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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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File: 10 KB, 170x153, 130068_00_8_s..jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
140807 No.140807 [Reply] [Original]

ITT: Quality.

Tools, equipment and workwear.

>> No.140810
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>> No.140812
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140812

Love this knife to death.

>> No.140817
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>>140812
Flashlights are important too.

>> No.140818
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140818

aaaaaaand my favorite multi tool.

>> No.140823
File: 30 KB, 450x444, Schrade-Folding-Saw.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
140823

This is a good folding saw.

Lasted me for a good while, until eventually I broke the tip off sawing though a particularly large log, and the locking mechanism broke when I started using it as a hammer.

>> No.140834

>>140812
name?

>> No.140851
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>>140812
a motherfucking challenger appears

>> No.140854
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140854

>>140851
Benchmade 915
>>140834
Bigger, bulkier, no strap cutter.
Not worse, just different. If going out innawoods I would definitely carry a beefy fixed blade of some-kind, I might actually skip that all together and just carry this and a hatchet.

>> No.140864
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140864

>>140854
I was actually going to post a gransfor hatchet but being that I live in the desert and dont own one and dont need one "inna woods" I didnt.

Also, pic related, dickies work pants. Not really quality I guess, they are munitions grade pants, but for the price they put up with quite a bit of abuse and when they finally are too worn or torn up to wear just throw them out and buy another pair

>> No.140870

who makes good boots for construction work(electrician)? ive been wearing redwings for like 6 years but they supported SOPA and are made in china now.

>> No.140874

Pic related. God tier. Wouldent be able to do my job without it.

>> No.140875

>>140874
Confirmed for unemployed.

>> No.140884

in other words anything made in the US or europe

>> No.140892

>>140870
Danner.

Some have imported soles, some are American.

>> No.140905

>>140870
Egelbert-strauss

>> No.140915

>>140892
+1 for Danner, I have some of their hunting boots that are fucking tanks.

>> No.140933

>>140884
Except without the US bit.

>> No.140951
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140951

>> No.140955

>>140818
I've seen this multi-tool posted on /diy/ a couple of times before, was interested in purchasing one. Would this be the most versatile/durable one available atm?

>> No.140958

>>140864
Huh, the Dickies I've had all wore quickly between my fat thighs.

>> No.140963
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>> No.140965
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140965

More...

>> No.140973

>>140955
In my opinion, yes.
The replaceable sawblade holder is compatible with standard jigsaw blades (never dull your saw)
precision screwdriver (reversable, phillips/flat)
bit driver with the availability for many inserts for torx allen etc available from leatherman (proprietary bits)
Very very sturdy construction, the pliers feel like a real pair of pliers you would pull from your toolbox, no rattly crappyness here. I had one for a long time then lost it, I am waiting for leatherman to come out with an upgraded model that has replaceable carbide wirecutter inserts (featured on some of their other tools) before I buy another one. I send them emails and post wherever they might see it that that's what I'm after, hopefully someday they will deliver and ill pick another one up, even without it though its still the best multi-tool out there IMHO
I urge you to do your own research however and only take my opinions as opinions not fact, there may be a better tool out there suited to your needs.

>> No.140976
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>>140973

>> No.140980
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140980

modified 1993 leatherman PST with plain edge blade, awl, scissors, diamond file, can opener/cap lifter with wire stripper groove, and small screwdriver

very primitive compared to today's multi-tools, but also not as gimmicky. it's really damn small at 4 x 1 x 0.5 inches, very streamlined, and built like a tank

>> No.140983

>>140965
They look brand new, you just starting then?

>> No.140985

>>140983
Most of them i've had for a couple years. I take good care of them. The Pax rip saw and the ball peen hammer are pretty new though.

>> No.140986

>>140976
Yeah, the jaws of the supertool 300 fit on the surge directly, damn shame you cant order it that way. I ain't gonna order two tools just because leatherman doesn't wanna swap it for me.

>> No.140997

>>140963
Nice brace. I have a ratcheting one from the 1930s with nice wooden handles.

>> No.141006

>>140973
Thanks for the detailed reply, user opinions go a long way. Doing research atm to find whats best for me. I've used this one before and have enjoyed its feel more than others I've used, like it actually feel sturdy. The replaceable sawblade is a big plus.

>> No.141010

>>140854
>dive steel

Ehh... Not really a fan.

>> No.141013

>>141010
I wish you could get them in D2 ;__;
Id be all over that shit.

>> No.141023

>>141013

Not D2, no. Too brittle for an EMT style knife.

Also it boggles the mind that they use N680 for the blade but far less resistant steel for other parts, including the liner and pivot. What good is a rust-resistant blade if the whole knife is rusted shut?

At least Spyderco's Salt avoids using any non-H1 metal anywhere in the design. Even the lockbar is made of H1.

>> No.141024

>>141023
I don't use it for diving OR EMT use, It is an EDC blade in my particular situation. I really like the strap cutter cause I can use it for beater tasks and spare the edge on the main blade. Brittle is fine with me, I just love toolsteels. What steel would you want in a EDC blade?

>> No.141027

are maglite flashlights recommended? just to keep it handy in the house and on trips, nothing specific

>> No.141030
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141030

>>141027
I don't like them, they are durable but extremely outdated with the advent of LED technology. (as well as other vast improvements that go along with that, driver circuitry, brightness, Li-Ion batteries)
While I dont reccomend this light because i got it DOA and RMA'd it, this particular light is exactly 30 times more bright than your typical maglight, and a fraction of the size.
>well what about battery life then, there's no way that light will go as long as my maglight.
You can dim the brightness, at one lumen it will shine for 177 hours on a single cell, compare with a maglights 19 lumens.

>> No.141033

>>140980
>>141030

what are these kind of flashlights called?

>> No.141034

>>141024

Ideally S90V, but realistically S30V for cost reasons.

ZDP-189 is also interesting but too brittle.

>>141027

Sure. You can just keep it in a corner somewhere, and the D-cell ones that use LEDs (finally) run practically forever. They're a bit expensive for what they are but simple, easy to obtain and easy to get replacement parts for in case you smash a lens or something.

>> No.141037

>>141033
Look them up by manufacturer, a fantastic 'budget' (more geared to the everyday homeowner) manufacter is Fenix
also worth mentioning:
foursevens
olight
zebralight
ledlenser
sunwayman

Good place to start shopping around might be goinggear.com, if you want to do more research on particular lights, runtime graphs, internal pictures of build quality etc, candlepowerforums.com

>> No.141038

>>141034
Note:
When I referenced 'maglights' I mean ones with incandescent bulbs.

>> No.141040

>>141033

They're called a lot of things, like "tactical." Just "flashlight" will do, really.

The more interesting ones are the really compact ones that run on lithium batteries (high voltage & energy density) and use high-powered LEDs. We're talking a LED that'll run multiple watts here. Most of the LEDs in those are made by Cree, so you can use that to help refine your search.

>>141037
>candlepowerforums

Go there for pictures and graphs, but NOT the "community." Mother of god, especially the aspies that run the site.

>> No.141044

>>141040
Agreed, good for info and real world opinions of lights, that's about it. (this light sucks, that light doesnt sort of thing, brand trends etc)

Just a note if you are going to filter your results by LED core type. Avoid very cheap china brands with overdriven XM-L cores. They can be rightfully dangerous if you put the wrong cell in, or run it at full brightness for too long.

Please run protected cells if you buy a lithium ion battery powered light, this prevents over-discharging and explosive battery fires.

>> No.141046
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>>141044

People being idiots with their belongings is one reason the average joe should avoid lithium flashlights (esp. multi-cell ones).

>> No.141048

thanks, will continue investigating

>> No.141051

>>141040

Idiot aspies, indeed. Can't even understand photon flux density, think lumens applies to a horticultural lighting situation.

CPF sux. Better to go to a more specialized semiconductor forum for that info.

>> No.141055

>>141046
If you get it from a good brand and don't get a dangerous china light you will be fine, I don't want to give the impression that these things are going to start exploding in your hand, just get a light from a reputable manufacturer, spend a few coins on it and you will be fine.

Just avoid the really cheap china lights and you will be fine, although most of these companies are in china, but you should be smart enough to distinguish complete crap from a quality piece right?
I use AW cells, they are very high quality but you cant run them in certain lights because of the flat top, do a little research, make sure you use the type of batteries the manufacturer recommends and you'll be fine. Wont you agree other anon?

>> No.141058

>>141051
>eye-biased and omnidirectional flux measure
>horticulture

You can't be series.

>>141055

Even a Surefire will blow up in your hand if you mix cells like an idiot, which is exactly what most people do with alkalines because a corroded battery holder doesn't teach the same kind of lesson that glass shrapnel does.

>> No.141059

>>141051
Any suggestions to an alternative? I generally find the info on that site to be fairly accurate and the opinions to be valid for the most part, any community is going to have shitballs what can you do?

>> No.141061

>>141058
Oh come on, I don't expect this person to be /that/ stupid. Give humans some credit jesus.

>> No.141070

>>141058
>photon count at specific wavelengths is what will determine overall luminous perception, and triggering of scotopic/photopic vision

>mfw you can trigger night vision just by bombarding the eyes with more red and blue, even with green light present in ample quantity

>> No.141072

>>141070
(I have no idea what the fuck you are talking about)
I just know a quality torch when I see one, and I think I share this trait with a couple other people on cpf and its awwrite.

>> No.141075

>>141072

tl;dr: CPFers say incredibly stupid things while attempting to sound smart.

They are not scientists or optical engineers; they are simply consumers.

>> No.141160
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141160

nice for average use, but once forced open, they stay open

>> No.141161
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141161

>>140980
>>141033

The one I use in that picture is a Nitecore D10 R2.

It's discontinued, but I love it because the design is simple - a black knurled aluminum tube. Features are pretty basic too: the "piston drive" on/off switch simply won't fail, brightness level can be ramped up to 145 lumens to 3 lumens, the bottom is flat so it can tailstand like a candle, it takes a single AA battery (which are easy to find, or you can steal it from a remote or something if you're in dire need), and it's not loaded with a bunch of crazy UI features like some lights have - it can be operated in both a twist light and/or a button

>>141027

Like pinzfag said, maglights are tanks, but they're outdated. You can buy LED drop-ins for them, but there are better options now these days.

If my Nitecore were to fail on me (still going strong after 3 years of owning it) My next light will probably be a Fenix or 4sevens light

Things I typically like in lights:
-Tubular design
-Variable light output (lights that are too bright will fuck with your vision and blind you when it comes to doing things in enclosed spaces, or trying look inside small electrionics)
-Single AA battery (since they're so readily available)
-Can tailstand

>> No.141182
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141182

ITT: those guys who carry around flashlights in belt holsters desperately waiting for a reason to get them out and use them, no matter how little a flashlight is needed.

>I dropped my pen behind the desk. Your arms are longer. Think you can reach it?
>Gets out flashlight

>This ruler's increments are hard to read
>Gets out flashlight

>This bolt is really stubborn. Want to give it a shot?
>Gets out flashlight.

Not to say there aren't people that do the same thing with folding knives and multi-tools.

>> No.141183

>>141161
>R2

Why the hell is is to hard to find decent LED lights in neutral or warm tints? Contrast is fucking important. Enough so that the small extra peak lumen output of a cool LED isn't worth giving that up.

>You can buy LED drop-ins for them

Mags have been available in LED format (formerly Luxeon Rebel, now Cree XP-E) for years, FWIW.

>> No.141189
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141189

Fortunately this is available in not-fisher-price color schemes now.

>> No.141192

>>141189
I'm trying really hard to find an excuse to buy that and a fluke 87. I think the fisher price colors might be what are attracting me.

>> No.141195

>>141192
>trying really hard to find an excuse
>implying excuses are necessary to buy an awesome soldering station and RMS meter

>> No.141198
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141198

What i use at work. Now if only i could afford a nice set for home..

>> No.141202 [DELETED] 

>>141195
I have a soldering station and I have a multimeter. I've never made any cool electronics-based projects in my life. I can't program and I get lost in 15 seconds if I try to do anything that isn't explicitly mechanical. I'm working on it though.

>> No.141215

>>141183
I know right! bout the only option besides the very few on the market is to mod whatever light you buy, or get a custom flashlight. oooh but some of the titanium ones are mighty sexy...
>>141182
Gear enthusiasts doing gear enthusiast things, what else is new.

>> No.141225

>>141215

Fuck titanium. Not a great thermal conductor and that shit loves to cold weld so much, almost before the pieces even come into contact with each other.

So does aluminum I guess, but the hard oxide layer that instantly forms on contact with air greatly ameliorates the problem.

>> No.141459
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141459

My next purchase I think. 2 weeks wages though.

>> No.141478

Loving that a few people on here have Mora's. Great multi-purpose knives.

Also, if you have a Leatherman and it's not a Charge TTi, why even fucking bother?

>> No.141529

>>141478
Why do you prefer the charge over the surge?

>> No.142285

>>141478

I used to own two waves, the first one: part of the body along the pivot screw cracked, so I couldn't grip hard without one of the plier handles collapsing inwards, and the second: the liner-lock on the knife blade snapped clean off after a year. Sent them back in under warranty and sold it long ago.

I really like my brother's Leatherman Charge, but I went back to my modded PST because:

-lighter at 5 oz
-less than half an inch in thickness
-scissors are 2x bigger
-has an awl
-dedicated long phillips screwdriver
-beater knife that's easy to sharpen
-a saw is nice, i don't really need it
-i dislike serrated blades
-easier to clean

The aesthetics are pleasing to me as well. It's simply stamped "LEATHERMAN TOOL" "PORTLAND, OR" "US REG TM 1325473", LEATHERMAN USA is molded into the plier-head, and everything is symmetrical - nothing poking out of the sides.

Very few breaking points on it. I can beat the hell out of it and won't worry about it getting scratched up or damaged. It'll probably outlast me

>> No.142394
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142394

these fucking carhartt double knee pants. get the unwashed style and you can wear them forever.

>> No.142519

>>140864
Trash
>>142394
Yeah.

I worked rebar for a while. Destroyed Dickies and usual work jeans in a weeks time. Either shredding them or eventually tearing out the crotches from climbing when craning.

Carhartt doubles and work socks. Fuck yeah things last. Not unbearable in the heat either.

Only other thing I'd like is good fitting gloves that actually last. I've found none. One hard shift will destroy the typical pairs of cufffed work gloves.