/diy/ - Do It Yourself

Okay people. Quick legal lesson. I had to ask a lawyer friend about this myself when I was smelting pennies for the zinc a few years back.

This is US law, other places might be different.

It is not illegal to destroy coins. Generally. You only run into a legal issue if you destroy money with the intent to defraud the government.

For example. You only need 90% or so (can't remember the exact number right now) of a bill for it to count as money. So if you took ten bills, cut them up into ten pieces, and taped them back together as 11 bills that where 90% complete, that is illegal. Highly illegal.

Melting a coin down for the metal, though, is just fine.

>>110826
Listen to this advice my friend. I have scars where I had to learn the hard way of the dangers of trapped moisture and molten metals.

If you make molds of plaster, bake them extensively to remove all the moisture first.

>>105571

Thank you for your information, I wasn't aware that I was creating chlorine with that process. I always worked outside, on windy days, so as to keep fumes from building up, but I wasn't aware how bad those fumes were.

Laundry soda, eh? I'll check it out. I assume it doesn't produce any harmful vapors, though I imagine I still have to deal with the hydrogen and oxygen produced.

Bleach cleans nicely, and give a nice white, but also softens the bone. I don't use it anymore. Just dish soap and elbow grease. If it is still discolored, I sometimes sunbleach, but that's not great for the bone either.

You can dye bone with fabric dye.

I mostly make knives from chunks I get from grocers and butchers. I never seal them. You'd lose the seal sharpening the knife.

I use band saws, jigsaws, bench grinders, and dremels to work bone.

What you want my friend is Electro Etching
.
Get a Car battery charger (make sure it has jumper cable type clips on it), a plastic bucket, clear packing tape, a design, and a large steel bolt or steel plate similar size of the flask.

Cover the sides and bottom of the flask in tape. Don't worry about the top. Then use an exacto knife to cut out your design from the tape.

Put the flask and the steel item in the plastic bucket, fill with water, but not to the point it goes over the tape and touches the top of the flask.

Add salt to the water. Alot. Like a quarter cup of salt.

Clip the positive wire of the battery charger to the flask, and the negative to the steel object. Do not turn it on yet.

Make sure your steel object it places directed infront of the design, but is not touching it. At all. This is important.

Turn the charger on, Stand back. Wait.

Make sure you are doing this somewhere well ventilated, hydrogen and oxygen are a by product of this process.

Depending on the charger this could take longer or shorter. I got a good deep etch after a couple hours. So after some time passes. Turn the charger off, pull out the flask and check the depth of the etch. Also, watch your water levels. If they get too low, stop everything and add more water.

I will not claim this is safe. But I will vouch this works.

An exfoliator in soap could work.

Grind them up, mix with wax for a binding agent, and compress into blocks for a decent fuel source.

Vaseline will work. Can be a pain to wash off afterward, though.

Warning: Plaster heats up as it cures, if you just stick you face in a big bowl of plaster and let it cure around you, it might get uncomfortably hot.

If you use plaster for your mold, bake it in the oven first to remove moisture. If there is moisture left in the mold, it will boil out, fucking up the cast, and possibly splattering you with hot metal. Can even sometimes shatter your mold. I speak from experience here.

Plaster will give you a smoother cast. Won't have the grainy texture of sand casting.

Get an epoxy resin. Either the fiberglass resin sold in hardware stores or a bunch of 5 minute epoxy. 1:1 ratio resins are easier for first timers to work with. Casting resin will work just fine. You can find it at craft chains like Micheal's
or Hobby Lobby. Opaque resin is cheaper then clear from those places, usually.

Mix up a small batch, and smear it all over the mask. Wear gloves. Do this somewhere very well ventilated, but not too humid.

Wear a high dollar respirator if you can. If you can't afford one, don't bother with a cheap one, it won't help and will only get in your way, just keep the area ventilated.

Smear it over in small batches. Don't make a lot thinking to do the whole mask at once. If you get delayed or it takes longer then you expect, the resin will cure before you are done working and be useless.

You can sand it once the resin cures. Use a plastic bonding paint. Clear coat it once done.

Take pics and post them here to show off when done or if you run into trouble and need more help.

Okay, I'm no programmer, so while this is something I think is possible, it's way beyond my ability to actually implement:

What a program was designed that you could run on any computer. It takes control of a wireless adapter, a different one then the one you use to connect to the regular net. It runs the adapter in such a way, that it's designed to connect to to other adapters controlled by the same program.

The programs allows file sharing, messaging, web hosting, email, and similar services. When you first connect to another to another person running the program, a status request is sent out. You get back a list a all services a that you are in range of, as well as all services that everyone that you are connected to is in range of.

Is this doable? My limited knowledge says yes, but I wouldn't know where to begin to create something like that.

>>95200

I personally believe in self policing. It's usually democratic, and a good sign of what people want from something.

Illegalities are tricky here. At base, we are approaching the idea of making this network to ignore a law that will might soon get passed. That puts us in a legal gray area to start with. If we use this network to file share, we've just broken laws. And pissed off a big corporate power block.

On the other hand, I don't want to net to become just mired pit of CP, money laundering, and scammers, like so much of the existing DarkNets already are. Which means imposing some rules somewhere. I'm against CP. I'm against Spam, and I'm against censorship. Any network I work on, I'd ideally want to be free of those things.

So, how do we want to start this up? What could we do to set up a DarkNet? What programs and practices could we start today that would leave us with the beginnings of a network?

I live in Jacksonville. A wireless network like a few pirate boxes hooked together and wifi boosters and antenna could work, but you'd need a serious movement to blanket the whole city.

We could set up a WASTE mesh. it's encrypted, so you can fairly freely fileshare, chat, and message over the internet, but keys have to be shared, and it's not anonymous just encrypted.

Think about this, the internet in it's current form will be just a story we tell our children and grandchildren if SOPA gets through. This is the death of net freedom, and I don't want to say I just sat around and watched it happen. Somepeople were all about Occupy Wall Street. I'd rather occupy a free internet.

>>94831

I support TOR. I hope many others with also begin supporting it and setup TOR relays. The more relays, the more bandwidth the whole network will have. But it's not invulnerable. There are big problems with it. Not the least of is the massive CP presence that taints it in the eyes of many. I support other DarkNets as well. I don't know much of I2P, but it is the main alternative to TOR. I also coordinated private WASTE mesh ages ago for a group. I have some experience with Darknets, but I'm no expert at the cryptology.

I think we should combine the wireless mesh idea with existing subnet based DarkNets. Say the urban centers set up a mostly standardized wireless network. This allows us to share among ourselves. But the net has gates to the clear net. People outside of the urban wireless zones can tunnel in using anonimizing proxy routing and connect to the meshes. This allows the various wireless zones to interconnect. Obviously speeds will be better within a mesh, then between them, but I don't see a solution to that, yet. Access to the internet of the greater world could be possible through a proxy to another nation.

I don't have a ready solution, but I'm willing to help work for one.

What do you do with a dremel?

Any fucking thing you want. You have a dremel tool, the world is now you oyster. There are very few problems in life that proper application of a dremel won't fix.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-Paintball-Mine/

This is a landmine, not a claymore, but maybe this can help you.

Also, did you think of overnight shipping your claymore kit to your destination? Just because you can't take it with you on your plane, doesn't mean it can't get there on it's own.

>>83722

I think those have already been harvested. Circuit board and screen is all that's left.

>>83738

Fresnel lens, eh? Could be neat. Big though. I'd need a glass cutter to get something of a manageable size.

>>83764

No snow in FL I'm afraid. Pity. I haven't been sledding in over ten years now.

So there is the remains of a rear projection TV sitting on the corner. It's been gutted already. Cord cut, and projector missing.

I just salvaged the speakers (not that I know what to do with them), but I'm wondering about the rest of it.

Is the Screen worth taking? Does it have special properties? Is it worth selling or reusing? Hell, do you know if it's glass or plastic?

And is the circuit board worth grabbing for scrap? I don't have the means to salvage all the capacitors and resistors from it, but is it worth grabbing? If someone on here wants it, I'll send it to you if you pay shipping.

You can make a strong, slightly stetchy lacing by cutting strips of bicycle inner tubes. This would make a great thematic lacing to sew your armor together with. And it's cheap. Hit up a bike store and ask for old tubes and worn tires.

Get a tire repair kit. It will have a needle designed to go through tires while holding a plug. Use this needle to lace your armor.

>>82695

Not at all.

Adsense is a basic ad server. You put a small chunk of code on your site that displays a small banner ad or something, and you get paid for views and clicks.

You already said you don't want that. And that's fine.

But when you sign up for adsense, and confirm your address, they send you a coupon for $100 bucks of free adwords.

This basically means they are serving an ad for your site on other webpages. They serve the ad until you get $100 dollars worth of ad traffic from the words, and then if you want to continue, you have to pay for the service.

I tired it out for my blog. It got me lots of new unique page views.

You tried drumming up exposure doing band flyers? Have a line at the bottom saying Flyer Art by OP, and offer a cheap deal on the design for the band. Cheap advertising, and the flyers will get posted everyfucking where.

If you get a google adsense account, they usually send you a coupon for $100 free adwords. This is worth it. It can really drive up hits to you site.

Well, I hope you have an ad service of some sort.

Do you have time to drum up any interest from forums? I got mad hits to my blog back when I had time to post to lots of forums. My blog would always be in my forum signature, so every post would generate a link. Find a few forums relevant to your product or interest and post often.

>>82598

What's the price difference for contractors? I work at Lowes, and we don't offer any kind of markdown for contractors or commercial sales. Well, unless you get a Lowes business credit account. You get 10% then.

>>82282

I have this man's book. It is amazing.

>>80464

Generally I just avoid locked dumpsters. I can pick locks, but considering the likely hood of getting harassed by the police when diving unlocked dumpsters, diving a locked one is just asking for trouble.

I admit I've considered picking a lock, and deposing of it and claiming the dumpster was unlocked when I got there, but I don't want to be caught messing with the lock if the cops drive by.

I've not yet tried Silicone casting with pewter, but Sand casting works fine But detail is going to depend on the quality of your green sand., and I've had great detail with plaster. Made a set of Pewter replicas of the Coins from Power Rangers for a friend. Cast those in plaster, and everything came out great. You will need to bake your molds overnight in the oven to get out any moisture. Otherwise they will crack, explode, and cause your metal to bubble up and splatter everywhere. Voice of experience here.

Silver should be spun cast or vacuum cast from what I know. Considering the metal loss from oxidation, I wouldn't want to learn precious metal casting on my own by trial and error. Find someone to teach it to you. Maybe take a class at your local trade school.