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/diy/ - Do It Yourself

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1226292 No.1226292 [Reply] [Original]

I'm new to electronics and wiring. I'm looking for a part that's very small that heats up a small amount. Like an LED except only warmth.

>> No.1226297

>>1226292
Nichrome wire

>> No.1226301

>>1226292
Literally anything

>> No.1226304
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1226304

What you are looking for is a Russian LED.

>> No.1226316

>>1226292
Wat are you trying to heat? Knowing your intended outcome will help.

>> No.1226322

Nichrome looks interesting

>>1226316
I have paint that changes colors by heat, like mood rings. I'm going to take a picture frame connected to a computer with preset patterns on which areas need to be heated.

>> No.1226325

>>1226322
Buy RGB led light strips
Its cheaper, easier, and you wont burn your house down

>> No.1226329

>>1226325
That was my first attempt, but not only did light shine through, it took forever to change color. Placing my hand on the glass had a faster effect. there must something similar to an LED that works the same way but is all heat and no light

>> No.1226330

>>1226329
I meant ditch the paint altogether.

>> No.1226391

>>1226329
Try gluing some resistors to the back of it.

I would start with something in the 2W range (like 5R@2W, and overloading it with 5W of power connecting it to 5V rail.

By using thermal glue to fix it to the frame, you should safely dissipate the excess heat while having it warm up fast enough.

>> No.1226429
File: 6 KB, 184x273, smd_resistor.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1226429

>>1226329
>all heat and no light

>> No.1226483
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1226483

>> No.1226489
File: 22 KB, 333x296, S_AMD-AMSN2400DKT3C.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1226489

>>1226292
An AMD Athlon K7

>> No.1226493

https://youtu.be/Bw2p-Dmn48U

>> No.1226495

>>1226329
step 1: burn some pencils and take the graphite out

step 2: thermal adhesive some small pieces of it where you want it on the back, with wires on either end

This is going to give you a fuck ton of heat, is widely available, and can be any size. Run a low voltage to start and work your way up

>> No.1226520

>>1226489
>not a core i9
pleb

>> No.1226521

>>1226489
>>1226520
/g/ pls, this is a consumershit free zone. Behave.

>> No.1226760

RESISTOR. the word you're looking for is resistor. Hot fuck how has everyone in this the not just said the fucking word goddamn fuck this board.

>> No.1226770

>>1226329

Literally resistors.

Make sure the power rating of each resistor is more than what you are going to put into them.

>> No.1226775

>>1226760
see
>>1226391

>> No.1226796

>>1226304
>What you are looking for is a Russian LED.
> heats up a small amount

>> No.1226856
File: 60 KB, 500x500, 1494786854609.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1226856

>>1226489
>>1226520
>>1226521
pls
do not bully fan-tan, she is doing her best

>> No.1227079

>>1226329
>> it took forever to change color
then you are doing it wrong. You can flash LEDs on and off fast enough to transmit internet. Get one of the addressable LED strips

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KlfhHXBz9WI

>>1226322
Pattern formation might be a bit difficult because what you really need is feedback to control the temperature of the pattern.

>> No.1227089

>>1226292
Resistor?

>> No.1227094

Take your LED, flip it around (+ to -), and then plop it directly on your 5v rail. You've just created an LED, except for warmth!

>> No.1227095

>>1226489
I had (still have, somewhere) one of those. While good for its time, few fans were powerful enough when i ran it at max. This was around 2001, i think.

>> No.1227100
File: 54 KB, 480x640, metric glownut.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1227100

>>1226304
I prefer the metric glonut.

>> No.1227264

>>1226770
How would you get a resistor to heat up? They seem to just limit the current without heating up much. At least with 5V DC

>> No.1227281

>>1227264
V = IR
P = IV
(You) = ???

>> No.1227293

>>1226301
This. First law of thermodynamics dude. Look it up.

>> No.1227498

>>1227264
>>1227281
I'll do it for you:
P = V^2/R
If you're using a 1k resistor, you'll be generating all of 25mW with 5V. The maximum power you can drain from most USB outlets (assuming) is from 3.5W to 10.5W, which is determined by your power supply's current rating (V*I). You might be able to pull a little more before its current limiting switches in, but I wouldn't. If you do it well enough you might be able to get away with a matrix of 10* 25Ω 1W resistors spaced about the frame, though it might be a little anaemic. You could also use FETs as your resistors/current sinks, which would let you split up the current variably between the different heat sources, and reach more than 1W per each heat source at a time, though you'd have to watch out for thermal runaway. You could also go for 10Ω or 5Ω resistors and send power to them via PWM instead of having them just on or off, meaning you could send power to them differentially like with the FETs, but without the risk of thermal runaway, but you'd still need FETs to switch them. Also use the frame as the heat-sink for the FETs, so the heat dissipated by the switching FETs will contribute to the heating of the frame.

>> No.1227505

>>1227100
is it me, or is that nut just loose, preventing a proper surface area to distribute the current in that connection?

>> No.1227731

>>1226489
this is actually not that bad of an idea, I remember shorting some old cpu so that it would warm up,
I believe there's also a video of a cpu hand warmer