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2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/diy/ - Do It Yourself

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>> No.413258 [View]

>>412998
Old TV/VCR repairfag here. www.mcmelectronics.com has repair parts. It might be a little more expensive, but if you don't know where to look or what to Google for it might be hard to get the right part. Measure the idler/belt and find a few of the closest sizes, unless they have a direct cross reference for the type you need. You might also want to order a cleaning kit and replace all belts.

>> No.412116 [View]

>>412109
Not op, but sweet idea.
>>412085
My idea is to put a valve on it, fill it with air, and attach a tire filling nozzle on it. You could stop by a local car repair shop and ask nicely if they'll fill it for you. Even if you have your own shop compressor, it's still nice to have a portable tank.

>> No.412108 [View]

>>412001
Make short films. Put them on Youtube. The important part is to leave comments and voting turned on. Prepare your anus and read the bad comments. Don't bother responding to bad comments. Learn what the people want. Respond and encourage the positive comments

>> No.409879 [View]

>>409874
Whoops. Had a retard moment. You can reprogram the micro to switch Q15 and Q16 on and off fast enough to cause dimming.

>> No.409878 [View]

>>409874
You'd probably be better off making a copy of the switching power supply, and running the nixie digits off of one power supply, and the symbols off of the other supply. You could add a simple circuit to replace Q15 and Q16 with an adjustable constant current load, but that makes extra heat as the transistors waste the extra current.

>> No.409869 [View]

>>409865
I'd just replace the old neon with the symbols tube and try it out. Eyeball the brightness, shut off power, replace resistor with what I think is appropriate, and try again. The variable resistor you have would probably burn out after a little while.

>> No.409857 [View]

It's your standard 300 ohm dipole. Connect the two wires to the screws. You may want to take the twisted ends, solder them together well, and insulate.
http://www.qsl.net/5/5z4ft/antennas.html
Top image is what you have, minus the mica capacitor.

>> No.409855 [View]

>>409847
Using this to control the 170V directly? Probably not. Using this to control the feedback on a switching regulator that steps up the 170V? Doable. The 170V isn't the big problem, but the current the nixie draws is. The voltage drop times the current will give you the amount of wattage that needs to be dissipated by the variable resistor. Need schematic.

>> No.409261 [View]

>>408173
Stainless steel?

>> No.408819 [View]

>>408287
Flying is the gentile art of throwing yourself at the ground and missing.

>> No.408813 [View]

>>408812
Oh merciful spaghetti, forgot the Wikipedia link.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kapton

>> No.408812 [View]

>>408811
DuPont brand name Kapton

>> No.407502 [View]

>>407488
Toss in a few desiccant packets before you close it up. How about also vacuum sealing the stuff, and using molten wax to embed everything just to make sure? How water proof for how long do you need to do this?

>> No.407500 [View]

>>407489
Have you given any thought to using a turbo from a junkyard diesel car?

>> No.406812 [View]

>>406391
Most consumer devices that plug into a computer USB port require 5V, and can draw up to 500ma. The circuitry inside the phone determines how much of that 5V is used to charge with. Most "dumb" chargers only put out 5V. The current rating of the dumb charger is the maximum the phone can pull from it. Some phones (iPhone comes to mind) look for a voltage on the D+ and D-. An Apple charger puts a certain voltage on the two lines, and the iPhone notices the voltage as a note saying how much current it can charge with. Dumb chargers with different current handling capabilities have different voltages on the D+ and D- lines so the iWhatever knows what to do.
http://www.ladyada.net/make/mintyboost/icharge.html

>> No.406798 [View]

>>406762
Trying to find a power supply capable of handling about 100 amps at a regulated voltage reliably is difficult. You may want to think about getting multiple power supplies and running the stepper motors in banks, i.e. get ten 10A power supplies and running 10 steppers on each power supply.
Another idea is to use a lower amperage power supply for all steppers, but making sure the software doesn't run all at the same time.

>> No.405160 [View]

>>403507
I guess endmill out as much as you can, then finish with a wooruff cutter.

>> No.403811 [View]

>>403753
The currents and voltages of these small panels aren't dangerous. I'd say try it. It won't break anything. Just stay away from high energy devices until you get better (car batteries, solar panels designed for your house, mains operated stuff).

>> No.403805 [View]

>>403599
If you ground the shorting stick to a good cold water pipe, or ground it to a good earth ground (third prong on a socket wouldn't be a good idea) it should be safer. Even safer if you assemble the Leyden jar on a conductive surface, attach conductive surface to a common earth ground, and attach the shorting stick to the same earth ground. You want to minimize any voltage drop across yourself. Making yourself, the stick, and the jar share the same ground will help.

>> No.400505 [View]

>>400502
*Then -> When

>> No.400502 [View]

Then the voltage at the junction of the 15K and 27K reach the trigger voltage, the 2.2uf capacitor dumps its load (giggle) into the LED. The trickle current from the 680K resistor that charges the capacitor might be enough to keep the SCR triggered on. Either try a resistor in series with the LED (increases the voltage drop and can back bias the trigger), or try a different SCR with a holding current greater than 7ua.

>> No.398282 [View]

My favorite is the joule thief. Easy to make with junk parts, and if you want you can add a capacitor across the windings and get a half decent sine wave at pretty much any frequency you want.

>> No.398273 [View]

>>398255
Evil mode:
>Walk into any store that sells computers with a pencil and paper.
>Write down the product key that's on the back of a demo machine.
>Go home.
>Install OS with stolen key.
>When it asks to contact MS over the intartubes to authenticate, select "I'll phone it in".
>Call MS. Give them the number the OS tells you.
>When the operator starts asking you questions, just tell them you had a hard drive go bad and you're reinstalling.
>Call the cops and turn yourself in.

>> No.396701 [View]

Is this thread dead yet?

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