/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1357098
guyz, any help?

>>1357099
Incompetent Anon here, Nice dubs.

>>1357106
give a dog a bone

it's gonna do sick burn outs

>>1357098
1. You don't control motors by just changing the input voltage. You use PWM, where you feed in high frequency pulses of the full voltage and vary the duty cycle to create an average lower voltage.
2. just use a pot that feeds into a microcontroller as you'll need one for the PWM anyway. You can make any sort of handle you want to fit on a potentiometer very easily.
2.2 Li-ion batteries are not just a case of
>wire enough up enough in series to meet your voltage demand and then wire enough up in parallel to meet you current demand
You need control circuitry to make sure you neither overdrain or over charge the batteries, or else fire. You can usually buy these as a pre-made module though.
3. this isn't even a question.

>>1357133
Thank you kindly anon

yeah this whole time this thread has been up I've been researching.

I understand I need to have high enough volts (potential electromotive force) to even get a response out of the engine.
keep in mind that the starter engine out of a car is attached to a solenoid.

premade modules cost more, I enjoy doing the work
I DO believe it's all about wiring up enough batteries in parallel AND series to meet my current & voltage demand,
FIRE GOOD
these batteries are exstreamly cheap and replaceable if one or two blow up :) it'll put on a good show :)
If one was to use a potentiometer, but I'm set on using a 10-50V 40A DC Motor Speed Switch Control PWM HHO RC Controller 12V/24V/50V 2000W
will this work??

3# if some one was ever so kind enough to post me my dream schematics, the third question would be answered

can you please elaborate on the 'pot' and the microcontroller?

>>1357153
That controller looks alright, and has the potentiometer integrated into it already, so there's no need for a micro controller. Just be wary that motor drivers like that get hot, above 80C if you're driving them hard, you might need some active cooling.

Also I'd look up the specs for the motor you've scavenged. Starter motors aren't designed to run for more than a few seconds, continuous operation at full power might be fun but my guess would be it'd let the smoke out before long. I wouldn't run the thing at more than 1/4 rated power just to make sure it doesn't burn out.

>>1357156
thanks heaps for you imput

active cooling, got it thanks. I'v got a large heat sink(if it will fit) and a couple of pc fans sitting about that should help.

anon posted some videos of ppl whom have aready had my idea before and repupused some starter engines. I do understand thet they are only designed to run for a couple of seconds, but under HUGE loads, I donno if you have ever turned a engine block over by hand? but it's fucking hard.

I plan to run double to maybe even triple It's intended voltage though it!!! I'm thinking 30ish volts and 20A but no higher.

would it be safe for me to de-solder the potentiometer from the board, then add wires all the way up to my handle and some how adapt it into a throttle??

>>1357162
the other thread

>>>/g/65270374

>>1357162
Alright. If you want to draw a peak current of 30A at 32V then you'd need 45 18650 cells. 5 stacks in parallel of 9 cells in series. Charging that would take a 39V 9.5A power supply with an extremely well regulated power supply and control circuitry so that you don't overcharge the cells. In total you'd have over 2 kilos of battery. That's the energy of a small bomb, do not attempt this if you don't know how to charge these cells safely.

>>1357175
Oh gosh I havent even though about charging yet

OK so I plan to get 10 of these https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/263050589656?var=562053019878
I already have 2 and other good ones with 9900mAh, they are orange... so it docent matter if I get afew duds, then stack them to get the full 37v to have the maximum action potential, eventho when I pull the throttle it will max out at 30v.

for charging I will have a completely different wiring configuration attached (so one set of wires for 1#supplying power to the engine and another separate set of wires for 2#charging) I'm some how gonna get something that out puts 3.6v directly onto the positive of each battery making it impossible to over charge'em also not chargeing them to max capacity will keep'em healthy for longer
and increase the amps to decrease the charge time, inface I would prefer a slow charge as it will prolong the battery life further

so with a approximately 60amp hours giv or take I sort of need to charge'em 6amp with 3.6v to make it realistic

I like your suggestion about the power supply. But I'm gonna impress myself the cheaper I can do this
perhaps there is some sort of battery packs that could be simply plugged in? perhaps I could charge them in groups of 5 or 5 groups of 2 with 5 phone chargers :S

I really need to work on this.

I guess a dynamo isen't out of the question heh? charge while I ride :D

I really need to know if it's safe for me to extend the wires of the potentiometer to the handle bars to convert it into a throttle.

/shit thread
This is /DIY/ not /DIFM/
Pics ot GTFO

>>1357196
what is DIFM

will this work?

>>1357188
That'd be safe. The pot will be operating on logic level voltage, so either 3.3 or 5V. Just twist the leads and avoid wrapping them around the motor or near your main power leads to keep noise down.

>>1357205
there will be full noise my friend :D
I only have one break on the front wheel, I hold that and dump the fuck out of it. tap the horn a couple of times and throw my stubby at some hot chicks.

no but srsly what am I forgetting? I think I should chuck a fuse in there some where or something right?.

30-36v's isn't to much for the solenoid?? I mean, it's suppose to maintain a steady magnetic field or what ever but, should I put a buck converter before it, to ease it up a bit?

>>1357198
Do It For Me

>>1357207
does it need a ground? I mean, it can't hurt right??? RIGHT????

>>1357208
I still have to wield the rest of the frame together yet mate

The wiring is easy
Just how do you intend to engage the starter motor to the rear wheel? Since a chain, pulley etc...would be a feat in engineering

the $1 key switchy thing has a small LED in it, could that posibly get blown from the high power? It docent state that it has a max input or anything like that

>>1357204
Ground your power switches.
If they are a toggle style, STDP there should be three connectors on the back. the middle one should be current in, the one closest to the on position is current out and the other should be connected to ground, otherwise the switch itself is live and could shock you at these voltages.
Also there's no need to have a voltmeter or ammeter set up so I just removed them.

>>1357218
the starter engine directly hits the cog which is mounted onto the axle.

>>1357204
forgot pic
>>1357220
Yes.

>>1357226
>the starter engine directly hits the cog which is mounted onto the axle
Gee I've never seen a cog ( sprocke t) that has teeth like a flex plate that a starter requires. If that's what you intend to use expect a top speed of about 2 mph.

>>1357224
the volt and amp meter is for aesthetics, I also want to how a battery charge indicator


at this stage of the development I'm thinging of adding in the alternator to lessen the tole on the power bank, but I don't think it would get upto speed with out some sort of gearing for it.

perhaps I could take a dynamo out of an old torch?

>>1357228
OH ok thank you! I didn't realize, see this is the stuff I need to know. measure twice cut once
what do you sugest?

this guy seems to go alight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C5lp3fP1WKo
my rear wheel are bigger than his so that will help I guess :)

>>1357232
>what do you suggest?

>>1357227
HOLY MOLLY! THANK YOU SO MUCH! YOU LEGEND!

>>1357227
this is actual wrong dude?, the solenoid needs to have two positives in, and the entire shell of an starter engine also known as a crank engine is the negative which is earthed onto the chassis of the car.

this dude explains it. also can I ask why everything except the starter engine goes into the ground? I'm still a noob at this

>>1357243
opps this dude

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGem9YsjCRQ

fixed it for ya pall

hold the fucking phone here... arent car starter motors NOT designed for continuous use? and how the fuck are you going to use it to make a fucking bike? you gonna strap a car battery to it? starter motors require alot of power to turn.. and chances are you will burn out that motor as starter motors are not designed for doing anything besides starting cars...

I knew this was a full on bullshit thread

>>1357098
>>1357153
>>1357162
>>1357184

OK, i see some basic problem here:

The starter engine is usually a drive with stator windings and rotor windings in series.
This will result in HUGE currents when the motor is starting.

You will need a fucking huge ass load of capacitors to reduce ripple current heating up your batteries. Also the driver needs to be rated huge amps load like 300 amps.

Be careful without the load the motor maybe will destroy itself because the speed torque diagram of that kind of motor is horrible.

>>1357133
Maybe DC motors. And yes you are varying voltage with Pwm. It's just easier that way.

What if OP had an ac motor Mmmm?

And does anyone realize what happens when you use a fucking starter as a bike motor? It's series wound. Run it with no load and it self distructs. I'd wanna have a cutoff switch on the clutch mechanism. It will also take all the amps you can give it.. Usually around 600-1200 depending on the model. It would make more sense to use gates to switch between series and parallel configurations if you could supply the source.

Touche e-bike anon fag for triggering me to reply and touche OP for being a fag.

>>1358465
>Starter engine out of an old car
>AC Voltage

Kys

>>1358823
Let me clarify. Car starters are DC. Vary the voltage and you vary the speed. The post I replied to wasn't clear about this only working on DC motors.

But this doesn't work with AC motors or universals.

>>1359103
>What if OP had an ac motor Mmmm?

What didn't you understand about kys?

>>1359116
>>1357133
>1. You don't control motors by just changing the input voltage. You use PWM, where you feed in high frequency pulses of the full voltage and vary the duty cycle to create an average lower voltage.

You're a dumass and an illiterate with an inferiority complex. Try this with an ac motor see where it gets you.

>>1359128
kys
y
s

wouldn't a rewired alternator be able to handle more power?

>>1358823
>>Starter engine out of an old car
>>AC Voltage

>Kys

Nope, motors with series windings and no permanent magnets will work on ac

>>1357130
>>1357133
>>1357156
>>1357175
>>1357196
>>1357204
>>1357205
>>1357207
>>1357218
>>1357220
>>1357224
>>1357227
>>1357228
>>1357229
>>1357232
>>1357233
>>1357235
>>1357243
>>1357245
>>1357270
>>1357358
>>1357960
>>1358346
>>1358465
>>1358823
>>1359103
>>1359116
>>1359128
Wouldn't it have been easier to just tell op he's a fag and he can't do what he wants with his bullshit idea? because he can't.