/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>1157963
We posted this thread the same second. with the same file, kek.

Add this to the general info
https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base

>1157911
Post pics so we can judge them and make you feel bad about yourself

Just kidding, im really interested.

If you are searching for help please give us photo and the following information.

>printer
>filament type
>extruder temp
>bed temp
>fan speed

>>1157911
Post pics so we can judge them and make you feel bad about yourself

Just kidding, im really interested.

>>1157969
I'm not the usual OP, sorry.

>>1157754
>Do you guys ever make anything useful with your $500 machines or is it all ugly statues and autism spinners?

I make miscellaneous components and tools for the laboratory because it's absurd how much some chintzy bits of plastic cost when they're in a lab supply catalogue. I also design adjuncts for the equipment because, for all the ingenuity that went into some devices, there can be some pretty stupid design flaws.

Hey guys I'm writing a program to create my own gcode from a tool path, can anyone tell me how to calculate what my flow and feed rate please

>>1158097
What language?

This a is pretty good start:
http://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math

>>1158105
Thanks! that seem to be what I'm looking for. I did think that the feed rate should be tied in how you calculate the flow rate though I see no mention in it in the manual?

I'm writing it in MATLAB, I'm new to programming and 3D printing but this seemed like a good project

>>1158111
MATLAB might not be the best choice for this particular task but its doable. It is a good language for anything tho.

>>1158114
Would you say it's worth learning properly for a mech eng?

>>1158116
Its fine, for that general field.

>>1157963
im getting a rough top layer

for prints so far, ive been using only 2 top layers:
the first layer that goes down in pretty smooth, but the last/second layer is rough (slight line overlap?)

am i over extruding?

>>1157981
I do this too.

Of course my PI does not appreciate it and does not notice the savings I have made by not having to buy ridiculously overpriced plastic pieces for the lab.

>>1157974
Sure. I'm planning on making maybe little robot figures and molding/casting those, but that's still a little iffy.

>>1157963

The beginning of my sign. I have some tweeks to make, but all-in-all it's turning out how I wanted it to look.

>>1158836
Neat. Is it printed and lit from the inside? It looks kind of like a cut EL panel and too smooth to be printed.

>>1158878

Yeah, it's hard to see the imperfections when you stand back about 2-3 feet.

I just experimented with printing on blue painters tape for the first time...
fuck it feels like I'm cheating now
I wish I would have done this earlier

Printing PLA, fine.
Printing PETG, the extruder squeels like a motherfucker. Why?

Hey, I'm actually from /cgl/'s resin >>>/cgl/9415685 thread but I figured this board would know more about 3D printing.
Basically, I want to 3d print something and use it to make a silicone mold to pour epoxy resin into. How hard would it be to get a nice smooth mold from a 3d print? I know if I can't get my mold to be shiny then my resin piece will come out cloudy and I'm hoping to avoid that. Thanks in advance for the spoonfeeding

>>1158937
Holy shit, there's a resin thread? I wish I had known about this earlier.

It's... kind of a mixed bag with printing. Either you can get the somewhat-expensive professional 3D printing company to print a master for you and hope for minimal striation, or you can give ABS prints a vapor bath and smooth them that way.

I took a third route and sanded my parts by hand. I don't recommend PLA, as ABS seems MUCH easier to sand, but PLA has higher surface detail and is easier to print with, so I had to deal with it. Pic related is the results I got - I don't remember if I coated the master in polyurethane before casting or not. The difference is I used silicone caulk for the left cast and "expired" Oomoo 30 for the right one.

>>1158836
>>1158887
noice

where did you get those led strips?

>>1158937
anon >>1158969 has some good points
I'd recommend a fourth way though, which would be SLA/DLP printing
this way you could even skip the casting process entirely for prototypes and small production runs
the first sub $1k units are showing up to the market right now
and resin can be bought for ~$60/kg
if you don't need to many prints and aren't interested in 3d printing as a hobby in itself
look on 3dhubs.com for local printer owners willing to print for cash
the best but most time intensive way would be to diy your own printer
see the sticky >>1157963 for resources on that
>SLA&DLP
>http://www.buildyourownsla.com/
>http://www.nanodlp.com/

I got a Anet A8, as soon as I start to print there is no filament extruded. Motors + Extruder work, theres jusut no filament coming out. Any ideas?

>>1159126
When you say your extruder works, are you actually advancing it via the menu? My bet is your bed is too high. Either that or your hot end was incorrectly assembled (like mine was) and your tube liner's already melted.

>>1159124
>>1158969
Thanks for the advice. I think I'm gonna pay someone else to print it for me, I have access to some 3D printers but I have to share them with everyone else in my college and there's people actually trying to print projects relevant to their schoolwork and I don't wanna take up their slots. I'm not really interested into getting into 3D printing, just printing a few masters so I can cast a silicone negative and use that to make resin jewelry.
Yes we do have a resin thread but it's geared towards resin jewelry, UV resin, and other decorative uses for it, instead of more "practical" things like this board likes, such as epoxy countertops

I have a sintron i3 prusa printer kit with mk8 extruder.
The thing that interests me is it possible that the hotend gets to 210 celsius in just a few minutes?
I mean I've read preheating takes a lot of time, and I have 12V PSU so I figured it would take some time.
I tried printing PLA and the filament started to smoke, the hotend was too hot to touch and I couldn't get a read on temperature with my laser termometer

>>1159164
How would I see that the tube liner is melted?

>>1158933

Too-low extrusion temp?

>>1158937

If you are handy with painting, all you need is to sand and paint the piece. The primer and paint should be enough to fill in the little gaps between layers. Some companies sell a clearcoat that does the same (XTC-3D). Another method, under some specific conditions, is to print with PLA and go over it with a heatgun.

>>1159253
I fiddled with it from 220 to 260, no change. It doenst do it when its retracting.

>>1159260

Is it a motor coil type squeal? Have you tried increasing the driver current?

>>1159225
Disassemble the hot end. If you can actuallt get plasic to extrude, it's nothing to worry about.

>>1159225
The plastic slowly dribbles out, I even put a new nozzle.

>>1159262
Nope, it sournd like rasping or something

>>1159287
>>1159298
I can extrude by pushing with my hand. Its just annoying.

Ill disassemble the extruder and see if assembling it again gets rid of the problem

Didn't know where else to post this but I am so happy, just got a summer internship with Formlabs :)

>>1159349
Most likely half of the active posters in these threads are working in the field. Show us something cool when (or if) you can.

>>1159355
Yes! Once I can, I will. Never gonna leave my favorite board :^)

>>1159355
>not being part of the NEETlyfe

>>1159051

You can get them on ebay or amazon. Look up WS2812b. They come in strips that you can cut and solder. If you get these you need a power source obviously and a controller. The good thing about these are they're individually addressable so you can change it section by section, or even within the same section.

>>1159349

Ask them when they're going to make affordable home resin printers.

>>1159198
I'm >>1158969 and frankly I love those types of things. I tried making epoxy/casting generals here a few months back but they never really took off. I've been wanting to print/mold/cast figures for a while now but have been having issues with lack of creativity/designs.

>>1159349
Lucky bastard, nobody except HP wanted to take me and that would have been a customer support position. Good luck with the internship.

>>1159420
look towards DLP for affordable but be ready for some research towards how to set it up and calibrate it properly

whenever I print in PETG the part is really brittle
should I increase print temp to help with layer adhesion between the layers?
I was printing at 240 and now I moved it to 250

>>1157963
cura wont slice the manually placed supports in the object i export from mesh mixer

how can i make the supports included?

>>1159700
post pic

>>1159606
This happens to me too. I can break a benchy with some effort while i cant break the one made out of PLA no matter how hard i try.

I tried 220 and 260 too, no change, except the 260 looked worse.

>>1159606
>>1159712
Dehumidify your filament. increase your extrusion rate to 103-106%

>>1159504
>I've been wanting to print/mold/cast figures for a while now but have been having issues with lack of creativity/designs.
I'm going to be building a spincasting system this month and will post photos in this thread.

I'm just doing silicone molds to cast Urethane and Epoxy parts because those are significantly cheaper than casting zinc while still getting as-good or better mechanical properties.
A lot less equipment to buy/make as well. The companion tools I need are already available at work (vacuum pumps, scales, vacuum jars, and so on).

>>1159875
Was a brand new filament in an intact vacuum package. Will try extruding more.
Bridging looks like hell with this, it just sticks to the previous lines and drags them along.

My first two little failures.
First one was using brim instead of raft, it all popped off pretty quickly, second one with a raft, was going well until it got stuck to the nozzle and ripped off the raft.

I'm guessing the gaps are due to too much fast? It was 80mm/s print speed, 120 movement speed, I have turned these down and made the walls thicker and the print a little bit bigger, does this seem reasonable or am I all wrong?

Also my filament makes a tiny popping noise, is this due to moisture in the filament? It's the cheap free shit it came with.

With regards to build plate, will I get crucified for just taping down some paper? It seems to stick pretty well and it's cheaper than that £30 build tack stuff.

>>1159987
Would help is I attached the image.

This is from the Malyan m200/Mp select mini clone.

What do you guys use for cooling PLA?
I was using a ducted 40mm fan and while the front was okay, parts in the back or even front facing if not on the external face were always meh (even at lower temperatures like 180°C).
I tried make one of those ring fans but it doesn't work that well, it just moved the bad side from the back to the front-right, but I just made it roughly copying another one I saw so it's probably not working because the model is shit.

Should I keep trying with the ring cooling fans or the problem is somewhere else?

Pic related, red mark is the front direction.
If you look at the bottom right part you see the teeth are "drifting" counter clockwise (direction of printing), while the top left teeth are way better, the other sides are in between.

>>1159987
>>1159988
Those are really sad. Let's go from the bottom up:
- Don't bother taping down paper, just use blue painter's tape as your base (it sucks for the long run, but it works).
- Yes, that popping noise is the moisture your freebie filament has sucked out of the air exploding. Sucks, and I'd buy some better, but probably not the cause of your pic.
- How slow is slower? I'm running at 60/120 and getting good prints. I'd start with 40/120, go from there.
- Lastly, are you using any infill? The right hand one looks sort of hollow.

>>1160046
You're really sad.

Almost finished the little Buddha, then it started wobbling more as it got taller, then the nozzle started trying to put layers down too low and knocked him off the raft. Should I be adding more support around his feet? I'm trying a little cube now so I'll see how that goes.

Should I be printing this guy on his back or something?

>>1160046
Using like 10% infill, they are tiny so I didn't think it would be needed. I notice when it is printing the supports inside it goes really fast and just fills it with a birds nest, would this be the bridging speed I need to adjust? I can't seem to find a setting for it in curator, or would it be infill speed?

>>1160187
Birds nest for reference

>>1160186
Is that pla?
Looks like you're printing with not enough cooling, meaning no fan or the piece is so small that each layer doesn't have time to cool down. But given the apparent size, I'll say that no amount of fans will help.
Check "minimum layer time" and "allow head lift to cool off", something like that, I don't recall the exact name.
Or print 6 at the same time.
And turn down the temp as much as you can (those aren't functional parts so it's fine).

>>1160194
Yeah, it's pla.

It is the mp mini select clone so it does have a little fan right on the print head. The printer/cura wants to default to 200c, is maybe 180 better for this?

Thanks for the suggestions, i'll give them a look.

I'm reprinting it laying down and with some supports, it looks like it is going alright so far.


The printer has started making a grinding noise when trying to feed more filament to the head, sounds like the little wheel pushing the filament is grinding against it and slipping. Is this common? Maybe due to shit filament?

>>1160198
180 seems low... @200 +/-5 is usually where most PLAs want to be. Maybe some supplemental cooling? Try pointing another fan at the printer while it's running.

>>1160198
Extruder grinding probably isn't the filament. Probably isn't temperature either (low temp could cause the head to cool off and slow down the plastic flow). Could be a weak spring not letting the drive gear engage properly, could be your nozzle being too close to the bed (grinding would go away when the z moves up).

>>1160206
180 is very okay for small prints unless there are thin parts. It will extrude way lower than that but the adhesion will be pretty weak.

>>1160198
By laying it down you almost doubled the area you're printing, allowing way more cooling. That's why it's better now, but this way you'll lose definition compared to the x y, unless you print with very small layer height.

>>1160198
It started making the clicking noise when I changed the wall thickness from 1mm to 1.5mm, could that be it?

>>1160209
It keeps clicking all the way through the print

>>1160211
Laying it down worked much better, this my my first completed print.

The supports are a right bitch to get off though, I guess that's the problem with printing tiny

>>1160213
I should also mention it clicks when I'm just extruding when the head is in the air, so I don't think it's anything to do with the ned level.

>>1160218
Yeah, you can change offset/distance/fill but on small prints support is always a bitch.

>>1160213
Wall thickness is just how many lines are laid down, doesn't matter for the extruder.
A vid of the problem might, but I have no idea what your problem is.
If it's eating the filament you most likely won't hear it.
Are the tension springs that push filament on bolt/gear okay?
Are you sure the sound actually comes from the extruder and it's not just your coil wound too tightly/can't spin?

>>1158969
Ohhhh. Headed there too. Fuck yeah mang. Ima build a giant vacumnn chamber. Any advice for vacumn besides 10 car ac ones? Would a few big shop cacs suck enough?

>>1159198
U considered using 2 part castable plastic? I casted shit from plaster molds

>>1159349
Neat

>>1159504
Yeah, i cant create shit. But i can copy it. Anyone know a clay sculpting artist?

>>1160218
A for effort my man but this is funny i think

>>1160237
The sound is the extruder gear grinding against the filament, as if it's trying to shove more in that the head can accommodate maybe.

>>1160245
I love it.

>>1160280
Then print at slower speed and see if it still happens.

>>1160218
I'll add this to the creepy shelf.
What scale did you use to print it? Assuming I had the same source, I used 0.15, sliced with cura, no support or platform adhesion, 0.2 layer height on a 0.5mm nozzle.

Is this normal for slic3r infill?

>>1160345
Alternating one line and the other?
You can change that in the infill options if I recall correctly.

>>1160347
This is what im going with.

Maybe i should try the option combine infill every 0 layer?

>>1160348
nop, I don't think it's that. Combine infill is "print it only X layers and have bigger extrusion" I think, you can't select 0.
I can't see it in the photo but I suppose your infill is 1layer in a direction, then 1 layer rotated 90degrees.
I think there is an option for this, but I don't recall where.
by the way just change it and see what happens by checking the platform and selecting "preview" then sliding up and down and see if the patterns alternate.

I'll see if I can find that option again.

>>1160351
Well, I can't find the option so maybe I'm wrong and it can't be changed.

>>1160351
Ill finish this print, it doesnt matter if the infill is weak in this part. Ill try out different settings. I can recall having solid walled infills before, not sure what i fucked up.

>>1160355
Ill try different patterns, but the rest of them seems like too much tradeoff. Too weak or resonance inducing.

؜>>1160345
Looks like overextrusion plus a very high layer height.
Can you share your settings so we can help you?

I don't think I said this yet because I forgot but to the anon that said that I should get a brass brush to clean the print nozzle from a few threads back, thank you. That has solved so many problems with the first layers of my prints

>>1160433
What makes it look like its overextruding?
Layer height is .3 and i dont need smaller than that for this part.

My only problem was the infill and it turned out to be normal for the settings.

>>1160477
>What makes it look like its overextruding?
The part at the very right, it seems too much sloppy

>Layer height is .3 and i dont need smaller than that for this part.
It's fine whatever floats your boat, but I suggest to half the layer height or else you'll have layer separation issues because looks like there's not much adhesion between each layer.
Same goes for the infill, it's like you printed the infill and two layers after printing the next infill grid, although your settings seems ok

Why the shit is cura default material size 2.85????

I thought 1.75 is the standard.

>>1160541

Cause that's what the Ultimakers use

>>1160556
Fair enough.

In cura, the print mm/s, is that referring to how much filament it tries to squash through?

If so I think I have discovered the reason for my clicking noise.

I wonder how many things it is possible to get wrong.

>>1160560
Not directly.
It's the speed of the extruded filament (and consequently the speed of the printing head), you can only calculate the filament input speed.

You can change how much filament it pushes through with the flow multiplier, but you generally don't need to.

If there was a problem with how much you were trying to extrude cura would make the field red and say "yo nigga you're tryina to push dis big phat plastic rod thru dat tiny hole, that ain't gonna work!", just try it by setting a higher speed.

>>1160568
So if the print speed were too high the extruder wouldn't be trying to feed in too much filament? Or would it?

I was messing with the chinglish random symbols on the machine when printing and got varying results. I think I have been setting things way too fast.

Whenever my extruder is heated it seems to be oozing precum. Is this normal?

>>1160593
Upon closer inspection the grinding is when the extruder gear does some weird in-out-in-out thing with the filament, any reason?

holy shit someone help
I've been trying to fix this problem for the last 3 hours
Whenever I go to print with PLA on PEI the first layer is not sticking.
When the first perimeter line is put down it's like the print head drags it across without sticking it, same with the actual print when that starts.
I've cleaned it, upped the temp on the bed to 70C (I know this is too high but nothing else works)

any ideas?

>>1160623
1160623<<
>in-out-in-out thing
that's retraction
you could try and decrease the retract speed little by little (5mm/s at a time)
iirc, i have my retaction at 40 mm/s and 9mm

also, it could be a bad power supply
malyan 200s and select minis (if you're the same anon) dont usually come with great power supplies, so consider replacing it

>>1160433
>1160345<<
wtf is going on

>>1160238
>giant vacuum chamber
Honestly when I made pic related I was a poor college student. It's a pressure chamber, not a vacuum chamber, but it worked well enough for the cast you see.

>>1160712
טיפש גוי

>>1160711
Thanks very much, that seems to have solved my problem somewhat, before it was trying to pull all the way out and smash it in deep with big hard thrusts, now it's doing it shallow and slowly and making much less noise.


I still have a big issue of precum. When the nozzle is heated the filament starts oozing out and curling about and fucking the raft up. I tried pre heating it and letting the precum dribble out and then printing, but then the first layer or the raft gets no filament, as if letting it dribble out emptied the reservoir.

>>1160339
I think it must have been the same or similar scale to yours, maybe 15%.

I was just using it as a test because I was too stupid to understand how much better tiny cubes are to test it.

What the fuck am I looking at here? Shouldn't there me some kind of metal heat sink or something? Also the hot bit is jammed in with some washers to make it a tight fit.

It stopped extruding during a print, no filament will go through even when doing the extruder manually.

I'm guessing if I unscrew the bottom heater looking bit I might be able to pull out the filament? Hopefully I won't break everything.

>>1160797
Cleaned out the hot end with some steel wire, the filament is still jammed in the beige tube just above it. I'm not sure how to go about getting it out of the tube as it needs to be screwed in to heat the filament, I suppose I could heat the hot end and push the tube against the nozzle on the hot end, it might melt the filament? I remember seeing a reference to drilling it out but I think that will end up badly. What is even the point of the tube here?

>>1160797
Enjoy your first jam.
Press blue button down and remove the tube, do NOT break the filament.
Now there are two ways:
1) remove the fan, remove the hot end from the carriage (looks like it will just slide out removing those washers), let it all heat up and pray that the filament will go through.
2)remove like option1 but also remove heating element and temp sensor, then throw into boiling water to soften an try to take it out.

Look up your specific machine for more detailed guide.

What generally happens is that the melt puddle goes up in the hot end and reaches the border with the cold end, then cools down and gets stuck.
Generally means you're trying to print too sonicfast.

>>1160634
First layer height too tall.
Or wrong head-bed distance on zero.

>>1160807
Don't clean it. You don't need it and you'll end up wearing out the tiny little hole before its time.
If you messed something up and it's filled with black shit, let it heat up and wipe it away with some kitchen paper towel.

>>1160797
Oh, since that looks ceramic pay attention when trying to unscrew it especially if cold, if the jam is up there you might break it.
(good chance to get an e3d one for 10 bucks in china)

Anyone have experience with this or similar coatings?

https://www.smooth-on.com/news/xtc-3d-brush-3d-print-coating/

>>1160852
Looks like epoxy, why would you need a brand name one?
Unless it's very close in price to epoxy resins, I wouldn't bother.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g0TGL6Cb2KY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GSKxycs3kPg

>>1160811
The block in the hot end was just a tony bit of plastic, seems the main jam is in the beige plastic tube. No black at all, just the plastic in there, some polystyrene might have made its way in with the filament.

Is the cold pull method a possibility?

>>1160852
Tested had a review of the stuff a while back:
http://www.tested.com/tech/3d-printing/504035-show-and-tell-smooth-s-3d-print-coating/
Seems to work well enough, but like >>1160864 points out, a little dubious unless you have cash burning a hole in your pocket.

>>1160896
Sorry, but I have no idea how your hot end is assembled.
I'm fairly positive that "cold pull" will not work, it never worked on my jheads.
As I said in some other post, probably there's a forum for your specific machine where you can find more detailed information about the hotend assembly.

Also, I don't get it, did you stick metal wire INSIDE the hot end from the (removed) nozzle?
That's the hot part of the hot end, things don't jam there because as soon as you heat it up the plastic will melt again, I thought you cleaned the outside that's why I told you just to wipe it!
The probleim is in the cold part (the beige tube which I thought was ceramic), because that's where generally there shouldn't be anything molten.

Again, I think your best bet is heating it up to working temperature, and unscrew the plastic part, then once you have that out find a way to clean it (either by boiling it or whatever).

>>1159606
Isn't that a bit high for PETG?

I have literally printed PETG at 210 with the bed at 80 and it is hard as hell.

I twas innofil3d EPR PET tho

>>1160924
>hard as hell.
I mean strong.

It is actually pretty easy to print.

>>1160908
>>1160864
I thought it had some magic sauce in it, but you are right. Ill get simple epoxy then.

Heated the head to max and yanked this out. What is causing my extruder gear (bowden) to chew it up this bad? I'm sure this is related to the grinding noise it makes when printing, it is trying to force more filament in when it can't go any deeper and the gear is grinding/clicking against it.

I got some steel wire up through the nozzle all the way past where the blockage was and it didn't seem to hit any obstacles, im cooling the head now and will try and see if it will still go through. A bit worried to try printing again without working out what is causing the grinding. I can make a video if people think it would be useful.

>>1161002
All seems to be sorted, it pooped out two blobs like this and is now happily printing away, the grinding noise has even gone away, could that have been a warning sign a jam was about to develop?

>>1161002
>why is it chewed?
tension on the spring too high maybe?

>was the grinding a sign of this?
Maybe you got a first light jam which was impeding the wire to go through properly, having higher resistance it was harder to push in and sometimes the gear jumped.

The reason for this is generally trying to print too fast, or a bad cooling of the part inbetween the hot and cold part of the hotend. Given that you bought the machine and not made it yourself, I suppose it's the first.

You said your speed is 60mm/s, what's the size of the nozzle?

>>1161022
I have lowered it to 30-40 now, it is a .4mm nozzle. I believe it was running slowly when it jammed, but your suggestion of a partial block makes sense as I think I was running it way too fast at the start for a little while.

>>1161029
Maybe then it's a little too fast.
I used to print at 70 with my older jhead (plastic, uncooled), but it was 0.5mm and still jammed sometimes.

By the way I just noticed something.
When you said
>It is the mp mini select clone so it does have a little fan right on the print head
is the fan you're referring to the one in this pic? >>1160797

If yes, that shit isn't for cooling the part!
That's for cooling the hothead to prevent jamming.

The fan to cool the part must point at the nozzle.
Print a shroud as fast as you can because your printing quality with PLA is gonna increase drastically.
Just google cooling fan reprap to see what I'm talking about.

Also, that black fan should be always on. If it's wired to the fan output of the controller, consider rewiring it.
Was it by any chance off when you experienced the jam?

>>1161046
I'll have to correct myself.
After looking at some pics, looks like it should have a shroud of some sort, so it is indeed for cooling the part too.
Still, that's flawed in some ways.
First, it looks way too fucking small given that most of the air will be redirected to the upper part.
Second, if you turn off the fan there will be no cooling on the hot end, which will lead to jams.
Third, it's damn close to the hot end, meaning it will heat up and the air will be heated up and be even less effective.

I still suggest you to upgrade it, since it's basically a free upgrade.

>>1161052
Yeah, there is a vent bit that directs the air to the part being printed and inside to the beige tube, the fan is always running when it's printing, is it a good idea to let everything cool way down before turning the machine off? It is only off in the pic because the machine is off.

Everyone suggests the E3D head, is it basically lego connectors? I see people have made adapters to print so the head itself might not fit everything, but the cables are all universal pretty much, right?


Does anyone know what the brown blob in >>1161011 is? Could this tell me why it jammed? Too much dirt? Are those little snap on the filament sponge cleaner things worth it?

>>1161053
>do I need to let it cool down before turning off?
doesn't really matter, even if you were to suddenly shut it off everything would cool down no problem. Just don't turn off the fan while printing if you don't want jamming.

>e3d head
nothing is ever lego tier easy.
The ptfe tube of the bowden will fit inside (provided you order the right one), but your head has connectors for the heater and thermistor, while the new extruder will most likely come with just wires. So you will need to find some connectors or remove them.
Also, e3d has fancy minifan+shroud, so you'll have to find a way to attach that to the 12v.
On the bright side, that means you can use the fan you have as a proper cooling fan for the piece.
As for the holder adapter, that's the easiest part and you can get one probably straight out thingyverse. You might need to print it using ABS though, given how close it is to the head, but I'm not sure.

I suggest you to familiarize a little with this head and discover all the pain that it will bring you, then switch for the e3d when you know a little better what you're doing, but the upgrade will be surely worth it albeit needing a little bit of understanding.
Also since you said it's new probably is still warranty, I don't think you want to void it?


>that blob
where did you say it came from? draw a diagram or something.
Looks fairly normal to me, it's burnt plastic.
I never heard of those sponges you're talking about but they're most surely useless, because I live in dust kingdom and in 6kg of prints I've never ever seen dust in my hot end.

>>1161078

>>1161099
Then all is fine. Probably residue from heating up to clear jam.

Prints looking way better now.

>>1160924
>I have literally printed PETG at 210 with the bed at 80 and it is hard as hell.
Really? 210?
I read somewhere that the recommended range is withing 230 and 260
210 seems too cold

>>1160714
Nice. Well i am far from rich but got pipeline bros and some jobs let them take home pipe under 5 feet long. The built some bigass smokers. If i cap the ends off my fat ass could crawl in one. And building it would be easy enough. Just getting that volume sucked down tho... almost need a vac truck or learn how shop vacs work and scale it to 480. Dunno. Its pretty far down the list for now tho.

>>1161375

It's cold but i've printed fine at 210 too.

>>1157963
Hey, /3dpg/. I don't know shit about 3D Printing, but I've got dosh burning a hole in my pocket and I'm looking at one of these. Any feedback on it? Good for the price? Better to get a kit and self assemble it?

>>1161486
>forgetting the pic

>>1161488
I bought the cheap clone >>1160797

The only slight downside so far seems to be the slightly funky extruder, cost me £180, not sure how much the mp select mini is going for, they are a real pain in the ass to get a hold of outside america.

I haven't got a clue what i'm doing and managed to get >>1161130 on day 2. Up to day 3 now and am printing a larger mew.


On a related note. How the hell do I stop everything bowing up at the edges and popping off the build plate? Mew is going to have a curvy booty.

>>1161486
Self assemble; build a prusa clone. They're well documented, it's not hard as long as you're willing to research, and I think it's a better way to educate yourself as to how everything works together anyway.

>>1161428
AFAIK people get reasonably good results with a venturi setup(?), if they're telling the truth. the tl;dr is you use water as a vacuum because of some kind of physics fuckery where the water pulls air out with it. I don't know how low it gets, though.

Since they're pretty damn big tubes, maybe you could get a thick disk of material and make a gigantic piston? Put a bunch of gaskets on the edge and sand the inside to make it flat, and it might work. Maybe.

>>1161491
>bowing up at the edges and popping off the build plate
proper bed temp
perhaps a thicker/wider 1st layer
glue stick or hairspray applied to the bed if you arent already doing so

>>1161491
>How the hell do I stop everything bowing up at the edges and popping off the build plate? Mew is going to have a curvy booty.

Personally, I swear by DIMAFIX (3DLAC works just as well for PLA) but that's on a glass bed and it does sometimes stick a bit too well, requiring a trip to the freezer. The freezer trick also works well for extremely delicate items, like clock springs, which come off with zero stick after cooling.

Solidworks user here. I'm trying to inlay a floral pattern to a curved surface which, AFAIK, is basically impossible in SW. What software would be a good complement to SW to learn for creating more artistic stuff?

>>1161491
thanks, I'm gunna do it. My burger privileges grant me the MP for about $200 straight from amazon. I'm sure you'll see me again after 3-5 days standard shipping having a total meltdown when everything comes out like shit, I'm dripping with frustration, and I'm at my wits end.

>>1161718
Might I suggest Marvin for checking everything's chooching:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:215703

With less than a metre of filament and, depending on layer height, in under an hour, you can get a good idea of potential points of failure and, after a couple more prints, have a pretty good idea of what the correct settings are for your slicer/material.

>>1161717
Blender

>>1161730
Thanks.

Is a heated enclosure necessary for printing high-temp plastics like Ultem? Figured I'd ask before dropping $120 on a spool.

>>1161738
The heated enclosure is necessary if the material contracts significantly during cooling, not if it needs to be printed at a high temperature. Find the expansion coefficient, if it's anything like ABS then you do need a heated enclosure.

>>1161743
The CTE for Ultem 1000 is about half of ABS. Is this enough to need an enclosure? I'm going to be printing large parts.

My tension arm is putting too much pressure on my filament and that is causing it to skip. If I stand there and put slight pressure on the tension arm it prints fine, when it starts skipping the filament gets really stringy and thin. I have been looking at the assembly for a long fucking time now and I can see no way at all to reduce the tension, I have put a little plastic clamp that comes with epoxy on the arm and it has sorted all the clicking and grinding issues. Any suggestions on how to lower the tension that's less ghetto? I suppose I could try printing some kind of brace to fit on the arm and not be as jank.

I tried printing the big mess at .3 layer height, slowpoke at .2something. I'm going to keep reducing the layer height and see how that changes the print.

>>1161752

Don't talk to me or my wife's disabled son ever again

>>1161744
I looked up the printing guide. Based on the CTE alone, I'd say it shouldn't but, since the print guide recommends not using a cooling fan and annealing after printing I'd say you almost certainly do require a heated enclosure.

>>1161752
If you're feeling brave, you could clip the spring. For a reversible bodge, you could tie together some of the coils with a fine aramid filament or steel wire.

>>1160186
You need to level the bed. You can get a mini bubble level from horror fright tools for a buck or two. The desk that i have it on isn't perfectly level for example. So I have to level the bed of my IIIp printer to incline of the desk in order to print propperly.

Your bed should be lined with painters tape, sucks but cheap. I also hair spray so the hot filament sticks better.

>>1161779
I have steel wire, that sounds like a good idea, thanks.

[need to buy SLA printer intensifies]

To the chap who suggested Blender earlier, am I just stuck in my ways or is the interface a complete horror show? I've never felt so utterly alienated with a GUI before.

>>1161782
Not him but that sounds all kinds of horrible to get right. What's wrong with running some G code that brings the Z axis to its upper stop point, disabling the X and Y servos and sliding the head around, adjusting the bed until a piece of paper just rubs against the nozzle at all points?

>>1161801
>>1159124
Speaking of SLA, whatever happened to that cheap SLA printer that Monoprice was supposedly supposed to release in March? Did it flop, or was it a success, or did it just never get mentioned again?

>>1161801
You will get used to blender over time. The best I can suggest is learn the hotkeys and the Spacebar is your friend when you can't remember a command. I had a better image but can't find it at the moment.

>>1161805
Thanks for the infographic, I'll give it another try. To be honest, I produced that mesh in C4D because I used it 13 years ago and it's surprisingly similar (it was still a kludge to bake in the displacement).

>whatever happened to that cheap SLA printer that Monoprice was supposedly supposed to release in March
They had issues with the screen in the small one and the galvos in the large one. SLA is hard.

>>1161805
Ah, here is my favorite, disgustingly large but very useful hotkey reference.

>print ripped off bed at last moment
>redo it all
>looks worse than the failed print

>>1161900
At least it's printing now eh? Time to do someting about your x/y irregularities.

>>1161909
I'm delighted with how well it works, for so little money and with next to no brainpower It is making decent things. I'm printing a clamp to put on the extruder tension arm, it will be my first functional object. Is it worth using a lubricator for the filament?

>>1161900
What printer and bed material?

>>1161926
Uuuuuh

Don't ask

>>1161938
To be fair, if you're going to fix paper to the bed with single-sided tape, parcel tape is about the best you can do but it still made me titter.

How would I go about fixing this file?
I'm using slic3r
this is the first time I've encountered something like this

>>1161952
It looks utterly buggered but your best bet is probably netfabb, just download the trial, it will revert to the free version (still able to perform basic repairs and format conversion) after a few days.

>>1161921
Those are mostly supposed to help with dust; I haven't been printing especially long (@ 4 months), but I haven't seen the need.
>>1161938
Huh... I'm not sure if that's good or bad. Just using masking tape might improfe your prints a bit; if your paper shifts a bit, your layer shifts with it.

>>1161953
It worked!
thanks!
I'm doing that desktop planting project from thingaverse.

>>1161952
>>1161955
To avoid issues like this in the future make sure you Make Normals Consistent on your meshes, might help.

So guys, how screwed am I? I finally went ahead and did a 10 hour render and was ready for compositing - I figured I'd get around to it on the weekend and closed Blender. I'm greeted with this screen on reopening it.

Is there a way to re-open a rendered image, or am I completely boned and I need to redo the render again?

>>1161970
have you looked for the file in the output directory? i think it defaults to C:\tmp on windows but you can look it up in the render tab under output

>>1161970
output... directory...?

I always hit F3 to save my renders.

I messed up, didn't I?

Has anyone printed a vagina to the cervix?

>>1161987
I made a big horse dick in sculptris.

Where can I find more dicks?

Running Marlin on a Prusa i3 mod, arduino connected to RAMPS

My Problem:
the firmware reads only one temperature for both bed and hotend.

So when I heat the hotend to 200° the bed shows the same temperature but it is still cold, so over 150° it shuts down because the bed exceeded temp.

If I switch the connections and heat the hotend it applies the bed temperature to both and the hotend keeps heating forever, almost burned my printer to ashes.

I'm sure the thermistors are fine, also polarity is not a problem with those pins and the board has no damage, so I'm guessing a firmware problem.

does anyone know what it might be?

>>1161808
do they work the same on mac?

>>1161970
>>1161977
I'm an idiot, this is the 3D printing general, not /3/

>>1161989
Approximately 3.75 billion can be found spread across the earth

>>1161998
Try putting Repetier on it, see if it persists. Also check the resistance between the two thermistors when everything is hooked up, if there's a short. It sounds like the RAMPS board might have a problem.

Why should I upgrade to a noctula fan
Someone convince me to get one

>>1162114
I think repetier is also reporting said error, I will check asap

what should the resistance be? how could I diagnose a broken RAMPS board`?

thanks!

>>1161753
This works nicely, gives me actual control over the tension rather than being off or on.

This works nicely, gives me actual control over the tension rather than being off or on.

My first 'functional' print, the screw was a right bitch to thread first time, once the threads were ground down a bit it works fine.

>>1162189
I was thinking I could reprint the tension arm and instead of having a bump ion the plastic to retain the spring I could drill through and insert a screw in there, that way I could adjust that screw to change the pressure on the spring. Will printing something at .1 layer height rather than .2 do much for layer adhesion? I would worry that drilling through it would weaken it too much.

Do these settings look reasonable? Nothing that makes you want to cry?

>>1162193
Unless it absolutely won't fit, put a chamfer on that pin.

>>1162193
If you're going to drill something out, it might be best to punch a vaguely correct sized hole and then just up the amount of walls you're using when you print. Easier to center the hole and you don't have to think about weakness of material.

>>1162213
>Punch a hole in the design

>>1162193
I'm guessing from the fact you said £30 earlier that you're in Britain. Do you want me to run that off in nylon? I'm assuming my stock isn't full of moisture by now, I put it away months ago in a bag with desiccant but it might not have been enough.

>>1162215
*for free

>>1162215
Thanks for the kind offer, I am a massive faggot and love pink though. Im mostly just printing random shit I think might be useful to get a better feel of the printer, I'm printing the arm now.

>>1162213
>>1162214
I'll punch a hole in your butt.

What is the best program for making basic edits to models? I have messed with 3dsmax for a while simplifying game models but it seems a bit overkill for sticking a hole in something.

>>1162232
No problem, enjoy.

>>1162215
>britain
it's england

they don't have internet in wales or scotland, in ireland they use potatoes as currency

>>1162193
That pin will break.

>>1161805
They said april, not march and cheap is overstating it, its still gonna be a couple k and itll be released along side the new maker mini and the $150 delta printer.

>>1162271
Yeah, I'm watching it print and it doesn't look very strong at all. I'm sure I could snap it off and put a nail or screw in there instead.

>>1162274
Seriously, just get a few springs from ebay and cut them down to different lengths. If the piece snaps while you're printing you're going to spend a lot longer cleaning baked PLA out of your hot end and almost certainly need a new nozzle and PTFE liner.

>>1162274
>>1162281
Or buy this:
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3D-Printer-Makerbot-MK8-1-75mm-Filament-all-Metal-Bowden-Extruder-Wire-feeder-/122413447392

>>1162281
>>1162282
Chill brah

if it snaps while printing I can just feed it through with my hand

It seems to work pretty well with the clamp I printed, I might never even bother, But I'll have a spare arm should the original break

I'm just experimenting and shitposting as I go

>>1162284
>if it snaps while printing I can just feed it through with my hand

>>1162136
Resistance should be high, ground will be around zero but the reading pins(2nd and 4th in that line) should have 5k-ish or more

>>1162538
I laughed more than I should have.

Are there any settings in slic3r to define the minimal amount of extruded lengths?

I want to get rid of the tiny extrudes that are pretty much useless

>>1160770

Precum can be solved by turning the heat down on the extruder a bit, but will always be a slight issue when mixing plastic and heat

Whenever I print, I do a 2 or 3 perimiter skirt first, which gives the plastic a chance to start flowing properly before starting on the real part

>>1162833
I always print with a big raft to give it a change to get going, my issue is the bit of precum goes hard and then it's a big strand sticking up that catches on the nozzle and fan ripping off the raft before it gets a chance to form. At the moment I stand there with some tweezers removing the extra as it drips, then when it goes to print the raft I need to quickly reach over to the extruder and jam in the filament a bit more, otherwise there is not enough filament to start the raft and it gets all stringy and doesn't form.

>>1162843

Before a print starts I'll scoop of the goop just as the motors start moving

>>1161375
Yup, I literally chose the settings for PLA (on an ultimaker 2+) and manually increased the plate temp to 80.

Strong (maybe too strong), rigid and good adhesion.

Shit is wack yo

>>1161955
source?

>>1162193
>0.2188 mm

why

>>1162939
http://mpselectmini.com/optimal_layer
I don't even really know. think it's something to do with the motor steps.

>>1162976

Hi guys. I made some good stuff as a mmorpg. Join us and OBEY!
https://telegram.me/ChatWarsBot?start=ea2cc8c1dd17475bbea7597866ddc472

Managed to print the 5 gear bearing at 50% size and it (mostly) works. Is everyone on thingiverse comments a retard or do I have a magic printer?

>>1163435

Maybe their tolerance for "mostly" is lower than yours?

>>1163468
Put a bit of lube on it and wore it in for a while, works nice now

I'm 3D printing a case in PLA (has to be PLA) for an Arduino that I'll be putting onboard a drone, so I'd like it to be as moisture proof aa possible. What would be the best way of going about this without adding too much weight? Will a well-printed PLA case keep moisture out on its own?

the marlin code they gave me has numerous definitions of "TEMP_0_PIN" and "TEMP_BED_PIN"

what does this mean? do they interfere or are they being refered to by other archives? can I comment out all definitions but one?

I'm having problems with my temperature measurements, one temp goes up, other goes up as well. Pretty sure it's a firmware issue.

>>1162938
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1458903
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1453839

>>1163594
are you planning on flying it under water or something?
Usually 3 walls is good enough to be water tight

>>1163594

If you're really worried, give it a spray with acrylic clear coat - should fill any small gaps

>>1163594
On a related note; PLA is hydroscopic (it absorbs water). Does water give it any problems after printing? Will it discolor or distort?

>>1163956
To test that theory about PLA distorting under water, I put a clip under water for a month then tested it's strength and it was pretty much as good as a fresh clip

Do some tests yourself though, different brands will probably give different results

Why do you bother with this home 3D printing stuff? The pieces all look like total shit.

>>1163956
Most plastics are. PLA is among the least of them.

>>1163594
Look for spray on moisture sealants if it's that important.

What are some good resins available for the littleRP2? Or is the formlabs Form 2 necessary for half decent resins?

>>1164167
Because they come in very handy to build one off stuff to repair or replace small plastic things

I have paid a machine shop to build this printer.

>>1164232
This your design?

What are you making it out of?

>>1164272
tens of thousands dollars worth of linear stages

>>1164297
An FDM based design? Testing the upper limits of diminishing returns?

>>1164272
Forty pounds of precision aluminium tooling plate.

The printer has a 6x6x8" print volume and will weigh roughly eighty pounds if I'm doing the math right.

>>1164324
That's completely unnecessary... Why are you doing it?

>>1164326
No real reason, I purchased the linear stages on impulse and this seems like a fun project.

I'm kind of interested in seeing how it prints as well. Instant accelerations should eliminate a large number of common artifacts: stringing, ringing, and blobbing.

The motion quality is essentially at the limit of what is physically possible for a system of this mass and volume.

>>1164167
>Why do you bother with this home 3D printing stuff? The pieces all look like total shit.
Because we use it for more that printing figurines

Have you ever thought about the fact that some of us have unique problems or are in the business of prototyping objects for later mass production and/or licensing off to other companies and make bank?

Step 1: make improvement to object
Step 2: patent
Step 3: go to company that makes a lot of these objects and pitch your product to them
Step 4: license your product to them or even sell your patent
Step 5: Buy some houses and rent them out
Step 6: repeat and make more money

>>1164232
what are you planning on printing with it?

>>1164390
Ugly boats

i'm looking at buying a 3d printer for a 13 year old kid. i want to get something from amazon, but the prusa i3 is no longer provided on there.

any recommendations for something available from amazon?

i looked at the 3dhubs budget recommendations, but still curious for anon input.

>>1164390
Zero backlash reduction and bowl feeders are two applications where absolute accuracy beyond cosmetic requirements would be useful.

>>1164614
A 3D printer is not a toy.

>>1164614
Maker Select V2
Its just a metal boxed frame Prusa

>>1164916
Not that guy, and you're right they aren't toys, but 13 is a good age to learn to use real tools and computers.


>>1164614
I'd personally avoid buying one straight away - get the kid learning CAD/modelling, and using others/school/library printers to print on.

If the bug is still there after a few months, then consider buying a printer

>>1164916
And yet at the same time that's exactly all it is!
Strange.

>>1164990

3d Printers are Man-toys, like drones. Yeah you can give them to your kid but they're expensive you better be prepared for them breaking eventually.

>>1165001
Ha yeah that's closer.

Don't lump all kids in the same boat, some kids are building these things from old printers and shit at that age.
I guess the trick is if they don't work for it they don't appreciate it.

>>1164197
No one's tried DLP/SLA printing? I guess it's pretty uncommon

>>1157963
Can we make a 'tier list' or master list of good filament?

I hear Push Plastic, Hatchbox and Octave are bretty gud.
I think I heard Monoprice filaments are good, but I don't hear them discussed too much.


Personally, I've tried Makerbot (ABS) and it is decent, especially if you can get it on sale.
And then there's Inland (ABS). I'd say it's budget tier.


>pic unrelated

Do any of you put heat-sinks or fans on your stepper motors?
I noticed that they get pretty hot

>>1165262
Technically the motors are safe until ~125c at which point the rotor may demagnetize.

If you are running the stepper motors at their intended current and voltage they should get hot at ambient temperature, but not so hot that they burn skin.

If you are running at excessive voltages or within a heated enclosure additional cooling may be required.

>>1165328
They aren't past 80C because they feel like the air coming out of my laptop when I'm encoding something to HEVC
I didn't know that they are built to last up to 125C so that's good to know

>>1165136
I found out a friend of a friend sells filament, so I got the hookup and now have 100kg of filament.

I'm going to drown in it.

>>1165342
Keep in mind there can be a fair difference inside to outside. Outside temp 90C usually means inside temp 130C.

This is why you're better to buy strong motors like 60Ncm or more and run them at less than their max rated current.

Have any of you guys had experience with the CR-10 Printer that's on gearbest?

I've checked some reviews and they say it's good, but they all were given it by gearbest, so not sure I can trust their reviews.

>>1165560
With that minimal frame and just a single Z motor it doesn't look very good. Of course, you could get the kit and just fix it up, but at that point you might as well build one from scratch.

First print, monoprice mini select, default bed, and no firmware updates. Pretty happy, all told. First mission from here is to print a bunch of replacement parts (starting with a new knob- fuck that thing).

Why does this line happen? Ignore the blob.
Its PLA, 217C, no bed, part fan on, 0.2mm layer

Feels like it has something to do with the deck.

>>1165791
It helps to print on a bed and not print on air

>>1165791
217 seems hot. You try like 205?

>>1165136
I heard Toner Plastics brand filament is the same thing as Makerbot (same factory).

Something to consider.

>>1165791
Looks like over-extrusion and too high of a temp

>>1165912
>>1165920
Didnt help

>>1166126
You might be right but it doesnt explain the dent in the ship

Here is the most recent test assembly. I've put everything together before, but I've been shuffling the config and cables around because multiple extruders, relays, and external axis drives eat a lot of pins.

I expect to receive the frame soon but the project still has a long way to go. Once I confirm the frame and linear stages fit correctly I'll need to order the sheet metal which will probably have a 3-4 week leadtime.

I also need some miscellaneous connectors and heatshrink from China but customs has started delaying packages for 4+ months because they've been shipping us fentanyl.

The mess of wires from the extruder assembly will be replaced with lengths of continuous flex 24/4 and 20/4 cable since I managed to dig up some Igus Chainflex from a previous project.

Looking to make some extra money on the side.
Would it be a bad idea to sell video game props on ebay? Or would I have to worry about copyright issues? Anyone have any experience with Esty (same question)?

I feel like I would be able to sell AAA game props fairly easy with moderate work put into each prop.

>>1166126
>>1166396
Who's the manufacturer of the PLA you used? Could be low quality and have dimensional irregularities, causing random over-extrusions and under-extrusions.

>>1166434

In my experience, if you're just making a small runs and selling just on evay and etsy, then you'll be under the radar of the majority of companies.

t. Sold around 30 Triforce statues on etsy and not a sniff from ninty's lawyers

>>1166520
>Sold around 30 Triforce statues
Now you got me thinking
How much did you sell them for and did you paint them? What plastic?

What's the trick go keeping PETG from stringing?
I've got my retraction set to 2mm and it's still doing it
My temp is 250

>>1166710
Cooling

Try faster retractions too

>>1166541

PLA, spray painted gold with auto paint, sold for about £10 each. Zelda fans will pay for any old shite on etsy, might have got away selling for £15. They fot inside a 10cm square box

I'm not up on 3d printing, but I'm going to be looking at options for a couple small part runs soon. Impact resistance is my biggest concern. Do fine layers provide much of a weak point, or it is basically the same strength as typical injection molding? And what's my best option on materials? I know power tools are typically PA-6 GF-30, which is durable as fuck.

I'll also have another part where wear resistance will be key. Thoughts on that?

>>1166434
You'll get a cease and desist notice first. Just be smart and you should be fine. Don't do 500 different listings, or list thousands of stock, and don't claim to be official(on the other hand, blatantly saying NOT OFFICIAL MERCHANDISE might get you noticed too). Word your posts carefully, and avoid the more litigious stuff(No Mario).

>>1167052
Depends on the part. FDM ABS can be an option but I'd recommend SLS or SLA.


https://formlabs.com/materials/engineering/

God is it me or is most of the "big" 3d printing guys on youtube slowly loosing their touch

Tom is becoming a sassy cunt during his live streams

3d printing nerd is becoming more of a giant shill and such low effort content

3d maker noob still fails to grasp some basic concepts

angus is becoming a bigger shill

>>1167540

I avoide youtubers. If people cant put what they want to say across in comprehensible text (with pictures/diagrams if necessary), then I assume they have nothing of value to contribute.

Plus, I can read in my downtime at work, but can't get away with watching videos

>>1167540
>Tom is becoming a sassy cunt during his live streams
Can you give an example? I didn't have time to watch them all, but I tune in here and there and I haven't noticed anything like that.

>3d printing nerd is becoming more of a giant shill and such low effort content
I didn't notice much shilling (at least not more than usual), but I noticed lower quality videos. he is making much more videos per week compared to half a year ago, therefore they are lower quality. I don't care if there is less B rolls, no 4k and all that crap, but hey are less informative, too long and kind of shallow content.

>angus is becoming a bigger shill
He has to. it is his full time job. But it is not that bad. It was only simplfy3d and now is that SLA printer.

>>1167693
>tom
With tom if you hang around and watch the big live streams, you'll notice how triggered he gets over any mention of something other then what he current works on

Gone from, answering the question, to someone in chat will answer it, to him getting sassy saying he already talked about it, to just banning people in chat and getting flustered over it

>angus
On the flip side Tom is doing it full time (if memory is correct) only company I heard him shill for is e3d, granted its a shill but e3d kinda earned the shill from pretty much the entire 3d printing community

>nerd
he is slowing starting to shill for the new printers he reviews started to notice it with the raise3d
really disappoints me that some of these higher end/ close to being prosumer machines going to someone who does so little information

Mini v2 official launched

www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=107&cp_id=10724&cs_id=1072403&p_id=21711&seq=1&format=2

>>1167812
they have some info on that page of their delta, too
link doesnt seem to work yet, though

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=21666

MP Mini Delta
3D Printer
Heated Build Plate
Build Area o4.3" x 4.7"
(o110 x 120 mm)
Resolution 50 microns (0.05mm)
Filament Diameter 1.75mm
Printing Speed 150mm/sec
Max. Extruder Temp. 500°F (260°C)
Connectivity Wi-Fi®, microSD™ card, USB
Compatible Software Cura (recommended),
Repetier-Host, ReplicatorG,
Simplify 3D
Printable Materials ABS & PLA

Has anyone else been having trouble with a Prusa i3 power supply overheating?

Mine just started making the hot electrical smell yesterday. As a temporary work around, I remounted it to the frame with some metal spacers to create an air gap, and have set up a small desk fan angled to circulate the air both through and behind the unit.

Did three smaller test prints today and the power supply case didn't get above room temperature, where previously it was quite hot to the touch.

I might have to go scrounge a 90mm cooling fan out of an old pc tower and see if I can rig something up as a more permanent solution.

Are there any materials that would stand up to the task of making a mini PC case?

>>1168028
Take a look into ABS, PETG, Nylon, Polycarb, ASA

Can someone fill me in on what I am doing wrong with the first layers?

>>1168050
pop it off and show us the underside
What does it do when its laying the first layer?

>>1168050
How far off the deck are you starting? too much nozzle/bed gap is what my gut tells me; first couple of layers are floating around in the breeze until everything firms up, then the plastic has something to stick to. Also, is that wargaming terrain?

>>1168050
I can tell you right now from the top layers you got overextrusion going on, but I need higher quality pictures of the bottom to see what's going on down there

My company bought this P.O.S from 3D PLATFORM. Has not made one successful part, their support is garbage, 1/2 the machine can be bought online, we complain and they only want us to upgrade to another piece of shit that supposedly has the fastest extruders on the market with no benchmarks etc.does anyone have experience in the large format 3d printing/rapid prototyping? that can advise?

>>1168169
Depending on how large, can take a look at fusion3 f400, raise3d, gigabot, stacker 4, cosine additive

>>1168169
>Has not made one successful part
Post pics of failed parts, maybe even video of printing at the point of failure. Also what material and settings are you using (temperature, nozzle size, layer height,...).

BTW how much did it cost?

>>1160037
That would be a good tire for a self propelled push mower. Traction at its best.

>>1168169
What the fuck? Why is it mounted on a bench? The printer part ends at the metal platform

>>1168226
That skimpy shit is about $23k and they probably justify at least 3-4k of that with the stupid bench

>>1168226
>>1168230
What do you store in all those drawers on the control end? 1 gross of nozzles each drawer?

>>1168234
Going by his post those are probably garbage bins for the shit prints

>>1168169
Lol, this must be some badass filament. BRB, buying 10 spools

>>1168230
>$23k
Can you give your boss's number? I have some jewings to do.

>>1168239
I just googled the price, different anon

Hi anons,

3D printing Newbie here
I Have a few question:
I'm making my own 3D printer (prusa i3 clone), I don't have two left hands and I own some useful tool, so I should be okay
Electronic-wise, I'm garbage, but it looks like its not hard if you go for the arduino + RAMPS 1.4 setup, which really is all about plugin things in the right connector. I wanna make sure the firmware works, though. Do u know if a card like this one:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/KOOKYE-Engraver-Expansion-Stepper-Heatsink/dp/B019SXNJ0W/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1493314965&sr=8-4&keywords=kookye
Can replace the RAMPS 1.4? Is there something that will fuck up with the firmware or will the arduino handle it just fine?
Also, the prusa I3 uses arduino mega with ramps, and this one uses arduino uno. Will the uno do the work?
My objective is to build the cheapest useful 3D printer i can, even if it doesn't work like a charm, i wanna experiment

>>1168254
That thing is for CNCs, not 3D printers. For the sake of simplicity, especially because you're shit with electronics, get a MEGA and a RAMPS 1.4. You can get them for under $15 from eBay, plus 5 DRV8825 drivers from aliexpress for about $4.

>>1166399
finally someone using real components
are those 2 piezo stages?

and what brand is the big stage?

>>1168264
>real components
There is a very good reason for why nobody uses real components for 3D printers, it's because they offer either marginal or flat-out zero advantages

>>1168262
thanks anon

>>1168264
XY are linear servos and Z is an ATS125 ballscrew stage. The ATS stage is somewhat unusual as the screw is directly attached to the motor shaft and shares the bearings so there is no flexible coupler.

Printing at high accelerations should improve print quality.

>>1168196
dont really have a problem with printing per say, just an issue with the manufacturer(ing) since we've owned it, we've had to replace 3 extruders(one almost burning the machine up due to not insulating the hot end and shorting the heater to almost 500c) the filament empty switch plain and simply does not work after replacing with an "upgraded version" witch is a pain in the ass on long runs. The 1 meter glass bed is leveled with I shit you not, 6 set screws that need adjusting constantly from the ridiculous jerking of the machine. we need another option and I will look into the suggestions.

>>1168234
Shits nonsense because its a Chinese made bench. Cot damn power supply is ziptied in one of the drawers.

>>1168230
half of them don't/cant open

>>1168193
Thanks, were looking at Titan 3d also, they want something built in the US

>>1168336
Nothing wrong with zipties my man. Those nylon ties can last centuries of rough use

>>1168239
I would not suggest. Reviews are junk. big tires on a truck doesn't make it a 4x4

>>1168334
So, do you want to fix this machine or are you looking for a different machine?
Extruder (hot end) looks like E3D volcano (real or clone?) and it is weird that it would get shorted. They are pretty much the best you can buy for reprap/hobby printer.

How often did you actually use dual extruders? And how long does it take to print something like on your pic? And what do you print ? PLA?

For big printers I only know about BigRep, Delta wasp 3MT Builder extreme. If you want American made: Printrbot had some sort of experimental kit for big printer a while ago. They seem to be a cool company and they might make you a custom printer.

>want to stiffen up my Prusa i3 variant
>look into the RebeliX project
>think 30x30 alu profiles are the best bet
>shit would literally cost £50 for the lengths I need.

So begins my latest project .... can a Prusa Frame be printed?

Pic related is my proof of concept.

The aim is to print a bunch of profile lengths - of the Bosch Rexroth format and use cheap ali-express fasteners to bolt the entire thing together. - Might use a steel rod and pre-load the entire assembly.

May even put fasteners between lengths and experiment with embedded nuts etc.


Has anyone tried this before?

I'm actually a structural engineer - so this sort of shit has interesting applications beyond just printers and being cheap.

>>1168353
I can't see another way of printing it but the worst stresses are going to be across the layer lines and the flexural modulus for even the stiffest plastic is going to be a lot less than aluminium. The best you could use is probably a long chain carbon fibre PLA but that's going to cost more than aluminium so you're back to square one.

>>1168346
You got me wrong. The mega goy who purchased that piece of shit is going to buy just anything.

Just kidding. Buy a fortus 900mc or order your parts from a print service.

>>1168358
>worst stresses are going to be across the layer lines and the flexural modulus for even the stiffest plastic is going to be a lot less than aluminium

Preloading would basically solve all of this.

Take an oversized steel rod, run a thread for the last 25mm or so each side;

put it through the centre and lock some nuts onto each end.

Tighten

I'll preload with compression stress (not to the point of buckling the thing) and with a bit of fine tuning I'll be able to stop the generation of any tensile stress perpendicular to the layer lines.

Literally a microcosm of prestressed concrete.

Should increase the stiffness too. - although I'm not convinced that the stiffness of aluminium is entirely necessary - the problem with the i3 is that it relies on shitty nuts clamping down onto the laser cut frame. It's just a shitty design imo - way too wobbly.

>>1168380
At that point it'd probably be cheaper just to buy the extruded aluminum. Just sayin you might rethink your plastic prusa

>>1168385
no fun >_<

http://www.prusaprinters.org/update-multi-material-upgrade-2/

TL;DR custom made heatsink to make it so retracting the filament does turn into a huge blob, price increase in the multimaterial upgrade, they are getting a new warehouse

>>1168380
Something you didn't consider is creep and relaxation, which are phenomenon that occurs mostly in polymers. In your case it would be mostly relaxation, which would through time lower compression stress. I really don't know how fast would that happen for PLA/ABS.

Another thing is that hammer nuts are very small and has teeth, so it locally makes high stress and that could lead to layer separation.

I don't want to put you off, you definitely should try it (and then tell us about it), but if it fails this might be the reason.
And I don't really see a point on making it with Bosch profiles, I would go for full printer with attachments and holes at exactly the right places and inside connected with rods. Something like Mendel, but with large 3d printed parts all around and with steel rods hidden inside.

I have a Creality CR-10 in the mail. I want Simplify3D. I've hit my budget cap for now. Wat do?

>>1168985
The pirate bay

Ran out of filament 2/3 of the way through a print first time today, about to happen again in about 10 mins. Where can I buy like 20+M lengths of a bunch of colours? All I really see are big 1kg rolls.

I don't want my prints looking like ice creams.

>>1169039
If you don't want them to look like ice cream, but a couple big rolls and you won't run out mid print. You can find 1kg rolls for about $20 to $30 its not that expensive

>>1169042
>6 colours
>$120

>listen to you guys, stop taping down paper and use masking tape on bed
>waste so much fucking filament with things popping off the bed mid-print
>go back to paper
>everything sticks 110%

fuck, you lot sometimes talk a load of shit

>>1169114
Yeah i find that i have to relevel every time i print though.

That shit sticks like a mother fucker

>>1168882
Thanks for the tip.

Creep hadn't occured to me.

Whenever I think about creep, I think about long term over 50 years, but you're right. I should have a method of tensioning the assembly......

ta.da....

Pic related.

>And I don't really see a point on making it with Bosch profiles

Wider applications. I'm seeing if it would work generically - rather than for just this specific application.

5h to print 150mm of the stuff though.... so might take a while.

Very stiff, very strong.

Need some longer threaded rods I think.

I like this idea. Are you planning on having the eccentric-nut-tightened-wheels rolling in the grooves for the X and Y carriages like the Tevo Tarantula et al? If so, I can see stress fatigue on the lips of the "extrusion" causing tolerance issues over time.

>>1169211
>>1169222
Ah, just looked up the RebeliX. I see the linear bearing setups. Don't mind me!

>>1169211
Yeah, upon further inspection, I don't see you having much of a problem with this. With proper bracing, you should be fine. I would suggest a bowden extruder to to reduce the weight of the X-carriage and thus reducing ringing artifacts in a wobblier frame.

>>1169222
>>1169225
Yeah its literally a prusa i3 with a stiffer extruded frame. Nothing complicated just yet

But perhaps In the future i can modify my own design and reduce metal components in rep raps

>>1169228
Thanks for the tip.

I've started working on printing out the parts for
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:724999

has anyone else here made this yet?

I'm planning on turning it into a wood cnc machine

>>1157963
anyone have tried, hot glue to make copies of a 3d printer mold?

Does anyone have a push plastic coupon code?
I'm doing a filament run

I'm putting it together with socket cap since I have them on hand. I'll be buying stainless button heads for the final assembly.

>>1169511
God damn that is making me so hard right now

I need to make some space for better pictures, but the parts look pretty sharp.

>>1169511
>>1169617
Damn.

What's your budget for this ?

Are you machining the parts at home?

I have been trying to get my probe to work today, I have a RAMPS and the printer is a duplicator i3, it does the automatic calibration properly but after that it does not compensate properly, some parts go too low and some too high.

Help, I have tried everything.

>>1169092
And now you've got enough filament for the next few months, if not years.

>>1169676
Its more expensive than buying a regular printer, but not as bad as it looks. The aluminum plate was 150USD in material and the water-jetting was another $300. I had them run the parts at maximum quality on a tilting waterjet so it was probably twice as expensive as the usual finish as well.

Secondary operations are extremely expensive because someone actually needs to do them by hand. I had the machine shop do some of the harder holes and finished the parts myself.

I started this printer two years ago so in terms of dollars spent per hour of entertainment this project has been very cheap.

>>1170071
I haven't ordered the correct fasteners yet so this assembly is purely to test fits.

I printed the yellow spacers because the fasteners I had available were too long.

The final assembly will use stainless button heads in most places.

I've got a mighty large mosfet laying around
What needs it most?
The print bed or the nozzle?
I may pick up another one down the line

You crazy motherfucker, you actually did it, huh? Was my advice helpful, or did something else work better for you?