/diy/ - Do It Yourself

Lumber liquidators often has flooring for less than 50 cents a square foot.

>>1517122
Pine?

Cheap and good, get it from a proper lumber yard and it will be cheaper. Save alot of if you buy a couple router bits and do the tongue and groove yourself, or just skip it and accpet gaps will open at times.

>>1517127
Currently has a wonderful selection of vinyl to waste my money on. Looking for true wood, prices for any actual wood they had was stupid high.

>>1517129
I'm inlaying the gaps and defects in the wood with resin. Plus I'm not against the weird at all.

Plus I tried to say it the first time i wrote this post before 4ch screwed up, but I can't afford to drop a grand on this before tools. Resin is already procured.

>>1517122
Shapes from pallet wood and different stains and then epoxy resin

Make sure you have a solid substrate underneath. If you're using scraps you'll have to topnail. If theres any significant deflection nails will just pull out of particle board in time.

>>1517168
Already have the nailgun. Looking at diagonally nailing to really anchor it into the subfloor.

Going to check each subfloor area as I go, just in case, but the bulk of it is in incredibly good shape.

>>1517170
I meant for exceptionally bowed boards you may want to topnail. If you're routing a tongue into found wood, quite often the tongue will break if you put excessive pressure on It. Keep a 3/8s gap between the plate and your starting and end walls to allow for expansion.

>>1517170
If you can get a hold of one of these it could save you a lot of grief. I couldn't imagine handling exotic shit, like tiger wood, without it.

Don't cut the T&G yourself. You will waste alot of money. You need to just go buy by some cheap clicklock laminate for a buck SF. You can't do it cheaper yourself. Real wood is just more expensive.

you should try and return that expensive resin, and use the money to buy proper flooring.

https://www.repurposedmaterialsinc.com/ this webstite has neat wood reclaimed you could buy some of it and make your own mayubee.

It doesnt matter what you do if you got to ask how to make something for cheapo its because you dont know


A: how to be imaginative on your own to come up with cheap yet effective ways.

B:The basic cost of tooling

C: How to use that tooling

D: The basics of wood expansion (tounge and grooves aids in aligment and flatness it does not stop expansion and contraction)


You are pretty much doomed to failure. how much money in Poly are you going to spend for 1,500 SF? about 400 dollars, thats how much. 400 dollars could get you one third of the way to finished. But be a dumbass and waste your time.

>>1517122
Is there an architectural salvage place near you? For example, in Baltimore, a place called 2nd Chance has many bales of hardwood planks recovered from buildings they demo. They do it for work experience for the city folks they hire. A non-profit, they sell low-ish, and you can negotiate.
I’d expect there are places like this in many old cities.

>>1517251
an 8' 1x6 of #2 or better pine is $4, thats home center prices, proper lumber yards will have it cheaper if you get quantity. So $1 a SF just like your laminate, will outlast the laminate by a long shot and look better doing it.

Pine won't last for shit. Old frowth hear pine sure. Regular ass #2SYP nope. Lamint is in fact real wood laminated over you guessed it more real wood, granted it's really MDF. But go ahead reinvent the floor,. I mean I've heard of people overthinking some shit but FFS a floor?

>>1517440
>will outlast the laminate by a long shot and look better doing it.
>construction-grade pine
>outlast the laminate
>look better

Are you serious? Fucking SPF lumber as flooring? The stuff dents if you so much as graze it with anything harder than a gum eraser, and you want to use it as a FLOOR?

The only way you'd ever get away with that is if you dump so much epoxy on it that the epoxy itself provides enough structure to resist normal wear and tear. But that's going to drive the price way up, defeating the purpose of using pine in the first place.

Once you save all that money reinventing to floor you can spend it all renting floor Sanders and a small boatload of sandpaper, and pre stain conditioner and stain and putty and poly and rags and buckets and brushes. Click lok looking pretty good now. A wood floor is like a hooker. Let's you thrown whatever you want at it, doesn't show damage even after it's been abused for years, and a real good one is pricey.

Pine can last outdoors as a deck being shoveled off in the winter and salted, cooking in the summer sun, abused far worse than any indoor floor, but clearly it can never hold up indoors.

Pine and fir were fairly common flooring and once used to be the flooring for anyone who was not rich. Holds up well, it well get beaten up, but that is ok, it is nice under foot, develops a nice texture with age.

Decks look ok for a deck. But not an indoor floor

>>1517266
Repurposed oak, $0.50 ?

>>1517122
if you call around to the mom and pop hardwood floor contractors they often have a pile of left over wood from installs they will often give away because it will go into the trash of be burnt.

Also if you heat your house with wood you can ask to have the scraps from installs set aside so you can burn it.

I'm going to sand down my floor. What do I put on it to protect it that wont make it really shiney like in ops pic.

>>1518002
also should I stain it first? sorry i'm retarded.

>>1518002
I worked for a company that would get satin polyurethane from Homedepot, satin is the most common sheen we use and is what you will see in most homes. The oil base stuff is the best, water base is good but can cause shakes in the wood to pop up it's rare but something to consider.

you only stain is you want to go darker than natural.