be able to build one from scratch, but why isn't building from scratch one you understand how these work, the best option? Isn't it like building a PC, maybe more advanced, but fundamentally it would be better if you could buy universal parts and assemble a 3d printer that performs like the makerbot or the lulzbot.
Shouldn't
>Build your own 3d printer.
Be a greentext in the op?

>>1527091
Sure, that's what RepRap is about. Mendel and Prusa are decent printers that can be assembled from plywood and various hardware store components for less than a thousand bucks. The only components you'll need to order online are stepper motors and drivers, an arduino board, and a hot end. You should also order a heated bed online, it's a very convenient thing to have and not that expensive.

>>1527095
Is the only con to plywood really "looks less professional" or will the plywood expand/warp and affect the printer compared to the aluminum?

>>1527095
You can also build your own heated bed.
Etching PCBs isn't that hard and RepRap has plenty of information on it.

>>1527099
The plywood should be impregnated first, that will make it water resistant enough that as long as you keep it indoors and at a fairly constant temperature, it'll be fine. Don't just stash it into an unheated garage or shed or something over winter though. Acrylic can be stashed like that, but the problem with it is that the frame needs to be built a certain way or it'll wobble. Anet A8 for instance is a shoddy Prusa clone, and while it works well enough it's noticeably less sturdy than a plywood equivalent like the CTC DIY.
>>1527101
Don't those bend easily? I was told to just buy an aluminium heated bed since PCBs require a pane of glass, and glass doesn't play well with PET.

>>1527099
>>1527106
Just noticed you wrote aluminium, not acrylic.
Yeah, aluminium is better, but plywood is easier to work with and for a hobby printer you'll get a comparable result.

>>1527106
You can still mount an aluminium plate on top of it (with some Kapton or similar between it to insulate it)

>>1527091

That's what i did, and you certainly can. It's not the easiest way to go about it though - it involves a lot of going around local shops and ordering stuff online. Sometimes stuff doesn't quite fit together, especially with the printed parts. For example i had to jerryrig quite a few of them with zipties, superglue and screws just to get the printer working. I got them off a guy on IRC and the provided x-carriage in the set was meant for a hotend with totally different dimensions from the one i had already ordered and needed a large hole cut into it.

Looking back, it was a fun adventure though, certainly a more memorable experience compared to just buying some chinese crap, printing a few chotchkies and then getting bored.

niggers i am new to this shit.

would it be worth it for me to make art in a program and try to sell the fucking models

or would 3d printing cost me to much money to make anything

pls help me

>>1527091
Not counting the frame, you can build one for ~$300
I used this:
>https://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3_Rework_Introduction
pics of mine:
>>1526439

>starting a print tonight
>it won't finish until next year

Has anyone tried PCTPE filament?
http://taulman3d.com/pctpe-features.html#
Opinions on it?

>>1525609
>2012 start building a mendel and complete it - shit tier prints as the design wasn't particularly developed
>2015 purchase a basic i3 clone kit for more than it was worth (at least it had a metal frame)
>2017 Anet A8
>2019
It's time for an Ender 3 or CR10

What's the cheapest place to get one these days?

FuckGood or GayBeast?

>>1527056
Well considering I don't smoke, or have a fireplace next to my workbench, I don't think it would be any more dangerous than making/using an acetone vapor chamber? It's also about as dangerous as using a deodorant spray lol.

>>1527091
Yes you can, pretty easily for probably less than half of that price. If you know what you're doing and what parts you need that is.

>>1527153
I don't understand the question fully. Are you asking if people would buy models that you design? Or are you asking if people would buy models that you design and then print? The answer is yes to both, but this board isn't about business practices. However, I think that you'd have more luck selling the already printed models than selling the files due to websites like thingiverse.com, where there are tons of free files to download. How much money you make depends on how much time and effort you put into your work.

>>1527208
You have 3 printers that you're incapable of maintaining or fixing and you want to buy another?
As long as it's Sheality, eh?

>>1527207
I've printed with PushPlastic's PC-PBT, and it's pretty awesome. It's probably the strongest and most durable plastic I've every printed with. I'm not really familiar with plastic compositions besides the basics, so I don't know how similar PC-PBT is to PC-TPE though.

>>1527153
Only you can answer the first part, but printing isn't expensive. It's about $0.025/gram iirc and the slicing software has settings to make 'em semi-hollow to save time and material

>>1527220
>You have 3 printers that you're incapable of maintaining or fixing
??????????????????????


I actually donated the generic prusa clone and the Anet to a workshop at my old school.

It's a shame it wasn't a special-needs school, or I would have recommended it to your parents.

Are you going to answer the question now? or are you going to continue to post your sub 85 IQ gibberish. If you choose option 2 - just kill yourself instead.

>>1527220

Ender 3 is the Anet A8 of 2018 innit. Looks like Anon keeps falling for the meme of the year everytime instead of getting his shit together and fixing what they already have.

>>1527230
>falling for the meme of the year
why do you care?

>fixing what they already have
Printers are used for more than just printing new parts for themselves - some of us actually use parts for things that are useful.
I personally don't care about improving what I have when I have other things to work on - prototypes, casting forms and computational design research for my job.

>>1527229
Buy Prusa i3 frame for $100 or less. Put your mendal parts on it.
The time it took you to ask about "which site has the best price" you could have just looked for yourself, yet you're calling orhers retarded

>>1527240
>continues to post sub 85 IQ gibberish

You chose poorly. But thanks for your input.

This is supposed to be a flat wall, but as you can see it's anything but flat. I'm using new filament and am a newfag so I have no idea what I'm doing. Help.

>>1527229
>>1527241
>askes dumb question
>gets dumb answers
>"LOL Y R U SO DUM XD"

>>1527028
i tried it, the mist coming out of the brush is too fine, doesnt do shit
by far the best method i have found is just bringing a big pot up to ~80°c and injecting acetone into it, acetone should boil instantly and you'll see the vapour starting to fill up the pot, just fill up the pot, dont overflow it and dip your model, it will smooth out pretty much immediately but can keep it in for 30-69 seconds depending on exactly how smooth you want it
also importantly keep the print suspended in air for a couple of hours while the plastic sets again, it'll be pretty sticky so dont touch it or put it down anywhere

>>1527250
seems like it could be a couple of problems, you did get a few flat layers in the middle, do you have different start/end temperatures?

>>1527258
It's all basically stock. Nozzle 200 degrees all the time. Bed 60. This was draft quality with 0.2mm layers. I'm thinking I didn't set the quality right. I'm now printing https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2975429
with 0.1mm layers to see what happens.

>>1527250
Post a better pic, preferably with the print on a table and not hidden by a printer head.

>>1527266
first 0.2mm layers are safer, whats your print speed? try lowering it to 65 and 25 for outer layers. its slow but good for figuring out where the issue is. if lower speed fixes the issue you need to tension your belts and bearings correctly, if it doesnt solve the issue you might have a temperature or stepper issue
what slicer?

>>1527282
>what slicer
I've been jumping between octopi and Cura. I like the idea of controlling the printer through a wireless RPI. I fucking hate octopi right now but I also don't know how to use it.

>>1527315
i use octopi too, isnt the built-in slicer just cura anyway?
i use cura but not the built in one, i change settings too often and there is an octopi plugin for cura so you can just click sent to printer without having to manually upload the file

asking about slicer because i first tried slic3r and its fucked every single print

recommend starting with 1cm cubes and once they are looking good (x,y,z axis actually measures 1cm move to other basic shapes like circles to test overhang etc.. then move to actual print tests like benchy, temperature calibrations etc.
I printed at least 15 1cm cubes while I was tuning my machine

>>1527322
That's some good advice anon. Thanks. I did find the glass plate I was using didn't stick for shit, but the "terrible" plate that came with the E3 works just fine. I'm ~30 minutes into that thingiverse test and it's looking decent so far. I'm gonna let it run and hopefully I'll have something recognizable. Then I'll start on cubes.

>>1527322
attached is some of my first test prints that i still have lying around, had pretty much every problem in the book but eventually got it printing well

>>1527328
godspeed

>>1527253
>where's the best place to get a recommended printer

how is this a dumb question?

>>1527322
>x,y,z axis actually measures 1cm move
I hope you don't do this by changing steps/mm

>>1527106
>The plywood should be impregnated first, that will make it water resistant enough that as long as you keep it indoors and at a fairly constant temperature, it'll be fine
Actually you just buy naval plywood, which uses phenolic glue rather than PVA-based glue

>Don't those bend easily?
Yes they do, which is why you use a piece of glass on top of them. I made my own custom-sized PCB out of phenolic board (something more primitive than FR4) and it worked pretty well, I'll have a definitive one made in metalcore at PCBWay

>>1527038
You'd think it looks quite bad to have one of the axes driven from only one end, but some industrial machinery are designed just like that... but they're usually very though aluminum or steel. If you were using linear rails with 2 carriages on the driven side and one on the non-driven side + a looser rail on that side, and your gantry was a 5mm aluminum plate it would work just fine (I've tried this and know for sure it works)

>>1527101
>Etching PCBs isn't that hard

Etching is the easy part, making the etch resist is a headache. I admit I'm shilling for a certain chinese pcb company here, but having 10 heatbed PCB's made costs less than what I'd spent making them by hand considering time itself as a resource

>>1527355
>making the etch resist is a headache
um.
This is literally a 3d printing thread.

>buy some copper clad FR2 or whatever: £???
>Grab a pen that will serve as a resist: $3
>Print a spring loaded pen holder: $0.20
>bolt it onto your printer: $0.20
>trace out your pcbs on inkscape
>extrude single layer height and export to slicer
>print

Then throw that cunt in some ferric chloride.
3d printers are perfectly capable of drawing traces onto copper clad board

>>1527355
It takes some experimentation at first but toner transfer is pretty easy.

>>1527359
You use permanent pen to do some touching up on toner transfer, not for the entire thing. An easier way would be to spray paint the board and scrape the isolations using a box cutter. BTW, while toner transfer is a terrible method, it shouldn't be a problem for this since the traces are likely thick (2-3mm) and you can do the touch ups easier than if you were trying to do 12 mil traces

>>1527341
You didn't ask for the BEST place, you asked for the CHEAPEST place, which when the printer is already dirt cheap, makes you look like a dumbass.

>>1527359
cut out the middle man and mount a tiny spindle motor on it to mill it with your 3d printer

>>1527362
>spray and cut

Well if you wanted to you could sub the pen for a blade - but that's an awful way to do traces.
It's a ball ache to make it neat by hand or machine and you often don't have enough space between traces with just a single cut.

My dad taught me how to make PCBs back in the 90's when I was little, we used pen to touch up after silk screening, but for simple boards like a heat bed? it's just straight lines so you could do the entire thing in pen.

Hell. you'd be better off printing a template out of sticky vinyl and cutting that, sticking it and etching.

I wonder if you could tape a dremel with a flexible hose and end-mill to the X carriage of a printer and mill your own pcb ..... that would be fucking cool.

>toner transfer is shit
Well we can agree on that.

>>1527366
I didn't ask for anything because I'm not the same poster. lol chill out autismo.

>>1527372
>I wonder if you could tape a dremel with a flexible hose and end-mill to the X carriage of a printer and mill your own pcb ..... that would be fucking cool.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ILnc-7I0zQA

>>1527372
>Hell. you'd be better off printing a template out of sticky vinyl and cutting that, sticking it and etching.
That would work well with a silhouette

>end-mill
That's awful for PCB-milling (which is a bad idea in general), what you normally use for PCB is a v-bit, which would also work for scraping spray paint

>>1527372
>I wonder if you could tape a dremel with a flexible hose and end-mill to the X carriage of a printer and mill your own pcb
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3004773
This guy converts Ender 3s into Dremel-powered CNC mills.

So my gf got me a printer for Christmas and asked me top print Christmas ornaments for the tree.

>>1527392
yezus is this a 3mm tip? looks like itd chafe your globes and catch on your tinsel

>>1527395
No I think it's a 0.1mm layer height with a 0.2mm tip.

Just a really small.... tree... I guess

>>1527413
oh, hard to tell the scale
well the layers are pretty clean, next try print with abs and acetone smooth it, i have printed decorations like this and you get great results if youre willing to put a bit of effort into getting the process down
see my.. slightly disfigured snowman >>1526689

>>1527315
>I fucking hate octopi right now but I also don't know how to use it.
Here's octopi in lazy mode. Just add this as a plugin.

https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/slicer/

>>1527322
>i use octopi too, isnt the built-in slicer just cura anyway?
Yes, but you can add others and you can make profiles as well.

>>1527392
your dick is: small

>>1527372
>I didn't ask for anything because I'm not the same poster. lol chill out autismo.
>because we're suppose to be able to tell each anon apart

I have finally finished programming a working version of my own slicer. It surprisingly produced a working gcode for the first try, pic related.

I still need to do a lot: refactoring, top/bottom solid infill, retraction, couple more infill types, optimization of travel paths.

>>1527461
Nice, how do you get your 2d cross sections?
I know how to get the intersection between a line and a triangle mathematically, but how do you decide whats inside and whats outside? And what if the triangle is perfectly horizontal?

I tried to make one for SLA. Thats easier since it involves no movement planing. Failed anyways.

>>1527472
I load the mesh in opengl, and set the far and near clipping planes according to the slicing parameters.

This doesnt work for non-watertight models (well it works but it might produce shit gcode).

>>1527474
I tried this in processing with frustum() (described as "Works like glFrustum") but I only got the outlines.

>>1527094
Yeah you kinda want to have your own printer to build a printer but the thing is that you want all the proportions and dimensions and whatever to be proper and that can be an issue with cheap chinese printers.

>>1527477
I made a fragment shader that colors the front and back face differently. Also you could try inverting the normals, that might work too.

>>1527461
>finished programming a working version of my own slicer
But why? Many slicers already exist

>>1527495
>on diy
>why did you do thing

>>1527495
Why the fuck not?
I hate your kind btw.

>>1527498
>>1527497
programmer here
reproducing code that already exists is an amateur mistake
should spend your time working on something new and useful, how about an AI print time/ filament usage estimator
could train it with a set of gcode vs actual print time/ filament usage test data

>>1527502
Filament usage ought to be pretty straightforwards at least, just count how many rotations the extruder gear turns in the gcode lol
and shouldn't time be pretty easy as well? i mean idk anything about code really but you've got these instructions and you know how fast the machine is gonna execute them don't you?

>>1527502
jea, lets not learn valuable skills and instead shove an AI into something that can easily be calculated.

>>1527506
yeah i guess fair enough with counting extruder rotations
not sure if you can guarantee the execution time of every instruction
>>1527507
>lets reinvent the wheel instead of contributing something useful to the community
k

>>1527511
I mean i'll admit that the slicer calculated print time hasn't been all that reliable for me but i think that is because the hardware has higher speed restrictions than my slicer and i haven't bothered to adjust them yet

>>1527502
>amateur mistake
>programmer here
I bet you started programming by not reproducing a single line of already existing code. Good job i guess.

>>1527511
Who gives a shit about the community really? I did it for entertain myself because i like challenges and shared it because it seemed like its a novelty

>>1527513
fair enough, im just mad because i wasted so much of my time when i was a beginner making inferior copies of what already existed. do whatever you want, it seems like a fun project, just know that its a lot more fun making something new and getting appreciation /contribution from other people

>>1527515
Over a 3 year period i tried to produce at least a page of useful code every week to peoples repos to contribute. Guess how many of my pull request got accepted. Fuck other people really. Noone cares what i do out there, its all circlejerking.

>>1527502
>reproducing code that already exists is an amateur mistake
I'm drunk(happy neyw years /diy/) and didn't follow the convo, BUT
programming, for yourself, something that exists, is one of the best ways to learn programming.. You get to compair your solution with the accepted norm . Seeing a better solution to the one you put your heart into makes an impressiom you dont forget

>>1527498
>Why the fuck not?
I love you anon. You get it

>>1527348
in that setup wouldn't it be better to just use two carriages on one rail rather than two rails?

>>1527439
Looks like Someone is looking for an Internet fight.
Chill out. Autismo.

>>1527046
>i'm sorta dubious about long belts
Our large volume delta printer has three belt of 3 meters each, you''ll be fine.

If you put a sturdy frame beneath it all the weight itself will me fine. The problem is the inertia of the moving carriage: this is something you'll want to minimise if you want to prevent issues like rippling/ghosting in the design phase. If you do Prusa style you might as well buy a kit, the neat thing here is that it's your very own design.

Who's the sweatiest 3d printing onion boy on youtube?

I vote devin

>>1527579

>>1527359
Could you just print plastic directly onto the board as a resist?

>>1526332
>shilling
but
>wait for my product to hit the market and I'll sell you one while telling you how great it is

>>1527593
ye

>>1527515
>just know that its a lot more fun making something new and getting appreciation /contribution from other people
No it isn't all the easy stuff is already done. Noobs have no choice but to build a foundation of understanding by reinventing the wheel. You really gonna fault a guy for learning how to do something by first learning how to make the tools to do it?

>>1527579
What up is with this "onion"? Is it a filter for some word like onions?

>>1527729
love me some onions

Were there any notable new developments in the reprap project in 2018 or is it dead?

>>1527729
for some reason the word "s.o.y" (without the dots) is banned on 4chan and replaced with onion. Try it

>>1527747
little test: basedboy

>>1527747
onions

>>1527740
reprap has been completed with the Prusa
the chinese are our new overlords

>>1527729

Does anyone here cosplay?. Recommend me nice materials for 3d printed cosplay.

>>1527740
The Ramps 1.7 is currently been devloped, 90% done, now only the last stuff needs to be ironed out. Looks good so far
>TMC2130 support via jumpers
>16/32 Bit support configureable via jumpers and with logic voltage adjustment (32 Bit rather use 3.3V instead of the 5V of the 16 bits)
>different voltage rails for different parts of the board

>>1527778
>TMC2130 support via jumpers
doesn't the ramps 1.4 have complete tmv support as well?

>>1527729
>What up is with this "onion"? Is it a filter for some word like onions?
s.o.y. without the "."
>>1527747
>for some reason
It is because of /pol/, someone posted a fake study on /fit/ about how eating onions raises your testerone level and /pol/ picked it up and made it one of their things. They kept pestering everyone with it since they unironically believed it and they can never shut up about that kind of stuff. People telling them it sounds not right were declared to be jews or soiboys or leftist that wanted to stop them to get buff through the extra testosterone. You know how /pol/ can be when they got their minds on something. In the end someone revealed what an obvious fake it was and how he made it to show how gluible and stupid /pol/ can be. And in remembrance of this event the word s.o.y. , one of the regular insults /pol/ used to use, now worldfilters to onion.

>>1527784
>16/32 Bit support ...
atmega microcontrollers are 8bit not 16bit

>>1527778
>16/32 Bit support ...
atmega microcontrollers are 8bit not 16bit

>>1527806
This is correct, my fault.

>>1527784
Yes, you can plug in the TMC2130 into a 1.4 and they work, but not all features are aviable unless you do add additional cables, this includes setting motor current via firmware or stall detection. The 1.4 is simply build with the A4988 stepper driver in mind and those have some different pin usage as the TMC2130.

>>1527824
no i mean you can do that cable thingy with the 1.4, can't you?

>>1527832
Did you even read my first sentence?

>>1527887
oh so you can do the thing without cables?
neat i guess

>>1527897
you can do a4988 and drv8825 as well, all you need is to do is change some jumpers on the new one

Got my overbuilt filament dehydrator build finished. Wires are equal to or better guage than what was in the dehydrator and all parts rated for >=220C and 120V. Been running for about an hour without any magic smoke. Used a few wago connectors for shits and giggles.

>>1527944
>filament dehydrator
What for? I've seen homebrew filament reclamation setups to turn failed projects back into filament, but never something to simply dry out the stuff.

>>1527954
>What for?
This fucker again...

>>1527954
I have filament and live in a 50% humidity environment (WA), naturally, my filament pops and fizzles like crazy if I don't dry it first.

>>1527973

>>1527944
What the hell did you do to it? I just use a food dehydrator in it's unmolested form (except the trays) and it works perfectly fine.
>>1527954
It's a hell of a lot easier than using an oven? I bought this for $30 on ebay.
>>1527973
It sounds like you need to store your filament better. I live in a place where we get 80%+ humidity during the summer and I only have to dry my filament if I've been using it to print for 20h+

>>1528090
I did, for a while, but 65C is the maximum temperature the thermostat would go to, and I decided to use a full-blown PID controller instead. To do that, you need a solid-state relay to flip the power to the heater on and off, and I started to use a terminal block to isolate the PID controller side from the heater side (PID and SSR will need to be in a seperate box), but ran out of spade terminals.

>>1528094
Original schematic (reverse engineered)

>>1528096
Modded schematic.

The PID controller and SSR are too big to fit in the dehydrator. The SSR by itself is enormous, since it has a massive heatsink attached, and the PID controller is about 5" long and designed for panel mounting. I also need a fan to cool the SSR and PID controller.

>>1528094
Mate. you did more work for your filament dryer than I did for my PID/SS relay based casting furnace.

Cool it. lmao

>>1528109
It was sort of fun, and it's my first mains-voltage project with no official EE training or certification. Sort of a confidence-building exercise.

Now I just need to make it not look like a rat's nest.

>>1528094
>but 65C is the maximum temperature the thermostat would go to
That's like the recommended drying temp for abs/pla plastic, anything higher and you risk damaging the filament.

>>1528118
I use PETG a lot, which sometimes recommends 75C.

Also, do you guys have trouble with Hatchbox labels coming off the spools? Thinking of getting some sort of white marker instead.

Vaccum broke, sad day.
Functional 3D printing.

>>1528202
Just barely measurable via caliper.

>>1528203
35 minutes later.

>>1526261
>>1526274
>>1526275
This, I'm kind of considering one and haven't heard about any problems with it, you got a list or something?

>>1528207
A little tight. But does the job, secures appropriately and vaccum is up and running. Made in Grey Abs at .2 mm layer height. Didn't acetone finish it, kinda want it to break in the next two months to find it's weakness. Correct and print a reinforced one for permanent use. Replacement came as a bundle with ends bearing and another brush for about 30$. Took 1.9m of material. Whenever I fix something like this I used to add up the cost of the part. Until I got to the cost of the printer. Not too bad this one part offset the entire roll of abs +50%.
This is why I print.

>>1528090
Nice. Might get one too.

>>1526328
Man, so much love for the ender 3.

Rather than buy one this month i cucked myself to have a plumber do shit because my fat ass is going to have to rent a kwikie saw and dig like a vietcong to get to anything...

I hate my life

>>1526342
And build what? Kek

>>1527539
Not the previous guy, but it is better to have the drive symmetrical to the guides to minimize the torque applied on them. This is the purpose of the two rails on the right. There are already two carriages per rail, one at each end of the gantry, but in this case the machine appears to need high rigidity and precision, so such a design is preferred. Now, the design uses a gantry, which could in theory simply be a cantilever arm with no third rail, but this would add probably unacceptable amounts of torque about the axis direction on the carriages, as well as bending due to gravity, vibrations due to head movement etc. Thus, a third support rail is added.
One final thing to note is that such a setup is very rigid but requires very precise alignment and squaring to avoid excessive wear.

>>1526548
It really is hard to find good quality youtubers

>>1526564
>and a famine.

Lost harder than any YLYL thread in a month man.

Sorry your suffering is hilarious. Surely as shit made my day tho. And I'm probably going to steal that a few times before I die

>>1526641
AHAHA!

>>1526646

It's worth it just for all of the funky plumbing brackets anand organization shit in the garage

>>1526651
Help me figure out a way to mass print non environmentally harmful plastic dicks to glue lead into for sinkers

>>1526913
Fuck around bro! Nerf guns is serious business i see.

>>1527028
Fuck that. Try a few parts and spray with a carpet steamer of solution and dont breath it

>>1527056
Kek.

Kwiky burner. Use that to spray and save some cash

>>1527091
Can u loie with a rep rap?

If not no idea

>>1527747
KEK

>>1527747
Onions

>>1528113
My first real one was a digital control for lead pour pot. I bought an enclosure and it sucked.

Ive always been a big fan of repurposing cases. My pc is almost done and it's 2 red ringed looking x-box 360s.

I have an old mini gas heater im making into a portable charge pack for multiple devices.

I got tired of wrangling cords and rather than just turn the pcs around i just shoved a /diy port extension box into an old vcr.

>tfw plugging keyboard into VCR

>>1526371
Burned some more filaments and added it to the previous list.

Is an Ender 3 Pro that much more worth it from an Anet A6?

>>1528660
it's all PLA anon

>>1528667
Yea mspaint fucked me over, the last column should be petg

>>1527747

Lets see

onions onions onions basedboy basedboy

Does a PTFE lined hotend reeeally need a cooling fan? i mean for an all metal cooling fan it's really important to keep the part before the nozzle cool so that the filament doesn't stick to the walls but in a PTFE lined hotend the PTFE insulates the filament before it hits the nozzle so do i really need to cool down the heatbreak? now as for advantages of not using a fan? well none, really, the fan costs only a dollar but i mean it would be kinda neat not having to have any sort of fan shrouds or extra complications when printing ABS

>>1528681
Don't ABS temps require an all metal hotend?

>>1528681
i am also interested in removing the fan in my V6 hotend, i have seen some setups where its absent so i guess that in some specifics situations its not usefull at all
i have get mixed result with printing without it, with pla, most of the time it stop printing at the very start of print, but sometimes the prints go ok and problems apears when you start to reheat the extruder for the next print

>>1528692
PTFE can handle up to 240-250C and don't you print ABS at 230C?

>>1528707
yeah probably not a good idea for an all metal hotend since the heat break walls will get hot and the filament will get stuck to them or so i've heard

>>1525609
Any recommendations for a noob on what software to use? Going from the web i chose Freecad and it's nice and all to make my own stuff, but i still have no clue how to actually modify other projects and basic shit like a group/area selections seems no where in sight..
I don't give a shit about Freedom and whatnot, I just want to get shit done without paying some major license..
A photoshop/Affinity like interaction would be a plus though. At least i know my way around those..

>>1528681
>>1528692

In the ol' days hotends were made out of PEEK as per the "J-Head" design and didn't require any active cooling. The design called for a PTFE liner going through the middle and you could print both ABS and PLA with them if everything was done to spec. The old PEEK designs did have cooling fins machined into them, but since the material isn't a good heat conductor they weren't that crucial for maintaining a sharp transition from hot to cold in the meltzone.

Metal being a good heat conductor, with all-metal hotends the heat can easily travel upwards so you need more and finer fins with active cooling to do the same job. The PTFE liner's job here however is mainly to provide a smooth surface, because a bore that smooth in a metal heatbreak is more expensive to machine (and why original E3Ds are more expensive). It doesn't provide much isolation and since the heatbreak still threads into the heatsink the thing needs to be cooled by a fan.

tl;dr; - yes it's necessary. It's also kinda funny because the whole point of all-metal hotends in the first place was to be able to ditch PTFE and reach higher temperatures. The chinese just made clones that looked like the cool new thing (metal hotends) without actually having any of the benefits.

>>1528764
does the filament stick to the PTFE liner without active cooling?

>>1528740
I print my ABS at 250C fwiw

>>1528818
well yeah you can't do that with a ptfe liner

Chaps, I need to print two dozen wheels for a tank chassis. Ideally they should be a tiny bit flexible and be as grippy as possible, so basically rubber. Black colour is a bonus, but not vital. Is there a plastic like that? Is flex grippy, or just bendy?

>>1528872
why do you need tank wheels to be grippy?
the only reason they use rubber on 'em irl is for vibration reduction

>>1528692
No
>>1528764
Acually the hotend cooling fan was necessary to get the wierd new PLA material to work

>>1528665
If you've already got one and it's running properly: no.

>>1529023
I am looking to buy my first 3D printer.

>>1529024
Do you want something that bolts together and just werks (TM), except sometimes it doesn't and you have to deal with chinkshit quality control and customer assistence (i.e., none)? Get the Ender 3. Pro isn't really worth the money.
Do you want a learning experience, fully knowing from the start that you're not going to be doing a lot of assembly and tuning? Get the Anet.

>>1529026
I basically want to learn by assembling and tuning the thing, and whatever problems may arise I'd like them to take like an afternoon to fix, not a fucking month.

What I've gathered so far, the Anet A6 used to be the go-to for the baby's first cheap chink 3D printer, and was basically "replaced" by the Ender 3.

Also, doesn't the Ender 3 Pro feature a more sturdy construction, resulting in less headaches?

Easy and relatively cheap mods are also a plus for me. It's not like I'm gonna replace the thing any time soon once I get it.

>>1529026
Currently, I can get the A6 with the Auto level bed and 1KG of some chink shit fillament for $165 shipped.

Or the Ender 3 Pro for $260 shipped (the Ender 3 comes at $210 shipped. The seller also sells the 3X which I think is just a normal Ender 3 with a tempered glass bed?).

>>1529029
>Currently, I can get the A6 with the Auto level bed and 1KG of some chink shit fillament for $165 shipped.
Link?

The Ender 3 is probably the best value of the three.

>>1529027
If you get a problem on a Prusa-style printer it's usually an afternoon fix. They just take about a day to setup, which is a lot more then an Ender. Both can be extensively modified.

>>1529030
Ender 3-3X-3 Pro:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Newest-Creality-3D-Ender-3-Ender-3X-Ender-3-Pro-Printer-Kit-FDM-3D-Printer-Print/32903432578.html?spm=2114.search0604.3.9.1d69128fMQvcBX&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3_10065_10068_319_317_10696_10084_453_454_10083_10618_10304_10307_10820_10821_538_537_10302_536_10059_10884_10887_100031_321_322_10103,searchweb201603_2,ppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=a0fcf35b-d6c7-44b7-971f-1e62178dc48b-1&algo_pvid=a0fcf35b-d6c7-44b7-971f-1e62178dc48b

Anet A6:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2016-Latest-Big-220-220-240mm-Impressora-Precision-Reprap-Prusa-i3-DIY-kit-3d-Printer-with/32606799455.html?spm=2114.search0604.3.25.4247c52dnluTWM&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3_10065_10068_319_317_10696_10084_453_454_10083_10618_10304_10307_10820_10821_538_537_10302_536_10059_10884_10887_100031_321_322_10103,searchweb201603_2,ppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=a316573c-98a4-4531-a778-10f35bbe9cfc-3&algo_pvid=a316573c-98a4-4531-a778-10f35bbe9cfc

Would a chink 3d printer beat the Monoprice MP Select Mini in terms of value for money?
Also, where would you buy used 3d printers?

>>1529036
>Would a chink 3d printer beat the Monoprice MP Select Mini in terms of value for money?
Yes. Tiny print volume would be my main grip, but I just hate the idea of supporting an axis from one side.
>Also, where would you buy used 3d printers?
Craigslist or your local equivalent. Where do you live?

All aboard the new thread:

>>1529065
>>1529065
>>1529065