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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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1207858 No.1207858 [Reply] [Original]

Old thread is past bump limit.

Is there any easy upholstery trick to seal these popped seems on my footrest, asside from completely ripping it apart?

>> No.1207871
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1207871

>> No.1208009
File: 25 KB, 475x540, 19958966_10159047971430154_5135669534658628531_n.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1208009

the screws are totally stuck (tried a PH00 screwdriver and other sizes), I already put oil there, doesn't fix it. how can I get them out (safe)??

>> No.1208039
File: 1.23 MB, 1920x1080, DSC_0014.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1208039

How do I detach these glued poles? I need to redo the glue because a few of them are loose, making the chair weaker.

>> No.1208066

>>1208009
grip the lens with something safe ( or have someone hold it)
use one hand to push the screwdriver down into the screw
use the other hand to turn the screwdriver ( if the shaft has flats, use a adjustable wrench )

>> No.1208336
File: 80 KB, 736x742, skyline diffuser.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1208336

Making a couple of diffusers for my back wall, what is the best way to make sure the pieces of wood are nice and square with each other?
also the easier the better as long as it won't make it come out super noticeably janky

>> No.1208595

>>1208336
So from what I've researched a table saw is what I need

>> No.1208861
File: 139 KB, 1023x682, 1485973233257.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1208861

Can I use my girlfriend's dark brown hair dye to stain/darken wood?

I don't want to go buy a full can of stain just to use a very small amount (using it to dye knife handles, very small amount of material.

>> No.1208862
File: 2.39 MB, 4128x3096, 20170713_142249.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1208862

Why do my perfect bound book signatures keep separating from my bookcloth? I used a decent amount of PVA glue on the spine of the signatures, but they inevitably pull away as I handle the pages. Would loose stitching alone cause this, or should I be using more glue as well?

Thanks

>> No.1208910

>>1207858
>bonded leather
You're fucked, OP.

Anything you do will only make it worse.

>> No.1208937

>>1208009

the trick is to find the appropriate bit that gives great contact, and a perfect fit. it's not just a question of size, it's the actual geometry of the head of the screwdriver bit. that's why i have something like 20 small philips screwdrivers. i wont use any torque until i find one that feels just right.

>> No.1208939

>>1208595
>So from what I've researched a table saw is what I need

a proper table saw is very expensive, and ANY table saw is too dangerous for any noob. what you want instead is a radial arm saw with a fine-tooth blade, to make slow but beautiful, and perfectly straight cuts.

>> No.1208955

I have a Thinkpad P40 Yoga. I also have a microcontroller programmer that uses a DB9 serial port. I have had terrible luck with usb to serial adapters but great luck with a pc card serial adapter on my last laptop. My P40 Yoga doesn't have a pc card slot but it does have the proprietary onelink+ expansion slot. The proprietary expansions sold by Lenovo include USB, RJ45, and VGA slots, but no serial port. I'd like to design my own onelink+ so serial port connector. What is the likelihood that the pinout on the onelink+ dock exactly matches the pinout of a pc card slot, or another common socket found on a mother board? If it doesn't match anything commonly used what would be a good way to start reverse engineering the onelink+ port? Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

>> No.1208963

>>1208955

you're climbing up the wrong tree. you can get a 10-yo P4 or dual core for nothing, or next to nothing. and these should have the DB9 you need (or a DB25 which becomes a DB9 with an adapter cable). and you can be a lot freer in your actions coz, if you somehow damage the old computer, it's no big deal.

>> No.1208965

Can I superglue something to tile and then remove it with acetone without leaving permenant marks?

>> No.1208971

>>1208963
That's currently what I have. I can't really argue your statement other than to say It's more about the journey than the destination. I can always fall back on my old laptop to program my microcontrollers. I just think it would be fun to try and reverse engineer the port.

Thank you for the response though!

>> No.1208975

>>1208965
The short answer is probably. However there is some risk either the glue or acetone will react with whatever the top layer of tile is made of. Considering the trivial price of purchasing one practice tile it would be prudent to do so and experiment with it before you stain your floor.

>> No.1209048
File: 26 KB, 500x500, 4156fF+TimL.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1209048

i have about 20 lbs of aluminum muffins i want to turn into actual ingots. best thing i can find are cast iron lead molds meant for people who recycle lead to turn into lead bullets for reloading. would cast iron be suitable for aluminum and copper (eventually) or will it crack or stick?

>> No.1209052

>>1208861
No, go buy a fucking $5 can of stain you cheap asshole.

>> No.1209073

>>1209048
It should be fine as long as you preheat the mould. Aluminium has a coefficient of thermal expansion almost 3x that of iron, so you can probably overfill them with ease.

>> No.1209083
File: 421 KB, 831x1123, p3eaMyw.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1209083

I have an old rear projection kdf e42a10 sony tv, often the lamp needed to be unplugged and plugged again beacuse pic related switch wasn't making proper contact with the lamp. Last time I got desperate and pulled the little tab a bit too much and fell off.

Now my tv won't turn on anymore and it's time to disassemble it. So I was wondering two things: someone here has experience with this particular model? looks like a pain in the ass to get to the part that I need and could use some help. And secondly, one thing I could do is solder the contacts and fool the tv into believing the switch is pressed, but im kinda doubtful about it because I read it's there to prevent arcing between the lamp and tv contacts (don't want to burn down my house or the tv), this would save hunting that part down and 25$ that the board costs. Do you think there is a real risk other than it not turning on because there is no actual contact between the lamp and the plug if I decide to nigger rig it? The lamp is 100W I believe.

>> No.1209085
File: 1.16 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_20170712_104833-1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1209085

>>1209083
And pic related is the duct where the lamp goes and where the switch is (was).

>> No.1209092

>>1209085

the ''prevent arcing between the lamp and tv contacts'' story sounds like complete nonsense. instead it sounds just like it's some kind of interlock so you cant operate the TV when the lamp is pulled out. so, shorting out the appropriate terminals should work fine. another option is to replace the switch itself, which should be under $5 unless it's a custom made part, in which case you wont find it for sale.

>> No.1209096

>>1209073
think putting it in the oven at 400 or so would suffice or should i just hold it over the furnace exhaust a while before i pour?

>> No.1209110

>>1209052
I live in a relatively remote place, where a normal $5 can of stain costs 10 or 15, and my salary isn't accordingly increased.

>> No.1209112

>>1209083
Is it a high voltage discharge lamp or something funky?
Switch is just there do it knows the lamp whether the lamp is removed or just burned out so it can flash a little led or beep or something to tell you to replace it.

>> No.1209117

>>1209092
I really have no idea whether it's exagerated or not, it says that in the service manual. I searched the switch part number and found 3 at >30$ and one at 3.50$, uh?

>>1209112
>"When the lamp is fired from a cold start the voltage can
reach upwards of 26KV. Once the lamp starts and ionization of the gas
begins, the voltage is immediately dropped to around 20-30 volts and
slowly raised to an operating voltage of roughly 90 volts."
This from the apparently official service manual, 26kv sounds a bit high.

>Switch is just there do it knows the lamp whether the lamp is removed or just burned out so it can flash a little led or beep or something to tell you to replace it.
I suppose the switch senses the lamp isn't in or not fully in, if it's burned out the tv has a led indicator on the front that says "LAMP", pretty sure the lamp itself is ok.

>> No.1209119 [DELETED] 
File: 12 KB, 1176x592, Untitled.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1209119

i have a shaft in need of a keyway. i have no practical way of doing it (like a mill) so i tried cutting in a slot with an angle grinder. couldnt really get it deep enough to fit the key easily. i was thinking to just grind the key into a pentagram or give it a rounded end.
would either of these work out?

>> No.1209122
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1209122

i have a shaft in need of a keyway. i have no practical way of doing it (like a mill) so i tried cutting in a slot with an angle grinder. couldnt really get it deep enough to fit the key easily and of course the bottom is rounded. i was thinking to just grind the key into a pentagram (easier but worse) or give it a rounded end (harder but better).
would either of these work out?

>> No.1209137

>>1209122

what does the bottom of the key, or the bottom of the keyway have to do with the function of the key? nothing! the only thing that matters is that the keyway has flat sides that are snug against the key, so that the shaft can transfer power to the key cleanly, without any rattling. seems to me your best hope is to file the sides of the keyway flat.

>> No.1209145

>>1208861
Try it on some scrap wood and find out.

>> No.1209153

>>1209122
use an angle grinder with a thin cutoff wheel
mount the shaft in a vise and plunge the wheel carefully so the sides become square

wear a face shield so you can see deep down

>>1209092
>the ''prevent arcing between the lamp and tv contacts'' story sounds like complete nonsense.

it's pretty reasonable if the start voltage can ramp up to 26kv - that can bridge a lot of unintentional gaps, like ones possible at the lamp assembly to tv contacts. i think the high ramp is there to start older lamps.

>> No.1209154

>>1208955
You've probably already done this, but i'd be searching for any kind or resources on the wiring of the onelink+ port and go from there

>> No.1209167

>>1209137
duh youre right, im a sleepy tard
>>1209153
tried that, wheel just deflects down the sloping wall

>> No.1209359

>>1209154
I have. It's a tightly guarded Lenovo secret.

>> No.1209410
File: 625 KB, 1000x667, img_6722[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1209410

best hand tool/ technique to cut aluminium into square shapes?

i need panels for my synth.
using 2mm or close to in aluminium sheets

>> No.1209413
File: 6 KB, 400x400, hacksaw.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1209413

>>1209410

after long careful consideration i've come to the conclusion that the best way to saw a piece of metal is to use a metal saw.

>> No.1209417
File: 2.01 MB, 3264x2448, 20170622_183423.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1209417

>>1209413
the long sides are 3U ~12.5 cm, I should have specified.
I'd have to meet in the middle with a hacksaw.

here is one i made, trying the brushed aluminium look.
it was a pain to get this nice, and its still not all that straight.

>> No.1209419

>>1209417

if you lay the saw nearly flat on top of the work, you cant cut 20-25cm long sections, no problemo.

>> No.1209434

>>1209417
Oh hey, it's you again! That's really coming along nicely.

>> No.1209443

What's the best way to break stuff for making
kintsugi?

>> No.1209566

>>1209443
I have no idea. Maybe score it and heat/cool depending on if that works with the material. Probably just wrap it in something to cushion it a bit so you dont get tiny chips, and smack it with a hammer or something, small ball peen or big mallet depending on size and intended texture.

>> No.1209578

>>1209443
You could try heating it up with a propane torch and dropping it in an ice-bath.

>> No.1209603

I figured this would be a better place than /adv/ to ask : Are there any plumbers here? I'm 23 and thinking about getting into the field. I've spent the last 9 months working at a grocery warehouse, so physical labor and long hours aren't a stranger to me.
What do you think about the job? How is the environment / hours? Is it worth putting up with union bullshit? Is plumbing better than most 2-year degrees?
I'll be monitoring this thread for as long as it's up once or twice a day.

>> No.1209756

>>1207858
An apple tree of mine got shredded in a recent storm and I'd want to use the broken branches to create cuttings, but from what I understand you're best off transplanting cuttings during the spring or fall/winter? Any suggestions on how I can salvage this?

Also I'll be using that apple wood for smoking meat nigga

>> No.1209779

>>1209603
Do you have a strong stomach?

>> No.1209794

>>1208861
I see cans of stain on clearance sale all the time. usually $1 or $2...

>> No.1209797

>>1207858
naw, pretty much skrewd. might as well just re-cover it with some other fabric. that's the easiest fix.

>> No.1209802

>>1209110
You can make your own ferric acetate stain with steel wool/iron scrap and vinegar. You have no choice on color (grey to black) but it's dirt cheap. Wash the wood with strong black tea first if it's not going dark enough for you.

>> No.1209803

>>1209756
Keep the cuttings in indoor pots until the weather is suitable for transplant.

>> No.1209826

i've wired up this monstrosity to open my garage door on a COM port serial communication. now i want to write a c# program to handle the port when something's communicated to it over the web. i don't care whether that uses sms, calling a number, or using a foss home automation app.

what's the easiest, most braindead way to accomplish this?

>> No.1209827
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1209827

>>1209826
monstrosity related

>> No.1209928

>>1208861
roofing tar and paint thinner
nice rich brown stain
allow to dry, topcoat as desired

>> No.1209958

Any advice for getting rid ants?

My apartment patio is right next to the dumpster for the complex, and they've decided to use my back porch as an ant highway to get from home to the food in the trash. It's been just a bit obnoxious as I've had to keep them off my plants, but I'm starting to find them inside my house, which is unacceptable.

I'd prefer to not use anything toxic or poisons, and it's especially tough because I've been unable to track down the location of the main colony.

>> No.1209993

>>1207858

I have a friend who collects records, and wants me to help him build a bookshelf for them, buying a shelf won't work because its a mix of boxsets and seperate records, which have different heights, he wants one to store quite a bit records 200+
Is there some site that has lists of woods and their weight tolerance, or is there some formula for finding weight tolerance to help make this easier for me?

>> No.1210007

>>1209958
Put a tiny pile of sugar on your neighbor's porch. Conversely, put it on your porch, then become friends with the ants. They won't come inside if they have food outside, especially if you're friends with them.

>> No.1210079

>>1209958
Make a thin ring of sugar, maybe 3-5 feet in diameter, somewhere ants go. When they find food, they leave a scent trail signalling where more is, and as more anta follow the trail, the trail gets stronger. The goal is to get them marching in a circle. Ants don't really think, they're basically tiny machines, and they're programmed to follow that trail until they find the food or the trail ends, and then come back. If you can get them marching in a circle, they will march until they die.

Or just use poisoned ant bait to kill the queen and end the colony, ants are something like 1/3 of the terrestrial biomass, so it's no great loss.

>> No.1210086
File: 22 KB, 500x276, bar_stock1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1210086

i want to cast my own bar stock but most videos ive seen of people doing this end up very porous. whats the best way to minimize porosity as much as possible?

>> No.1210088

>>1210086
Vacuum chamber and water-free mould are the thoughts that enter my mind. If you're planning on using tin can aluminium then you'd better refine it somehow too, shit's dirty.

>> No.1210090

>>1210088
no vac pump or chamber let alone one that can take the heat, was planning on using steel tubing for the molds. i was toying with the idea of hooking up a vibration system to try and vibrate air bubbles up at the cost of an ugly top that would have to be machined flat anyway.
yes soda can aluminum (with heatsinks and other random al bits), i have over 20lbs of muffins so far. it should be pure enough for home dumbshit since the ~1700f heat burns off all of the ink and plastic and soda from the aluminum.

>> No.1210096

>>1210090
>the ~1700f heat burns off all of the ink and plastic and soda
Are you not at least rinsing your cans? Because you aren't burning everything in the soda off by heating it to ~1700f. At the very least, you're leaving salt behind.

>> No.1210101

>>1210096
ill rinse out the inside but i dont like wire wheel off the logo

>> No.1210103
File: 88 KB, 1100x1100, lock.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1210103

What are these types of locks called? I'm trying to add a lock to a single file cabinet drawer.

>> No.1210108

>>1208862
First you need to sand the paper, then glue it.

>> No.1210121

>>1210103
Is this sex toy anon again?

>> No.1210123
File: 185 KB, 1686x840, mailbox lock.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1210123

>>1210103

mailbox lock

>> No.1210127

>>1209779
I can handle some fairly gross things. I'm not sure how I would handle sewage though, which I get comes with the territory.
Little update, my Dad has an under the table plumbing job on Tuesday that he's going to let me tag along with.

>> No.1210178
File: 139 KB, 603x594, DRAWER LOCKS HALF MORTISE.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1210178

>>1210103
mortise or half mortise drawer lock

>> No.1210179

>>1210103
>I'm trying to add a lock to a single file cabinet drawer.
This >>1206515
is easier to install and better suited for a metal file cabinet

>> No.1210194
File: 2 KB, 125x122, 1492875033535s.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1210194

>>1207858
I just wanted to post this

>> No.1210195

>>1208009
They're probably JIS, retard.

>> No.1210196

>>1208861
Use fucking shoe polish

>> No.1210268

Don't really know anything about electronics, however I would like to add a light in my shed, nothing fancy, but I have 2 spare car batteries so I would thinking maybe I could use a solar charger and wire the light to the batteries?
Anyone know any good cheap bits I can use for this?

>> No.1210290

>>1210121
Who? I'm just using it for general storage in some of the drawers(notes in one, all the paperwork/manuals for stuff I buy in one, and spare cables coiled and put in hanging file folders for quick finding in another), which other people at the house might need access too, but I want one drawer locked that has things like my tax and credit card documents.
>>1210123
>>1210178
Cheers, thanks, I'll try finding one with either of those search terms.
>>1210179
That's my fall back option, but installing it on one of the drawers itself, I like the look of the square one better.

>> No.1210308

>>1210086
Commercial bar stock is extruded, not cast. Don't expect the same kind of results. As a rule, castings are much more brittle.

To reduce porosity you need a combination of a proper casting alloy (its popular to melt soda cans and cast them, but they are the wrong alloy and pour very badly), preheating the molds, and some way to eliminate air bubbles from the pour. The last part is probably the hardest.

>> No.1210678

would a small chainsaw with a engine that is about 40cc be able to run a small bike. i dont want to use multiple chains so what kind of gear ratio should i use?

>> No.1210716

I feel like this board will have a good answer for this
I fucked up my hand on a piece of metal and have a gash right on the inside of my middle fingers knuckle. Any recommendations on how the fuck the get this shit to heal, it breaks open with every goddamn movement.

>> No.1210726
File: 604 KB, 922x561, Screenshot - 07172017 - 02:17:41 PM.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1210726

>>1210716
>it breaks open with every goddamn movement.

Well, you have to minimize that, but buy pic related at walmart or the grocery store or a drug store and a box of bandaids. Change the dressing twice a day or when it gets wet or messed up.

This ointment makes cuts heal a bit faster in my experience.

>> No.1210909

>>1210716
>it breaks open with every goddamn movement.
Do what >>1210726
said but in addition, tape a popsicle stick to the underside to act as a splint to keep you from bending that finger.

>> No.1210953

Where's a good place to order custom cut metal?

Big Blue Saw is the best I found so far.

>> No.1210972

>>1208939
This. Buy some square stock from your local place and cut to length with saw.
You can get a decent table saw for under $300 but if you don't know what you're doing you WILL hurt yourself. I got lucky when I was learning and came away unscathed but it definitely shook me.

>> No.1210977

>>1209603
I work with union plumbers in the states. I would say go for it if you have the stomach.
You WILL be spending the first few years digging trenches with a shovel while your boss watches be aware of that.
Lastly, like any trade, go in with the idea that you will eventually go out on your own. That's where the money is. Second best is finding a small union shop to work for.
Plumbers are unfairly looked down upon these days, they're what separates us from Somalia, civilization can't happen without them.

>> No.1210980

>>1209958
Diatomic earth. Use it like a voodoo priest trying to ward off evil spirits, on window sills, door thresholds, and the baseboards of exterior walls.

>> No.1210982

>>1210980
I'm an idiot I meant diatomaceous earth.

>> No.1210996
File: 363 KB, 720x1280, Screenshot_2017-07-17-20-24-41.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1210996

Is this shit ever going to be fixed? Forums are almost completely useless without being able to see pictures. Trying to build a bumper and don't want to have to imagine what they did with a vague description. I know nothing can be done, but what the fuck am I supposed to do in the meantime?

>> No.1211000

>>1210996
Pay a real company to do your hosting for you instead of relying on "free" services? They have no duty to provide you with a feature you are not paying for and shit like this springs up all the time. Remember, if the service is free then YOU are the product.

>> No.1211012

>>1211000
I'm a person looking at the forum, not posting. When I do post I know how to attach photos directly to the post without hosting. My next question: are you this stupid all the time?

>> No.1211075

>>1211000
>>1211012
>assuming that every micronesian ice fishing forum is willing to host their own images and pay to reserve the bandwidth to serve them

>> No.1211170
File: 157 KB, 1440x900, s-l1600.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1211170

i bought a cluster for my motorcycle for dirt cheap with the only issue being the center light cluster has no cover on it. its really not a big deal as i know what each light means, but its aesthetically shit. i figure tinting each bulb what color it is supposed to be would make it look better, so how do i tint or paint a bulb and what brand should i use for it to stand up to external vehicular abuse (because motorcycle)?

>> No.1211245

>>1210977
apparently most shops in my state are non-union, but there are a few around. Should I go for the extra effort to find one?
>digging trenches
Can't be a lot worse than lifting heavy groceries like pickles, boxes of water and whatnot on top of 7ft high pallets for 12 hours. I lost 38 pounds in 7 months just from that.
I don't hate the idea of running it as my own business later either. I have pretty good money sense and customer service skills.

>> No.1211257

>>1211245
I would, just for the training. Most unions will train you in the trade while you work. Contact your local hall and ask they'll give you all the info you need. They are picky though, so be prepared to prove you're worth a shot.
Get your plumbing license then start your own business.

>> No.1211523

Could one cast certain gaskets for engines out of RTV mold making silicone?

>> No.1211529

>>1211523
Pretty sure Loctite makes RTV silicone specifically for that task. I'd assume the mold making stuff would work in the short term, but I'm not sure if it would burn up and put anything nasty into the engine.

>> No.1211604

How small parts can i weld with stick?

I have a 15mm OD ball bearing i want to tack to a 2mm thick sheet metal. Of course this wouldn't be my first weld, but with practice is this doable?

Are there any welding sticks that are thinner than the regular ones, for tiny welds?

>> No.1211668
File: 73 KB, 1280x720, maxresdefault.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1211668

What's the best way to physically secure this in place? Something real stiff so I don't need to resolder it a third time. The USB port eventually breaking its solder joints is the known point of failure for my keyboard.

>> No.1211671

>>1211668
remove it completely from the board
clean the metal and the board surface
epoxy the shell to the board
re-solder the pins on the board

>> No.1211681

>>1211604
Coat hanger wire is pretty thin, and you can weld with it.

>> No.1211685

>>1211604
tacking is easier with a wire feed or mig welder

you can get 1/16" rods, low current & practice should do it

>> No.1211754

>>1210716
If you're having problems with the wound not sealing, super glue is cheap, common, and way less painful than stitches. Would recommend

>> No.1211757

I'm working towards the service rifle from New Vegas. The only thing I'm really missing is wood a1 furniture. I know a guy with a shop sabre cnc machine who says he'll make me a set if I can get the files/program/something like that. Know where I can get what I need? Also, what kind of wood should I use and what would be a good place to get it? Any help is appreciated

>> No.1211792

How to open stuck bleed screw? Tried Rostoff and heating but no luck, the head is all fucked now. Should i just drill it and make new threads? Disc brake btw

>> No.1211797

how to soften rubber ? i was thinking on soaking it on liquid silicone, it's for a keyboard rubber domes, thankyou diy

>> No.1211806 [DELETED] 

what can i soak steel in that will dissolve rust but wont damage paint/chrome?

>> No.1211807

what can i soak steel in that will dissolve rust but wont damage paint, chrome, aluminum or plastic?

>> No.1211810

>>1211807
Evapo-rust or Metal Rescue. Both are expensive but won't attack other surfaces.

>> No.1211811

>>1211797
Automotive brake fluid if it's a non-silicone rubber, BUT if it's thin and delicate it may be past fixability. If it's silicone rubber, then a silicone soak can't hurt if it's already stuffed.

>> No.1211827

What's best for washing windows? Water mixed with vinegar, windex, or something else?

>> No.1211835

>>1211827
>What's best for washing windows? Water mixed with vinegar, windex, or something else?

For me it's just windex. First use any sort of paper towel or whatever to make sure all the grime is loosened. Then lightly spray again and squeegee it off. Otherwise it tends to look streaky in the sunlight.

And then there's the classic, using newspaper, which used to be abundant. Supposedly something about the ink or the paper made it ideal for washing windows. Your hands tend to be black after a while, but it works.

>> No.1211917

whats the best way to attach a bin to my standing desk so I can keep my pc off the carpet with worrying about it sliding off. i was thinking about welding a small box together and then welding it to tbe desk but that seems like overkill

>> No.1211995
File: 109 KB, 800x450, 0706170554-800x450.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1211995

>>1211917
god damnit i forgot pic

>> No.1212003
File: 185 KB, 1200x528, VL044 75mm 3inch polyester webbing endless ratchet strap lashing_MG_3363_12323.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1212003

>>1211995

Can you rotate the PC 90 degrees and have it against that vertical frame member? If so, put one strap like those ratchet things around the PC and the two frame members that will be beneath the PC. In your pic that would be like the short one on the other end, and the long one that connects to two casters.

I'd look for the most light weight one I could find, preferably one like pic related that does not have the two hooks. This type is for wrapping around, while the hook kind is for attaching to two anchor points.

>> No.1212016

>>1212003
holy fuck thats smart thanks anon!

>> No.1212194
File: 2.20 MB, 2610x4640, IMG_20170719_194533.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1212194

Hey all, helping my brother settle into his new home.

We want to mount the TV to the wall. The wall is plaster and fucking thick. As far as we can tell, there are no studs. Best way to mount the wall mount to hold the TV?(maybe 100lbs)

Pic 1/2 wall in question

>> No.1212197
File: 3.91 MB, 2610x4640, IMG_20170719_194456.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1212197

>>1212194
Pic 2/2, a test hole drilled into the plaster. My best guess is at least 2 inches dewp

>> No.1212198

>>1212194
well that looks like a chimney breast so yeah i'm not surprised there are no studs, typically chimneys are made of bricks. you know, so they don't fucking burn?
you want expanding anchor bolts. put them literally anywhere.

>> No.1212199

>>1212198
Sorry, I've done one summer of rough construction, basically framing houses. So my formal knowledge on proper technique isn't very extensive.

Thanks for the advice

>> No.1212307

I have a vizio tv that is roughly 7 years old, and today it stopped showing picture. The backlight still powers up (I can see some backlight bleed) and the sound still works. Because of this, I believe that the issue is on the display driver board or whatever it is called, and possibly is related to the controller.

What are some other areas that I should look at? I haven't actually taken the tv apart to look at yet, but I'm guessing that I should also possibly take a look at capacitors just in case.

>> No.1212426

>>1212307

you have a TV without video and you want us to guess which of the 10 million possible causes is the right one.

>> No.1212775

>>1211835
Thanks man, followed what you said exactly and the windows turned out great.

>> No.1212951

I've built a table on which to set some grow bags, essentially fabric plant pots.
Because they're fabric, the bottom part that sits on the table is going to be soaked every time I water the plants, and I imagine it won't dry very fast.

Will standard exterior paint protect the wood from this level of water exposure, or do I need to use paint that is specified to be waterproof?

>> No.1212966

>>1207858
Where do I get cheap shit at.
Everytime I want to make a small project I end up spending a fortune on minor things. You have to buy shit like resistors, transistors etc in bulk and its annoying. Then theres shit like plywood cost thousands of dollars.

>> No.1212972

>>1212951
I'd use bottom paint if you're interested in preserving the wood. That's (boat) bottom paint, btw.

>> No.1212979

>>1212966
For capacitors and things like that, the trick is to always buy some excess. On mouser and sites like that, it is sometimes cheaper to buy 10 capacitors than it is to buy 5 or 6 due to bulk pricing.

>> No.1214065
File: 1.72 MB, 3120x4160, IMG_20170722_171005.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1214065

New woodworker - just planed this rough lumber I got from the lumber yard today.

Is all this sapwood and only worthy of the fire pit?

>> No.1214067
File: 1.78 MB, 3120x4160, IMG_20170722_171009.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1214067

>>1214065
Here's the worse backside. Was planning on making a banjo.

>> No.1214179

How do I buy right color of pvc skirting boards? They have dozens in my local shop and I have no leftover boards to compare.

>> No.1214227

I'm renting a 2 story home and both of my roommates have upstairs bedrooms. The upstairs never seems to get cool enough while the downstairs gets very cold. I've tried closing some of the air vents downstairs and turning the thermostat to always run the fan. The house has a pretty old thermostat. We had a 300+ utility bill last month in an area where it's like 7c/kwh.

I'm looking to improve air circulation any way I can for the second story. We have a fan pointed down the staircase. What's the best way I can fix this problem?

>> No.1214231

>>1214227
>We have a fan pointed down the staircase
The cold air is on the bottom floor.
Place the fan at the bottom and point it up the staircase.

>> No.1214235

>>1214227
>I'm looking to improve air circulation any way I can for the second story.

Also, see about in-duct booster fans for the upstairs ducts.

>> No.1214739

I'm going to be moving out of my childhood bedroom (which the router is in) into our garage (it's fully furnished, aircon, etc.) My problem with this is working out what to do with my PC and the internet. Now the garage is a separate building to the house so I just don't know if it is possible to set up an Ethernet between the two. Is my only option a wifi usb dongle? Anyone have any advice or ways I could get Ethernet?

>> No.1214740

>>1214739
Also as far as distance goes it's probably about 7 meters away. And I could move the router so it is going through 1 glass window and 1 wall to reach the pc.

>> No.1214746

>>1214739
>>1214740
Get an outdoor-rated network cable and run it to a switch in the garage. You could bury it or run it in the air, but if you do run it in the air you'll have to worry about birds' feet on it, and putting a steel cable above it to take the tension by virtue of cable ties is also highly recommended.

Wireless is for chumps.

>> No.1214937

Not a diy question in the least but I thought if anyone on 4chan had experience with leather, this would be the best place to ask.

I bought a leather sofa but it's too big to fit through the doorframe. Since I can't get it in the house at all it's sitting in my backyard (unfortunately I can't use the garage but it's in a covered area). There's a thick plastic wrap around it, I taped the large holes where the cover tore in my car and whatnot, and I also put tarp under the bottom and top of it. It'll have to sit out there until not this coming Wednesday, but the Wednesday after. Is that sufficient protection until then? What are the odds some bugs with eat it and/or lay eggs in it? God I'm regretting not getting a warranty.

>> No.1214946

>>1214937
>it's too big to fit through the doorframe.
If you have a 36" door (~35" opening) it will fit.
Sofas are made to be moved into houses.

>> No.1214950

>>1214937
https://youtu.be/0lYab5fw0tk

>> No.1214968

>>1207858
i have some old spoked motorcycle wheels i want to derust. spokes are steel (of course), rim is chromed steel and brake drum is aluminum. i was thinking of just dunking the whole thing in vinegar so i dont have to disassemble the spokes. will white vinegar damage aluminum or chrome?

>> No.1215025

>>1214946
Pretty sure it's a 36" door, but the sofa is just slightly too wide. We could get maybe 2" of it in but after that it wouldn't budge.

>>1214950
I'll have to check that later. Thanks.

>> No.1215101
File: 30 KB, 1753x1240, Door-Plan.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1215101

>>1215025
If the door will only open ~90-100 degrees, the thickness of the door takes up part of the opening.
(doors that open 180 degrees don't)
Knock out the hinge pins and set the door aside.
Tilt the sofa at the angle necessary to clear the opening.
You may need to remove the feet from the sofa.
Sofas are manufactured to be placed in houses that have standard doors.

>> No.1215287

The capacitor for my outside ac unit is dead and has to be replaced. Is there anything else I need to buy/do besides replace the capacitor?

>> No.1215444

>>1215287
Usually not.
Was it the fan not running or the compressor not running?

>> No.1215500

I recently acquired several uncut gemstones, sapphires, a ruby, several garnets and some emeralds. The only one of valuable size is the ruby, the rest are small/not very pure.
At home I have a Dremel drill press along with basic power tools, could I cut these with a dremel or do I need to invest in lapidary tools?

>> No.1215524

>>1215500
forgot to add I have a fuckton of different colored quartz to practice with

>> No.1215538

>>1215500
you will need a water-cooled set up to cut gemstones. I have heard a guy talking about waterproofing a bench-grinder and adding a water-feed but I dont know if that's a realistic idea.

>> No.1215549

>>1215444
The fan.

>> No.1215553

what sort of prices should I expect to get a shop to cast me 10lb cast iron olympic weights in orders of 100's or 1000's?

>> No.1215574

>>1215553
I would assume half the weight is the price by 100s, for 1000s though maybe even cheaper but I've only ever bought 100s and less, which are usually a dollar a pound.

>> No.1215743

What's something transparent I can cover something (electroluminescent wire) to make it UV resistant? Is polyurethane a good idea, or might it not stick to the polymer surface? Epoxy is my other thought.

>> No.1215796

I want to make a stink bomb, but I want it to smell like a specific odor - dead carcass. What can I use to produce a pungent smell as similar as possible?

>> No.1215797

>>1215796
puree fish guts in a blender
let it sit in a container outside for a week
use the paste as you like

>> No.1215802

>>1215797
I like. Could it be made into a liquid?

>> No.1215818

>>1215802
it'll start out as a liquid after the blender

2-3 days in the sun = smells like death

>> No.1215852

Do 1/4" hex drill bit/long screwdriver bit adapters exist for 3/8" ratchets?

Alternately, do chucks or chuck shanks with a 3/8" ratchet adapter exist for this purpose?

Would a very deep 1/4" hex socket work fine or would it cause issues that a full-on adapter would be better suited for?

I would like as few "large tools" for portable purposes as possible, so combining a socket tool and a drill/driver, if possible, would save a lot of weight and space.

>>1210996
Go to the photobucket link, copy the link, open in a different browser.

>> No.1215959
File: 2.47 MB, 4160x2340, IMG_20170725_214551401.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1215959

So I got a new soldering iron and was wondering if there's any reason not to use the heating element from the old one to make a strip heater for bending plastic.
Pic related it's the old one.

>> No.1215990

>>1215959

sure thing, but you need 99 more elements in order to get enough heat.

>> No.1216017

>>1215990
Why would I need so many elements. It is around 180 degrees Celsius

>> No.1216030

>>1216017

the temperature is irrelevant, what counts is the power output. a 30W element is gonna do absolutely nothing to soften a piece of 5mm acrylic. or 2mm. maybe a paper-thin piece of acetate, yes, but nothing more substantial.

>> No.1216073

>>1214746
Thanks for your help, hopefully you're still around. Is it possible to get another outlet put into the garage and get another modem and run them off the same network? Would I lose any packets from doing this (if it is possible)?

>> No.1216194
File: 147 KB, 700x309, RJ45 wall socket.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1216194

>>1216073
Definitely. But what you want is an ethernet switch, not a modem. A modem converts DSL copper (or fibre in the case of a fibre modem) into ethernet and typically splits it into multiple outputs, while an ethernet switch just acts as a hub. If you buy a switch rated for the bandwidth that your modem can provide, then you'll be able to get all of that through the switch, but it should go without saying that you can't pull more than the total bandwidth through multiple outputs. Alternatively you could use a wifi router, if you'd prefer the extra functionality.

What I advise doing, and have done in the past, is installing a couple of RJ45 (normal network/ethernet cable) sockets, one in the house near the modem, and one in the garage near where you plan on installing your router/switch. This means you only need to unplug the cable going to the modem or switch if it gets damaged, not have to replace the entire thing. These sockets are typically installed in a wall-switch faceplate, similar like pic related, and you use a punchdown tool to install the different coloured wires in their respective sockets. There are actually two different standards for which colour goes where, but as long as its the same on both ends you'll be fine. Now the line I ran was under a house, so we just used normal CAT5e wire, but since yours will be in the open, I'd look around for rugged and chemical and UV resistant network cable.

There was a thread not too long ago about a guy replacing his network cable going from just under the roof of one building to another which worked fine in the end, but underground is probably the better way if you don't want to drill holes in the outside of the house and garage. It just takes a little more elbow grease to dig the cable trench. Putting it inside some piping/ducting is probably also a good idea to prevent the soil from eating at it or whatever, best case scenario you'd be able to install the thin, flexible ducting and thread the cable in.

>> No.1216225

>>1216194
Here's the thread:
>>/diy/thread/S1200798

>> No.1216226

The sticky says I can't speak about diy sextoys here
So where do I go to speak about my ping-pong anal beads and similar projects?

>> No.1216271

>>1216226
You can discuss methods for, say, waterproofing something or making it not cause a reaction with "sensitive skin", but if it's about designing something explicitly for the purpose of prostate tickling, I'm afraid you're out of luck. I suggest getting practice with techniques you can discuss on /diy/ on tried and true orifice violator designs until you "have a feel for it" and can come up with your own designs.

When it comes to materials, avoid most metals, especially copper, zinc, nickel and anything else particularly reactive, avoid most plastics, and stick to things like glass, silicone, gold, titanium, and other biocompatible materials. Don't make something that treats your orifices as a one-way check valve, or make something that might just disintegrate internally.

Have "fun"!

>> No.1216417

Is there a product that that plugs into a mains socket and delays switching on the power to a device for a set time once power is restored after an outage?

When I switch over my generator it immediately trips its breaker when the compressors on all the fridges and freezers try to start simultaneously. Currently I have to run around and switch them on sequentially so this would save a fair bit of effort.

>> No.1216507
File: 72 KB, 234x240, time delay relay.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1216507

>>1216417

i have worked with such devices but they're not consumer-type devices; i get replacements at a place that sells stuff to electricians. called time-delay relays.
if you have the skillz, you can make your own with a 555 and a regular relay.

>> No.1216748

>>1216194
More than I could of hoped for. Thank you so much mate, absolute legend!!

>> No.1216750

>>1216748
No prob m8

>> No.1216805
File: 6 KB, 441x367, pipe.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1216805

I need to reduce the outer diameter of a short length pipe by a small amount in order to get it to telescope into another pipe. I am wondering how I can do this without a mill, or without spending 127 hours scraping at this thing with a file.

I've tried the grinding stones on my Dremel, sanding by hand, filing by hand, attaching the piece to a drill and filing that way, but everything either doesn't work / takes too long.

>> No.1216806

>>1216805
swedger

>> No.1216808

>>1216806
This is steel pipe, and I don't own anything strong enough to ram one of those things though.

>> No.1216810
File: 156 KB, 720x1280, 1501127518721.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1216810

>>1207858
I saw this on a /b/ YLYL and I couldn't decide if it was more retarded or inspired. Granted, you wouldn't want your ice that close to your fire but is there any fundamental reason this is retarded? I'm thinking about heat stress on the porcelain or fumes from the email. I've definitely used the tank to ice bottles of alcohol during road trips.

>> No.1216813
File: 212 KB, 1200x677, creepycrawlers.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1216813

>>1216226
...Amazon is cheap to the point that this question is dumb. I built most of my bondage gear using stuff from Tractor Supply and Lowe's but all of the rubber and penetrative elements were Amazon.

If you need insane girth you are probably best off buying a 3D printer or whatever they use for those dragon dildos. They sold similar kits for young boys in the 1990s.

>> No.1216815
File: 464 KB, 667x476, HTB1AosaGVXXXXXcXVXXq6xXFXXX6.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1216815

Who agrees that vertical hydroponics is stupid?

If you're using natural light, it's never going to actually increase your yield by packing more plants per square foot, because each rack will be partly obscured by the shadow of the one in front of it. It's just solar panels that tilt to track the sun - stupid! it won't increase the power generated because the panels will need to be more spaced out; just put them flat and join them closely together and save money on the mechanical components. And of course with artificial lights for each rack, your power bill will be through the roof (inb4 solar. Why not just use the flat land if you have that space?)

The only place I could see vertical growing being appropriate is against the wall of a building, but even then, it's probably a lot uglier than the building's own cladding so what's the point? I'm convinced vertical hydroponics is a fad invented by PVC marketing companies.

>> No.1216818

>>1216815
*It's just like solar panels that tilt...

>> No.1216825

>>1216805
Spin it up and sand it down. See if you can solidly mount your drill somewhere, and attach the pipe to it with something to keep the pipe centred, like a piece of plywood that fits inside it with a dowel/smaller pipe coming out the middle that can be put in the drill chuck. You'll need a fairly low friction solution for the other end, unless the pipe is short enough to dangle from a vertical drill without hitting the floor.

>>1216815
I can see vertical hydroponics being practical if you want to fit a large amount of plants in a small area and put lights above each row, but in that image it is probably pointless, unless its better for the plants to get less light. Now tilting solar panels are more efficient because solar panels receive light proportional to the angle at which they face the sun, so when the sun is 10° above the horizon a flat solar panel will be getting shit-all, while a tilting one will be getting 100% of it. Maybe we'll get solar panels that function at greater angles sometime, but the small amount of energy it takes to actively tilt the panels is usually worth the ~2* gain in solar energy over a fixed-angled one, which itself has a ~2* gain over a flat one.

>> No.1216829

>>1216825
so when the sun is 10° above the horizon a flat solar panel will be getting shit-all, while a tilting one will be getting 100% of it

But isn't the yield per unit area of tilting panels canceled out by the massive shadow they cast when the sun is at a low angle, thereby necessitating that they be far apart? Wouldn't the total energy harvested over the day be the same regardless of whether you used an array of tilting panels, or a flat array with a larger number of panels covering the same amount of ground? (I'm not talking about single isolated panels, or a lone row of them, but an entire field. Where shadows are not an issue, obviously tilting is best.)

>> No.1216840

>>1216815
>each rack will be partly obscured by the shadow of the one in front of it
They would be quite effective during a growing season in higher (~45deg) latitudes if the growing faces were oriented east-west.
Peer-reviewed yield numbers beat talk, so until those show up, it's all speculation.

>> No.1216842

>>1208861
You could make your own with walnut husks.

>> No.1216844
File: 2.06 MB, 2126x1535, solar farm.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1216844

>>1216829
If the panels were infinitely thin and cost nothing, then yes. But they have borders, so at some angle close to 0° from the horizon, all of the sun will be obscured. Secondly, solar panels run more efficiently at higher light intensities. Thirdly, the area of a tilting panel collecting light at an angle will be less than that needed of an flat ideal panel, hence costing less. This is why static-slope panels are used in solar farms like pic related, not flat ones. When trying to stack multiple panels together, an actively tilting panel becomes less space efficient because the whole array doesn't rotate to only not receive sun on the shaded areas, plus they're extra maintenance.

>> No.1216846

>>1216815
Ive never looked into it, but from what I recall reading about them the big indoor hydroponics farms use new spectrum LED lighting. Its about cutting costs by using a lot less water while being able to cut into electricity costs with solar.

>> No.1216847

>>1216844
Actually thinking about it, it would depend greatly on how you spaced the titled panels and what angle they're on, so its still a bit up in the air.

>> No.1216848

>>1216846
Theoretically you'd be able to save power by using solar panels, because a cluster of efficient LEDs would release the solar energy at the red and green wavelengths that plants like, while the extra green light that the panel collects also gets converted into useable energy. Of course in practice, solar panels are far too inefficient.

>> No.1216849

>>1209993
You're over thinking it. Look at record shelves and build something similar. No need to get out the slide rule. Wood is pretty strong material.

>> No.1216852

>>1216840
>They would be quite effective during a growing season in higher (~45deg) latitudes if the growing faces were oriented east-west.
I don't understand why that would be the case. In fact, the higher the latitude, the less effective I would see them being because of the longer shadows.

>>1216844
>>1216847
So basically it boils down to saving money by buying less panels to cover the same amount of land? That's an interesting point that should have occurred to me Anon. I think your reasoning (about cost at least) is correct.

>>1216846
Water costs make sense. But still, I've seen drip irrigation setups used in California vineyards and I can't help but think that would be a whole lot less capital-intensive than trying to grow vertically while using most of your flat space for solar panels. Like >>1216848 says, there's also the efficiency loss to think about.

I think about this whole debate in terms of the conservation of energy: no amount of geometric magic can add additional solar energy (for growing plants or illuminating PV cells or whatever else) to an area of land beyond the sum of what that land would receive if it were perfectly flat.

>> No.1216874 [DELETED] 

i have an old small engine that either has a 25mm or 30mm metric taper. how do i tell which one it is?

>> No.1216879 [DELETED] 

i have a small engine with a metric taper, appears to be 25mm. anyone know of a 25mm taper to 1 inch adapter?

>> No.1217089

I'm 29 and I've failed to catalyze an identity for myself. Now I'm trying to pick something I can train myself in so that within 2 years I can be competent in some sort of trade. Can some anon help me brainstorm somethings I can train in at home without work history being of massive importance? I guess programming is an obvious example but I'm not very mathematically inclined.

>> No.1217194

>>1217089
>I'm 29 and I've failed to catalyze an identity for myself.

For starters you could use human language. Unless you want to work with a bunch of phony hipsters at an art gallery, then you're halfway there already.

>> No.1217200

>>1217194
So study language? That's a surprising good idea... I already have some Japanese from the year I lived there, so it's possible I could just develope that and maybe within 2 years make something productive of it. I have no idea why that ewcaped me, other than that Japanese might not be the most useful language out there. Thanks anon.

>> No.1217209
File: 513 KB, 2048x1536, anon_pol_meetup_waiting_for_the_girls_to_show.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1217209

>>1217200

great. you know japanese. you have traveled the world. and yet you don't know how to talk to your fellow man.

awesome. maybe you should write a book.

>> No.1217212

>>1217209
>front and center with the maga hat
Shaun B? Is that you?

>> No.1217378

for electrolytic rust removal, if you have a bunch of small parts would putting them all in a basket to do them all at once cause any issues with the rust removal process?

>> No.1217393

>>1217378

you can have as many as you like as long as they're all connected to the same side of the power supply. that's because the rust-removing gremlins are too dumb to count, unlike your mom who complains if you bring in too many homeless guys for her to suck.

>> No.1217408

>>1217378
How fast is electrolytic rust removal? What chemical reaction takes place? Does it turn the iron oxide into something more soluble, or does it act as a reductant?

>> No.1217415

idk if this is quite the place to ask or if anyone here has knowledge/experience with it but how would i go about preserving a sharpie signature on the DECAL of a shirt? i know that it pretty much soaks into the fabric itself when you sign a shirt but the issue is i got it signed on the screen printed or whatever part of it

>> No.1217427

>>1217408
>How fast is electrolytic rust removal?

1-4 days, depending on current, which is itself dependent on voltage and conductivity of the solution.

>What chemical reaction takes place?

the rust is transported from the piece you wanna save to a sacrificial electrode then descarted.

>> No.1217506
File: 2.97 MB, 1944x2592, IMG_20170727_202732_DRO.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1217506

So huh, after a week of heavy rains i noticed the caulk i used in my windows was removes by a cat allowing water to get in.

And i just noticed this today because water started to get in a little and saw a plant growing in the corner, should i be worried at all?

>> No.1217521

Can I grow some more plants with my venus flytrap? Can I grow a little moss in there too with it?
I know that flytraps like a dryer soil, so what other plants would grow well in there? Succulents?

>> No.1217589

>>1217427
In that case, it sounds like you put an iron anode in a general/iron electrolyte with the workpiece as a cathode and reduce the iron oxide while the sacrificial electrode oxidises. Technically you don't need a voltage at all, but you require one to get over the activation energy barrier. I imagine the actual voltage used is pretty low?

>> No.1217592

>>1217589
>I imagine the actual voltage used is pretty low?
Most people use a 12vdc battery charger @ ~2A

>> No.1217594
File: 37 KB, 657x527, drpepe.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1217594

>>1217506
nope, just make sure you give it a little fertilizer or diluted plant food and it should be fine.

>> No.1217651

>>1217592
Makes sense, but you'd think you could arrange your setup to handle much more than 2A. A correctly chosen mains transformer (or just a microwave transformer with a new 4-turn secondary) with large bank of rectifiers could pump 50A through that solution without a problem, provided you give it the conductivity and anode surface area to do so. I'm not surprised it takes a few days.

>> No.1217931

I am looking at a property that have a half destroyed mobile home on it.

I can demo most of it, burn the timbers and scrap any metal.

Whats the best way to cut the structural steel frame of it?

Has what looks like 6" wide I beams, would I be able to get by with a deep cut band saw, or would I have to get a torch?

>> No.1217940

>>1217931
>Whats the best way to cut the structural steel frame of it?
>Has what looks like 6" wide I beams, would I be able to get by with a deep cut band saw, or would I have to get a torch?


Nobody does that. You can, but typically you tear off the walls and shit and then have someone put wheels on it and pull it to a scrap yard where they sell the steel. You have to get rid of it anyway. People who move trailers have the wheel and axle assemblies and can hitch to any piece of shit you have.

>> No.1218203

AVR code question:

It seems to me that you should never do the following:

rcall address ; which will have a ret at some point so that it comes back here

ret

when you can do this instead:

rjmp address ; use the ret in that code

same thing applies to call and jmpl. but I've seen rcall followed by ret in Atmel code, so I wonder if I'm missing something here.

>> No.1218205

>>1218203
>call and jmpl.

should have been call and jmp

>> No.1218235

>>1210127
Update us, did your dad fuck you?
"I have an under the table plumbing job for you" sounds like a classic dad rape joke.

Ah, dads....

>> No.1218325

question about cellphones in america. If I have a phone that belongs to me, fully paid off, and I buy a new phone from a phone seller, not associated with my provider, assuming it's compatible with my provider, can I simply move the SIM from the old phone to the new one, or does my provider have to do anything?

Like I said, assume everything is compatible. Like the simplest case where my phone breaks and I buy an identical one.

>> No.1218338

>>1218325

If it's GSM you can switch the SIM yourself because GSM stores customer information on the card.

>> No.1218362

what company sells half decent nails? fucking lowes and home depot ones bend in half at a bad glance? I don't particularly want to forge a shit ton of them.

>> No.1218366

>>1218362

what sort of nail, and what size? tell us what the box says, and then tell us how you manage to bend a lot of them. If they are nails to use with a hammer, maybe you need more practice or better technique. If they are nail gun nails, what are you trying to fire them into?

I'm guessing this is a case of operator error. Home Depot and Lowe's sell decent stuff, not excellent, but not crap, in general.

>> No.1218414

>>1218366
I was using fast-n-rite galvanized 2.5inch framing nails going through a 2x3 into a 4x4. I was trying to ensure i hit it squar on the head. I feel my hammer accuracy is okay because of my black smiting work. the nails often bent when they were transitioning from one board to the next, and they bent right below the head making it look like a question mark

>> No.1218496
File: 15 KB, 241x209, images (3).jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1218496

Making a shooting gallery for my nephews and was thinking aluminum for the targets but I worry about ricochets. They'll just be using bb guns. Thoughts?

>> No.1218561

>>1218414
>black smiting work
You're not supposed to use a 5lb hammer on nails.

>> No.1218873

>>1218366
Fasnrite nails are fucking garbage. Got a box at Lowes a while back, used nail set hammer to start them, next hit square on the head, and 80% of them look like this Z after.

>> No.1218923

Hey /diy/, /k/ here.

I made a stupid mistake and ND'd (Negligent Discharge for you nofuns, it means shooting a gun where you weren't supposed because you fucked up) through a wall, a door and into a bathroom floor.

I'm renting this place and need to move out soon. Don't have money to pay someone to fix it. Obviously don't want the landlord knowing what happened. I need to fix the damage, concealing it as if it never happened as best as I can.

The wall and door I can deal with using wood filler and drywall stuff, but I have no idea what to do about the floor. It's all one big, unbroken piece of linoleum or vinyl (don't know how to tell the difference between those two), so I can't just patch it.

It doesn't have to look like there's no damage, it just needs to look as unlike a bullet hole as possible. I'm on a tight budget and without much skills or experience with this sort of thing. Any suggestions?

>> No.1218924
File: 51 KB, 640x480, bullet-trap.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1218924

>>1218496
Use plywood. No way in hell will the BBs pass through the plywood, and there's no real chance of ricochet either.

Of course it's not as aesthetic as any kind of metal, but it will work.

The other option is to angle it back and downwards, like pic related. That encourages ricochet but controls it in a safe direction. If it was me I'd just use plywood but if it's gotta be nice or last a long time this is the way to go.

>> No.1218927

>>1218496
/k/omrade here
tell them to shoot at an angle
also paradoxically due to relatively low FPS
bbs will ricochet off even hard pieces of lumber
t. used to shoot at a barn

>> No.1218931
File: 72 KB, 437x541, 1439406772658.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1218931

>>1218923
>suggestions
learn trigger discipline
always assume a gun is loaded even if you know it isn't

>for the hole
axe it
alternative: use a really big hammer
u aint getting your deposit back anyway

>> No.1218935

>shot of black
what did they mean by this?

>> No.1218940

>>1218931
>learn trigger discipline
I know I know I know. Trust me I've been harangued enough about it already. Funnily enough it actually happened when I was clearing the gun to make sure it wasn't loaded. I always thought I was being safe because I clear it so often, but it turns out I got so used to doing it that I was just going through the motions and not even really checking for a round in the chamber. This one time, there was one, I guess I didn't pull the handle back far enough to eject it, and when I pulled the trigger to decock it (no decocker), it went bang.

So is there no way I can patch up and/or smooth over the damage? Any tricks to patch linoleum and make it look un-broken?

>> No.1218947
File: 31 KB, 460x287, got my banana original.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1218947

>>1218940
>pulled the trigger in his house on purpose
wew
>any tricks to make it look unbroken?
only if it was tiles instead of sheet
>no way to patch?
you could try to use a filler like gr8 stuff or caulk as a base and then cut a patch from underneath the fridge or somewhere else it won't be noticed
still gonna look like ass tho
>http://homeguides.sfgate.com/patch-spots-linoleum-floors-36749.html

>doesn't want to use an axe
just say you were chopping wood inside

>> No.1219025

>>1218947
>just say you were chopping wood inside
But then his landlord will start lecturing him about lumber discipline.

>> No.1219087

What's the best way to stop rusting on a car? I don't want to make it look nice just stop the rust from going wild. The old owner hadn't done it properly so now the rust is "bubbling" back to the surface of the paint.

>> No.1219137

>>1218947
>>pulled the trigger in his house on purpose
>wew

Operators have to practice dry every night

>> No.1219138

>>1219087
Cut it all out, then properly paint the exposed good steel.

>> No.1219140

>>1219137
>>1218947
A lot of poorfag guns have no decocking mechanism at all

>> No.1219147

>>1219140
Decockers are unnecessary garbage

>> No.1219265

Is it worth buying a cheap lathe for home?

>> No.1219298

>>1219265
>Is it worth buying a cheap
never?

>> No.1219309

>>1219265

It depends on what you do. The largest lathe that fits your budget and your work space is the one you should buy if you have a need for one.

If you work on mechanical things frequently, maybe even just a few times a year, a lathe can be invaluable for making fixtures and tools and spacers etc. For example, you can easily make something out of wood to help align parts as you assemble them.

I have the cheapest piece of crap widely available, the Harbor Freight 7x10 which is actually more like 3x6 in real terms. It's great and only occasionally do I wish it were longer; I seldom need to turn a part larger than 3 inches in diameter. But if I had one twice as big and more sturdy I would be far better off.

If you can buy a "real" lathe from an estate sale or whatever, and you have the space and the electricity, then go for it. Otherwise the tiny lathes can be useful and lots of fun.

>> No.1219329

>>1218924
>>1218927

Thanks guys

>> No.1219390

This is a really stupid question but if I were to attach a high powered laser pointer that has a visible beam to a divice that spun really fast could I create a massive disk of light?

>> No.1219392

>>1219390
>could I create a massive disk of light?

Only if the air has something in it to reflect the light, such as lots of humidity, or smoke, etc.

You could draw a circle on a surface.

>> No.1219395

>>1219309
Of course i don't have any experience with this. I was thinking maybe a table top lathe for something in the future (which costs as much as a cheap computer and probably has less chance of killing me if something goes wrong) for making custom parts for small robots not bigger than 1.5 foot in height. Small gearboxes etc.

>> No.1219398

>>1219395
>Small gearboxes etc.

then a 7x10 or 9x20 would be fine for making bushings, shafts, spacers, etc., but not gears or housings, obviously.

If you buy the cheapo for $400 to $800 dollars and find that you like it, you can sell it for maybe half what you paid and get a better one. Or you could wind up like me and realize that even with its limitations it is a nice tool to have.

If you do get one check out Online Metals. They have some assortment packs, and they carry lots of cool stock like nylon which you can turn on a lathe.

>> No.1219525
File: 113 KB, 720x537, Untitled.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1219525

somebody is selling this wine cooler super super cheap, but only the top cooling compartment works.
This makes me think it's not actually a problem with the compressor but a problem with the thermostat/other electronics.

Could it be fixable?

>> No.1219652

>>1219525
Definitely, those things are probably pretty simple. But be prepared for fiddly SMD stuff. Worst case scenario almost every component is fried, but there'll only be like 6 of anything that isn't a passive, so I'd go for it. Maybe look at wine cooler schematics first.

>> No.1219662
File: 17 KB, 500x375, 31dzM9A8WZL.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1219662

Hey guys. Noob here as I've never had to deal with this in the 8 years I've had the desk. Have a nice-ish glass/metal desk. The glass top is secured invisibly on the glass with these metal cylinders (assuming an adhesive, but they came prefab so nothing I or the store did).

Recently moved and in the process one of the pieces became dislodged in 3 places. The cylinders remain, but they aren't tacky to stick or free-moving enough to rotate. It's disconcerting enough that I hazard throwing my PC or rest of my desk essentials on it. Store refuses to give me time of day because it's so old and I have no receipt (nearly a decade later).

What do? (pic related)

>> No.1219683

>>1219662
>Store refuses to give me time of day because it's so old and I have no receipt (nearly a decade later).
I wouldn't give you the time of day if you HAD the receipt. IT'S TEN YEARS LATER!
Work some clear adhesive under it.
Clean off 'squeeze out' after it dries.

>> No.1219686

>>1219683
Any recommendations? Never secured "glass"

For the record asked the store because they still offer furniture secured the same way. Wasn't expecting a replacement or anything :) Was hopeful they could give me direction.

>> No.1219687

>>1219683
>in the 8 years I've had the desk
hes (nearly..) the original purchaser tho ? They might even be related ??
shocking treatment, y'ask me. Tell that shop, you wont be back in 2024, their loss.

>> No.1219692
File: 1.03 MB, 1920x1080, IMG_20170731_213733.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1219692

Can I plug this into one outlet and not die?

>> No.1219714

>>1219692
Don't plug in more amps worth of shit than you have rated on the most significant connection

Assume your plug is 15 amp. Is your orange cable ten amp? Is the three way ten amp? Are both of the strips ten amp?

Then you could plug 9 amps into one strip and one amp into the other or 5 and 5. But not 5 and six and not 9 and 9

>> No.1219716

>>1219692
Do you know what amperage is....?

>> No.1219853

>>1219686
CA glue maybe? I wouldn't epoxy it if you've got no other options, shit will shatter the glass before it comes apart.

>> No.1219856

>>1211668
Don't, the leverage will fuck it regardless - buy a USB B extension, cut it in half and solder the cable on, then find a way to neatly secure the USB b socket, much easier/better

>> No.1219864

I'm trying to figure out the best way to repair a water damaged shower wall. I neglected a crack in the grout and now a couple of the tiles in the lower row are loose. Initially I thought I could just glue them back together with some thinset but after easily removing the loose tiles I discovered that the substrate (some sort of brown colored drywall) was in really bad shape. There were signs of mold and it was basically falling apart. I thought I would have to replace the whole wall, something that is just out of the question right now.

So I went online and found some helpful DIY articles that gave me hope. They all have a few differences here and there but they all suggest to asses the damage. So I started removing tiles around the damaged area until I found sound drywall and just like in the thisoldhouse article the damaged area was approx 3 ft. wide so I ended up taking their advice and removed a 1.5 ft. high section all the way across the 5 ft. wide back wall.

My question today is mostly about the seams of the CBU because here is where the articles differ from each other. Right now I would have a horizontal seam all the way across the back wall and two vertical seams at the change of plane. Should I caulk (silicone or latex?) or use tape and thinset mortar? Both? None?

>> No.1219866

>>1219864
(contd.)

https://www.thisoldhouse.com/ideas/saving-soggy-shower-wall
>no word about taping or caulking the seams

https://www.thespruce.com/how-to-fix-water-damaged-shower-walls-4138287
>Use latex caulk to seal the bottom edges of your board.
>Spread tile adhesive onto the seam between your new cement board and the existing drywall.
>Press fiberglass tape into the adhesive and let it dry.

http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/skills-and-know-how/masonry-and-tiling/photo-gallery-repairing-a-damaged-tile-shower-cubical-pictures
>Seal around the edges of the board with latex caulk using a caulk gun.
>Apply fiberglass tape to the joint between the new and old boards using tile adhesive.

http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=91879
>Silicone the seams

Also, is waterproofing something I should be taking into consideration? The spruce article and johnbrige thread imply that it wont make much of a difference, considering the rest of the shower is not waterproofed either.

Finally, on the johnbridge thread the op is concerned about a possible leak through the CBU seams. Is that a valid concern? It seems a bit silly to me but that's because I know nothing about this kind of stuff. Should I be concerned as well?

>> No.1219882
File: 2.63 MB, 3384x4024, IMG_20170801_202233.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1219882

Howdy /sqt/, fucked if I can work this out, maybe you can. I just moved into a rental. It's a fucking dive to be sure, but its cheap so I'll deal, because it has a fucking amazing workspace attached to the house. Only problem with it is I can't lock either of the windows, pic related.

I have considered;
> timber in the channel to stop the window from being opened
Will only work on the "inside" pane, the outside pane is free to move independently, and obviously the timber can be removed if its outside

> drilling into the aluminium frame and attaching slide vertically mounted slide bolts
There is only about 8mm between the top of the bearing channel, and the bottom of the glass. No room for anything substantial enough to resist a quick hit of a prybar.

> drilling right through both frames where they overlap at the center and bolting them both shut
I would like to be able to open them to release the smoke/fumes/winged monkeys I might generate in here, not an option I'm afraid.

The owner is basically waiting for developers to buy the joint (2-3 years) and has told me I can do whatever I wish short of burning the joint down, as long as it's reversible. Thoughts, you genius motherfuckers?

>> No.1219884

>>1219882
You could always put a removable bolt through. If you can weld a nut to the outdoors-side of the window, you could screw in the bolt by hand and it would be pretty secure. Otherwise unless anyone comes up with any other genius solutions, you should consider screwing a set of bars to the surrounding wall. Or just rig a crossbow to shoot anyone coming through the window, that would be fun.

Also:
>nice hair

>> No.1219910
File: 1.88 MB, 3120x4160, IMG_20170801_224330.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1219910

>>1219884
> bars
As much as this hovel could use all the structural reinforcement you care to throw at it (pic related, yes, that's light shining through from the other side) I'm not keen to drop that much coin into it. The crossbow is a neat idea, but would likely result in the wall it's attached to blowing out from the recoil.

We need a rental nightmare thread. I could push that shit to 404 with all the junk wrong with this place.

> nut welded to frame
This elegant shit is what I'm talking about right here. Love your work anon.

>nice hair
Thanks man, I made it myself.

>> No.1219929

>>1219882
build a door over it on the inside. just a piece of plywood on cheap hinges on one side and a hasp with a padlock on the other

>> No.1219942

>>1219910
>I'm not keen to drop that much coin into it
>implying you'd buy the bars
Either take them off a scrapyard pickup or just use a bunch of aluminium/steel tubing screwed together to make a grid of 10"x10" squares. Angle iron even. You could try screwing a warped bike wheel in front of the window so that any would-be-robber would have to cut through 40 spokes before getting in, but that does bring about a bit of a scrapshack aesthetic.

My idea for the crossbow was to have it on the floor and shoot upwards (with some thick board protecting the ceiling) when a tripwire was pushed, but you could just as easily put a smoke bomb or a few blasting caps as the trap instead, either one would probably scare him shitless. Or how about a speaker that plays footsteps getting louder from a far room?

If a burglar doesn't mind breaking a window then he's getting in regardless of what bolts you have, at which point it's up to bars or bullets. But a locked house will deter a lot of burglars looking for an easy steal.

>> No.1219968

>>1219864
Personally, I would not faff around with the silastic on the wall IF you use a two part (latex and cement) tile adhesive. I'd just make sure there was a good smear of the tile adhesive across/in the join line. The stuff sticks like shit to a blanket and it is considerably more water resistant than standard tile cement.

But don't fool yourself that it is anything but a temporary repair. Here, the building standard for wet areas is fibre cement board and then fully waterproofing that with a polyester coating to well above the shower/bath height - basically insurance companies got fed up with paying for repairs to soggy showers so a new waterproofing standard was developed.

The devil is in the detail for waterproofing - see what is recommended in the cement board manufacturer's literature, or if you can't find that, see this - http://www.csparchitectural.com.au/uploads/downloads/james-hardie/Wet%20Area%20Construction%20Application%20Guide%20November%202012.pdf

>> No.1219995

>>1207858
Is there any way to erase a phone without ever touching it? Something like having a strong magnet in your backpack or whatever

>> No.1220087

Would it be possible to make a soundboard for a string instrument out of hide, like the skin of a drum? I have an idea for a crazy kind of lyre.

>> No.1220140
File: 381 KB, 1336x2048, 1491341502429.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1220140

>>1207858
I want to make my own 250+ watt FM Radio Transmitter. Does anybody know of good books for that?

>> No.1220190
File: 297 KB, 1992x1494, nigrig.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1220190

how would I go about putting a new panel jack into these?
what's the nut for on them?

>> No.1220192

>>1219995
No. Stop trying to be a cunt you cunt.

>> No.1220195

>>1219910

Still won't help if someone just smashes the window to get in, and crackheads / methamphibians will do that.

Sorry anon. Bars are your best bet. Since your mods are supposed to be removable, you can just take them with you when you leave, recoup sunk cost by re-using later for sex dungeon

>> No.1220278

>>1220190
The panel jack is usually inserted from the rear, and the nut on the front stops it from popping back inside when you put any force on it. You'll need enough room to mount the thing parallel to a surface unless you plan on securing the thing with a mess of hot glue.

Chances are there isn't enough room behind the main circular panel, so you might want to bodge a short wire with a socket on the end of it to the headphones instead. But if you can take them apart to see without destroying them then that's what I'd do.

>> No.1220299
File: 44 KB, 580x386, Facepaw.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1220299

>>1207858
I installed a new radio in my car. At first I mismatched two wires, this caused a capacitor to blow. I have corrected the wiring and everything is working with no issue. Is this safe to use with the blown capacitor?

>> No.1220313

>>1220299

a blown cap tends to be an open circuit, so nothing worse is likely gonna happen to it.

>> No.1220337

>>1219882
My neighbor had a similar issue. He ended up bolting a big chunk of metal with louvers ghetto cut into it to his wall.
Seems to have work so far. Still get airflow.

>> No.1220357

I want to make furniture out of old pallet planks, what is the quickest way to glue many planks to make a board? how about the cheapest?

>> No.1220398

>>1208595
Planer/jointer would work the best imo. I'd use a compound miter saw after planing to cut to size. I fucking hate table saws though, watched someone lose a finger in the woodshop.

>> No.1220408

>>1219968
Thanks for replying. I purchased a bag of Versabond Fortified Thin-Set Mortar. The package says it is polymer modified. Couldn't find anything with 'latex' on the package. Am I good? When filling the seams with the mortar, should I do the vertical seams at the change of plane as well?

That link was extremely informative. Wish I could find something similar for the US so I can use it in the future. Unfortunately most of these new installation manuals/tutorials rarely help me clear my doubts when doing a repair like this one because either it wasn't installed correctly the first time or the house is too old or there is some other complication. For instance, I don't think I will be able to sit the cement board over the shower pan lip (the shower pan in this bathroom is made of plastic btw) like the manuals say I'm supposed to because the pan was installed too far from the studs. The original wall was sitting at the edge of the lip and the gap behind the first row of tiles and the lip (about 1/4") was filled with some sort of glue or mastic. Shims wouldn't work since the back wall was installed before the sides, meaning the sides are sitting a little bit over the back wall, and there wouldn't be enough space left to fit the tiles at the inner corners. Plus it probably will be out of level with the rest of the wall. So now I don't know what to do about it. Can I get away with installing it like it was before, or should I abort and close this bathroom until next summer? What is the reason behind setting the board over the lip anyway?

>But don't fool yourself that it is anything but a temporary repair.
Oh, absolutely. Money is tight right now (I just had the roof fixed) so all I ask for is a head start (a year maybe?) to save some money for a remodel.

>> No.1220413
File: 69 KB, 570x291, what_the_fook_can_you_be_usefull_for.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1220413

I have a shit ton of these what could I do with them?

>> No.1220450

>>1220413
stick it into you know what

>> No.1220462

So I might be coming into possession of a job lot of 30 PC monitors of varying sizes. I'm going to keep the best of the bunch for myself and friends, but what should I do with the others? I thought about making a few of those Magic Mirror things that display the date/notifications/time/etc using RPis and then selling them, but I'm not sure how much of a market for them there is where I am.

There are 14 which are all the same size and I was considering mounting them all to a stand and making a 90s Hackerman sort of wall, but I've no idea how to get them all running off one PC.

Anyone got any creative or interesting ideas for a load of mediocre to shit PC monitors? I'll monitor this & the next thread as well.

>> No.1220469
File: 171 KB, 502x520, 1482170136723.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1220469

>>1219025
>>1219137
>>1219140
>want OP to waste his time when he is never getting his deposit back
good job /diy/mons
>condone pulling triggers in their houses
baka so hard
t. nugget owner

>> No.1220491

>>1219929
Shutters.. Not bad. There will eventually be a bench in front of the windows that will sit about 100mm higher than the sill. Plenty of room to access a nut but no good for swinging covers. Outside would be a better option, I just need to set them up so the hinges and their screws are covered over when they are closed, with padbolts top and bottom on the inside that can only be unlocked by opening the windows from inside the shop. Prevents people from scoping out all the horribly obsolete computer hardware I have stored in here while I'm out as well. Never considered such a grand construction but I have the ply spare, might indeed do the job.

>>1219942
>>1220337
>>1220195
> Bars
I just.. psychologically can't do it. My primary school had barred windows, and it always felt like even more of a jail than it was as a result, plus there is crazy nice bushland behind the house, I wouldn't mind an unimpeded view of that. I think the other guy is onto something with the shutters, as elegant as the welded nut idea is, it's still going to be a 5-6mm maximum bolt size I can use, which is not much more secure than the vertically mounted slide bolts I brained up. I can still reuse the ply after I leave to make a box to store my gimp in; the holes from the hinges should allow just enough air to keep him alive, but docile, right?

Appreciate the input anons, I'ma buy some hardware on the weekend, will post results in this or the next thread.

>>1220462
Your market is the entire internet, make them well enough and peeps will buy them. As to your hackerman wall, the cheapest cards I can think of that will run 4x displays are quadro NVS 420's, 4 PCI slots will give you 16 displays at decent resolution, shouldn't be more than $70USD for a used card. The hippy in me however says hold onto them, source some cheap/free desktops, and give them to poor people that need a basic internet machine. Good karma maaan.

>> No.1220495

>>1220491
I was thinking about making some Pi based Arcade machines and donating them to a youth centre in my area. I feel like I could pretty them up well enough to sell internationally as well. What do you think is a reasonable price to sell one for? Seeing as people repaint an old nightstand and sell it as shabby chic for like $200 on etsy, am I wrong in thinking I could make similar money?

What does one even do with a hackerman wall though? I'm not looking to game or watch anything on them. Alternatively there's a digital art gallery that's just opened up in my city, I might do something for that with them

>> No.1220496
File: 61 KB, 540x960, [.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1220496

>>1220495
Ha this is my full time job

>> No.1220504

>>1220495
> Pi based Arcade machines and donating them to a youth centre in my area
Neat! The hippy says yes, BUT be sure they are donations only. If you use commercial ROMs you leave yourself open to copyright rape, especially if you are selling them, but even as donations some faggot might drop a dime on you for distributing copyright material without authorisation. You could build the platform and donate/sell it with no games, and if someone chooses to breach copyright by obtaining a ROM and importing it by following the instructions you provide, that's not your business now, is it? Consider other functions that may be useful to kids who haunt youth centers. They may not have internet access at home, perhaps some basic web ability for email, youth support websites and other relevant access would be appreciated.

As to pricing, you want to either be competitive by making "good enough" for cheap, or command a good price by going full retard with good quality parts, cabinet decals and trim ( if "I feel like I could pretty them up well enough to sell internationally" is anything to go by, you might be able to pull off, I don't know how good you are at what). You'll first need to work out what you can do with the skills you have, then look around for what other people are getting for comparably sized/quality hardware. Cost your buttons, sound hardware, controller boards and build materials (look for places that offer discounts for 10+ of the same items, bulk buy is best buy), add 15% for your time, boom, there's your price. If you can work out a gimmick (for want of a better word) to set yourself apart from the rest, all the better.

> What does one even do with a hackerman wall though?
Porn. All of it. They will tell you it's for monitoring backhaul links and servers, but as soon as the boss leaves, blam, wall of winking anuses.

>>1220496
Nice. Homebrew? Do you sell? How do you get around dem laws?

>> No.1220508

>>1220504
Thankfully I live in a place where no-one's all too clued up on Copyright law but even so thanks for the warning. I'm liking your idea of basic web browsing. Apparently you can install Chromium OS on them, and I know it comes with all the basics like a browser and document editing software and it looks Windows-y enough for the average joe to be able to use, without being expensive or illegal.

I have a friend who frames and mounts pictures for a living interested in helping me, and I can do the technical side of it and the easy parts of creating the mounts.

Thank you for your help secret hippy man, I was going to post this on /g/ but they seem to be more interested in battlestations and Red vs Green/Blue wars than actual technology, plus they'll probably just tell me it's a meme.

>> No.1220521

im building a functioning flamethrower attached to an armpiece for one of my cosplays, and i want to build a small (as in wearable on your arm) rechargeable gastank connected to a solenoid valve
problem is i dont know shit about pipes or gas in general, how hard would this be?

>> No.1220526

>>1220521
>im building a functioning flamethrower attached to an armpiece for one of my cosplays, and i want to build a small (as in wearable on your arm) rechargeable gastank connected to a solenoid valve
>problem is i dont know shit about pipes or gas in general, how hard would this be?

I fucking love this board.

>> No.1220530

>>1220526
gotta start somewhere man
i already got the programming and electronics down the way i want it, just need the actual gas and make the ignition work

>> No.1220543

>>1220508
As far as copyright goes. I think the pi is under a allowed to be re sold license. If you're worried about game copyright go to itch.io look up some games, find some that you like. Chances are you can contact the creator and they would allow you to redistribute their game. 4chan has an actual community there AGDG. So you could distribute a homebrew game on a homebrew arcade machine in a youth center.

>> No.1220547
File: 54 KB, 1000x1000, 28767dd2-a304-43f0-a8bd-4099c0cf32a5_1000.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1220547

>>1220530


You're not gonna get rechargeable without serious equipment. But you could get away with an acetylene burner. The talks are pretty cheap, like 20-30 bucks depending on where you get them. Not exactly a flammenweffen but it gets the fire going...
It's not exactly hard but its risky. Since pressure build up tends to resolve itself with explosive decompression

>> No.1220681
File: 1.67 MB, 1630x3753, IMG.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1220681

I left the remote of my AC on the armrest of the sofa yesterday night, when I woke up today I found it felled on the sofa's sitting part and when I tried to switch on it didn't work /blank screen).
I tried changing the batteries but nothing happened, when it fell from the armrest it probably bumped on the screwdriver toolbox thar was on the sofa near where I found it and something probably moved inside.

This is the remote without the back cover, does anything look out of place? I'm not knowledgeable of EE but I thought the battery plates could be disconnected, though it seems they are still all right.

What do? I'm in luck that the AC was running when I went to sleep so I won't die cooked alive but if I leave it on 24/7 till the end of summer, it's probably gonna cost me an eye and I think the neighbors will be kinda pissed if I leave it running at night every day since the engine outside isn't very silent.

>> No.1220682
File: 1.57 MB, 3804x1512, IMG2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1220682

Here is another scan, I don't have a good quality camera so I'm trying with a 600 dpi scanner.

>> No.1220685
File: 2.88 MB, 4032x3024, IMG_2050.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1220685

Hello /diy/

I recently put up this small gutter downspout thing on the corner of the house since the water would trickle down and fuck up the brick (which you can see)

Usually when you put a gutter system, there is a bit of roof that hangs over into the gutter system, but since this corner was at an angle, this is not the case

My problem is that the water might go behing the plastic and the brick at the very top, deafeating the purpose of this, so I wanted to ask you, what kind of paste or something would you put between the plastic and the brick? I bought some roof cement, but i'm just trying to make sure.

>> No.1220701
File: 92 KB, 768x1024, remote.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1220701

How do I know if this remote is compatible with the AC brand I use?
The AC is at least 6 years old and it's a Chinese brand called KAWAY that doesn't even own a website.

>> No.1220703

>>1220681
In the bottom right hand corner the top battery connector is connected to the circuit board but on the image it looks as though the bottom terminal isn't connected, it should go to the other metal clip on the board next to the first.

It might just be hard to see in the picture.

That's about all I could say, most of the interesting stuff is on the other side of the board but none of it will be possible to fix if broken.

>> No.1220704
File: 2.21 MB, 3264x1836, 20170802_175533.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1220704

What you see here is a painted sandstone deco on the lower part of a home which is about a meter away from a street. In some areas the paint and some of the rock behind it falls away easily, from what appears to be water and salt damage or piss poor painting.

What should be done to preserve this? Should I replace it with something more durable?

>> No.1220706

>>1220685
Your picture is really hard to make out but the roof slopes down and meets the wall? There should be flashing, lead usually or plastic possibly. Typically when this is installed it's done to accommodate the guttering, there is a kind of channel drain and downspout in the roof.
The bricks are going to get a little wet, they are outside. A little water shouldn't hurt but anything waterproof covering the wall will do the job, bit of plastic screwed to the wall or something. Look like haemorrhoids though lol.

>> No.1220707

>>1220703
I wanted to avoid opening it completely since looks like delicate parts are in the way but I guess there's nothing to lose now.
I started looking for alternatives (>>1220701) for the worst case scenario by the way.

>> No.1220710

>>1220704
Apologies about the photo size and rotation.

>> No.1220715
File: 1.42 MB, 3509x1388, Untitled.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1220715

>>1220703
Well, opening it was more easy than I thought but sadly this scanner is useless. I don't think there's an option to remove auto-focus.

>> No.1220718

>>1220706
Correct, the roof does slope down to the wall, but I notice that when it rains, the water constantly goes through the corner at a pretty good flow and washes down on the brick

The roof cement I bought was only a dollar and change, I'll see how thick that is and see if I can put it in between to experiment a little

>> No.1220719

Topkek the remote works now, all I did was reassemble it and now it works. Chinese magic.

>> No.1220754

Can I hook a shop vac to a dimmer switch
I want to run the blower and 1/2,1/4 power

>> No.1220758

>>1220754
I did this by taping/pipe clamping a regular water valve into the output hose. I may have used PVC as well? Worked fine, but I wasn't doing it for very long.

>> No.1220761

>>1220754
Dimmer designed for a filament bulb will handle resistive loads. Motors are inductive.
Not good.

>> No.1220764

>>1220754
>Can I hook a shop vac to a dimmer switch

yes, if your goal is to destroy the dimmer.

the shop vac uses about 3x the rated current. plus it has a motor, which means it probably draws 10x the rated current for a short time when you switch it on.

>> No.1220767

>>1220754
I don't think an induction motor would take well to PWM, though it might be fine since the PWM frequency is 60Hz. An autotransformer variac will work, if you really want.

>> No.1220773

>>1220767

shop vacs use universal motors, with brushes, not induction motors. they'd be much larger and heavier if they used induction motors.

>> No.1220788

>>1220761
>>1220767
>>1220764

Thanks
Is there a way I can get variable speed on a shop vac some other way. What about a fan?

>> No.1220793

>>1220788

someone has already suggested a variac: they're big, expensive, and dangerous (unless you hide them in a box).

there do exist industrial-level dimmers specifically made for tools. they're obviously not cheap, tho i found one for a router, capable of 15A motor loads, for $4 at the thrift store.

>What about a fan?

if you mean a fan speed controller: definite NO!

>> No.1220798

>>1220793

Comparing different router speed controls :
https://woodgears.ca/router_table/speed_control.html

>> No.1220829

Thank you all very much for the info on the shop vac

>> No.1220843
File: 32 KB, 668x360, 20096261514305.gif.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1220843

>>1220754
If the dimmer power rating is equal to or greater than the power consumed by the shop vac, yes.

>> No.1220938

guys im doing a painting job for 1500 square feet all inclusive. Just interior. 5 bed, 2 bath how much should I charge for this bid??? I've never done a whole house before Im scared hold meeeeeeeee

>> No.1220955

>>1220793
He could always make his own TRIAC from however highly rated BJTs he needs and use a correctly rated DIAC. And those transistors had better be in TO-220 packages because you'll probably need a fuck ton of heat sinking. You'll probably have to choose the transistors around the trigger specs of the DIAC, but it's probably possible.

>> No.1220983

Oven electronic control board doesn't turn on.

Igniters work so not a circuit problem.

Do I need a new control board? I pulled out the board and all the parts look fine except one microchip has a tiny bit of white crust on it. Is that the culprit?

>> No.1220987

>>1220715
You could always get up off your fat ass and adjust the AC when necessary. How often are you adjusting it anyway? Just set the temp and leave it the fuck alone until the season changes.

>> No.1221023

What kind of insulation tubing do I need for the pipe going from the outside ac unit to the inside of the house and where can I purchase it?

>> No.1221028

>>1220681
Assuming the remote's case itself wasn't in any way damaged or breached. Did you rest on the buttons? Then probably the LED or its driver transistor has burned out.
It's a long shot, but the crystal on the back could have broken. If you're lucky it'll just be a plain old 32.768kHz watch type and they'll have replacements at even a Radio Shack-class store.
Of course you'll need a soldering iron to fix any of this.

>>1221023
Polyethylene foam, same as you would use on a water pipe. Make sure the ID matches the refrigeration pipe's OD.

>> No.1221059
File: 246 KB, 1456x819, g9EXSAgr.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1221059

Got this all for $45 a couple of days ago, and the commutator on the impact is pitted to hell and back. It looks like someone spilled motor oil in it and then continued using it heavily, because it was full of black paste from the brushes, so much so that the commutator was just one smooth black mass, no distinction between commutator bars. Got it all cleaned up, but it's pitted. Do the bars on a commutator need to be a specific thickness, or would it do more damage getting it in a lathe and getting it smoothed out?

>> No.1221060

>>1221028
>Polyethylene foam
Thanks.

>> No.1221061

>>1221059
You could thin them down, but chances are they're already thin enough. If you can see a good couple of mm thickness that you think taking extra material off will help then sure, as long as the brushes can still reach it. If the copper is too thin you'll start to get significant resistive losses through the commutator bars. While you're putting the rotor on the lathe, you might as well remove a little material off the laminations if your turning has put the thing out of balance.

>> No.1221069

>>1221061
Yeah, I think you're probably right about being thin enough, anything I'd do on the lathe would probably be too aggressive. Do you think I could probably get away with just a light sanding? Open it up, keep half the shell in place, remove the brushes assembly, wrap some very fine sandpaper around the commutator, put a long bit in the chuck and chuck the other end into a drill, spin it around a bit.

>> No.1221075

>>1221069
Since you have access to a lathe you could attempt to turn them down and fit a turned copper pipe sleeve over them which you'd probably have to solder in place with silver solder. Then you'd turn that sleeve down and cut slots in it with a slitting saw. It's a lot of work but it will probably give you a good-as-new finish provided the copper is the right grade and you do the cutting well, not to mention not cooking the windings' epoxy.

How badly does it run at the moment? You could always look for a replacement armature.

>> No.1221079

>>1221075
Ehh, I have the lathe, but even using it just to turn stuff down precisely would still be part of the learning curve of "new to owning a metal lathe", and getting a slitting saw would cost more than a replacement part from DeWalt, much less a 3rd party. It runs fine now, it just sparks a lot, so it'll get worse over time. I'm thinking I'll try the sanding, worst-case scenario, I'm down to just a Milwaukee and Kobalt impact.

>> No.1221093

>>1221079
You could try to fill in the pitting with solder to stop the wear on the brushes, though I'm not sure what effect that would have.

>> No.1221129

>>1221061
>you might as well remove a little material off the laminations if your turning has put the thing out of balance.

Not a good idea. How would that help, anyway? The typically balance rotors by grinding a bit out of the OD here and there, and if you remove much of that you will have un-balanced the hell out of it.

>> No.1221139

>>1221129
I mean, if your work puts the thing off balance, you can rebalance it by putting it in a couple of bearings (or just on the lathe) and seeing which side it rotates towards, then grinding off a little of the heavy side at a time.

>> No.1221143
File: 1.50 MB, 2160x2160, 20170803_175109.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1221143

I have an old house, sitting on piles. And I am going to insulate the subfloor, I am wondering what you guys recommend. I'm torn between polystyrene and fiberglass batts.

I'm leaning towards batts as (from what I understand) it has better insulation properties, but prone is to sagging. Whereas polystyrene is easy to install, but has lower thermal capacity.

Any advice from someone with experience ? The plan is to place the batts and lay strips or plastic strapping or something to prevent sagging.

Picture related, my subfloor - cheers for replies in advance.

>> No.1221159

>>1221143
>sitting on piles
Sounds painful.

>tfw captcha thinks a mailbox is a street sign

>> No.1221162
File: 117 KB, 800x600, telescopic pole.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1221162

I want to make an automatic telescopic pole that extends itself by pressing a button or a trigger, maybe with a spring mechanism, I'm not sure.

>> No.1221177
File: 143 KB, 1231x405, Insulation Support.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1221177

>>1221143
>something to prevent sagging

>> No.1221269
File: 441 KB, 1204x640, Traktor-S8-Top-View.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1221269

I need to come up with a method to make a bunch of silicone rubber buttons for a panel like pic related. I've tried to simply cut them out of a silicone rubber sheet, but the material stretches just slightly and the shapes end up distorted.

I was thinking I could order them cut online, haven't found anywhere that supplies thick enough silicone though. Ponoko only cuts clear silicone up to 0.5mm thick.

I've found some custom keypad places online, but it seems expensive because they incorporate the switch mechanism into the silicone.

The closest I can get is to get the buttons made out of a plastic instead; which is far from ideal.

Anyone know of an easy way to do this?

>> No.1221328

>>1221269
Buy some mould-making/casting silicone and pour them into a mould. Maybe there's a machine-shop that wouldn't mind taking the contract to make a nice mould out of aluminium for you. Or even better, buy one of the plastic button caps, pour resin around it, cut it open, and use that as the mould for the silicone. You can colour the silicone with special pigments and dyes too.

>> No.1221529

I want to glue a couple of planks of wood to make a board. I know that the sides of each board much match perfectly for it to look good and that the way to do that is to use a plane to joint them together.

would it work if i use a belt sander instead of a plane?

>> No.1221600

>>1221529
>if i use a belt sander instead of a plane?
It will work if you use a pocket knife if you can make them align perfectly
(common way is to make both as flat as possible)

>> No.1221656

Is etsy a viable platform to sell one of a kind scrollsaw pieces?

>> No.1221675

>>1221656
Viable, not good. Use it while also running your own website, and kinda use it to help advertise the site.

>> No.1221707
File: 228 KB, 1024x768, close_up_butterfly_pyrography_by_kenazart-d7a9xn8.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1221707

I'm building a desk and want to put a pattern on the desktop. I really like the look of woodburning, but want to have a nice flat working surface. Would it be reasonable to burn the design, then level the surface with a clear resin? Or is there a way to burn the pattern without creating a relief?

>> No.1221939

>>1221675
Running my own website seems like it'd get very little traction, as I do not really know many people who are looking to buy some scrollsaw art projects. Things like shadow boxes or just normal patterns on it. I'll look into it more though.

>> No.1221974
File: 105 KB, 1536x2048, received_10213506576360024.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1221974

Hey guys, can I paint directly on that wall or do I need to put something on it beforehand? Seems like some kind of wood.

>> No.1222518

>>1221143
What I've seen done with Batts is:
>bats between joists
>acoustic sealant on joist edge
>vapor barrier (poly sheet) stapled to acoustic sealant creating cells
The main thing is to prevent air flow, which the vapor barrier/fibre glass will do. I think polystyrene is usually for below ground concrete, that's all I've used it for

>> No.1222558
File: 149 KB, 728x484, 12x12-reclaimed-wood-drafting-desk-2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1222558

Where can I find a cheap version of the hardware used to control the tilt on this hipsterbait drafting table? I'd prefer it be the rod type rather than the ratcheting type.

>> No.1222670

>>1222558

you can download the entire drafting table from here.

https://thepiratebay.org/torrent/13979123/Autodesk_AutoCAD_2017_%28x64%29___Keygen_%5BSadeemPC%5D.zip