[ 3 / biz / cgl / ck / diy / fa / g / ic / jp / lit / sci / tg / vr ] [ index / top / reports / report a bug ] [ 4plebs / archived.moe / rbt ]

Maintenance is complete! We got more disk space.
Become a Patron!

/cgl/ - Cosplay & EGL

View post   

[ Toggle deleted replies ]
File: 53 KB, 679x1606, 61ujQzctDNL._AC_SX679_.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
10346284 No.10346284 [Reply] [Original] [rbt]

Couldn't find one in the catalog edition

>> No.10346285

Are adjustable dress forms like in OP pic worth it? I'm in the process of losing weight and the one I'm looking at fits my current and target measurements. I'm only practicing sewing for now so I'm not worried about things not fitting or having to resize later.

>> No.10346361

Unless you're working for clients with different sizes or you go up and down a lot, I don't think they're great. They're fragile, the gaps are impractical and you can't really get an accurate shape. I'd say it's better to get a non adjustable one a bit smaller than what you think your measurements will be, pad to your size and put a cover on it, and when your measurements change take out some of the padding.

>> No.10346376

That's what I was thinking. There's an adjustable one for sale local to me for a good price but I think I'd rather buy a traditional dummy and put a cover on it like you suggested. Thanks!

>> No.10346400
File: 104 KB, 794x794, il_794xN.729168950_5lej.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Anyone know where to find some decent lab/wool/curly faux fur? I can only seem to find it at like $100 a yard or in crappy colors.

>> No.10346401


>> No.10346707

Not worth it unless you have a difficult to find size or sew for others. It was easier for me to find a petite adjustable dressform than a mannequin in my size so I went for that, but I would have preferred a non-adjustable form as they're more robust.

>> No.10346717

What online stores offer fabric and trims suitable for a yumekawaii(think spank and nile perch) style? looking into making a sundress with a cute print for spring/summer.
Crossposting to the yumekawaii/fairy-kei thread

>> No.10346735

I would actually look on ebay and etsy for those sorts of fabrics. Trim will depend on how you want to embellish it, I feel like Nile Perch mainly puts bows on things and you can buy ribbon anywhere.

>> No.10346792

Different anon, but how is etsy in terms of fabrics and trims? So far I've seen the listings dominated by Spoonflower and everything seems to be atleast $5+/yd.

>> No.10346793

On the trim front, they have nice stuff but it's expensive. I always check Aliexpress first, it also lets me know which etsy stores are just reselling Ali/taobao stuff

>> No.10346794

Could anyone recommend a good online sewing course?
I'm not a beginner anymore, but I wish I could develop more skills pertaining finishings and structure when sewing my pieces.

>> No.10346805

I'm searching on there but I need a little help with terms.
I usually search for things like "kawaii Japan", "cute Japan" or "children Japan" to get Japanese import fabric. I also search by characters(you know, sanrio and stuff) and I know of econeco collabs.
I was thinking that maybe a diy magazine like otome no sewing has fabric recommendations?

>> No.10346956

Does anyone have tips for finding a good seamstress/tailor? I have a secondhand dress I want to modify, but it's silk and I know I'm not a high enough skill level to not fuck it up.

>> No.10346957

Find someone who does bridal alterations

>> No.10347010

Thanks for the info, senpai.

>> No.10347012

Professor Pincushion on Youtube has skill specific videos, but they're not linked to a project. I guess search "Intermediate Sewing Course" on youtube and watch the ones that have the most views or likes.

>> No.10347014

>I was thinking that maybe a diy magazine like otome no sewing has fabric recommendations?
The patterns thread has a link to a majority of the magazine issues in pdf form right now

>> No.10347018

Thanks for the suggestion, anon!

>> No.10347022

Just checked the website and it's exactly what I'd been looking for! Thanks again, good-hearted anon.

>> No.10347025

Do you think sewing is more popular with normal people or with fatty-chans?

>> No.10347028

If you check the sewing groups on Facebook you have more non-fatty members.

>> No.10347030

I'm glad.

>> No.10347065
File: 33 KB, 828x446, blushie.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Aw, I'm happy it helped

>> No.10347067

Any group suggestions?

>> No.10347431

Are you sewing for cosplay or fashion? Cosplay side SheProp is great

>> No.10347450

Both. I primarily have time and resources for cosplay, but I plan on building up my wardrobe over time. Thanks, I'll check it out!

>> No.10347451

>It's a womens group
I love it and I love you. Thanks, anon. I sent in a join request.

>> No.10347464

Be careful there is a trans girl in there.

>> No.10347470

I would also love some fashion-focused sewing group recommendations, Facebook or otherwise

>> No.10347518

Seconded, especially alternative fashion. I’d really like to find a group with a good atmosphere that also encourages constructive criticism. Every group I’m currently part of just blindly praises everything even if I ask for concrit and it’s kind of annoying.

>> No.10347837

Be careful of what?

>> No.10347846

The male.

>> No.10347875

The Lolita Sewing Collective is the most active group I cant think of right now.

>> No.10347878


>> No.10347929 [DELETED] 

Why do you feel threatened by a trans person existing in an online group? I can guarantee you she doesn't want to fuck you

>> No.10347939

You’d think it would be the other way around because of how much harder it is to find big lolita clothes but yeah, most of the sewers I know are thin. Maybe because it’s a lot easier to drape and fit clothes to a small frame? I know that’s why clothing companies generally prefer thin models

>> No.10347963

Alongside Professor Pincushion, I'd suggest Mimi G channel https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCAF_pB4d_S-gQS8WuxLjn1w

>> No.10347966

I don't know how it works for overweight people, but I guess it's harder for them to find suitable patterns that won't need alterations.

When I first started I'd just search randomly on the internet and every pattern provider would have my measurements available. I'd print these and use them to train myself.

When your measurements aren't standard, I guess it would be harder to surpass the beginner mark and get to the point where you start making your own patterns or alter them to your measurements.

>> No.10348080
File: 65 KB, 700x906, FBA-SBA.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>harder for them to find suitable patterns that won't need alterations
This is probably a big part of it. When I first started out sewing I didn't realize most commercial patterns are made for a B-cup regardless of pattern size and require adjusting the pattern otherwise, so I had a lot of fit issues. I was lucky and was able to talk to an experienced seamstress to figure it out, but I could see someone without those resources giving up the hobby as expensive and frustrating.

>> No.10348108

Any better suggestions? That one has a lot of people with terrible taste and I don't think I could get legitimate concrit there.

>> No.10348110 [DELETED] 

Imagine thinking this is the only reason a woman would be uncomfortable with a trans woman in a woman-focused group.

>> No.10348140


I'd way rather have a random transgirl than a dozen "transmasq nonbionary's" who want to be sexy gay anime boys and opt out of sexism but still want to benefit from the efforts and community building of women

But she prop has both , fair warning

>> No.10348251

Thanks, I'll check them out!

>> No.10348252

Oh I've watched a few of her vids! I just bought her pants pattern.

>> No.10348385

LSC was supposed to be the non-ita, concrit-encouraged version of P&L but it looks like every lolita sewing group ends up being inundated with itas. I wish there was a group with quality standards but its mods and members would have to be able to put their foot down and not cave to accusations of elitism.

>> No.10348406
File: 29 KB, 722x349, 1506741314158.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>all full bust alterations involve huge modifications to the waist
>patterns are already way too huge in the waist on me
>end up just getting a bigger size pattern and cutting out huge chunks of waist fabric as I go
This feels so wasteful but I don't know a better way.

>> No.10348424

Draft from a custom bodice block, or cross grade between sizes

>> No.10348426

Hello me from the past, it is I, you from the future! I used to do the same thing, cutting patterns based on my bust and then using darts and princess seams to take out big chunks of fabric all over the place. I often ended up creating more problems for myself. It would result in huge gaping armholes but when I tried to alter those, sleeves wouldn’t fit into the armscythe and I’d have to alter those, etc.

Early last year I decided fuck it, I’m going to do a full bust adjustment on my favourite princess seam bodice. It actually wasn’t that hard, just a few hours’ work, and the resulting pattern fit me perfectly with no gaping anywhere including the waist. Now I use that pattern as my go-to bodice block and simply paste different necklines onto it for different projects. It has saved me a lot of work in the end and it looks so much better than the darty messes I used to make. The only downside is that the side front pieces have a really sharp curve and I can’t just pin them to the middle front anymore, I have to carefully baste everything before sewing. It’s worth it, though.

>> No.10348427

If you have an actual reason then enlighten me because I don't see a single one that doesn't ultimately boil down to transphobia

>> No.10348503


>> No.10348727

Which volume of Gosurori has the tartan jacket and skirt pattern?

>> No.10348748

Different anon but this is extremely helpful advice about the basting before sewing. I've been working a dress bodice with multiple curved seams and I don't know why I didn't think to try that.

>> No.10348828 [DELETED] 

Misandry is hating men, trans women aren't men

>> No.10348831 [DELETED] 

>believing that misandry is a thing
>believing that being trans is a thing
How come so many alt righters/mras secretly want to be dicked in the ass by a shemale?
>I-it's not gay when she looks more feminine (read: bimbolike) than you feminazis!

>> No.10348846


This is a thread for sewing, not gender wank. Nobody curr either way. Christ, this board has gone downhill.

>> No.10348901

While tidying up my sewing hoard I found a 20cm invisible zip that perfectly matches some fabric I was planning to make a blouse out of. I’m considering foregoing the button closure and putting the zip upside-down in the side seam instead, but I’ve never done that before and it’s a little on the short side. What do? I feel compelled to use it because I have no idea what else to use such a short invisible zipper for (how did it find its way into my hoard? it is a mystery) and I don’t like wasting materials.

Pinning is usually so much faster that I tend to do that first on the off-chance that it does turn out fine under the machine, but for really tricky seams I’ve learnt the hard way that basting saves me a lot of time and frustration in the end!

>> No.10348918 [DELETED] 

Their dna says otherwise.

>> No.10348977


Why install it upside down? Side zips are fine, they get used in dresses all the time, but rarely upside down

>> No.10348988
File: 22 KB, 480x360, 07cf870ba05cd9aee34bd762f57e0f6a.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


Usually it's very fitted blouses with a wide neck opening, so the zipper opens up at the bottom to let you fit your bust into the blouse and your head into the neckhole (and arms into the sleeves/armhole), then you zip the side up so that the blouse comes down fitted over your waist and isn't loose.


The widest part of your blouse is probably the bust area, if you've enough zipper length to go between that and the waist I'd got for a mockup and baste the zipper in to see what it would really be like to crawl into and out of the blouse. Something with a loose fit or a stretchy fabric it would still work out.

If it really doesn't work out, just keep the zipper for another project -- maybe a purse, or a zippered pocket inside a bag (then you'd need to match the lining, which can be a contrasting colour to the outside of the bag, rather than wait for another project with the exact same colour).

Not much point bending over backwards trying to use scraps that aren't worth the trouble of sewing them up, imo.

>> No.10349612

Asking this because I'm sure more people would want to be in an active normal sewing community and/or create their own but:

How would one in this modern day create a sewing/handcraft community for the younger generation that is seriously interested in sewing and not creating furry suits or lace monster dresses?

When I say younger generation obviously in this context I don't mean zoomers kek, just anything from 18-40 instead of the usual elderly age range. Just give me your thoughts please, can be anything from platform ideas to concept ideas. Also, would it be interesting to create an open community, in the sense of being allowed to discuss both normie wear and lolita wear? I feel creating solely a lolita community or solely a normie community would just have inactivity/no users.

If only a handcraft's equivalent of conceptart.org/ exists. Or does it already?

>> No.10349800

Honestly, I've seen a lot more young people (mainly in the tiktok scene) get into DIYing clothing, thrift flips, painted jeans and shirts. So many of them don't know how to sew and makes their lives so much harder than it needs to be, but that desire to create is still there. Honestly, I think you would have to go where the teens are and reach out to them in their own space and language.

>> No.10349933


I think I answered something similar before, reddit's r/sewing is the closest thing to the sort of openness you mention -- there's often prom dresses by teenagers posted right next to college girls upcycling some thrift store find, and then a few days later someone will post a normal dress, following by some dude posting a drag queen costume.

If you want to create your own platform, I'm not really sure if many people would use it. Maybe if you got some sewing bloggers on board to help boost publicity you could get some people to start using it.

One thing I'll mention, I always liked ravelry's pattern library and wished there was something similar for sewing patterns. There are sewing pattern libraries out there, but they're usually incomplete, and they don't contain as many filters as ravelry does to narrow down searches.

>> No.10349947

Can you not just give it away or use it in pants/a skirt rather than forcing it into a garment where it may well not work? I hate side zip shirts with a passion and have no idea how anyone with a larger bust and shoulders gets them on.

>> No.10350073

Is there a way to just cut a slit in something to make a pocket? I'm making a coat, but the pattern uses patch pockets which I don't want. All the pocket tutorials I see say to open the side seam, but is there a technique to make pockets beyond that? I just wanted to put them closer to the front.

>> No.10350086
File: 32 KB, 600x338, chomusuke_plush_by_miranaei_db2q772-fullview.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Can someone help me create a pattern for pic related?
I never sewed a plush, so I am a little bit overwhelmed.
I didn't find any tutorial for this specific pose, and I don't know what to do

>> No.10350097

Welt pockets?

>> No.10350116

Probably have to commission someone to make the pattern, might as well commission someone to make it for you.

>> No.10350117

1) make the shape out of something like clay
2) cover with tape
3) draw seam lines
4) cut out the tape and lay the pieces flat
5) copy the pieces to paper, add seam allowances, cut out of fabric and sew

>> No.10350226

This is a great technique. You could even use crumpled newspaper covered in saran wrap and duct tape or something

>> No.10350428
File: 68 KB, 400x533, 6588075C-B95A-4F55-84AA-15321941E6E0.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Does anybody have a higher quality image for the baby heart apron patterns? I just need the approximate measurements to be readable.. I’ve found one other image from GLB vol 3 but the quality of that one is also poor.

>> No.10352378

There's a tutorial on how to make a plush of Gii from Blazblue that can get you in the right direction

>> No.10356109
File: 1.47 MB, 1500x2250, pt2020_03_12_23_36_54.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I bought fabric intending to make a metamorphose-inspired wa jsk but I'm stuck between going for more kimono elements like the faux obi, overlapping neckline etc vs traditionally lolita style dress in a kimono print and would like some opinions. I'm not dead set on copying a meta dress design exactly, but they're pretty much the only Japanese brand that makes decent wa lolita so I figured that it's a safe bet to be heavily inspired by them.

>> No.10356120

God that’s adorable I hope you can find it

>> No.10356170


If you want a more versatile dress, I'd go with a more normal-looking jsk, then make the faux obi as a detachable piece, either a belt of a button-on/pin-on bow

The thing about the faux obis is they are very flashy and memorable, kind of like the obi is the main thing people see, no matter what blouse you change out, so it's difficult to get more varied looks out of them. Even if you look up Meta coords, some anons have difficulty telling apart different Meta walolita releases, let alone the same dress worn in different coords.

So making the obi detachable will give you a plain dress that you can change up, and then you can put the obi on if you want to do that Meta walolita look.

>> No.10356448

Have you tried looking into making faux fur with yarn? A lot of cosplayers are using that method now a days

>> No.10356543
File: 197 KB, 1140x1620, etsy.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Hey, so if I wanna make a loose, layered, kinda weathered looking black robe for a costume, should I go to Etsy and destroy my wallet, learn to sew since maybe a robe wouldn't be super hard, or just use my 3d printer to make a set of armor/jewelry/brooch pieces to hold a bunch of black cloth together in a robe shape around me?

>> No.10356575

Maybe a mix of both - buy/get someone to make a basic robe and then embellish it yourself? Not sure

>> No.10356614

This is probably better suited for the cosplay questions thread

>> No.10356720

Aliexpress and taobao are great for trims.

laces.taobao.com has lace for as little as $1/m and they have cutesy designed like donuts, stars, and musical notes.

>> No.10356729

Thanks, senpai!

>> No.10356783

I'm quarantined and I'm going bonkers. What if I wanted to try my hand at sowing? Is there a 101 Baby's First Skirt or something at Joanns? I once heard the old school pattern booklets are really shitty? Should I just watch Youtube vids?

>> No.10356788

it's "sewing","sowing" is what you do with seeds in the ground. There should be a lot of lolita skirt tutorials that are really simple, just a square or trapezoid sewn to a waistband.

>> No.10356953

Yeah Joanns offers classes. Also ask around at local, smaller quilting shops if you have them in your neighborhood.
I did something similar, i went to a thrift store, found a good fitting blouse and chopped it at the seams. It' s now a good base for me to build any shirts of of. Glad to see i'm not the only one who did this.

>> No.10356989

There's plenty of easy projects on youtube and pinterest, but you should try to acquire fabric to work with. Even if it's just old tattered bed sheets or old clothes, it can work for a sample.

>> No.10357408


Thanks folks. I went to Joannas asked the girl about 101 materials (ooo neat, pins and scissors. Who would have thought). And got a SUPER simple sack like dress pattern.

My only thought was, how can I 'lolita' it. Like making a big bow type thing for the collar? But I'm getting ahead of myself. Need to see I can open the scissors from the package without poking my eye out first. Wish me luck.

>> No.10357422
File: 1.07 MB, 2250x3000, ThisOne.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Dropped pic.

>> No.10357428

I wouldn’t bother trying to “lolify” that pattern because the silhouette is completely wrong for lolita. If this is your first project it’s better to just follow the instructions to the letter and make yourself a cute but casual, non-lolita dress.

>> No.10357441
File: 76 KB, 1200x655, 1542203115724.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>just find a class with other people in it, anon!


>> No.10357449


I think what they meant was adding something fancy to it so it's not just a sack dress. I hope they're not saying they want to try and make that pattern into a A-bell shape or something cause that's not how sewing works.

>> No.10357477

It's not going to be lolita but you can add heart shaped pockets, maybe with a bow on them, I think it would be cute

>> No.10357629


I like where your heads at, anon. But how hard are pockets for a -0 level newbie? let alone shaped ones?

>> No.10357707

nayrt but some non-fraying fabric like felt could be hand-sewn on like applique

>> No.10357734

Different anon, but simple pockets are pretty simple. Just press the seams down with an iron and sew on top of the dress with 3-4 straight lines. They're even included with your pattern. However, heart pockets would require you to clip curves and sew in curved lines which isn't hard, but it's like beginner step 2. You're still at brand new beginner.

To answer your question though, >>10357408, the best you can do is pick a cute fabric to work with and maybe some trims or cute buttons if you're feeling capable. They're pretty simple to apply. If you don't mind the inside of the dress looking ugly, you could do it the messy way and just sew them to the inside of the dress. Or if you want to do it the right way, you will be sandwiching them between the two layers of fabric for your dress, making sure to place it upside down so that when you turn it right-sides out, it will be peeking out. This will all make sense when you start working, but feel free to come back to ask questions. The only trim you can make at home without having to make another trip to Joann's is a ruffle trim which is just a looooong gathered strip of fabric. Easy to make. I hope you can make something to your liking and best of luck!

>> No.10358039

Sew the dress first. Then think about modifications to make it cuter. Patch pockets and bows can be sewn later

>> No.10358209


nayrt. Even if they did mean this, I still wouldn't. The anon asking this sounds like a complete beginner in sewing and a total non-lolita. Trying to add embellishments sounds like a recipe for disaster.

Design-wise, newbies often tend to pick up the closest things that ""remind"" them of lolita, especially with anon shopping at Joanns. So they end up with brightly coloured kiddy stuff and look like age play. Construction-wise, they're likely to mess up a bunch of things, so that limits what they can add. It's not like you can't succeed with it, but it has such a high rate of failure.

I think the best thing anon can do with it is to make it in a fabric that complements their existing wardrobe, or make it in a cute print if they really want something "kawaii". No embellishments/lolifying. Then they can wear it immediately and get instant satisfaction out of it. Things like patch pockets and other stuff can wait for their second dress, after they've had a little more success under their belt.

>> No.10358225

Although this may feel harsh to OP's creativity, I don't think you're wrong. As a beginner, it's easy to get fatigued with long projects. I fell into that trap and ended up hating what I made after a year of work. Nothing you make at the beginning is good anyway. I think that keeping it simple with a cute fabric is a great way to start. Then on the next project, or even the same dress but a different pattern view, they can start to practice adding things. Doesn't have to be lolita per se, but just whatever trims suits the garment.

>> No.10358282


Yes, thank you! I totally don't mean to be harsh towards OP, I'm reading comments on ruffles and patch pockets. It's a minimalist dress with a narrow silhoutte so ruffles can easily look wrong on it, and my first two patch pockets I ever made I messed up because I decided to an hero and embellish them with techniques I've never tried before. So I'm trying to tell OP not to repeat that kind of mistake where you put too much into a beginner project and make it hard for yourself to complete it successfully.

There's no real need to rush headlong into difficult projects, just do this the easy way and you can still be proud of a decent dress. Then tackle something more difficult on your second project, keep that up and pretty soon you'll be sewing more difficult things.

>> No.10358892

What's your quarantine project?
I'm using a Mimi G pants pattern I bought to make some plaid pants. My boyfriend bought me a pair from F21's Mickey collection back in the day, but it has zero stretch. They fit, but I can't move in them at all. So I'm making my own.

>> No.10358973

Gonna make some fairy kei scarves. i picked up some yarn and crochet/knitting books on my last outing before i go full shut in

>> No.10359054

I have this weird and sort of stiff/crunchy fabric I'm going to try to save by making an apron out of it! and also scrunchies out of old project scraps

>> No.10359063

Cute!! I was considering embroidering some Animal Crossing characters since my grandmother gave me a shit ton of floss, but I wanted to put it on a t-shirt, not scrap fabric so I could actually wear it so perhaps for another day.

>> No.10359065

Oh how adorable! I wish I used aprons more. I love the look of them, but I just never remember to wear them when cooking. And same. Making scrunchies is my favorite scrap fabric project.

>> No.10359106

Finishing all the projects I started....

>> No.10359124


>> No.10359148

I’d like to do some serious destashing but all of those projects require something more - notions, lining, fabric for mockups - that I don’t know where to begin. My government has discouraged people from frivolous online shopping because apparently delivery workers are getting sick and possibly spreading the virus.

I could simply take each project as far as I can go and then start a new one once I get stuck, but I’m bad enough at finishing things as it is so that seems like the worst possible idea.

>> No.10359153

Ooh animal crossing characters are a cute idea. I grabbed a few amigurumi crochet books from the public library before they shut down today, so i may try making some little friends. Or needlefelting some patches of the characters.

>> No.10359363

Hm, that's tough. I think if you make a list of everything you need and get them all in one go online, it would reduce the amount of packages that would need to be delivered. Or if you're not comfortable with that, choose one project that you can go the furthest with and take that as far as it goes. Honestly, it takes me forever to organize my materials, list tasks, and draw out plans so if it were me, I'd probably just be finishing the planning phase when the quarantine is lifted.

>> No.10359369

I've never heard of that before, but I looked it up and they're so cuuuute! There was a little turtle pattern on the packaging of some polyfil I bought recently and now you're making me think of making a lil froggy friend.

I've always wanted to needlefelt but I feel like I'd just make a ball of lint lol. Patches sound so cool!

>> No.10359395

I know this is vague but Google isn't giving me anything helpful. What would cause the bobbin in my machine to bounce around and get thread wrapped around it and the case as I'm sewing? It's a drop-in bobbin if that makes a difference.

>> No.10359408

>What would cause the bobbin in my machine to bounce around
Are you sure you're putting it in all of the way? The only thing I can think of is that it's not fully engaged.

> and get thread wrapped around it and the case as I'm sewing?
That could be a thread tension issue with either the bobbin or top thread. Rethread both and make sure the tension is at an even 2.5 for most sewing. For the bobbin, tighten or loosen the screw on the case.

>> No.10359410

Is the bobbin the right way around? Is it wound properly? Could your machine need cleaning? In my experience, bobbin problems are usually caused by something really minor even if they have a huge impact on your sewing.

>> No.10359433
File: 9 KB, 329x275, faqh463_fig1101.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I've had a consistent issue where the top thread has come off the proper path to the needle without me noticing and it makes my bobbin thread fuck up (see picture for what I mean about the path since I'm describing this poorly). If everything is properly threaded, I'd second checking your tension.

>> No.10359435

Did you get that problem fixed?

>> No.10359445
File: 17 KB, 400x400, 0003743188353_A.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I haven't really tried so far, I was assuming it was just a design issue based on the number of people I've found online with the same problem. As it is I've trained myself just to double-check the threading before starting a seam.

>> No.10359580

Could be. There's an industrial machine I used to use at school and the tread disk (step #3 after of threading, before going down into the N shaped portion) was super hard to get the thread to hang onto. Despite being an open cavern, you really had to floss it in there. I wonder if that's the same problem you're having with a wonky disk. Either way, I hope the solution comes to you.

>> No.10359626

I have four yards of black velvet and I can't decide what to do with it. I'm stuck between making a frumpy, black and white old school inspired piece or going more classic gothic. i have plenty of white cluny lace on hand, as well as nice black venise lace, so there's nothing really holding me back from either option, just.... ugh. agonizing over projects is the worst part of sewing.

>> No.10359645
File: 184 KB, 351x405, unknown.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

half of felting is making balls of lint, if im being honest. Buy a cheap amazon needle kit/felting foam block/good handle that can hold a few needles at once and a big bag of mixed roving colours and give it a shot. i spent maybe 30 bucks total for all my beginner stuff. Its relaxing, and there are so many tutorials online for techniques.
This rowlett was one of my first projects, and he turned out pretty well.

>> No.10359663

looks cute i freakin love rowlett! you just need to be trimming a little more stray felt and doing denser balls to get it looking really tight.

>> No.10359679

Classic OP. Pintucks, black on black, velvet ruffles and a bustle back?

>> No.10359852

Thanks for the tip. Rowlett is so cute!!!

>> No.10359879

I had this dilemma once but then I discovered that my red fabric bled like crazy and kept bleeding no matter how much cold water and color catcher sheets I threw at it. I saved the white cotton lace for another project and went with pintucks and ruffles instead. That wasn’t velvet, though.

>> No.10360093 [DELETED] 
File: 32 KB, 512x384, patterns.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I'm making a jinbei and can't decide whether to make it like the top or bottom. Top has seams in the front, is easier to cut, and uses less fabric. Bottom has a seam in the back and is easier to sew. Is there anything else?

>> No.10360094
File: 86 KB, 1024x768, pattern.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I'm making a jinbei and can't decide whether to make it like the top or bottom. Top has seams in the front, is easier to cut, and uses less fabric. Bottom has a seam in the back and is easier to sew. Is there anything else?

>> No.10360151

I would do a seam in the back. Is your fabric solid or patterned?

>> No.10360156
File: 304 KB, 1200x900, fabric.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.10360162

Pretty, and shouldn't be too hard to pattern match if you decide on front seams

>> No.10360472

Seam in the back.

>> No.10360707
File: 1.59 MB, 3596x2183, screenshot-2020-03-2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Does anyone happen to have a pattern for Rey's henley shirt lying around that they could scan and post, like the one sold as part of this pack? Or alternatively, does anyone have a pattern for a form-fitted non-button-down henley shirt, preferably with cap sleeves, they could share?

>> No.10361288

back darts on trousers have made a peak of fabric over each buttcheek. curving the dart didn't fix it. i think it has to do with the size of the dart maybe but not sure which dimension needs adjusted nor in which direction. wat do?

>> No.10361310

When in doubt, rip the stitches and redo it.

>> No.10361627


If it's loose pants you may be better off undoing the darts entirely and doing a couple of pleats right at the waist band. No darts, no peaks.

You can look up pressing bust darts and see if that helps, if you haven't done that already.

>> No.10361802

I just bought a bunch of voile because I was curious about it. Does anybody have any petticoat tutorials that are nice that they have used before and recommend? I’m trying to go for medium to large poof.

>> No.10364217

have you got any tips about sewing cuddly toys for a beginner? (or can refer me to guides/recommend books?)
I have sewn small bags and pouches, pencil holders and other beginner stuff, but now I don't know where to continue.
Somewhat like >>10359645
but obviously reasonably sized. Rowlet is a nice pokemon and the simple shape shouldn't pose to many difficulties or am I mistaken?

Just general information on what to do now that I have sewn the very basic stuff. How do I precede now?

>> No.10364231

What do the dials on that mannequin do? Do they make the padded parts expand so you can fit different sizes on it?

>> No.10364237


>> No.10364921

Anyone know where to find some lolita patterns online? Be it scans of books or stuff people have posted? I have a few lolita pattern books but I've already made everything I want from them.

Alternative for me would be a good book on pattern making.

Thanks very much in advance!

>> No.10364948

Oh and if you know of any good brands of patterns that I can buy that totally works too! I just don't know where to get them aside from GLB and otome.

>> No.10364978
File: 3.93 MB, 1600x3324, plush sewing examples.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I wouldn't recommend Rowlet to start with--spheres can be a difficult shape to make in stuffed toys without having issues like puckering along the seams. It's been over 10 years since I searched for stuffed animal patterns, and there's a lot more free stuff/indie Etsy patterns compared to the small number of McCalls patterns back then, so I can't recommend any specific patterns, but I do have some general tips:
Since you have some basic sewing under your belt, you should know a little about assembling patterns and clipping curves and those basics. For stuffed toys I'd still start with a very basic flat-pillow type of pattern that consists of 2-3 pieces. After getting that style down you can move to more three-dimensional patterns using more pieces and more complex shapes. After that, you can try the even more complex patterns that may require techniques like darts (for a curved face for example), armatures/joints for poseability, decorative stitching, or addition of hair. See my image for examples of what I mean, all of these were found by searching "simple stuffed toy patterns".
For embellishment such as faces it could be good to also practice some simple embroidery in order to make mouths, noses, etc. It can also be good to practice some different basic hand stitches; even if you're using a sewing machine, you may want hand stitches for a decorative effect (as in the alpaca phone charms) or in order to invisibly finish off your seam after you've flipped the plush rightside out and stuffed it.

>> No.10365020

to piggyback off this post - I also wanted to give sewing a go & just try out some easy projects. I'm in a position right now where I can buy a decentish sewing maching quite cheaply. Should I do that or should I start with handsewing first?

>> No.10365031

Maybe creating a block/sloper and then just sewing that as a garment? Recently I've been tampering with freesewing.org, I have input my measurements but haven't actually got around to actually sewing something using the block it made for me, so I can't fully vouch for this. The sleeves the bodice block has are long, though, but should be easy enough to find a drafting tutorial for cap sleeves and using the long ones as a base

>> No.10365038

Start with a sewing machine, handsewing is a different skill and mostly used for details/finishing unless you want to go super historically accurate. Basic machine sewing is super easy and will let you focus on assembly and fitting right away rather than spending hours on getting straight, even stitches by hand.
Good starter projects would be first some pillowcases, then basic pajamas, then maybe a gathered rectangle skirt.

>> No.10365097

sup, I dont know any in particular but keep an eye on the cgl catalog, there's often a pattern thread including lolita stuff, with magazine and book pdfs. not sure if our last one has been deleted yet or not tho

>> No.10365132

What >>10365038 said, but what newbies don't know is that machine sewing doesn't replace hand sewing. They go hand in hand more often that you know. So start with the new skill of machine sewing and you'll be working on your hand sewing along the way.

>> No.10365134

adding to this, learning to do buttons with machine and hand sewing is an invaluable skill!

>> No.10365296

How do I sew a face mask if I have zero experience

>> No.10365346

Tons of youtube videos. You can handsew it easly since it's pretty small, just make sure that your stitches are relatively uniform and small enough to hold tightly without becoming micro-stitches.

>> No.10365367

Thank you

>> No.10365369

What are some good non-Chinese sources for satin and grosgrain ribbon?

>> No.10371394

What kind of fabric can you use to line a skirt? I'd prefer something with a more matte texture but I worry that if I don't use something like satin that it will stick to the outer fabric.

>> No.10371508


>> No.10371521

the non-chinese sources are just reselling chinese ribbon.

>> No.10371865


There's Shindo, a Japanese company that makes ribbons.


It's the manufacturer though, you'll have to find the shops that sell Shindo ribbons in your country (if you want to buy it from Japan you can put the ribbon product numbers into Rakuten and it'll quickly pop up exactly which shops are carrying them).

>> No.10375914

My old sewing machine finally bit the dust, reccs for a new one? I was using a singer prelude from like 13 years ago.
I want something that can handle cosplay and regular garment sewing, isnt an arm and a leg, but isnt a total POS. I trust you guys more than most random online reviews

>> No.10375970

My concern right now is ship times and all my packages out of China right now are really behind.

I'll see if I can find any shops that stock that brand that are located closer to me. I'm not too hopeful about Japan's shipping right now either. Thanks for the recommendation

>> No.10376485
File: 7 KB, 429x160, 8B2EDD7C-8EC0-4038-9B74-D579BB3E3A05.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I’m trying to alter a blouse pattern to fit and from experience I know I’ll probably need to widen the shoulders a little bit, but I’m not sure where the shoulder seam is actually supposed to sit on the body. All I can find are guides for men like pic related. Does this apply to women’s blouses too? I’m a little worried that men’s shoulder seams might be put further out to accentuate wide shoulders when that’s the opposite of what I want to do. The drawings on the pattern I’m using actually look more like the left picture. Is that sloppiness on the part of the artist or is there really a difference here?

>> No.10376489

Women's blouses tend to be more like the left picture, correct, especially if the sleeves have volume at the top, otherwise they may make your shoulders look a lot wider. I recommend doing a mockup to test the fit, then making changes based on that.
I'm super happy with my Brother Innov'is 955, it was a bit pricy because of the embroidery function but if you get the sewing-only version it should be $4-500

>> No.10376490

I'm looking at the Singer Heavy Duty 4411. its solid, in my price range, and it's on sale right now.

>> No.10376498

I'm not familiar but I have friends who really like the Singer heavy duty machines so it seems like a sound choice

>> No.10376595

Would you say that the puffier the sleeves, the further in the shoulder seam can or should be? I was hoping to make a basic blouse pattern to build off of for future projects but only really expected to be varying the sleeves and neckline.

>> No.10376702

The seam can be a bit further in than the point of the shoulder but I wouldn't go beyond an inch, if you're making a base pattern I'd recommend keeping it in the same place every time.

>> No.10376848

Anons with sergers, I'm currently looking to get one. My budget is $500 US. Any particular recommendations? I was looking at Janome 8002D for now since I already have a mid-range Janome sewing machine and I have found it really reliable and just all around great over the years.

I guess mostly I'm really excited about easy seam finishing and being able to sew knits without fucking with the tension on my regular machine, but is there anything else that's specific that I should look for in a serger? I'm hoping to get a ruffle foot as well for making ruffles.

>> No.10377045
File: 129 KB, 1280x720, download.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I'm looking to make a plushie of a kodama from Nioh (pic related). I know how to make the body, but I can't figure out how to make the bowl for its head. I could cover an actual plastic bowl with fabric, but then it wouldn't be very huggable. Is there any other way to do this?

>> No.10377088

Make a duct tape pattern over the plastic bowl, transfer to EVA foam and cover that in fabric?

>> No.10377504

>stand up
>roman salute
>look down at your right shoulder
>place a finger on the divot
>lower your arm
that's where your shoulder seam should hit

>> No.10377521

differential feed is the main must-have. automatic threading is great if you're buying used but new models with it are crazy expensive

>> No.10377531

you could use felt and employ millinery techniques. if you want it to be fabric you could use layers of fusible interfacing and/or thin horsehair braid

>> No.10377538

Try using a baseball cap pattern and strong interfacing

>> No.10381837
File: 159 KB, 1280x960, C00167__90413.1517473646.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Can someone help me find a pattern for this dress, please?
That would be my first sewed cosplay, I know how to use the machine but I can't make patterns
I found some but the skirt was not wide enough
Is there a site in which do you search for patterns or do you just use google randomly?
I'm a newbie, please don't hate

>> No.10381848

That’s a circle skirt. Look up how to make a circle skirt. You’ll need a petticoat to make it look like that.
Just find a dress pattern that matches the bodice and follow the pattern’s instructions for attaching the skirt (or look up how to attach a skirt to a dress bodice if the pattern doesn’t have one).

>> No.10381919

Thanks anon! I'm mostly likely buying new. My sewing machine has automatic threading and I love it, but I think I might have to settle for threading the serger myself with that budget, haha. The differential feed is definitely a priority, I'm excited to sew more knits and not have to fuck with the tension on my sewing machine. I also gave up on finding one with a free arm within the price range. Realistically, I can probs handle the sleeves as is, or do them on my regular machine.

Currently deciding between JUKI MO644D and Janome 7933. I looked at the Brother 1034D as well, although I think I trust the other two brands just a tad more.

>> No.10381989

Are you looking for mid-range or entry level?The brother 1034D is like...your very entry level serger and really doesn't have that many things going on with it including a smaller range of stitch width and length compared to some other models. I've also heard it can be quite chattery/plasticky sounding. I have the 3034D which is the model up and it's fine for what I use it for (casual garment sewing) but definitely not as heavy-duty as others I have seen. One other consideration is the needles - the brother takes regular universal sewing machine needles, if you're going to be using your machine regularly and therefore needing new needles frequently it's nice to know that you can just use the same ones for everything. I think some Janome sergers have specialised ones

>> No.10382018

>Is there a site in which do you search for patterns or do you just use google randomly?
Unfortunately you either have to buy a commercial (Simplicity, McCall's, Burda) pattern, an indie pattern (Etsy or personal websites), or draft your own. MoodFabrics has some great free patterns on their website, but it won't give you everything you need. Wait until Joann's has a $2 pattern sale and strike.

I second what >>10381848 said. The picture on the left has both a petticoat and a horsehair braid to make it that poofy, it's not just the fabric working like that on its own. However, the left picture doesn't seem to follow the reference picture on the right. The picture on the right doesn't look poofy at all, it's just the wind. If you want to be true to the source, find a jumper dress or pinafore pattern so that there's no waist seam. And some bloomers for her bottoms. It shouldn't be too hard for a beginner.

>> No.10382077

Like...yes and no. You can bring the shoulder seam in if you want there to be more 'upwards' sleeve volume on the shoulder, but that would be a conscious design choice rather than making up for poor fit. The problem is that you don't want to be using the additional volume in puffy sleeves to make up for the pattern being too small across the back/shoulders, as then the look of the puffy sleeves will change to being more 'filled' by the arm/shoulder.

>> No.10382081

If I could go for a mid range with that budget, then I would like to, might as well make sure the machine lasts. I've never used a serger before, but I've wanted one for a long time to help me speed things up a bit (finishing seams), and make some other things a bit easier. It's more or less for casual garment sewing, yes, but if I can avoid frequent repairs or troubleshooting then all the better.

>One other consideration is the needles - the brother takes regular universal sewing machine needles, if you're going to be using your machine regularly and therefore needing new needles frequently it's nice to know that you can just use the same ones for everything
That's a good point, thank you! The particular Janome model I was looking at uses regular sewing needles.

>> No.10382266

If you are willing to continue to watch and wait, you may find a deal with a better machine discounted to your price range rather than buying something full-price at the top of your budget. I would look around the $600-700 mark for machines and see whether you can find a slightly older model that is discounted.

>> No.10382278

What project would be the best for a total newbie in sewing? I have time in quarantine so I want to learn. I’d want to do something that would teach me some basic construction, pattern modification and how to do seams properly. I think starting with OnS is not a good choice, but if there is some easy pattern from that it would be great.

>> No.10382299

This was my literal first ever project teaching myself to sew as an adult (I didn't even do the 'pillowcase at school' thing, and had been taught that the presser foot makes it go and nothing else from a failed attempt by my mother to teach me in childhood)

I would suggest looking at basic 'how-to' sewing and patterning books as well (these are generally better than blogs and youtube given the number of people who take shortcuts, but if you must burdastyle's videos are ok) some of which can be found in this dropbox https://www.dropbox.com/sh/d3z1814muvtxoyh/AADFuIAoYs9RYEkmaCEVNajDa?dl=0

>> No.10382463

bows, skirts (specifically circle skirts), sleeveless and non-bodycon dresses, shorts, bloomers, drawstring bag, etc. Check you youtube!

>> No.10382471

while a circle skirt is easy to draft, it's a pain in the ass for a newbie to hem properly. I would recommend a basic rectangle skirt instead. Everything else on the list is an excellent starting project.

>> No.10382740

Good point, hemming circles is the bane of my existence.

>> No.10383535

Can anyone recommend a good block/sloper tutorial? The one I'm using now left me with a completely ridiculous bust dart and shoulder slope even though my measurements are barely off from the ones from their own example. I'm open to paying for something like a book as long as it gives me something that works and won't lead me to waste another week.

>> No.10383539

The 1034D has a free arm for doing sleeve cuffs. I use it all the time. Feel free to ask me any questions about it. I like mine a lot, especially for the price. There's a really solid troubleshooting group on facebook specifically for the 1034D/1034DX. My main sewing machine is a super reliable Viking, so I was ready to be somewhat disappointed with the 1034D, and honestly haven't been.

>> No.10384380

What is a good tutorial for changing the neckline of an OP? I have a dress that has a really high collar that doesn't suit me, and I'd rather have something of a square neck. Or possibly turn it into a JSK, I guess. as is it looks like shit because of the neck and I'm 100% confident in my altering skills, so I'm not worried about cutting into it or anything. It's all cotton, no lace or anything to snip through (though I will be adding some decoration to it when I am altering it). any help or ideas would be sweet!

>> No.10384385
File: 156 KB, 1404x791, mako ma.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

It's not for this character, but does anyone have a tutorial on how to make a floating cape like this? I can't find one online anywhere. I have some chicken wire and was thinking of sandwiching it between thicker, non-fusible interfacing, and sewing that in between my lining and face fabric. But I have a multitude of questions even then.

>> No.10384388

I'm no fabric expert, but I know that the weight of the fabric makes an impact on the way a cape hangs and the type of interfacing that you will be using. I wish I could help you on which one to choose but I struggle with fabric choices myself, I just happen to know that they're important. To make it float, your suggestion of chicken wire sandwiched between the fashion and lining fabric is sound. You'll probably want to make a lightweight but sturdy chest/shoulder harness. Probably a plastic plate with backpack straps?

>> No.10384659

if you've a dress or top which fits you well and features the sort of neckline you're after for this project, use that as a sort of template. you'll do the front and back separately. back will be easier, so start with that.

fold both garments in half vertically. lay the template piece atop the project piece, making sure to align center backs (i.e. the vertical fold lines), shoulder seams, and armhole seams as best you can. grab your chalk and trace along the template neckline onto the project fabric. if needs be, put some heavy objects down along the entire length of both sides of where you'll be marking your chalk line to keep the garments from shifting. now go back to the top of this paragraph and repeat the same for the front. the back part of the template garment will likely be in the way once you've gotten everything aligned. get some pins. "trace" the front neckline with pins, inserting them so the point is aimed toward the hem/side seams/armholes of the garments, and pushing them all the way through the garments so only the head is visible. at this point you should be looking at a dotted line of pinheads along where you want your chalk line to be. fold the top bit of template garment down over the pinheads and out of the way. trace front neckline with the chalk.

if you've not got a suitable template garment, turn the project garment inside out, do the folding it vertically in half bit, freehand draw in new back and front necklines with the chalk, then try the garment on (still inside out) and have a look in the mirror at exactly where the lines are actually falling. adjust as needed until satisfied with their placement.

do not cut right on the chalk lines. measure & cut a ways out from them so you have enough extra material to fold over or to be the seam allowance for the facing or lining or whatever for finishing the new neckline neatly.

>> No.10384662

swap out chicken wire for a broadly spaced mesh of rigilene (sew-through plastic boning) or strips of horsehair braid (widest you can find and make sure it's the stiff variety, not the soft) and that'd actually probably work just fine. do the hem with horsehair either way. hell, depending on the weight of the fabric you'll be using, that right there may be enough all on its own.

>But I have a multitude of questions even then

>> No.10384669

>From the title and the fact that it is a graphic novel alone, I can see this book drawing in girls with some geeky or artistic interests picking it out. Furthermore, fans of series set in the past and focusing on a group of kids like Stranger Things would probably see the similar themes based off of the image on the cover. The themes of coming to terms with growing up could be relatable to an 8th grade or high school audience as they are both in the thick of age-milestones.
Not OP, but wouldn't that cost quite a bit of schmoney for such a large coat? I'd imagine she'd still need interfacing with the boning too.

>> No.10384758

Haha, oops I pasted a fucking line from my homework. Sorry mate, I didn't even check.

>> No.10385039
File: 1.82 MB, 2000x1064, alaineref.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I was planning on making a dress for pic related but I don't have tons of experience and I was wondering if anyone had suggestions as how I should go about doing the hems? I'm nervous I'll choose something that won't work with the curvature of the neckline/skirt.

>> No.10385041

well the neckline seems square but the roundness lets you get away with some kind of contrasting bias tape. The texture seems kind of satin? It's bias so it'll have some room for stretch and won't be difficult to work the shape to it. The sleeves seem even more easy, is there anything specially that you need help with?

>> No.10385045

Thank you so much, that's really helpful. No, I think I'm good now. To be honest, I feel a bit stupid for having to ask when the solution seems so obvious but this is the first serious project I've done by myself and I just wanted the opinion of someone with real sewing experience because I'm super nervous about doing it right haha.

>> No.10385050

it's ok Anon even experienced seamstress have difficult or scary projects that make difficult to work around at planning. I would watch a few video tutorials on sewing bias on curves and do a ton of pinning beforehand. Even so don't be discouraged if it looks a bit wonky at first, ironing goes a long way.

>> No.10385057

That was great advice, anon. And to OP, I suggest watching a few videos about how to work with satin/slippery fabric. They can be difficult sometimes and it'll be better to know going into it what you'll need to do. Sounds like you're on the right track though, anon!

>> No.10385108

Thank you both so much (again). I'll definitely look at lots of tutorials and practice before try it on the real thing thing. I really appreciate the advice!

>> No.10385797

by broad mesh i mean the holes are big enough to put your fist through with room to spare

>> No.10385820

Anyone have any experience making petticoats? I need a new one, but with the way shipping is right now, I'm nervous about ordering one. Has anyone successfully made a decent one? Both A line and/or bell shaped.

>> No.10385835

It seems like an easy process, just tedious and takes a lot of materials. I'd suggest checking out some tutorials online and/or buying a pattern first

>> No.10385836

Ahhh gotcha.

>> No.10385985

A-line pettis are pretty straightforward, with each layer being slightly bigger than the last. But it is tedious, yes. There is a ton of gather and a ton of hemming. Most of the time, I wouldn't even be able to source the material for much cheaper it takes to buy one. I would only consider making a petticoat for myself if I needed very specific length and poof levels. You might be in a good place to make one rn though, if you have spare time with the quarantine and all.

I'll also mention that a ruffle foot and a serger will greatly decrease the amount of labour the whole thing takes.

>> No.10386177
File: 164 KB, 651x960, good boy 2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

here's an old school usakumya pattern from that one GLB for everyone stuck at home in quarantine. I'd love to see the results if anyone makes one!


>> No.10386187
File: 2.83 MB, 2000x1542, 235537.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

samefriend but here you go, hope this helps!

>> No.10386193


If you were to buy this magazine would they offer the full scale pattern or would you still have to draft/copy it yourself from measurements?

>> No.10386197

there's a full sized pattern that comes with the magazine, but not every listing will have it still included. I can try to scan that as well!

>> No.10386199


Do you know which volume of the magazine this is? I'd love to buy it. I finally made my first OP using an ONS pattern and I want to try GLB as well now that I've gotten the hang of following Japanese patterns.

>> No.10386200

it's volume 3! there are some really nice patterns in it and it's overall a gorgeous issue, I hope you can get your hands on it.

>> No.10386202

The Gothic & Lolita Bibles all come with patterns but this particular apron you'd just draft from the instructions iirc. All the patterns overlap on the sheet and you have to trace them anyway, plus some issues can be hard to find or expensive so if you're just trying to save some time it isn't worth it for that.

>> No.10386203


It isn't about saving time. I just prefer tracing physical patterns to printing and tiling digital images and it would be nice to own the book.

>> No.10386332

Are the English and Japanese GLB issues the same? I heard the translations aren't direct. I can read Japanese a bit so I won't mind the language barrier. I just wonder if the discrepancy means the English versions won't have the same patterns.

Should I just go for the Japanese one?

>> No.10386338

>can read Japanese a bit
are you pattern anon? i doubt you'll be able to understand japanese sewing instructions based on just "a bit". when people talk about the translations they mostly mean the blurb parts of it.

>> No.10386359


So the sewing stuff included is identical? Like instructions and patterns? I was worried it'd be missing those parts.

I studied Japanese for 3 years and loved there a while. I have lost a bit of skill but with Google for some sewing related kanji I may not know off the top of my head it should be no problem understanding the japanese.

>> No.10386725
File: 588 KB, 1440x1920, 0001860_compression-bodysuit.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I'm very new to sewing, so forgive me if this is a stupid question. Is there a way I can get a pattern for some shapewear/binder/girdle, or even just a combination of t-shirt and shorts I can sew together? (something like the pic, but preferably with short sleeves)

I know a lot of the measurements I'm looking for, but no idea how to go about getting a pattern.

>> No.10386746

can someone familiar with burda patterns tell me whether seam allowance is included, and if so what their usual size for it is? i've not used their patterns before but have one printed out now that i found online. it's one of the ones from their style magazine in case that's relevant

>> No.10386754

This is an extremely beginner unfriendly project. Shapewear and the materials you would need to make it use advanced techniques. It would be cheaper and easier for you to buy it.

>> No.10386766

Considering how shapewear material always seems to be very elastic and I'm looking to get very specific measurements I don't think I could buy what I'm looking for without paying far more than it's worth it to me.

>> No.10386767

Burda generally doesn’t include seam allowance unless otherwise indicated. I think only North American pattern companies include SA on their patterns? I have no idea why.

>> No.10386777

What leads you to believe that you won't be able to buy without paying more than it's worth? If you need THAT specific of measurements than shapewear isn't what you're after anyway. You would need something more akin to a corset.

>> No.10386782

>What leads you to believe that you won't be able to buy without paying more than it's worth?
Because I'm really, really cheap.

>You would need something more akin to a corset.
Ok, then it was just a poor choice of words. I'm looking to make a unitard corset.

>> No.10386790
File: 97 KB, 600x400, catch stitch.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

neato, thanks.
>I think only North American pattern companies include SA on their patterns? I have no idea why.
my guess is that mass production standards got locked in back in the WWII era and now we're stuck with a bunch of retarded shit as being the 'commonly accepted way of doing x'. shoulder slope is a glaring example.

you might give this a try
other anon is dead right about this being a very very non-beginner-friendly project, mind. the biggest thing obv is that the seams need to be strong af and they need to be able to stretch. if you've got a serger or can access one, use it. i don't think you'd have much luck on a regular sewing machine but no harm in trying anyway. thread is gonna be the key variable though. get ahold of some milsurp bonded nylon thread that you can't break with your hands. like if it'd cut into your skin before snapping apart itself, that's the stuff you're looking for. high af shear strength. lastly, if the machine stitch is a no-go and using a serger isn't an option, you could try doing it by hand. use a catch stitch (pic related) and the bonded nylon thread. if that goes well enough you could even throw some extra autism at it and do the whole thing up in flat felled seams. good luck

>> No.10386799

>Because I'm really, really cheap.
That's fair. I am too, but I'm trying to express to you that it is going to cost you more in the long run because you are going to fuck up and you are going to need more tools than you have because you're a beginner. If you're stubborn in your ways, then the most I can suggest to you would be buying a cheap premade compression top and shorts, then altering it to your desired shape so that you can take most of the sewing work out of the way. Then buy or make the corset. You can use heavy duty zip ties to replace the steel boning, but the longevity and strength of the corset won't be the same. The Aranea Black and Ralph-Pink websites have free corset patterns, but you can find them anywhere.

>> No.10386843

Thanks for the advice. I just had the idea of getting a boilersuit and tailoring it to the measurements I'm looking for. How does that sound?

>> No.10386882

If you want shapewear, then a boiler suit is made of the wrong material. What is your budget exactly?

>> No.10386889

Man, just buy a proper shapewear and avoid spending money, time and effort on something that you probably won't be able to make. If you think that you can make a skintight shapewear from something that is neither the right shape nor strong enough to hold it you might be a lost case.

>> No.10386892

if you want shapewear, buy shapewear. just buy crap from china if you want to be cheap. shapewear needs good sewing technique to actually be able to "shape" and not break.

>> No.10386916

skintight onepiece bicep-to-thigh garment made up in hard-wearing twill weave fabric sounds like it has loads of potential to be very highly lulzworthy. you'd not be able to move m8. and that's if you could even get the damn thing on all the way. it's given me another idea though.. could a wetsuit perhaps work for what you're trying to accomplish?

>> No.10386966

My mind is boggled trying to figure out what you are trying to accomplish here, but uh best of luck with the information we have provided you.

>> No.10386969

>a wetsuit
I'm glad you said that, I was holding myself back from suggesting a biker's onesie the whole time.

>> No.10387025

>If you want shapewear, then a boiler suit is made of the wrong material. What is your budget exactly?
For a corset it'd be fine.


I don't want to use elastic fabric, so neoprene is out of the question. I'm basically trying to make an undershirt I can't rip and will probably need to add a zipper to just to wear it.

>> No.10387032
File: 40 KB, 225x225, 1525323996478.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

My problem is that I haven't gotten any help with the one thing I'm having the most difficulty with and the only thing I asked for help with: getting a pattern in the measurements I'd like.

The closes has been >>10386790 posting a link to a bodystocking pattern, but can't find anything on how to edit it to the measurements I'd like. That lead me to the idea of taking a boilersuit, something I already have (if I can find it) and taking it in until it's the measurements I'd like.

>> No.10387059

do you want it to be as close fitting as the pic you posted? because accomplishing that in a woven fabric regardless of zipper closure or whatever else means you will not be able to move. have you come across the term "ease" yet? design ease is optional; wearing ease is not. go grab a bit of scrap fabric and wrap it tight around your leg, then try to bend your knee. see what i mean? so which is the priority for you -- non stretch fabric or a very close fitting garment? asking because that'll determine what sort of pattern to try and help you find. patterns are drafted with specific fabric properties in mind, and knit (i.e. stretchy shite) vs woven (non stretchy) is the most notable one across the board

>> No.10387072

why are so many of you trying to help this guy when he clearly won't be able to actually make this?

>> No.10387082

one more, have a look at freesewing.org

topkek what's crawled up your arse then?

>> No.10387142

The whole point was to steer him away from a fuckup, but at this point he deserves to waste his time and money.

>> No.10387144

ie. exactly what was said in the first fucking reply to this guy

>> No.10387158 [DELETED] 

You are a moron for 4hinking someone would send you a pattern which somehow has your exact measurements, which you didn't even specify. You WILL have to draw your own pattern or you will look bad, that's why every single person has been telling you. You WILL fuck up, cause you lack understanding of materials and structure, and also don't have any basic search skills and creativity. Anons sent you resources but you stil cry that you aren't directly spoonfed.
>Aranea Black and Ralph-Pink
Thank you anon for sharing these! I've been looking into corsetmaking and these two are great sources.

>> No.10387160

>>10387032 #
You are a moron for thinking someone would send you a pattern which somehow has your exact measurements, which you didn't even specify. You WILL have to draw your own pattern or you will look bad, that's why every single person has been telling you to just buy it. You WILL fuck up, cause you lack understanding of materials and structure, and also don't have any basic search skills and creativity. Anons sent you resources but you stil cry that you aren't directly spoonfed.
>>10386799 #
>Aranea Black and Ralph-Pink
Thank you anon for sharing these! I've been looking into corsetmaking and these two are great sources.

>> No.10387166

I'm glad those resources could help someone. I believe those websites also have accompanying video tutorials, but it's been a while since I've visited the site thoroughly.

>> No.10387238

I'm planning on making a bodysuit-type garment out of a 4 way stretch mesh with fairly large holes.
Is binding with fold over elastic my best bet for finishing the seams? I don't think normal seams are going to work that well due to the large hole size (not enough surface area to sew things together properly) and for the sake of neatness and longevity I don't want to leave raw edges. I'd also like to add a zipper as I want a high neck but the idea of adding a zipper to a 4 way stretch makes me queasy

>> No.10387255

Bias tape might be less bulky than foldover elastic but will still have give in the seam. If you do add a zipper, I would stabilise your insertion area with cotton tape so that the zipper area behaves more like a woven (which is what most stretch garments with zippers seem to do)

>> No.10387257

All I need to be able to do is sit, stand and walk. I don't need a lot of mobility.

>> No.10387258

That is a lot of mobility for a woven garment in the length you want.

>> No.10387259

>You are a moron for thinking someone would send you a pattern which somehow has your exact measurements, which you didn't even specify.
That's not what I'm asking

>You WILL have to draw your own pattern
How? I know nothing about doing this, which is why I asked.

>Anons sent you resources but you stil cry that you aren't directly spoonfed.
One link to a zentai suit is hardly resources.

>> No.10387260

I think you need to learn some very basic sewing stuff before you attempt this. I mean it doesn't even seem like you understand the difference in properties between a knit and woven fabric

>> No.10387267

You don't know what you want and even more how to achive it. I mean, a potato sack with three holes for head and arms is within your requirements. Making clothes isn't easy.
>How? I know nothing about doing this, which is why I asked.
If you want something that is skin tight you have to make it to your measurements. Even if you buy a commercial pattern you'll have to modify it my drawing a new pattern with your measurements.
>One link to a zentai suit is hardly resources.
You are an idiot who can't read apparently. Anons wrote paragraphs of what fabric you can use, what you can make, two sites full of patterns on corsetmaking, and you just skipped all of it and went to the first link. That's what "basic searching skills" and "creativity" mean. You don't have them. This whole thread is full of resources if you have just scrolled thru it. You want to be spoonfed but you have no idea what you are talking about and don't want to learn, so even if people are giving you specific instructions it just flies over your head

>> No.10387268

Honestly it's time to stop at this point. We don't know his budget, measurements, or whether he has access to a sewing machine or serger. This guy has enough keywords to use in a web search for what he wants.

>> No.10387294

Yes, I tried about 10 years ago when it was a lot harder to find cupcake pettis that were affordable to get shipped to me and I was getting sick of the rolled-up square dancing petticoat thing. The process sucked even though I used netting so I didn't have to hem it. I used something like 5m of fabric for what ended up being quite a low-poof petti and it took ages to do all the gathering.

>> No.10387295

Is there a reason you want to draft from scratch rather than using a commercial block that you could alter?

>> No.10387335

Because baby lock doesn't allow online sales of their machines and it can be difficult to find pricing information, if you've purchased a new serger from them:
>How much did you pay for it?
>Which model is it?
>Are you satisfied with it?
Because I'm starting to think it's time for me to get a serger...

>> No.10387387

Fuckin crossboarders

>> No.10387428

>>10387268 This and >>10387267.
More help than is necessary has been given and if OP wants to keep his head up his ass and waste his time and money then so be it.

>> No.10387442

going to give myself a laceless dress challenge for fun and because my lace pickings are a bit slim right now. wish me luck!

>> No.10387456

I’ve been altering commercial patterns for a long time but have never managed to get a truly perfect fit, because whenever I solve one fit issue another one appears. I’m hoping that if I draft from scratch to my own measurements I can skip a bunch of troubleshooting steps and end up with something that really fits properly rather than just being “good enough for now”.

For example I’m altering a commercial blouse pattern and while I got the back to fit me perfectly, the front has a lot of fabric bunching up under the bust dart. I can fix that by taking more fabric into the bust dart but then the side seams don’t match up. I’m not good at this and only have very tiny time windows to sew every day so the endless troubleshooting (especially without anyone to help me pin) is driving me crazy.

>> No.10387459

Does anyone know a good source for black velveteen? Am in the US.

>> No.10387516

lad try the freesewing.org link. that's the closest thing to what you're asking for that i'm gonna be able to recommend. my only other tips are to use ripstop nylon as your fabric, cut the whole thing on the bias, and start with the shorts/boxer pattern on that site. again, good luck to you

good luck to you as well lass!

>> No.10387517

Gambare, anon-chan!

>> No.10387536

If you haven't already, I recommend grabbing a friend/family member and making yourself a duct tape dress dummy. I made one of just my upper half and it's so much easier to draft patterns on the dummy than to struggle with pinning stuff on yourself. When you draft bodices on yourself the fabric gets warped due to you twisting your arms around so it's difficult to get an accurate fit.

>> No.10387542

You're going to want some give to that shirt just so you can breath, Your chest will need to be able to expand and contract, and if you go too tight with a fabric that doesn't stretch you could inhibit that. Keep in mind what activity you will be doing as well, you might be fine in your apartment when trying it on, but it will be too tight if you do any physical activity that makes you breath harder..

>> No.10387546

We’ve tried that several times but I always overheat and faint before they can finish! It sucks because a personalised dress form sounds so useful.

>> No.10387592

I believe their magazines don't but the commercial patterns they sell in an envelope do.

>> No.10387609

good to know. i've made two muslins of it so far and i've been half considering cutting another without adding any seam allowance to it. might go ahead and do that now. i quite like the pattern, it's a pretty dress with an interesting design and comes together beautifully simply for the most part. if this one is indicative of what all their patterns are like i may've found a new favorite company

>> No.10387695

Did you have a fan going? I was able to do mine in hot, humid July in an attic with a fan + AC turned up to max. You could probably do several sessions of partial dummies and splice them together; the duct tape molds to your body pretty well.

>> No.10387910

Any tutorials or tips for replacing stretched out elastic in a jsk? I just got a jsk that's horribly stretched out.

>> No.10387973


Is the elastic sewn to the fabric or in a channel between two layers of fabric?

>> No.10387978

it’s in channels but I’m kind of hesitant on where to start. also touching mah burando
i feel like if there was a video or something it would help me ease into it

>> No.10387981

Just open the ends of the channels and use a bodkin

>> No.10388402

What kind of fabric should I use for a gakuran? I'm currently focusing on a black polyester gabardine. Wondering if I can wing it with that instead of splurging for wool.

>> No.10388409

What places do you gulls prefer for sourcing nice quality fabric? Also, what do you find to be the best ways to identify quality in a material?

>> No.10388443

- local fabric shops
- actually seeing and feeling the fabric to figure out if it suits a project

>> No.10388469

Not in these days ....

>> No.10388493

Altering a block should be different from a pattern though - a pattern is so far off the original block that alterations are a stab in the dark. Since drafting a block requires so many steps, each with the possibility of introducing error that is compounded each step, and then tweaking (because you can't really just draft it and expect it to fit) a pre-existing block can be really helpful if you want to draft from them and should be easier to tweak to fit.

>> No.10388502


>possibility of intru

>> No.10388503

>possibility of introducing error each step
God this was so fucking annoying when I made a sloper for someone last year, I’m getting flashbacks

>> No.10388506
File: 423 KB, 812x1000, large-xl-giant-mannequin-1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Cosplay novice here. Is it worth getting a full body maniquin? I've made two outfits so far and I've struggled the most getting a flattering fit. I'd wear a garment then have my gf pin the material tighter, cutting the excess until it was my size. It seems wasteful and time consuming. I'm also new to sewing so it's been hard visualizing patterns before cutting them. I'm usually going back and forth draping it on myself and trying to redraw cut lines.

I'm thinking just a torso would be fine, but I can see the benefit of having hips or legs in there too. I have limited storage so that is a factor in considering how big the maniquin is.

Lastly, does it really matter what kind I get or would scavenging local trade groups be fine? Price is less of an issue, I don't need the best of the best, but I also don't want to get something that's hard to work with or will fall apart.

>> No.10388538

If you want a cheap one that is exactly your size you can make it using tape, look it up. But I think your problem isn't the lack of a mannequin, but that you seem to do your project in the right fabric on the first try. Even if you buy one, you'll still do the same process as without, only using a mannequin instead of your body. You should make a mockup using a cheap material, adjust the pattern and make a garment using that.

>> No.10388548

Adjusting the fit on your own body is a legitimate way to tailor clothing, that being said having a dress form is very helpful when you can't always have someone there to pin it on you. It's also a must have for any kind of draping. The best way to get a form with your own measurements is to buy one that's a bit smaller, usually it'll have one measurement that matches yours and the rest has to match or be smaller, attach some padding to get your exact measurements and slip a stretchy cover over it. Don't get an adjustable base, if your budget is tight you can get a styrofoam one for pretty cheap, if you have more to spend you can get something higher quality like a Stockman, but you have to be able to pin into it. If you plan on making pants you can invest in one that has a crotch, but they're generally more expensive, full legs are only available for display mannequins as far as I know. For the shoulder/arms, you'll probably want to make arms that you can pin onto your form when needed, there are free patterns online and you just need some canvas and batting to make them. Local trade groups are great, older forms tend to be built to last, but male forms are a lot less common than female ones.

>> No.10388678

That wildly depends on what sort of fabric you're talking about. I purchase silk from Dharma Trading and leather from Tandy Leather (they had a store I visited in person near me before the lockdowns but they have a good selection online too). I don't like synthetic fabrics.

>> No.10388681

You may also want to look into flat pattern drafting or even purchasing a premade block to modify as needed. Most resources are for women but there are plenty for men's patterns if you look.

>> No.10388700

This 100%. Patterns are generally not very accurate, and nearly all people go through multiple iterations before making one with "good" fabric. 99% of the time spent in getting a good piece out will be adding/removing slight bits of fabric to different areas for fit on your first or second iteration. Afterwards, you'll be warmed up and know exactly what to sew and where.

>> No.10388732

exactly my point. he clearly isn't experienced enough to make this and doesn't even want to do it properly.

>> No.10389007

Does anyone have a pattern handy for any tent dresses??

I have never sewn anything other than half assed dolls clothes, and am wanting to re-create a tent dress for the Sims 4 and am trying to draft the pattern from Holy Lantern. ..And by that I mean, draw a shitty idea of how I THINK the pattern goes and get mad when my simulation turns to shit.

>> No.10389093

Yes. This is pretty amusing watching a fat guy trying so hard to create his own version of shapewear you can already get cheap enough online

>> No.10389114

I think the funniest part is him thinking he can make shapewear from a woven

>> No.10389502

Any experience crocheting berets? I've seen patterns around, but they all look like beanies and don't seem stiff enough.

>> No.10393614
File: 184 KB, 1280x1280, 20190901_274238.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

If anyone has experience making plushies, does anyone know the type of fabric used for the skin of human plushies? I have a feeling it's short length fleece but I'm not certain.

>> No.10396174

Is there existing scans for Otome no sewing books 4, 8-13.

>> No.10396406
File: 159 KB, 900x601, b977c5f0f4123583fea0244ad7c663f0.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


There's one in otome no sewing volume 13.

>> No.10396409

I have a hand-crochet beret. You just need to wear it properly on your head, like any beret, and it won’t look like a beanie.

>> No.10396415

Minky fabric is commonly used. Fleece has a different feel and is much harder to find in flesh tones. Minky stretches more so often needs a backing fabric to keep it from going out of shape.

>> No.10396497

Where’s a good site or Etsy seller that I can buy fabric from at the moment? Joann’s isn’t looking too hot in terms of variety at the moment and I wanted to work on cosplays while stuck at home.

>> No.10396578

Thank you!

>> No.10396787


>> No.10396790

plush felt maybe

because reasons, iunno. whatcha working on?

>> No.10396988

Sewing pockets on BDUs, but the thread will just snap in the middle of doing a box stitch. I think it's just the sewing machine, so I can't do much.

>> No.10397357

could be to do with the difference in thickness maybe. does it still happen if you walk the machine through the point where it typically breaks by hand?

>> No.10397416

Rethread your machine, check your tension, and make sure you're using the right thread for the right project.

>> No.10397418

>Only own nans old industrial singer from the 40's
>sounds like a chainsaw
>Have spare silk fabric lying around
>Only sewn once before 15 years ago
Time to lose my hands lads!

>> No.10397593

ganabatte anon. have fun sewing your arms together

>> No.10398784

>men's shirt pattern
>1/4" seam allowance
>calls for fusible interfacing + overcast edges
>gonna use self fabric as a sew-in interfacing instead
>strongly considering sewing it like a regular seam so the finished edge looks cleaner
am i going to regret this decision?

>> No.10398994

Has anyone made their own mannequin using the bootstrap fashion templates? How hard was it to do? I'm at the point where a dress form is something I should be thinking about but I want it to have my measurements especially since I have kinda weird proportions
I'm seriously jealous that you have access to an industrial. Take care of it and it'll last you forever

>> No.10399095

Depends on your skill, how you want the finished product to look, and how frequently you'll use it.
You might regret making it out of wool if you are in a hot climate or your sewing skills are poor and you waste a lot of fabric. If cost isn't as big of an issue, I would use a wool-polyester blend for some warmth and the nicer look. Gabardine can be nice but a lot end up looking cheap and shiny and staticky as heck.

>> No.10400245

Vintage black singers, worth using or stick to modern machines?

>> No.10400295

Like the other anon said, it depend on your budget and how much time you wear it. I made a long gakuran coat with 100% wool which costed around 30 euro the meter, ironically since I choosed a whool for coat it was heat isolating so I was less hot wearing it open at con than just being in a tank top. It still hold up since 4 years of almost daily wear, The wool is ok but the lining have to be changed often. I'm a bit scared you will be hot if it's 100% polyester gabardine but a blend seem better ( unless your not experimented with tailoring). An anti static satin lining could be good if you choose polyester.

>> No.10401104
File: 9 KB, 128x128, 665CE635-FE26-4E95-A74B-9779A7A3D77D.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Can someone recommend a good, non-Chinese source of satin and grosgrain ribbons shipping from Europe? I used to get mine from laces.taobao but that’s not a great option at the moment and local stores all sell the same low quality plasticky stuff.

Nice fabric fortunately isn’t hard to find here but everyone gets their trims from the same crappy supplier so unless you want to slather your project in pic related you pretty much have to go out of country. It’s really annoying.

>> No.10401106

Just realised non-Chinese/shipping from Europe is pretty redundant. I don’t care if the ribbons are originally made in China, I’m just looking for something that won’t take two months to get here and isn’t crazy expensive to ship.

>> No.10401260

If you're looking for ribbons and not lace, this site carries a variety of mulberry silk ribbons.

>> No.10401909

holy shit kwik sew patterns are garbage since mccalls bought them out

>> No.10401975

What's my best bet for lining a HEAVY leather coat for wear in the summer? (It's for a cosplay and the way the world is right now I doubt I'll get to debut it before summer 2021)
It's going to be real leather and quite long, about knee length, so I expect it to weigh at least 8lbs when finished. The lining will be in direct contact with my skin so I wanted to avoid polyester. I do have the money to line it in silk however most silk is too lustrous for the sort of character I'm doing and I'm worried about the fragility of most silk weaves.

>> No.10402073

Silk is the least breathable natural fiber and won’t wick sweat well, some weave of cotton is probably your best bet.

>> No.10402696

Shit, put in bin

>> No.10402713

Rayon bemberg is what you want.

>> No.10402960

seconding this

>> No.10404255
File: 230 KB, 1405x2000, E3F9BB89-C9C8-48E9-9345-148501514FF9.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Does anyone know what tracksuit fabric is called? I'm trying to make one with fabric like pic related, but haven't seen it in person. I don't know what keywords to search for in online stores either though beyond going to the activewear section and that it's probably a nylon mix.

Also, by chance, if you guys happen to know any online shops with decent activewear fabric selections, I'd be super grateful for suggestions.

>> No.10404342

Where are you located? Craft stores around me are open. It might not be viable right now, but when I have this problem I go to a fabric place, feel out what im looking for and see what thats labeled as.

>> No.10404348

Jersey? Lycra? Spandex? It looks like a polyester blend. I know what you mean that there’s a very specific type of fabric they sometimes use. Maybe those keywords will help? I have been relying on Etsy lately for fabric, but stretchworld and spandex house come to mind for these type of fabrics.

>> No.10404399

Scuba knit is pretty similar

>> No.10405100

Do metal buttons engraved/embossed with a single initial exist? I've found services that'll engrave three initials as a custom order but I thought surely you should be able to buy pre-made single initial ones.

>> No.10405318


>> No.10405360

See, that's the thing. I've been, at least before quarantine, touching all through my local activewear/knit sections. Just no luck.

Thanks for the suggestions. Just been clicking around and narrowed it down to maybe tricot or ponte. Also, never thought to look at Etsy for fabric and found some good stuff. Thanks!

Isn't scuba really thick though? I don't want to sweat just sitting in it.

>> No.10405896

I'm specifically looking for "E", but thanks anyway

>> No.10406469

I need advice in the best way to sew a small heart-shaped window in elastic fabric. Any idea?
Would just lining the hole with non-elastic fabric suffice? Or would it need something stronger? Or larger than a simple border?

Name (leave empty)
Comment (leave empty)
Password [?]Password used for file deletion.