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/diy/ - Do It Yourself

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>> No.2693498 [View]
File: 1.03 MB, 1836x1836, IMG_20190406_110937.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2693498

>>2690525
Could be any number of reasons, but that is a babby tier model though so for it to be lifting I'm going to say your bed adhesion method is too weak.

Main cause of lifting corners is long uninterrupted edges. As the filament cools it shrinks and pulls inwards, the more layers you have the stronger the pull gets until it rips the corner off the bed. Heated bed can help but it weakens the overall adhesion which can make things worse. I think the best method is to enclose the printer in a box to have the temperature be even inside, but I haven't tried it.

Following good design practices can help you avoid it entirely, break up long edges, use large radiused corners, make the edges not straight. Although you can't do stuff like that on most designs so you might try a different material that shrinks less, PLA isn't as bad as PETG for shrinkage.

>> No.1751447 [View]
File: 1.03 MB, 1836x1836, IMG_20190406_110937.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1751447

>>1751260
>Like why is a Prusa i3 worth 1000$

It isn't, most of the cost is a tax for joining josef prusa's personality cult.

Pic is what a chinktanium 3d printer that is like 1/4th the cost of an i3 can shit out with garbage quality PLA. If you're going to spend $1000 on a printer then you might as well buy a chinese printer made of solid aluminum rails for $300 and spend the other $700 on upgrades that will leave an i3 in the dust.

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