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2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/diy/ - Do It Yourself

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>> No.837291 [View]

>>837222
Don't knock the Miata until you drive one, a manual, anyway. They're a lot of fun driven at their limit... most people just don't know how to drive them. And since they're lower powered, they are more forgiving than high-powered sports cars.

It's one of my favorite cars ever built, and I used to benchmark cars for an OEM.

>> No.836794 [View]

>>836770
I'm >>836224

It could be that OP means, by "track car," just another aesthetics-modified vehicle. In that case, it's just rims/struts/spoiler/bolt-on body kit and paint, along with whatever shit kids are doing to cars these days. That's not a track car... it's just a car with a bunch of shit bolted to it.

OPs pic makes me think that's what he's really looking to do. For guidance on that, best consult with his friends / car forums / car mags re: what's cool now, b/c whatever he does, it doesn't really matter since there's no performance goals.

>> No.835407 [View]

>>835223
Yes. Don't dye fabric. Get it in the color you need and use it.

You're going to need a significant amount of fabric... 8 to 10 yds I'd guess. The space and tub needed to successfully dye the fabric well is onerous... It will end up streaked and uneven like tie dye. Also, won't hold color well in use.

Also, don't cheap out on fabric. If you're going to the effort to make this you will not want to use cut rate materials. You will kick yourself later if you do... Better to not do the project than cut that particular corner.

>> No.834844 [View]

>>834842
Actually, as I think about it, you'd have to make that stitch as well as back it with a backer cloth and stuff it separate to make it bunch up. Otherwise I think it will just flatten out.

>> No.834842 [View]

>>834819
I saw that too. I agree with your sister. Tho a better way may be to cut along the breast line and insert a width of clothe the depth of the breast to make them stand up. It depends on the look you're going for.

>> No.834838 [View]

>>834809
So, basically the way you set a singer lower bobbin tension is to load bobbin case with bobbin and thread it. Holding thread, lightly bounce the bobbin case and bobbin. It should let out a little thread, but not hit the floor.

No thread out, too tight.
Hits floor, too loose.

Assume yours is similar. I don't think tension is your issue, but something to check.

>> No.834794 [View]

>>834645
I see a bobbin, not the bobbin case. Does it look like Singer? Take another pic for us.

If it's sewing well forward but not back, I'm tempted to say tension is not your issue. Wondering if you've got the bobbin in the case threaded backward... just not familiar with those machines.

>> No.834790 [View]

>>834639
Also, this bear's arms are probably sewn closed with stuffing, and pinned to side of body with either rotating cuff or stitch. I don't think that's an appropriate attachment for what you're making. Cat's arms are actually closer, though I'd shape them more.

>> No.834789 [View]

>>834639
>>834638
>with depth and dimension
That's really the tricky part. The guy you drew doesn't have much depth or features though.

So, for head you need to make sure you have a neck... don't just sew chin to chest like cheshire cat. Make an actual head shaped object with an appropriate size neck hole, and a matching one on body, so it's 2 spheres.

Same with arms/legs/horns; the tube ends should go into roundish holes on body vs. sewn flat and into body seam. Arms will be trickiest to get right; the sew together will look like putting a sleeve onto a coat, except there'll be more fabric at top of arm to simulate shoulders (I've no idea what that arm pattern would look like, b/c you need extra for shoulders.)

You'll of course sew all parts up, adding head/arms/etc to body through slit in back last, then stuff whole thing and close it up.

If you haven't gone to /cgl yet, they may be a better resource.

>> No.834509 [View]

>>834504
Oh, and with anything this large (thus expensive) would strongly suggest making a scale model... say 1:8 or 1:4, from like material to work out kinks in pattern.

>> No.834504 [View]

>>834309
This is a doable project if you know how to sew already and are comfortable with basic pattern making. It's going to take a lot of material. Swag... 8-10 yards? And a hell of a lot of stuffing.

Use is first consideration. Assume it's meant to be a big pillow, not a mattress. If mattress, the insides would be more like a futon, with appropriately heavy cover. As a pillow... softer/lighter material is OK, and fill with polypro batting. Depending on how round, maybe centered around a bean bag chair.

Material... fleece, probably, as it's stretchy, soft, easy to work with, cheap, covers flaws, and works well for pillows.

The body is basically 2 spheres / ovals. Here, you need to decide how thick it will be (more thick = more spherical). Legs/arms/horns are tubes. Basic geometry is your friend here. Fingers are more tubes, rest is sew on decoration. Design the body in sections and attach together.

>> No.834042 [View]

>>832778
It's a rental. Who cares.

>> No.834031 [View]

>>834005
Apartment?
Knitting
Macrame
Music playing... Guitar etc
Electronics... Bread boarding and such
Container gardening if balcony.
Home brewing.

>> No.833874 [View]

>>830789
How's that working out for you?

>> No.826899 [View]

>>826069
Take a photo of the plate and post it. The rating doesn't make sense as written.

>> No.825018 [View]

>>824977
Pressure blow off valve... you don't have one on that thing. It's a valve that blow off pressure once tank hits a certain point (usually slightly above target charge pressure.) They let out air in the case that the motor doesn't switch off at 150 PSI like it's supposed to. It would be usually installed between tank and pressure regulator, but, really, anywhere on the tank will work. Most types I've seen are resetable, I believe they also make 1-time use models that blow out and need replaced. You want the former. Example:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-1-2-NPT-150-PSI-Air-Compressor-Safety-Relief-Pressure-Valve-Tank-Pop-Off-/290967515459

>>824993
To do this, you fill the tank with water, then pressurize the water. There are ghetto DIY-ways to do this with a pressure washer that I'll let you research, but the right way is with a tool plumbers have that can charge up to 600 PSI, for testing water pipes. The reason you use water is that it's incompressible, so if/when vessel fails it just gushes water out; it doesn't explode as it would in case of air.

>> No.824732 [View]

>>824724
Gotcha.

There are no stock parts on that guy. Someone bought a professionally made pressure canister and likely welded the support brackets to hold a repurposed HVAC compressor. The then tubed it up with parts from era. Its 60s diy.

>> No.824722 [View]

>>824694
Was the Rainbird gauge on there originally? That's a really nice gauge... This beast really is an odd collection of parts...

>> No.824720 [View]

>>824677
Looking much better.

Why are you filling air in the bottom fitting? That fitting is meant to have a removable plug. You remove it every so often (ranging from every use to every year depending on your level of maintenance) to drain out the water that fills these tanks over time.

>> No.824187 [View]

>>824185
Would=wouldn't. But as I think on it, copper is what they use in the HVAC application, and I'm betting guy that buikt thus was an HVAC tech.

>> No.824185 [View]

>>824068
Yeah, you'd mentioned that it had copper. Copper would be what I would have used for this but apparently it worked. Also, doesn't rust.

I think this ones up to you. But I'd stay low buck on this guy... $25 is a lot for just lines.

>> No.823780 [View]

>>823777
I've a 4 inch angle grinder with steel brush, but I also have the drill size one. Its incredibly handy for this size stuff, and cheap.

>> No.823779 [View]

>>823690
If you really want to dig into this tank, you could remove that giant square plug on the tank and check inside with a flashlight. That bwill give you an idea what it looks like. Don't think for a secvondbthat will satisfy anyone here though. They won't be happy until you've had it professionally hydro tested.

I'd just run it. Pinhole rust failure mode will be a stream of air out in case of corrosion. Catastrophic failure of welds is a big deal... So don't over pressure the tank, right?

>> No.823774 [View]

>>823706
I just tried it, its fine. If not, eBay air compressor regulator.

>>823768
Depends on paint, but I wouldn't bother. That can cause as much trouble as anything. Looks much better now BTW. Fwiw I always wire bush this kind of thing prior to paint. I don't trust the paint over rust materials.

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