/diy/ - Do It Yourself

>>2415275
Clip a ferrite bead on the cable. Maybe even solder in some suppression caps/chokes inside it. A single suppression cap at the input of the switch would be my attempt.

>>2415342
If you have a dumb load (motors, heaters, etc.) then 90% of the time it's better to just set your battery voltage to approximately the voltage you want for that load so you don't need any boosting or bucking. This is what e-bikes and such will do, the maximum power output will drop as the battery drains, but it's a lot less complicated to just not have a converter in there, especially for high-power loads. Especially especially for loads that have some form of feedback (speed-controller, thermostat, etc.).

In the event that your load ABSOLUTELY NEEDS a fixed voltage, yeah there's a spectrum of solutions, which I'd pick by function of what's easier to get working. 1S is always simplest for balancing reasons so you may want to go for that, but it does mean thicker wires and making high input-current boost converters is a bit of a pain, so I'd only do it for low-power cases. Bucking is always going to be a bit more efficient, so if you have a low-voltage high-current load (that again, NEEDS a fixed voltage) I'd go for a higher series count with buck conversion. Avoiding buck-boost is probably a good idea, but SEPIC really isn't that bad, and may possibly be more efficient if more bulky. Charging circuitry is also something to take into account, it may be easier to buck-charge from a 12V or 19V power brick than trying to step-up to 6S.
The above cases also apply if your load needs a switching converter anyhow, like a constant-current LED string.

>>2415617
Yes, it's called a schematic. They're easy to find for any dev-board out there, and from there you can reference the MCU's datasheet if you need to. LED on SCK pin, bypass caps on VCC, crystal across XTAL pins, reset button on reset line with pullup resistor (it's active low) with a high-pass cap to the UART transceiver's DTR, etc.