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/diy/ - Do It Yourself

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>> No.823614 [View]

>>823573
Umm... The block at the bottom that clearly says defrost timer?

>> No.823522 [View]

>>823514
Here is a cheapy $5. Single guage reads outlet pressure. The dual guage unit I saw was complete with switching/power control. I'd keep the electrics you have as long as they work... Vintage and much cooler looking.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=400531927897

>> No.823370 [View]

>>823348
Just looked at this closer. If I'm reading right its meant to charge to 150 psi and restart at 95 psi. The other numbers may be an adjustment range, not sure. I'd try letting it run up to 150 psi and see if it shuts off... Expect it will, assuming it wasn't adjusted from factory.

>> No.823367 [View]

>>823300
That's the pressure switch. Helps that it says it on the cap. Google it up, but suspect that that flathead screw turns in and out to set terminal pressure. You will need to play with the compressor a bit to figure out how to get it to shut off at the right pressure. I don't know the rating but 120 - 140 psi is a good terminal range. There's also a lower pressure when compressor will start... This may just be a function of terminal pressure ( say 50 psi below max). Again, googhle it up.

While we are on topic, you should install a pressure regulator. That allows tank to charge to max pressure, while running tools at design pressure, say 90psi. Nailers are sensitive to this, for example. For filling tires, won't matter.

>>823305
That is the starting capacitor. Look it up. If motor won't start and hums this is blown. You should know what it is and what it does, but leave alone for now.

Rustleum brush on is exactly what I'd use on that tank. Would paint tank red or blue and compressor flat black. Again, just me.

>> No.823288 [View]

>>823220
I would scrape it off and paint it. But that's me.

>> No.823287 [View]

>>823134
Its going to be low. You could run a nail gun, blasdt air around or into tires. Run an impasct gun. You're not going to have volume to run a spray gun, ferinsrance. I've really no idea how you'd calculate this, but probably a function of tank volume and fill time/pressure.

>> No.822903 [View]

>>822864
The regulator should be that round thing that the cord goes into and out of. It will also have a fitting off the tank to monitor pressure. It may be adjustable, see if you can remove the lid.

>> No.822774 [View]

>>822766
Interesting analogy. You could probably run it either way in that case. Really only one way to find out. Have fun.

>> No.822765 [View]

>>822756
It's not cast iron, but the way it feels like that is b/c it's really old, and is probably totally overbuilt. Somewhere on it should be stamped a pressure rating. I'm betting it was rated to 2X max pressure, and in reality would be OK up to 4X. There are ways to test these things, but frankly it's a waste of resources. Just use it.

>> No.822760 [View]

>>822753
Oh eff off. This is your expert opinion based on what? Some shitty pics? What do you really know about this pressure vessel, or the potential failure modes?

OP, just make sure the pressure switch works, the pressure blow-off valve works. Pull the lower plug and drain any water from the tank.

As for the cap, no idea. If it's building pressure behind I'm be tempted to drill a hole in cap rather than trying to maintain a seal. Perhaps you should plug with a rubber cork and see what happens first... that will tell you if it's building back pressure and is a harmless failure mode (vs. a metal cap flying around.)

>> No.822363 [View]

>>822352
This is a great example of what I'm talking about. This car was built by it's creators with mostly off-the-shelf stuff as a demonstrator for this particular engine. So, when I see this, I see
>pre-production engine
>lots of standard parts like tires/wheels, axles, etc

Leaving the builders to create, from scratch, things like
>wooden frame
>body work
>fuel / other liquids tanks as needed to size

>> No.822357 [View]

>>822352
My point is that you can make something interesting without going to the trouble of creating things from scratch that you can buy for a few dollars.

Things that should be made from scratch should be unique / not readily available elsewhere. Want to cast something? Cast a nice hood ornament. Don't waste your time casting something you can buy for a few bucks. Life's too short for that kind of bullshit.

> you can do anything you want
> you can't do everything you want

>> No.822219 [View]
File: 318 KB, 250x188, fail.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
822219

>>822214
Given how hard a time most folks have just keeping themselves alive behind the wheel of a car, I have little hope. But I want to hope.

I'll leave you with this.

>> No.822181 [View]

>>822160
I'm this guy: >>822136
He says he can work on cars, so that's a start. I think a lot of these are troll posts, but hey, it's an anon board, if you can't be stupid here, where else are you going to go?

Building a car from scratch isn't impossible, there's just no reason to actually do it. Even automakers don't have the same engineers doing powertrain development as chassis/body, b/c they are very different skill sets (they aren't made in the same plants either, for same reason).

Cost for a single hand-built unibody was over $500K at GM, and took many guys months. Full custom powertrain is more... IIRC custom engine was ~$1M.

Even car pictured; the old school coachbuilders, bought complete drivetrains/chassis from makers and built bodies around them, b/c it's too hard to do everything. And that was still wildly expensive... which is why no one does it that way anymore.

Closest I've seen to this in "common" practice (which mean probably a few hundred tackle it a year) is the Locost 7, which is basically a Lotus 7 knockoff. There, the builder scratch builds a tube frame, and major body components are fibreglass. All major components (engine, trans, spindles, axles, master cyl, etc) are sourced from scrap cars and adapted on, b/c who in their right mind is going to cast their own master cylinder?

>> No.815712 [View]

>>815697
> Inbred morons with IQ well below room temperature operating heavy equipment are
You just described many of my co-workers. The others were college kids with zero equipment training.
> Hey kid, you can drive a car? Here's a 5T combine to operate
> There's the clutch, there's the gas, that big lever engages the thresher.
> See you at lunch time

>> No.815702 [View]

>>813075
Hey anon, is this pic where you were operating? What state/part of country?

>> No.815696 [View]

>>815693
> Year 3, didn't work there. Hear story about my old employer
> Farmer family flies out cousin from Ireland
> Won't it be fun to have him work harvest like FS and FD
> Cousin operating combine on field from story above
> Remember my comments about shifting tractors? Applies to combines too.
> Combine needs to be completely stationary to shift. No synchros; if combine is in motion you can't get it into next gear once in neutral.
> Shifting procedure is to sidehill combine so it won't roll, even out of gear, then shift gears.
> No reason to shift gears anyway. Harvesting is done in 1 gear, moving around field done in another. End of day sort of thing to do.
> FS can't be bothered. On this hill, his procedure is to stomp on brake, shift, keep going, bc faster
> Cousin tries this, apparently, at end of day.
> Gets combine out of gear.
> Combine starts rolling
> Brakes are enough to keep 5T combine stationary, but not to stop it once rolling
> Combine rolls down hill, off cliff. Cousin stays with the combine.
> Farmer family sends home Ireland cousin in a box.

>> No.815693 [View]

>>815689
> Year 2
> Working on field, 30-40 degree slope with 7 other wheat combines. Hill slopes to flat plain, surrounded by cliff (80 deg slope)
> Combines need to be level to work, and has heavy hydraulic rams to keep platform level while cutter stays parallel to ground.
> Most cutting is done side hill, not up/down, b/c combine works better that way.
> Combine also holds ~3 tons of wheat in top hopper; this mass is held up high.
> Combines do a good job staying level as long as you give the hydraulics time to keep it level, since it's easier to keep something upright than pick it up from 45 degree angle.
> We have CB radios for communication.
> Am working bottom of hill, hear screaming on CB
> Supervisor truck headed warp speed up hill
> Look up to top of hill
> Combine tipped entirely away from hill, full grain hopper spilling over top. Basically as far as it can tip wrong way
> Operator cutting sidehill, turned from left-right to right-left cut too fast, hydraulics couldn't keep up going lock to lock and collapsed.

>> No.815689 [View]

>>815673
Wheat farming, eastern Washington state. Going to refer to farmer son and daughter as FS and FD. Both were general fuckups. This is hilly country, working up in the foothills on steep ground; none of that flat Midwestern stuff. Worked for these guys 2 years.

> FD destruction log, year 1
> 3 field fires
> Driving wheat truck too fast through fields kicks up straw dust which ignites. Dry wheat burns really fast...
> 1 combine
> 20' wide combine header needs to go through 21' foot wide bridge.
> We all do this at 1 MPH with mechanic walking in front to guide us
> FD takes bridge at full road moving speed (15 MPH)
> Mashes bridge side, shit bends, combine dead for season.

> FS destruction log
> 1 FD
> After pea harvest, need to break up little piles of pea vines that happen everywhere combine stops
> Kids out pitching pea pods, riding in back of pickup with pitchforks
> FS driving, FD and others in back
> FS driving like a maniac, pitches FD out of open bed on turn, breaks her hip
> No more FD in year 2

> Forward to end of season, year FS broke FD hip.
> FS driving trap wagon with 6 of us in back
> Him and 2 of his prep school buddies in cab
> Trap wagon is basically a beat to shit truck with +1000 lb fuel tank in back.
> FS driving like maniac again on deeply rutted dirt road (50+ MPH)
> Nearly hits oncoming truck on narrow road
> Hits bump so hard 1000 lb fuel tank lifts 1" off bed, almost off pins that hold it down (not bolted down, b/c why would it need to be?)
> Realize FS is going to get us all killed, look at coworkers, realize I'm going to have to deal with this.
> Reach into cab of truck, haul him half way out window by arm
> Tell him if he doesn't slow down, I'm going to bash through back glass and kill him
> Am 100% serious
> FS slows down. Season ends 2 days later, get paid, don't go back.

>> No.815673 [View]

>>813075
>>813305
This bears an explanation.

Tractors are not cars. You NEVER shift them out if gear into new gear unless you're on flat.

Likewise, suspect rancher meant that if you needed parking brake to hold vehicle still, you parked it wrong.

Farming is effing deadly. I've stories, will write when I get to a real computer.

>> No.814013 [View]

>>813996
You'll probably be better off with paint remover. I doubt even a heat gun would be hot enough.

>> No.814005 [View]

>>813899
That looks like a burned finish with a colored clear coat.

You take a propane torch and burn the surface of the bare wood. Then you hit it lightly with a wire wheel or wire brush to remove the charred part. Varnish, done.

I've used this to make signs. Haven't tried a guitar.

>> No.813369 [View]

>>813365
? Surprised you need a retainer bar with locking nut. Ser!ms like a part only needed on standard nut.

>> No.813365 [View]

>>812925
Not sure I'm totally following but if retainer bar is that metal tube that holds stings to but between nut and tuners, not sure you really need a drill. Just run the screws in. I used to sometimes start them with a hammer first to get seated.

You really should get a drill tho. Even a hand powered one.

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