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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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1494700 No.1494700 [Reply] [Original]

My grandpa has gifted me his old hunting cabin. It was built in the 40s and has no insulation at all. The exterior siding is vertical tongue and groove. The walls are just studs. No drywall or interior covering. Picture semi-related from Google.

Back in the 90s, my uncle tried to insulate it with fiberglass bats and drywall. After a few years, the insulation got moldy and was ripped out. I was told this was because there was no barrier or air gap between the exterior siding and the insulation. The building is weather tight and has no leaks. How can I insulate the place on the cheap and not end up with the same problem? Was that really the problem?

>> No.1494701

Shipping containers

>> No.1494705

>>1494701
The cabin is square. It is both too wide it fit inside of a shipping container and too short for one to fit inside of it. Thank you for the suggestion though.

>> No.1494706

Fill the wall cavities with imitation crab meat. it doesn't mold.

>> No.1494708

>>1494700
Lay a plastic vapor barrier over the studs. Keep it tightly contoured with staples.

>> No.1494714

>>1494706
Sadly, it is illegal in my country, so the cost is outside of my budget.

>>1494708
When the previous insulation got mold it moldered on the side facing the exterior siding, not the interior of the building. Are you saying I should install the vapor barrier between the siding the insulation? The cabin generally would spend no more than 6 months out of the year with anyone in it and would often go a few years between uses. Would that have anything to do with it?

>> No.1494718

>>1494714
>Are you saying I should install the vapor barrier between the siding the insulation?
This is how its installed. Its not rocket appliances.

>> No.1494719

>>1494714
>imitation crab meat is illegal here

You know he's talking about Owen Corning's Pink Fiberglass Insulation.
The Owen Corning's Pink Fiberglass Insulation should be good enough, if you do it correctly, it has it's own moisture barrier for the interior which helps immensely with a draft, but honestly you should put some tar paper or permeable building wrap under the siding on the exterior because The Owen Corning's Pink Fiberglass Insulation on it's own can only do so much.

Owen Corning's Pink Fiberglass Insulation

>> No.1494720

>>1494718
I don't want to pull the siding off the building though :(

>> No.1494722

>>1494719
and honestly I'd go with the more expensive R-38 or some thick shit, because honestly it's a small shed.

>> No.1494725

>>1494720
You can pull it off and put up smartboard or whatever the hell in like a few hours anon. Siding is easy.
You can either tear off the siding and put on building wrap, or you can have a cold shed.

>> No.1494734

>>1494720
You dont pull it off, my god. On the interior you apply it to the bare wall. You'll just have to contour it around the studs. Typically it would go outside between the sheathing and siding, but you dont have sheathing, just siding, from what I understand.

>> No.1494737

>>1494734
... If you don't know what the hell you're talking about then don't mislead some anon.
That is how houses get... idiot mold.

Interior moisture barrier and exterior moisture barrier are two different things....
The interior moisture barrier goes on over the insulation and under the drywall, most insulation for walls comes with it. Exterior moisture barrier, which is what keeps a draft from coming in and causing condensation that thereby causes mold, goes between the siding and sheathing.

>> No.1494738

>>1494734
Ah, I got you.

>>1494722
I doubt the walls are deep enough for insulation that high of value but I will look into it.

>> No.1494739

>>1494738
Probably not.
Honestly R-19 should be good. I was just getting jethro because it's 20 degrees and all I have in my house right now is a space heater. I'm fucking cold.

>> No.1494740

>>1494718
not true. Depends on your climate. I think in cold climates the vapor barrier is installed on the interior wall, and in warm climates it's installed on the exterior.

>> No.1494741

>>1494740
>I think
There you go again, you should do more studying instead of guessing.

Yall are pissing me off.
In cold places there is two vapor barriers. Jesus christ.

>> No.1494743
File: 61 KB, 798x578, vape.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1494743

>>1494741
>hurka-durka, onry pretending
https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/75130/What-Happens-When-You-Put-a-Plastic-Vapor-Barrier-in-Your-Wall

>> No.1494746

>>1494743
That's why I said asphalt (tar) paper.

In cold climates you ad tar paper to reduce draft, it is extremely more permeable than plastic.
Plastic goes on the inside.
Swing a hammer then come back to me

>> No.1494749

>>1494746
>In cold places there is two vapor barriers
Thanks for confirming that the exterior vapor barrier (tar paper) isn't really a vapor barrier but a permeable rain guard. Good to know that you were only pretending to be retarded back there.

>> No.1494750

>>1494700
>The building is weather tight and has no leaks.

Then how did the previous insulation mold ?

It may not leak water, but humid air condensating is still a factor.

>> No.1494752

>>1494746
Thats generally a tyvek wrap you fucktard.

>> No.1494756

>>1494749
Only - It's referred to as a vapor barrier, because it is, it acts differently than a plastic barrier, which has different applications than tar paper.
In my area we use tar paper on the exterior unless it's cheap shit corporate office or some shit that no one gives a fuck about because it's easier to use tyvek. The fact of the matter is that he doesn't have any vapor barrier ie tar paper under the siding, and the siding is directly on the sheathing, allowing condensation to seep into the inside of the wall when it's colder outside than inside instead of being wicked away by tar paper; because the sun is warming the building before the rest of the air outside.

Condensation is the usual cause of mold on walls.again - It remains warmer in the building than it does outside because of the insulation, it gets wet on the surface of the cool wall, it molds, when you have felt paper it wicks it off of the wood and into the air.
Because it's unattended for months at a time, I assume it won't be climate controlled, this is a contraindication for an interior moisture barrier because the air won't be warm inside, to cause condensation inside the wall. The entire reason you put up plastic inside is to prevent mold on inside of the wall if the air is warmer inside for a long period of time.

>> No.1494759

>>1494756
rationalize all you want, my point remains. Also everyone knows most common cause of mold is a leak. Do you even into homebuilding?

>> No.1494762

>>1494759
Not if every piece of insulation has mold on the exterior facing side.....

>> No.1494764

>>1494750
I'm assuming it was condensation build up.

>>1494756
So, can I just put tar paper inside the cavity between the studs up against the tongue and groove siding, then put some fiberglass bats against that or is there something else I need to worry about?

>> No.1494765

>>1494700
Anyone who uses the term "gifted" like that, instead of just saying "my grandpa gave me..." deserves all the cringey fucking mold he gets. How about you Google "insulating a shed" and try that out first?

>> No.1494767

>>1494756
>>1494759

I've got a house in Ga with brick on the outside that was built without any insulation in the 2x4 walls. I have been considering just packing rockwool insulation in the wall cavities whenever I get around to it and not adding any vapor barrier. It gets hot and humid in summer and below freezing in winter. I figured this would be the simplest and least dangerous solution to the structure. The rock wool seems to be much more stable than fiberglass batts, and holds up against incidental wetness (so I have heard).

Why would this not work well in OP's case?

>> No.1494768

>>1494764
Jesus no anon.

You need the tar paper between the sheathing and the siding. Tar paper goes OUTside, between the siding and the exterior side of the building.
Siding | Tar paper | Sheathing | Studs

>> No.1494769

>>1494767
That should work fine since you have bricks.

>> No.1494770

>>1494762
>Not if every piece of insulation has mold on the exterior facing side.....
If it's on the exterior, what does it matter?
>>1494769
>>1494767
yeah it shouldn't matter, I live in a block house in PA and my interior stud walls are insulated with unfaced insulation and I never had a problem. OP probably has a leak or two somewhere in the roof or a drip-edge problem.

>> No.1494771

>>1494765
He may not be a native English speaker. Some languages have multiple words for giving people things, eg. German has 'geben' and 'schenken.'

>> No.1494773
File: 70 KB, 700x554, 021260084-wall-insulation-without-sheathing-700x554[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1494773

>>1494768
>Siding | Tar paper | Sheathing | Studs
The cabin is not built like that. It is Siding | Studs. That is why I am here asking how to retrofit this on the cheap. I'm not going to pull the siding off and I just wanted to know if there was another way to get it done.

>>1494765
>How about you Google "insulating a shed" and try that out first?
I've read an article that said I could try putting some strips of wood running vertically between the studs to provide an air gap and then use rigid insulation over that but that stuff is expensive. I couldn't find anything else. I wanted to know if there was another option or if I could make straight fiberglass batts work.

>> No.1494775
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1494775

>>1494773
>>Siding | Tar paper | Sheathing | Studs
>The cabin is not built like that. It is Siding | Studs. That is why I am here asking how to retrofit this on the cheap.
A run down old house I bought is like this, so anyone reading this, feel free to offer a range of suggestions.

>> No.1494779

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5zlJnK38UN8

I assume most people here know about this guy.

>> No.1494780

>>1494773
Those tongue and groove joints are imperfect so Im assuming you wouldnt need an outer wrap and the interior one alone would work perfectly. Any water behind it would have an escape.

>> No.1494797
File: 7 KB, 342x342, 31iB+Sa436L._SX342_.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1494797

>>1494700
Spray foam a nice, even layer over the inside walls and studs with pic related. If that isn't enough to keep some heat in, then insulate with fiberglass on your brand new water-impenetrable layer of foam

>> No.1494816

>>1494739
The r-value of the insulation is not dependent on the thickness of it. The R-value of the wall is

>> No.1494822

>>1494797
Don't do this, perfect way to get mold on both sides of the wall. The solution you found yourself with hard insulation is probably the best. When the house isn't in use make sure it can ventilate so you don't get moisture build up over the winter.

>> No.1494828

>when keeping it cheap goes wrong: the thread

either do it right or don't do it at all....cutting corners is why it failed the first time

sub freezing temps is not the indicator to start thinking about insulation....plan ahead for these kinds of projects

do not run a space heater inside as the sole means of heating a building....someone in the area just died after a fire caused by that exact scenario

>> No.1494888

>>1494743
The vapor barrier prevents the humid air from penetrating the wall cavity . Is moist air does ( No vapor barrier ) It will cling to the inside of the cold exterior sheeting and freeze. Then thow and run down to the sill plate.

>> No.1494891

put a wood stove in the bitch and crank it up like they did before they had insulation

>> No.1494940

Vapor barrier+ wood fiber insulation. More expensive than glass wool but way more insulating. Plus it's quite easy to work with and non toxic

>> No.1494941

tyvek over the old siding, then install 4x8 smart siding, insulate, drywall, fuck off

>> No.1494994

>>1494773
You should be able to just put vapor barrier over the old siding and put new siding on top of it if it's flat enough, doesn't have to be perfect.

>> No.1494996

>>1494941
Basically this. Tyvek or tar paper.
I'd go with tar paper since it's not climate controlled most of the year, tyvek tends to degrade with temp extremes and moisture. It works best for dryer climates.

>> No.1495008

>>1494752
>he doesn't use ZIP System® Sheathing and Tape
The current year is 2018.

>> No.1495025

>>1494996
>tyvek tends to degrade with temp extremes and moisture
bullshit

>> No.1495088
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1495088

>>1494700
Consider using "Roofmate" panels : I don't know what do you call those in your country, but those are special styrofoam/polystyrene you can cut with a regular cardboard cutter/knife then tighty fit into existing walls.

I did the whole insulation of a small cabin in the French Alps 3 years ago, and its fine : in winter heat gets kept pretty well, like I'm heat the whole cabin with a small woodstove for a night, then I come back in ther evening, temp is still comfy, like a 18-19°C-ish.

Bonus points : its cheap as fuck, I don't how big is your cabin, but I doubt you would have to pay more than 20$/€ to get the whole thing insulated.

>> No.1495096

>>1495088
Roofmate Isover de saint gobain ?
Il faut quand même 120mm d'épaisseur pour être en BBC 2012.

>> No.1495108

>>1495025
Look it up senpai.

>> No.1495247

>>1494734
I am not sure, but i bet you 100$ that you can even buy this as a spray able thing

>> No.1495312

>>1494768
>Siding | Tar paper | Sheathing | Studs

I have a similar issue. I have an old detached garage I use as a workshop. No insulation. It is Siding | Tar paper | Studs. It uses diagnol bracing so no sheathing was used. Can I install fiberglass batts in the cavities since it has tar paper up already or do I need to do some funny shit like OP to make it work and avoid problems?

>> No.1495357

>>1494701
and lots of imitation crab meat

>> No.1495359

>>1495108
been building houses 30 years armchair fucktard

>> No.1495374
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1495374

>>1495096
>BBC 2012
OP wants to insulate a FUCKING HUNTING CABIN, definitely not to live in a vegan-compliant shed.

>>1495088
Check'em : 14*88 dubs never lie.

>> No.1495464

>>1494773
This is probably the best scenario

>> No.1496287

>>1495359
Riiight, and I repair your mistakes for a living.

Just saying.

>> No.1496308

>>1495359
I know what I got. No low balling. $150,000 for my rusted out old Camero, take it or leave it.

>> No.1496320

>>1494714
What shithole are you from?

>> No.1496402
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1496402

>>1496320

>> No.1496406

>>1494719
Bob Dole!

>> No.1496420

>>1494700
What about closed cell-insulation, it doesn't require a moisture barrier?

>> No.1496573

>>1494700
Build a cuck shed over your cuck shed

>> No.1496754

>>1494700
>>1494773
>air gap
What is the purpose of this air gap?

>> No.1496760

>>1494700
You want it done right?
Take a week off, bring a couple of workers to help:
- Remove tongue and groove siding
- Add sheathing
- Add Tyvek wrap vapor barrier
- Re-hang old tongue and groove siding (if you like)
or
- Add new siding
- Add interior insulation
- Add drywall
- Paint

>> No.1496762

Just paint truck bedliner all the inside, then staple plastic tarp to the frame, then spray shredded newsprint insulation inside that. Bam, 50$ and you're golden. You're welcome scrub.

>> No.1496778

>>1494700
Just leave it as is. @ 6 months a year, it’s mostly pointless, especially if you winterize fixtures properly.

>> No.1496780

>>1496760
>add drywall

Then OP needs to keep it climate controlled otherwise it will decay over winter.

>> No.1496877

>>1494700
>no insulation
the building was designed to not be insulated. your hunting cabin in fact is not weather tight and does have leaks, it just doesn't matter because your house is so leaky that the humid air has a way to escape.

>>1494720
If you want to properly insulate it, you're going to have to tear off the siding. this is non-negotiable. you NEED to be careful about condensation and letting air escape if you don't want the cabin to grow mold.

>> No.1496920

>>1496780
Don't know what his setup is but if it's just a cabin with no electric, running water, septic he can use other materials like wood paneling if he wants to keep the rustic look.
My cabin has all the "amenities" I don't have time for the roughing it shit.

>> No.1497532

>>1496754
Breathing for the wood since it absorbs moisture. If it was right up against anything like a vapor barrier it could not let go of it's moisture and rot. But it could be fine also

>> No.1497552

>>1494722
Insulation works by making little air pockets. If you get super thick insulation and compress it to fit in the walls, it don't do jack shit.

>> No.1498659

>>1496780
I second this actually. Drywall and mold go together like flies on shit.
Get some treated OSB and put it over the insulation.

>> No.1498668

>>1497552
I apologize for this post as I was intoxicated and cold.
But some R-19 wouldn't hurt.

>> No.1498701

>>1494775
as far as a house goes, you're going to want to take off the old siding and cover it with building wrap or tar paper depending on your climate, or be cold in the winter hot in the summer and feel wind all the time.
It's not a good feeling feeling the wind when you're on the couch and the condensation makes painting the drywall... difficult. Either get some lead based paint from a chinese toy company or building wrap and manual labor from Home Depot and your friend who will work for $20 and a few beers.

>> No.1498793

>>1494718
This is untrue. From the outside in, it should go: Siding > Sheathing > Insulation in between studs > Vapor Barrier > Drywall

>>1494737
Outside gets a "Moisture/Air Barrier" - prevents moisture and air from entering a building but is vapor permeable to allow moisture to escape.
Inside gets a "Vapor Barrier" -no passage of moisture or vapor or air.

>>1494767
Rockwool is an awesome product and would work in your scenario. Get the highest R-Value that can fit into 2x4 construction. Remember, don't squeeze it into place. You want it to just fit nice and snug. I believe R15 is the highest R-Value you can get from Rockwool in 2x4 batts.

>>1495008
Get with the times and use R-Guard by Prosoco. Liquid applied is what all the cool kids are doing.

>>1495312
The siding was probably considered both a sheathing/siding material when the garage was built. My house was originally built this way. Consider Rockwool batts instead of fiberglass. No itch, easier to cut and work with, (it's literally rock cotton candy) and is fire resistant up to 1500-2000 degrees, mold resistant, etc, etc. You could put batts in the cavities and if you want to get fancy, plastic over the studs/insulation. Make sure your garage has vents in the roof or skip the plastic.

>>1496420
Good but expensive. OP asked for inexpensive options.

>> No.1498808

>>1498793
>Outside gets a "Moisture/Air Barrier" - prevents moisture and air from entering a building but is vapor permeable to allow moisture to escape.
>Inside gets a "Vapor Barrier" -no passage of moisture or vapor or air.
I've been reading online that it depends on the climate. What you're describing would be for colder and less humid climates, the other way is for hotter and more humid climates.

>> No.1498843

>>1498793
>>>1494718(You)
>This is untrue. From the outside in, it should go: Siding > Sheathing > Insulation in between studs > Vapor Barrier > Drywall


Hurr durr Im mentally retarded and cant understand the context of OP's request, and think we're building up a fucking house instead of a run down hunting shed that was slapped together out of scrap.

Neck yourself you fuck.

>> No.1498900

>>1498793
Closed cell is like $400 for a DIY pack and it's done in a couple hours.

Pulling off all that siding to install a vapor barrier is going to be a fucking nightmare, then having to put it back on and add batts you'll be at a similar cost all in.

>> No.1498940

Just build some interior siding and stuff sawdust between the walls, makes for great insulation

>> No.1498952

>>1498808
Zoned a residential?

If not you can bypass the drywall and just put up cheapo wooden paneling, especially if its inna woods and never gonna be seen by any inspector, It will be a firetrap yeah, just don't set it on fire

I own a similar cabin so far into Ontario they can barely tax us

>> No.1498987

>>1498940
We didn’t have access to sawdust so we used gasoline and oil soaked rags.

>> No.1499158
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1499158

Im sure its been mentioned already OP but just go with this. Its closed cell rigid foam so you wont have to worry about mold.

>> No.1499312

>>1499158
finally this guy. Thanks guy.

>> No.1499387

>>1498987
Kek'd

>> No.1499966
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1499966

>>1498987
But you know we were happy in those days although we were poor.

>> No.1499980

Just

>>1494700
Just use roxul by rockwool it's an insulation that does not ever mold or retain moisture

https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.comfortbatt-r22-16-inch-oc-for-2x6-wood-studs.1000123043.html

>> No.1500638
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1500638

>>1494700
Vapor barrier goes outside of the insulation. If you won.t take off the siding, do like the pic where the gray is plastic sheeting.

2" stryrofoam with the edges sealed with latex caulk would also work at about twice the cost.

>> No.1502806

>>1498940
what an asshole

>> No.1503777
File: 97 KB, 1024x681, Wall-Section-render2-copy-copy.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1503777

>>1494700
Fill the wall with perlite. Add new siding and leave some gap for ventilation.

The other option is pic related. Maybe the best approach and most expensive.

>> No.1504233

>>1494700
They make rollled insulation covered in plastic. It's fucking amazing to insulate ceilings with