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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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1057386 No.1057386 [Reply] [Original]

I use pic related to cut steel pipe, the problem is that when i finish the cut, the surface is not straight.

now when i look down at the disk i can see it warping a little when i initiate the cut. which ends up in slope on the cut.

how can i fix this ?

>> No.1057388

Use thicker abrasives and let the saw do the work. Don't force it in.

>> No.1057391

>>1057386
use a bandsaw, chopsaw are garbage

>> No.1057392

>>1057386
If its just mildsteel stuff. I know guys who swear by high Tpi carbide toothed saws instead of abrasive

>> No.1057404

>>1057386
Welcome to the world of abrasive chop saws. Cut slightly to long and hand file.

Sorry mate.

Also get a premium wheel and don't push hard. Let the saw slowly bite in and once it's in there a bit press harder. Don't fight the metal.

>> No.1057414

Also make sure the saw reaches full response before cutting.

>> No.1057419

>>1057391
Incorrect. They have their purpose and work well doing it when in the hands of a competent operative.

I'd consider the cut of a TCT 'chop saw', as you call it(cut off saw is a more accurate description) than a bandsaw.

The only time I'd go to a bandsaw instead for metal cutting is where capacity requirement exceeds my cut off saw.

>> No.1057429

>>1057392
This. They are incredible but very expensive. By high TPI he means 3 -5.

Goes through Unistrut like a hot knife through butter.

The only real way to avoid a sloped cut with an abrasive disc on a chop.saw is to go slow as fuck. Like snail slow. Which sucks.

>> No.1057435

Since I got my Metabo 6" angle grinder and used thin kerf abrasive cutting discs, I stopped using my DeWalt and Milwaukee chop saws. All that shit's good for is rebar cutting.

I can cut a straight line in 3/8" thick steel plate or cut any pipe in range of the disk which is most pipe.

Best way to mark pipe for cutting is wrap a strip of emery cloth or gasket paper around the pipe then mark with chalk, Sharpie or paint marker.

>> No.1057452

>>1057419
Then you're a fool. Bandsaw will win every time. That's why they're used in fabrication shops (like the one I run).

Cut off saws are used less and less these days, even on site, where people will just use a grinder with a cutting disc.

>> No.1057520

cut-off saw vs bandsaw argument is retarded

the right tool for the right job.

if you cant cut it properly/safely on a bandsaw

then you use a cutoff saw because its abrasive

chopsaw is faster(maybe) but generates way more heat which can ruin a part

if im trying top cut something with like a rockwell of like 50 then imma use a cutoff saw

if im chopping anything that a bandsaw will cut, then im using a bandsaw

>> No.1057698

>>1057386
>now when i look down at the disk i can see it warping a little when i initiate the cut. which ends up in slope on the cut.
this is probably because the pivot that the saw rotates on or the motor bearings isn't real tight (precise)
another reason might be vibration making the part shift on the table/base while cutting (the vises on many of these things don't really clamp very tight)

>>1057392
>If its just mildsteel stuff. I know guys who swear by high Tpi carbide toothed saws instead of abrasive
I've not heard of any carbide teeth blades you can run in a high-RPM saw tho. not that I've looked.
normally they are used in cold saws, that run coolant (because the carbide teeth are brazed-on) and cost 10X what a chop saw does

>>1057391
>use a bandsaw, chopsaw are garbage
chop saws are portable and great for quick non-precise cuts
plus an abrasive wheel has no teeth to get torn off while cutting thin steel

>> No.1057860

>>1057452
They're used because they're cheap to maintain and can cope with high capacity. It doesn't make it any better or any more accurate than a cut off saw.

>> No.1057861
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1057861

>>1057698
Define non-precise. Abrasive 'chop saws' aren't brilliant but can be pretty close with the right used as for TCT 'chop saws' there's little play if any so everything else that could cause inaccuracy is down to user set up and operation.

Sooner or later abrasives just won't be as common as TCT blades become easier and cheaper to get hold of. I use a TCT cut off saw. It doesn't require coolant and runs at a slower RPM than most abrasive wheels of a similar size. Pic related - 100tooth variants are available for stainless.

>> No.1057898
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1057898

You can buy diamond abrasive saw blades that are a lot more rigid than traditional abrasive blades. They cost almost as much as a Rage2 or a small band saw though.


I'll keep my Harbor Freight 4"x6" bandsaw (#93762). It costs less than Rage2 (about the same as a high quality abrasive saw) with a coupon and it will pay for itself in blades before long when compared to a Rage2. Yeah, it's slower, but I don't need to sit there watching it. I just set up a cut and do something else for a little while.

The bandsaw is also A LOT quieter than any chop saw, even a cold saw. The chips are also really easy to manage compared to a dry cut or abrasive saw.

Each saw has its place.

>>1057860
A properly maintained bandsaw is way more accurate than a traditional abrasive saw. There is also a lot less cleanup post-cut.

>pic related

>> No.1057951

>>1057898
And that is exactly it. Not everyone can stand about waiting for a bandsaw.

The point about accuracy TCT vs Bandsaw is just a non existent argument. There is literally no blade flex in comparison to a band saw.

I have both so I can speak from both perspectives. As for cost of a TCT blade, I've been using an LC1230 with the same blade for just short of 12 months. I dare say I wouldn't be far away in cost for band saw blades if I used it as much.

If you can get a cheap-o HF bandsaw to work as accurately as you suggest fair play to ya. I expect the big boys charging thousands for engineering band saws to go out of business any day now.

>> No.1057960

>>1057860
If you don't think a bandsaw is more accurate then you aren't really worth talking to on the subject.

>> No.1057967

>>1057951
>I expect the big boys charging thousands for engineering band saws to go out of business any day now.
You're paying for the name mostly. Until you surpass Grizzly and Jet in cost (along with some other companies), you're getting a saw that is identical in all respects except paint to the HF.

Once you're paying BIG money, you get better support and more features. Auto feed, auto clamping, more mass, better bearings. All of this shit doesn't matter in a hobby or low production shop.

A band saw is just two wheels and some rollers. It isn't rocket science.

>>1057951
>Not everyone can stand about waiting for a bandsaw.
>implying there is NOTHING else to do in the shop
I'm a fucking hobbyist and even I don't spend time waiting for my bandsaw. I'm busy doing other shit.

>> No.1057974

>>1057960
>>1057967

Spot the American.

>> No.1058292

Back to OP's issue--

If you are using an abrasive blade that is reasonably flat, then there isn't any reason the blade would not cut straight through anything.
The main issue would be if the saw was mounted crooked or bent, or if there was slop in the chop saw's pivots.
When the return spring is holding it up, it might feel pretty solid. If you disconnect that spring and then wiggle the saw part, I'd bet you'll find that there's some play there.

>> No.1058294

>>1058292
No, it'll just be too much force applied to a thin kerf blade. Oldest trick in the book.

>> No.1058330
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1058330

I am in need of something to help cut RHS more productively and precisely than by hand with an angle grinder or hacksaw like I am at the moment. I've been tossing up between a bandsaw, cut off saw or getting a mitre saw like in pic and putting a metal cutting blade in it. I'm not sure which is the best option. I had an ask around at all the local tool shops about putting a metal cutting blade in a mitre saw and they all seemed it think it was doable but sketchy. Getting a horizontal bandsaw that can also stand vertical seems like it could be useful but the cheapest bandsaw setup is at least $200 more. I'm leaning away from using an abrasive cut off saw since I'd like to be able to cut wood and aluminium as well. Coldsaws cost as much as bandsaws and don't seem as versatile.

What should I do? I'm looking for something versatile that'll be worth the money.

>> No.1058331
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1058331

>>1058330
Also trying to find metal cutting saws and a mitre saw that will work together had been difficult. All the metal cutting saws I see for sale seem to be for the portable circular saws and not for the sizes the mitre saws come in.

https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/B003 This bandsaw I'm getting offered for $637 and seems decently sturdy. What do I need to check?

The mitre saw above is going for $359. Then metal cutting blades are like $150 average. https://sydneytools.com.au/hitachi-c10fce2-h1-1520w-255mm-10-compound-mitre-saw-with-blades

>> No.1058334

>>1057419
>>1057698
so point proven if your hacking some garbage apart sure you can use a chop saw, but basically if available or if your cutting new material for a customer or to fit something your going to use the bandsaw everytime.

>> No.1058346

>>1058334
No. It's not proven. All based on opinion and I've no idea who you are or what it's worth. Sorry.

>> No.1058359
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1058359

>>1058346
so in your opinion a house should be built with a hacksaw because no professional carpenter has ever sat you down to discuss the pro's and cons of circular saw?

>> No.1058361

>>1058359
That's the most bullshit analogy anyone has every come out with. I literally laughed. Cheers for the kek.

>> No.1058482

Any decent saw is only as accurate as the person using it. We use a circular saw (no idea what the correct term is in English) exclusively for both stainless and regular steel tubing. With a good eye you can quite easily cut to within half a millimeter.

>> No.1058941

If OP uses smaller diameter blades with less pressure they will deflect less.

When you've worn a standard blade down a couple of inches, note how much stiffer it is at the edge!

>> No.1058951

>>1058331
Band saw blades are inexpensive per cut, and expense PER CUT is what matters. In the size OP needs they are cheap which is nice.

Damage a 150-dollar circular saw blade and you'll be sad.

A band saw will work. A band saw is industry standard for cutting RHS which is what OP specified.

I'd get the band saw because abrasive blades cost more per cut and OP isn't wanting to buy an industrial cold saw.

Used industrial bands saws are wonderful but everyone is hunting them so bargains are hard to find.

Why wonder what might solve your problem if you can just solve it then get on to making money?

I never met anyone sorry they owned a good band saw.

>> No.1059369

>>1058951
Cheers. I've had a look around at what's been said on other forums too and I'm definitely convinced a bandsaw is the way to go. Just need to make sure I get a good one and hopefully for a good price.

Not sure what you meant by:

>Why wonder what might solve your problem if you can just solve it then get on to making money?

>> No.1059378
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1059378

>>1058361

>> No.1059741

>>1058346
>>1058346
>It's not proven. All based on opinion and I've no idea who you are or what it's worth.

wut is 4chan