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2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/diy/ - Do It Yourself

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1486456 No.1486456 [Reply] [Original]

So I'm renovating my kitchen, getting ready to do the tile floor, was planning on putting down some self leveling concrete over the subfloor when I realized everywhere was mentioning plywood. I have a toung and groove subfloor, and a bunch of 1/4th inch hardiebacker, should I screw down a 1/2 inch layer of plywood first, before leveling and backer board? Thicker? Nothing, my original plan is fine?

>> No.1486459
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1486459

Close up of the subfloor at a cut through for an air duct.

>> No.1486469

>>1486456
If you can do a full coverage of stiff hardie board or durock ( thicker concrete board ) then the floor flexes less than plywood. Less flex = less cracking of tile or grout. Seal seams, or leveler will leak to area below.

>> No.1486502

I was planning on putting down hardiebacker across the whole floor. I was just starting to think it was insufficient on it's own. Or do you mean like two layers of it?

>> No.1486506

>>1486502
Press the numbers in their reply if you want to reply directly to somebody

>> No.1486517

>>1486456
The appropriate way to handle this project so that the floor tile will not crack is to GLUE and SCREW 3/8" plywood to the existing subfloor, then use Schluter Ditra (or other similar knockoff) crack isolation membrane product as the tile base.

With any other cementitious backer board products, when used on wood floors on wood joists, the joists deflect load, stress is at the board edges, and before long your tiles all have cracks in nice orderly lines with the backer board edges.

Only place I've ever seen a successful backerboard floor job was where the old house had 2x12 joists spaced 14" on center and the tiles were almost 3/4" thick limestone.

Check out Ditra

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMzXu1NRMAM

>> No.1486742

>>1486502
One layer if the wood floor below is decent. Durock if it’s soft or flexes.

>> No.1486771

>>1486456
Have you considered the weight that this will add to the floor? What's the size and spacing of the joists this will be laid down on?

>> No.1486783

>>1486771
>What's the size and spacing of the joists this will be laid down on?
2x8 16 inch centers 10' span

I am replacing an existing tile floor.
Two actually, because as I removed the old one I found there was a second one under it.

>> No.1486861

>>1486456
Kek, who left Michael J. Fox in charge of applying PUR foam?

>> No.1486929

Plumber here, I dunno where youre from but in Canada Thats wrong. You need a vent connection and that is an S Trap on your sink. No no no


Need at least 3" on the horizontal pipe down stream of the P Trap before you tie to your waste stack. That looks pretty funny m8

>> No.1486933

>>1486517
Ditra mat the only way to go for crack prevention.

>> No.1486966

>>1486929
House was built in 1929, I have not touched the plumbing. I could put in a different trap, but the venting situation is grandfathered.

>> No.1486971
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1486971

>>1486966
>>1486929
we use S-traps on bathroom sinks here in freedomland and even some kitchen sinks, syrup-boy.

>> No.1487053

>>1486929
Holy fuck you fucking leafs need to go.